Cornmeal-Buttermilk Loaf Cake, with or without Berries

Makes 8 servings

When you bake as much as I do, which is just about daily, it’s hard to have favorites, and harder to bake those favorites often. But I always find time for this cake. It’s one of the simplest, plainest cakes I make, and yet its appeal is so strong that it’s become a standard. It’s a great weekend cake — it’ll last the weekend and beyond; it’s a terrific cake to take anywhere as a host/house gift; and, if you’re like my husband and son, you’ll love the cake cut into thick slices and toasted. They slather it with butter — so unnecessary, but so good; I sometimes pile it with jam (also unnecessary).

The cornmeal in the batter adds a slight roughness to the texture and a beautiful sunny color, and the buttermilk moderates the sweetness and saves the cake from being too rich for breakfast. If you want, add the finely grated zest of a lemon, a lime or half an orange to the batter (rub the zest into the sugar before you beat in the eggs).

This recipe started its happy life as a skillet cake (recipe follows), and it’s still the version I make most often for brunch, cutting the cake into wedges and turning it into a kind of shortcake. But if you’re looking for portability, this loaf’s the way to go.

Center a rack in the oven and preheat it to 350 degrees F. Butter a 9-inch loaf pan, dust with flour and tap out the excess; or use baker’s spray.

Whisk together the flour, cornmeal, baking powder, baking soda and salt.

Whisk the eggs and sugar together in a large bowl until well blended, a minute or two. Whisk in the vanilla. Switch to a flexible spatula and gently stir in half of the dry ingredients. Blend in the buttermilk and then add the rest of the dry ingredients, mixing gently until fully incorporated. Gradually stir in the melted butter. It may look as if you’ve got more butter than the batter will absorb, but if you work slowly, gently and patiently, it will be just right. Carefully stir in the berries, if you’re using them. Scrape the batter into the pan, then smooth the top.

Bake the cake for 50 to 55 minutes, until the top is lightly browned (the center will crack, which is pretty) and, most important, a skewer inserted deep into the center of the cake comes out clean. Transfer the pan to a rack and let it sit for 5 minutes, then run a table knife between the cake and pan, turn the cake out onto a rack, invert onto another rack and cool to room temperature.

Storing: Wrapped in plastic, the cake will keep at room temperature for at least 3 days; if it stales, toast the slices. Wrapped airtight, the cake can be frozen for up to 2 months; defrost it in its wrapping.

 

Cornmeal Skillet Cake

Butter a 10-inch skillet or use baker’s spray. Make the batter, but don’t stir in the berries. Scrape the batter into the skillet and use a spatula to spread it evenly. Scatter over the berries, if using. Bake for 30 to 33 minutes, until the cake is golden brown, particularly around the edges, and starting to come away from the sides of the skillet; a skewer inserted into the center should come out clean. Transfer the cake to a rack and let cool. To serve, cut the cake into wedges. If you haven’t topped the cake with berries, you might want to slice each wedge in half horizontally, pile the bottom slice with whipped cream and berries and then lean the top slice against the cream and fruit to make a shortcake.

Cornmeal-Buttermilk Loaf Cake, with or without Berries