CHAPTER 6
Grand Teton National Park
38. Jenny Lake and Moose Ponds
39. Laurance S. Rockefeller Preserve
40. Leigh, Bearpaw, and Trapper Lakes
42. Rendezvous Mountain to Granite Canyon
44. Surprise and Amphitheater Lakes
Overleaf and opposite: Panorama of the Teton Range, looking west across Jackson Hole
Grand Teton National Park
It’s often said that the Teton Range is what mountains are supposed to look like. Indeed, the range is a textbook example of alpine topography and one of the world’s most iconic concentrations of rock and ice, with its jagged peaks rising abruptly several thousand feet from Jackson Hole and the broad Snake River Plain.
As you traverse the sagebrush flats that dominate the Jackson Hole valley floor, the trois Tetons appear to follow your eyes, like the Mona Lisa—a mesmerizing experience, no matter how many times you have laid eyes on them. In fact, the peaks’ allure seems to grow with each new glimpse, as local climbers can attest.
If Yellowstone is primarily about natural spectacle (Old Faithful, bison photo ops, dazzling thermal areas, charismatic megafauna, and so on), then the Teton experience is more active and participatory: in summer, it’s all about hiking, climbing, fishing, floating, paddling, and mountaineering. In Yellowstone, it’s easiest to observe wildlife along the roads, but in the Tetons your best bet is often to beeline for the high country. One distinct advantage is that the Tetons are blissfully bug-free year-round, while Yellowstone can be quite the opposite in the early summer until August.
While the granitic peaks are the obsession of an international coterie of climbers, it’s the lovely piedmont lakes and glacial canyons that attract legions of day hikers and backpackers to the park’s 250 miles of trails. The hiking season runs roughly May–October, depending on elevation and weather conditions. Snowfields usually disappear from valley trails by sometime in June but linger on canyon trails and at higher elevations through the end of July. Many summers’ worth of world-class alpine and subalpine hiking and climbing await.
Since more folks get out of their cars and hit the trails here than in Yellowstone, it pays to plan ahead, especially if you prefer to camp. During July and August, trailhead parking areas fill early, especially at South Jenny Lake, String Lake, Lupine Meadows, Death Canyon, and Granite Canyon. Get an early start and obey posted regulations to avoid parking tickets. Most trailheads don’t have water or restrooms.
The holy grail for gung-ho backpackers is the sky-high Teton Crest Trail, which traverses 40 exhilarating miles while straddling the range’s rugged spine. The most popular stretch runs from Rendezvous Mountain (10,450 feet) in the south to Paintbrush Divide (10,720 feet) and String Lake (6,875 feet) in the north. Due to the high elevation, the Crest Trail’s short season runs roughly mid-July–mid-September, with the first month or so being the best for wildflowers. Most people opt to do the hike in three to four nights, from south to north to take advantage of the high-altitude start and leave the most challenging sections for last. Even with a net 3,575-foot elevation loss hiking south to north, there’s still plenty of roller-coaster terrain along the way. For an even longer trip, it’s possible to begin south of the park, on the eastern side of Teton Pass at the Ski Lake trailhead (7,800 feet), in the Bridger-Teton National Forest.
The park’s five developed, first-come, first-served frontcountry campgrounds ($24–$25 per night, $10–$11 per hiker/bicyclist site) are run by concessionaires Grand Teton Lodge Company and Signal Mountain Lodge. Most campgrounds fill up by noon during the summer, and Jenny Lake fills before 9 a.m. Advance reservations are available (and advised) only for group campsites and RV sites.
From most to least popular, frontcountry campgrounds include the tent-only Jenny Lake (49 sites, open early May–mid-September), popular with climbers; Signal Mountain (81 sites, open early May–mid-October), with an RV dump station and good Jackson Lake views; chaotic Colter Bay (350 sites, open late May–late September), near services at Colter Village, with a separate RV park; secluded Lizard Creek (60 sites, open early June–early September), popular with boaters; and inconveniently located Gros Ventre (300 sites, open early May–mid-October), which has a dump station and is always the last to fill. The maximum stay in the park is 30 nights per year and 14 nights at each campground, except Jenny Lake, where it’s 7 nights.
Just outside the park, the Bridger-Teton National Forest has some popular (but unreservable) camping options as well. These include free, primitive, dispersed sites north of the quaint settlement of Kelly on Shadow Mountain (two-night limit); $12 sites in scenic Curtis Canyon, up a rough road 8 miles east of the National Elk Refuge; $5 primitive sites at Sheffield Creek just south of Flagg Ranch; and eight free, minimally developed sites spread out along the first 9 miles of the unpaved Grassy Lake Road, west of Flagg Ranch.
RVs can get sites with hookups at Signal Mountain Campground ($47–$59), Gros Ventre ($51), Colter Bay RV Park ($58–$68), Colter Bay Campground ($51), and Headwaters at Flagg Ranch ($71). Reservations are available at Colter Bay RV Park at 307-543-3100 and Headwaters at 307-543-2861.
The best deal inside the park is the dorm bunks ($25 per nonmember, $16 per member) at the American Alpine Club’s Grand Teton Climbers’ Ranch, 3 miles south of Jenny Lake off Teton Park Road. Call 307-733-7271 or visit americanalpineclub.org/gtcr; open early June–mid-September. Advance reservations are available online, and walk-ins are welcome if space is available (call ahead).
See the Appendix for a summary of in-park lodging options (all nonsmoking and without phones or TVs), most of which are open between May and October, weather permitting.
Permits and Maps
None of this chapter’s day hikes requires permits. All overnight trips require a backcountry camping permit ($25 per permit). One-third of the backcountry campsites are reservable in advance (applications accepted at recreation.gov or in person January 1–May 15, for a nonrefundable service fee of $35), while the rest are filled on a first-come, first-served basis starting the first week of June at park permit offices. Download the park’s Backcountry Camping brochure at tinyurl.com/gtnpbackcountrybrochure, or contact the Backcountry Permits Office for details. Call 307-739-3309 or 307-739-3397.
The park headquarters are across the road from the year-round Craig Thomas Discovery & Visitor Center, where there’s a 3-D relief map of the park and exhibits on history, natural history, climbing, and Indian arts, and where you can arrange permits, watch videos about the park, and buy an extensive range of books and maps. Free Wi-Fi is available here. Call 307-739-3399 or visit nps.gov/grte. Open 8 a.m.–7 p.m. in summer, 8 or 9 a.m.–5 p.m. the rest of the year.
The Jenny Lake Ranger Station also issues permits and is the best place to get updates on backcountry hiking and climbing conditions, though it’s not the best place to get backcountry permits for other parts of the park, such as Jackson Lake. Call 307-739-3343; open daily, 8 a.m.–7 p.m., in summer, with reduced spring and fall hours.
Nearby, the summer-only and recently renovated Jenny Lake Visitor Center has a bookstore, helpful staff, a 3-D map of Jackson Hole, and good interpretive geological displays. Call 307-739-3392; open daily, 8 a.m.– 7 p.m., late June–August (until 4:30 p.m. in early and late season).
On the northeast side of Jackson Lake, 25 miles north of Moose, the Colter Bay Visitor Center has a good bookstore, videos, free Wi-Fi, and the most helpful rangers for issuing permits around Jackson Lake. Call 307-739-3594; open daily, 8 a.m.–7 p.m., from June–August, with reduced hours in May and September–October.
Grand Teton National Park
Bradley and Taggart Lakes
This scenic, leisurely wander through regenerating lodgepole pine forest is a great way to escape the crowds around Jenny Lake. Forested Bradley Lake provides a fine contrast to the burn areas around Taggart Lake, and the tranquil lakes teem with fish.
TRAIL 35
Hike, Horse
5.8 miles, Loop
Difficulty: 1 2 3 4 5
Cascade Canyon
The confluence of several major climbing and backpacking trails, this challenging extension of the popular Jenny Lake and Hidden Falls route is the park’s most popular and crowded canyon trail. Rightly so, since it’s also one of the most beautiful and direct routes into the wild heart of the Tetons.
TRAIL 36
Hike, Backpack, Horse
9.1 miles, Out-and-back
Difficulty: 1 2 3 4 5
Hermitage Point
This rewarding lakefront jaunt is the perfect antidote to the crowds around Colter Bay Village. The forested habitat is varied, and the Teton views across Jackson Lake are superb. An overnight at the point, one of the park’s best low-elevation campgrounds, makes a great first-time backcountry adventure.
TRAIL 37
Hike, Backpack, Horse
9.4 miles, Loop
Difficulty: 1 2 3 4 5
Jenny Lake and Moose Ponds
This must-see destination is the park’s most popular day hike—and it deserves all the attention it receives. The route is nearly flat, and you can catch an optional shuttle boat to Hidden Falls. Come at the right time, and the trail around the pretty lake might not even be crowded.
TRAIL 38
Hike, Horse
7.0 miles, Loop
Difficulty: 1 2 3 4 5
Laurance S. Rockefeller Preserve
Explore the latest addition to Grand Teton National Park, a former dude ranch and Rockefeller family summer retreat, via 8 miles of minimally signed trails that weave through a diverse range of sage-lands, forests, and wetlands and alongside tumbling creeks. A gem of a picnic spot awaits on the southern shore of Phelps Lake.
TRAIL 39
Hike, Horse
3.0 miles, Loop
Difficulty: 1 2 3 4 5
Leigh, Bearpaw, and Trapper Lakes
This family-friendly outing is easily extended into a stress-free overnighter. All three lakes are far enough away from the road to make you feel like you are in the backcountry. At midsummer, Leigh Lake is a favorite swimming hole and popular horseback-riding destination.
TRAIL 40
Hike, Backpack, Horse
2.2 or 8.4 miles, Outand-back
Difficulty: 1 2 3 4 5
Phelps Lake
This popular, low-elevation outing climbs gently through shady, mature forest to a scenic overlook of a charming glacial lake. Fish and wildflowers are abundant, and the three lakefront campsites feel miles from the trailhead. Reserve ahead for an easy, family-friendly overnighter.
TRAIL 41
Hike, Backpack, Horse
4.0 miles, Out-and-back
Difficulty: 1 2 3 4 5
Rendezvous Mountain to Granite Canyon
This route is spectacular—and 95% downhill—so it sees traffic whenever the weather is decent and the tram is in service. Lower Granite Canyon is a riot of vegetation and wildlife. With so many critters flitting about, it can feel busy even when no other hikers are around.
TRAIL 42
Hike, Backpack, Horse
12.4 miles, Loop
Difficulty: 1 2 3 4 5
One of the park’s most rewarding easy hikes traces the shoreline of a tranquil lake at the foot of the awe-inspiring Teton Range. Swimming and boating options add to the alluring mix.
TRAIL 43
Hike, Horse
3.4 miles, Loop
Difficulty: 1 2 3 4 5
Surprise and Amphitheater Lakes
Don’t try this challenging route on your first day at altitude. The supersteep hike is one of the park’s most popular for good reason: it provides quick access to a couple of the most scenic alpine lakes in North America.
TRAIL 44
Hike, Backpack
9.6 miles, Out-and-back
Difficulty: 1 2 3 4 5
Table Mountain
For some of the best views of the Tetons, you have to leave the park and drive into neighboring Idaho. You’ll feel eyeball to eyeball with the epic range on this popular classic.
TRAIL 45
Hike
14 miles, Out-and-back
Difficulty: 1 2 3 4 5
Two Ocean Lake
This easy hike around a serene lake in the park’s sparsely visited northeast corner is the antithesis of what most visitors expect from their Teton experience. What the route lacks in breathtaking switchbacks and alpine vistas it more than makes up for in lovely flora, abundant wildlife, and fine panoramas of the Teton Range. If you’re up for great views and a more ambitious climb, continue on to Grand View Point.
TRAIL 46
Hike, Horse
6.4 miles, Loop
Difficulty: 1 2 3 4 5
TRAIL 35 GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK
Bradley and Taggart Lakes
TRAIL USE
Hike, Horse
LENGTH
5.8 miles, 3–4 hours
VERTICAL FEET
±550
DIFFICULTY
– 1 2 3 4 5 +
TRAIL TYPE
Loop
SURFACE TYPE
Dirt
FEATURES
Child Friendly
Lake
Autumn Colors
Wildflowers
Birds
Wildlife
Great Views
Geologic Interest
FACILITIES
Restrooms
Picnic Tables
Escape the crowds at Jenny Lake with this scenic, leisurely wander through meadows and regenerating forest to a pair of lovely glacial lakes. The untouched forests around Bradley Lake provide a vivid contrast to the Taggart Lake burn area. Both lakes are lined with secluded beaches and teem with fish, but sorry, there’s no swimming allowed.
Best Time
Almost any time between May and October is a good time to visit these low-elevation lakes. As elsewhere, you’ll be the most comfortable and spot the most wildlife outside of the midday hours, as shade is in short supply in the burn areas. Rangers lead guided hikes to Taggart Lake June–August, daily at 9 a.m.
Finding the Trail
From the south, head north out of Jackson 8 miles on US 26/89/191 past the park’s southern boundary, and turn left at Moose Junction. Continue 1 mile past the visitor center to the Moose Entrance Station. Go 2.3 miles north and turn left into the ample Taggart Lake trailhead parking area, on the west side of Teton Park Road. From the north, starting at Jackson Lake Junction, go 17.5 miles south on Teton Park Road, past the Jenny Lake Visitor Center, and turn right into the parking area. Pick up a field guide and map at the trailhead ($1 donation or return it when finished).
From the parking area, ▸1 the wide trail heads west across a rolling sagebrush flat dotted with wildflowers. At the foot of the glacial moraine, the trail splits at a T-junction ▸2 signed for the Beaver Creek Trail.
The timbered ridges that confine both lakes, known as lateral moraines, are composed of glacial debris; they give some idea of how thick the glaciers once were.
Wildflowers 
The right fork, the Taggart Lake Trail, heads north, branching off the road-size trail onto the main hiking trail, which crosses Taggart Creek on a wooden footbridge. After tracing the creek and passing horse corrals, the trail swings left and skirts the flank of the burned moraine. The Tetons appear and, if you’re lucky, the delights of postfire regeneration—busy birds, active wildlife, and blooming wildflowers—are very much in evidence.
Viewpoint 
About 30 minutes into the hike, you meet the junction of trails to Taggart and Bradley Lakes ▸3 at 1.3 miles. Take the left fork for Taggart Lake, tracing the ridge of the glacial moraine, then descending through stands of quaking baby aspens and open sagebrush. After 1.6 miles you reach Taggart Lake, where you can take a short detour left (south) at the Taggart Lake/Valley Trail junction ▸4 along the south shore to the outlet of Taggart Lake (6,902 feet). On a clear day, from the bridge over the outlet stream, you’ll find unobstructed views of the remarkable Grand Teton (13,770 feet). If you are short on time, you could turn back here for a 3.2-mile hike.
Lake 
Retrace your steps north along the lakeshore back to the junction, ▸5 and then continue north on the Taggart Lake/Valley Trail, which switchbacks steeply for 20 minutes over the moraine dividing Taggart and Bradley Lakes. The Valley Trail passes a junction for the Bradley Lake Trail, headed back to the trailhead, just before it hits the well-forested southeast shore of Bradley Lake (7,022 feet). The lake was originally formed by the glacial ice that once poured out of Garnet Canyon.
Early-Season Access
Early in the season—say, mid-May—the Beaver Creek Trail is a good alternative to reach Taggart Lake via the Valley Trail (4.2 miles round-trip), when the more northerly Bradley Lake route remains covered by snow. Either lake can be visited by itself as a loop hike, and any of these routes can be done in either direction without an increase in difficulty.
Grand Teton Pathway
The paved, multiuse Grand Teton Pathway offers a rare chance for some wonderful, safe cycling in the shadow of stunning Teton views. The 20-mile path runs from Jackson to Moose and then parallels Teton Park Road past the Taggart Lake trailhead en route to Jenny Lake. It’s a great family ride from either Jenny Lake or Moose, and you can use the trail to get to the Taggart Lake trailhead and make the Taggart and Bradley Lakes hike before cycling back. It’s a 5-mile ride to the trailhead from Jenny Lake or 3 miles from Moose. From Moose to Jenny Lake is 7.5 miles. The nonmotorized trail is open to in-line skaters, walkers, and runners (no pets) and is wheel-chair accessible. If you don’t have your own bike, you can rent one at Dornans (dornans.com) in Moose or at Hoback Sports (hobacksports.com) or Teton Mountain Bike Tours (tetonmtbike.com) in Jackson. Figure on $40 for a day’s hire.
Viewpoint
Before turning tail for home, take time to explore the placid lakeshore. It’s worth making the detour ▸6 0.3 mile left (north) along the lakeshore to the bridge spanning the lake’s narrow neck for more stunning, up-close Teton views. The bridge was out of service in 2016 but should have been replaced by 2017. Retrace your steps back to the Bradley Lake Trail ▸7 for the final, 2.2-mile home stretch of the loop, climbing over the moraine with fine views of Taggart Lake, descending through aspen for excellent Teton views, and continuing past the turnoff to Taggart Lake. ▸8 Return to the now-familiar junction for the Taggart Lake trailhead ▸9 and the parking area. ▸10
Lovely afternoon light on the Bradley Lake Trail, with the Tetons in the distance
CREDIT: Bradley Mayhew
MILESTONES
▸1 0.0 Start at Taggart Lake trailhead parking area
▸2 0.2 Right on Taggart Lake Trail at Beaver Creek Trail junction
▸3 1.3 Left on Valley Trail
▸4 1.6 Left along shore for optional detour to Taggart Lake outlet
▸5 1.9 North (straight ahead) on Valley Trail at Taggart Lake Trail junction
▸6 3.0 Left along shore at Bradley Lake Trail (optional detour)
▸7 3.6 Left on Bradley Lake Trail
▸8 4.5 Straight (southeast) at Cutoff Trail junction
▸9 5.6 Left at junction for Taggart Lake trailhead
▸10 5.8 Return to parking area
TRAIL 36 GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK
Cascade Canyon
TRAIL USE
Hike, Backpack, Horse
LENGTH
9.1 miles, 5–6 hours
VERTICAL FEET
±1,100
DIFFICULTY
– 1 2 3 4 5 +
TRAIL TYPE
Out-and-back
SURFACE TYPE
Dirt
FEATURES
Canyon
Lake
Stream
Waterfall
Autumn Colors
Wildflowers
Wildlife
Cool & Shady
Great Views
Camping
Geologic Interest
FACILITIES
Visitor Center
Ranger Station
Restrooms
Phone
Water
Horse Staging
This challenging extension of the popular Jenny Lake and Moose Ponds loop (see Trail 38) is the park’s most popular and crowded canyon trail. In summer, it’s a bottleneck of sorts, at the confluence of several major climbing and backpacking trails. Thanks to the scenic boat shuttle, it’s also one of the most beautiful and direct routes into the wild heart of the Tetons.
Best Time
Snow can linger in the upper reaches of the canyon until early July. Because they are at relatively low elevation, the lower stretches of the canyon are accessible June–October. Hidden Falls is at its most spectacular early in the season. Afternoon thundershowers, which appear with little warning, are common in the canyon.
Finding the Trail
From the south, follow US 26/89/191 north out of Jackson 8 miles past the park’s southern boundary and turn left at Moose Junction. Continue 1 mile past the visitor center to the Moose Entrance Station. Go 7 miles north on Teton Park Road and turn left at the South Jenny Lake Junction. Follow the signs for the East Shore Boat Dock another 0.5 mile (making a couple of right turns) through the developed area around the visitor center/ranger station to arrive at the trailhead parking area. From the north, starting at Jackson Lake Junction, take Teton Park Road 12.5 miles south (past North Jenny Lake Junction) and turn right into the South Jenny Lake parking area.
Teewinot comes from the Shoshone word meaning “many pinnacles.” The name is thought to have once applied to the entire Teton range.
Logistics
Jenny Lake’s parking lots often fill to capacity in midsummer. Arrive as early as possible to find a space. The area around the Jenny Lake Visitor Center was rebuilt in 2016 and 2017, with new lakeshore viewing areas (“viewing nodes”) and updated facilities.
Lake
Taking a seasonal shuttle boat across Jenny Lake cuts out the first 2 miles of hiking in each direction. Catch the first boat to beat the crowds to the falls. Jenny Lake Boating shuttles depart Jenny Lake’s East Shore Boat Dock for the Cascade Canyon trailhead dock every 15 minutes daily, weather permitting, between May 15 and early September. From June to early September, hours of operation are 7 a.m.– 7 p.m., with service reduced to 10 a.m.–4 p.m. during May. Fares are $9 one-way or $15 round-trip for passengers ages 11 and older, and $6 one-way or $8 round-trip for children ages 2–11. Starting in June, you can also rent canoes and kayaks ($20 per hour or $75 per day). A one-hour lake cruise costs $19 for adults and $11 for children and runs a couple of times a day. Call 307-734-9227 or see jennylake boating.com for schedules.
In summer, rangers lead interpretive hikes from the Jenny Lake Visitor Center to Hidden Falls and Inspiration Point, which can cause some crowding on the main trails. Little-used horse trails provide less-crowded alternatives.
Rangers lead guided hikes to Inspiration Point via the boat shuttle daily at 8:30 a.m. A maximum of 25 hikers are accepted, so arrive early at the Jenny Lake Visitor Center to sign up.
Trail Description
From the parking area near the visitor center, ▸1 follow signs to the East Shore Boat Dock, on the southeast end of the lake. ▸2 During the high season, you can catch a shuttle boat for the scenic, 12-minute ride across the lake to the West Shore Boat Dock, ▸3 where there are no visitor services.
Viewpoint
Waterfall 
Once on the opposite side of the lake, follow signs to your left (south) for a couple hundred yards along the well-beaten paths to the signed Jenny Lake Loop Trail junction. ▸4 Turn right (west) on the middle trail at the four-way intersection to follow a path that parallels the north side of Cascade Creek before crossing over it on a footbridge. Follow signs to the viewpoint of the 200-foot Hidden Falls, ▸5 tucked away in a spruce–fir forest behind a split-rail fence. This section of trail was under reconstruction in 2016 but should have reopened by 2017.
Viewpoint
Heading back toward the lake and away from the falls, turn left and follow signs across a bridge over Cascade Creek. Soon you start the 0.4-mile climb (also signed for Cascade Canyon) to Inspiration Point (7,200 feet) ▸6 for sweeping views east across the Snake River Valley to the Gros Ventre Range and back west to the Cathedral Group: Teewinot Mountain (12,325 feet); the Grand Teton (13,770 feet); and Mount Owen (12,928 feet), the second-highest peak in the Teton Range. This section of trail was rebuilt in 2016 with rock helicoptered in from Idaho.
OPTIONS
North and South Forks of Cascade Canyon
You can extend this hike into an overnight trip by getting a backcountry permit for either the North Fork or South Fork Cascade Canyon camping zones, which start just beyond the trail fork near the head of the canyon.
The South Fork, usually snow-free by mid-July, gains 2,600 feet over 5.1 scenic miles en route to Hurricane Pass (10,372 feet) on the park’s western boundary.
The North Fork climbs a gentler 1,200 feet in 2.7 miles to the eastern shore of 50-acre Lake Solitude (9,035 feet), a misnomer for this striking and extremely popular destination. If you plan on camping, you can take the two-day Cascade Canyon–Paintbrush Divide and Canyon route—the park’s most popular high-country loop—which gains 3,850 feet over 19.2 miles.
Skipping the Shuttle Boat
If the boats aren’t running or you’d rather skip the shuttle, it’s a straightforward, flat, and well-signed 2-mile walk around the southern and western lakeshore via the Valley Trail or Hidden Falls Horse Trail to reach Hidden Falls (see Trail 38).
In summer, rangers lead interpretive hikes from the Jenny Lake Visitor Center to Hidden Falls, which can cause some crowding on the main trails. An infrequently used horse trail that starts north of the West Shore Boat Dock skips the crowded area around Hidden Falls and intersects with the Cascade Canyon Trail a few hundred yards above Inspiration Point.
Canyon 
Most casual visitors do not make it beyond Inspiration Point, so the farther you go up the canyon, the more peaceful things should become. Begin the gradual, gentle 0.6-mile climb—past the horse bypass trail intersection—to the mouth of the U-shaped Cascade Canyon, ▸7 where the majesty of the mile-high, glacially sculpted walls really begins to sink in.
Several large talus slopes—home to many vocal marmots, as well as pikas—intersect the trail from the right as it follows the north side of Cascade Creek and traverses prime wild-berry habitat. (Look for raspberries, huckleberries, thimbleberries, and grouse whortleberries.) If you can properly identify them, you are welcome to pick small quantities for personal use, but leave some for the critters that frequent the area, too.
Moose migrate up the canyon during the summer and are often spotted browsing around the marshier stretches of Cascade Creek.
Thanks to the sheer canyon walls, you’ll enjoy great views beyond the Douglas-fir canopy all the way up the canyon. Just before the Forks of Cascade Canyon ▸8 junction (look for the huge limber pine specimen), the trail crosses over Cascade Creek on a footbridge and starts to climb more noticeably again. (See Options for a short description of the North and South Fork Trails.)
About 0.3 mile up the North Fork Trail, the Cascade Patrol Cabin makes a nice picnic spot before you do a U-turn and retrace your steps down the canyon to the shuttle boat ▸9 to the East Shore Boat Dock ▸10 and the South Jenny Lake trailhead parking area. ▸11
MILESTONES
▸1 0.0 Start at South Jenny Lake parking area
▸2 0.1 Visitor center and East Shore Boat Dock
▸3 0.1 Shuttle boat to West Shore Boat Dock
▸4 0.3 Jenny Lake Loop Trail junction
▸5 0.6 Hidden Falls
▸6 1.0 Inspiration Point
▸7 1.6 Enter Cascade Canyon
▸8 4.5 Forks of Cascade Canyon
▸9 9.0 Back at West Shore Boat Dock
▸10 9.0 Shuttle boat to East Shore Boat Dock
▸11 9.1 Return to South Jenny Lake parking area
TRAIL 37 GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK
Hermitage Point
TRAIL USE
Hike, Backpack, Horse
LENGTH
9.4 miles, 4–6 hours
VERTICAL FEET
±150
DIFFICULTY
– 1 2 3 4 5 +
TRAIL TYPE
Loop
SURFACE TYPE
Mixed
FEATURES
Child Friendly
Lake
Wildflowers
Birds
Wildlife
Cool & Shady
Great Views
Photo Opportunity
Camping
FACILITIES
Visitor Center
Restrooms
Picnic Tables
Phone
Water
Boat Launch
Horse Staging
This easygoing but rewarding shoreline jaunt leaves the crowds at Colter Bay behind. The forested habitat is ever-changing, and the views across Jackson Lake are amazing. It’s a flexible route, too: add an overnight at one of the park’s best low-elevation campgrounds for the perfect first-time backcountry adventure.
Best Time
The trail is hikable mid-May–October. In the hottest months of the summer, it’s most enjoyable in the early morning or late afternoon. Dawn and dusk are the best times for spotting wildlife. Sunset behind the Tetons is magical from Colter Bay.
Finding the Trail
From the south, head north out of Jackson on US 26/89/191 for 26 miles past the park’s southern boundary. At Moran Junction, turn left onto US 26/287, go 4 miles past the park entrance station, and bear right at Jackson Lake Junction. Turn left into Colter Bay Village, 5.2 miles beyond Jackson Lake Junction. Follow the signs 1 mile to the Colter Bay Visitor Center. The visitor center is just to the right of the final T-junction; the marina and trailhead are to your left.
Park near the boat ramp at the marina. The trailhead is in the southeast corner of the large parking area, between the boat ramp and the nondescript brown pump house.
Beavers are busy at Heron Pond; Mount Moran looms in the background.
Logistics
All the trail junctions described here are signed; ignore the numerous unmarked junctions with horse trails and unofficial trails. There are public restrooms near the trailhead at the visitor center and marina. Pick up a free trail map from the box at the service-road entrance gate.
Trail Description
From the trailhead, ▸1 follow the wide gravel service road past the gate and along the shore overlooking the marina while soaking up the views across Colter Bay to Mount Moran (12,605 feet). At the end of the service road, stay right at the first trail junction. ▸2 The route turns into a singletrack trail and enters a mixed lodgepole pine and fir forest.
Viewpoint
A few hundred yards farther along, your next option is to turn right on the Jackson Lake Overlook Trail ▸3 or forge ahead on the flat route. If you’re in the mood and have the gumption, it’s well worth the short, gentle ascent and the slightly longer loop to take in the breezy views from the sagebrush meadow atop the knoll. Jackson Lake is actually obscured by pines, but there’s a nice panorama of the Teton Range. The overlook route rejoins the lower trail after 0.5 mile, just before the north end of lily-laden, yellow-green Heron Pond. ▸4
Lake
After skirting the edge of the pond and passing several unmarked spurs leading down toward the shoreline, make a hard right 1.4 miles beyond the trailhead at the four-way trail junction. ▸5 The trail hugs the pond’s southern shore, bringing you close enough to see beavers working on their lodges and to hear the ducks, pelicans, and Canada geese splashing about. Dense lodgepole stands obscure the lake from view until you reach the Colter Bay cutoff trail junction at 2.2 miles, ▸6 beyond which most of the horses and crowds disappear.
Birds 
At the junction, follow the right fork along the peninsula, and watch for tantalizing glimpses of the Teton Range across the lake to your right. A small grove of majestic, towering aspens appears on the left just before the views really open up. After what seems like much longer than a mile, the dense, dog-hair forest finally gives way to sagebrush meadows and, on clear days, truly grand views.
Viewpoint
OPTIONS
Kid-Friendly Shortcuts
If you have little ones in tow or want to opt out of the longer loop midway, there are three opportunities to cut the hike short, using signed cutoff trails to return to Colter Bay. You can loop back around at the north end of Heron Pond (2 miles round-trip via the Jackson Lake Overlook) or the south end of Heron Pond (2.6 miles round-trip), or make a longer loop about 0.8 mile beyond Heron Pond by taking the Colter Bay cutoff trail (5.4 miles round-trip).
The mercifully undeveloped Hermitage Point ▸7 is breezy, but when it’s sunny it can be a wonderful place for a picnic amidst the fragrant sagebrush. Many unofficial trails lead to all manner of photo opportunities around the point.
Camping 
Afterward, proceed 0.5 mile from the sign on the far side of the point, past a short spur trail to the Hermitage Point campground, ▸8 one of the park’s nicest low-elevation backcountry campsites. It’s perfectly perched above the shoreline 4.9 miles from the trailhead, though a bit exposed; this gives it stunning, 180-degree views. The site fronts a placid bay that harbors tons of birdlife—bring your binoculars.
Immediately beyond the campground, the trail climbs away from the lake, straight up a moraine wall to an overlook, then drops through mixed-fir forest and more sagebrush meadow to the east end of the previously seen Colter Bay cutoff trail. ▸9
Wildlife 
At this juncture, the cutoff saves no distance, so forge ahead on the main trail alongside Third Creek. Watch for moose lurking in the willows and raptors soaring against the backdrop of the Teton Wilderness to the east.
Just below the southeast arm of Swan Lake, turn left at the signed junction for the Heron Pond Trail. ▸10 Crest a small, forested rise, and then drop down past a glimpse of Swan Lake to a now-familiar four-way junction at Heron Pond. ▸11
Birds
Take a hard right (not the path you followed previously along the shore of the pond), and head north over a gentle rise and 0.3 mile down to the west shore of Swan Lake. The lake is named after a pair of rare and endangered trumpeter swans who have abided here for two decades. The couple have yet to produce any offspring but have been observed defending their nesting patch from other swans. Other creatures that share the lake’s resources include beavers, moose, elk, deer, herons, cranes, and less-showy birds.
Wildlife
After you travel north along the lakeshore for almost a mile and take in the lake and its gregarious inhabitants, make a soft left toward Colter Bay at yet another well-signed four-way junction. ▸12 Merge right onto the service road ▸13 to finish the loop at the Colter Bay/Hermitage Point trailhead parking area. ▸14
MILESTONES
▸1 0.0 Start at Hermitage Point trailhead
▸2 0.2 Right at first junction
▸3 0.4 Right at Jackson Lake Overlook Trail (optional)
▸4 1.0 Right at north end of Heron Pond to rejoin main trail
▸5 1.4 Hard right at four-way trail junction
▸6 2.2 Right at Colter Bay cutoff trail junction
▸7 4.4 Left around Hermitage Point
▸8 4.9 Straight past Hermitage Point campground
▸9 6.6 Right past cutoff trail junction
▸10 7.3 Left on Heron Pond Trail at Swan Lake junction
▸11 7.8 Right at Heron Pond four-way junction to Swan Lake
▸12 8.7 Soft left at four-way junction to Colter Bay
▸13 Right on service road to Colter Bay/Hermitage Point trailhead
▸14 9.4 Return to parking area
TRAIL 38 GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK
Jenny Lake and Moose Ponds
TRAIL USE
Hike, Horse
LENGTH
7.0 miles, 3–4 hours
VERTICAL FEET
±525
DIFFICULTY
– 1 2 3 4 5 +
TRAIL TYPE
Loop
SURFACE TYPE
Paved, Dirt
FEATURES
Child Friendly
Handicap Accessible
Lake
Waterfall
Autumn Colors
Birds
Wildlife
Cool & Shady
Great Views
Photo Opportunity
Geologic Interest
FACILITIES
Visitor Center
Restrooms
Picnic Tables
Phone
Water
Horse Staging
Grand Teton’s most popular day hike deserves all the accolades heaped upon it, but the route also suffers from the overcrowding the attention brings. The wide, well-maintained trail skirts the shoreline of the park’s second-largest lake and is almost completely flat. An optional shuttle boat (one-way or round-trip) goes most of the way to the photogenic focal point, Hidden Falls.
Best Time
It can be impossible to find parking around noon in summer, so aim to arrive early, or consider a late-afternoon start. When the shuttle boats are running, the trail is much less crowded, and your chances of seeing wildlife increase exponentially. The loop around the lake is hikable May–October and is a good, snow-free early- or late-season option.
Finding the Trail
From the south, take US 26/89/191 north out of Jackson 8 miles past the park’s southern boundary and turn left at Moose Junction. Continue 1 mile past the visitor center to the Moose Entrance Station. Go 7 miles north and turn left at the South Jenny Lake Junction. Follow the signs for the East Shore Boat Dock another 0.5 mile (making a couple of right turns) through the developed area around the visitor center and ranger station to arrive at the trailhead parking area. From the north, starting at Jackson Lake Junction, take Teton Park Road 12.5 miles south (past North Jenny Lake Junction) and turn right at the South Jenny Lake junction.
Jenny Lake and Cascade Canyon
CREDIT: Bradley Mayhew
Seasonal shuttle boats depart Jenny Lake’s East Shore Boat Dock for the Cascade Canyon trailhead dock every 15 minutes daily, weather permitting, between May 15 and early September. From June 1 to September 15, hours of operation are 7 a.m.– 7 p.m., with service reduced to 10 a.m.–4 p.m. in May and the second half of September.
Fares are $9 one-way or $15 round-trip for passengers ages 11 and older, and $6 one-way or $8 round-trip for children ages 2–11. Call 307-734-9227 or visit jennylakeboating.com for more information.
Alternatively, you can set up a car shuttle by leaving a vehicle at the String Lake trailhead to avoid the final 2.9-mile stretch that parallels the road.
The terminal moraine around Jenny Lake was deposited by a glacier flowing out of Cascade Canyon during the Pinedale Glaciation period, which ended around 10,000 years ago.
Trail Description
From the East Shore Boat Dock ▸1 near the visitor center, head out toward the Tetons around the southwest side of Jenny Lake (6,783 feet). You’ll cross Cottonwood Creek on a footbridge soon after passing the boat-launch area. The wide trail here may feel more like a highway, especially if the shuttle boat is not running.
Just beyond the Moose Ponds Loop Trail junction ▸2, the trail forks at an unsigned junction. Take the high route, ▸3 an unsigned horse trail, for better views and to avoid the crowds. As the trail winds up above the lakeshore, there are several scenic viewpoints looking back out to the east across the lake to Jackson Hole. The lower, more crowded Valley Trail follows the lakeshore.
After 1.3 mile the trail’s forks reunite near the spur trails leading to the West Shore Boat Dock. ▸4 If you wish to cut your hike short for some reason here, you can catch the shuttle boat back across the lake to the visitor center. Otherwise, follow the signs a few hundred yards to the base of 200-foot Hidden Falls, ▸5 which is really a cascade (a series of small falls) instead of one free-falling torrent of water. Semantics aside, it still exerts that romantic, mesmerizing effect unique to pristine falling water.
Picknicking is prohibited near Hidden Falls and Inspiration Point due to past problems with people feeding black bears and squirrels.
The area below the falls is a well-signed maze of well-beaten paths. Follow the signs for Cascade Canyon to avoid ending up at the boat dock.
Waterfall
Heading back toward the lake from the base of the falls, the well-marked trail crosses over Cascade Creek on a bridge at the mouth of the U-shaped canyon and ascends along the north side of the creek. It’s well worth a bit of exertion to climb the 0.4 mile beyond the falls to Inspiration Point (7,200 feet). ▸6
Note: If crowds look like they might pose a problem along the narrow trail to Inspiration Point, you can head a couple hundred yards north (right) from the boat dock and look for a horse trail that heads directly for the Cascade Canyon Trail. When it rejoins the main footpath, backtrack down the canyon (to the left) a few hundred yards to reach Inspiration Point.
Viewpoint
After retracing your steps down from Inspiration Point back toward the boat dock, the Jenny Lake Trail (also known as the Valley Trail) hugs the lakeshore through a severe burn area, the aftermath of the lightning-sparked Alder Fire that consumed more than 300 acres in 1999. A few hundred yards beyond a scenic viewpoint, pause where a stream called Ribbon Cascade tumbles off the hillside to look up Hanging Canyon.
Look back up Cascade Canyon, to your left, for a glimpse of the Cathedral Group—from left to right: Teewinot Mountain (12,325 feet), the Grand Teton (13,770 feet), and Mount Owen (12,928 feet). In Hanging Canyon, a steep, unofficial (unmarked and unmaintained) climbers’ trail gains 2,700 feet in less than 3 miles as it picks its way through boulder fields and climbs up the glacier-carved canyon past Rams-head Lake to Lake of the Crags, an imposing cirque.
Shuttle Boat
You can shortcut the first 2 miles of the hike by catching a shuttle boat across the lake to the West Shore Boat Dock. If you ride the boat in both directions, the round-trip hike to Hidden Falls and Inspiration Point is only 2 miles total. If you only want to take the shuttle boat one way, try starting at the String Lake trailhead near Jenny Lake Lodge and looping southwest around the less-trodden west shore, which cuts out the two most crowded miles.
Moose Ponds Loop
Done by itself from the East Shore Boat Dock, the 3-mile Moose Ponds Loop is a very pleasant, lightly traveled 90-minute outing. Four-tenths of a mile beyond the trailhead, drop down a moraine to your left from the overview point to the Moose Ponds. These three ponds and adjacent marshes at the base of Teewinot Mountain offer a good chance to spot some waterfowl and wildlife, especially in the early morning or late evening. Willows, aspens, and wildflowers abound as you first approach the ponds. On the far (south) side of the ponds, the trail passes through a mature mixed subalpine fir and Engelmann spruce forest. Either retrace your steps or follow the trail as it loops around the last pond, through the sagebrush flats in Lupine Meadows, to end up back near the South Jenny Lake parking area.
Cascade Canyon
Intrepid adventurers will want to continue upstream from Hidden Falls and Inspiration Point to the Forks of Cascade Canyon (an extra 9 miles round-trip, 3–4 hours, and 1,000 feet of elevation gain), a strenuous climb to views of the Cathedral Group. See Trail 36 for a full description.
Jenny Lake was named in 1872 by the Hayden Geological Survey, after the Shoshone wife of pioneering trapper and guide Beaver Dick Leigh.
You shouldn’t encounter many hikers again until the String Lake trailhead junction ▸7. Soon after the junction, the trail cuts away from the lakeshore and crosses a footbridge over the rapids between String Lake and Jenny Lake ▸8 near the String Lake parking lot.
Along the final 2.9-mile stretch, the Teton views are impressive, but the traffic noise on the adjacent one-way scenic drive drowns out any illusion that you are in a pristine natural area. The trail hugs the eastern shore of Jenny Lake as it weaves in and out of lodgepole pine forest before ending up back at the South Jenny Lake parking area. ▸9
MILESTONES
▸ 1 0.0 Start at visitor center and East Shore Boat Dock
▸ 2 0.4 Right at Moose Ponds Trail junction
▸ 3 0.7 Fork left onto unsigned Hidden Falls Horse Trail
▸ 4 2.0 Left at West Shore Boat Dock cutoff
▸ 5 2.2 Hidden Falls
▸ 6 2.6 Inspiration Point
▸ 7 3.8 Right at the trail junction
▸ 8 4.1 Right after bridge over Jenny Lake inlet
▸ 9 7.0 Return to South Jenny Lake parking area
TRAIL 39 GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK
Laurance S. Rockefeller Preserve
TRAIL USE
Hike
LENGTH
3.0 miles, 1.5–2 hours
VERTICAL FEET
±250
DIFFICULTY
– 1 2 3 4 5 +
TRAIL TYPE
Loop
SURFACE TYPE
Dirt
This charming new addition to the park encourages visitors to explore one of the most wildlife-rich and scenic low-elevation areas of the Tetons. It’s a lovely introduction to the full spectrum of Tetons ecosystems. The trails gently climb across ecotones, from sageland to woodlands and wetlands, before arriving at stunningly serene, 525-acre Phelps Lake.
Best Time
The preserve’s trails are shaded enough to make the hiking pleasant any time of day, although early morning and late afternoon are the most serene times. As with other relatively low-elevation areas around Jackson Hole, snow can linger into June. Wildflowers pop up soon after the snowmelt, and birdlife is most diverse in early summer. Autumn colors peak in late August and early September.
Finding the Trail
From south of the park in the town of Jackson, head 1 mile southwest through town on US 26/89/191 to the WY 22 junction. Turn right and go west 4.5 miles to WY 390 (Moose Wilson Road). Turn right and go 7 miles north, past Teton Village and Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. Continue north through the park’s Granite Canyon Entrance Station, where the road turns to dirt and is rough in patches; proceed 4.5 miles north, 1.75 miles past the Granite Canyon trailhead, and turn right down a gravel road, passing through a well-signed, ranch-style entrance gate for the Laurance S. Rockefeller (LSR) Preserve.
FEATURES
Child Friendly
Lake
Stream
Autumn Colors
Wildflowers
Birds
Wildlife
Cool & Shady
Great Views
Photo Opportunity
Secluded
FACILITIES
Visitor Center
Restrooms
Picnic Tables
From the north, look for the junction with Teton Park Road across from the visitor center in Moose. Drive south 3.5 miles on a narrow, winding, paved but scenic stretch of Moose Wilson Road and turn left at the signed preserve turnoff. RVs, trailers, and vehicles more than 23 feet long are not allowed on Moose Wilson Road.
Logistics
Get to the preserve before 10 a.m. to ensure a parking spot, as cars are strictly limited to 50. Pick up a preserve trail map on arrival. Rangers lead free guided hikes to Phelps Lake daily at 9:30 a.m.; make a reservation by calling 307-739-3654. If the weather turns foul, you could do worse than to curl up with a book in the lodgelike reading room of the LEED-certified (Platinum-rated) visitor center; open June–September, daily, 8 a.m.–5 p.m. Kids ages 6–12 can pick up a Native Explorers backpack full of activities at the visitor center. There is also a daily talk on Laurance Rockefeller at 10 a.m.
Early or late in the season, inquire about trail conditions at the Craig Thomas Discovery & Visitor Center in Moose.
Trail Description
From the preserve visitor center, ▸1 head west through a sagebrush meadow across a seasonal stream on a footbridge, passing the park’s only wheelchair-accessible waterfall. After 0.1 mile, fork right at the signed Lake Creek–Woodland Trail junction, ▸2 just beyond a bridged crossing of Lake Creek. Dads can enjoy teaching their kids about the signposted “rock snot” here.
Wildlife
Just uphill, pass through a split-rail fence and watch for traffic as you cross Moose Wilson Road ▸3 (no parking allowed), where the mixed spruce, fir, and lodgepole pine forest starts to take over as you climb gently. Watch carefully here for owls, moose, elk, deer, and even signs of bears. Sharp eyes may notice the faint traces of the decommissioned JY Ranch road, which the trail crisscrosses and roughly parallels.
Teton vistas contrast with a crystal-clear sky.
Birds
Lake
Viewpoint
Colorful stands of aspen, cottonwood, and Rocky Mountain maple and huckleberry fill out the mixed forest’s lush understory and provide good bird-watching opportunities. After passing the signed Boulder Ridge Trail junction, the trail flattens out a bit before a final, gentle ascent to a four-way junction, near the southern shore of Phelps Lake (6,633 feet). ▸4 Turn left and wind along the lakeshore, crossing the lake’s cascading outlet on finely crafted bridges, and then seek out a rough-cut log bench or scenic picnic spot around the LEED-certified restrooms tucked away just off the lakeshore.
Detour: If you’re not ready to head home, the Phelps Lake Trail continues west, meandering along the lakeshore 0.7 mile to secluded Huckleberry Point, with metal boardwalks spanning seasonal marsh wetlands en route.
To return to the trailhead, turn left away from the lakeshore on Lake Creek Trail, at a three-way junction ▸5 to begin the gradual descent past the former JY Ranch site—watch for a large, open meadow on your right as the trail begins to closely parallel Lake Creek. A trail sign at the southern end of this meadow marks the start of the final, scenic 1.1-mile stretch back to the visitor center, once again crossing Moose Wilson Road. ▸6
NOTES
The Rockefeller Conservation Legacy
Valued at $160 million, the 1,106-acre Laurance S. Rockefeller (LSR) Preserve was donated to the National Park Service (NPS) in 2001 but was opened to the public only in late 2007. The property was the final parcel of the 3,100-acre Rockefeller summer family retreat, purchased by John D. Rockefeller in 1932, and was originally home to the pioneering JY Ranch, Jackson Hole’s first dude ranch (circa 1907). Between 2004 and 2007, 30 buildings, as well as roads, utilities, and other outbuildings were removed in an effort to remove all traces of human presence, and developed areas were reclaimed to blend with the natural landscape. Several of the structures, including the oldest cabins and dining and recreation buildings, were relocated to another Rockefeller property outside the park. The remaining structures were donated to the NPS for housing and service facilities within the park. Other ongoing restoration projects within the preserve include wildlife habitat enhancement, nonnative vegetation eradication, and reconnection of fragmented wetlands. The idea behind the preserve is to focus on the contemplative, spiritual side of the landscape, reflecting Rockefeller’s own belief in the restorative power of nature.
▸1 0.0 Start at the LSR Preserve visitor center trailhead
▸2 0.1 Fork right at Lake Creek–Woodland Trail junction
▸3 0.2 Cross Moose Wilson Road (no parking)
▸4 0.9 Left at junction near southern shore of Phelps Lake
▸5 1.3 Left at Lake Creek Trail junction
▸6 3.0 Return to LSR Preserve visitor center
OPTIONS
Route Options
The longer Aspen Ridge and Boulder Ridge loops, which fork off the main Woodland and Lake Creek Trails, trace glacial ridges and include more strenuous terrain. Neither sees a great deal of traffic. The scenic Phelps Lake loop, which connects via the Valley Trail with the Phelps Lake Trail, is 7 miles long and takes about four hours.
TRAIL 40 GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK
Leigh, Bearpaw, and Trapper Lakes
TRAIL USE
Hike, Backpack, Horse
LENGTH
2.2 miles to Leigh Lake,
8.4 miles to Trapper Lake; 2–3 hours
VERTICAL FEET
Negligible
DIFFICULTY
– 1 2 3 4 5 +
TRAIL TYPE
Out-and-back
SURFACE TYPE
Dirt
FEATURES
Child Friendly
Lake
Autumn Colors
Wildflowers
Birds
Wildlife
Cool & Shady
Great Views
Photo Opportunity
Camping
Swimming
FACILITIES
Restrooms
Picnic Tables
Horse Staging
The easy outing to Leigh Lake is a favorite of families and those looking for a stress-free overnight option. The lake is big enough and just far enough away from the road to feel like it’s in the backcountry, but close enough to attract parents with small children. It’s also a favorite summer swimming hole and popular horseback-riding destination. Campsites around the much smaller and forested Bearpaw and Trapper Lakes provide an extra measure of seclusion but lack the sandy beaches and mountain views.
Best Time
The hike is very pleasant at any time. The snow is usually gone by mid-May, and the trail is passable through October. Swimming is best in July and August. Beware of hypothermia-inducing temperatures in Leigh Lake before the end of June. Early morning is particularly charming here, when the lake is calm, light on the mountains is at its best, and crowds are at their lightest.
Finding the Trail
From the south, take US 26/89/191 north out of Jackson; proceed 8 miles past the park’s southern boundary and turn left at Moose Junction. Continue 1 mile past the visitor center to the Moose Entrance Station. Go 11 miles north and turn left at the North Jenny Lake Junction. Continue 1.5 miles and turn right near Jenny Lake Lodge, just before the road becomes one-way. Follow the signs a few hundred yards to the String Lake Picnic Area parking lot. From the north, starting at Jackson Lake Junction, go 9 miles south on Teton Park Road and turn right at North Jenny Lake Junction. Continue 1.5 miles and turn right into the picnic-area parking lot.
Just below Mount Moran, Falling Ice Glacier often calves frozen blocks into the lake and contributes to Leigh Lake’s unique blue-green tint.
Trail Description
Start from the trailhead (6,875 feet) near the northwest corner of the String Lake Picnic Area parking lot. ▸1 The wide, packed-sand trail sees lots of horse traffic as it starts out through lodgepole pine forest. After a horse trail from Jenny Lake Lodge joins in on the right side, the trail meets the signed canoe portage ▸2 for Leigh Lake, 0.9 mile beyond the trailhead.
From the canoe portage junction, follow the right fork and continue 1.1 miles north along the south shore of Leigh Lake (6,877 feet). ▸3 This is also a good area to forage for berries.
Swimming 
Starting after 1.1 miles, you’ll pass a series of wonderful, white-sand swimming beaches, ▸4 where the views of Mount Moran reflected in the lake are fit for the cover of a box of chocolates.
The glaciers hugging the sides of Mount Moran are up to 100 feet thick.
Camping
Less than a mile farther along the lakeshore, you’ll pass the first of three East Shore campsites (12A, 12B, and 12C), ▸5 all fabulous spots to spend the night and only 3 miles from the trailhead. The first site is for groups only but gets released to nongroups after 3 p.m. They are also very popular with boating families. Each is about a minute’s walk from the other. If you do spend the night here, take proper bear precautions; pitch your tent on a pad, if provided; build fires only in grates; put your food and toiletries in the provided bear boxes or on the poles; and beware of the waves (yes, waves) caused by wind on the lake.
Beyond the head of the lake, past a burn area and opposite a turnoff for the Leigh Lake Patrol Cabin, the trail forks to the right for tree-lined and marshy Bearpaw Lake ▸6 and backcountry campsite 17B. Straight on takes you to lakeshore campsite 17A and nearby 17C. About 0.6 mile farther is Trapper Lake, ▸7 with some views of Mount Moran and one private campsite (18).
Backcountry Campsites
Lake lovers and anglers will want to continue on to Bearpaw and Trapper Lakes and possibly even bushwhack a bit to reach remote Bearpaw Bay or Little Grassy Island campsites on the south shore of Jackson Lake. Be particularly aware of grizzlies if you tackle this off-trail section. It’s also possible to hike to campsites 13 and 15 on an unmaintained trail just after the bridge crossing at the String Lake inlet, near the portage sign. Note that the Leigh Lake backcountry campsites are among the park’s most popular, so try to reserve these before May 15.
Leigh Lake is lined with private beaches and lovely backcountry campsites.
CREDIT: Bradley Mayhew
Thirsty horses drink from crystal-clear Leigh Lake.
CREDIT: Bradley Mayhew
If you can pull yourself away, retrace your steps to the String Lake parking area. ▸8
MILESTONES
▸1 0.0 Start at String Lake Picnic Area parking lot
▸2 0.9 Right at Leigh Lake Trail junction (canoe portage)
▸3 1.1 Leigh Lake
▸4 2.2 Sandy beach
▸5 3.0 East Shore (12-series) campsites
▸6 3.7 Right at Bearpaw Lake junction (3.9 to Bearpaw Lake)
▸7 4.2 Trapper Lake
▸8 8.4 Return to String Lake parking lot
TRAIL 41 GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK
Phelps Lake
TRAIL USE
Hike, Backpack, Horse
LENGTH
4.0 miles, 2–3 hours
VERTICAL FEET
±420 to overlook, ±850 to lake
DIFFICULTY
– 1 2 3 4 5 +
TRAIL TYPE
Out-and-back
SURFACE TYPE
Dirt
FEATURES
Child Friendly
Lake
Stream
Autumn Colors
Wildflowers
Birds
Wildlife
Cool & Shady
Great Views
Photo Opportunity
Camping
Swimming
Geologic Interest
FACILITIES
Restrooms
Horse Staging
Beyond the scenic overlook of the park’s fourth-largest lake, this rewarding route provides access to a group of three charming lakefront campsites that feel miles from the trailhead. Wildflowers, trout, moose, and black bears are abundant. Reserve campsites as far ahead as possible for this popular, family-friendly overnighter.
Best Time
Snow usually disappears from the trail by mid-June. Wildflowers appear soon after the snowmelt, and bird-watching is most diverse in early summer. Autumn colors peak in late August and early September. There’s enough shade to make the trail pleasant any time of day.
Finding the Trail
From south of the park in the town of Jackson, head 1 mile southwest through town on US 26/89/191 to the WY 22 junction. Turn right and go west 4.5 miles to WY 390 (Moose Wilson Road). Turn right and go 7 miles north, past Teton Village and Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. Continue north through the park’s Granite Canyon Entrance Station, where the road turns to dirt; proceed 5 miles north, past the Granite Canyon trailhead, and turn left on a paved road signed for Death Canyon. Bear left after 0.3 mile: the pavement ends after 0.5 mile, and the rough, one-lane dirt road (no trailers or mobile homes allowed) gets worse for the next mile until it passes a larger parking area (best for low-clearance vehicles). There are parking spots all along the road until it dead-ends soon after at the crowded trailhead parking area near the White Grass Ranger Station.
OPTIONS
Granite Canyon Car Shuttle
If you have two cars, you can extend the hike into a 6.1-mile point-to-point outing by leaving a vehicle at the signed Granite Canyon trailhead (6,356 feet), on the west side of Moose Wilson Road, just north of the Granite Canyon Entrance Station.
Long-Distance Backpacking Routes
Popular overnight backpacking options that use the Death Canyon trailhead en route to the Teton Crest Trail include the 19.3-mile loop from Granite Canyon via Open Canyon; a 24.8-mile (one or two nights) route to Jenny Lake via Static Peak Divide; a more challenging 29.5-mile (two or three nights) route to the String Lake Picnic Area; a 25.7-mile (two nights) loop to Granite Canyon trailhead; and the demanding 36-mile (four nights) trip to String Lake via Paintbrush Canyon. Download or pick up a Backcountry Planning brochure (tinyurl.com/gtnp backcountrybrochure) for details.
From the north, look for the junction with Teton Park Road across from the Moose Visitor Center. Drive south 3 miles on a narrow, winding, paved but scenic stretch of Moose Wilson Road and turn right at the signed Death Canyon Trailhead Road junction.
Trail Description
From the Death Canyon trailhead (6,780 feet) near the seasonal White Grass Ranger Station, ▸1 keep left at the signed Valley Trail T-junction, ▸2 0.1 mile beyond the parking area.
For the next 0.8 mile, the well-beaten path—once a popular horseback-riding route for dudes staying at the White Grass Ranch—rises gradually through meadows, mixed-conifer forest, and colorful groves of aspens, crossing a couple of streams flush with thimbleberries. Ignore all the unmarked horse trails that intersect the trail as it climbs to the overlook.
Geologic-Interest 
Once atop the lateral moraine—deposited more than 15,000 years ago by a mass of ice pouring out of Death Canyon—there are nice picnic spots tucked among the boulders to the left, and good views over the lake to the Jackson Hole valley from the Phelps Lake Overlook (7,200 feet). ▸3
Viewpoint
For an easy, hourlong outing, some folks prefer to turn back here and return to the trailhead. To experience the variety of habitats around the lake-shore and for a better look up the glacial, U-shaped canyon, follow the switchbacks down the steeper, southern face of the moraine 0.7 mile to the Death Canyon Trail junction. ▸4
Camping
Birds
The spur trail for the three lovely campsites perched above the lake’s northern shore branches off to the left from the Phelps Lake Trail just beyond the Death Canyon Trail junction. For fishing access and some good bird-watching, continue south along the western lakeshore after crossing Death Creek on a footbridge, and follow a side trail down to the shore and inlet of Phelps Lake. ▸5 Retrace your steps back to the trailhead parking area. ▸6
MILESTONES
▸1 0.0 Start at Death Canyon (White Grass) trailhead
▸2 0.1 Left at Valley Trail T-junction
▸3 0.9 Phelps Lake Overlook
▸4 1.6 Left at Death Canyon Trail junction
▸5 2.0 Phelps Lake
▸6 4.0 Return to trailhead parking area
TRAIL 42 GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK
Rendezvous Mountain to Granite Canyon
TRAIL USE
Hike, Backpack, Horse
LENGTH
12.4 miles, 6–8 hours
VERTICAL FEET
+400/–4,100
DIFFICULTY
– 1 2 3 4 5 +
TRAIL TYPE
Loop
SURFACE TYPE
Dirt
FEATURES
Canyon
Mountain
Summit
Steep
Stream
Autumn Colors
Wildflowers
Birds
Wildlife
Great Views
Photo Opportunity
Camping
Geologic Interest
FACILITIES
Visitor Center
Restrooms
Phone
Water
Where else in the United States can you fill your lungs with such rarefied alpine air without breaking a sweat? This route is spectacular—and 95% downhill—so it gets traffic whenever the weather is decent and the tram is in service. No other trail gives you a taste of Teton’s upper canyons while only demanding a downhill stroll in return.
Best Time
The tram operates Memorial Day–late September, but inclement weather can halt operations, and snow can linger around Rendezvous Peak through July. Catch the first tram so you can enjoy a picnic lunch along the way and have plenty of time to hang out along the creek in the canyon. Better yet, reserve a backcountry campsite and make it an overnight trip. Fall colors peak around the autumnal equinox (September 21).
Finding the Trail
From Jackson, head 1 mile south on US 26/89/191 to the WY 22 junction. Turn right and go west 4.5 miles to WY 390 (Moose Wilson Road). Turn right and head north 7 miles to Teton Village and Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. Turn left into the parking area and follow the signs to the aerial tram ticket booth. From the Moose Visitor Center, drive south 8 miles on Moose Wilson Road, past the Granite Canyon trailhead and Granite Canyon Entrance Station to Teton Village.
Horses are not allowed between the tram and the Middle Fork CutOff Trail junction, a one-hour to 90-minute hike down. Enjoy the singing mountain songbirds and woodpeckers drumming away.
Logistics
This hike starts outside the park, high above Teton Village (locally known simply as “the Village”) from Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. For details, see jacksonhole.com.
The resort’s aerial tram (round-trip tickets are $42 for adults, $25 for children ages 6–17; free for descent only) runs in summer Memorial Day–late September. Hours of operation vary seasonally: from 9 a.m.–5 p.m. in the low season, and from 9 a.m.–6 p.m. in the high season. The tram runs every half hour and takes 12 minutes to climb more than 4,000 feet to the top of Rendezvous Mountain; see tram-formation.com for details. Pick up a free copy of the Jackson Hole Daily newspaper to score a $5 coupon off the cost of the tram.
High winds and inclement weather can disrupt tram service; contact the resort’s Guest Service Center for updates on current conditions. Call 307-739-2753. If you miss the last tram down from the summit at 6:30 p.m., it’s a long, 7.2-mile walk back down along the service road. Note that weather conditions at the summit are always much cooler and windier than at the base.
Summit 
Viewpoint
Enjoy the expansive views from the aerial tram ▸1 during the ride up Rendezvous Mountain. Upon exiting the tram platform, above treeline at the summit (10,450 feet), ▸2 you can take care of any last-minute needs at Corbet’s Cabin, where there are restrooms, fresh waffles, and hot drinks. Soak up the endless views, check out the Grand Teton in the telescope, and then head left (south) along the ridge down the Summit Trail/service road.
Wildflowers
Tread lightly in this fragile alpine zone: several varieties of delicate alpine wildflowers, lichens, and stunted krummholz Engelmann spruce and white-bark pine flourish in revegetation zones near the trail. Continue straight ahead (not left) at the first signed junction, after 0.4 mile, ▸3 your only chance to bail out and return to Teton Village. Soon after, at the second signed junction, enter Grand Teton National Park by turning right and following the signs for Granite Canyon. ▸4
Detour: A minor trail continues straight at the junction, scrambling up a minor peak to the west, offering a short side trip. The same trail continues southwest to a larger peak, but you don’t really have the time to tackle this summit if you are headed for Granite Canyon.
Wildflowers
The main trail quickly drops into a big cirque aptly called The Bowl. The stunted spruce forest here marks timberline. After a short climb, you enter the Middle/South Fork Granite Canyon camping zone, where the trail crosses several small stream culverts and bisects a wildflower meadow before crossing the South Fork of Granite Creek.
Canyon
After 3.5 miles, beyond the Middle Fork Cut-Off junction, ▸5 follow the ridgeline between the Middle and South Forks of Granite Creek through open meadows down to a spruce–fir forest. A sign announces the end of the Middle Fork camping zone, and then the trail crosses two babbling creek forks on sturdy wooden footbridges. Just beyond the second bridge, look for the Granite Canyon Patrol Cabin off-trail to your left at 5.2 miles (there’s an emergency toilet here). It’s located just before the trail junction for Open Canyon, Marion Lake, and the Teton Crest Trail. ▸6 Turn right (east) here to start the gradual, 4.7-mile descent on the Granite Canyon Trail to the mouth of the canyon.
Loop and Overnight Options
If you’re looking for a scenic workout, you can hike 7.2 miles (4,100 vertical feet) up the service road and ride the aerial tram back down to the base area for free. If the weather looks dodgy up top, you might opt for one of several shorter, well-signed loops around the summit. Or you can extend the trip by adding an overnight at Marion Lake (9,240 feet, 15.9 miles total) or in one of the three designated camping zones along the Granite Canyon Trail.
You can avoid the final dull Valley Trail stretch of the full loop by setting up a car shuttle at the Granite Canyon trail-head, just inside the park along Moose Wilson Road, 2 miles north of Teton Village.
The Uphill Option
You can save some cash by making this hike in reverse, starting at Teton Village, hiking up Granite Canyon, and taking the tram down for free. The catch: You have to ascend 4,100 feet the hard way. Be sure also to check the weather and make sure you catch the last tram down. The initial trail can be tricky to find from the tram in Teton Village, so pick up a resort map to get yourself oriented. Make your way to the Bridger Center and Teewinot lift; then follow the uphill path to the right, crossing a dirt road and the high ropes course, passing a trail-board map en route. Cross a second dirt road at the Après Vous lift, and follow the green signs for the Valley Trail to the signposted border of Grand Teton National Park.
Wildlife
Almost immediately after this junction, the trail enters fragrant forest and the Lower Granite Canyon camping zone, where you’ll pass 10 signposted sites over the next 90 minutes of walking. Several viewpoints high above Granite Creek afford views down to meadows and the canyon mouth. Before the trail eventually drops down alongside the creek, watch for moose and mule deer browsing in meadows—you may even see them foraging side by side.
Snack alert: In early summer, keep an eye out for the ripe, wild, red raspberries on bushes that poke out of rocky slopes and talus fields.
Another sign indicates a group campsite, shortly before the trail passes below a small waterfall on the left and a stock bridge over the resulting stream. The trail drops through sagebrush meadows, past areas signed as closed for regrowth, before leveling off alongside a charming stretch of Granite Creek.
Camping
The cool, breezy lower half of the canyon is often choked with luxuriant vegetation. Ripe, rosy mountain-ash fruits are the most conspicuous eye-catchers. There are a couple of nice riverfront campsites, just before the canyon’s right wall closes in to its narrowest point, opposite a large talus field riddled with raspberry bushes. From here, the trail levels off before a final abrupt descent, which begins where the trail trends away from the creek to exit the canyon.
Yield to moose: In Lower Granite Canyon, I had a surprise encounter with a skittish cow moose and her very peeved bull (and his huge rack), who stared me down where the trail passes through their favorite willow thicket. I was unnerved enough to start singing to myself.
On clear days, the Grand Teton (13,770 feet) is visible to the north from the aerial tram platform atop Rendezvous Mountain.
Don’t be startled by the well-camouflaged grouse that like to jump out of the woods just after the trail drops below treeline.
The impact of heavy horse use becomes more apparent near the canyon mouth as the trail approaches the Valley Trail ▸7 junction after 9.9 miles. The trail forks again 0.1 mile after crossing Granite Creek for the final time on a stock bridge. Beyond this junction, follow signs for the Valley Trail and/or Teton Village, ignoring all unsigned horse trails that join in from the left.
The final 2.4 miles of the Valley Trail is the least appealing section of the entire route. It can be very dusty due to heavy equestrian use, with several mild ups and downs. It’s an anticlimactic ending to an invigorating hike, but it does have some nice panoramas across Jackson Hole, fine displays of fall color, and deer and quail lying in wait alongside the trail.
Viewpoint
A sign at the park boundary points the way (right) uphill to Teton Village. The trail passes briefly through a maintenance yard, then winds through an aspen grove before reaching a resort service road. Ignore all bike-route signs and turn left on the gravel service road, following the signs past the Après Vous ski lift. Continue down past a number of ski-in trophy houses and the Four Seasons lodge to arrive at the base of the tram in the Village. ▸8
MILESTONES
▸1 0.0 Start at Teton Village–Jackson Hole Mountain Resort parking area; buy tickets and board aerial tram
▸2 0.0 Exit tram platform and walk left on Rendezvous Mountain Trail
▸3 0.4 Straight (not left) at junction for Teton Village parking area
▸4 0.5 Right at Grand Teton National Park boundary
▸5 3.5 Right at Middle Fork Cut-Off junction
▸6 5.2 Right at Granite Canyon Patrol Cabin
▸7 9.9 Right at Valley Trail junction
▸8 12.4 Return to Teton Village
NOTES
Peak Après-Hike Experiences
When you return to civilization, why not stop for a drink? If you’re feeling very civilized, drop in at the stylish yet informal Ascent Lounge at the Four Seasons, conveniently located next to the trail as it descends to the resort’s base area.
For a less refined atmosphere, pop into the Mangy Moose Restaurant and Saloon, near the bottom of the tram in Teton Village, for some live music, a free-range buffalo burger, or, best of all, a frosty pint of Moose Drool. Call 307-733-9779 or see mangymoose.com to check the live music schedule.
If you are here on a Sunday in July or August, time your hike with one of the free weekly music concerts that take place next to the tram. See concertsoncommons.com for the current lineup.
TRAIL 43 GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK
String Lake
This is one of the most relaxing and easygoing—and thus very popular—hikes in the park. The nearly flat trail winds through a variety of habitats and traces the shoreline of the smallest in a string of tranquil piedmont lakes, all at the foot of the awe-inspiring Teton Range. Lots of opportunities for swimming and boating make this a great family and warm-weather option.
Best Time
Whenever you can get in and out of the park, this hike is a good choice. There are a couple of short, sunny sections, but most of the route remains cool and shady all day long. Swimming is most enjoyable in July and August, after the lake has warmed up a bit.
Finding the Trail
From the south, take US 26/89/191 north out of Jackson; proceed 8 miles past the park’s southern boundary and turn left at Moose Junction. Continue 1 mile past the visitor center to the Moose Entrance Station. Drive 11 miles north and turn left at North Jenny Lake Junction. Continue 1.5 miles and turn right just before the road becomes one-way. Pass the busy String Lake trailhead parking lot and continue a couple hundred yards to the much larger String Lake Picnic Area parking. From the north, starting at Jackson Lake Junction, go 9 miles south on Teton Park Road and turn right at North Jenny Lake Junction. Continue 1.5 miles and turn right into the trailhead parking lot.
TRAIL USE
Hike, Horse
LENGTH
3.4 miles, 1–2 hours
VERTICAL FEET
±270
DIFFICULTY
– 1 2 3 4 5 +
TRAIL TYPE
Loop
SURFACE TYPE
Dirt, Paved
FEATURES
Child Friendly
Handicap Accessible
Lake
Stream
Autumn Colors
Wildflowers
Wildlife
Cool & Shady
Great Views
Photo Opportunity
Swimming
Geologic Interest
FACILITIES
Restrooms
Picnic Tables
Boat Launch
Horse Staging
Leigh and Jenny Lake Detours
We describe the loop counterclockwise, but you can do it in either direction without increasing the difficulty.
To extend the hike, add an out-and-back detour to the south shore of Leigh Lake (0.4 mile round-trip) or an extension to the north shore of Jenny Lake (0.4 mile round-trip). The backcountry campsites around Leigh Lake are wonderful spots for overnight canoe trips and first-time family wilderness outings. For details, see Trail 40.
Logistics
The String Lake Picnic Area parking has toilets, water, picnic benches, and an area for launching kayaks and canoes. If you plan to use a kayak, canoe, or stand-up paddleboard (SUP) you will need to purchase a $10 permit in advance at a back-country office. If you are bringing in your watercraft from out of state, you will also need a Wyoming Aquatic Invasive Species decal, which costs $5 for Wyoming residents or $15 for nonresidents. No permits are needed for inflatable tubes.
Trail Description
Lake
From the String Lake picnic area, ▸1 the trail quickly turns to packed sand and starts to see horse traffic as it passes through lodgepole pine forest. After a horse trail from Jenny Lake Lodge joins in from the right, the trail meets the canoe portage to Leigh Lake, at 0.8 mile from the trailhead. ▸2
Geologic-Interest
Cross the babbling brook that links Leigh Lake and String Lake via a long, sturdy footbridge. ▸3 Once across the bridge, you can’t help but notice the large glacial erratic boulders. The well-worn footpaths around the rocks aren’t beaten by climbers looking to practice boulder-scaling but by savvy huckleberry seekers who flock here in early summer, trying to beat the bears to their treasure. A tempting seat offers a convenient place to take a break if you need it.
Beyond the berry patches, the trail ducks once again into mature mixed-conifer forest and starts a steady climb up to the String Lake Trail junction, ▸4 where the right fork leads steeply up into Paintbrush Canyon. Take the left branch toward Jenny Lake.
Wildlife
Viewpoint
The trail opens up and traverses a few aspendotted meadows below Rockchuck Peak (11,144 feet) and nearby Mount Saint John as it heads south above the west shore of String Lake, offering fine views. Moose can sometimes be found in the willows here in the early morning hours. Shortly after the trail drops down to the shoreline, it passes through a small burn area. At this point, explorers can make a short side trip to a scenic picnic spot at Laurel Lake (7,625 feet). Before the trail crosses a footbridge over a feeder stream, follow an unmarked but well-worn path to the right, which climbs uphill about 0.5 mile to the tiny lake.
Stream 
Viewpoint
Swimming
After returning to the main trail, at the Jenny Lake–Valley Trail junction, ▸5 bear left to cross the bridge over String Lake’s outlet stream, and continue to the String Lake trailhead parking lot, ▸6 where a paved, wheelchair-accessible path winds around the peaceful lakeshore. There are great views of the towering Cathedral Group (Teewinot Mountain, Mount Owen, and the Grand Teton) and sandy beaches offering a cooling dip in the lovely, clear lake. Bring a towel, tube, and cooler and end the hike in style. ▸7
MILESTONES
▸1 0.0 Start at String Lake picnic area parking lot
▸2 0.8 Left at Leigh Lake Trail junction
▸3 0.9 Bridge across Leigh Lake outlet
▸4 1.5 Left at String Lake Trail junction
▸5 2.8 Left across bridge at Jenny Lake–Valley Trail junction
▸6 3.1 String Lake trailhead parking lot
▸7 3.4 Return to String Lake picnic area
TRAIL 44 GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK
Surprise and Amphitheater Lakes
TRAIL USE
Hike, Backpack
LENGTH
9.6 miles, 5–6 hours
VERTICAL FEET
±3,000
DIFFICULTY
– 1 2 3 4 5 +
TRIAL TYPE
Out-and-back
SURFACE TYPE
Dirt
FEATURES
Canyon
Mountain
Steep
Lake
Autumn Colors
Wildflowers
Birds
Wildlife
Great Views
Photo Opportunity
Camping
Geologic Interest
FACILITIES
Restrooms
Welcome to the Tetons. Don’t try this aerobic hike on your first day at altitude. It climbs nearly a thousand feet per mile—but the views are worth every last gasp of breath. The route is one of the park’s most popular for good reason: it provides quick access to some of the most scenic alpine lakes in North America. Overachievers often add an extension to the stunning Teton Glacier Overlook.
Best Time
Snow often persists on higher portions of the route until as late as late June or early July, and it can start reappearing by mid-September. The lakes are ice-free for only a few months a year. The exposed switchbacks can be quite hot in the midday summer sun. Set out early to beat the crowds and to allow maximum time for enjoyment, recovery, and lake-side relaxation up top.
Finding the Trail
From the south, take US 26/89/191 north out of Jackson; proceed 8 miles past the park’s southern boundary and turn left at Moose Junction. Go past the Moose Visitor Center through the Moose Entrance Station. Continue north on Teton Park Road 6.6 miles. Turn left at the signed Lupine Meadows junction. Follow the gravel road across the new Cottonwood Creek bridge 1.5 miles to the ample Lupine Meadows parking area and trailhead. From the north, starting at Jackson Lake Junction, go 13.3 miles south on Teton Park Road and turn right at the Lupine Meadows junction.
Amenities and last-minute supplies can be found near the Jenny Lake Visitor Center, a mile north of the Lupine Meadows junction. Bring plenty of water, as there’s little between the trailhead and the tarns.
Trail Description
The Lupine Meadows trailhead parking area ▸1 (6,732 feet) is named after the colorful members of the pea family that dominate the surrounding sagebrush flats with luxuriant, blooming pastel displays every summer.
Geologic Interest
In sharp contrast to the open outwash plain deposited by glaciers around the parking area, the trail, a popular climbers’ access route, quickly enters the cover of a mature mixed-conifer forest as it heads south on disintegrating asphalt.
Wildflowers
After 1.7 miles, at the first junction with the Valley Trail, which leads down to Bradley Lake, ▸2 the Amphitheater Lake Trail forks off the Valley Trail and starts to switchback up an exposed ridge (known as a lateral moraine) between Burned Wagon and Glacier Gulches, with views over the lake to Jackson Hole. Above here, ruffed grouse calmly sit along the trail, and wildflowers are often abundant on the sunny slopes.
Obey the signs asking you to stay on the marked trail: using the switchbacks both prevents erosion and preserves your knees.
Amphitheater Lake occupies a stunning cirque at the foot of Disappointment Peak.
Teton Glacier Overlook offers views of Delta Lake and Jackson Hole.
Steep 
Beyond the Garnet Canyon Trail junction ▸3 (8,400 feet), at 3 miles, the straight-ahead switch-back climb will knock the velvet off all but the most fit antlers. Pack an extra cache of chocolate (or other quick-energy food).
Lake
Stay on designated trails to preserve the beautiful, fragile subalpine habitat surrounding the perfectly circular Surprise Lake ▸4 (9,540 feet). A single backcountry campsite offers an opportunity for overnights, though the site is sometimes closed in late summer as bears arrive to eat whitebark pine nuts. Just a few hundred yards above and beyond, Amphitheater Lake ▸5 (9,698 feet) occupies a stunning cirque at the foot of Disappointment Peak (11,618 feet).
OPTIONS
Teton Glacier Overlook and Garnet Canyon
From Amphitheater Lake, you can continue 0.3 mile one-way around the northeast shore to the highly recommended Teton Glacier Overlook. It offers impressive views into the next valley and back over aquamarine Delta Lake to Jackson Hole.
You could also extend the hike by adding a 2.2-mile, two-hour detour up Garnet Canyon to get to a large boulder field, spectacular views of the Middle Teton (12,804 feet), and a popular climbing base at the Meadows camping area.
After you have finished picnicking and exploring around the lakes, retrace your steps downhill to return to the trailhead parking area. ▸6
MILESTONES
▸1 0.0 Start at Lupine Meadows parking area
▸2 1.7 Right at Valley Trail junction (signed for Bradley Lake)
▸3 3.0 Right at Garnet Canyon Trail junction
▸4 4.6 Right at Surprise Lake
▸5 4.8 Amphitheater Lake
▸6 9.6 Return to Lupine Meadows parking area
TRAIL 45 GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK
Table Mountain
TRAIL USE
Hike
LENGTH
14 miles, 7–9 hours
VERTICAL FEET
±4,120
DIFFICULTY
– 1 2 3 4 5 +
TRIAL TYPE
Out-and-back
SURFACE TYPE
Dirt
This popular uphill hike is the best Grand Teton hike that is not actually in the park. The rewards for the drive out of the park are fabulous views of Teton peaks and an alternative view of the range from the Idaho side.
Best Time
The trail is accessible mid-July–September; before and after this you should be prepared for snow. It’s a good idea to get an early start as afternoon storms can obscure views and create hazardous conditions in summer.
Finding the Trail
From downtown Driggs, Idaho, take East Little Avenue and then Ski Hill Road east through the tiny settlement of Alta 5 miles toward Grand Targhee Resort. Take the turnoff right onto unpaved Teton Canyon Road (Forest Road 009) and go 4.7 miles to Teton Valley Campground. Just beyond the campground is the North Teton trailhead, the first of two trailheads here (the second South Teton trailhead, a couple hundred yards farther, has a toilet and water). You can hike straight from the Teton Valley Campground if staying there. The region is most easily visited if you are doing a loop of Grand Teton and Yellowstone National Parks, while driving to or from West Yellowstone.
FEATURES
Mountain
Summit
Stream
Wildflowers
Great Views
Steep
FACILITIES
Restrooms
Water
Grand Targhee
If you have a free day in your itinerary, head to nearby Grand Targhee Resort for mountain biking, downhill rides (bikes can be hired), horseback riding, a ropes course, a zip line, bungee jumping, and a climbing wall. Music lovers can time their hike with the well-regarded bluegrass music festival in mid-August, but make sure you reserve accommodations in advance. See grandtarghee.com or call 800-TARGHEE (800-827-4433) for details.
Logistics
To get an early start, overnight at the Caribou-Targhee National Forest Teton Valley Campground ($12 per site, open mid-May–mid-September). Sites are reservable for a $9 fee at recreation.gov or by calling 877-444-6777. Nearby Reunion Flat is mostly a group campground. There are several primitive camping spots along Teton Canyon Road en route to the trailhead. The trail is outside Grand Teton National Park in Idaho’s Caribou-Targhee National Forest. Pack a warm jacket for the windy summit.
Table Mountain was the very spot chosen by photographer William Jackson to immortalize the Tetons in his iconic 1872 photographs.
Trail Description
Wildlife
The trailhead sign at the parking lot ▸1 points the way on North Teton Trail 24, also called the Huckleberry Trail. After five minutes, a horse trail joins from a separate trailhead parking area, as the trail climbs through groves of aspen. A sign indicates that you are entering the Jedediah Smith Wilderness, named after a 19th-century trapper, explorer, and mountain man. The initially steep climb eases as you follow the North Fork of Teton Creek. Look for moose during this section of trail.
Wildflowers
After the junction with the Beards Wheatfield Trail (23), ▸2 continue through open meadows bursting with wildflowers in July. The trail gets rockier as you get closer to the river, winding around giant slabs of rock. Cross the creek on log bridges twice in 10 minutes (fill up on water here) and you’ll soon see the upper bowl ahead of you. Passing more meadows, the trail swings to the right and starts to switchback up the grassy ridge, looping to the right to traverse the ridge and reveal views of the mesalike butte of Table Mountain, with Grand Teton towering behind.
Viewpoint
Steep
Summit
A rock cairn marks the otherwise unsigned junction with Trail 29, ▸3 an alternative but much steeper route called The Face that climbs directly from South Teton Trailhead. Most people who come up this route decide to go down the other way (it’s particularly slippery downhill). Continue up the ridge toward Table Mountain, past the last whitebark pines and following cairns through a rock field. The long, grassy alpine ridge gets increasingly steep as you make the final steep scramble up to the 11,106-foot summit of Table Mountain. ▸4 Figure on 3.5 hours from the trailhead to the windy summit, also called Table Rock. The epic views center on 13,770-foot Grand Teton, but you can also see Middle Teton, South Teton, and Mount Owen, with the South Fork of Cascade Canyon far below you, and Hurricane Pass and Alaska Basin to the right.
Grand Teton from Table Mountain
CREDIT: Bradley Mayhew
The Face
A shorter but steeper trail nicknamed The Face (29) climbs from near the South Teton Trailhead straight up the mountain-side to join the main trail to Table Mountain near the summit, though be warned: it’s a very steep trail. It’s therefore possible to hike up The Face to Table Mountain and then descend the main Huckleberry Trail for a loop hike. The trailhead for The Face is a little tricky to find, leading off from next to the vault toilet at the South Teton Trailhead. Don’t confuse this minor path with the main Alaska Basin Trail.
For slightly closer views of the South Fork of Cascade Canyon, it’s possible to descend to the right (south) of Table Mountain and continue for 10 minutes along the rocky plateau behind Table Mountain.
Viewpoint
Figure on about three hours to return via the same route to the North Teton Trailhead. ▸5
MILESTONES
▸1 0.0 North Teton Trailhead
▸2 1.5 Junction with Beards Wheatfield Trail
▸3 6.2 Junction with Trail 29 (The Face)
▸4 7.0 Table Mountain summit
▸5 14.0 Back at North Teton Trailhead
TRAIL 46 GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK
Two Ocean Lake
TRAIL USE
Hike, Horse
LENGTH
6.4 miles, 3–4 hours
VERTICAL FEET
±150
DIFFICULTY
– 1 2 3 4 5 +
TRIAL TYPE
Loop
SURFACE TYPE
Dirt
This level loop hike around a mountain lake is a perfect early- or late-season altitude-acclimatization route. It also offers a nice escape from the crowds that flock to trails on the park’s popular western side. Arrive early or stay late for the best chance at spotting deer, elk, or moose. Whenever you arrive, definitely allow time to ascend Grand View Point for some amazing views.
Best Time
Since it is at a lower elevation than most of the park, Two Ocean Lake is typically accessible (depending on snow level and road conditions) late May–early October. For spotting birds and wildlife, the early morning or late afternoon is best. On warm days, it’s best to visit the sunnier, more exposed north shore in the morning to avoid the heat. The shady south shore is fine any time. Thanks to its length and relative inaccessibility, the trail is often crowd-free, even on perfectly sunny summer days.
FEATURES
Summit
Lake
Autumn Colors
Wildflowers
Birds
Wildlife
Great Views
Photo Opportunity
Secluded
Geologic Interest
FACILITIES
Restrooms
Picnic Tables
Boat Launch
Horse Staging
Finding the Trail
From Moran Junction in the park’s northeast sector, head 1 mile north on US 89/191/287 past the Moran Entrance Station. Turn right on paved Pacific Creek Road and go 2 miles; at the fork, bear left onto the graded dirt road signed for Two Ocean Lake and continue 2.3 miles to the signed parking area. Springtime downpours can cause the temporary closure of this road—if there’s been recent heavy rain, double-check the road’s status at a ranger station or visitor center; you may have to choose another trail. At other times, all vehicles should be able to navigate the unpaved section. To start on the north shore, look for the trail-head near the picnic area. For the south shore, look for the trailhead past the restrooms.
Two Ocean Lake’s name refers to an early assumption that because it is close to the Continental Divide, its waters must drain into both the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. They don’t, but the nearby Two Ocean Plateau, in Yellowstone’s bottom-right corner, is bisected by the Continental Divide, and its waters do drain to both oceans.
Logistics
The loop around Two Ocean Lake can be done in either direction with no change in elevation gain. You can start on the north or south shore, depending on whether you want to tackle the more difficult part first or leave it for last.
Trail Description
Find the north shore trailhead, ▸1 just past the picnic benches, where a sign points the way 4.3 miles to Grand View Point. Cross a small bridge over the outlet stream of Two Ocean Lake ▸2 (6,896 feet), which meanders along Two Ocean Road for a couple of miles before its confluence with Pacific Creek. Waterfowl are abundant around the lake, and grizzlies have been seen gorging themselves on berries, so remain bear-aware.
Birds
Wildlife
After contouring along the open lakeshore 0.5 mile, the singletrack trail trends northwest, away from the shore, and enters a shady, mixed aspen and conifer forest. Ignore the horse trails that head down into the boggy meadows, and monitor the lakefront willow thickets for browsing moose. Even the main routes can get muddy in low-lying areas during early summer.
Wildflowers
The trail continues above the north shore, losing views of the lake and crossing several seasonal creeks that water meadows of sagebrush and prolific wildflowers. After about 45 minutes of walking, look for a forested knoll at the northwest end of the lake, which offers a fine picnic spot just off the main trail. ▸3
Grand View Point Side Trip
The uphill, out-and-back detour from Two Ocean Lake up the north flank of Grand View Point (7,586 feet) adds at least an hour and 700 feet of elevation gain. On clear days, two volcanic outcroppings atop the well-named vista point make scenic picnic spots and offer amazing near-360-degree panoramas, including eye-level views of Mount Moran and the central Tetons and east to some of the remotest territory in the Lower 48. The second, balder clearing has the best views. This detour adds 2 miles to the hike. If you can arrange a car shuttle, you could follow trails downhill all the way to Jackson Lake Lodge (2.9 miles), finishing the hike with a beer on the fabulous deck of the lodge’s Blue Heron Lounge.
Birds
Three miles from the trailhead, a sign announces the head of Two Ocean Lake, ▸4 at its western end. A small, unmarked trail leads down to the lake-shore, where ducks, swans, and other waterfowl are often found basking in the bay.
Back on the main trail and across a small bridge, a signed junction marks the route’s most important decision point: ▸5 continuing straight ahead 1.3 miles takes you up the steep north side of Grand View Point (see Options) via a series of switchbacks, a recommended extension to this hike.
Viewpoint
Back on the main trail after the detour, the views from the lake’s shady south shore are obscured by morainal ridges, so the final 3.1 miles are less spectacular than the first half of the hike, with no mountain views.
From the junction for Grand View Point, the trail descends through pine forest to cross a couple of streams before gently climbing more than 100 feet above Two Ocean Lake’s southern shoreline. The landscape on the home stretch of the trail varies: you’ll encounter lodgepole pine and old-growth spruce–fir forests, clearings, bridged stream crossings, bogs, and wildflower meadows—offering a look at a selection of flora not seen on the sunnier north shore.
Taking in a phenomenal vista of Grand View Point (see Options, opposite)
After a final bridged crossing of a small bog, the trail crests a gentle rise at the Two Ocean parking and picnic area, ▸6 on your left shortly after the signed junction for the trail to Emma Matilda Lake.
MILESTONES
▸1 0.0 Start at Two Ocean Lake parking area
▸2 0.1 Cross stock bridge
▸3 1.5 Find a shady picnic spot with Grand Teton views
▸4 3.0 Western end of Two Ocean Lake
▸5 3.3 Straight to Grand View Point or left to return to trailhead
▸6 6.4 Return to parking area
