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YABBIES

Yabbies are freshwater crayfish, rather similar to the French écrevisses. Although a few people have attempted – and succeeded – to raise yabbies commercially, most come from natural creeks and waterholes and consequently their supply in the cities is rather erratic. There seems to be no clearly defined yabbie season, but they are perhaps more plentiful in spring than in summer or winter. Yabbies have a taste vaguely similar to that of prawns, but without the salty sweetness of the latter. Some say they are best eaten straight from the pot, without the benefit of any sauce; others like them warm in a salad, or cold with a lemony mayonnaise. Cooked yabbies may also garnish other fish or seafood dishes. Buy live yabbies when available at the fish markets. They should be clean, free of weed and react when touched. Grasp them firmly at the junction of the head and tail when handling. When purchased ready-cooked, they should be bright orange-red, stored on ice or refrigerated. Yabbies sometimes have a slight muddy taste and to overcome this live yabbies may be placed in a large bucket of cold water and left in a very cool place for about 5 hours or overnight. Alternatively, dill seeds may be added to the cooking liquid and the cooked yabbies left overnight in the cooking liquid with sprigs of fresh dill.

To cook: Kill yabbies by freezing, then drop into boiling salted water, Court Bouillon or Shellfish Stock (below).Lower the heat and simmer for about 5–10 minutes or until the shell colour changes to orange-red. Remove with a slotted spoon. When cool enough to handle, separate tails from heads. Cut through tail shells with strong kitchen scissors and extract tail meat.

SHELLFISH STOCK FOR YABBIES

small crabs, prawn heads and other shellfish oddments
1 carrot
1 leek or onion
1 stick celery
few black peppercorns
1 bay leaf
stalks parsley
5 cups water
little white wine

In a large saucepan combine crabs, prawn heads and other shellfish oddments, carrot, leek or onion, celery, peppercorns, bay leaf and parsley stalks. Add water and a little white wine. Bring to the boil and simmer for about 30 minutes. Strain before use. Makes 4 cups.

YABBIE SALAD

1 kg (2 lb) yabbies, cooked and shelled
Vinaigrette Dressing
salad greens

Toss yabbies with vinaigrette dressing. Garnish with salad greens. Serves 2.

VARIATIONS

Dress yabbies with a light tarragon-flavoured Mayonnaise and garnish with slivers of just-cooked snow peas and artichoke hearts, or fresh watercress.

YABBIES DILL SALAD: Prepare as for Yabbie Salad, and add 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh dill to dressing.

YABBIES IN FRESH TOMATO SAUCE

1 onion, finely chopped
30g (1 oz) butter
1 clove garlic, chopped
1 kg (2 lb) ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped
1 bouquet garni
salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 kg (4 lb) yabbies, cooked and shelled
2 tablespoons brandy
pinch cayenne
1 tablespoon chopped chives

Cook half the onion in half the butter for 2 minutes, then add garlic and cook briefly. Add tomatoes and bouquet garni. Season with salt and pepper. Cook over low heat for 10 minutes. Meanwhile, fry remaining onion in remaining butter, in a separate pan, for 2 minutes. Add yabbies and cook gently for 2 minutes longer. Deglaze pan with brandy. Remove bouquet garni and add tomato mixture to yabbies. Stir in cayenne and chives and serve yabbies and sauce immediately. Serves 4.

YAM

In appearance, yams are rather like sweet potatoes but they taste more like ordinary potatoes when cooked. They are the tubers of a tropical vine which originated in China but is now found throughout the Pacific, the West Indies and Africa.

To cook: Yams can be baked, boiled or fried. They may be baked whole, in their skins, but should be peeled before boiling or frying. Yams quickly discolour when peeled, so drop into cold acidulated water (water with a little lemon juice or vinegar added) as soon as peeled. Add a little lemon juice to the water when boiling, too.

SWEET YAM SOUFFLÉ

750 g (1½ lb) yams
155 g (5 oz) butter
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons brown sugar
2 eggs, beaten
2 tablespoons white wine
½ teaspoon cinnamon

Bake yams whole, without peeling, in a preheated very hot oven (230°C/450°F) for about 1 hour or until tender. Halve, scoop out flesh, and mash with 125 g (4 oz) butter. Add salt, pepper, sugar, eggs and wine, and beat until fluffy. Pour into a greased ovenproof dish, sprinkle with cinnamon and dot with remaining butter. Bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for about 45 minutes. Serve warm. Serves 6.

BOILED YAMS WITH CHEESE SAUCE

500 g (1 lb) yams, peeled and thickly sliced
squeeze lemon juice
60 g (2 oz) butter
2 tablespoons flour
1 cup hot milk
1 cup grated Parmesan cheese
salt and freshly ground black pepper
pinch cayenne

Cook yams in boiling salted water, with lemon juice, until soft. Drain and set aside. Melt butter in a saucepan, stir in flour and cook for about 1 minute. Add milk and mix well. Bring to the boil, stirring constantly. Add half the cheese, and season with salt, pepper and cayenne. Place yam slices in a greased ovenproof dish, cover with sauce, then sprinkle over remaining cheese. Warm through in a preheated hot oven (200°C/400°F) for 5–10 minutes. Serves 6.

YEAST COOKERY

Cooking with yeast – baking breads, rolls, sweet fruit loaves, spice buns, festive breads – is one of the joys of the kitchen. It is satisfying and relaxing to knead the dough, shape it and enjoy the warm spicy aroma while it bakes. Yeast is a living organism and needs food, warmth and moisture to grow. These essentials are provided when bread-type doughs are mixed. The yeast starts to work and the carbon dioxide created makes the dough rise and gives breads and buns their characteristic light texture. Be careful the liquid added is only lukewarm because too much heat will kill the yeast. Tackle yeast cookery with confidence and enjoyment; the dough is not delicate like pastry and thorough kneading results in a light, even-textured product. You will not need a lot of time for preparation; most of the time is taken by the dough itself when it is set aside to rise.

Types of yeast:

Compressed or fresh yeast: These may be purchased from good delicatessens and health food stores. Buy in small amounts or as much as you need for the recipe, keep wrapped in the refrigerator and use within 2–3 days. Larger amounts of yeast can be divided into packets of 15 g (½ oz), wrapped in foil, labelled and frozen. These are best used within 3 months of freezing. Compressed yeast should crumble easily, be a pale cream-putty colour and have a fresh, pleasant, very faintly alcoholic smell. Do not use yeast if it smells strongly alcoholic or is a dark colour – this means it is stale. Quantities: 3 teaspoons compressed yeast equals 15 g (½ oz); 6 teaspoons compressed yeast equals 30 g (1 oz).

Some recipes recommend allowing the yeast to sponge first before mixing into the dry ingredients. Follow the recipe instructions and leave the yeast and liquid in a warm place for about 15 minutes. It is ready when a creamy foam covers the surface. Not all recipes use this method so read the instructions first before proceeding.

Dried (active) or dehydrated yeast: Various types of dried yeast are available commercially, their differences being in the way they are used and in the quantities necessary for leavening. Be careful to check the instructions for use on the packet and use only those amounts specified as equivalent to compressed yeast when substituting. Too much yeast will spoil the product, making it course and sour. Some dried yeasts need to be reactivated before they can be used.

Dry yeast: Probably the most widely available of all, dry yeast may be purchased from supermarkets, groceries, delicatessens and health food shops. It is packaged in sachets which usually contain 7 g (¼ oz) yeast, or 1½ teaspoons, and will keep for about 1 year in a cool, dry place in the unopened sachets. Dry yeast may be substituted in recipes calling for fresh or compressed yeast. Follow the instructions on the packet or, as a guide, use 1 × 7 g (¼ oz) sachet in place of 15 g (½ oz) compressed yeast, or 2 × 7 g sachets in place of 30 g (1 oz) compressed yeast. Dry yeast may be added directly to the flour in most recipes as it does not need to be reactivated before use, but if you prefer, combine 1 sachet dry yeast, ¼ teaspoon sugar and 2 tablespoons hand-warm water and leave for 10 minutes or until frothy on top. Use as your recipe instructs.

Dry active yeast: Similar to dry yeast. Available from health food shops and some delicatessens. It is packaged in sachets containing 7 g (¼ oz), or 2 teaspoons, and will keep for about 1 year in a cool, dry place in the unopened sachets. When substituting for compressed yeast, first check the instructions for use on the packet or, as a guide, use 1 × 7 g (¼ oz) sachet in place of 30 g (1 oz) compressed yeast. Some dry active yeasts need to be reactivated before use. Check packet instructions or, as a guide, combine 1 × 7 g sachet dry active yeast with 2 tablespoons hand-warm water and ¼ teaspoon sugar and leave for 15 minutes or until a frothy cream has formed on top. Whisk for a few seconds, then use as your recipe indicates.

Dried yeast compound: This is not as well known as dry yeast. It may be purchased from health food stores in cans, usually 500 g (1 lb) in weight, and is useful if you make bread regularly. Store in a cool, dry place and after opening the can, transfer the contents to an airtight container and store again in a cool, dry place. Always shake the container before using to distribute the yeast granules evenly through the compound mixture. Dried yeast compound may be substituted for compressed yeast. Use 3 teaspoons dried yeast compound in place of 15 g (½ oz) compressed yeast and reactivate first: combine 3 teaspoons dried yeast compound with 2 teaspoons sugar and 1 cup hand-warm water. Allow to stand for 40 minutes before using as your recipe indicates.

To prepare the dough: Place dry ingredients into a warm bowl, make a well in the centre and pour in liquids and yeast (unless recipe specifies otherwise). Mix to a soft dough and beat well to develop the gluten in the flour.

Kneading the dough: Not all yeast doughs require kneading but if recipe specifies, turn onto a lightly floured board and knead to a smooth, elastic ball. This will take about 10 minutes. Knead in as little extra flour as possible. The dough will be quite sticky when you first start kneading but will then become smooth and satiny quite quickly. Dough is sufficiently kneaded when the impression of a finger, pressed into it, smooths out quickly.

Rising: Put ball of dough into a clean, very lightly oiled bowl and turn dough over so the surface is lightly greased all over. Cover bowl with a clean cloth or a damp tea-towel. Set the bowl in a warm place free from draughts for about 1–2 hours or until the dough doubles in bulk. A temperature of about 27°C/80°F is ideal. To test when ready, lightly and quickly press 2 fingers into the top of the dough to a depth of about 1 cm (½ in). If dents remain the dough is ready. If they fill up, leave for 15 minutes before testing again.

Knocking back dough: After the first rising the dough is usually knocked back to expel any excess carbon dioxide. Turn the dough onto a lightly floured board, punch your fist into the middle, then knead several times. Shape as required and leave to prove for 30–60 minutes, depending on size or as recipe states. Before baking test again with fingers.

To bake: The shaped dough is usually put in a preheated hot oven (200°C/400°F) for the first 15 minutes to kill the yeast and prevent over-proving. When baked the bread or buns will sound hollow when tapped underneath.

See also Bread, Baps; Stollen.

BASIC SWEET RICH DOUGH

This basic dough makes many different loaves, rolls and twists of any size or shape you wish. Add spices, fruits, cherries or nuts; brush with melted butter and sprinkle with cinnamon and sugar before baking, or bake, cool and drizzle over some Glacé Icing.

4½ cups flour
large pinch salt
¾ –1 cup milk
125 g (4 oz) butter
30 g (1 oz) compressed yeast
½ cup caster sugar
2 eggs, beaten

Sift flour with salt into a large bowl. Heat ¾ cup milk to lukewarm, add butter and allow to melt, then add to yeast and stir until dissolved. Mix in sugar and beaten eggs. Make a well in flour, pour in milk mixture and stir until smooth, first with a wooden spoon and then with the hand. Add more warm milk if necessary to make a soft dough. When the dough comes away cleanly from sides of bowl, turn onto a floured work surface and knead until smooth and elastic. Only add a little more flour if dough is too soft to knead. Place dough in a greased bowl and turn dough over in bowl so it is lightly greased. Cover with a damp cloth and leave to rise in a warm place for 45–50 minutes or until doubled in bulk. Knock back dough, pull sides to centre, turn over, then cover and allow to rise again for 30 minutes before shaping and baking.

WAYS TO USE BASIC SWEET RICH DOUGH:

SUGARPLUM RING: Use ½ quantity Basic Sweet Rich Dough. Leave to rise in a warm place until doubled in bulk. Pinch off bits of dough and form into balls about 2.5 cm (1 in) in diameter. Knead balls lightly on a floured work surface. Roll balls of dough in melted butter, then in a mixture of brown sugar and cinnamon and place in a greased 20 cm (8 in) ring tin. Leave a little space between each to allow for rising. Cover with a floured, damp cloth and allow to rise in a warm place until almost doubled in bulk. Sprinkle over chopped walnuts or almonds. Bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for 30–35 minutes.

CLOVERLEAF ROLLS: Use ½ quantity Basic Sweet Rich Dough. Leave to rise in a warm place until doubled in bulk. Shape risen dough into small walnut-size balls. Grease muffin or patty tins and put 3 balls of dough in each. Cover and let rise in a warm place for 30–45 minutes or until doubled in bulk. Brush rolls with milk or beaten egg and bake in a preheated hot oven (200°C/400°F) for about 15 minutes. Makes 12–18.

CRESCENTS: Use ½ quantity Basic Sweet Rich Dough. Leave to rise in a warm place until doubled in bulk. Roll out dough to the size of a dinner plate. Spread with softened butter, and sprinkle with poppy seeds or sesame seeds. Cut into 8 wedges, and roll up each wedge from the widest edge towards the point. Stretch the dough gently and shape into a crescent. Place crescents well apart on a greased baking tray. Cover with a cloth and allow to rise in a warm place until the rolls double in size. Brush with a little beaten egg or milk and sprinkle over a few poppy seeds or sesame seeds. Bake in a preheated very hot oven (230°C/450°F) for 10–15 minutes or until the rolls are golden. Makes 8.

GREEK EASTER BREAD

It’s an old Greek custom to bake eggs in a nest of sweet dough. Use raw eggs, either natural white or brown, or colour them with Easter egg dye obtainable from many Greek delicatessens.

1 quantity Basic Sweet Rich Dough (above)
½ cup finely chopped mixed candied peel
¼ cup chopped almonds
½ teaspoon aniseed (optional)
5 eggs
Glacé Icing
red food colouring
chopped nuts or fruit jellies to decorate

After second rising, turn dough onto a floured work surface. Combine peel, almonds and aniseed, if using, and knead into dough. Divide dough in half and roll each half into a long rope about 60 cm (24 in) long. Twist ropes loosely together and shape into a ring on a large greased baking tray. Arrange unshelled eggs in hollow evenly around ring. Cover and leave to rise in a warm place for 30–40 minutes. Bake the ring in a preheated moderately hot oven (190°C/ 375°F) for 30–35 minutes. Remove to a wire rack to cool. When cool, spread with glacé icing, tinted pale pink, leaving the eggs uncovered. Decorate with chopped nuts or brightly coloured fruit jellies.

GREEK FEAST BREAD

This subtly lemon-flavoured loaf, with its three-in-one design, represents the Holy Trinity. It is decorated with cherries and almonds. This quantity makes one very large bread. If your baking tray is small, use only two-thirds of dough to make the 3 balls, and use the remaining dough for small rolls. If desired, the rolls can be made in the shape of nests and a raw egg in the shell placed on top of each before rising, to be baked with the rolls as in the Greek Easter Bread.

1 quantity Basic Sweet Rich Dough
1 tablespoon grated lemon rind
1 cup sultanas
Glacé Icing
glacé cherries and whole almonds to decorate

Prepare dough, adding lemon rind and sultanas with yeast mixture. Cover dough and leave to rise in a warm place until doubled in bulk, then knock back and leave to rise again. After the second rising, turn onto a floured work surface and knead lightly. Divide into 3 and roll each portion into a ball. Place on a large greased baking tray in a clover leaf pattern, 1–2.5 cm (½ –1 in) apart. Cover and leave in a warm place to rise again for about 30 minutes or until doubled. Bake in a preheated moderately hot oven (190°C/375°F) for about 30 minutes or until lightly browned and a skewer inserted in centre comes out clean. Remove to a wire rack and cover loosely with a tea-towel. Ice when cool, and decorate with cherries and almonds.

TEA RING

½ quantity Basic Sweet Rich Dough
30 g (1 oz) softened butter
¼ cup caster sugar
1 cup raisins
2 teaspoons cinnamon
Glacé Icing
walnut halves, glacé cherries and candied angelica to decorate

After second rising, turn dough onto a floured work surface and roll out to an oblong about 1 cm (½ in) thick. Dot surface with softened butter and sprinkle with sugar, raisins and cinnamon. Roll up dough tightly, beginning at longer side, and seal by pinching edges well together. Curl dough into a ring, joining ends together well, and place on a greased baking tray. Using scissors or a sharp knife, snip ring at 2.5 cm (1 in) intervals around outside edge, making each cut or snip two-thirds through dough. Cover with a cloth and leave to rise for 15–20 minutes. Bake tea ring in a preheated moderately hot oven (190°C/375°F) for about 25 minutes or until golden-brown and a skewer inserted in centre comes out clean. Make a thin glacé icing and brush over ring while still warm, then decorate with nuts, cherries and angelica.

CARDAMOM BRAID

½ quantity Basic Sweet Rich Dough
1–2 teaspoons ground cardamom
1 egg
2 teaspoons milk
caster sugar

Make up basic sweet dough as directed, adding ground cardamom to the flour before sifting. Leave in warm place until doubled in bulk. Turn onto floured surface and knead lightly. Divide dough into 3 equal portions and shape each piece into a rope about 2.5 cm (1 in) across. Line the ropes up on a greased baking tray and, starting from the middle, plait loosely towards the ends, taking care not to stretch dough. Seal ends by pinching well together. Cover and leave in a warm place to rise until doubled in bulk. Beat egg and milk then brush over the braid. Sprinkle the braid generously with caster sugar and bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for about 30–35 minutes or until brown. Remove to a wire rack and loosely cover with a clean tea-towel. Leave to cool before slicing.

NOTE: This quantity makes 1 large braid; you can use it to make 2 smaller braids if liked.

HOT CROSS BUNS

A favourite hot cross bun recipe that always works.

4 cups flour
1 teaspoon mixed spice
½ teaspoon cinnamon
1 teaspoon salt
60 g (2 oz) butter
¼ cup currants or sultanas
¼ cup chopped mixed candied peel
30 g (1 oz) compressed yeast
½ cup caster sugar
½ cup lukewarm water
½ cup lukewarm milk
1 egg, lightly beaten
4 tablespoons self-raising flour and 2 tablespoons cold water to make paste cross
¼ teaspoon powdered gelatine, 2 tablespoons water and 1 tablespoon sugar to glaze

Sift flour, mixed spice, cinnamon and salt into a bowl. Rub in butter, then mix in currants or sultanas and peel. Make a well in centre. Cream yeast with sugar and add a little warm water to dissolve yeast completely. Blend remaining water and milk with yeast and add with beaten egg to flour. Mix to form a soft dough. Turn onto a lightly floured work surface and knead until smooth and elastic. Shape into a ball, place in a clean, greased bowl and turn over so that top of dough is greased. Cover with damp tea-towel and leave to rise in a warm place for 1¼ –1½ hours or until doubled in bulk. Turn risen dough onto a lightly floured work surface and gently press out to 1 cm (½ in) thick. Divide dough into 16 pieces and shape each into a small ball. Place balls on greased baking tray, at least 2.5 cm (1 in) apart, or arrange in greased round cake tins. Cover and leave to rise in a warm place for a further 20–30 minutes. To make paste for cross, combine flour and water and beat to a smooth paste. Put into a greaseproof paper funnel or small piping bag fitted with a plain nozzle. Using a sharp knife, make a slight indentation in shape of a cross on top of each bun just before baking and pipe prepared paste into cross. Bake in a preheated hot oven (200°C/400°F) for about 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, to make glaze, sprinkle gelatine over water in a small saucepan. When softened, dissolve over a low heat. Add sugar and stir until dissolved. Remove from the heat. Remove buns from oven and brush with glaze while still hot. Stand buns in a warm place, such as on opened door of turned-off oven. This helps to set glaze. Makes 16.

VARIATION

If liked, omit the paste cross and decorate with a sweet icing cross. Mix 1 cup sifted icing sugar with enough hot milk to make a firm consistency, about 2 teaspoons. Put into a piping bag fitted with a plain tube and pipe crosses on baked warm buns.

CHELSEA BUNS

1 quantity Basic Sweet Rich Dough
60g (2 oz) butter, softened
¼ cup caster sugar
1 cup currants
1 teaspoon mixed spice
extra caster sugar
¼ cup sugar and 1 cup water to glaze

After first rising, turn dough onto a floured work surface, knead lightly and roll out to a rectangle about 30 × 23 cm (12 × 9 in). Spread with softened butter, and sprinkle with 1 tablespoon sugar. Fold each end over to meet in centre, then fold dough in half and roll out again. Sprinkle with rest of sugar, the currants and spice. Roll up like a Swiss roll. Cut into slices about 4 cm (1½ in) thick. Arrange slices, cut side up and almost touching, in a well-greased 20 cm (8 in) sandwich tin. Cover loosely with a clean tea-towel and leave to rise in a warm place for about 20 minutes. The buns should now be touching. Sprinkle with extra caster sugar. Bake the buns in a preheated hot oven (200°C/400°F) for about 20 minutes. Meanwhile, make glaze. Combine sugar and water in a saucepan and stir over gentle heat until sugar has dissolved. Increase heat and boil, without stirring, for 3 minutes. Remove buns from oven, brush with glaze and return to oven for 30 seconds to dry glaze. Leave to cool before separating buns. Serve warm or cool with plenty of butter. Makes 12.

COTTAGE LOAF (BASIC MILK DOUGH)

4 cups flour
1 teaspoon salt
15 g (½ oz) compressed yeast
3 teaspoons sugar
1¼ cups milk
60 g (2 oz) butter

Sift flour and salt into a large mixing bowl. Make a well in centre of flour. Cream yeast with sugar in a small bowl. Heat ½ cup milk to lukewarm and add to yeast and sugar mixture. Mix until dissolved, then pour into well in flour. Stir in a little of surrounding flour, then cover with a cloth and leave in a warm place for 30 minutes. Melt butter, add remaining milk and warm slightly. Pour into yeast batter in bowl and gradually mix in flour to make a medium soft dough. The dough for a cottage loaf should be quite stiff, so add more flour if necessary. Knead dough, then allow to rise until it is doubled in bulk. Knock dough back and knead lightly for 10 minutes. Shape two-thirds of dough into a ball and place on greased baking tray. Shape remaining dough into a ball, place on top of the other dough, then press a floury finger right down the centre of both. Leave to rise for about 35 minutes or until doubled in bulk. Brush with milk, sprinkle with a little flour and bake in centre of a preheated very hot oven (230°C/ 450°F) for 20 minutes. Reduce heat to moderate (180°C/350°F) and bake for a further 20–25 minutes. To test if bread is cooked, knock firmly on base: the bread should sound hollow. If it does not, bake for a little longer.

VARIATION

FRUIT LOAF: Prepare dough as for Cottage Loaf, using a little more liquid. When dough has doubled in bulk, knock it back and knead in 125 g (4 oz) mixed dried fruit. Cut dough in half, shape and place in 2 well-greased 21 × 11 cm (8½ × 4½ in) loaf tins. Cover and leave to rise for 35–40 minutes. Bake loaves in a preheated very hot oven (230°C/450°F) for 20 minutes, then reduce heat to moderate (180°C/350°F) and bake for a further 20–25 minutes. Paint loaves with honey or thick milk and sugar syrup as soon as they come out of the oven. Cool on a wire rack. Makes 2.

SOURDOUGH RYE BREAD

Delicious rye bread made with a sourdough starter. Make the starter first and let it stand at room temperature for 2 days before using. The starter can then be refrigerated, where it will keep for 5–6 days. Return to room temperature before using to make more bread.

Sourdough starter

7 g (¼ oz) or 1½ teaspoons compressed yeast
½ teaspoon sugar
2 cup lukewarm water
¾ cup plain flour

Bread

15 g (½ oz) compressed yeast
2 teaspoons brown sugar
2½ cups plain flour
1½ cups lukewarm water
2 cups rye flour
1 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons caraway seeds
1 tablespoon salad oil

To make sourdough starter, cream yeast with sugar, then stir in lukewarm water until dissolved. Sift in flour and mix until smooth. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and leave for 2 days, unrefrigerated, before using.

To make bread, cream yeast with ½ teaspoon brown sugar and ½ teaspoon plain flour. Mix in ½ cup lukewarm water until dissolved, and leave in a warm place for about 10 minutes or until the surface of mixture is frothy. Sift together remaining plain flour, rye flour, salt and remaining sugar, returning husks in sifter to bowl. Stir in caraway seeds. Make a well in centre. Combine creamed yeast mixture with remaining lukewarm water, 2 tablespoons sourdough starter and oil. Add to well in flour mixture and mix well. If dough is too dry, add extra water. Turn dough onto a lightly floured work surface and knead until smooth and elastic. Halve the dough and shape into 2 rounds. Place both rounds side by side in a greased 21 × 15 cm (8½ × 6 in) loaf tin. Cover tin with a clean cloth and leave to rise in a warm place for about 45 minutes or until dough reaches top edge of tin. Brush top of dough with water and bake in a preheated hot oven (200°C/400°F) for 35–40 minutes. Turn out and cool on a wire rack.

NOTE: This mixture can be doubled in quantity to make 2 loaves.

NORWEGIAN SWEET BREAD

In many parts of the world, beer is added to bread to give extra flavour and richness. This good-tasting Norwegian bread has a full flavour and delicious chewy texture.

30g (1 oz) compressed yeast
1¼ cups lukewarm milk
6 cups plain flour
½ cup sugar
3 teaspoons salt
½ teaspoon ground cloves
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1½ cups light beer
½ cup golden syrup
2 cups rye flour
1 cup raisins

Soften yeast in warm milk in a large bowl and let stand for 5 minutes. Beat in 1 cup plain flour, the sugar, salt, cloves and pepper. Cover bowl with a tea-towel and stand in a warm place for 40 minutes or until dough is light and bubbly. Add beer and golden syrup. Beat in rye flour and raisins, and enough of the remaining plain flour to make a moderately stiff dough. Turn dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead for 8–10 minutes or until smooth and elastic. Place in a greased bowl, turning dough to grease surface. Cover and allow to rise in a warm place for about 1 hour or until doubled in bulk. Knock dough back and rest for 10 minutes. Divide dough into thirds and shape into 3 round loaves. Place on greased baking trays, cover and let rise for 35–40 minutes or until doubled in bulk. Bake in a preheated moderately hot oven (190°C/375°F) for about 40 minutes. Makes 3.

SALLY LUNN

4 cups flour
1 teaspoon salt
30 g (1 oz) compressed yeast
1 teaspoon sugar
2 eggs
1 egg yolk
1 cup cream
¼ cup lukewarm water
¼ cup milk and 3 teaspoons caster sugar to glaze

Place flour and salt in a large bowl. In a separate bowl, cream yeast with sugar. Beat whole eggs with egg yolks and strain into creamed yeast mixture. Stir in cream and whisk until frothy. Add lukewarm water. Pour yeast mixture into the flour and mix to a soft dough, adding a little more water if necessary. Beat well, then put in a greased bowl and cover with lightly oiled plastic wrap and clean tea-towel. Put in a warm place to rise for about 1½ hours or until doubled in bulk. Turn dough onto a lightly floured work surface and knead lightly. Halve dough and shape into 2 rounds about 20 cm (8 in) in diameter. Put rounds into 2 greased 20 cm (8 in) cake tins and bake in a preheated hot oven (200°C/400°F) for 20–25 minutes. Combine milk and sugar and heat gently to dissolve sugar. Remove cakes from oven, brush with milk and sugar glaze and return to oven for 30 seconds to dry glaze. Serve warm with butter, or sliced, toasted and buttered. Makes 2.

OLD-FASHIONED PENNY BUNS

5 cups flour
½ teaspoon salt
15 g (½ oz) compressed yeast
¼ cup plus ½ teaspoon sugar
2¼ cups lukewarm milk
90 g (3 oz) butter
1 egg, beaten
½ cup currants
¼ cup sugar and ½ cup water to glaze

Place 2½ cups flour and the salt in a large bowl. Cream yeast with ½ teaspoon sugar in a small bowl. Stir in about ½ cup milk until dissolved. Make a well in flour and pour in yeast mixture. Mix to a soft dough, using a little more milk if necessary, and beat well. Put in a greased bowl, cover with damp tea-towel and set aside to rise for 30–40 minutes. Warm remaining milk and melt butter in it. Allow to cool to lukewarm, and add egg. Stir into risen flour mixture together with currants, and remaining flour and sugar. Beat well, then cover bowl with lightly oiled plastic wrap and a clean tea-towel. Set aside to rise in a warm place for about 1½ hours or until doubled in bulk. Turn onto a floured work surface, punch your fist into dough and knead lightly. Shape pieces of dough into small buns and place on a greased baking tray so buns are just touching each other. Cover loosely with a cloth and allow to rise for 15 minutes. Bake the buns in a preheated hot oven (200°C/ 400°F) for 15–20 minutes. Meanwhile, make glaze. Put sugar and water in a small saucepan and heat gently, stirring until sugar dissolves. Increase heat and boil for 3 minutes, without stirring. Remove buns from oven, brush with glaze and replace in hot oven for about 30 seconds to dry glaze. Serve warm from oven, with or without butter; or cold, sliced and spread with butter, or toasted with butter. Makes about 15.

BERLIN DOUGHNUTS (RUSSIAN JAM DOUGHNUTS)

30 g (1 oz) compressed yeast
¼ cup lukewarm water
60 g (2 oz) butter
1 cup milk
¼ cup sugar
2 eggs, beaten
1 teaspoon salt
3¾ cups flour
1 teaspoon grated lemon rind
1 egg white
raspberry jam
oil for deep-frying
icing sugar

Dissolve yeast in lukewarm water. Heat butter and milk in a saucepan, stirring until butter has melted. Cool to lukewarm. Combine yeast mixture, butter and milk mixture, sugar, eggs and salt in a large bowl and beat well. Add flour and lemon rind, beating well. Put in a greased bowl, cover bowl with a tea-towel and let rise in a warm place for about 45 minutes or until doubled in bulk. Turn onto a floured work surface and knead lightly. Wrap in plastic wrap and chill for 20 minutes. Roll out dough to a thickness of about 1 cm (½ in) and cut into rounds using a 5 cm (2 in) floured cutter. Brush half the rounds using lightly beaten egg white. Push 1 teaspoon raspberry jam into centres of other rounds. Top jam rounds with rounds topped with egg white, pinching edges firmly together. Cover very loosely with a clean tea-towel and let them rise in a warm place for about 20 minutes or until almost doubled in size. Heat oil in a deep saucepan until a cube of bread dropped into the oil turns brown in 60 seconds, or temperature reaches 180°C/350°F. Fry doughnuts a few at a time for 3–5 minutes or until golden-brown, turning once. Drain on crumpled paper towels. Dust with sifted icing sugar and serve warm. Makes about 12.

VARIATION

RING DOUGHNUTS: Roll out dough and cut into 5 cm (2 in) rounds as above. Omit jam but cut a small circle in the centre of each round. Leave to rise and fry as for Berlin Doughnuts, drain well then coat in caster sugar.

SWEDISH COFFEE BREADS

60 g (2 oz) butter or margarine
4 cups flour
1 cup sugar
pinch salt
30 g (1 oz) compressed yeast
1 cup lukewarm milk

To finish

beaten egg
sugar
chopped nuts
melted butter
cinnamon
currants
sultanas

Melt butter and allow to cool. Place flour in a bowl. Add sugar and salt, mix and make a well in centre. In a small bowl, cream yeast in a little of the milk and add to flour with butter and remaining milk. Mix with a spoon until all milk and butter have been absorbed, then put in a greased bowl, cover with a damp cloth and leave to rise in a warm place for 2 hours or until dough has doubled in size. Knock back and knead dough until soft and smooth. Divide into 3 portions and shape as follows.

COFFEE TWIST: Take 1 portion of dough and divide it into 3 equal pieces. Roll each piece of dough between floured hands to a long strand. Plait strands together lightly, then cover and allow twist to rise on a baking tray for 45 minutes. Brush with beaten egg, and sprinkle with sugar and chopped nuts. Bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/ 350°F) for 15–20 minutes. Alternatively, bake without egg glaze, brush with honey and sprinkle with nuts when twist comes hot from the oven. Makes 1.

CINNAMON RING: Roll out second portion of dough as thinly as possible on a floured work surface. Brush with melted butter and sprinkle heavily with sugar and cinnamon. Roll up like a Swiss roll and join the ends together to make a ring. Make sure ends are well sealed. Place ring on baking tray to rise. Cut almost through dough at 2.5 cm (1 in) intervals with scissors. Turn leaves of dough thus formed to alternate sides to expose filling. Allow to rise again for 45 minutes. Brush with beaten egg and bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for 15–20 minutes. Makes 1.

FRUIT AND NUT BUNS: Roll out remaining portion of dough as thinly as possible on a floured work surface. Brush with melted butter and sprinkle heavily with sugar, currants, sultanas and chopped nuts. Roll up like a Swiss roll and cut into 2.5 cm (1 in) slices to form small buns. Decorate each bun by cutting with scissors in different patterns according to your imagination. Allow to rise on a baking tray for 45 minutes. Brush with beaten egg and bake in a preheated hot oven (200°C/400°F) for 5–10 minutes. Makes about 12.

HONEY POTATO BUNS

Honey and freshly mashed potato make these buns beautifully tender and moist. Serve them with marmalade for tea or brunch, or split and toast them like English muffins.

15 g (½ oz) compressed yeast
¼ cup lukewarm water or potato cooking water
3 tablespoons milk
1 cup vegetable oil
½ cup honey
½ cup lukewarm, freshly cooked, sieved potatoes (no milk or seasoning added)
1½ teaspoon salt
1 egg, beaten
about 3 cups flour
melted butter to glaze

Stir yeast into water in a small bowl until dissolved. In a large bowl, mix milk, oil, honey, potatoes and salt. Add egg, then yeast mixture. Stir in flour, 1 cup at a time, to make a soft but not sticky dough. Turn out onto a floured work surface and knead until dough is smooth and elastic and small blisters appear just under the surface. Wash bowl in warm water, dry and oil lightly. Place dough in it and turn dough about so it is lightly oiled all over. Cover with damp tea-towel and let it rise in a warm place for about 1½ hours or until doubled in bulk. Pat dough out into a rectangle on a floured work surface and cut into 24 even pieces. Roll into balls and place in a greased, shallow baking tin, about 35 × 25 cm (14 × 10 in). Cover loosely with a damp cloth and let rise in a warm place for about 45 minutes or until doubled in bulk. Brush with melted butter and bake in a preheated hot oven (220°C/ 425°F) for 12–15 minutes or until golden. Makes 24.

MIX AND DROP ROLLS

These rolls don’t need any kneading or shaping, but they offer all the fun of working with yeast, plus scope for creative additions.

1 cup lukewarm water
15 g (½ oz) compressed yeast
¼ cup sugar
1 teaspoon salt
1 egg, beaten
¼ cup vegetable oil
3 cups flour

Put water into a large bowl and stir in yeast until dissolved. Add sugar, salt and egg. Stir mixture well, then let stand for about 10 minutes until bubbly. Add oil and half the flour and beat with your hand until very smooth, then add remaining flour and beat in. Put in a greased bowl, cover with damp tea-towel and leave in a warm place for about 30 minutes or until dough has almost doubled in bulk. Drop dough into greased deep muffin tins so that each cup is half full. Let rise in a warm place until almost doubled in bulk. Bake in a preheated hot oven (200°C/400°F) for 15 minutes or until golden-brown. Makes 24.

VARIATIONS

FLAVOURINGS 1: After dough has risen in bowl, divide into 4 parts and place each in a bowl with one of the following: ¼ cup drained, crushed pineapple; 4 tablespoons chopped raisins; 4 tablespoons chopped pecans, walnuts or almonds; ¼ cup grated cheese; ¼ cup crumbled crisp-fried bacon; 2 tablespoons mixed, chopped fresh herbs, or 2 teaspoons dried herbs mixed with 2 tablespoons chopped parsley; 1 tablespoon cocoa powder mixed with 1 tablespoon sugar; 2 teaspoons cinnamon or mixed spice. Mix each portion of dough with the added ingredient until well blended. Then spoon into tins, let rise and bake as in the basic recipe.

FLAVOURINGS 2: Before putting dough into muffin tins, place one of the following ingredients into each greased tin: 1 teaspoon butter, 1 teaspoon brown sugar and 3 pecan or walnut halves; or 1 teaspoon butter and 1 teaspoon shredded coconut; or 1 teaspoon butter and 1 teaspoon jelly-style jam. Half fill prepared tins with dough, let rise and bake as in the basic recipe.

BRAN ROLLS

1 cup lukewarm water
30 g (1 oz) compressed yeast
1 cup boiling water
250 g (8 oz) butter or margarine
2 cup sugar
1 cup unprocessed bran
1½ teaspoons salt
2 eggs, beaten
6 cups flour

Put lukewarm water into a large bowl and stir in yeast until dissolved. In another bowl, pour boiling water over butter or margarine, stir in sugar, bran and salt and let stand until lukewarm. Stir eggs into bran mixture. Add yeast mixture and mix well. Stir in flour 1 cup at a time. Put in a greased bowl, cover with damp tea-towel and let rise in a warm place for about 2½ hours or until almost doubled in bulk. Knock dough down and drop by spoonfuls into greased muffin tins, filling cups half full. Let rise in a warm place for about 1 hour or until almost doubled in bulk. Bake in a preheated moderately hot oven (190°C/375°F) for about 15 minutes or until golden. Makes 48.

YOGURT

Yogurt has a long history and reputation for promoting health and longevity. In the Middle East and India, yogurt is part of the basic daily diet and is frequently used in cooking.

Yogurt is a fermented milk product, with a pleasantly tangy taste and a smooth, refreshing texture. It can be made from cow’s, sheep’s or goat’s milk, full cream or skim. Flavoured and sweetened yogurts are available commercially, as well as plain yogurts, but the latter is easily prepared at home.

Ways to use yogurt: Plain or flavoured yogurt is a delicious, soothing dessert. Plain yogurt may take the place of cream with an apple pie, steamed pudding or fruit salad; topped with honey and walnuts, in Greek fashion, it appeals to young and old; and it complements perfectly fresh berry fruits, such as strawberries and raspberries.

Yogurt accompanies curries and Indian vegetable dishes, Middle Eastern dishes such as lentils and rice, or fried eggplant. Meats and vegetables are often cooked in yogurt, and yogurt can serve as the base of a spicy marinade for chicken. Salads can be dressed with yogurt dressing, or the same basic ingredients may be combined as a dip or spread, or even as a chilled summer soup. Hot vegetable soups can be enriched with yogurt, and in summer yogurt blended with water and garnished with mint makes a most refreshing and cooling drink (see Lassi).

Cooking with yogurt: Yogurt curdles if cooked for a long time, for example in recipes such as meatballs in yogurt, or yogurt soup. To prevent this, the yogurt should be mixed with cornflour – add 1 teaspoon cornflour mixed in a little cold water to every 1½ cups yogurt – slowly brought to the boil and then allowed to simmer over very low heat, uncovered, for about 10 minutes. Stir constantly with a wooden spoon, in one direction only, while bringing to the boil.

Home-made yogurt: Either fresh or powdered milk may be used, full cream or skim. If you want yogurt of a thick, junket-like consistency, evaporate some of the water from the milk by allowing it to simmer gently for about 20 minutes over low heat. Yogurt needs a ‘starter’ for fermentation; use 2 tablespoons commercial or home-made plain yogurt per 2 cups milk. Temperature is important for satisfactory fermentation to take place. If you have a thermometer, the milk should reach 45°C/115°F when it is cooled after heating and before the yogurt starter is added. Or test by inserting a finger into the milk for a count of 10 by which time the heat from the milk will ‘sting’ your finger.

NOTE: Automatic yogurt makers, which keep the mixture at a constant temperature, can be used.

Yogurt cheese: If yogurt is turned into a muslin-lined sieve and left to drain overnight, the result is a soft, creamy sort of cheese, called labna in the Middle East. It may be eaten as is, or flavoured with herbs, spices or garlic, or added to salads or vegetable dishes.

Yogurt cream cheese: For a creamier cheese combine cream with plain yogurt before draining. The resulting soft cream cheese is delicious with fruit and has many other uses.

Ways to use yogurt cream cheese:

• Halve a small ripe melon, remove seeds, fill with a few spoonfuls of yogurt cream cheese and sprinkle with a little brown sugar.

• Serve melon and yogurt cream cheese without the sugar.

• Curl a few slices of prosciutto and serve with yogurt cream cheese as a first course.

• Mound about ½ cup yogurt cream cheese on a dessert plate, mask with sweetened cream and surround with any fresh summer fruits, or sliced or halved stewed apricots, plums or peaches.

• Serve a bowl of yogurt cream cheese with a square of guava paste or Quince Paste.

• Offer a little black pumpernickel bread or Scottish oatcakes with yogurt cream cheese to be served in place of a cheese board.

HOME-MADE YOGURT (1)

2 cups milk
2 tablespoons plain yogurt

Heat milk to boiling in casserole dish and when froth starts to rise remove from heat. Leave until milk is warm, then beat 2 tablespoons milk into yogurt and set aside. Allow remaining milk to cool to a little more than blood heat (45°C/115°F), or test as described. Remove skin on top of milk and gently mix in yogurt starter, stirring only a few times to blend. Cover dish with lid, wrap in a blanket or thick cloth and leave undisturbed in a warm place for 8–10 hours or until thickened. Chill for at least 4 hours before using. Makes about 1½ cups.

HOME-MADE YOGURT (2)

This recipe makes a thick, creamy yogurt. Dieters should make the skim milk variation.

2 cups milk
¼ cup full-cream milk powder
2 tablespoons plain yogurt

Set aside 2 tablespoons fresh milk and stir milk powder into remainder. Heat gently to boiling point, stirring occasionally to dissolve milk powder. Simmer very gently for 20 minutes. Remove skin from top of milk and pour milk into a small casserole dish. Leave to cool until a little warmer than blood heat (45°C/115°F), or test as described. Beat yogurt into reserved 2 tablespoons milk and mix very gently into warm milk, stirring only a few times to blend. Cover dish with a lid, wrap in a thick cloth or blanket and leave undisturbed in a warm place for 8–10 hours or until thickened. Chill for at least 4 hours before using. Makes about 1¼ cups.

VARIATION

SKIM MILK YOGURT: Replace milk powder and fresh milk with 1 cup skim milk powder and 1½ cups water. Use low-fat yogurt as a starter.

YOGURT CREAM CHEESE

This soft creamy cheese is a excellent with fruit or fruit pastes (quince, guava). It can also be spooned over tomatoes, or combined with herbs and used to stuff tomatoes.

2 cups plain yogurt
1 cup cream

In a bowl combine yogurt and cream. Pour mixture into a sieve lined with a double thickness of dampened cheesecloth and set over a bowl. Let mixture drain for 8 hours or until whey has drained off and curds are firm. Makes about 1½ cups.

YOGURT CHEESE WITH FRESH HERBS

This lovely fresh cheese is good with rye, black or any whole-grain bread; it makes a light meal served with a salad.

2½ cups plain yogurt
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon sour cream
½ clove garlic, crushed
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
2 teaspoons chopped mixed fresh herbs (oregano, thyme, dill, chives)

Pour yogurt into a colander or sieve lined with muslin or cheesecloth and set over a bowl. Tie up with a string so that it forms a bag. Lift it out of colander and leave it to drain overnight, tying string to a wooden spoon across a bowl. Next day, tip drained curds from bag into a bowl and beat until smooth, adding a little salt and pepper and the sour cream. Mix garlic with half the herbs and fold in. Form into a round flat shape, or pile into a small dish, and sprinkle over remaining herbs. Chill for 1–2 hours before serving. Serves 4.

NOTE: To get a good shape to the cheese, line an empty, washed, small margarine tub with cheesecloth, fill with cheese, then refrigerate for several hours. Turn onto plate and sprinkle with remaining herbs.

TURKISH YOGURT SOUP

4 tablespoons rice
5 cups good chicken or beef stock
1 tablespoon cornflour
2 cups plain yogurt
2 egg yolks, beaten
2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint

Cook rice in stock for 20 minutes. In separate pan, blend cornflour with a little yogurt, then add remaining yogurt, beating until smooth. Add egg yolks and a few spoons hot stock and whisk well. Stir over low heat until thickened, but do not allow to boil. Add yogurt mixture to simmering stock. Cook for a further 2 minutes, stirring constantly. Thin with a little water if necessary. Serve sprinkled with chopped mint. Serves 6.

QUICK YOGURT SOUP

2 cups plain yogurt, chilled
1 cup tomato juice, chilled
2 tablespoons parsley sprigs
2 tablespoons chopped shallot
1 tablespoon fresh mint sprigs
1 teaspoon fresh oregano sprigs or ¼ teaspoon dried
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 cup finely chopped cucumber
black olives and crusty bread to serve

Put yogurt, tomato juice and herbs into a blender or food processor and process until herbs are finely chopped. Pour into 4 soup bowls and top with cucumber. Serve with black olives and crusty bread. Serves 4.

CHICKEN IN YOGURT

1.5 kg (3 Ib) chicken joints, skinned
1½ cups plain yogurt
1 large red or green pepper, cored, seeded and finely chopped
1 teaspoon paprika
5 cm (2 in) piece fresh ginger, peeled and grated
2 green chillies, seeded and crushed
4 cloves garlic, crushed
1 teaspoon salt
5 tablespoons finely chopped parsley or fresh coriander

Prick chicken all over with very sharp fork and place in a bowl. Combine yogurt with pepper, paprika, ginger, chillies, garlic and salt. Pour over chicken, cover and marinate overnight in refrigerator, turning from time to time. Next day, heat a large pan, add chicken and marinade and stir in parsley. Cover and cook on high heat for 5 minutes, then reduce heat to medium and cook for about 20 minutes or until chicken is tender. Turn chicken over to coat evenly in yogurt mixture, and serve immediately. Serves 6.

MOGUL CHICKEN

Convenient chicken pieces, marinated in yogurt and spices and baked golden-brown, are delicious hot or cold.

6 half-breasts of chicken
2 teaspoons grated lemon rind
½ cup plain yogurt
¼ cup oil
1 onion, grated
2 cloves garlic, crushed
2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger
1 tablespoon curry powder
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon paprika
8 cm (3 in) cinnamon stick, broken into pieces
1 teaspoon salt

Remove skin from chicken and make 3 or 4 deep diagonal slashes in each piece. Place chicken in one layer in a large shallow baking dish. Combine remaining ingredients and spoon over chicken, rubbing it in and coating thoroughly. Cover and refrigerate for 12 hours, turning pieces over and rubbing in marinade several times. Remove dish from refrigerator 1½ hours before serving time. Stand at room temperature for 1 hour, then remove chicken pieces, place a rack in dish and arrange chicken on it, bony side up, in one layer. Place in a preheated hot oven (200°C/400°F) and bake for 15 minutes or until lightly coloured, then turn pieces over and baste with marinade. Bake for 10–15 minutes more, basting again after 7 minutes. Chicken is done when it is golden-brown and juices run clear when thickest part of flesh is pierced with a fine skewer. Serve hot or at room temperature. Serve 6.

NOTE: For cold chicken to eat in the fingers, you might like to lift the meat from the bone when it is cool enough, and cut each breast diagonally in half.

YOGURT SALAD DRESSING

1 cup plain yogurt
1 tablespoon vinegar or lemon juice
2 teaspoons grated onion or finely chopped shallot
salt and freshly ground black pepper
chopped fresh herbs as desired

Whisk together yogurt, vinegar or lemon juice and onion or shallot. Season with salt and pepper and add herbs if desired. Use with green salads, chicken salads, cooked vegetable salads, beetroot. Makes 1 cup.

YOGURT MOUSSE

2 cups plain yogurt
4 tablespoons brown sugar
grated rind and juice 2 lemons
grated rind and juice ½ orange
2 tablespoons powdered gelatine
¼ cup water
3 egg whites
bananas, lemon juice and brown sugar to serve

Put yogurt into a large bowl and beat in sugar, lemon and orange juice and rind. Soak gelatine in water and dissolve over hot water. Fold gently into the yogurt mixture. Whip egg whites until they hold soft peaks and fold into yogurt mixture. Chill for 2 hours and serve on the same day; the texture changes if kept too long. Serve with sliced bananas sprinkled with lemon juice and brown sugar. Serves 6.

YOGURT HONEY CAKES

Light griddle-type cakes, soaked in hot syrup then served warm with honey and cream.

3 cups water
2½ cups sugar
1½ tablespoons lemon juice
½ teaspoon vanilla essence
1 cup plain yogurt
¼ cup cream
2 eggs
2 cups plain flour
1 teaspoon bicarbonate of soda
250 g (8 oz) butter
honey and sweetened whipped cream to serve

Mix water, sugar and lemon juice in a saucepan, bring to the boil and simmer for 5 minutes. Stir in vanilla and keep this syrup hot.

Beat yogurt with cream and eggs until smooth. Sift flour with bicarbonate of soda and gradually stir into yogurt mixture. Heat half the butter in a frying pan and drop in tablespoonfuls of the batter, spaced well apart. Cook until golden-brown underneath, turn and cook other side. As cakes are cooked, drop into hot sugar syrup, leave for 5 minutes then remove to a platter.

When you have used up half the batter, pour off any remaining butter from the frying pan, wipe it out quickly and repeat the cooking process with remaining butter and remaining batter. Soak in hot syrup as before, remove to platter and allow to cool a little.

Split each cake into halves, spread with honey and top with whipped cream. Serve immediately. Makes about 20.

YORKSHIRE PUDDING

The Yorkshire pudding of England should be crisp, light, well puffed and golden. It is made from a very simple batter mixture that is baked in the oven and is traditionally served with roast beef. In Yorkshire it is sometimes served separately, before the meat. Yorkshire pudding can be baked in one tin or in individual muffin tins. Some people like to place the joint on a trivet and pour the batter directly into the baking dish beneath so the pudding bakes under the meat and catches the drippings as the meat roasts. Have the batter ingredients at room temperature before mixing for maximum rising. For recipe.

YULE LOG (BÛCHE DE NOËL)

The traditional French Christmas cake is log-shaped, covered with chocolate butter cream (crème au beurre) and patterned to represent the bark of a log. The origin of the yule log may have been the custom of sending a log on Christmas Eve to the house to which you were invited for Christmas day, so guests could enjoy a roaring log fire.

YULE LOG

½ cup flour
½ teaspoon baking powder
¼ teaspoon salt
60 g (2 oz) dark chocolate, chopped
4 eggs
¾ cup caster sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla essence
¼ teaspoon bicarbonate of soda
2 tablespoons cold water
extra caster sugar
1 quantity Chocolate Crème au Beurre

Sift together flour, baking powder and salt. Melt chocolate in a heatproof bowl over hot water. Put eggs into a bowl, add sugar and beat over hot water, or on highest speed of electric mixer, until mixture is very light and thick and greatly increased in volume. Fold sifted flour mixture and vanilla into egg mixture all at once. Stir bicarbonate of soda and cold water into melted chocolate and fold quickly and evenly into cake mixture. Turn mixture into a greased and lined 38 × 25 × 2.5 cm (15 × 10 × 1 in) Swiss roll tin. Bake cake in a preheated hot oven (200°C/400°F) for 15 minutes or until cakes springs back when centre is lightly touched. Loosen edges and turn onto a tea-towel thickly dusted with caster sugar. Peel off lining paper and trim edges of cake with a sharp knife. Roll immediately in towel and leave to cool on a wire rack for at least 1 hour. When cold, carefully unroll cake and spread with one-third of chocolate butter cream. Roll cake once more and cut off one end of cake at an angle. Place roll on plate or board, arrange cut piece of cake alongside to resemble a stump and cover whole ‘log’ with remaining butter cream. Make a bark-like finish with a fork and chill until serving time.