Central & Leeward O’ahu
For visitors who have the time to venture beyond the fleshpots of Waikīkī and the allure of the North Shore, Central and Leeward O’ahu offer the chance to better understand the everyday life of the island — the neighborhoods and shops, the down home restaurants, the lesser known beaches, and historic sites. ‘Ewa, once the quintessential company town, recalls its roots with a reconstruction plantation village. The second city of Kapolei has the state’s only water park, while Ko Olina’s gentle lagoons and the beaches of Wai’anae offer great sun and sand time. Several sacred sites – some restored, some mere remnants – remind us of the historical importance of these areas.
1. Hawai’i Plantation Village
The era when more than 400,000 immigrants and Hawaiians labored on sugar and pineapple plantations is memorialized in the 30 original structures gathered to create this living history museum. Tours are led by volunteers, many of whom are former plantation laborers or descendants of workers.
94-695 Waipahu Street, Waipahu • 677 0110 • 10am–3pm Mon–Sat • www.hawaiiplantationvillage.org • Adm age 4+
2. Kukaniloko Birthing Stones
Bloodlines were all important to ancient Hawaiians. In royal birthing areas like this, the upright stones served as support for the chiefly mother and also as chairs for the attendant priests and relatives, on hand to testify to the child’s lineage.From Kamehameha Hwy heading toward Wahiawā, turn left on Whitmore Rd, continue to dirt parking lot, and palm grove
3. Dole Plantation
The gardens and production facilities of this popular attraction introduce 900,000 visitors a year to O’ahu’s modern-day diversified agriculture industry. The pineapple is familiar, but also growing here are coffee, tropical fruit, corn, lei flowers, and exotic bromeliads. The Pineapple Garden maze, officially recognized in the Guinness Book of Records as the world’s largest maze, offers an unusual diversion.64-1550 Kamehameha Hwy • 621 8408 • 9am–5:30pm daily • www.dole-plantation.com
4. Wet ’n’ Wild Hawaii
As if the miles of beaches aren’t enough, this inland water park forms another attraction, especially for children. They just can’t get enough of the tube cruises, six-story speed slide, beach volleyball, and special birthday area.400 Farrington Hwy, Kapolei (exit 1 off H1) • Jun–Aug: daily; Sep–May: Thu–Mon • 674 9283 • www.wetnwildhawaii.com • Adm
5. Hawaiian Railway Line
The Hawaiian Railway Line is six restored miles of what were once 70-plus miles of track delivering people and supplies from ‘Ewa to Honolulu. It operates Sundays, offering 90-minute round trips to the coast at Ko Olina and back. Take the train, then later drive back to Ko Olina to swim in the manmade lagoons in the shade of coco-palms. You can also have lunch or dinner at the JW Marriott 'Ihilani Resort & Spa (for further details see Azul).Catch the train from 91-1001 Renton Road, ‘Ewa • 681 5461 • 1pm & 3pm Sun • www.hawaiianrailway.com • Fare
6. Pōka’i Bay
Beautiful, tranquil Pōka’i Beach County Park is the most welcoming swimming and snorkeling beach along the Wai’anae Coast. It’s safe year round because of the protection of a long breakwater. The bay’s name, “night of the great one,” is rooted in the story of a voyager from the south, Pōka’i, who is said to have planted the first coconut grove on the island on this site.85-037 Wai’anae Valley Rd
7. Kū’ilioloa Heiau
This sacred site on Kāne’ilio Point is believed to have been a blessing point for travelers arriving and departing by canoe. Its name refers to a dog-god who protected voyagers.
8. Mākaha Beach
Mākaha (“fierce” in Hawaiian) lives up to its name, with high surf and a runoff pond behind the beach that periodically breaks through the sand bar and rushes into the bay. In the old days, it was infamous for a group of bandits who terrorized the area. Today, with the exception of when the surf is high, this is a safe beach for swimming.84-369 Farrington Hwy
9. Kāne’ākī Heiau
Located in a lush, park-like setting at the back of Mākaha Valley, this superbly preserved and restored sacred site was once a benign agricultural temple for the god Lono. It became a luakini (temple of human sacrifice) when Kamehameha I used the area as a gathering point for his troops while preparing for battle with Kaua’i.Located inside the gated Mauna’olu Estates (request entry at the gate) • 695 8174 • 10am–2pm Tue–Sun
10. Yokohama Bay
So-called because of its popularity with Japanese pole fishermen, this is the last sandy shore on the northwestern coast of O’ahu. It’s also part of a large but undeveloped park complex that stretches around the end of the island to Ka’ena. Though known as a popular surfing site, it is also a place where you can enjoy the beach in relative isolation.
Ka’ena from the West
Though most folks come to Ka’ena Point from the Mokulē’ia side, the 5-mile trek from the Wai’anae direction offers a sandier section of the old Farrington Highway. En route, watch for yellow ‘ilima, purple pā’ū o hi’iaka and white naupaka flowers.
A Day with Dolphins
Morning
Schools of spinner and bottle nose dolphins, and, from November to March, pods of humpback whales are readily seen just off the Wai’anae Coast. Several cruise companies offer dolphin-watching excursions in various craft, usually with small numbers of passengers. The excursions depart from Wai’anae Boat Harbor or Ko Olina Marina. Most offer transport from Waikīkī hotels, though you can choose to pick up the tour at the harbor. You will have to get up early, because the boats usually depart promptly at 7am.
Wild Side Specialty Tours (www.sailhawaii.com, 306 7273) offers a whale and dolphin-watching cruise aboard a 42-foot catamaran. It is operated by marine researchers who believe that sail-powered vessels are less disruptive to the animals. The boat accommodates an intimate 4 to 15 passengers and the four-hour morning excursions include refreshments.
Afternoon
For a Mediterranean-style lunch after your cruise, try Azul in Ko Olina.
If you’re traveling with kids who want to emulate the dolphins, you can spend the rest of the day at Wet ’n’ Wild Hawaii. Less energetic members of the party can relax in the café or lie in shallow water away from the screaming action.
Best of the Rest
1. Blaisdell Park
On the shore of Pearl Harbor, Blaisdell is a family favorite due to its pavilion facilities, shade trees, and children’s play equipment.98-319 Kamehameha Hwy, Pearl City • Free
2. Aloha Stadium Swap Meet
Ringed around the coliseum-like stadium, the largest swap meet in the islands is a great place for kitsch souvenirs, aloha wear, and beach equipment.99-500 Salt Lake Blvd. • 486 6704 • 8am–3pm Wed & Sat, 6:30am–3pm Sun
3. Waipahu Town
This one-time plantation town is the hub for O’ahu’s Filipino community. Activities at the Filcom Center (94-428 Mokuola St.), one of the largest Filipino community centers outside of the Philippines, include dance and martial-arts classes and film screenings.
4. Waikele Premium Outlets
This vast outlet mall includes factory-direct shops for Sak’s Fifth Avenue and Coach, as well as Banana Republic, Calvin Klein, Levi’s, Juicy Couture, and Tommy Hilfiger.94-790 Lumiana St., Waipahu, Exit 5A off H1 • 676 5656
5. Wahiawā Town
Primarily a military town, dusty Wahiawā, high on the central plain, is an unglamorous but useful stop-off for supplies when journeying through the hinterland.
6. Wahiawā Botanical Gardens
Founded by commercial planters as an experimental garden, this 25-acre arboretum encompasses a tropical rain forest and upland gardens.1396 California Ave., Wahiawā • 621 5463 • 9am–4pm daily • Free
7. Don Quijote
This Japanese discount store is open 24 hours, making it a convenient stop for groceries, inexpensive souvenirs, and other essentials.94-144 Farringdon Hwy, Waipahu • 678 6800
8. Pearlridge Shopping Center
This two-section shopping mall (connected by a monorail) is especially popular with ‘tweens and teens.98-1005 Moanalua Rd, ‘Aiea • 488 0981
9. ‘Aiea Bowl
This bustling bowling alley is a family-friendly spot by day, with many dining options, but things liven up at night, with glow-in-the-dark “cosmic bowling” and dancing until 2am.99-115 ‘Aiea Heights Dr. • 488 6854
10. Ice Palace
O’ahu’s full service ice rink is open daily for public skating and is a perfect escape from the heat. Skate rental is included in the admission price.4510 Salt Lake Blvd. • 487 9921 • Adm
Places to Eat
1. Buzz’s Original Steak House, ‘Aiea
A longtime local favorite, Buzz’s is known for its generous salad bar, grilled steaks, and fresh seafood. The original “Original” is in Kailua.98-751 Kuahou Pl, ‘Aiea, Pearl City • 487 6465 • $30–$45
2. Champa Thai
Award winning Thai spot, with a dozen types of curry and an expansive vegetarian menu.Pearl Kai Shopping Center, 98-199 Kamehameha Hwy, ‘Aiea • 488 2881 • $20–$30
3. Molly’s Smokehouse
This rare source of Texas style barbecue is widely patronized by southerners from nearby military bases.23 S. Kamehameha Hwy, Suite No. 102, Wahiawā • 621 4858 • $20–$30
4. Shiro’s Saimin Haven & Family Restaurant
This shrine to Japanese style noodle soup and immense local plate lunches has to be seen to be believed. Founder and patriarch Shiro Matsuo has lined the walls with scribbled notes expressing his philosophy of life.Waimalu Shopping Center, 98-020 Kamehameha Hwy, ‘Aiea • 488 8824 • under $20
5. Anna Miller’s
Known for its homemade pies and friendly staff, this popular family restaurant will serve you breakfast, lunch, or dinner 24 hours a day.98-115 Kaonohi St, ‘Aiea • 487 2421 • $20–$30
6. Boston’s North End Pizza Bakery
The pies are Boston-style – thick edge, thin center, cheesy, saucy – and the attitude is East Coast too. That means “eat it and beat it.”98-298 Kamehameha Hwy, ‘Aiea • 487 4055 • under $20
7. Azul
This fine dining restaurant at the JW Marriott ‘Ihilani Resort & Spa is a lovely, shady and cool space, opening onto a tropical lagoon. The Mediterranean menu manages to be both refined and rustic.92-101 Olani St, Ko Olina • 679 0079 • $45–$60
8. Roy’s Ko Olina
Award-winning chef and restaurateur Roy Yamaguchi perfects his Hawai’i fusion cuisine, while bringing the excitement of the open-plan kitchen to the islands.92-110 Aliinui Dr., Ko Olina Golf Club • 676 7697 • $45–$60
9. Ushio-Tei
This quiet oasis in the JW Marriott ‘Ihilani Resort & Spa serves traditional Japanese fare and has a popular all-you-can-eat buffet.92-1001 Olani St., Ko Olina • 679 0079 • $30–$45
10. ‘Ama ‘Ama
Disney’s most lauded restaurant serves modern interpretations of classic Hawaiian dishes in a scenic beachfront setting.Aulani Resort • 92-1185 Ali’inui Dr., Ko Olina • 674 6200 • $45–$60
