Windward O’ahu
From Kailua to Kahuku is a journey from town to country, suburb to rural O’ahu. Kailua, a bedroom community of Honolulu, is an upscale neighborhood of beach and lake homes, while Kāne’ohe accommodates a Marine base and Hawaiian homestead lands. North from Kāne’ohe, the route along Kamehameha Highway passes a string of sandy beaches and brooding valleys, watched over by the sharp-etched Ko’olau Mountain Range.
1. Ulupō Heiau State Monument
Some still arrange leaf wrapped gift bundles on the massive rock platform, once a site of prayer, sacrifice, ceremony, and divination. Likely built during the time of Kamehameha I, the heiau continued in use until the ancient religion was officially abandoned. If Kailua bound on Highway 61, turn left into Ulu’oa Street at the Windward YMCA, park in the Y lot or along the street and follow the signs.
2. Kailua
This country-chic town consists of a few blocks of shops and restaurants, peaceful ‘60s-era neighborhoods, and a string of popular beaches. Park along Kailua Road and explore on foot to find interesting gift and clothing shops, and at number 600 Lanikai Juice, which serves smoothies and juices.
3. Lanikai
Developed as a beach retreat in the 1920s, Lanikai (reached by a beach road south of Kailua) is one of the most sought after addresses on O’ahu. The neighborhood remains tight knit, hosting community plays and an exceptional pre-Christmas craft fair.
4. He’eia State Park and Fishponds
North on Kamehameha Highway from Kāne’ohe, surrounded by mangrove swamp, this grassy, well maintained state park offers a view of the 80-acre He’eia fishpond, the largest intact aquaculture zone in the islands. When in use, fingerlings of the prized ‘ama’ama (mullet) and ‘ahole (Hawaiian flagtail) would swim into the rock walled ponds through vertical gates called kahala, but would be unable to swim out. In this way, the fish were successfully farmed.
5. Ahu o Laka Sandbar
At low tide on a weekend, drive slowly on Kamehameha Highway just past He’eia Kea Boat Harbor. A little way offshore, you’ll see watercraft of every description clustered around seemingly nothing at all. In fact, just above sea level is a sandbar, and locals like to fetch up here, light the hibachi and hang out. Rent a canoe or kayak and join them.
6. Kualoa Regional Park
This flat, windy park, with its narrow sandy beach and shallow inshore ponds, is fantastic for kite flying, snorkeling, launching watercraft, picnicking, and camping (by permit). The clearly visible peak sitting on the ocean (sometimes known as the Chinaman’s Hat) is the island of Mokoli’i.
7. Kualoa Ranch
The valley and rolling hillsides of Kualoa were once a sacred place of refuge, then passed to missionary descendants from royal hands. Today, it is a working cattle ranch, as well as a park where visitors can enjoy equestrian experiences and movie tours (for further details see also Kualoa Ranch Horse Trails). The ranch is a popular filming spot, appearing in movies and TV shows such as Jurassic Park and Lost.
Kualoa Ranch and Activity Club, 49-560 Kamehameha Hwy • 237 7321
8. Kahana Bay Beach Park/Kahana Valley
This deep, green valley is state-owned watershed land, fronted by an eight-acre city and county park. The park has a sandy beach, bathrooms, picnic tables, lots of chickens (escaped fowl are ubiquitous all along this coast) and the remnants of two fishponds. Watch for fishermen wading out to catch akule (big-eyed scad).Kualoa Ranch and Activity Club • Kamehameha Hwy • 237 7321
9. Hau’ula Trails
Hau’ula (“red hau tree”) is the starting point for three easy to moderate rambles. (A fourth hike, Sacred Falls is closed indefinitely due to landslide danger.) The two most worthwhile treks are Ma’akua Loop and Ma’akua Ridge (aka Papali Trail); both offer good views, interesting plants, and guavas in their late summer and fall season.From Kamehameha (Hwy 83), the trails are reached by Hau’ula Homestead Rd. and Ma’akua Rd.
10. Malaekahana Bay State Recreation Area
This mile-and-a-bit of curving sandy beach is distinguished by bare-bones beach homes available for rent, a reef that keeps the inshore waters calm, and Goat Island, a wild and beautiful place that can be reached on foot at low tide; be sure to wear beach shoes.
Shrimp Trucks
Northbound on Kamehameha Highway between Kāne’ohe and Kahuku, you’ll encounter a string of shrimp trucks, some in lunchwagons, others in roadside stands. It all began with a single shrimp aquaculture operation, which sparked a North Shore love affair with crustaceans. If you stop, be sure to ask if the shrimp you’re getting are locally grown (some aren’t) or previously frozen.
A Day on the Windward Coast
Morning
Begin your itinerary by heading straight for Kailua, where you can stop off at Agnes Bakery for coffee and malassadas (Portuguese holeless doughnuts fried up fresh and eaten hot).
Treat yourself to some Hawaiian scents and lotions at Lanikai Bath and Body. If you’re feeling peckish, pick up an authentic plate lunch at Fat Boy’s Local Drive-In • 301A Hahani St. 
Google Map for a true taste of the island.
Then it’s time to head for Kailua Beach or Lanikai for a beach afternoon.
Afternoon
You could opt for a lazy, sun-soaked afternoon. But if you fancy a little more activity, rent some form of watercraft from Bob Twogood Kayaks (262 5656) or Kailua Sailboards and Kayaks (262 2555). Then, either paddle out to the Nā Mokulua (“the mokes”) off Kailua Beach or drive over to He’eia Kai Boat Harbor to check out the Ahu O Laka sandbar.
If you do plan to spend more time on the coast, consider reserving one of the luxurious rooms at the Turtle Bay Resort • 57-091 Kamehameha Highway, Kahuku • 293 8811 Google Map. You can putter your way from Kailua to Kahuku, leaving mid afternoon and making one or two stops, and still arrive by check in time. You won’t have to face the long drive back across the island, and you can dine in the extraordinary Pa’akai restaurant.
Places to Eat
1. Buzz’s Original Steak House
This venerable spot – a warren of dim rooms scented with the delicious aroma of grilling meat – turns out surf and turf for everyone from Lanikai millionaires to sandy surfers.413 Kawailoa Road, Lanikai • 261 4661 • $30–$45
2. Ola
Located right on the beach, Ola draws diners from neighboring Turtle Bay Resort for its stunning ocean views and fresh, locally inspired cuisine.57-091 Kamehameha Hwy., Kahuku • 293 0801 • $30–$45
3. Prima
A modern Italian/American restaurant, Prima uses fresh, local meat and produce in its dishes. The Kiawe wood-fired brick oven pizza is a favorite.108 Hekili St., Kailua • 888 8933 • $45–$60
4. Aunty Pat’s Paniolo Cafe
Named for a descendant of the Kualoa Ranch’s founder, this casual café serves breakfasts and lunches, including gourmet burgers made fresh from the ranch’s herd.Kualoa Ranch, 49-560 Kamehameha Hwy • 237 7321 • under $20
5. Pah Ke’s Chinese Restaurant
Besides the chop suey standards, Pah Ke’s specials include chilled fruit soups and dishes that focus on locally grown tropical fruits.46-018 Kamehameha Hwy, Kāne’ohe • 235 4505 • under $20
6. Hale’iwa Joe’s
Call to check Joe’s isn’t reserved for a wedding – neighboring Ha’ikū Gardens does a booming bride-and-groom business. If open, expect steaks, seafood, and sandwiches.46-336 Ha’ikū Rd., Kāne’ohe • 247 6671 • $30–$45
7. Boots & Kimo’s Homestyle Kitchen
Popular with locals and tourists, this welcoming café often has lengthy lines for its delicious macadamia nut pancakes and Portuguese sausage.151 Hekili St., Kailua • 263 7929 • under $20
8. Uahi Island Grill
Visit this casual local institution for a sumptuous meal at an affordable price. Uahi Island Grill serves contemporary island favorites as well as traditional plate lunches.131 Hekili St. • 266 4646 • $20–$30
9. Crouching Lion Inn
Named after a nearby lion like rock formation, this old-fashioned restaurant ladles out soups, salads, and its specialties: Slavonic Steak and Mile High Pie.51-666 Kamehameha Hwy, Ka’a’awa • 237 8981 • $30–$45
10. Pa’akai
The name means “sea salt” in the Hawaiian language. Enjoy sea-to-table fare featuring local, organic ingredients.57-091 Kamehameha Hwy, Turtle Bay Resort • 293 6000 • $45–$60
