Makes 4 servings
I had always played to squash’s sweet side. But in a wild and crazy moment, when I opened the kitchen cabinet and saw pomegranate molasses (a delicious, oddly sour syrup) and za’atar (a seasoning mix based on thyme and oregano) not far away, I grabbed them. The result was wedges of roasted squash, its dense, naturally sweet flesh herb-accented from the za’atar and slightly tart from the molasses. And the skin — my favorite part — had spots of tasty char and, where the oil mixture had puddled, patches of bright flavor.
Working Ahead
The squash can be kept at room temperature for about 6 hours.
Center a rack in the oven and preheat it to 425 degrees F. Line a baking sheet with foil, a double layer of parchment paper or a silicone baking mat.
Scrub the squash well — you’re going to want to eat the skin. Cut each one in half from top to bottom, scoop out the seeds and strings (discard the seeds or clean and roast them) and cut each half into 4 wedges. Stand the wedges up on the baking sheet skin side down.
Whisk together the remaining ingredients except the fleur de sel and yogurt in a bowl or put them in a jar, cover and shake to blend. Taste and adjust the seasoning, if you’d like, keeping in mind that the sourness of the molasses won’t be as pronounced against the roasted squash. Brush some of the flavored oil over the wedges, moistening the flesh and leaving the skin as is.
Roast the wedges for 25 to 35 minutes, until they can be pierced easily with the tip of a paring knife.
(You can serve the squash now or allow it to cool until it is just warm or reaches room temperature.)
Sprinkle the squash with fleur de sel and, if you’d like, give each wedge a splash of lemon juice right before serving. The Harissa Yogurt is good with the squash no matter its temperature.
Storing: Leftover squash can be refrigerated, covered, for up to 2 days. Bring to room temperature or reheat before serving.
Choices: This squash is great mixed into salads, tossed into pasta or served alongside grilled meat or fish. It’s also nice on a bed of bitter greens with a drizzle of olive oil or a dollop of spiced yogurt.