i

ICE CREAM

Ice cream just has to be one of the world’s favourite desserts. While fine commercial ice creams are available, good, home-made ice cream, made from pure cream and eggs and carefully churned, is the richest, best textured and finest ice cream of all.

There are many types of ice cream, from the French vanilla and rich Italian to the economical ones. You can use milk and eggs, or half-milk or full-cream powdered milk. Each has its merit. The custard-based ice creams are rich, creamy and smooth. Those based on whipped evaporated milk are inexpensive to make, and the powdered milk base, also inexpensive, brings ice cream to remote areas where fresh milk or cream is unavailable (see Milk).

The way to achieve a smooth texture in homemade ice cream is to churn it, which prevents ice crystals from forming as the mixture is freezing. You can do this by freezing the mixture in metal ice cream trays and beating the partially frozen cream with a rotary or electric mixer, or by using one of the excellent small electric sorbetières or ice cream makers, complete with paddles, that constantly churn the mixture until it is the right consistency. These small machines make approximately 1 litre (4 cups) of ice cream at a time. Larger ice cream makers are also available; these require salt and crushed ice and may be hand or electrically driven.

To freeze ice cream and ices:

In a freezing compartment: Turn freezing compartment to maximum or coldest setting about 1 hour before the mixture is prepared. Place the prepared mixture in metal ice cream trays and put the trays back into the freezing compartment. Allow the mixture to semi-freeze. Transfer the mixture to a mixing bowl, whisk it thoroughly with a rotary or electric mixer, replace it in the ice cream trays, cover with foil and freeze again for 1–4 hours until frozen hard. Store in freezing compartment at normal setting. If liked, the beating process may be repeated when the ice cream is just firming. The time required to freeze ice cream varies greatly according to the freezing compartment and the mixture used.

In an electric ice cream maker or sorbetière: Turn freezing compartment to maximum or coldest setting about 1 hour before the mixture is prepared. Read instruction booklet that usually accompanies these machines – as a general guide: make the ice cream mixture, pour it into the sorbetière and put it in the freezer, preferably in the coldest part, making sure the sorbetière stands level.

The sorbetière has a flat cord which passes under the freezer door and is plugged into the nearest power point. The ice cream (or the water ice if making) is constantly churned by paddles, and when it reaches the right consistency (after about 1–1½ hours), the paddles lift up automatically. Remove paddles, smooth over surface of ice cream, cover and allow to freeze until hard. Store in freezer compartment at normal setting.

When ice cream is frozen, return freezer control to normal. Home-made ice creams and ices tend to freeze harder than the commercial ones. They will reach the peak of flavour and texture after ripening (mellowing) for 2–6 hours and are best eaten within 48 hours of being made. Allow hard ice cream or ices to soften in the refrigerator for 30–60 minutes before serving.

RICH VANILLA ICE CREAM (CUSTARD BASE)

1 cup milk
1½ cups cream
½ vanilla bean, or 1 teaspoon vanilla essence
2 eggs
2 egg yolks
½ cup sugar
¼ teaspoon salt

Scald milk, cream and vanilla bean, if using, in a heavy saucepan over a low heat. Remove vanilla bean, or add vanilla essence, if using. Beat eggs, egg yolks, sugar and salt together in a heatproof bowl until thick and mousse-like. Stir in some scalded liquid. Place bowl over a saucepan of boiling water, add remaining liquid and cook, stirring, until thick (mixture should coat a metal spoon). Remove from heat and cool quickly over cold water, stirring occasionally. Pour mixture into container of a sorbetière or metal ice cream trays. Cover, place in freezer and process as directed (see To Freeze Ice Cream). Makes about 3½ cups. Serves 6.

FRENCH VANILLA ICE CREAM (MOUSSE BASE)

1¾ cups cream
½ vanilla bean, or 1 teaspoon vanilla essence
¼ cup sugar
½ cup water
3 egg yolks

Place cream and vanilla bean, if using, in a heavy saucepan and heat gently, without boiling, for 5 minutes. Set aside and add vanilla essence, if using. Place the sugar and water in a small saucepan, dissolve sugar, then bring to the boil. Boil for 5 minutes without stirring. Allow to cool for 30 seconds. Beat egg yolks until pale and frothy. Pour hot sugar syrup over yolks, whisking constantly until thick. Strain cream, add to egg mixture and whisk until frothy. Pour into container of a sorbetière or metal ice cream trays. Cover, place in freezer and process as directed (see To Freeze Ice Cream). Makes about 3 cups. Serves 5–6.

VARIATIONS

CHOCOLATE ICE CREAM: Use French or Rich Vanilla Ice Cream, but melt 125 g (4 oz) cooking chocolate in the warm cream or milk and cream.

COFFEE ICE CREAM: Use French or Rich Vanilla Ice Cream, but add 1 tablespoon instant coffee powder to the cream or milk and cream.

COCONUT ICE CREAM: Use French or Rich Vanilla Ice Cream, but add 1 cup desiccated coconut to cream or milk and cream and heat gently to infuse. Push mixture through a sieve, squeezing out as much of the coconut-flavoured creamy milk as possible. Discard the coconut.

ALMOND ICE CREAM: Use French or Rich Vanilla Ice Cream, but add ½ cup ground almonds to the cream or milk and cream and heat gently to infuse. Push mixture through a sieve, squeezing out as much almond-flavoured milk as possible. Discard the almond meal.

BURNT ALMOND ICE CREAM: Use French or Rich Vanilla Ice Cream, but add ¾ teaspoon almond essence instead of vanilla. When frozen, stir in ½ cup flaked almonds which have been toasted to a golden colour. Cover and return to freezer with temperature control set at normal and allow to ripen for 2–6 hours (see To Freeze Ice Cream).

PEACH VANILLA ICE CREAM: Make up and freezer-churn French or Rich Vanilla Ice Cream. When frozen, stir in 1½ cups mashed ripe peaches. Transfer mixture to suitable mould or container. Cover and return to freezer with temperature control set at normal and allow to ripen for 2–4 hours (see To Freeze Ice Cream).

STRAWBERRY VANILLA ICE CREAM: Prepare as for Peach Vanilla Ice Cream but add 1½ cups mashed strawberries.

NOTE: Any frozen fruits may be used as indicated in Peach and Strawberry Ice Cream. Allow fruits to thaw partially and crush in a blender.

STRAWBERRY ICE CREAM

1 punnet (250 g/8 oz) strawberries, hulled
3 egg yolks
¾ cup sugar
1¼ cups cream, lightly whipped
almond essence

Place strawberries in bowl of a blender or food processor and purée, then fold in whipped cream. Beat egg yolks and sugar until pale and light. Mix in strawberry purée. Add a few drops of almond essence to taste. Pour into container of a sorbetière or metal ice cream trays. Cover, place in freezer and process as directed (see To Freeze Ice Cream). Makes about 1 litre (4 cups). Serves 8.

ITALIAN APRICOT ICE CREAM

185 g (6 oz) dried apricots
2 cups cream
6 egg yolks
1 cup sugar

Cook apricots in a little water until they are tender. Drain and push fruit through a sieve to make a thick purée. In the top of a double saucepan, gradually stir cream into beaten egg yolks and cook gently over simmering water, stirring occasionally, until thickened. Remove custard from heat and add sugar immediately, adding more to taste if necessary. Stir until dissolved. Cool custard, then stir in apricot purée. Pour into container of a sorbetière or metal ice cream trays. Cover, place in freezer and process as directed (see To Freeze Ice Cream). Makes about 1 litre (4 cups). Serves 8.

ICES, SORBETS, GRANITE AND SHERBETS

Freshly made water ices are among the most delectable of frozen ices – whether called sorbets as in France, sherbets as in the USA or granite in Italy. Sorbets are generally accepted to be fruit juices sweetened and frozen. However, they may also be made with tea, coffee, champagne or a spirit. Granite are softened fruit purées frozen until granular in texture; sherbet is the American version of granita. For a finer grained ice, a lightly beaten egg white or softened gelatine may be folded into the mixture to be frozen. Buttermilk or milk is often added to the fruit mixture.

Ices combine magnificently with a scoop of ice cream, or with fresh fruit. They may be served in fruit shells – scooped-out oranges or lemons, half a poached pear, half a small melon – and garnished with fresh garden leaves. Meringues are often shaped into containers for ices, and pretty crystal or glass plates and goblets can be enhanced with the delicate colours of fruit ices.

Sorbets may be served before the main course to refresh the palate or with other creams or fruit as a dessert. Three-star restaurants all over the world are featuring sorbets and ices on their menus, and offer different flavoured sorbets on a plate, together with the fresh fruits from which they were made.

Making sorbets is easier if you have a small, electrically powered sorbet machine, known as a sorbetière. The paddles of the machine keep the mixture in motion as it freezes, thus preventing the formation of large ice crystals. However, sorbets can be made very successfully without such a machine, as long as the mixture is whisked every half-hour or so while freezing.

Ices, sorbets, granite, sherbets – neither solid nor liquid – are refreshing concoctions to be enjoyed at any time of the day, and can do much to refresh the palate during a rich meal.

To freeze ices: Follow the directions in To Freeze Ice Cream and Ices,

LEMON SORBET (1)

125 g (4 oz) cube sugar
4 lemons
1½ cups water
1 small egg white

Rub sugar cubes over rind of 2 lemons until cubes are impregnated with lemon oil (zest). Place in saucepan with water and stir over low heat until sugar dissolves. Bring to the boil and boil for 6 minutes. Cool. Squeeze juice from all 4 lemons and strain. Add to sugar syrup and mix well. Beat egg white with a few tablespoons of the lemon syrup. Fold into remaining syrup. Pour mixture into metal ice cream trays or container of sorbetière. Cover, place in freezer and process as directed (see To Freeze Ice Cream).The sorbet may be transferred to a separate dish or mould, depending on how you want to serve or store it. Makes 1 litre (4 cups). Serves 6–8.

LEMON SORBET (2)

¾ cup lemon juice
juice 1 orange, strained
grated rind 2 lemons
1 cup sugar
1½ cups water

Mix lemon and orange juice with grated rind. Put sugar and 1 cup water in a small saucepan and bring to the boil. Boil for 5 minutes. Remove from heat and cool, then add remaining water and fruit juices. Chill. Pour mixture into metal ice cream trays or container of a sorbetière. Cover, place in freezer and process as directed (see To Freeze Ice Cream). Makes about 1 litre (4 cups). Serves 6–8.

NOTE: If a fine-grained sorbet is desired beat an egg white until soft but fluffy and stir into the mixture before freezing.

VARIATION

LIME SORBET: Make as for Lemon Sorbet (2) but replace half the lemon juice with lime juice.

ORANGE SORBET (1)

juice 6 oranges
juice 1 lemon
1 cup icing sugar, sifted

Mix the orange and lemon juices and measure. If necessary squeeze more oranges to make 2 cups juice. Stir in sugar, whisking thoroughly until it dissolves. Transfer to an ice cream maker or metal ice cream tray, cover with foil and freeze to a slush. Purée in a food processor or blender or beat with a rotary beater until the slush becomes very light and fine-grained. Transfer to a 2-cup freezerproof soufflé dish or mould and freeze. Take sorbet out of freezer 30–45 minutes before serving and leave to soften in refrigerator. Makes 3 cups. Serves 4–6.

ORANGE SORBET (2)

1½ cups orange juice
grated rind 1 orange
1 cup sugar
¾ cup water
juice 2 lemons, strained
1 egg white

Mix orange juice with grated rind. Place sugar and water in a saucepan, dissolve sugar over a gentle heat and bring to the boil. Boil for 5 minutes, then cool. Add orange and lemon juices and mix well. Beat egg white with 2–3 tablespoons of the orange mixture, then fold through remaining orange mixture. Pour into metal ice cream trays or container of a sorbetière. Cover, place in freezer and process as directed (see To Freeze Ice Cream). Makes about 1 litre (4 cups). Serves 6–8.

VARIATIONS

ORANGE RUM SORBET: Make Orange Sorbet (2), using ½ cup white rum for ½ cup of the water.

GRAPEFRUIT SORBET: Make as for Orange Sorbet (2) replacing orange juice and rind with grapefruit.

EARL GREY SORBET

3 cups water
2 cup sugar
1 tablespoon Earl Grey tea leaves
juice 1 orange
lemon slices to serve

Combine 2 cups water with the sugar, bring to the boil and boil for 5 minutes. Bring remaining water to the boil in another pan, add tea leaves and leave to infuse. Add strained tea infusion to sugar syrup with orange juice to taste; the mixture should have a good tea taste. Cool. Pour into metal ice cream trays or container of a sorbetière. Cover, place in freezer and process as directed (see To Freeze Ice Cream). Serve with lemon slices. Makes about 3½ cups. Serves 4–6.

APRICOT BUTTERMILK SHERBET

12 ripe apricots to yield 1 cup puréed fruit
about ¼ cup sugar
2 tablespoons lemon juice
pinch salt
1½ cups buttermilk

Combine fruit purée, sugar, lemon juice, salt and buttermilk, stirring well until sugar has dissolved. (This can be done in a blender or food processor fitted with a steel blade, in which case the fruit need not be puréed first.) Taste and add more sugar if necessary. The flavour should be sharp, not sweet. Pour into metal ice cream trays or container of a sorbetière. Cover, place in freezer and process as directed (see To Freeze Ice Cream). Makes about 3 cups. Serves 4–6.

VARIATIONS

MANGO BUTTERMILK SHERBET: Prepare as for Apricot Buttermilk Sherbet, replacing 1 cup apricot purée with 1 cup puréed fresh or canned mangoes.

PEACH BUTTERMILK SHERBET: Prepare as for Apricot Buttermilk Sherbet, replacing 1 cup apricot purée with 1 cup puréed fresh or canned peaches.

STRAWBERRY BUTTERMILK SHERBET: Prepare as for Apricot Buttermilk Sherbet, replacing 1 cup apricot purée with 1 cup puréed strawberries (1 punnet).

WATERMELON ICE

4 cups watermelon, without seeds
½ cup sugar
juice 1 lemon, strained
sprigs fresh mint to decorate

Place watermelon in a blender and blend at medium speed for 30 seconds, or crush with a potato masher and push through a coarse sieve. Combine sugar and lemon juice and stir well. Add to watermelon purée. Pour into metal ice cream trays or container of a sorbetière. Cover, place in freezer and process as directed (see To Freeze Ice Cream). Serve with lemon slices and mint sprigs. Makes about 3½ cups. Serves 4–6.

STRAWBERRY SHERBET

4 punnets (1 kg/2 lb) strawberries, hulled
juice 1 orange
juice 1 lemon
1¾ cups sugar
½ cup water

Blend or purée fruit and push through a sieve. Add fruit juices. Combine sugar and water in a small saucepan, bring slowly to the boil to dissolve sugar and boil for 2–3 minutes. Combine fruit pulp and sugar syrup. Pour into container of a sorbetière or metal ice cream trays. Cover, place in freezer and process as directed (see To Freeze Ice Cream). Makes about 1 litre (4 cups). Serves 6–8.

VARIATIONS

MELON SHERBET: Prepare as for Strawberry Sherbet using 1 ripe, well-flavoured melon weighing about 1 kg (2 lb), or 2 smaller melons instead of strawberries. Halve melon, scoop out seeds and remove flesh. Purée as for strawberries. You should have about 2 cups purée.

APRICOT OR PEACH SHERBET: Prepare as for Strawberry Sherbet using 1 kg (2 lb) ripe apricots or peaches instead of strawberries. Drop fruit into boiling water for 5 minutes, then chill and peel fruit. Halve and remove stones, then purée flesh as for strawberries. You should have about 2 cups purée.

ICINGS, FROSTINGS AND FILLINGS

ICING

The sweet coating that goes on the outside of a cake. Icings add flavour to cakes, give texture contrast, help them stay fresh and moist and, of course, add to their appearance. Popular icings include the following:

Almond paste: For coating and moulding into fruits, flowers, etc..

Butter cream icing: For coating and piping.

Glacé icing: For coating and simple decoration. Royal icing: For coating and elaborate decoration. Plastic fondant icing: For covering and modelling.

FROSTING

Similar to icing; use for coating.

FILLINGS

The range of cake fillings seems almost endless, but there are some universal favourites. Sponges are popular with a simple jam filling or whipped cream and fruit. Lemon cheese transforms a plain butter cake or sponge sandwich. The smooth butter cream called crème au beurre in France is often sandwiched between many layers of cake to make a Continental gâteau. Cream cheese and ricotta cheese are the basis of other European cake fillings. Dried fruits, nuts, rum, chocolate, ginger and other flavourings are often added to a rich custard cream (crème pâtissière) for luscious dessert cakes.

See also Mock Cream.

BUTTER CREAM ICING (VIENNA ICING)

A soft and creamy icing that can be swirled into decorative shapes and also used for piping.

125 g (4 oz) butter
1½ cups pure icing sugar, sifted
1 tablespoon sherry
few drops vanilla essence

Beat butter until light and creamy, then gradually beat in half the icing sugar. Beat in sherry alternately with remaining sugar. Stir in vanilla. Sufficient to fill a Swiss roll or top a 20 cm (8 in) cake.

VARIATIONS

CHOCOLATE BUTTER CREAM ICING: Sift 1 tablespoon cocoa powder with icing sugar.

ORANGE BUTTER CREAM ICING: Add 1 teaspoon grated orange rind to icing sugar, and use 1 tablespoon orange juice in place of sherry.

LEMON BUTTER CREAM ICING: Add 1 teaspoon grated lemon rind to icing sugar, and use 1 tablespoon lemon juice in place of sherry.

WALNUT BUTTER CREAM ICING: Fold in 2 tablespoons finely chopped walnuts after mixing.

LIQUEUR BUTTER CREAM ICING: Use 1 tablespoon Grand Marnier, crème de menthe, crème de cacao, etc., in place of sherry.

GLACÉ OR WARM ICING

A quickly mixed, easily flavoured icing that sets firmly to a decorative glaze. Decorations should be added quickly before the icing sets.

1¼ cups pure icing sugar
1 tablespoon boiling water
few drops flavouring essence
food colouring as desired

Sift icing sugar into a small, heatproof bowl. Add boiling water gradually, mixing to a smooth, thick paste that will coat the back of the spoon. Place bowl over a small amount of boiling water and stir icing for 1 minute. Add flavouring and colouring as desired. Pour icing quickly over cake and smooth surface with a spatula or knife dipped in hot water. Sufficient to cover top of a 20 cm (8 in) cake.

VARIATIONS

CHOCOLATE GLACÉ ICING: Sift 1 tablespoon cocoa powder with icing sugar. Melt 1 teaspoon butter in boiling water before adding to icing sugar.

COFFEE GLACÉ ICING: Add 1 teaspoon instant coffee powder dissolved in 1 tablespoon boiling water to icing sugar.

LEMON GLACÉ ICING: Use 1 tablespoon lemon juice instead of boiling water.

SPICE GLACÉ ICING: Add ½ teaspoon each cinnamon and nutmeg and ¼ teaspoon ground cloves to icing sugar.

ROYAL ICING

2 egg whites
4 cups pure icing sugar, sifted
1 teaspoon lemon juice
food colouring as desired

Place egg white in a bowl and beat lightly. Add icing sugar 1 tablespoon at a time, beating continuously until mixture is very stiff and stands in peaks. Blend in lemon juice and food colouring. Keep icing covered with a damp cloth to prevent it hardening too quickly. This will cover a 20 cm (8 in) cake and can be used for piped decorations, lettering, etc.

PLASTIC FONDANT ICING

A roll-out type of icing used to cover rich fruit cakes. It gives a very smooth surface for decoration.

500 g (1 lb) pure icing sugar, sifted
1¼ teaspoons powdered gelatine
1 tablespoon cold water
2 teaspoons glycerine
¼ cup liquid glucose
flavouring and food colouring as desired
maize cornflour for dusting

Sift icing sugar into a bowl. Soften gelatine in cold water, then place over hot water and stir until dissolved. Remove from heat and add glycerine and glucose, stirring well. Add to icing sugar with flavouring, kneading with the hands until mixture forms a firm dough-like paste. Remove to a board sprinkled with cornflour and knead until smooth and pliable. Food colouring may be added, if desired, and kneaded through. Roll out to fit top and sides of cake. Fit carefully on cake, smoothing with hands dusted with cornflour. Plastic icing may be kept in an airtight container until needed, but do not store in refrigerator as this will harden fondant. Sufficient to cover top and sides of a 20 cm (8 in) cake. Use Modelling Fondant (below) for moulded decorations.

MODELLING FONDANT

Excellent for moulded decorations, such as fruit and flowers.

½ teaspoon powdered gelatine
1 tablespoon cold water
3 teaspoons liquid glucose
500 g (1 lb) pure icing sugar, sifted
maize cornflour for dusting
food colouring as desired

Soften gelatine in water, then place over hot water and stir until dissolved. Remove from heat and stir in glucose. Add to icing sugar, kneading well until all sugar has been absorbed. Put on a board dusted with cornflour and knead until pliable, adding colouring if desired. Keep mixture well wrapped in an airtight container until ready to use. Makes about 2 cups.

NOTE: If the mixture is too dry add a little boiled water, and if too moist add extra sifted icing sugar.

RICH CHOCOLATE ICING

185 g (6 oz) dark chocolate, roughly chopped
¼ cup dark rum
½ teaspoon vanilla essence
2 cups icing sugar, sifted
30 g (1 oz) butter, softened
1 tablespoon hot milk

Melt chocolate in a heatproof bowl set over simmering water. Stir in rum and vanilla. Add icing sugar, butter and milk. Stir vigorously over the hot water until icing is smooth and glossy. If too thick, add a little more milk. Spread at once over cake. Sufficient to cover top of a 23 cm (9 in) square cake.

ECONOMICAL CHOCOLATE ICING

1½ cups icing sugar, sifted
½ teaspoon cinnamon
1 tablespoon cocoa powder
30 g (1 oz) butter
1 tablespoon hot water

Mix icing sugar, cinnamon and cocoa in a bowl, then stir in softened butter and water. Mix to a smooth paste, adding a little more hot water if necessary. Sufficient to cover top of a 20 cm (8 in) cake.

SEVEN-MINUTE FROSTING

1 cup sugar
½ teaspoon cream of tartar
1 egg white
2 tablespoons water
¼ teaspoon vanilla essence

Place sugar, cream of tartar, egg white and water in the top of a double saucepan or in a heatproof bowl placed over simmering water (do not allow bottom of bowl to touch water). Beat with an electric beater on slow, or with a rotary beater, until mixture is thick enough to hold its shape. This takes about 7 minutes, which gives the frosting its name. Cool a little, then stir in vanilla or other desired flavourings and spread roughly over cake. Sufficient to cover a bar cake or an 18 cm (7 in) round cake.

NOTE: Quantities may be doubled for larger cakes, in which case the frosting takes about 10 minutes to make.

VARIATIONS

PEPPERMINT 7-MINUTE FROSTING: Add 2–3 drops peppermint essence instead of vanilla and a little pink or green food colouring.

MARSHMALLOW 7-MINUTE FROSTING: When mixture is thick, after cooking for 7 minutes, stir in 1 cup chopped marshmallows. Stir until melted.

CHOCOLATE 7-MINUTE FROSTING: Stir in 90 g (3 oz) melted dark chocolate after cooking for 7 minutes.

CHOCOLATE CREAM CHEESE FROSTING

90 g (3 oz) dark chocolate, roughly chopped
90 g (3 oz) cream cheese, softened
¼ cup milk
4 cups icing sugar, sifted
½ teaspoon salt

Melt chocolate in a heatproof bowl over hot water. Remove from heat, and gradually beat in cream cheese and milk. Add icing sugar and salt, beating until mixture is smooth and spreadable. Add a little more milk if necessary. Sufficient to cover tops of two 23 cm (9 in) cakes.

CRÈME AU BEURRE (BUTTER CREAM)

2 egg yolks
¼ cup sugar
½ cup milk
250 g (8 oz) unsalted butter
½ teaspoon vanilla essence

Beat egg yolks with half the sugar until light and creamy. Place remaining sugar and the milk in a heavy saucepan and bring to the boil, stirring to dissolve sugar. Pour milk onto yolk mixture and blend well. Return to pan and stir over gentle heat until custard coats the back of the spoon. Do not allow to boil. Strain and cool. Cream butter and when soft add cooled custard little by little. Flavour with vanilla. Makes about 2 cups.

VARIATIONS

COFFEE CRÈME AU BEURRE: Stir 2 teaspoons instant coffee powder into hot custard. Omit vanilla.

CHOCOLATE CRÈME AU BEURRE: Melt 60 g (2 oz) chopped dark chocolate over hot water. Beat into creamed butter with custard.

RUM CRÈME AU BEURRE: Beat 1–2 tablespoons dark rum into creamed butter with custard. Omit vanilla.

RICOTTA RUM FILLING

Use for small tarts, cakes or with Savoy fingers and a glass of Madeira.

250 g (8 oz) ricotta cheese
½ cup sugar
½ teaspoon vanilla essence
2 tablespoons dark rum
2 tablespoons grated dark chocolate
1 tablespoon chopped glacé fruit (ginger, apricots, pineapple, etc.)

Combine ricotta, sugar, vanilla and rum and beat until light and fluffy. Fold in chocolate and fruit. Fill sponge or layer cake, wrap in foil, and leave in refrigerator for 2–3 hours before serving. Makes about 2 cups.

CRÈME PÂTISSIÈRE (CUSTARD CREAM FILLING)

This filling is good for éclairs and cream puffs as well as sponges, cakes and pastries.

1½ cups milk
1 vanilla bean
½ cup sugar
¼ cup flour
2 eggs
2 egg yolks

Bring milk to the boil with vanilla bean. Put aside. Mix sugar and flour together, add eggs and egg yolks and beat until light. Remove vanilla bean from milk and gradually pour milk into egg mixture, stirring until well blended. Return to pan and cook over gentle heat, stirring constantly, just until boiling point. Remove from heat and continue stirring for a few minutes to release steam. Turn into a bowl to cook, then chill, covered, until ready to use. Makes about 2 cups.

VARIATIONS

RICH CRÈME PÂTISSIÈRE: After cooling, fold in ¾ cup whipped cream.

TUTTI-FRUTTI CRÈME PÂTISSIÈRE: Omit vanilla bean. After cooling, fold in 2 tablespoons rum, brandy or fruit liqueur, and ¼ cup chopped glacé fruits.

FRANGIPANE CREAM: After removing Crème Pâtissière from heat, beat in 6 g (2 oz) butter and ¼ cup crushed macaroons or chopped blanched almonds.

LEMON CHEESE FILLING

Delicious as a filling for sponges and cakes, or spread on hot, buttered toast.

60 g (2 oz) butter
grated rind and juice 2 medium lemons
2 egg yolks (from 60 g/2 oz eggs)
½ cup sugar

Melt butter in top of double saucepan or heatproof bowl set over hot water. Add lemon rind and juice, egg yolks and sugar and stir with a wooden spoon over simmering water until mixture thickens. Allow to cool before using. Mixture may be made in double quantities and will keep well in a covered sterilised jar in the refrigerator. Makes 1 cup.

NOTE: For sterilising jars see Jams.

VARIATION

PASSIONFRUIT CHEESE FILLING: Use pulp from 4 large passionfruits in place of lemon rind and juice.

IRISH COFFEE

The success of this famous coffee depends entirely on the use of the finest ingredients – true Irish whiskey, fresh roasted, freshly brewed coffee, and cream, lightly whipped so that it floats on top of the hot coffee. An excellent end to a meal.

Irish coffee is served in tall coffee cups or heatproof glasses. An enterprising manufacturer has made a small burner to take a special Irish coffee glass. This is used to heat the whiskey in the glass, and it ensures that the coffee is piping hot – part of the charm is to sip the hot whiskey-laced coffee through the layer of cold cream. If serving to guests, arrange ingredients on a tray, take to the table and prepare.

IRISH COFFEE

8 tablespoons Irish whiskey
sugar
3 cups very hot, freshly brewed, strong coffee
1 cup cream, lightly whipped until it holds soft peaks

Set out 4 heated Irish coffee glasses or cups. In each glass stir together 2 tablespoons whiskey (heated over a burner for preference) and 1½ teaspoons sugar. Add hot, strong black coffee, and stir until sugar is dissolved. Spoon cream gently on top. Serves 4.

IRISH SODA BREAD

Irish soda bread is one of the specialties of that country, and is baked in countless farmhouses and homes all over Ireland. It is made in white and brown loaves and the Irish enjoy the taste of soda, which is used as the raising agent.

WHITE SODA BREAD

6 cups flour
1 teaspoon bicarbonate of soda
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup buttermilk or sour milk

Sift dry ingredients into a bowl and make a well in the centre. Add buttermilk or sour milk in a steady pouring stream, working in flour with a large fork. The dough should be slack but not wet and the mixing done lightly and quickly. Add a little more milk if dough seems too stiff. With floured hands, put dough onto a lightly floured surface and flatten into a round about 4 cm (1½ in) thick. Put onto a greased baking tray and cut a large cross on top with a floured knife. (This is to ensure even distribution of heat.) Bake in a preheated moderately hot oven (190°C/375°C) for about 40 minutes. Test centre with a skewer before removing from oven. To keep bread soft, wrap in a clean tea-towel. Makes 1 large loaf or 2 small ones.

NOTE: If buttermilk or sour milk is not available, 1 cup fresh milk may be used, in which case add 1 teaspoon cream of tartar to the dry ingredients.

VARIATIONS

BROWN SODA BREAD: Make as for White Soda Bread, using 4 cups wholewheat flour and 2 cups white flour. A little more milk will be needed to mix the dough. If a brittle texture is required, add 1 tablespoon melted butter. The bread should not be cut until it is quite cold. This takes 4–6 hours.

TREACLE SODA BREAD: Make as for White Soda Bread, but heat 2 tablespoons black treacle (molasses) with the milk, and add 1½ teaspoons sugar and ½ cup sultanas, if liked, to the dough.

IRISH STEW

Authentic Irish stew uses 1 kg (2 lb) potatoes and 250 g (8 oz) onions to each 500 g (1 lb) quantity of meat, but the gravy may need to be slightly thickened before serving. It was originally made with either mutton or kid.

IRISH STEW

1 kg (2 lb) lamb neck chops
2 kg (4 lb) potatoes, peeled
500 g (1 lb) onions, thickly sliced
salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 cups water
1 bouquet garni
2 bay leaves

Trim excess fat from chops. Slice a few of the potatoes and halve the rest. Put sliced potatoes into a deep saucepan, then add meat, then halved potatoes and then all the other ingredients. Cover tightly and simmer gently for 2–2½ hours. Shake pan from time to time to prevent stew sticking. This stew should not be thin. It should be thick, well seasoned and creamy. Remove bouquet garni and bay leaves before serving. Serves 6–8.