Explorer’s Guide New Mexico 3E

Rio Rancho, Bernalillo, Placitas, Corrales, Jemez Springs, Belen, Moriarty, Mountainair, Madrid, Cerrillos

The Rio Grande Valley surrounding Albuquerque is rich with intricate, timeworn overlays of Spanish and Native American history. Here, the markers of earliest Spanish settlements in New Mexico coexist with Native American pueblos (villages), arts, and ceremonies. The pulsating drumbeats of Native ceremonial dances resound along with the passionate song of flamenco dancers. Here, too, the homesteading communities of the Manzano Mountains endure through seasons of drought and development, as multi-generational ranches cling to their lands and their way of life. Future Farmers of America, 4-H, county fairs and Saturday riding displays teach youngsters appreciation of their culture. Winemaking in North America dates back to the 1620s and originates in New Mexico’s Sandoval County, where that practice continued in several local wineries and celebrated in numerous wine festivals throughout the state. Small farming still thrives in much of the region, with younger generations committing to organic living, while traditionalists practice the old ways, and farmers markets bursting with fresh local produce are crowded each summer, with growers proudly offering their vegetables, jams, salsas, garlic, and cheese.

This is a region fascinating for the rich cultural layers of vibrant history especially visible where trails converge. The Camino Real—the north–south colonial 1800 mile corridor of Royal Road between Mexico City and Santa Fe that follows the Rio Grande—and the original 1926 Route 66 north-south alignment as well as the post-1937 Route 66 east–west re-ordering of the roadway, have stories to tell. The traveler who takes time and pays attention may learn much by observing curving two-land roadways, architecture, roadside geography, and acequias (ditches) that channel water from the Rio Grande to flood fields of small farmsteads and native pueblos.

This is the land of the Turquoise Trail National Scenic Byway, the intriguing back road to Santa Fe that links the East Mountains to mining towns of Golden, Madrid, and Cerrillos, with turquoise so exquisite that Louis Tiffany incorporated it into his creations. To the west is the Jemez Mountain National Scenic Byway that courses through the glorious red rock country of Jemez Pueblo.

Although the Rio Grande Valley area has grown and urbanized during recent decades, values that characterize small-town life and independence, religious faith, and practices endure—sustained by generations that continue to live in the same place and follow many the same ways as did their ancestors. A few miles from the city, the area may seem like an outpost from the modern world, and it is tempting to imagine simpler times, even in the shadow of the metropolis.

The traveler will find an abundance of recreational opportunities in easy reach: snow sports, camping, golfing, hiking, fishing, and enjoyment of nature are accessible and essential to the way of life here. One need not even leave town to find in the metropolitan open spaces and Sandia foothills miles of hiking and biking trails. Distant horizons, ever-changing cloudscapes, dark skies, a winding river, and high desert mountains add up to natural beauty that fosters a respect for the planet and all its inhabitants.

The presence of a half-dozen Indian pueblos makes Bernalillo and Sandoval Counties unique. Here, ancient cultures continue to live and practice traditional ways transmitted across the generations for centuries. Visitors are welcome to attend designated feast days when tribal members offer a glimpse of their way of life. At the same time, many of these Indian tribes operate Las Vegas-style resorts offering luxurious dining, accommodations, big-name entertainment, and 24/7 gaming.

The spirit of this place is as strong as a lightning-struck cottonwood on a bosque river bank. It may be scarred, it may have broken limbs, but it has long weathered change and remains strong and deeply rooted in the acequia that nourishes its thick bark, profuse leaves, and multi-story branches. It has survived the severe changes brought by the seasons it has witnessed, and it endures as an essential part of the forest in which it dwells.

Mysteriously, no matter how much urbanization and gentrification may occur, the original and authentic character of New Mexico continues to assert itself. You may catch a whiff of that character in pinon woodsmoke and the flavor of homemade beans with tortillas, in the smell of rain in a sudden afternoon thunderstom and the changing light of a late winter afternoon that turns the mountains “watermelon” red. It is at once comforting and profound. Enjoy your stay, and may this place offer you a key to understanding its magic, that essence that makes it “The Land of Enchantment.”

WEST OF ALBUQUERQUE

GUIDANCE Corrales Visitor Center (505-897-0502, www.visitcorrales.com), 4324 Corrales Road, Corrales. Open Mon.–Fri. 8–5.

Rio Rancho Chamber of Commerce and Visitor Center (505-892-1533; www.rrchamber.org), 4001 Southern Boulevard SE, Rio Rancho. Open Mon.–Fri. 8–5.

Rio Rancho Convention and Visitors Bureau (888-746-7262 or 505-891-7258; www.rioranchonm.org), 3001 Civic Center Circle, Rio Rancho. Open Mon.–Fri. 8–5.

Sandoval County Visitor Center (800-252-0191 or 505-867-8687; www.sandovalcounty.gov), 264 Camino del Pueblo, Bernalillo.

Walatowa Visitor Center (575-834-7235), 7413 NM 4, Jemez Pueblo. Fifty-five miles northwest of Albuquerque on US 550, north on NM 4. Open daily 9–5.

GETTING THERE Please see “Getting There” here.

MEDICAL EMERGENCY Lovelace Westside Hospital (505-727-2000), 10501 Golf Course Road NW, Rio Rancho.

McLeod Medical Center (505-832-4434), 1108 US Rt. 66 W, Moriarty.

Durland Jean-Presbyterian Family Healthcare (505-864-5454), 609 Christopher Drive, Belen.

UNM Sandoval Regional Medical Center (505-994-7000), 3001 Broadmoor Boulevard NE, Rio Rancho.

University of New Mexico Hospital (505-272-2610), 2211 Lomas Boulevard NE, Albuquerque.

To See

TOWNS Bernalillo. One of the first areas settled by the Spanish, this ancient pueblo site—dating to 1300 AD and perhaps earlier—is where Coronado is said to have spent the winter of 1540-41. Distinctly Catholic, Bernalillo is inhabited by faithful descendants of Spanish families with a centuries-long presence in the area. Traditions, such as the 335 year-old mid-August mysterious Matachines dances performed annually in the streets in honor of the patron saint, San Lorenzo, involve much of the village in preparation and participation. Because of its proximity to Albuquerque but well on the way to Santa Fe Bernalillo is sprucing itself up bit by bit, refurbishing its buildings even as new condos and homes appear on the edges of town. Yoga studios, cafés, galleries, and boutiques now grace the main street, whose character remains steadfastly small-town and working-class. Just beyond that main street, snug little houses with carefully tended rosebushes remain enclaves of privacy.

images — THE MYSTERIOUS MATACHINES DANCES HAVE BEEN PERFORMED EVERY AUGUST ON SAN LORENZO DAY FOR NEARLY 350 YEARS IN BERNALILLO

Corrales. An agricultural community settled by Hispanic, French, Basque, and Italian farmers through the nineteenth and twentieth centuries, Corrales is an exclusive village of pricey homes and elegant horses, shaded by gracious old cottonwoods. The main street is lined with galleries featuring local artists and boutiques, a winery, and a microbrewery making this pretty town worth a prowl.

Jemez Springs. A tiny, picturesque community due north of Jemez Pueblo, this village almost adjacent to Jemez Pueblo is primarily dedicated to the service of tourists, with bed & breakfasts, vintage bathhouse and hot springs, a few galleries, cafés, and a notable bar.

Placitas. A bedroom community of both Albuquerque and Santa Fe, this town is populated mainly by those who prefer to stay off the beaten track, enjoy their 360-degree views and their privacy, and who can afford to do just that.

Rio Rancho. In the 1960s, Rio Rancho was inhabited largely by coyotes and rattlers with retirement acreage staked out, as well a small population of brave retirees from the East Coast hanging in there. Growth accelerated with the arrival of Intel, and Rio Rancho has for years remained New Mexico’s fastest-growing city. It boasts sophisticated medical facilities, college campuses, Cottonwood Shopping Mall, and nearly every chain store and restaurant found across America. There’s no need to cross the river for shopping or entertainment unless you absolutely must. It remains the area of greatest expansion, continuing its march of sprawling development westward across the desert toward the Rio Puerco and attracts many retirees.

HISTORIC LANDMARKS, PLACES, AND SITES Coronado State Monument (505-867-5351), 485 Kuaua Road, I-25 exit 242, US 550 west 1.7 miles. Wed.–Mon. 8:30–5. Closed Tuesdays. The visitor center and small museum, designed by Santa Fe–style architect John Gaw Meem, houses the restored kiva paintings of Kuaua, circa 1300 AD, which exude a kind of sacredness and grant insight into the roots of Native American art. Walk the grounds of pueblo ruins on the 0.2-mile self-guided trail. Take in the panoramic view overlooking the Rio Grande and Sandias, especially impressive at sunset when the mountains turn watermelon red, and imagine yourself as one of the conquistadors, among the first Europeans to make contact with the New World, said to have spent the winter of 1540-41 on this spot. The shaded ramada-covered tables are perfect for a picnic anytime. But the centerpiece is the original painted kiva, accessible by ladder. $5; free to NM residents first Sun. of the month; Wed. free for seniors 65 and older. Call for RV and camping availability.

Jemez State Monument (575-829-3530), 43 miles north of Bernalillo, NM 4, 1 mile north of Jemez Springs. Open daily Wed.–Mon. 8:30–5. Closed Tuesdays. Dramatic ruins of fourteenth-century Towa pueblo and Spanish mission ruins of the church of San José de los Jémez dates to the seventeenth century. $5, age 16 and under free.

Petroglyph National Monument (505-899-0205), 6005 Unser Boulevard, NW Rio Rancho. West from Albuquerque on I-40 to exit 154, north 3 miles to Western Trail, go left and follow the signs. Open daily 8–5. Closed Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year’s Day. From the Unser Boulevard Visitor Center, get maps to the prehistoric rock art trails on West Mesa volcanic escarpment. The monument has over 20,000 examples of indigenous rock art, including animals, birds, insects, and geometric designs, such as the spiral. This is a sacred Native American landscape. Trails are a short drive from the visitor center. Boca Negra Canyon is 2 miles north of the visitor center and has three self-guided trails. All are easy walks. Bring water, stay on trails, keep pets leashed, and beware of rattlesnakes. $1 weekdays, $2 weekends.

San Ysidro Church (505-898-1779), 5005 Corrales Road, Corrales. Call for hours. This lovingly restored 1875 village church with twin bell towers and pitched tin roof serves as a venue for community events, acoustic and chamber music concerts, lectures, and festivals. The Corrales Historic Society cares for this treasure.

Soda Dam (no phone). Two miles north of Jemez Springs on NM 4 is an inspiring and photogenic 300-foot natural dam formed by the accretion of mineral deposits.

MUSEUMS Casa San Ysidro: Gutierrez/Minge House (505-898-3915), 973 Old Church Road, Corrales. Open Tues.–Sat. July–August; Tues.–Sat. February–May and September–November 9:30–2:30; closed December–January. Reservations required for tours which are customarily at 10:30 AM, noon, and 1:30 PM As a branch of the Albuquerque Museum, the Gutiérrez/Minge Casa houses rare and exquisite New Mexican rugs, textiles, furniture, and art. The Ward Alan Minge family painstakingly and authentically restored this eighteenth- to nineteenth-century rancho, down to matching the original wall colors, as a labor of love. $4 adults, $3 seniors, $2 children.

DeLavy House schsinfo@sandcohist.fatcow.com, 151 Edmond Road, Bernalillo, west of Coronado State Monument and east of Santa Ana Star Casino off NM 550. Watch closely the north side of US 550 for the Sandoval County Historical Society sign. The former home of local artist Edmond DeLavy, now the home of the historical society and its archives and photo collection, this is often the site of lectures and community meetings, including the Sandoval County Historical Society.

J & R Vintage Auto Museum and Bookstore (1-888-298-1885), 3650A NM 528, a half-mile south of US 550, Rio Rancho. Open Mon.–Sat. 10–6. Closed Sundays. Founder Gab Joiner was a vintage car collector and restorer whose collection just got too big to store at home. Now his family runs the museum. The more than sixty restored classic cars and trucks on display, including Packards, Buick Roadsters, and so many more, are all for sale. There’s a huge gift shop with die-cast toys, books, and memorabilia. If you don’t have an auto nut in your clan, you may have to become one yourself when you see this. $6 adults, $5 seniors, $3 children ages 6–12, under age 6 free.

EAST OF ALBUQUERQUE

GUIDANCE Belen Chamber of Commerce/Visitor Center (505-864-8091; www.belenchamber.org), 712 Dalies Avenue, Belen.

East Mountain Chamber of Commerce (505-281-1999; www.eastmountainchamber.com) 12129 NM 14, North Suite B, Cedar Crest.

Mountainair Chamber of Commerce (505-847-3470; www.discovermountainairnm.com), 100 Main Street W, Mountainair.

Turquoise Trail Association (505-281-5233; www.turquoisetrail.org).

Valencia County Chamber of Commerce (505-352-3596; www.newmexico.org/valencia-county-chamber-of-commerce), 3447 Lambros Loop, Los Lunas. Open Mon.–Fri. 8–5.

To See

TOWNS Belen is a town that grew up with the railroad, and it still serves as a switching station for as many as 300 Burlington Northern Santa Fe trains every day. The main attraction here is the Belen Harvey House Museum beside the railroad tracks.

Cerrillos. Mining town, abandoned western film set, ghost town—Cerrillos melds these identities into a place so quiet it is almost spooky, yet it has its own irresistible allure for artists, photographers, and wanderers. The streets, where the only being you are likely to see is a lazy dog parked in the road, seem about to reveal their secrets any moment. For conversation, walk into Mary’s Bar, where you are likely to find the locals and old-timers. The new Cerrillos Station serves as a community center and gathering spot with shops and spa.

Madrid. Through its incarnations as a twentieth-century coal mining town, an abandoned ghost town that was once entirely for sale, and, from the 1970s onward, a magnet for hippies and artists who moved into the abandoned miners’ homes and subsequently turned them into pricey real estate, galleries, and cafés, Madrid makes an enjoyable and worthwhile stop along the Turquoise Trail. The more than thirty art galleries are lively and varied. It has always been known for its especially lovely Christmas lights. Oscar Huber Memorial Ball Park remains as the first lighted ballpark in the state and possibly the nation, built in 1920 for the Madrid Miners, a AA minor league team.

Moriarty. Contrary to popular legend, there is no relationship between the name of this town and a character created by Arthur Conan Doyle, though the Sherlock Holmes Society did gather here annually. This crossroads town, once the supply center for Estancia Valley dry land farmers, retains its Route 66 character in its main street architecture. It was named for Michael Moriarty, a young health-seeker from Iowa who arrived in 1887 and found relief for his rheumatism under the sunny skies. Corn, alfalfa, pinto beans, and pumpkins are grown nearby. The town is justly proud of its refurbished Route 66 neon Whiting Bros. sign.

Mountainair, formerly “the pinto bean capital of the world,” located along US 60, the “slow road” or two-lane across New Mexico, is the geographic center of the state. As the headquarters of the Salinas Pueblos National Monument, Mountainair harkens back to its homesteading and ranching roots. New waves of artists and retirees continue to move here and call it home. Some of New Mexico’s most interesting folk art, created by jack-of-all-trades Pop Shafter in the early twentieth century, is in the Shafter Hotel. While the hotel is now closed, his masterwork stone embellished gate can still be seen (pictured here).

HISTORIC LANDMARKS, PLACES, AND SITES J. W. Eaves Movie Ranch (505-474-3045; www.eavesmovieranch.com), 14 miles from Santa Fe via NM 14, west on NM 45, 75 Rancho Alegre Road, Santa Fe. Call for hours. If this movie set looks familiar, don’t be surprised. Many gunfights have been staged here, so you’ve likely seen the place in a western or two. Daily tours, parties, and events are offered, and large groups may book staged gunfights.

Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument (505-761-8700), I-25 north, exit 259, follow signs to Forest Road 266. Open daily March 11–October 31, 7–7; November 1–March 10, 8–5. Gates close one hour earlier. Co-managed by BLM and Cochiti Pueblo. Hike the hoodoos, the cone-like wind-sculpted sandstone structures unique in New Mexico. These magical-looking rock formations resemble gigantic sand castles from a fantasy tale. The 2-mile Cave Loop Trail is easy, while the steep 1.5-mile Slot Canyon Trail is rated difficult. $5 per vehicle.

Mystery Rock, west of Los Lunas on NM 6 about 15 miles at the base of Mystery Mountain. One of the area’s most curious “unsolved mysteries,” this rock with the Ten Commandments carved into it has long been a source of intrigue. Who put it here? No one knows for sure. Stout shoes and good knees are required for the short scramble to view the rock close up.

Salinas Pueblo Missions National Monument Main Street, Mountainair. (505-847-2585). Closed Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year’s Day. This monument is made up of three separate pueblo ruins located within a 50-mile radius on the Salt Mission Trail, with impressive ruins of Spanish mission churches built on these sites in the early seventeenth century. Once populous, these sites, located on trade routes, were abandoned over time due to severe drought. Each site has specific hours Abo, Gran Quivira and Quarai. Ranger’s office in Mountainair. Free.

Sandia Peak Tramway (505-856-7325; www.sandiapeak.com), 10 Tramway Loop, NE, Albuquerque. From I-25, exit 234 at Tramway Road, follow it east 6 miles to Sandia Peak Tramway. Open Memorial Day–Labor Day 9–9, Labor Day–Memorial Day 9–8, Tues. 5–9 PM, Balloon Fiesta first two weeks in October, 9–9. Billed as “the world’s longest aerial tramway,” a ride, or flight as it is called, carries visitors in a dramatic ride from the desert to the crest of the mountain for 2.7 miles through four of the earth’s six biozones and astounding views of the rugged mountainside, its rocky outcroppings, and canyons. At 9,600 feet, be prepared for high altitude. Atop the crest is the Four Seasons Visitor Center, open May–November, as well as restaurant and gift shop. $25 adults, $20 seniors, teens ages 13–20, and military; $15 children ages 5–12, under age 5 free.

Tome Hill (no phone). From Albuquerque, go south on NM 47; pass Peralta and Los Lunas, then left on Tome Hill Road to Tome Hill. This landform is a Camino Real landmark and Good Friday pilgrimage site. Witness New Mexico’s Calvario, as marked by crosses on top of the hill. The main path to the top, the South Trail, begins at Tome Hill Park at the intersection of La Entrada—the sculpture designating the three cultures, Native, Spanish, and homesteader, who have resided here—and the Rio del Oro Loop Roads. The climb is steep and strenuous.

MUSEUMS Belen Harvey House Museum (505-861-0581), 104 N. 1st Street, Belen. Open Tues.–Fri.12–5; Sat. 10–5. Closed Sundays and Mondays, major holidays. Sitting beside the railroad tracks, this museum was originally a Fred Harvey Co. dining room, from 1908 to 1939. The collections relate to the history of the area and primarily to Santa Fe railroad history. Anyone interested in Fred Harvey and the history of the Harvey Girls will find this especially interesting. Free.

Los Lunas Museum of Heritage & Arts (505-352-7720), 251 Main Street SE, Los Lunas. Open Tues.–Sat. 10–5. Closed Sundays and Mondays. This recently opened museum concentrates on the heritage and families of the region, with exhibits on founding families, Civil War in New Mexico, educational exhibits for teachers, oral histories, and a Genealogy Resource Center. A rich digitalized archive. Free.

Old Coal Mine Museum (505-473-0743), 2846 NM 14, Madrid. Open daily, 11–4:30 April–October. Winter hours Sat.–Sun. only. Located on 3 acres filled with vintage vehicles and other remnants of the days when this was a working coal mining town, the museum itself houses Engine 767, the most complete non-operating steam locomotive in the United States. Also on view are the coal mineshaft and original mining headquarters. Refurbished in 2012. $5 adults, $3 seniors and children.

images Tinkertown Museum (505-281-5233; www.tinkertown.com), 121 Sandia Crest Road, Sandia Park. I-40 east, exit north at exit 175, NM 14 north 6 miles, left on NM 536. Tinkertown is 1.5 miles on your left. Open daily April 1–October 31, 9–6. There’s no other museum like this. “I did all this while you were watching TV,” folk artist Ross Ward said of his carving, which amounts to a 22-room collection of miniature animated scenes of Americana. Prediction: In years to come, this environmental folk artist and his work will be discovered and acclaimed as simply amazing. The book by his daughter, Tanya Ward Goodman, called Leaving Tinkertown, has done a great deal to spotlight this hidden gem. $3.75 adults, $3.25 seniors, $1.25 children ages 4–16, under age 4 free.

US Southwest Soaring Museum (505-832-0755; www.swsoaringmuseum.org), 918 E. Old Highway 66, Moriarty. Exit 197 from I-40, 30 miles east of Albuquerque. Open May–October Mon.–Sat. 9–4; November–April Mon.–Wed. 9–3. Antique sailplanes, hang gliders, and a history of soaring from the 1920s to the present make this an interesting stop. The collection of ninety-six model gliders in miniature is most appealing. Call for admission prices.

WEST AND EAST OF ALBUQUERQUE

To Do

BICYCLING Manzano Meander (no phone) is a 55-mile round-trip from Four Hills Shopping Center in Albuquerque over NM 333 (Route 66), 7 miles to Tijeras. At the intersection of NM 337 go right up to Cedro Canyon, the roughest part of the trip, then coast down to Chilili, an old Spanish land grant village. Be careful, though, because there isn’t much in the way of shoulder along NM 337.

Straight and Easy (no phone) is a perfectly good workout on a perfectly flat road from Moriarty south on NM 41 to Estancia 17 miles, or if you are feeling strong, you can pedal all the way to Willard for another 13 miles. You’ll find lots of big skies, fields, and farms along the way.

BIRDING See Manzano Mountains State Park, under Green Space.

Corrales Bosque Preserve (505-350-3955). Birding, hiking, horseback riding, and walking along a quiet and unspoiled stretch of dirt trails shaded by giant cottonwoods along the Rio Grande. Free.

BOATING Cochiti Lake. See “Wind Surfing.”

FARMERS’ MARKETS Bernalillo Farmers’ Market (505-867-2485), 282 Camino del Pueblo, Bernalillo. Open July 6–October 26, Fri. 4–7. It’s likely you will encounter growers from San Felipe Pueblo at this market.

Cedar Crest Farmers & Arts Market (505-514-6981), Mountain Christian Church, N. NM 14, Cedar Crest. Open June 27–October 15, Wed. 3–6. Get there early for the best selection.

Corrales Growers’ Market (505-898-6336), next to the post office on Corrales Road, Corrales. Open April 22–October 28, Sun. 9–noon, Wed. 3–6. Sundays only September–November A bustling lively market with the highest quality, and priciest, produce. Neighbors meet up here over coffee and breakfast burritos. Out-of-this-world baked goods. Impossible to decide amongst the goodies.

FISHING Isleta Lakes & RV Park (505-244-8102), 13 miles south of Albuquerque on I-25, exit 215, 11000 Broadway SE. Fish peacefully from the shores of two beautiful lakes. Open daily October–March 7–5; April–September 6–7:30. Lakes stocked with channel catfish in warm weather and rainbow trout in fall and winter. There are also fifty full-service RV hookups; $37.10 per night. New Mexico fishing license not required. Limit five fish per adult. $16 age 12 and above, $9 under age 12.

Sandia Lakes Recreation Area (505-771-5190), 76 Sandia Lakes Road, Sandia Pueblo. Three lakes here are stocked with rainbow trout during the cooler months and channel catfish during the summer. One lake is strictly catch-and-release. Twenty acres of water on 56 acres of bosque forest. New Mexico fishing license is not required. 7–7; October 1–March 31, Wed.–Sun. 7–5. Closed Mondays and Tuesdays. $20, $12 children, $3 visitors, $1 child visitors.

images Shady Lakes (505-898-2568), 11033 4th Street NW, Albuquerque. Take I-25, exit Tramway Boulevard to NM 313 for 2 miles. The place known as Shady Lakes is a pleasant area with small lakes that in summer are covered with water lilies and can, for a small fee, provide every child with the opportunity to catch a fish. New Mexico fishing license is not required. As of this writing the property is for sale and it is not known if it will remain open. Mid-April–mid-August, open daily, 8–6; February weekends only 10–5; March–mid-April, 10–5. $7.95, children $5.95, visitors $3.95. Trout charge per inch $7 average cost per fish.

Zia Lake (505-867-3304), Zia Pueblo, south of San Ysidro on US 550. A tribal permit is required to fish here for bass, catfish, and trout. Gas motors are not allowed.

GOLF Chamisa Hills Country Club (505-896-5000), 500 Country Club Drive SE, Rio Rancho. Rio Rancho 1 and Rio Rancho 2 courses, designed by Lee Trevino, provide a total of 27 holes for all skill levels. $20–28.

Isleta Eagle Golf Club (505-869-0950), 13 miles south of Albuquerque, exit 215, 4001 NM 47 SE. Open daily. This 27-hole native desert–style course offers play around three scenic lakes and the Rio Grande. Fees for 18 holes, including cart, $50–65.

Santa Ana Golf Course (505-867-9464), 288 Prairie Star Road, Santa Ana Pueblo, is the naturally landscaped sister course of Twin Warriors. Golf around eight crystal-blue lakes, framed by three mountain ranges. $37–59.

Twin Warriors Golf Course (505-771-6155), Hyatt Tamaya Resort, 1300 Tuyuna Trail, Santa Ana Pueblo. March–October, open daily. November–February, closed Tuesdays. This is the ultimate, an 18-hole high desert championship Guy Panks–designed course where play takes place around twenty ancient cultural sites. The setting provides a truly magical experience. Rates vary by season. Please call club or book online.

HIKING Battleship Rock, along the Jemez Mountain Trail, is an easy 2-mile, extremely popular hike to the river, accessed at Battleship Rock turnout on NM 4, 5 miles north of Jemez Springs.

NATIVE AMERICAN PUEBLOS

For the most up-to-date information on pueblo dances and feast days, contact the Indian Pueblo Cultural Center (505-843-7270; www.indianpueblo.org). Christmas Eve Midnight Mass, Christmas Day, New Year’s Day, King’s Day (January 6), Easter, and Thanksgiving, as well as patron saints days of each pueblo, are customary times for dances to be performed, and the public is welcome.

Cochiti Pueblo (505-465-2244), population about 800, is due south of Santa Fe off I-25 and overlooks the Rio Grande. Storyteller pottery figures originated here with Cochiti potter Helen Cordero, and drums are another specialty of the pueblo. Feast day: July 14.

Isleta Pueblo (505-869-3111). From Albuquerque, I-25 south to exit 215 or take NM 47 to intersection with NM 147, go left, cross the river to the pueblo. While you can drive through the pueblo and visit the historic Church of San Augustine and buy oven bread, roasted blue cornmeal, and chile from various homes with signs offering them for sale, Isleta (which means “little island”) also offers the sophisticated side of golfing, gaming, nightlife, and dining, as well as family-friendly camping and fishing facilities. Feast days: January 6, August 28, September 4.

Jemez Pueblo (575-834-7235), 7413 NM 4, Pueblo of Jemez. Go fifty-five miles northwest of Albuquerque, north to US 550 then to San Ysidro, north on NM 4. Feast days: November 12, December 12, Christmas Day, New Year’s Day, January 6, Easter. See Walatowa Visitor Center, under “Guidance.” For authentic dances, the opportunity to purchase fine pottery from the makers, and a warm welcome, Jemez Pueblo makes a wonderful introduction to the Native way of life.

Sandia Pueblo (505-867-3317), 12 miles north of Albuquerque off I-25. Perhaps best known for its business enterprises, this pueblo of approximately 4,000 people has entered the twenty-first century with panache and now operates the grand Sandia Resort & Casino (open 24 hours) with several restaurants, including fine dining, a high-end spa, the Bien Mur Indian Market Center (where pottery and fine hand-crafted jewelry are sold), and Sandia Lakes Recreation Area. It is also the site of community events such as the annual Fiery Foods and Barbeque Festival held in early March. Feast days: January 6, June 13.

San Felipe Pueblo (505-867-3381) is known for its annual Corn Dance on May 1, a celebration that includes the sale of food, pottery, and jewelry, but perhaps better known for its Casino Hollywood, only 32 miles north of Albuquerque at exit 252 off I-25. Feast day: May 1.

Santa Ana Pueblo (505-867-3301). The ancient site of this Keresan village along the Jemez River is reserved for ceremonial functions and open to visitors only during certain annual celebrations. Today, the pueblo is known for its various enterprises, including the magnificent Hyatt Tamaya Resort & Spa and the Santa Ana Star Casino west of Bernalillo on US 550. Feast days: June 29, July 26.

Santo Domingo Pueblo (505-465-2214) holds a complex and moving Corn Dance each year on August 4. Artist Georgia O’Keeffe is quoted as saying that witnessing the Corn Dance was one of the great experiences of her life. Several hundred dancers moving rhythmically on the plaza, the sounds of their shells and bells, and the drums and singing, make this an unforgettable event. A big carnival of wares from all over (but be sure what you are buying is authentic and handmade—if the price is too good to be true, it probably isn’t) and native foods makes this a fine day to be here. As of this writing, the restored Santo Domingo Trading Post is scheduled to re-open soon. Feast day: August 4.

Zia Pueblo (505-867-3304), a village of about 700 off US 550 about 15 miles west of Bernalillo, gave New Mexico its symbol, the Zia sun sign. The village was abandoned and then repopulated after the nineteenth century. Many of those who live here are superb potters and painters. Feast day: August 15.

Las Conchas Trail provides moderate forested hiking along the East Fork of the Jemez River Accessible and popular trail.

Red Canyon/Ox Canyon Trail, Manzano Mountains. This moderate 5.5-mile trail through Red Canyon is easily accessed. Go left in the town of Manzano along NM 337. The shady trail, good for mountain biking, too, is populated with alligator junipers and New Mexico swallowtail butterflies in summer. Another favorite area hike, very do-able.

Sandia Crest Trail, Sandia Mountains. This 27-mile trail along the top, with panoramic views, is easy to moderate. Sandia Peak provides a convenient access point. Take the tram to reach the trailhead.

10K Trail, Cedar Crest. Take NM 536, the Crest Road, to the trailhead, to access this moderate 7-mile hike along a 10,000-foot contour.

Tree Springs Trail, I-40 to NM 14 (exit 175), go north, take NM 536, the Crest Road, is one of the prettiest hikes on the east side of the Sandias, with wild primroses blooming May–June and a green, wildflower-filled landscape completely different from the desert vegetation of the west side of the mountain. It’s a moderate 3-mile climb to the top, where you can connect with the Sandia Crest Trail. $3.

HORSEBACK RIDING The Stables at Tamaya (505-771-6180), Hyatt Regency Tamaya Resort & Spa, 1300 Tuyuna Trail, Santa Ana. A unique way to experience Pueblo backcountry is with experienced native instructors and trail guides. Journey peacefully on horseback through cottonwoods along the Rio Grande and Jemez rivers on twice-daily trail rides. Over half these gentle horses are rescues. Carriage rides, pony rides, and riding lessons are also available. Non–resort guests are welcome. Reservations required. $100 individual; $75 each in a group.

HOT SPRINGS Jemez Hot Springs, Home of the Giggling Springs (575-829-9175), 40 Abousleman Loop, Jemez Springs. Open Wed.–Mon., closed Tuesdays. 11–7; 11–6 winter. This serene spot across the road from the Laughing Lizard has expanded and modernized. They have also upped prices. Full day pass $100; half-day pass $75. One hour soak $25; 2 hour soak $40.

Jemez Springs Bath House (575-829-3303, 62 Jemez Springs Plaza, Jemez Springs. 10–7 daily. Owned and operated by the village of Jemez Springs. Built from 1870 to 1878, this quaint bathhouse and gift shop is fed by a rich mineralized spring and retains its Victorian sensibility. Individual private soaking tubs, massage and spa treatments available. $12 for 25-minute bathtub soak; $18 per 50 minute soak.

MOUNTAIN BIKING See Las Huertas Canyon, under Green Space, for a creek side moderate to difficult ride toward the Sandias, and Red Canyon, under “Hiking,” in the Manzano Mountains is a favorite moderate 5.5-mile trail ride.

Also see Turquoise Trail, under “Scenic Drives,” and East Fork of the Jemez, under “Snow Sports—Cross-Country Skiing,” plus Petroglyph National Monument (see “Historic Landmarks, Places, and Sites”) offers easy packed dirt cruises.

See Sandia Peak Ski Area, under “Snow Sports—Downhill Skiing.” Lift open June 2–Labor Day. In summer, bring your bike up the mountain on the tram and find 30 miles of easy, moderate, and difficult trails graded like ski runs. You can ride the chairlift at the ski area to King of the Mountain, a black diamond (or difficult) trail, to Golden Eagle, marked green (or moderate), and descend King of the Mountain for a trail marked blue (or easy). Rentals are available top and bottom of the lift.

Corrales Rio Grande Bosque makes a delightful, easy, mostly level ride, or walk, for 12 miles. Follow NM 425 (Corrales Road) through Corrales; at Mockingbird Lane go left until you reach the bosque.

SCENIC DRIVES For more information on NM Scenic Byways, call 800-733-6396, ext. 24371.

Abo Pass Trail connects the Salt Missions Trail and the Camino Real for 31 miles along NM 47 and US 60. It is a journey through big open skies and the empty loneliness of the Old—and older—West, and a time to speculate how life used to be. You can imagine riding it on horseback or by wagon and appreciate the modern comforts of air-conditioning and motorized vehicles.

Corrales Road. The pretty two-lane, 6.7-mile road that winds along NM 448 through the Village of Corrales shows off the beauty of this rural community squeezed between busy Rio Rancho and Albuquerque (be sure to drive slowly, to savor the view and to avoid a ticket). Fruit orchards, horses grazing beside adobe homes, and expansive views of the Sandia Mountains speak of a less-harried time and insist you slow down, if only just to get a good look.

Jemez Mountain Trail National Scenic Byway. From Albuquerque, the length of this trail runs 163 miles. Take I-25 north to US 550, go northwest on 550 to San Ysidro, then right on NM 4. Along the way take in the Walatowa Visitor Center—where across the road and beneath the red rocks, ladies may be selling bowls of chile, Indian tacos, and oven pies—Pueblo of Jemez; Jemez Springs; Jemez State Monument; past Battleship Rock, Soda Dam, and La Cueva; past the Valle Caldera, Bandelier National Monument, and on into Los Alamos. This is a worthwhile way to see a vast amount in one day. You can loop back around to Albuquerque via Santa Fe on I-25 for a quicker return trip. Note: Fill up before you leave. There is no reliable gas station on NM 4 until you get to White Rock.

Salt Missions Trail. From Albuquerque, take I-40 east to Moriarty, south on NM 333 at Moriarty, follow NM 41, US 60, NM 513, 55, 337, and 131 for a total of 140 miles to travel the entire length of the trail and see all three ruins: Abo, Quarai, and Gran Quivira, with their Indian pueblos and 17th-century Franciscan mission churches, through the Manzano and Cibola National Forests en route. Abo is 9 miles west of Mountainair on US 60, and Quarai is 8 miles north of Mountainair on NM 55. Gran Quivira is a longer drive, 39 miles south of Mountainair on NM 55. Check at Ranger Station in Mountinair before proceeding to Gan Quivira.

Sandia Crest Scenic Byway. Take I-40 east to Tijeras exit, north on NM 14, then to Sandia Crest on NM 536 for 13.6 miles. The drive up is beautiful and green, with many marked hiking trails along the way, but once at the top of the crest, you can see 100 miles in all directions. This is a favorite destination of first-time visitors, where friends and relatives introduce them to Albuquerque. Over a half-million people drive to the 10,687-foot crest annually, and another quarter-million ride the Sandia Tramway.

Turquoise Trail National Scenic Byway is the back road between Albuquerque and Santa Fe. Take I-25 to the Cedar Crest exit, go north on NM 536, then follow NM 14 for 48 miles through mining ghost towns of Golden and Madrid, now a lively, much-gentrified arts town rather than a ghost town or hippie hangout, and Cerrillos, then on into Santa Fe. The route gets its name from local turquoise mines. The serpentine, up-and-down two-lane carries you past the Ortiz Mountains to the right, with views of the Sangre de Cristos up ahead and the Jemez Mountains to the left. Allow a good day to take your time and explore and shoot photos, perhaps have dinner in Santa Fe, then loop back down I-25 to Albuquerque.

SNOW SPORTS—CROSS-COUNTRY SKIING La Cueva (800-252-0191). Take NM 4 east for Redondo Campground, Los Griegos area, and west of La Cueva on NM 126 and Valle San Antonio Road to Upper San Antonio Canyon.

East Fork of the Jemez River is mostly level through the Santa Fe National Forest, with abundant ponderosa pine and the glorious silence of a landscape in deep winter. You’ll find the trailhead 10 miles north of La Cueva. This trail is also mountain bike-friendly.

SNOW SPORTS—SLEDDING Capulin Snow Play Area. From eastbound Interstate 40, take Exit 175 at the Tijeras/Cedar Crest exit. Keep left and take the Cedar Crest exit to N.M. Highway 14. Drive north on N.M. 14 for approximately 6½ miles to N.M. Highway 536. Turn left onto N.M. 536. The Capulin area is approximately 8 miles up N.M. 536, about 1½ miles past the Sandia Peak Ski area. The Capulin entrance is on your right. If the gate is locked, site is closed. Other rules: no trains; only two people per tube, disc or plastic sled; no making or using jumps; no glass or alcohol; and keep pets on a leash and under control. The sledding area, located on state Highway 536, is unsupervised. It’s the only designated sledding and tubing area in the Sandias. It costs $3 per vehicle to enter the Capulin area, and people can pay—cash or check only—at the pay station. Vans and buses carrying fifteen or more passengers pay only $10 per day. An annual Sandia Ranger District Amenity Pass, priced at $30, will also get you into the Capulin Snow Play Area. Passes are available during regular business hours at: Sandia Ranger Station, 11776 N.M. Highway 337 in Tijeras; Cibola supervisor’s office, 2113 Osuna Road NE in Albuquerque, and REI, 1550 Mercantile Avenue NE.

SNOW SPORTS—DOWNHILL SKIING Sandia Peak Ski Area (505-242-9052). Take I-40 east to Cedar Crest exit 175, north on NM 14, left on NM 536 for 6 miles to ski area. Or take the Sandia Peak Ariel Tram at 30 Tramway Loop NE, Albuquerque. Open daily, depending on weather, December 16–January 6, 9–4; Wed.–Sun. and holidays January 10–March 11, 9–4. Thirty trails are serviced by four chairlifts. The area has a children’s lift, some of the longest cruising terrain in the state, snow sports school, ski rental shop, and café. Skiers and snowboarders need to rent equipment at the base if taking the tram, or drive up. There are no rentals at the lift. $55 all-day lift; $65 tram and lift.

SPAS Green Reed Spa (505-798-3980), Sandia Resort & Casino, 30 Rainbow Road, Albuquerque. Total pampering waits in this full-service spa amid the soothing sounds of waterfalls, with body treatments that incorporate indigenous high desert botanicals. Luxe plus.

Tamaya Mist Spa & Salon (505-771-6134), Hyatt Regency Tamaya, 1300 Tuyuna Trail. Inspired by the prehistoric journey of their people, the spa offers various pathways to rejuvenation and healing through salt scrubs, herbal wraps, expert massage, and facials. Incomparable though pricey.

WIND SURFING Cochiti Lake (505-465-2421). Sixty miles north of Albuquerque, west of I-25 at Santo Domingo exit. Wind surfing on this no-wake lake with swimming beach, paved boat ramp, and campground is popular April–October.

WINERIES Anasazi Fields Winery (505-867-3062), 26 Camino de Pueblitos Road at the western edge of Placitas. Open Sundays noon–5. This winery has made a name for itself by featuring dry, not sweet, fruit wines of apricot, peach, plum, wild cherry, and New Mexico raspberry.

Corrales Winery (505-898-5165), 6275 Corrales Road, Corrales. Tasting room open Wed.–Sun. noon–5. Specializing in producing unique flavors of small-batch New Mexico wines grown from New Mexico grapes, this winery is set beside its own vineyard with knockout views of the Sandias and flocks of sandhill cranes in winter. Especially recommended is its Muscat Canelli dessert wine, but the drier reds are superb. A lovely place to spend a weekend afternoon.

Milagro Vineyards (505-898-3998), 125 Old Church Road, Corrales. Tours of vineyards and winery, as well as tasting room hours by appointment only. Call for monthly events. “Handcrafted Vine to Wine” is the slogan of this boutique winery, dedicated to making wine from grapes grown in New Mexico. Small quantities of Merlot, Zinfandel, and Chardonnay are aged in French oak.

Casa Abril Vineyards, Winery & Tasting Room (505-771-0208) 1 Camino Abril, Algodones. Thurs.–Sun. 12–5. Proud descendants of two Spanish families produce Tempranillo, Malbec, Zinfandel and Tempranillo Rose, while native roadrunners frolic in the vineyards. A delightful stop with excellent wines to offer.

Green Space

Cibola National Forest and Grasslands (505-346-6803). Six developed campgrounds and 100 miles of hiking and horse trails are found, mainly in the Manzano Mountains, within an hour to a two-and-a-half-hour drive from Albuquerque, east on I-40, and south at Tijeras exit. Two of the most popular camping areas are at Tajique, and Fourth of July Canyon is famous for its flaming red fall color. Roads and campgrounds are frequently closed during winter months, so be sure to call the above number before venturing out. Free.

Fenton Lake State Park (505-829-3630), 33 miles northwest of San Ysidro via NM 4, then left at La Cueva on NM 126. Open summer 6 AM–9 PM; winter 7–7. Ponderosa pines sweep down to the shore of this picture-pretty small 28-acre lake stocked with rainbow trout. Only small rowboats and canoes are allowed. There are forty developed campsites, some with hookups. One trail that converts to an easy 2-mile cross-country ski loop in winter. Love this place! $5; $8 camping; $18 hookup.

Manzano Mountains State Park (505-847-2820). Go northwest of Mountainair on NM 55 or about an hour south of Albuquerque on I-40 east, then south at Tijeras exit., 31 NM 131. Open April 1–October 31, 7:30–sunset. Birds love this place. Take the opportunity to spot 200 species, including mountain bluebirds, hummingbirds, jays, and hawks. There is also trout fishing in Manzano Lake. Campsites. $5 per vehicle; $10–18 camping. When fire danger is high, the park is closed.

Sandia Ranger District (505-281-3304), visitor center at Sandia Crest, 11776 NM 337, Tijeras. Open 8–4:30. Closed Saturdays and Sundays and during winter. Hiking, mountain biking, cross-country skiing best accessed by driving the Crest Road, NM 536 to Sandia Crest, or taking the Sandia Peak Aerial Tram. Day use only. $3.

WILDLIFE REFUGES AND AREAS Ladd S. Gordon Waterfowl Complex (505-864-9187), 4 miles north of Bernardo on NM 116. Over 5,000 acres along the Rio Grande are divided into several different units where wildlife viewing, fishing, and hunting in season take place at this state managed waterfowl area.

Las Huertas Canyon (no phone). Continue on NM 165 through Placitas and up the mountain 7 miles. This narrow scenic drive up through the rugged Sandia foothills often offers the running water of Las Huertas Creek, and there are several nice places to camp and fish as well as picnic. In the evening, you have a good possibility of sighting bear. I have seen them here, so keep alert and keep food locked up unless you plan to share your picnic. They are somewhat habituated to humans. Las Huertas Canyon makes a moderate-to-difficult 15-mile mountain bike trail. Free.

Sevilleta National Wildlife Refuge (505-864-4021), 20 miles north of Socorro off I-25 at exit 169. Headquarters is located on the west side of I-25. This Chihuahuan desert ecosystem research center refuge hosts an annual open house with guided tours in October. Special educational tours may be arranged. Mon.–Fri. 7:30–4, Sat. 9–4. Closed Sundays. Tour wetlands by foot or car; hike San Lorenzo Mountain; walk three easy pristine desert trails. Family events such as butterfly counts, throughout the year. Free.

images Wildlife West Nature Park (505-281-7655), I-40 east, exit 187, 87 E. Frontage Road, Edgewood. Open daily summer 10–6, November–mid-March noon–4 or by appointment. This is an interactive 122-acre wildlife park where rescued critters, such as coyotes, cougars, bobcats, mountain lions, and wolves, may be observed in their natural habitats. An easy walk. Camping, plus an abundance of weekend activities like music festivals, fiber and harvest festivals, and other scheduled events, including chuckwagon suppers, make this a good place for a family weekend excursion. $9, seniors $7, students $5, under age 5 free.

Lodging

BED & BREAKFASTS Blue Horse B&B (505-771-9055; www.bluehorsebandb.com), 300 Camino de Las Huertas, Placitas. Utterly adobe, utterly Southwest, utterly situated to maximize the glorious sunsets, stars, and mesas up in Placitas, the Blue Horse promises privacy and the deep quiet that promotes deep rest in any of its three rooms. Gather around the kiva fireplace to unwind and enjoy breakfasts of muffins, waffles, and omelets. You deserve this! $115-$135.

Casa Blanca Guest House and Garden Cottage (575-829-3579), 17521 NM 4, Jemez Springs. Known for exquisite gardens, with a riverfront terrace and grandmother cottonwoods on the premises, this lodging is classically New Mexico, with thick vigas (ceiling beams) and a kiva fireplace in the guest house, which sleeps four and has a kitchenette. The cottage, where you can hear the Jemez River lull you to sleep, rents for $160 a night and sleeps two. The advantage here is that you can walk to town. $160–170.

Casa de Koshare (505-898-4500; www.casadekoshare.com), 122 Ashley Lane NW, Corrales. The koshares are the sacred clowns of the Indian dances, and this delightful B&B goes all the way with the Native American–Southwestern theme, with a Storyteller Suite and a Warrior Room among its four accommodations. It’s a little piece of heaven here, with breakfast catered to your needs and appetite and panoramic views of the Sandia Mountains and city lights from the garden patio. Discounts are offered for extended stays. $139–199

Chocolate Turtle B&B (505-898-1800; www.chocolateturtlebb.com), 1098 W. Meadowlark Lane, Corrales. Four charming and colorful Southwest-style rooms, big picture views of the Sandias, free Wi-Fi and 24-hour complimentary snacks, plus a huge delicious breakfast served on the covered portal in season make this an appealing alternative for the business traveler simply tired of hotel living. $129–159.

Elaine’s, A Bed & Breakfast (800-821-3092 or 505-281-2467; www.elainesbnb.com), 72 Snowline Road, Cedar Crest. Elaine O’Neal has been providing hospitality in the East Mountains for so long, she must be doing something right. You can be sure you will be well taken care of here in this five-room rural setting, with hot tub and handicapped access. Elaine’s also offers golf packages. $109–159.

images images Hacienda Vargas B&B Inn (800-261-0006; www.haciendavargas.com), 1431 NM 313, Algodones. Saturated with history, the seven rooms here, part of a seventeenth-century hacienda, each with private entrance, compose the only bed & breakfast actually located on the Camino Real in New Mexico. Sweet dreams will be yours within the serenity of thick adobe walls, and you will be greeted in the morning with the house special, pumpkin pancakes with roasted piñon nuts. You’ll be ready for a day of exploring in either Albuquerque or Santa Fe. Wedding chapel accommodates 15; packages available. Pet friendly with extra charge. $84-$159.

HOTELS, RESORTS, AND LODGES

images Elk Mountain Lodge (575-829-3159; www.elkmountainlodge.com), 37485 NM 126, La Cueva, just west of junction of NM 4 and NM 126. If you are seeking a romantic getaway that offers convenience to hiking, cross-country skiing, and fishing in the heart of the Jemez Mountains, this four-room, comfy rustic log lodge is the place. Reviews are uniformly positive. A candlelit in-room whirlpool spa helps soothe exercised muscles, and a simple continental breakfast is included. A café and general store are just across the way. Pet-friendly. $119-$229.

images images Hyatt Regency Tamaya Resort & Spa (505-867-1234; www.tamaya.hyatt.com), 1300 Tuyuna Trail, Bernalillo. Convenient to Santa Fe as well as Albuquerque, the Hyatt Tamaya works just as well as a secluded self-contained resort with the Sandias as backdrop. It has 350 rooms, many with private balconies; a fabulous spa; Twin Warriors Golf; the Rio Grande Lounge, with live entertainment; two restaurants; a knockout art collection; demonstrations of bread baking and other arts—all in an exquisite pueblo-style setting that qualifies it as a “cultural resort.” You might find it worth the big bucks for the best money can buy. Golf, romance, Santa Fe day trip and spa specials and packages are available. Hypoallergenic rooms available. A top choice! Visit the website for the best deals. $.

images Isleta Resort & Casino (505-724-3800), 11000 Broadway Boulevard SE, Albuquerque; 13 miles south of Albuquerque, exit 215 to NM 47. Known for its gaming, golf, fishing, camping, dining, and entertainment, this is a great place just to come and play. There’s even the Isleta Fun Connection, which has you covered on bowling, billiards, laser tag, and arcade games. The big names all headline here. Country stars who have appeared on this stage include Willie Nelson, Alan Jackson, and Randy Travis. Whatever your taste buds are craving, you can find it in one of Isleta’s seven restaurants. There’s always something happening here. Weekday Funcation packages are a fab deal at under $150. $219-$648.

images Sandia Resort & Casino (505-796-7500), 30 Rainbow Road NE, Albuquerque. Following a recent multimillion-dollar expansion, Sandia Resort has emerged as a super-luxe seven-story hotel. It has 228 Southwest-style spacious rooms with Ernest Thompson–designed furnishings. The four restaurants are the Council Room Steakhouse; the rooftop Bien Shur, featuring New American cuisine (overseen by well-known chef Jim White); a deli; and a buffet. The resort also boasts a fitness center, salon, upscale spa, the Green Reed, plus a championship golf course. The likes of Trisha Yearwood, the Gipsy Kings, Lyle Lovett, and Harry Connick Jr. appeared recently in the Sandia Amphitheater, and the lounge has live entertainment nightly until midnight. $211 and up.

CABINS AND CAMPING See “State Parks” under Green Space, for camping.

Coronado Campground (505-980-8256), 106 Kuaua Road, Bernalillo, US 550 next to Coronado State Monument. Open year-round. Tenting March 1–October 1 only. No discounts for tents. Reservations advised for this serene twenty-seven hookup RV park, popular due to its views overlooking the bosque and the splendid northwest view of the Sandias. $18-$22.

images Trails End RV Park (575-829-4072), 37695 NM 126, Jemez Springs. Open May 15–October 30. Weekly and monthly only, age 20 and older only, pre-approved pets okay, advanced reservations only for these ten full hookup sites (Wi-Fi included) located in old growth ponderosa pine stands close to all the outdoor recreational opportunities of the Santa Fe National Forest along the Jemez. $35. Prices reduced based on length of stay.

Where to Eat

DINING OUT Corn Maiden (505-771-6060), Hyatt Tamaya Resort, 1300 Tuyana Trail, Santa Ana Pueblo. I-25 exit 242, US 550 to Tamaya Boulevard, 1.5 miles to the resort. D only, Wed.–Sun. 5:30–9. This, the Tamaya’s upscale restaurant, presents the scrumptious, sumptuous signature rotisserie, more than anyone can possibly eat, of an assortment of gigantic skewers of meat, fish, house-made buffalo sausage, and chicken, each flavored with its own delectable marinade, including signature salad and green chile potatoes. Also serves NM Heritage locally ranched beef, red chile chocolate cheesecake, prickly pear duck breast, rabbit gnocci, buffalo carpaccio, reliance on regional ingredients, intriguing spin. Perfect place for a celebration. Expensive.

images Luna Mansion (505-865-7333), 110 W. Main Street, Los Lunas. Open for D Tues.–Sun. 5–9, Sunday brunch 11–2. This grand 1821 historic mansion, an architectural anomaly of Southern plantation–style adobe architecture, with Ionic white columns spanning two stories, is a local institution that holds much of the area’s history, with vintage family photos of Luna and Otero families. It is a favorite of ghost hunters—many report seeing a ghostly figure of a woman in the rocking chair on the landing. The second-story Spirits Lounge has happy hour 3:30–6, wine specials, open daily 3:30. Closed Sunday evenings. Serves aged prime steaks. Wed. $5.00 burgers. Thurs. $12.00 chicken fried steak or catfish. Moderate.

Prairie Star (505-867-3327), 288 Prairie Star Road, Santa Ana. D only. Open Sun.–Thurs. 5–9, Fri.–Sat. 5–10. A special-occasion restaurant with everything you could want in the way of atmosphere and service, Prairie Star is located in an elegant 1920s adobe home. Executive Chef Chris Olsen combines imaginative flavors in ways that allow the ingredients to chime together without confusion. The second-floor lounge shows off the Sandias, and the soft lighting and New Mexico art on the walls sets the stage for a special evening. Under management of the Santa Ana Pueblo, the Prairie Star’s menu features upscale Southwest-based (not dominated) cuisine, including the very best game, fresh fish, bison, and Niman Ranch sirloin. Signature items: appewood-smoked bacon-wrapped pheasant, pan-seared bison tenderloin. Bring someone you want to impress here. Expensive.

EATING OUT Banana Leaf Asian Grill (505-892-6119), 355 NM 528 SE, Rio Rancho. Open daily. L, D. Serving what many believe is some of the finest Asian cuisine in the area, this casual family-run café has been a hit ever since it opened with its Thai, Vietnamese, and Chinese food, all freshly-made and brilliantly spiced. Go for the Thai. Curries and wraps are especially flavorful. And it has a surprisingly cool interior, considering the strip mall location. Inexpensive.

Corrales Bistro Brewery (505-897-1036), 4908 Corrales Road, Corrales. Open daily. Brunch Wed.–Sun., L, D, live entertainment nightly. Serving fare several cuts above standard brewpub food, with generous portions and reasonable prices, this place is always hopping. My friends and I love it. Plus, there’s a darn friendly atmosphere, with a homemade soup of the day; fresh salads; wraps and sandwiches, such as the embellished pastrami Pancho de la Plancha Greenblat; and the Tower of Power fries and burger. Put that together with a dozen New Mexico microbrews, and you’ve got a big winner. Kids welcome. Inexpensive.

Nachos Restaurant (505-832-5505), 904 Route 66, Moriarty. Open Mon.–Sat. 11–8. L, D. The sombreros decorating this local favorite cafe proclaim that this is a Mexican rather than a New Mexican restaurant, but red and green chilies flow freely here. Homemade food prepared from family recipes makes this a worthwhile stop. Even the chips and salsa are made in house, as are the outstanding tamales. Most popular though is the combination plate for $8.00, making this a family- and wallet-friendly cafe. Inexpensive.

Flying Star Café (505-938-4717), 10700 Corrales Road, Corrales. Open daily 6 AM–11 PM, Fri.–Sat. 6 AM–11:30 PM Located just north of Alameda Boulevard in front of the Bosque Trail, with big fireplace in winter to cozy up to and outdoor patio, this is the perfect place to meet friends. Drop in for a late-night snack of Key lime pie, a morning latte and blueberry scone, or bowl of soup and sandwich, anytime. Homemade egg salad and chicken salad, and the grilled beef and chile sandwich are favorites. Known for burgers and fries, milk shakes, vegetarian fare. Known for locally-sourced ingredients. But the tab can add up quickly. Inexpensive.

Hannah & Nate’s Market Cafe (505-898-2370), 4512 Corrales Road, Corrales. B, L daily. The place for Sunday brunch, this is a cozy spot where neighbors and family meet up regularly. It serves excellent coffee. I favor the spinach and mushroom omelet and huevos rancheros, and the heavenly hash, a pile of home fries topped with eggs and chile. Many dishes, such as the NM Eggs Benedict, feature the café’s tender carne adovada. A wonderfully relaxing way to begin a Sunday. Inexpensive.

images Joe’s Pasta House (505-892-3333), 3201 Southern Boulevard SE, Rio Rancho. L, D Mon.–Sun. Baked cannelloni with homemade pasta, toothsome pesto, saltimbocca, and too much to list make Joe’s a comfortable hangout for locals. $50 complete dinner for two with wine and dessert can’t be beat. Best traditional East Coast-style Italian food around, with atmosphere to match. Consistently wins “Best Italian” awards. Extensive menu. Inexpensive–Moderate.

Las Ristras de Corrales (505-433-4192), 4940 Corrales Road, Corrales. One of the best. Truly a value. Taco Tuesday with live music and $1.50 chicken tacos all day, Thursday night prime rib and Colorado lamb chop three-course special for unbelievable prices, northern NM ranch-raised steaks grilled perfectly, falling off the platter, delectable grilled avocado salad, well-chosen and reasonably-priced wines, piquant Mexican food, gracious service, local farm produce on the plate and for sale. B, L, D Tues.–Sat., Sunday brunch only, closed Mondays. A favorite of my family. Inexpensive–Moderate.

Los Ojos Restaurant & Saloon (505-829-3547), NM 4, Jemez Springs. Nothing could be better than the dark, scruffy, woody interior of this classic western bar. Go for the “Famous Jemez Burger” or, on weekend nights, Pam’s prime rib special for $17.00. There are always folks shooting pool. Count on waitresses with attitude and characters with plenty of tales at the bar. This is the place to warm up with a hot bowl of green chile stew or a plate of red chile enchiladas in front of the massive rock fireplace after a day’s cross-country skiing. Inexpensive.

Mary’s Bar, 15A 1st Street, Cerrillos. It may look closed from the outside, but this bar is still hopping inside a 120-year-old building, which was built by the late proprietor Mary Mora’s father. The businesss remains in the family. Here, you might encounter a movie star relaxing off the set, a grizzled miner, a rancher (or wannabe cowboy). And chances are always good that you’ll meet up with a wandering Santa Fe artist at the bar. Inexpensive. Warning to the allergic: Cats abound.

The Merc at Placitas (505-867-8661), 221 NM 165, Homestead Village, Placitas. A well-stocked grocery store and take-out deli with homemade soups, and a local hangout selling beer, wine, and spirits. Plus the Sunday New York Times. The high point of the week is the 4–6:30 PM Friday wine tasting. Mon.–Sat. 9–8, Sun. 9–6. Inexpensive–Moderate.

Mine Shaft Tavern (505-473-0743), 2846 NM 14, Madrid. Open daily. L, D. Sun.–Thurs. 11:30–7:30; Fri.–Sat. 11:30–9; bar open “late.” “New Mexico roadhouse cuisine” is the specialty, as are the locally sourced green chile burgers (Mad Burger #1) with hand-cut fries, homemade guac, salsa, and green chile stew. Don’t forget about the barbecue brisket. Long a big-time biker hangout, the Mine Shaft was constructed in 1946 as a coal company town saloon with a 40-foot-long antique lodge pole pine bar. Fifteen beers are on tap. If you haven’t been to the Mine Shaft, you haven’t been to Madrid. Live entertainment on weekends, and often during the week. Inexpensive.

Perea’s Restaurant & Tijuana Bar (505-898-2442), 4590 Corrales Road, Corrales. Open Mon.–Sat. 11:30–2. L only. Some places serve great Mexican food, some serve great margaritas. This old-timey place has both. Don’t be afraid to walk in. The 300-year-old building was constructed of terrones, blocks of mud cut from the riverbank. The original construction is displayed on a wall cutout inside. You can’t eat history; however, you certainly can eat the classic green chile enchiladas, carne adovada, and, my favorite, the irresistible mildly spicy and gooey chicken enchilada casserole. Inexpensive.

Range Café (505-867-1700), 925 S. Camino del Pueblo, Bernalillo. Open daily 7:30 AM–9:30 PM Has live music on weekends. With its casual, consistent home cooking served in huge portions (meat loaf and mashed potatoes and chicken-fried steak), excellent pancakes, huevos rancheros, and over-the-top desserts (like the trademark “Death by Lemon”), it’s no wonder that Range is a popular gathering spot. Although success of this flagship has spawned numerous spinoffs around town, I insist on dining at this, the mothership. Fabulous gift shop of NM products to browse while you wait. Expect a wait for Sunday breakfast. Inexpensive.

Santa Ana Café (505-771-6060), Hyatt Tamaya Resort, 1300 Tuyuna Trail, Santa Ana. Open daily 6:30 AM–9 PM, closed 2–5:30 PM. B, L, D. A fine place to enjoy a Sunday brunch or Friday evening prime rib buffet, and a place to try interesting lighter fare, such as fish and salads, with a native twist the rest of the time, competent, not adventuresome cooking. Patio dining. Moderate–Expensive.

Teofilo’s Restaurante (505-865-5511), 144 Main Street, Los Lunas, across from the Luna Mansion. L, D. Closed Mondays. This simple, welcoming, restored 1912 adobe home serves some of the best, most consistent New Mexican food. The yeasted hot sopaipillas are little pillows of heaven when slathered with honey, and the red chile is superb. There’s no better place for Sunday lunch, and the patio is lovely in warm weather. Who needs Santa Fe? This is the real deal. Hours change seasonally. Inexpensive.

Entertainment

Sandia and Isleta Pueblos offer big-name entertainment: popular comedians, musicians, and performers, as well as those who were big “back in the day.” See listings under “Hotels, Resorts, and Lodges.”

Santa Ana Star Center (505-891-7300), 3001 Civic Center Circle, Rio Rancho. Find a busy schedule of sports events, car shows, concerts, ice shows, and much more at this spiffy facility.

images Wildlife West Nature Park (505-281-87655), 87 N. Frontage Road, Edgewood. Sat. 10–6, June 30–September 1, chuckwagon barbecue feast followed by vintage western swing music on Saturday nights.

Selective Shopping

Bien Mur Indian Market Center (505-821-5401), 100 Bien Mur Drive NE. I-25 exit 234 east on Tramway Road. Open Mon.–Sat. 9:30–5:30, Sun. 11–5:30. For high-quality, guaranteed-authentic Indian jewelry, rugs, pottery, baskets, and turquoise and silver jewelry, this is an excellent place to shop. You are sure to find something you simply must have at a fair price.

Cowgirl Red (505-474-0344), 2865 NM 14, Madrid. Everything essential for the cowgirl or wannabe cowgirl, especially those prize vintage boots—there’s 500 pairs to tempt you, plus vintage and contemporary Native American jewelry and art. If you have time for only one shopping stop in Madrid, that’s sad, but make this the place.

Johnsons of Madrid (505-471-1054), 2843 NM 14, Madrid. In a town with thirty art galleries, Johnsons remains the first and oldest, since 1973, featuring regional textiles, fiber arts, photography, and fine art.

Walatowa Visitor Center (575-834-7235). See “Guidance.”

Special Events

January: Belen, billing itself as the “world’s largest matanza,” where thousands show up for the traditional pig roast. (505-925-8910).

April: Tome, Good Friday procession to Tome Hill.

May: Memorial Day weekend, Jemez Pueblo Red Rocks Arts & Crafts Festival (575-834-7235).

June–July: Music at the Ballpark (505-471-1054), Madrid. Music festivals of all kinds held here. Wildlife West (505-281-7655), Edgewood. Third weekend in June, Bluegrass Weekend, with bands, vendors, workshops, zoo tours, chuckwagon barbecue, and western swing music. Annual Pork and State BBQ Championship (888-746-7262), early July, Rio Rancho.

August: Las Fiestas de San Lorenzo (505-867-5252), Bernalillo. Traditionally held August 9–10 to honor the town’s patron saint, the fiesta features the ancient Matachines dances, performed in the streets.

September: Join HawkWatch in the Manzano Mountain watch site near Capilla Peak (801-484-6808; www.hawkwatch.org) for raptor counts in the Sandias—assist with the raptor count and learn about the migrating birds of prey from interpretive rangers on-site.

October: Corrales Harvest Festival (505-350-3955), Corrales: music, hayrides, produce, and storytelling. Also National Pinto Bean Festival (505-832-4087), Moriarty.

December: Christmas in Madrid (505-471-1054): an annual community open house and parade. Christmas at Kuaua (505-867-5351), Coronado State Monument, December 20, 5:30–8:30 PM, with luminarias and Pueblo and Spanish dancing. Free. Farolito Tour (505-829-3530), Jemez State Monument, 5–8 PM: pueblo dances and music, plus 1,500 farolitos light up ancient Giusewa Pueblo ruins. Free.