Tempura’d Vegetables, Seafood or Even Fruit

Makes 4 servings

I’m not sure how authentic this tempura batter is, but I am sure that it’s terrific for everything from fish (think fish and chips) and seafood to vegetables and fruit. It produces a thin, crackle-crisp coating that gives us what we love in fried foods: contrast. This is the batter I use for Shrimp-Mousse Squash Blossoms (see photo, follows) and Pepper Poppers, but I use it more often for tempura’d vegetables, such as mushrooms, string beans and slender wedges of winter squash (pumpkin makes excellent tempura) or fruits like sliced apples, pears and bananas.

The batter gets its lightness from flour, cornstarch and a combination of leaveners: baking powder, baking soda and seltzer. It makes enough to coat 1 pound of vegetables, fish, seafood or fruit (18 to 20 small pieces).

As with everything fried, you need to eat the tempura as soon as it’s ready, so don’t drop in the first bit until you’ve gathered your group together.

• For the batter
• 5 tablespoons all-purpose flour
• 5 tablespoons cornstarch
• 1 teaspoon baking powder
• ½ teaspoon baking soda
• ½ teaspoon fine sea salt
• ½ cup (120 ml) seltzer, club soda or sparkling water
• For the dipping sauce
• ½ cup (120 ml) ponzu sauce
• 1 tablespoon (see Thai sweet chili sauce)
• Canola or peanut oil, for deep-frying
• Choose one of the following or mix and match, for a total of about 1 pound
• 1 pound (454 grams) firm vegetables, such as carrots, potatoes, celery root and/or winter squash, trimmed as necessary and sliced about ⅛ inch thick
• 1 pound (454 grams) softer vegetables, such as mushrooms, zucchini, onions and/or bell peppers, trimmed as necessary and sliced about ¼ inch thick
• 1 pound (454 grams) shrimp, shelled and deveined, or scallops, tough muscle removed
• 1 pound (454 grams) white fish fillets, cut into 2-inch pieces
• 1 pound (454 grams) fruit, such as pears, apples, pineapple and/or mango, trimmed as necessary and sliced about ½ inch thick

Working Ahead

You can prep the fruits, vegetables and/or fish a few hours ahead and keep them covered in the refrigerator. Take the chill off them by leaving them on the counter while you prepare the batter and bring the oil to temperature. It’s best to mix the batter at the last minute.

To make the batter: Whisk together the dry ingredients, then stir in the seltzer. You’ll have a smooth batter that’s the consistency of heavy cream.

To make the sauce: Mix the ponzu and chili sauce together in a small serving bowl.

To batter and fry: Have chopsticks or a fork and a slotted spoon or small strainer at hand. Line a plate with a double thickness of paper towels.

Pour enough oil into a medium saucepan to come 2 inches up the sides. Attach a deep-frying thermometer to the saucepan or have an instant-read one at hand. Heat the oil to 350 degrees F.

Drop a few pieces of whatever you’re cooking into the batter, stir them around gently to coat and lift them out (let the excess batter drip back into the bowl), then drop them into the hot oil — don’t crowd the pan. Allow the bits to fry, turning them as needed with chopsticks or a fork, until lightly golden on both sides, 1 to 1½ minutes. Lift them out of the oil with the slotted spoon or strainer, letting the excess oil drip back into the pan, and place them on the paper towels. Cover with more paper towels and blot away excess oil. Continue, always making certain that the oil comes back up to temperature before adding more bits.

Serve immediately, with the dipping sauce.