North Shore
The North Shore is many things to many people. For big wave riders, it is the peak of their craft — the navel, the source. For Honoluluans, it’s the far, far country, and turning around point for Sunday drives. And for those who appreciate fresh, flavorful food, it’s fast becoming an important source of superb produce, ranging from tropical fruits to coffee, corn to free-range beef. The coastline itself displays a split personality during the course of the year. From April to October, the beaches are playgrounds, broad and golden, visited by gentle waves, and smiled on by the sun. From October through March, however, high surf robs the beaches of sand, or piles it high into dunes, and the potential danger of swimming here cannot be overstated.
1. Banzai Pipeline
Banzai Beach encompasses the shoreline between Ke Waena and Ke Nui Roads off Kamehameha Highway. Here, broad expanses of sand fringe a rocky shore, over which the surf boils. The most famous of the wild surfing breaks is the tubular Banzai Pipeline, which attracts the greatest risk taking surfers. Lifeguards are kept very busy here because of the steeply sloping ocean bottom and the irresistible allure of huge winter surf.
2. Pūpūkea Beach Park
The 80 narrow acres of Pūpūkea Beach Park include two very popular snorkeling and skin diving areas. Shark’s Cove is a rocky inlet, often used by scuba diving operators for training. Three Tables is a network of shallow coral reefs and ponds. The Pūpūkea Foodland store, across the highway, is an excellent stop for provisions, and the Sunset Beach Fire Station offers aid and information.
3. Pu’uomahuka Heiau
This luakini heiau (sacrificial temple), honoring the war god Kū, is the largest on the island. It encompasses an expansive network of three enclosures that command panoramic views of Waimea Bay and the surrounding countryside. An altar has been restored at which you may see (but not touch) personal offerings.
From Kamehameha Hwy, drive up the hill on Pūpūkea Rd; the dirt track into the luakini heiau is on the right and is marked by a visitor attraction sign
4. Waimea Valley
Once an adventure park with tram rides and cliff divers, this valley is now owned by the Office of Hawaiian Affairs. The center’s focus is on the conservation of the valley’s natural resources and layered history through interpretive hikes and cultural activities.59-864 Kamehameha Hwy., Hale’iwa • 638 7766 • www.waimeavalley.net • Daily • Adm
5. Hale’iwa Ali’i Beach Park & Hale’iwa Beach County Park
These parks flank each other on either side of the Anahulu River, and if they look familiar it’s because they were a primary set for Baywatch Hawai’i. Ali’i Park features a boat ramp and is popular for fishing and surfing. Across the river, Hale’iwa Beach offers safe swimming and is an excellent place for a family party or picnic.
6. Hale’iwa Town
Plan your day to allow a couple of hours exploring historic Hale’iwa Town – the touristy top layer is built on a genuine base of community, made up of an eclectic mix of surfers, characters, and families who have lived in “the house of the ‘iwa bird” for generations. Once a gracious retreat for wealthy summer visitors, the place has a certain timelessness. To get a feel for it, park at either end of town and walk, poking into shops and lingering on the Anahulu River Bridge to watch the water flow by.
7. Queen Lili’uokalani Protestant Church
Queen Lili’uokalani was part of this congregation when she visited her summer home in Hale’iwa. Though the present structure dates only from 1961, a century old moon-phase clock she gave to the church is proudly displayed. The church is famed for its annual fundraising lū’au feast each August.66-090 Kamehameha Hwy • 637 9364 • Open daily
8. Waimea Bay
This legendary surf spot is also a good choice for scuba divers and free divers. The wide sandy beach is perfect for sunbathers and families. Picnic areas, showers, and rest rooms, make Waimea Bay an ideal place to spend the day. Jumping off the large rock outcropping in the bay is a favorite pastime among local daredevilsFree
9. Dillingham Airfield
This tiny airport is well known as a center for gliding, skydiving, and scenic flights (for further details see Adventures).69-000 Farrington Hwy, Mokulē’ia • 637 4551 • Honolulu Soaring (637 0207) offers daily flights
10. Ka’ena Point
This sprawling state park begins at the abrupt and muddy end of Farrington Highway and takes you along a wild, boulder-strewn shoreline to the dunes at O’ahu’s westernmost tip. This is said to be where the souls of the dead leapt into the afterlife. It’s a broiling hot 2.5-hour hike (Ka’ena means “the heat”), but worth it for the beauty of the landscape and the whales you can spot in season. Take sunscreen, water, hat, and sturdy walking shoes.
The Wild North Shore
If you’re interested in wildlife, several beaches along this coast serve as basking areas for turtles. Wedge tailed shearwaters nest in the area in the late summer and fall, and whales can be seen frolicking offshore from November through April.
North Shore Excursion
Morning
Begin with this premise: it’s too far to drive in one day. Granted, a 50-mile round trip from Waikīkī may not seem like much, but remember that most of the route is on two-lane highways, so you can’t rush, and there’s a lot to see. So, if possible, check in at the Turtle Bay Resort in Kahuku, which offers hotel rooms and suites renovated in Plantation style, as well as condos and cottages with full kitchens and multiple bedrooms.
From there, you can easily run into Hale’iwa for a morning’s shopping – there’s LOTS of it and some items are actually cheaper than in the city, notably pareau wraps. Have lunch at Kua‘aina or Hale’iwa Joe’s Seafood Grill.
Afternoon
For the afternoon, you can keep going north and take a heart thrilling glider ride at Dillingham Airfield or rent a water bicycle from Surf N Sea in Hale’iwa Town. Alternatively, head back toward the resort, stopping to sun or snorkel along the way.
Try to plan your excursion around an event (checkwww.gohawaii.com for an events calendar). Highly recommended are the rare Toro Nogashi lantern ceremony, hosted by Hale’iwa Shingon Mission in August, and, of course, the winter championship surf meets, which aren’t easy to predict because they are wave-dependent.
Places to Eat in Hale’iwa
1. Ted’s Bakery
The source of heavenly cream pies sold all over the island; the chocolate- haupia (coconut) is Ted’s signature. Stop by from 7am to pick up fresh pastries and coffee.59-024 Kamehameha Hwy, Hale’iwa • 638 8207 • under $20
2. Waialua Bakery
A popular hangout with surfers. The excellent smoothies, sandwiches, and cookies keep visitors coming back for more.66-200 Kamehameha Hwy, Hale’iwa • 637 9079 • under $20
3. Jameson’s by the Sea
This longtime favorite steak and seafood restaurant has a gallery and gift shop, too.62-540 Kamehameha Hwy, Hale’iwa • 637 6262 • $45–$60
4. Hale’iwa Joe’s Seafood Grill
With a view of Hale’iwa harbor from its patio, the restaurant specializes in “boat drinks” and fresh fish.66-011 Kamehameha Hwy, Hale’iwa • 637 8005 • $30–$45
5. Shave Ice Stops
Two neighboring operations specialize in sweet, drippy shave ice. This treat is a legacy of the days when ice was shipped to Hawai’i from Alaska in giant blocks. The shavings, created when the blocks were cut, were treasured by children. In the 1920s, Chinese entrepreneurs created fruit syrups to pour over the ice, and Japanese craftsmen created a plane-like device to shave it. Latch on to the shortest line and enjoy.
Matsumoto’s • 66-087 K. Hwy
Aoki’s • 66-082 K. Hwy
6. Pizza Bob’s
Pies, salads, and sandwiches, as well as pizzas.66-145 Kamehameha Hwy, Hale’iwa • 637 5095 • $20–$30
7. Luibueno’s Mexican Seafood & Fish Market
This restaurant, bar, and fish market is a local favorite for its traditional Baja-style Mexican food made using fresh local ingredients.66-165 Kamehameha Hwy, Hale’iwa • 637 7717 • $30–$45
8. Kua’aina Sandwich Shop
Famous for its third-of-a-pound burgers and crisp fries. Look for the crowd just off the highway near the end of town.66-160 Kamehameha Hwy, Hale’iwa • 637 6067 • $20–$30
9. Coffee Gallery
Locally grown coffees are roasted daily at this Internet café.North Shore Marketplace, Hale’iwa • 637 5571 • $20–$30
10. Cafe Hale’iwa
Ample, cheap breakfasts and Mexican-accented lunches are the fare here; they’re open only until mid afternoon. A popular surfer hangout, it’s good for people watching and finding out what’s on in town.66-460 Kamehameha Hwy, Hale’iwa • 637 5516 • $20–$30
