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BEAUTY AND SOME MAKEUP AND MANICURES

We use moisturizers, wear makeup, trim our toenails, and wear smexy (smart and sexy) clothes and shoes to approach feeling or looking beautiful. But beauty in whose eyes? Standards for beauty have been different through the ages and cultures and continue to evolve. (Or there would no longer be fashion designers and the like.) Right now, the world seems fixated on a global standard of an American-and-Western-inspired look: a youthful homogenized look that is heavily promoted. Add slim bodies but big breasts and an uptilted narrow nose. Remember all the Asians who get plastic surgery to look like someone else? And consider this: Iran has begun to see soaring rates of rhinoplasty, the nose being one of the very few physical aspects that is seen on the usually burka-clad women of the country who claim that a softer, “Western” nose is more beautiful. The surgery is so popular there that Tehran has been dubbed the “Nose Job Capital” of the world.

Also add tall, as in tall models, to the abnormal image of beauty being touted today in a Western fashion-designer way. What are all those platform shoes and five-inch heels really about? Watch an award show like the Oscars broadcast globally and you will see beautiful actresses, dressing like models. After fasting painfully (and complaining about it publicly to bond with their audience), these actresses are squeezed into gowns (often with skin fully exposed on their backs and sometimes shoulders) that are loaned by a famous fashion house and designer. Their hair is elaborately styled and frozen in place, and their makeup is camera perfect. Then they are jacked up four or five inches to appear abnormally tall. And that is our ideal of beauty today? It certainly would not pass Renoir’s test.

I am struck by this evolution toward “extreme beauty.” This kind of look certainly cannot fit all. So I wonder about all those designer gown knockoffs. Who wears them? Young fashionista wannabes at weddings? Certainly not women who age with attitude. Plus, I always think it a little foolish to rush to the flavor-of-the-season look. It is something that’s forgiven in the young perhaps, but not for the rest of us. And again, notions of beauty are fickle.

Consider beauty as it was promoted in the West in the 1920s in magazines and movies.

In 1920, a very pale complexion with blushed cheeks was a popular makeup look, paired with bright, bloodred lipstick. But the moment the inimitable Coco Chanel appeared in public with the faint signs of a suntan, our love affair with a more sun-kissed look got started.

By 1929, with pale out and tan in and considered healthy, cosmetics company Coty helped women achieve the increasingly popular sunless tan. Coty Tan self-tanning powder and liquid was formulated to “beat the sun at its own game.” Many decades later, the cosmetics industry of today continues to “perfect” tan in a bottle or jar. And along came technology and tanning salons across nations, as unhealthy as some may be. But I get it; I hide from the damaging rays of the sun and wear sunscreen routinely, yet I am culturally conditioned to feel better when I have my August hue. Perhaps someday we will return to “new-and-improved” painted faces of the court of France during Louis XIV’s reign as again the ne plus ultra of beauty. Painted beauty marks are something to contemplate as we age.

FIVE OR SIX WISE WORDS ON MAKEUP

Skin care and makeup are, of course, not the same thing, though they increasingly overlap for the good. A touch of lipstick, for example, is an essential lip moisturizer. But what color lipstick? Is fire-engine red still the right one at age fifty, sixty, seventy, eighty? (It was in the 1930s when sales of red lipstick soared, with oxblood being one of the most popular shades of the time. Amusingly, its downside was that it often stained your lips and the lips of anyone you happened to kiss while wearing it!)

Here are two realities: (1) bad makeup, as in boldly penciled-in eyebrows, too much eyeliner on the upper and lower lids, coloring-book colors, et cetera, et cetera, makes one look like a clown at best and grotesque at worst; and (2) too much makeup, especially as one ages, generally makes one look worse rather than better.

Makeup in the hands of an artist, of course, can do wonders. The right touch of makeup is a style accent and rejuvenator par excellence. But here’s an irony: When you are young, you don’t need much makeup, but you can wear it well. When you are old, you think and you may indeed need more cover-ups and accents, but you cannot wear them well.

A problem we all face with getting makeup advice is that the people who give it are in the business of either selling makeup products or applying makeup products. How do we learn what is best for us as we age?

I don’t have a really good answer beyond trial and error and looking hard and objectively in the mirror.

But, as noted, I do have a mantra: “Less is more.”

A touch of lipstick, sure. A thin line of eyeliner, sure. A little cover-up base and a little worked-in color to raise one’s cheeks and eyes, sure. Then you are on your own. Most of the time, you want to look yourself, which means consistency. And makeup, unlike hair coloring, really cannot turn back the clock dramatically, but can just make you look your best for your age. Contrariwise, bad makeup à la heavy foundation and mascara can make you look your age—deepening wrinkles and making your eyes look older—and more. Light and well-done makeup, on the other hand, can make you look more rested, more polished, and help you feel more attractive and confident.

Let me cover a few more specific approaches and details to makeup that help us address nature’s realities in a cosmetic but not medical fashion.

First, the base. For most of us, after forty, foundation and other coverage base makeup such as concealer and powder are our most frequently used beauty staples and friends—but if they’re not used correctly, they can easily become foes. Personally, I am a minimalist.

It may seem counterintuitive, but as we age we need less makeup, not more. “Less is more” is a tenant I preach for many things, and when it comes to makeup and aging, not practicing it is a serious mistake. The more fine lines and wrinkles you have, the more sparingly you need to apply your foundation and especially your powdered base. Too much and the makeup actually begins to seep into and accentuate the lines on your face, not conceal them. And another tip, by the way: once your face has noticeable wrinkles, don’t even think about makeup and moisturizers with glittery particles that draw attention. C’est tout.

Instead of piling it on, choose a sheer or lightweight liquid foundation or a tinted and luminescent moisturizer. These brighten the skin and give the impression that the skin is glowing. And who doesn’t want to glow? Dior Airflash is an aerated foundation, which is great for minimal makeup users. It gives the skin that airbrushed look. (It’s best to pull hair up in a towel and apply without a blouse on so you don’t get spray on your hair or clothes.)

If you ever have your makeup done professionally or have seen it done on TV, you’ll notice the artists rarely use their fingers to apply base makeup, and instead opt for a foundation brush or a soft sponge. These tools help distribute the makeup evenly and sparingly. They’re also much gentler and do not stretch the skin as our fingers can. To apply, dot the foundation in small circles on your problem areas only and then softly use the brush to work into the skin.

Apply a bit of powder on the nose, forehead, and chin to reduce shininess if needed, but use sparingly. Too much powder makes the skin look dry and accentuates fine lines. This is why most makeup artists abide by a golden rule, especially when working with women over forty: no powder around the eyes.

And speaking of eyes, it’s important to note: the skin under our eyes begins to thin as we get older. Take special care not to stretch or pull on this delicate area. Most women begin to see fine lines, crow’s-feet, and dark circles around their eyes after forty—and inevitably reach for the thick concealer stick to mask these issues. However, too much can actually accentuate what they’re trying to cover up. Instead, use a lightweight liquid concealer or foundation and apply sparingly with a brush, avoiding the inner eye area. Maybelline roll-on eraser/concealer for eyes is very affordable, effective, and easy to apply. Makeup guru Bobbi Brown, though, favors a light concealer there to make you look less tired—and her creamy concealer is a flawless, quality product. Better yet is more sleep and being less tired!

Depending on your tastes, you can apply eye shadow, eyeliner, mascara, or all three. I tend to keep it simple in this area. A bit of eye shadow in a neutral color with some reflective particles helps to brighten the eyes but not overpower them. A little eyeliner that’s very thin (or almost nonexistent) toward the inner part of the eye and thicker toward the outer part of the eye helps to counterbalance the natural and inevitable little droop that happens as our time goes on. And when eyeliners no longer achieve the effect you want, use, for example, the appropriately named matte color Faux Pas from Lancôme, which takes three seconds to smear and results in both an eyeliner and a bit of shadow.

In America, and it seems to me in what I’ve seen of the Middle East, for a special occasion a smoky eye has become a classic—no idea why. But no matter your age, it’s best suited for an evening event such as a wedding or gala. Even then, keep it simple and subtle. But frankly, I just don’t get putting on a face for a special occasion that isn’t your own…never have.

One “rule” to always abide by is to steer clear of the bottom of the eye. Eyeliner and mascara on the lower lashes actually make the eyes look smaller. After a few hours, it also begins to creep down and settle into the fine lines around the eyes, accentuating dark circles—exactly what you don’t want. At least I don’t.

To add a little pop of color? We all feel more beautiful when we have some color in our cheeks. It’s a term that extends far beyond vanity, serving as an indicator for health and vitality. However, rosy cheeks are best reserved for cherubs and children. As we age, applying blush to the apples of the cheeks can actually draw attention to sagging skin. Quelle horreur! Instead, use a large blush brush and apply starting at the highest part of your cheekbone, usually just below your eye, and sweep away from the center of your face, upward toward the space between your eye and ear. No matter your skin tone, stay away from deep shades and blushes that have a brown or copper base to them (such as bronzers). They can actually make the skin look sallow. Instead, opt for a rose or a peach base, which will brighten and illuminate the skin. Also, many experts suggest a cream blush versus a powder blush for older women.

The lips: ooh la la. It’s been said—and even studied—that men find lips to be the most sensual part of a woman. So it’s no wonder so many women spend years adorning their lips with colors and glosses that emphasize them, making the wearer feel sexier and more noticed, too.

Alas, as we age, the skin isn’t the only part of the face that sees the effects of time. The lips begin to fade in color and thin out (hence why many women of a certain age turn to collagen injections). They also begin to form very small fine lines (similar to what happens around our eyes). C’est la vie. But what many women don’t realize is that when it comes to lips, as we age, the “Less is more” maxim applies as well.

So it’s out with the “bold.” Bright neon colors and deep, dark shades are too heavy for thinning lips. This is one case where I don’t recommend a good merlot. Instead, pick a neutral rose shade, which looks good on most skin tones. Also consider a sheer gloss—it will give you more fullness without overpowering the lips.

In the end, consistency is important, as is being comfortable in your own skin. I learned some lessons the hard way, and I have the photos and videotapes to prove it. I am not a fan of extreme makeovers. Or anything more than a tweaking of what comes naturally to you. In my professional life, I had to use makeup artists for television appearances so many times I am almost embarrassed to say. They did not succeed in making me into Catherine Deneuve. Sometimes they succeeded in making me not me. There once was a time, for instance, when all the major morning TV shows had serious makeup artists for the guests. Sitting for one was an obligatory part of appearing on the show. I never found two the same, nor did I look the same, including when I had back-to-back appearances on two networks. I always got talked into a little of this and a little of that. Perhaps one in five or maybe ten made me look my best, and that only encouraged me to give the next person a try. Stupid me. Now the anchors have people who know their skin, their face, their needs, the setting, and even the products that work best for them. These are the real artists, and they work with the same customers repeatedly to find what is best for them. Of course, camera lights require a type of makeup you would not wear on the street.

My moment of committing to “Less is more” occurred at the Academy Awards. This falls under the category of “it is hard work but someone has to do it”! In my champagne days working for LVMH and Veuve Clicquot, I used to go to Hollywood for the awards and parties (I am smiling). If you are booked at any one of a half dozen hotels where the “stars” and industry moguls are staying, you are swept up with goody bags and free this and that, even offers to borrow designer gowns and clothes if you are going to be in the spotlight—and you want to dress and look good. It is the night—practically the only night—Hollywood dresses up, and everyone wants to look amazing. I used to accept a free blow-dry and makeup session at a salon on Rodeo Drive. (By the way, “free” in those days meant you left a hundred-dollar tip on what would have been a hundred-dollar salon bill, even though it would have been a twenty-five-dollar tab in most neighborhood places.) I know why I got the blow-dry. The makeup…well, I was there. I went to the salon looking like myself. I looked better after the blow-dry, but after the makeup? I walked out looking fine, but just not like me. I knew I was going to a costume party, but I preferred my own face.

NAILS, NAILS, AND AGE

Nail treatment can be categorized as another form of makeup, tellingly so, but like hair, nails age and demand different treatments over time. Certainly nails, like hair, can make a powerful grooming statement. Remember the woman with carrot-colored hair at the Palais Royal? Just a suggestion, but after the age of forty, don’t consider carrot-colored or bright, boldly colored nails. Okay? More than color, well-manicured nails are about being well-groomed and, sure, pampering oneself a bit. It’s a good thing, a positive, and a mood enhancer.

Nails grow slower as you age and often become more brittle and dull. Unhealthy nails, like unhealthy hair, can signal some deeper health problems, especially nutritional deficiencies (beware the effect of yo-yo diets on your nails, especially those laden with protein). In advancing years, nails may become yellowed and opaque and may develop ridges. All this is natural, as is greater thickness and hardness, particularly of one’s toenails. Just the invitation for some polish or buffing as a normal part of grooming and attitude as one ages.

It seems to me that painting one’s nails was once an at-home activity or perhaps an occasional hair salon supplément. That has all changed over the past decade in New York and beyond. Nail salons have proliferated like coffee bars. Fact: within one thousand yards or meters of my Manhattan home, there are at least seven nail salons. And as far as I can tell, they are reasonably busy…all of them. Having one’s nails done has gone from being thought of as an inexpensive indulgence to a routine activity. (There are at least five coffee shops in the same small area!)

With so many people going to nail salons for manicures and pedicures, often for procedures that one cannot manage by oneself at home, the push for more, not less, is evident. These nail technicians constantly upsell their processes and procedures to enhance their bills and tips. That is the way of the world. But it does not mean it is wise to add sparkles to your artificial purple nails. By the way, while the latest acrylic manicures are relatively safe—though they can thin and/or crack the nail plate—they can cause allergic dermatitis, and after removal, fungal and bacterial infections are all too common.

Remember, less is more as one ages, and nail care needs to coordinate with hair care and makeup. One of the telltale signs of age that cosmetic surgery has yet to conquer is the back of one’s hands. Do you want to draw attention to yours with bright or flashy nail polish or superlong nails? Enough said.

I welcome the little luxury of a manicure and pedicure done by trained others, especially as competition has kept the prices down. I can even get a manicure or pedicure at most airports, though I don’t. However, I recently encountered the logical extension into absurdity: a fish pedicure. In Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, an entrepreneur is cashing in on tourists sitting in chairs with their feet submerged in a boxlike tank, where tiny fish nibble at the dead cuticles around their toenails. It is reported not to work as well as scissors and cuticle removers. Should I ever try, I will be sure to get an appointment early in the day when the fish are still hungry.