CHAPTER 8
First Blush
When touched by the summer sun, apricots, nectarines, peaches, and plums become flush with tantalizing aromas and juicy goodness. Even better, the fruits preserve magnificently.
Make quick work of chopping the peaches: Place small batches of peeled and cut-up peaches in a food processor. Cover and pulse until peaches are finely chopped.
PREP: 30 minutes PROCESS: 5 minutes
7cups sugar
4cups finely chopped, peeled ripe peaches (about 3 pounds fresh) (see tip)
¼cup lemon juice
½of a 6-ounce package (1 foil pouch) liquid fruit pectin
1In a 6- to 8-quart heavy pot combine sugar, peaches, and lemon juice. Bring to boiling, stirring constantly until sugar dissolves. Quickly stir in pectin. Bring to a full rolling boil, stirring constantly. Boil hard for 1 minute, stirring constantly. Remove from heat. Quickly skim off foam with a metal spoon.
2Ladle hot jam into hot, sterilized half-pint canning jars, leaving a ¼-inch headspace. Wipe jar rims; adjust lids.
3Process filled jars in a boiling-water canner for 5 minutes (start timing when water returns to boiling). Remove jars from canner; cool on wire racks. To distribute fruit, cool for about 20 minutes, then gently turn and tilt jars without inverting them; repeat as needed. Makes about 7 half-pints.
PER TABLESPOON: 54 cal., 0 g fat, 0 mg chol., 0 mg sodium, 14 g carbo., 0 g fiber, 0 g pro.
Cardamom-Peach Jam: Prepare as directed, except stir in ¾ teaspoon freshly ground cardamom after skimming off foam.
Sweet Basil-Peach Jam: Prepare as directed, except stir in 1 cup snipped fresh basil after skimming off foam.
Bourbon-Peach Jam: Prepare as directed, except stir in ½ cup bourbon with the sugar, peaches, and lemon juice.
Chipotle-Peach Jam: Prepare as directed, except stir in 2 finely chopped chipotle chile peppers in adobo sauce (see tip) with the sugar, peaches, and lemon juice.
To make a peach Bellini float, combine this magnificent jam with soda water and a couple scoops of vanilla ice cream.
PREP: 45 minutes PROCESS: 5 minutes
7½cups sugar
3cups finely chopped, peeled ripe peaches (see tip)
1cup Prosecco or other sparkling white wine
2tablespoons lemon juice
½of a 6-ounce package (1 foil pouch) liquid fruit pectin
1In a 6- to 8-quart stainless-steel, enamel, or nonstick heavy pot combine sugar, peaches, Prosecco, and lemon juice. Bring to a full rolling boil, stirring constantly until sugar dissolves. Quickly stir in liquid pectin. Return to a full rolling boil, stirring constantly. Boil hard for 1 minute, stirring constantly. Remove from heat. Quickly skim off foam with a metal spoon, avoiding peaches.
2Ladle hot jam into hot, sterilized half-pint canning jars, leaving a ¼-inch headspace. Wipe jar rims; adjust lids.
3Process filled jars in a boiling-water canner for 5 minutes (start timing when water returns to boiling). Remove jars from canner; cool on wire racks. To distribute fruit, cool for about 20 minutes, then gently turn and tilt jars without inverting them; repeat as needed. Makes 8 half-pints.
PER TABLESPOON: 49 cal., 0 g fat, 0 mg chol., 0 mg sodium, 12 g carbo., 0 g fiber, 0 g pro.
Use the tip of a small, sharp paring knife to split the vanilla beans.
PREP: 1 hour PROCESS: 5 minutes
4cups chopped peeled ripe nectarines (see tip)
¼cup lemon juice
2vanilla beans, split lengthwise
7cups sugar
½of a 6-ounce package (1 foil pouch) liquid fruit pectin
1In a 6- to 8-quart heavy pot combine nectarines and lemon juice. Using a potato masher, crush the nectarines to create a pulp. Scrape the seeds from the vanilla beans into the pot. Stir in the vanilla bean pods and the sugar. Bring mixture to boiling over medium heat, stirring constantly until sugar dissolves.
2Increase heat to medium-high; bring mixture to a full rolling boil, stirring constantly. Quickly stir in pectin. Return to a full rolling boil, stirring constantly. Boil hard for 1 minute. Remove from heat. Quickly skim off foam with a metal spoon. Remove and discard vanilla bean pods.
3Ladle hot jam into hot, sterilized half-pint canning jars, leaving a ¼-inch headspace. Wipe jar rims; adjust lids.
4Process filled jars in a boiling-water canner for 5 minutes (start timing when water returns to boiling). Remove jars from canner; cool on wire racks. To distribute fruit, cool for about 20 minutes, then gently turn and tilt jars without inverting; repeat as needed. Makes 6 half-pints.
PER TABLESPOON: 65 cal., 0 g fat, 0 mg chol., 0 mg sodium, 17 g carbo., 0 g fiber, 0 g pro.
Upgrade the classic peanut butter and jelly sandwich by spreading it with cashew butter and plenty of this spiced-up peach jelly.
PREP: 40 minutes COOK: 20 minutes PROCESS: 5 minutes STAND: 2 days
2pounds peaches, peeled, pitted, and chopped (see tip)
1cup cider vinegar
3to 4 fresh jalapeño chile peppers, seeded (if desired) and coarsely chopped (see tip)
5cups sugar
½of a 6-ounce package (1 foil pouch) liquid fruit pectin
1In a large stainless-steel, enamel, or nonstick saucepan use a potato masher to crush peaches. Add vinegar and chile peppers. Bring to boiling over high heat; reduce heat. Simmer, covered, for about 20 minutes or until peaches and peppers are very soft. Using a jelly bag or a colander lined with several layers of 100%-cotton cheesecloth, strain the mixture. You should have about 2 cups strained liquid. Discard solids.
2In the same large saucepan combine the 2 cups strained liquid and the sugar. Bring to a full rolling boil over high heat, stirring constantly. Quickly stir in pectin. Return to a full rolling boil. Boil hard for 1 minute, stirring constantly. Remove from heat. Skim off foam with a metal spoon.
3Ladle hot jelly into hot, sterilized half-pint canning jars, leaving a ¼-inch headspace. Wipe jar rims; adjust lids.
4Process filled jars in a boiling-water canner for 5 minutes (start timing when water returns to boiling). Remove jars from canner; cool on wire racks. Before serving, let jelly stand at room temperature for 2 to 3 days or until jelly is set. Makes 5 half-pints.
PER TABLESPOON: 54 cal., 0 g fat, 0 mg chol., 0 mg sodium, 14 g carbo., 0 g fiber, 0 g pro.
This peach and raspberry jelly creates the perfect filling for small donuts such as sufganiyot (left), which are traditional treats served during Hanukkah.
PREP: 20 minutes PROCESS: 5 minutes
2½cups peach nectar
1cup raspberry puree (see tip, below)
¼cup lemon juice
7½cups sugar
16-ounce package (2 foil pouches) liquid fruit pectin
1In an 8-quart stainless-steel, enamel, or nonstick heavy pot combine peach nectar, raspberry puree, and lemon juice. Stir in sugar. Bring to a full rolling boil, stirring constantly. Quickly stir in pectin. Return to a full rolling boil, stirring constantly. Boil hard for 1 minute, stirring constantly. Remove from heat. Quickly skim off foam with a metal spoon.
2Ladle hot jelly into hot, sterilized half-pint canning jars, leaving a ¼-inch headspace. Wipe jar rims; adjust lids.
3Process filled jars in a boiling-water canner for 5 minutes (start timing when water returns to boiling). Remove jars from canner; cool on wire racks. Makes 10 half-pints.
PER TABLESPOON: 39 cal., 0 g fat, 0 mg chol., 1 mg sodium, 10 g carbo., 0 g fiber, 0 g pro.
For raspberry puree, place 3 cups fresh raspberries in a blender. Cover and blend until berries are smooth. Press blended berries through a fine-mesh sieve; discard seeds. Measure 1 cup sieved puree.
This honey-sweetened spread tastes delicious with just about every kind of cookie and cracker, but it is especially good on almond biscotti—either homemade or purchased.
PREP: 35 minutes COOK: 20 minutes PROCESS: 5 minutes
18medium ripe peaches, peeled, pitted, and cut up (see tip, below)
¼cup water
2¼cups sugar
¾cup honey
1In an 8- to 10-quart heavy pot combine peaches and the water. Bring to boiling; reduce heat. Simmer, covered, for 10 to 15 minutes or until peaches are tender. Remove from heat. Cool slightly.
2Use a blender to puree peach mixture, in batches, until smooth. Return peach puree to same pot. Add sugar and honey. Bring to boiling, stirring until sugar dissolves; reduce heat. Simmer, uncovered, for about 10 minutes or until mixture is thick and mounds on a spoon, stirring often.
3Ladle hot butter into hot, sterilized half-pint canning jars, leaving a ¼-inch headspace. Wipe jar rims; adjust lids.
4Process filled jars in a boiling-water canner for 5 minutes (start timing when water returns to boiling). Remove jars from canner; cool on wire racks. Makes 4 half-pints.
PER TABLESPOON: 56 cal., 0 g fat, 0 mg chol., 0 mg sodium, 14 g carbo., 1 g fiber, 0 g pro.
To peel peaches, nectarines, and apricots, bring a large pot of water to boiling. Place fruit in boiling water for 30 to 60 seconds or until skins start to split. Remove fruit from boiling water with a slotted spoon and plunge into a bowl of ice water. Remove fruit from water after a few minutes and use a knife to easily pull off the skins.
Select ripe, ready-to-eat peaches. Look for freestone peaches, which are easiest to prepare because the flesh does not cling to the pit.
PREP: 40 minutes COOL: 30 minutes PROCESS: 25 minutes
5¼cups water
2¼cups sugar
12whole cloves
23- to 4-inch cinnamon sticks
8to 10 pounds ripe peaches
1For syrup, in a 4- to 6-quart heavy pot combine the water, sugar, cloves, and cinnamon sticks. Bring to boiling, stirring until sugar dissolves; reduce heat. Simmer, uncovered, for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Cool for 30 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, remove and discard cinnamon sticks. If desired, remove cloves from syrup. Set syrup aside.
2Bring a large saucepan of water to boiling. Fill a large bowl with ice water. Carefully lower 2 or3 peaches into the boiling water for 30 to 60 seconds. Using a slotted spoon, transfer peaches from boiling water to the ice water. When peaches are cool enough to handle, remove and discard skins. Repeat with remaining peaches.
3Cut peaches in half. Remove and discard pits. Slice peaches. To prevent discoloration, place peach slices immediately into ascorbic-acid solution. Pack peach slices into hot, sterilized quart canning jars, leaving a ½-inch headspace.
4Return syrup to boiling. Ladle hot syrup into jars, covering peaches and maintaining the ½-inch headspace. Remove air bubbles. Wipe jar rims; adjust lids.
5Process filled jars in a boiling-water canner for 25 minutes (start timing when water returns to boiling). Remove jars from canner; cool on wire racks. Makes 5 quarts.
PER ¾ CUP: 127 cal., 0 g fat, 0 mg chol., 1 mg sodium, 32 g carbo., 2 g fiber, 1 g pro.
These buttery stone fruits deliciously adorn challah or brioche. Label the jars with directions to warm the nectarine mixture before serving—especially if you are giving them as gifts.
PREP: 45 minutes PROCESS: 15 minutes
½cup butter
½cup sugar
4pounds ripe nectarines, peeled if desired (see tip), pitted, and each cut into 8 wedges
½cup water
2tablespoons lemon juice
1teaspoon ground cinnamon
¼teaspoon ground nutmeg
¼teaspoon ground cloves
1In a 4- to 5-quart heavy pot combine butter and sugar; cook over medium heat for 5 to 8 minutes or until mixture begins to brown, stirring constantly. Add nectarine wedges to butter mixture, stirring to coat. Cook and stir about 4 minutes or just until nectarines begin to soften, gently stirring occasionally. Stir in the water, lemon juice, cinnamon, nutmeg, and cloves. Bring to boiling; boil for 1 minute. Remove from heat.
2Ladle hot mixture into hot, sterilized half-pint canning jars, evenly distributing nectarines and liquid and leaving a ¼-inch headspace. Wipe jar rims; adjust lids.
3Process filled jars in a boiling-water canner for 15 minutes (start timing when water returns to boiling). Remove jars from canner; cool on wire racks. Makes about 9 half-pints.
PER ¼ CUP: 54 cal., 3 g fat (2 g sat. fat), 7 mg chol., 18 mg sodium, 8 g carbo., 1 g fiber, 1 g pro.
Enjoy these radiantly-hued treats with roast pork at dinnertime or serve them alongside a breakfast strata for brunch.
PREP: 35 minutes STAND: 30 minutes PROCESS: 10 minutes
1cup white balsamic vinegar
½cup sweet vermouth
½cup honey
½cup water
23-inch sticks cinnamon, broken
6whole cloves
2pounds ripe apricots
1For syrup, in a medium stainless-steel, enamel, or nonstick heavy saucepan combine vinegar, vermouth, honey, the water, cinnamon, and cloves. Bring to boiling; reduce heat. Simmer, uncovered, for 5 minutes. Remove from heat; let stand for 30 minutes. Remove and discard cinnamon sticks and cloves.
2Fill a large saucepan with water; bring to boiling. Fill a large bowl with ice water. Carefully lower apricots into the boiling water for 30 to 60 seconds. Using a slotted spoon, transfer apricots from boiling water to ice water. When apricots are cool enough to handle, remove and discard skins.
3Cut each apricot in half and remove pit. Halve each apricot half. Pack apricot quarters into hot, sterilized half-pint canning jars, leaving a ½-inch headspace.
4Return syrup to boiling. Pour hot syrup over apricots to cover, maintaining the ½-inch headspace. Remove air bubbles. Wipe jar rims; adjust lids.
5Process filled jars in a boiling-water canner for 10 minutes (start timing when water returns to boiling). Remove jars from canner; cool on wire racks. Makes 5 half-pints.
PER ¼ CUP: 67 cal., 0 g fat, 0 mg chol., 4 mg sodium, 15 g carbo., 1 g fiber, 1 g pro.
Balsamic Pickled Plums: Prepare as directed above, except substitute dark balsamic vinegar for the white balsamic vinegar and substitute plums for the apricots. Do not peel the plums.
For little party appetizers, make cocktail rye sandwiches with a bit of cream cheese and this spicy condiment. Or complement baked ham or turkey breast with the chutney.
PREP: 40 minutes COOK: 15 minutes PROCESS: 10 minutes
1tablespoon vegetable oil
1cup chopped onion (1 large)
2teaspoons grated fresh ginger
4cloves garlic, minced
⅔cup sugar
½cup red wine vinegar
¼cup lemon juice
½teaspoon dry mustard
½teaspoon ground allspice
Dash ground cloves
3cups chopped, peeled ripe apricots (8 to 12 medium) (see tip)
¾cup snipped, pitted dates
1In a medium stainless-steel, enamel, or nonstick heavy saucepan heat oil over medium heat. Add onion, ginger, and garlic. Cook until onion is tender, stirring occasionally. Stir in sugar, vinegar, lemon juice, mustard, allspice, and cloves. Bring to boiling, stirring to dissolve sugar; reduce heat. Simmer, uncovered, for 5 minutes.
2Stir apricots and dates into the onion mixture. Return to boiling; reduce heat. Simmer, uncovered, for about 10 minutes or until mixture is thickened, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat.
3Ladle hot chutney into hot, sterilized half-pint canning jars, leaving a ½-inch headspace. Wipe jar rims; adjust lids.
4Process filled jars in a boiling-water canner for 10 minutes (start timing when water returns to boiling). Remove jars from canner; cool on wire racks. Makes 4 half-pints.
PER 2 TABLESPOONS: 39 cal., 0 g fat, 0 mg chol., 1 mg sodium, 9 g carbo., 1 g fiber, 0 g pro.
If you live far from stone-fruit territory, rely on your supermarket produce manager to let you know when crates of the luscious fruits arrive from California, Georgia, and Colorado’s West Slope. In general, apricots arrive from May to August.
These beauties are plumb dandy served with roast pork, barbecued shrimp, or Asian-inspired grilled chicken.
PREP: 35 minutes PROCESS: 5 minutes
3½pounds medium red, purple, and/or green plums (about 14)
2medium red onions
2cups water
2cups red wine vinegar
2½cups sugar
23- to 4-inch cinnamon sticks
8whole allspice
4whole cloves
2star anise
½teaspoon salt
1Wash plums. Cut the plums in half; pit. Remove root and stem ends from onions. Cut the onions in half lengthwise; cut into ½-inch-thick slices. Pack the plum halves and onion slices into hot, sterilized pint canning jars.
2In a large stainless-steel, enamel, or nonstick heavy saucepan combine the water and vinegar. Bring to boiling. Add sugar, cinnamon, allspice, cloves, star anise, and salt. Return to boiling, stirring until sugar dissolves. Remove from heat.
3Pour hot liquid over plums and onions in jars, leaving a ¼-inch headspace. Wipe jar rims; adjust lids.
4Process filled jars in a boiling-water canner for 5 minutes (start timing when water returns to boiling). Remove jars from canner; cool on wire racks. Makes 5 pints.
PER ½ CUP: 239 cal., 0 g total fat, 0 mg chol., 102 mg sodium, 59 g carbo., 2 g fiber, 1 g pro.
Here’s how to pick perfect plums: Look for fruit that yields to gentle pressure and that is free of blemishes. Good-quality plums will have rich color and will retain a slight whitish bloom, a sign that they have not been overhandled.
For a quick and easy appetizer, melt a bit of this sweet-spicy jam to use as a glaze on baked chicken wings.
PREP: 35 minutes PROCESS: 5 minutes
4pounds plums
½cup water
8cups sugar
11.75-ounce package regular powdered fruit pectin
2teaspoons freshly cracked black pepper
1Pit and finely chop plums (do not peel). In a 5- to 6-quart heavy pot combine plums and the water. Bring to boiling; reduce heat. Simmer, covered, for 5 minutes. Remove pot from heat. Measure 6 cups cooked plums; return to pot.
2Add sugar to plum mixture. Bring to a full rolling boil, stirring constantly. Quickly stir in pectin. Return to a full rolling boil, stirring constantly. Boil hard for 1 minute, stirring constantly. Remove from heat. Stir in pepper.
3Ladle hot jam into hot, sterilized half-pint canning jars, leaving a ¼-inch headspace. Wipe jar rims; adjust lids.
4Process filled jars in a boiling-water canner for 5 minutes (start timing when water returns to boiling). Remove jars from canner; cool on wire racks. Makes 10 half-pints.
PER TABLESPOON: 45 cal., 0 gl fat, 0 mg chol., 0 mg sodium, 12 g carbo., 0 g fiber, 0 g pro.
You can either buy cracked pepper in a jar or simply turn the knob on your pepper grinder to the loosest setting to make your own freshly cracked black pepper.
