South Shore
It's an easy hour's drive around the South Shore of O’ahu from Waikīkī to the rural village of Waimānalo. But in the course of those dozen miles, you experience the multi-dimensional nature of an island whose Hawaiian name means “the gathering place.” Beginning with the exclusive bedroom community of Kāhala, you next come to a series of densely populated, valley neighborhoods. Each of these climbs from a coral fringed beach to the apex of a deep valley in the classic Hawaiian land division known as an ahupua’a. At the island’s edge, the wave- and wind-tossed coast provides an ecologically fragile landscape, before giving way to mile upon mile of golden sand, bordering the horse country.
1. Kāhala Beach
This secretive mile and a half of golden sand, hidden by the ritzy homes of suburban Kāhala, offers wading, snorkeling, reef fishing, and sunbathing. To get here from Waikīkī, take Diamond Head Road until it becomes Kāhala Avenue. In the 4,400 to 4,800 blocks of Kāhala Avenue, watch out for seven narrow paths, marked by blue beach access signs (you’ll need to park on the street). The bigger stretch of Wai’alae Beach Park (with restrooms and picnic tables) is just beyond Kapakahi Stream bridge.
2. Paikō Lagoon State Reserve
Its name deriving from a Portuguese former resident called Pico, the virtually unknown Paikō Peninsula offers bird watching, fishing, snorkeling, and unprecedented seclusion. From Kalaniana’ole, turn right on to narrow Paikō Drive, park on the street and take the beach access trail to the water. Turn left (east) and find your spot past the second to last house. You’ll need to bring food and water with you, as it’s a remote area.
3. Kuli’ou’ou Beach Park
This family-friendly park on Maunalua Bay offers perfect picnic sites, restrooms, views and, at low tide, the opportunity for novice kayakers to take to the water. From Kalaniana’ole, turn right on Kuli’ou’ou Road, left on Summer Street and right again on Bay, which comes to a dead end in a parking lot.
4. Maunalua Bay Beach Park
This sun-baked park has picnic tables, restrooms, and some grassy areas for play. It’s a launching point for excursions onto Maunalua Bay, from outrigger canoe paddling and water skiing to fishing, diving, and snorkeling trips.
5. Hanauma Bay
Keyhole-shaped Hanauma Bay is one of the most spectacular sights in the islands, and highly recommended for swimming and snorkeling. It’s a good idea to go early in the day because the bay is so well used that access and parking can be difficult. Call ahead on396 4229 to check for periodic closures.
6. Sandy Beach
Renowned for the constant winds that make kite flying a feature, Sandy Beach also has wicked waves, which routinely slam unsuspecting waders and body surfers into the rock hard sand. This much used beach is, therefore, one to treat with respect. So rule number one is: don’t turn your back on the ocean here or anywhere else, for that matter.
7. Makapu’u Beach Park
This park contains some of O’ahu’s beloved landmarks – the beach (a bodysurfer’s mecca), the nearby lighthouse, and the shore trail. Just over the rocks is “baby beach,” where pools are safe for children’s play. Manana better known as Rabbit Island, is a dramatic landmark offshore.
8. Waimānalo Bay State Recreation Area
Here you catch sight of uninterrupted white sand that stretches three miles along the coast. The facility includes Waimānalo Beach Park, south of town, and the recreation area to the north. Both offer prime picnic areas, camp sites, restrooms, and showers. The park is right on the road but the recreation area is secluded in an ironwood grove (known as Sherwood Forest, alas, in part because car burglaries are a problem).
9. Bellows Field Beach County Park
Though located on a military installation that includes an army reserve camp, an area where Marines practice amphibious landings, this sprawling beach and campsite with ample parking is a public facility on weekends and holidays. Many consider it the best of the Waimānalo beaches; bodyboarding, boogie boarding, and surfing are prime. Camping here is by permit only.
10. Waimānalo Polo Field
Polo, favored by Hawaiian royalty, has a 200-year history here. Honolulu Polo Club matches are held at 3pm each Sunday from June through October (adults $5, children under 12 free). There is a shaded grandstand, food for sale, and you’ll find lots of aloha (warmth) for visitors – who have included the UK’s Prince Charles, who played a match here in 1974.
Kite Flying
On any windy day at Sandy Beach, the sky is bright with kites. Flyers from age 6 to 60 play out the lines, straining against the wind. Traditionally, Hawaiian kites were made from hau wood, covered with kappa or woven lauhala, with olona cord used for the string. Skill was needed both to make and fly them.
South Shore Tour
Morning
A South Shore circular driving tour makes for a wonderful all-day itinerary. From Waikīkī, take H1 to the Wai’alae exit and start the morning with croissants at the Patisserie and shopping at Kāhala Mall; shorts and sandals are just fine even at this ritzy mall.
Continue south, and finish off the morning with a water adventure at Maunalua Bay, such as water-skiing or diving. (Reserve ahead at water activity shops at Hawai’i Kai Towne Center or Koko Marina Center.) Alternatively, for a more sedate pursuit, take the binoculars and go birdwatching on the edge of the Paikō Lagoon State Reserve.
Back on Kalaniana’ole, grab a quick lunch at Kona Brewing Co. or one of a dozen inexpensive, interesting eateries at Koko Marina Center.
Afternoon
Cruise slowly around the island’s edge, stopping to view the Hālona Blow Hole and watch the bodysurfers and kite-fliers at Sandy Beach.
At Makapu’u Wayside, park and make the easy hour-long, two mile trek up and down the old lighthouse road; the views will stay with you long after you return home.
Afterward, stop for a drink or bite to eat at Zippy’s and refresh yourself with a swim at one of the Waimānalo beach parks before heading home via the Pali Highway.
Places to Shop
1. Compleat Kitchen
Honolulu’s first upscale kitchen supply store stocks gorgeous bamboo cutting boards and other high-quality gifts for foodies.
Kāhala Mall, 4211 Wai’alae Ave. • 737 5827
2. Ohelo Road
Stylish women’s clothing boutique, featuring very chic imports.Kāhala Mall, 4211 Wai’alae Ave. • 735 5525
3. Vue Hawaii
A careful selection of gifts with island themes, many of them hand-made in Hawai’i by local artisans.Kāhala Mall, 4211 Wai’alae Ave. • 735 8774
4. Paperie
A lovely shop, chock full of fine quality paper goods, Hawai’i-themed cards, stationery, and wedding supplies.Kāhala Mall, 4211 Wai’alae Ave. • 735 6464
5. Hawai’i Kai Towne Center and Hawai’i Kai Shopping Center
These side-by-side open malls offer grocery shopping, dive shops, boat charter firms, and restaurants, as well as banking and dry cleaning services.
Towne Center • 6700 Kalaniana’ole Hwy
Shopping Center • 377 Keahole • 396 0766
6. Koko Marina Center
Another shopping center, with a vast supermarket, theater complex, many eateries, and places to rent water gear or arrange excursions along the coast.7192 Kalaniana’ole Hwy • 395 4737
7. Whole Foods Market
Widely popular, mainland chain that is a one-stop shop for an array of locally-produced food and gift items. It stocks an extensive range of bakery products, cheese, beverages, including beer and wine as well as poultry and seafood.Kāhala Mall • 4211 Wai’alae Ave., 2000 • 738 0820
8. Naturally Hawaiian Gallery & Gifts
This exceptional shop offers one-of-a-kind keepsakes, original artwork, books, and jewelry. It’s also the place for Waimānalo rodeo posters and Hawaiian T-shirts.41-1025 Kalaniana’ole Hwy, Waimānalo • 259 5354
9. Gecko Books & Comics
A tiny family-owned shop that is a treasure trove of rare, hard-to-find comics as well as toys, games and trading cards sure to appeal to the child in everyone.1151, 12th Ave • 732 1292
10. Roadside Stands
Watch for charming roadside stands near Waimānalo. They sell fresh kahuku corn, fruits, chilled coconuts, tropical flowers, fresh or dried fish, and such ethnic specialties as pasteles (Puerto Rican tamales) and poke (raw fish and seaweed salad).
Places to Eat
1. 3660 on the Rise
Tucked away on the bottom floor of an office building in homey Kaimukī, this always busy bistro pleases locals and visitors with smart variations on beloved local themes – sashimi katsu-style, chocolate-filled won tons, steak in Hawaiian salt.3660 Wai’alae Ave. • 737 1177 • Closed Mon • $45–$60
2. The Counter
You can build your own burger here, or try one of their signature offerings: the Loco Moco combines a ground beef patty, fried egg, onion strings, and gravy on a bed of rice.Kāhala Mall, 4211 Wai’alae Avenue • 739 5100 • $20–$30
3. Olive Tree Cafe
One of the few Mediterranean restaurants in the islands, this spot routinely wins awards for its great Greek fare and casual style.4614 Kīlauea Ave., Kaimuki • 737 0303 • $20–$30
4. Hoku’s
This sophisticated lunch and dinner restaurant ranks high among critics and diners for its world flavors, ocean view, and gracious service.Kāhala Hotel & Resort, 5000 Kāhala Avenue • 739 8780 • over $60
5. Plumeria Beach House
This oceanfront, indoor/outdoor restaurant is family-friendly and well known for lavish buffets.Kāhala Hotel & Resort, 5000 Kāhala Ave • 739 8760 • $30–$45
6. Roy’s Restaurant
The flagship of the sprawling Roy’s Restaurant empire continues to deliver its trademarks: high energy atmosphere, a dramatic open plan kitchen, and a menu that ranges from salsa to Szechuan.6600 Kalaniana’ole Highway, Hawai’i Kai • 396 7697 • $45–$60
7. Jack’s Restaurant
Stop by this compact neighborhood spot to discover Jack’s giant Special Biscuits, breakfast until 2pm, and freshly made local plates.‘Aina Haina Shopping Center, 820 W. Hind • 373 4034 • under $20
8. Cha-Cha-Cha Salsaria
This light-hearted south of the border eatery offers inexpensive Mexican standards and fiery, fresh salsas – lots of them.Hawai’i Kai Shopping Center, 377 Keahole St. • 395 7797 • under $20
9. Kona Brewing Co
The first O’ahu brewpub by Big Island-based Kona Brewing, located on one of Hawai’i Kai’s man-made canals, serves burgers, salads, casual fare, and, of course, beer!Koko Marina Center, 7192 Kalaniana’ole Hwy • 394 5662 • $20–$30
10. Zippy’s
This seaside outpost of one of the island’s most popular chains serves inexpensive, island-style comfort food (hamburger curry, won ton noodle soup) and house signature chili.4134 Wai’alae Ave., Kāhala • 733 3730 • under $20
