Honolulu
Honolulu sometimes gets a bad rap for being overcrowded, traffic bound, parking starved, and noisy. It is all of those things, but in an island kind of way, which is to say, it’s not nearly as busy as almost any other major U.S. city. Honolulu’s civic role is both that of state capital and seat of the City and County of Honolulu government, but, above all, this is a cosmopolitan center. Full of historic interest, the city is a great jumping off point for all kinds of tourism, from guided walks to inter-island cruises. Though downtown tends to go dark after 5pm, its daytime life is all you could ask for, while the port and Chinatown districts stay lively into the small hours.
1. Statue of Lili’uokalani
Weighted with lei (garlands) and symbolism, this exceptionally life-like bronze sculpture of Hawai’i’s last queen stands on the south grounds of the State Capitol. In her hand she holds a copy of her evocative composition Aloha ‘Oe, the 1893 Constitution, and the Kumu Lipo, Hawai’i’s creation story. Ho’okupu (gift offerings) are often left here by sovereignty activists who revere this queen, who was forced to give up the monarchy under protest.
2. Aloha Tower Marketplace
This well-designed shopping complex in Honolulu Harbor has not been a success for its shops but is great for restaurants, nightlife, and free noontime entertainment. The 10-story tower, built in 1926 and standing at 184 ft, was once the tallest building in the islands. Today, visitors can take an elevator to the top floor for stunning views over the harbor and mountains.
Pier 9, Honolulu Harbor • 528 5700 • 9am–9pm daily (to 6pm Sun) • www.alohatower.com
3. O’ahu Cemetery
The gravestones of this hillside resting place founded in 1844 read like a who’s who of Hawai’i history, from the humble to the high class. Nanette Napoleon, “the cemetery lady,” has written a guidebook and leads periodic tours – both are worth seeking out.2162 Nu’uanu Ave • 538 1538 • 7am–6pm daily • Free • www.oahucemetery.org
4. Royal Mausoleum
The mausoleum is overseen by Hawai’i’s only hereditary state office because the sacred duty to look after the graves is based on genealogy. It contains the bones of post contact Hawaiian royalty, except for Kamehameha Nui, who was interred in an unknown Hawai’i Island location in accordance with custom, and Liholiho, whose grave is at Kawaiaha’o. A koa-lined coral block chapel dating to 1865 forms the cemetery’s centerpiece, surrounded by the graves and vaults of the various family groups.2261 Nu’uanu Ave • 536 7602 • Mon–Fri • Free
5. Nu’uanu Pali Lookout
Famous as much for its hair-flying winds as for its blood-soaked history, this vantage point is where Kamehameha the Conqueror fought final battle with O’ahu warriors (for further details see King Kamehameha I Unites the Islands). The latter either jumped to their deaths or fought until they were pushed over the cliff edge rather than give in. This atmospheric site is sometimes cold and misty, but always spectacular and spooky.Off Pali Highway
6. Queen Emma Summer Palace
Hānaiakamalama, a modest white, wood-frame house with high ceilings and deep porches, was the perfect warm weather retreat, just far enough up the Nu’uanu Heights from Honolulu to catch chilly breezes. Queen Emma (née Rooke), who married King Kamehameha IV in 1856, inherited the home from her uncle. It was slated for destruction in the early 1900s, but saved by the Daughters of Hawai’i organization, who now operate it as a historical museum.2913 Pali Hwy • 595 3167 • 9am–4pm daily • Adm
7. Punchbowl Cemetery
Among O’ahu’s most visited sites, the National Memorial Cemetery of the Pacific, spectacularly situated inside a volcanic crater, offers extraordinary views and a humbling sense of the human sacrifice brought about by various Pacific wars.2177 Puowaina Dr. • 532 3720 • 8am–6:30pm daily • American Legion members lead tours for a fee
8. Contemporary Museum
A gracious family property on Makiki Heights overlooking Honolulu has become a world class art center, showcasing cutting edge work. There are delightful gardens, a quirky gift shop, and an exceptional café.2411 Makiki Heights Dr. • 526 1322 • 10am–4pm Tue–Sat, noon–4pm Sun • Adm (free third Thu of month)
9. Nu’uanu Cultural District
Also known as Gallery Row, this area is a blended community of shops, restaurants, theaters, churches, and bars between downtown and Chinatown proper. The best time to get a sense of its rich life is on the first Friday evening of each month, when galleries and boutiques hold the First Friday Gallery Walk and stay open until 9pm, offering wine and pūpū (snacks), music, and opportunities to meet the artists. Even if your timing is off, you can pick up a Gallery Walk self guided tour map at any area gallery.Between Nimitz and Beretania, River and Bishop Sts
10. Kaka’ako Waterfront Park
Honolulu’s newest park – in its most changed neighborhood on the waterfront between Sand Island and Ala Moana Beach Park – offers grassy knolls, views from ‘Ewa to Diamond Head, picnic pavilions, a walking path, and a chance to watch the surfers up close at the infamous Point Panic.
The Duck
That odd-looking, green and yellow vehicle that you are likely to see in downtown Honolulu is “The Duck,” a WWII vintage amphibious landing craft (DUKW was a manufacturer’s acronym), refitted for open air touring. Call988 3825 to book a trip.
Morning in Chinatown
Early Morning
Chinatown is best enjoyed right after breakfast, when the stands overflow with locally grown fruits and vegetables, imported Asian goods, Pacific fish, freshly made noodles, and every possible part of the chicken and pig. Wear comfortable shoes, dress for sunshine, and park atone of the less expensive municipal lots on Smith or Maunakea Streets.
The area between River and Nu’uanu, Beretania and King is great for small gifts — sandalwood soap, painted fans, kitchen tools, Chinese pottery, dried persimmons, and red-and-gold good luck banners. You can watch the butchers chop char siu (barbecue pork) so fast it looks like sleight of hand. Buy some fresh fruit to take back to the hotel.
Late Morning
When you’ve had enough, head mauka (toward the mountains) on River Street until you meet up with North Vineyard Street. There you’ll find the gorgeously arrayed Kuan Yin Temple and cool, green Foster Botanical Gardens. Explore a bit before turning back toward Chinatown for lunch.
Try one of the popular restaurants in Chinatown, such as Cuu Long II (Vietnamese on N. Hotel), Mei Sum (dim sum on Smith),, Little Village Noodle House (Chinese on Smith), To Chau ( pho soup on River), or the stuffed French bread sandwiches at Ba-Le (on King).
Best of the Rest
1. Honolulu Harbor
Almost all of the state’s waterborne traffic passes through here, and 98 percent of imports come to the islands by water. A great spot for watching harbor life is the patio of Gordon Biersch at the Aloha Tower Marketplace.
2. Alexander & Baldwin Building
The 1929 terracotta and tile A&B Building epitomizes Territorial period Hawaiian architecture. Asian, Mediterranean and island influences are filtered through the quintessential Hawaiian architects, C. W. Dickey and Hart Wood.Bishop and Merchant streets
3. Ala Moana Center
With over 350 stores and regular live entertainment, this is Hawai’i’s largest shopping mall and most visited destination.1450 Ala Moana Blvd • 955 9517
4. Kuan Yin Temple
Light bounces off the exterior of this Chinese place of worship; inside, incense drifts and the goddess of mercy looks on as devotees pray.170 N. Vineyard Blvd • 533 6361 • Daily • Free
5. Lili’uokalani Gardens
This garden was a retreat for the queen, where she picnicked to the tinkling sounds of Nu’uanu Stream.Waikahalulu Lane, off School St. in the Nu’uanu neighborhood • 522 7060 • Daily • Free
6. Academy Art Center
Exhibitions and sales of various art societies. The work is often very affordable.1111 Victoria St. • 532 8741
7. TEMARI Center for Asian and Pacific Arts
This art group got its start when a few crafters met in 1979 to share their knowledge of Asian arts. Now the center hosts prestigious classes.1754 Lusitana St. (Hongpa Hongwanji Temple) • 536 4566
8. University of Hawai’i
Two self-guided walking tours focus on the plant life and art work on the campus.Info from Campus Center • 956 7235 • www.hawaii.edu
9. Tantalus Drive
The loop drive from Makiki Street up Round Top Drive, and along Tantalus Drive is not to be missed – picnic along the way at Pu’u ‘Ualaka’a Park.
10. Ala Wai Canal
With a wide path all along its length, the canal offers a lovely evening’s walk, ending at the Ala Wai Yacht Harbor.
Places to Eat
1. Nico’s Pier 38
Lyon-born chef creates gourmet dishes using market-fresh fish. Relaxing waterfront dining, both indoors and outdoors, with a full bar and fish market.113 N. Nimitz Hwy • 540 1377 • $45–$60
2. Uncle Bo’s
One of Waikīkī’s most popular late-night spots for wildly creative appetizers and social snacks. Modern, casual environs attract a hip clientele.559 Kapahulu Ave. • 735 8311 • $30–$45
3. Town
Trendy, youthful spot in Kaimuki, nationally acclaimed for its commitment to local and organic ingredients.3435 Waiale’e Ave. • 735 5900 • $45–$60
4. Hiroshi Eurasion Tapas
Award winning chef Hiroshi Fukui presents a fusion of European and Asian cuisines. The walls feature frequently changing works by local artists.500 Ala Moana Blvd., Honolulu • 533 4476 • Dinner only • $30–$45
5. Kincaid’s Fish, Chop and Steak House
Eat steak, fish, or lobster here overlooking Kewalo Basin.1050 Ala Moana Blvd. • 591 2005 • $45–$60
6. Kua’aina Sandwich Shop
This is famous for its burgers, piled with a range of toppings, from bacon and cheese to salsa and pineapple.Ward Village Shops, 1116 Auahi St. • 591 9133 • under $20
7. Cafe Sistina
Even if the Northern Italian food here wasn’t scrumptious, you’d still have to go just to see chef-owner Sergio Mitrotti’s wall and ceiling murals.1314 S. King St. • 596 0061 • $30–$45
8. Chef Mavro
Small, award winning restaurant offering “France Hawai’i cuisine.” Much focuses on the freshest local seafood (for further details see Chef Mavro).1969 S. King St. • 944 4714 • Dinner only • Closed Mon • over $60
9. Alan Wong’s Restaurant
One of the best restaurants in Hawai’i, where European style is married with the best island techniques (for further details see Alan Wong’s Restaurant).1857 S. King St. • 949 2526 • over $60
10. Leonard’s Bakery
Founded in 1952, this beloved local bakery churns out warm, handmade malassadas (Portuguese doughnuts).933 Kapahulu Ave. • 737 5591 • under $20
