Margaret Fulton’s Encyclopedia of Food and Cookery

LADIES’ FINGERS

This name belongs to two completely different foods. The first is okra with its tapering green pods (see Okra). The second kind of fingers are cigarette-shaped pastries which may have a savoury meat filling and form part of the Middle Eastern array of hors d’oeuvre called mezze, or, with a sweet filling, are a Cypriot accompaniment to coffee.

In some sweet recipes, Ladies’ Fingers may refer to sponge fingers or boudoir biscuits.

LADIES’ FINGERS (BAHEM BAHGEN)

3 large onions, finely chopped
3 tablespoons olive oil
750 g (1½ lb) minced lamb
2 × 425 g cans tomatoes, drained
3 tablespoons tomato paste
1 teaspoon sugar
¾ teaspoon ground allspice
2 tablespoons lemon juice
1½ teaspoon salt
freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons pine nuts
375 g (12 oz) filo pastry
125 g (4 oz) butter, melted

Fry onions in oil until soft. Combine meat, tomatoes and tomato paste in a bowl. Add onions, sugar, allspice, lemon juice, salt and a good grinding of pepper. Mix with your hands, squeezing and kneading mixture for 2 minutes to blend smoothly. Add pine nuts and mix through. Unfold pastry on dry tea-towel. Cover with another dry tea-towel, then with a damp one. Keep pastry covered while you are working to prevent it drying out.

Remove one sheet, brush lightly with melted butter and place another sheet on top. Brush again with butter. Continue until you have 4 layers of pastry. Cut into 13 cm (5 in) squares. Spoon a line of meat filling on one side of each square. Fold edges in and roll up like a cigarette. Repeat with remaining pastry and filling. Brush tops of pastry rolls with butter, place on greased baking trays and bake in a preheated hot oven (200°C/400°F) for 20 minutes until crisp and lightly browned. Serve hot. Makes about 24.

LAKSA

A Singaporean–Malaysian soupy noodle dish, said to be first created by the ancient Chinese who migrated to Malaysia, laksa is sold as a meal from hundreds of soup vendors, all of whom have their own special recipe. This Southeast Asian fast food provides the diner with a rich, filling, many-layered experience.

Laksa starts off with a spice paste, which is made into a rich coconut broth. Then crab, fishcakes, prawns or chicken is added with noodles and a few or great many garnishes. The word laksa means ‘ten thousand’, because there are so many garnishes added.

Laksa can be elaborate or simple and these days is easy to make at home by using one of the many laksa pastes commercially available. Chinese chopsticks and china spoons are a must for laksa.

CHICKEN LAKSA

For a feast, finish this hot and spicy noodle soup with garnishes such as quartered hard-boiled eggs, matchsticks of cucumber, coriander or mint sprigs. Offer wedges of lime or lemon for diners to squeeze over the laksa.

1 × size 15 chicken, preferably free-range
1 onion, halved
1 × 2.5 cm (1 in) piece ginger, sliced
1 tablespoon oil
2 tablespoons commercial laksa paste
about 3 cups chicken stock or water
3 cups coconut milk
½ cup coconut cream
500 g (1 lb) rice vermicelli, soaked in cold water
2 cups bean sprouts, tailed
½ cup crisp fried shallots

Wash the chicken inside and out. Place in a large saucepan with enough water to cover. Add the onion and ginger. Bring to the boil, skim the surface, lower the heat, and simmer, covered, for 40 minutes. Remove the chicken, straining and reserving the cooking liquid. Cool, cut the chicken into large pieces and remove the skin and bones. Shred as much chicken as you wish to use into strips.

Heat the oil in a large saucepan. Add the laksa paste mixture, stir until aromatic and oil separates from the paste. Add chicken stock or water and coconut milk, stirring constantly until boiling. Do not stop stirring, or coconut milk may curdle. Slowly add coconut cream, stirring to combine.

Drain the soaked vermicelli and drop into the coconut milk mixture, adding extra stock if necessary to make enough of the soup liquor. Bring back to the boil then remove from heat. Drain the noodles, using a slotted spoon or tongs, and divide between 4 deep soup bowls. Add the bean sprouts and chicken. Carefully ladle the hot soup onto the noodles. Top with fried shallots and, if liked, some chilli paste. Serves 4.

NOTE: To make crisp-fried shallots, either fry thinly sliced shallots until crisp and golden in oil or toss in a little oil and cook in a microwave oven on high until golden, turning frequently.

LAMB

You can always be sure that you are buying true lamb because the carcase must, by law, be stamped for its full length with the word ‘lamb’ after passing inspection. As it comes from young animals, lamb is basically a tender, succulent meat. Top-quality lamb, freshly cut, has fine-grained, light reddish-pink meat, with an even edge of firm, white fat. Avoid meat which is coarse-grained, dull in colour or lacking in fat, or whose fat is discoloured. These can indicate an animal which was in poor condition.

See Meat for amount to buy, factors determining tenderness, testing meat for doneness, carving, etc.

ROAST LAMB

Choice cuts for roasting:

Leg: May be cut short or long (to include some of the chump). Many butchers crack the shank bone but it looks better and is easier to carve if the bone is left in one piece. A leg of lamb may also be boned and stuffed.

Loin: The juiciest cut. It may be roasted on the bone or boned, rolled and tied. Loin is easy to carve – just cut across between the bones, or, if it is boneless, into thick slices. Make sure the butcher has chined a bone-in loin (chopped through the backbone at intervals, or removed it) so that it is ready to carve.

Saddle: Consists of 2 loins still joined together – an impressive party piece but harder to carve than a single loin, as the backbone is retained (for carving, See Meat).

Chump: A superb small, compact roast with only a small proportion of bone.

Rack of lamb: Consists of 6–8 rib cutlets. It is a luxurious little roast and you can get just the size you want by specifying the number of cutlets. Rack is easy to carve – just cut down between the bones. The butcher will remove the chine bone (backbone), trim off excess fat and clean the ends of the rib bones. A full rack may be cut into single portion racks of 2–4 cutlets each before roasting, or may be roasted whole, then cut into single or 2–4 cutlet portions.

Crown roast: Made from 2 racks of lamb, bent round and tied together, with the meat inside and bones outside. The skin and excess fat are removed before tying.

Economical cuts for roasting:

Shoulder: Excellent eating but fattier than the leg, making it especially suitable for eating cold. Shoulder can be roasted on the bone but for easier carving it is often boned, rolled and tied. It may be stuffed before being tied.

Forequarter: Similar to shoulder, usually sold boned and rolled.

To roast lamb: Both choice and economical cuts may be roasted in the same way. Have the meat at room temperature; remove skin if desired. Tie meat into a compact shape if necessary so that it will cook evenly. Weigh it and place, fatty side up, on a greased rack in a roasting tin. If lamb is lean, add 2 tablespoons butter or dripping to pan. Place lamb in the centre of a preheated hot oven (220°C/425°F) for 20 minutes, then reduce heat to moderate (180°C/ 350°F) and continue to roast, basting with pan juices every 20 minutes. Rest for 15–20 minutes in turned-off oven with door ajar, or other warm place, before carving. (This helps to settle juice back in the meat and makes carving easy. If carved as soon as it is cooked juices run too freely on the plate, making it all look rather unappetising.)

Allow a total roasting time of approximately 20 minutes per 500 g (1 lb) plus 20 minutes resting for lamb pink in the centre, or 30 minutes per 500 g (1 lb) plus 30 minutes resting for well-done lamb. Test with a fine skewer in the thickest part; juice will run pink for medium-done lamb and clear for well-done.

Roast Rack of Lamb: Prepare racks as described above. Slice away skin and excess fat, leaving a good, even layer of fat. Score fat with shallow, diagonal cuts in a lattice pattern. Season with freshly ground pepper. Place rack, fatty side up, in a roasting tin and roast in a preheated moderately hot oven (190°C/ 375°F) for 15–20 minutes for lamb which is juicy and pink near the bone. Cook for a further 5–10 minutes for medium- to well-done meat.

Herbed Racks of Lamb: For 2 racks of lamb (6–7 cutlets each), combine ½ cup olive oil with juice and grated rind 1 lemon, pinch salt, freshly ground black pepper and 2 cloves garlic, chopped. Place lamb in this mixture, turning to coat it all over. Sprinkle with chopped fresh rosemary, or a combination of chopped fresh parsley and thyme, and leave to marinate for at least 2 hours, turning occasionally. Roast as for Roast Rack of Lamb.

Parslied Racks of Lamb: Score and season 2 racks of lamb as for Roast Rack of Lamb. Melt 60 g (2 oz) butter and combine with ¼ cup chopped parsley, 1½ cups fresh breadcrumbs, salt, freshly ground black pepper and a few drops lemon juice. Toss lightly. Cover scored side of lamb with a thick compact layer of breadcrumb mixture, pressing crumbs firmly onto meat. Roast as for Roast Rack of Lamb.

GRILLED LAMB

It is best to have lamb steaks, chops or cutlets cut 2–2.5 cm (1¾ in) thick for grilling or cooking over coals.

Choice cuts for grilling:Chump and loin chops, cutlets (ask the butcher not to fatten them), or noisettes (from a loin or rack of lamb which has been skinned, boned, rolled and tied, then cut across into slices).

To grill choice cuts: Have meat at room temperature. Trim off any skin and, if edged with fat, cut through fat to lean meat in several places to prevent buckling. Roll up tails of loin chops and secure with poultry pins or small skewers.

Preheat grill, brush meat with melted butter or oil and the grill rack with oil. Grill close to high heat for a minute or two on each side until seared, then continue to cook for 6–8 minutes longer, turning once. To test for doneness, See Meat.

Economical cuts for grilling:Leg steaks or chops, shoulder and forequarter chops. Not as tender as the choice cuts and usually need marinating for best results.

To grill economical cuts: Prepare the meat and the grill as for choice cuts. Grill close to high heat for a minute or two on each side until seared, then lower heat to moderate and continue to cook, turning once and brushing once or twice more with butter or oil. Allow 10–12 minutes’ total cooking. To test for doneness, See Meat.

SAUTÉED LAMB

This method is suitable for cutlets, noisettes and marinated economical cuts. Prepare meat as for grilling, above. Use a thick, heavy pan: heat on high heat for a few minutes, add just enough oil to coat the base and when it gives off a slight haze, put in the meat. Cook 30–60 seconds on each side until seared, then lower heat to moderate and continue to cook, turning once, until cooked as desired. When beads of pink juice appear on surface, meat is cooked but still pink in centre. For other ways to test for doneness, See Meat.

PAN-FRIED CRUMBED LAMB

Cutlets are the usual cut for this cooking method, but lamb steaks can also be used. Coat with egg and breadcrumbs and chill for 20 minutes. In a heavy frying pan, heat enough butter and oil to come halfway up the pieces of lamb. When foam subsides, arrange the pieces in one layer without crowding pan. Cook over moderate heat until golden-brown, then turn and cook other side. Drain on crumpled paper towels and serve immediately.

BRAISED AND STEWED LAMB

Some of the great lamb dishes – Irish Stew, curries and Navarin of Lamb – come into this category. Braising and stewing, involving long slow cooking with liquid, are ideal ways to cook some of the less tender cuts, such as neck or shoulder chops, breast of lamb or lamb shanks.

Ways to serve lamb chops, steaks and cutlets:

Herbed Lamb Chops: Melt 30 g (1 oz) butter and stir in 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh mint, thyme or rosemary, or 1 teaspoon dried. Score 4 thick lamb chops or noisettes on both sides with a sharp knife, place in one layer in a dish and drizzle herb butter over. Turn chops or noisettes to coat all over and leave to marinate for 1 hour, then grill or cook over hot coals as usual. Serves 4.

Lamb Cutlets Dijonnaise: Melt 30 g (1 oz) butter and stir in 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard. Place 8 lamb cutlets in one layer in a dish and drizzle mustard butter over. Turn cutlets to coat all over and leave to marinate for 1 hour, then dust them on both sides with flour and sauté in a little butter and oil. Serves 4.

Lamb Steaks with Orange: Dust 4 lamb steaks with seasoned flour and brown in butter and oil. Pour off fat, and add grated rind 1 orange and 4 tablespoons orange juice to pan. Cover and simmer gently for 30 minutes or until lamb is tender. Adjust seasoning and serve. Serves 4.

Chutney Chops: Score 4 thick chump chops with a sharp knife on both sides and rub in a highly spiced chutney. Leave to marinate at room temperature about for 1 hour, then grill or cook over hot coals as usual. Serves 4.

Oriental Lamb Chops: Mix ½ cup pineapple juice, 2 cloves garlic, crushed, and 2 tablespoons soy sauce. Marinate 4 forequarter chops in mixture for 3–4 hours, then remove chops, dry them and sauté in butter and oil. Serves 4.

Boning a leg of lamb: Using a sharp pointed knife, clear meat from protruding hip bone at wider end of leg, and remove bone. Cut away meat from shank bone and pull out bone. Working from wider end, clean meat from middle bone then remove from hip cavity. Fill hip cavity with stuffing and tie leg into a neat shape, tucking shank end into cavity.

Preparing a crown roast: Using 2 racks lamb, remove chine or bony part from meat end and scrape meat and fat from narrow end of each rib. Cut bone between each cutlet and tie racks into a circle with meat inside.

BRAISED LAMB SHANKS

6 lamb shanks
flour for dredging
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano, or 1 teaspoon dried
cup oil
grated rind 1 lemon
1 onion, chopped
1 cup chopped celery
1 cup chopped carrots
1 clove garlic, crushed
¾ cup red wine
¾ cup chicken or vegetable stock

Wipe shanks with a damp cloth. Dredge with flour, season with salt and pepper and press oregano onto surface. Heat oil in a frying pan and brown shanks a few at a time. Transfer to a large casserole and sprinkle with lemon rind. Add onion, celery, carrots and garlic to frying pan and cook, stirring, for 5 minutes. Add wine and stock, bring to the boil and simmer, stirring well, for a few minutes. Pour contents of pan over meat in casserole. Cover and bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for 1–1½ hours or until meat is tender. Thicken gravy with 1 tablespoon flour mixed with a little cold water. Serve with creamy mashed potatoes or boiled rice. Serves 6.

LAMB BOULANGÈRE

French housewives used to send Sunday’s leg of lamb on its bed of sliced vegetables to be cooked in the baker’s oven (after the bread came out) while the family were at church. The name – Baker’s Wife lamb – remains but today’s lamb is baked at home.

30 g (1 oz) butter
1 tablespoon olive oil
500 g (1 lb) onions, sliced
1 kg (2 lb) potatoes, peeled and finely sliced
1 clove garlic, chopped
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 leg of lamb
1 cup beef stock
chopped parsley

Heat butter and oil in a roasting tin and fry onions gently on top of stove until soft. Push onions to one side. Arrange a bed of potato slices in bottom of tin and spoon onions over them. Scatter garlic over and season with salt and pepper. Place lamb on top, pour stock over and place in a preheated very hot oven (220°C/425°F). Roast for 20 minutes, then reduce heat to moderate (180°C/350°F) and continue to roast, spooning pan juices over vegetables once or twice, until lamb is done as you like it. For lamb pink in the centre, allow, altogether, 20 minutes per 500 g (1 lb) plus 20 minutes. For well-done lamb, allow 30 minutes per 500 g (1 lb) plus 30 minutes. Rest for 15 minutes in turned-off oven with door ajar, then remove lamb, carve it and arrange meat on bed of vegetables. Sprinkle with chopped parsley and serve immediately. Serves 4–6, depending on size of leg.

NOTE: For easier carving the lamb may be boned and tied. Carve across into thick slices.

LEG OF LAMB BRETON

When a Breton housewife roasts the lamb which is a specialty of the region, it comes to the table on a bed of delicious white beans to soak up the garlic-flavoured juices.

Beans

1½ cups dried haricot beans, soaked overnight and drained
1 onion, quartered
1 clove garlic
8 black peppercorns
1 bouquet garni
salt
1 tablespoon butter
1 onion, chopped
1 tomato, peeled, seeded and chopped
chopped parsley

Lamb

1 × 1.5 kg (3 lb) leg of lamb
1 large clove garlic, sliced
freshly ground black pepper
30 g (1 oz) butter, softened
1 cup water
large pinch salt

Cook beans as usual (see Pulses). When beans soften, add quartered onion, garlic, peppercorns, bouquet garni and a little salt to the cooking water. Meanwhile cut several incisions between skin and flesh of lamb and push garlic slices into them. Season lightly with pepper and spread with softened butter. Put lamb on a rack in a roasting tin. Pour water into tin, add salt and place in preheated moderately hot oven (190°C/ 375°F). Roast the lamb for 1¼ hours, basting every 15 minutes with pan juices and adding a little extra water if juices dry up. This will produce lamb that is still quite pink. Roast for a further 20–30 minutes for well-done lamb. Remove lamb from oven and rest in a warm place for 20 minutes. Skim excess fat from pan juices. Drain beans when tender and remove onion, garlic, bouquet garni and peppercorns. Melt butter in a pan and cook chopped onion and tomato gently until soft. Add ½ cup juice from roasting tin and the beans, stirring gently so as not to crush them. Season with salt and pepper. Spoon beans onto a heated serving platter, sprinkle with parsley and place lamb on top. Serve any remaining pan juices separately. Serves 6–8.

FRENCH ROAST LAMB

Lamb cooked the French way is always moist and juicy. The lamb is basted throughout cooking with buttery stock.

1 × 2 kg (4 lb) leg of lamb
2 cloves garlic, finely sliced
60 g (2 oz) butter, melted
1 teaspoon salt
1¾ cups chicken stock
little white wine

Cut 5–6 slits in lamb with a sharp-pointed knife. Insert slices of garlic into each. Brush lamb with approximately 30 g (1 oz) melted butter and sprinkle with salt. Place lamb on a rack in a roasting tin and add 1¼ cups stock and remaining butter. Roast in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F), allowing 18–20 minutes per 500 g (1 lb) for lamb that is pink in the centre. Baste lamb every 15 minutes. Place lamb on a heated serving dish and keep warm. Skim fat from top of liquid in roasting tin then place tin over heat on top of stove. Bring to the boil, add a little white wine and remaining stock and allow to bubble, stirring, for a few minutes. Serve with lamb. Serves 6.

SWEDISH LAMB

In Sweden lamb is roasted on a bed of vegetables, with coffee and stock basting the meat for great flavour.

1 × 2–2.5 kg (4–5 lb) leg of lamb
2 teaspoons salt
2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
3 onions, sliced
3 carrots, sliced
1 cup hot beef stock
1½ cups hot, strong black coffee
1 tablespoon sugar
½ cup cream

Trim any excess fat from lamb. Rub salt and pepper into lamb and place on rack in a roasting tin over onions and carrots. Roast in a preheated hot oven (200°C/400°F) for 30 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to moderate (180°C/350°F) and add stock, coffee and sugar to tin. Continue cooking, basting frequently, until done to your taste. One hour longer gives meat that is tender and pink on the inside; in 1½ hours the meat becomes medium- to well-done. Transfer lamb to a heated platter and rest for 15–20 minutes. Rub vegetables and cooking liquid through a sieve or purée in a blender. Reheat with cream and serve with lamb. Serves 6–8.

ROAST LEG OF LAMB BENGAL

Indian cooks working in British households in the days of the Raj gave new dimensions to familiar foods – such as this exotic roast lamb.

1 leg of lamb

Marinade

1 cup plain yogurt
1 onion, chopped
3 cloves garlic
2 teaspoons tomato paste
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 teaspoons salt
freshly ground black pepper
1 cm (½ in) piece fresh ginger

Remove thin outer skin from lamb and trim off most of the fat. Place in a dish just large enough to hold it and prick all over with a fork. Put ingredients for marinade into a blender or food processor and process until smooth. If making by hand, chop onion, garlic and ginger finely and mix with other ingredients. Pour marinade over lamb, cover and leave in refrigerator overnight or for at least 6 hours, turning lamb once or twice. Place lamb on rack in a roasting tin. Roast in centre of a preheated very hot oven (230°C/450°F) for 15 minutes, then reduce heat to moderate (180°C/350°F) and continue to roast, basting frequently with marinade. Allow a total cooking time of 20 minutes per 500 g (1 lb) for lamb that is pink at the centre, or 25 minutes per 500 g (1 lb) for well-done. Test with a fine skewer in the thickest part; juice will run pink for medium-done lamb and clear for well-done. Rest lamb for 20 minutes in a warm place before carving. Serve with a purée of potatoes or lentils flavoured with coriander and cumin and a salad of tomatoes, mint and cucumber. Serves 6.

SPICED SHOULDER OF LAMB

In India, tough mutton is tenderised by marinating it in yogurt and spices. It is a delicious way to treat a shoulder of lamb.

1 shoulder of lamb, boned
juice 1 lemon
1 teaspoon ground cardamom
2 teaspoons ground coriander
good pinch saffron, crumbled (optional)
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 cup plain yogurt
2 onions, finely sliced
30 g (1 oz) butter

Score surface of lamb in a diamond pattern using a sharp knife. Rub in lemon juice, spices, salt and pepper. Spread yogurt over lamb. Leave to marinate in a glass or ceramic dish for 1–2 hours. Spread lamb on a rack in a roasting tin, cover with any marinade and roast in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for 30 minutes. Meanwhile, fry sliced onions in butter until lightly coloured. Spoon onions over meat and continue to roast for a further 30 minutes for medium-rare lamb. Serve, cut in strips, with boiled rice or a rice pilaf flavoured with sultanas and cinnamon. Serves 6.

HERBED LOIN OF LAMB

Give your butcher warning and he will bone the loin for this dish. The pungent flavour of garlic, parsley, rosemary and thyme gives a deliciously aromatic and gamey flavour to the lamb. Serve with creamy mashed potatoes and, if liked, Tomates à la Provençale.

1 × 1.5 kg (3 lb) loin of lamb
3 cloves garlic
salt
2 tablespoons mixed chopped fresh parsley, rosemary and thyme
freshly ground black pepper
30 g (1 oz) butter
¾ cup white wine
1 tablespoon flour
watercress or parsley to garnish

Ask the butcher to bone the loin of lamb. Otherwise, trim meat of any excess fat, remove fillet and bone. Crush garlic to a fine paste with 1 teaspoon salt. Mix garlic and herbs together and spread over inside of lamb. Replace fillet, roll up and tie at 2.5 cm (1 in) intervals. This may be done hours ahead for a more ‘gamey’ taste. Place meat in a roasting tin, sprinkle with salt and pepper, add butter to tin and pour in wine. Roast in a preheated moderately hot oven (190°C/375°F), basting often, for 45 minutes or until meat juices are clear.

Remove meat to a heated serving platter and rest in a warm place for 10–15 minutes before carving. Skim fat from the cooking juices. Mix 1 tablespoon of fat with the flour in a cup. Stir into pan juices, bring to the boil and simmer for a few minutes. Season with salt and pepper. If gravy is too thick, add a little stock or water. Remove string from meat and carve into thick slices, serving gravy separately. Garnish with a small bunch of watercress or parsley. Serves 6.

HERBED SHOULDER OF LAMB

Boned shoulder of lamb rolled around a generous layer of fresh herbs results in a roast with a great flavour.

1 shoulder of lamb, boned
2 tablespoons chopped chives
4 tablespoons chopped parsley
1 teaspoon chopped fresh lemon thyme or oregano
1 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary
1 tablespoon chopped fresh ginger
2 tablespoons oil
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Gravy

½ cup red wine
½ cup chicken or vegetable stock
salt

Spread boned meat out so it lies flat, cover it with waxed paper or plastic wrap and pound it with a mallet or rolling pin so it is of more or less even thickness. In a small bowl combine herbs, ginger and oil. Sprinkle surface of lamb with salt and pepper and spread herb mixture evenly over it. Roll up lamb tightly and tie at 5 cm (2 in) intervals with kitchen string. Brush lamb with a little oil, sprinkle with salt and pepper and place in a roasting tin. Roast in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for 1–1½ hours. Transfer to a heated platter and keep warm.

To make gravy, skim any excess fat from cooking juices and deglaze tin with wine and stock, stirring in brown bits clinging to bottom and sides. Reduce gravy by boiling over a high heat until thickened slightly, season with salt and pour into a heated sauceboat. Carve lamb in thick slices and serve it with gravy. Creamy mashed potatoes make a good accompaniment and help mop up the delicious juices. Serves 4–6.

NOTE: If you don’t have a supply of fresh herbs use 6 tablespoons chopped parsley and ¼ –½ teaspoon each of the dried herbs indicated as fresh in the recipe.

ITALIAN LAMB STEW

2 tablespoons oil
250 g (8 oz) bacon, rind removed, diced
1 onion, sliced
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1 kg (2 lb) leg or shoulder of lamb, boned, trimmed of excess fat and cut into 4 cm (1½ in) cubes
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary, or ¼ teaspoon dried
1 teaspoon chopped fresh marjoram, or ½ teaspoon dried
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons red wine
2 tablespoons tomato paste

Heat oil in a large, heavy frying pan. Add bacon, onion and garlic and sauté until golden. Remove to a plate. Add half the meat and brown on all sides. Remove, and brown remaining meat. Place meat in a heavy flameproof saucepan, add sautéed bacon, onion and garlic and season with salt, pepper, rosemary and marjoram. Stir in ½ cup red wine, bring to the boil and simmer until wine is reduced by half. Add tomato paste and enough water to cover meat. Cover and simmer gently for about 1½ hours or until meat is tender. Add remaining red wine just before serving to deepen flavour, and serve directly from pan. Serve with flat ribbon noodles or fluffy boiled rice. Serves 4–6.

HARICOT BEANS AND LAMB

¾ cup dried haricot beans, soaked overnight and drained
1 kg (2 lb) lamb neck or shoulder shops, trimmed of excess fat and cubed
1–2 tablespoons oil
2 medium onions, sliced
2 large tomatoes, peeled and sliced
2 tablespoons tomato paste
2 cups chicken stock or water
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 sprig fresh rosemary, or 1 teaspoon dried
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Cook beans in boiling water for 1 hour. Fry cubes of lamb in oil in a hot frying pan until brown. Add onions and cook until soft. Remove from pan and place in large flameproof casserole. Drain beans and add to casserole with tomatoes. Blend tomato paste with stock or water, lemon juice, rosemary, salt and pepper. Pour into casserole and bring to the boil on top of the stove. Reduce heat, cover and simmer for about 1 hour or until meat and beans are tender. Or cook in a preheated slow oven (150°C/300°F) for 1½ hours after bringing to the boil. Serves 6.

POT ROASTED LAMB SHOULDER

1 small shoulder of lamb, trimmed of excess fat, boned, rolled and tied
1 clove garlic, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons seasoned flour
2 tablespoons oil
2 medium potatoes, peeled
2 medium carrots, scraped
2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint, parsley or other herbs
½ cup water
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Make small slits in lamb and insert slices of garlic. Roll lamb in seasoned flour. Heat oil in large, heavy saucepan and slowly brown lamb on all sides. Add vegetables, herbs and water and season with salt and pepper. Cover and simmer on very low heat for 1–1½ hours or until lamb is tender. Serve with pan juices as gravy. Serves 4.

LAMB WITH PARSLEY SAUCE

Simple, old-fashioned and very good. Neck chops are beautifully sweet.

1.5 kg (3 lb) lamb neck chops
1 teaspoon salt
2 cups water
freshly ground black pepper
1½ tablespoons flour
¾ cup chopped parsley
1–2 teaspoons lemon juice

Place chops in a saucepan with salt and water. Bring to the boil, cover and simmer gently for 1 hour or until tender. Lift chops onto a heated serving dish, season with salt and pepper and keep hot. Blend flour with a little cold water and stir into cooking liquid. Bring to the boil, stirring constantly, and simmer a few minutes. Add parsley and lemon juice to taste and spoon over chops. Serve with boiled potatoes and carrots. Serves 6.

SPICED LAMB IN SOUR CREAM

5 tablespoons ghee or butter
1 kg (2 lb) boned lamb shoulder, trimmed of excess fat and cut into 2.5 cm (1 in) cubes
15 cardamom pods, bruised
6 curry leaves, or 1 bay leaf
6–8 cloves
6–8 black peppercorns
1 cup sour cream
cup plain yogurt
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon saffron threads, crumbled

Tomato and mint sambal

2 tomatoes, chopped
½ onion, sliced
1 tablespoon chopped fresh mint

Banana sambal

2 bananas, sliced
squeeze lemon juice
Cucumber and yogurt sambal
1 green cucumber, peeled, seeded and diced
1 clove garlic, crushed
½ cup plain yogurt

Heat ghee or butter in a heavy flameproof casserole or saucepan and fry lamb cubes in several batches, transferring them to a dish as they are browned. In remaining fat, sauté cardamom pods, curry leaves or bay leaf, cloves and peppercorns until cloves begin to pop. Return lamb to casserole with remaining ingredients and bring to the boil, stirring. Cover tightly with foil and lid and simmer, stirring once or twice, for 1½ hours, or until lamb is tender. Meanwhile, mix ingredients for fresh sambals.

Remove lamb with a slotted spoonto a dish and strain sauce into a bowl, discarding the solids. Return sauce to pan, add lamb and cook over a moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until sauce is reduced by about half. Transfer mixture to a heated serving dish and serve with boiled rice, fresh sambals and a choice of chutneys. Serves 6.

GORMEH SABZEE

This is a Persian stew made with lamb, a very large bunch of parsley (3 cups chopped) and kidney beans. It is economical, nutritious and delicious.

90 g (3 oz) butter
3 cups chopped parsley
1 bunch spring onions, chopped
1.5 kg (3 lb) lean boneless lamb (leg, chuck, shoulder), trimmed of excess fat and gristle and cut into 2.5 cm (1 in) cubes
salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 lemons
2 cups dried kidney beans, soaked overnight and drained
1 onion

Melt half the butter in a heavy flameproof casserole or saucepan and fry parsley and spring onions until bright green. Heat remaining butter in a frying pan, add meat and brown lightly. Do not crowd pan, but fry meat in several batches if necessary. Season with salt and pepper and add to parsley mixture. Add juice of 1 lemon and remaining lemon cut into 6 (use skin and flesh). Add water just to cover – about 1½ cups. Cover and simmer for about 1 hour or until meat is almost tender. Meanwhile, place beans in a saucepan with whole onion and water to cover, bring to the boil, reduce heat, cover and simmer for 30–45 minutes or until tender. Drain and discard onion. Add beans to casserole and continue cooking for about 25 minutes or until lamb is tender. Serve with pilaf or boiled rice. Serves 6–8.

NOTE: 4 cups drained, canned kidney beans may be used instead of dried.

DILLED LAMB SHANKS WITH SOUR CREAM SAUCE

6 lamb shanks
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon oil
60 g (2 oz) butter
1 large onion, chopped
1½ cups dry white wine
½ cup beef stock
1 bay leaf
2 tablespoons flour
3 tablespoons chopped fresh dill, or 2 teaspoons dried
1 cup sour cream

Trim excess fat from lamb shanks and season shanks with salt and pepper. Heat oil and half the butter in a frying pan and brown lamb shanks on all sides. Transfer to a flameproof casserole or heavy saucepan. Gently cook onion in fat remaining in frying pan until onion is transparent. Pour in wine and stock and bring to the boil. Add to lamb shanks in casserole with bay leaf. Simmer, covered, for about 1½ hours or until shanks are tender. Remove shanks to a heated plate and keep warm. Strain stock. Melt remaining butter in the casserole, add flour and stir over moderate heat for 2 minutes. Gradually add stock. Stir until mixture boils and thickens. Add dill and sour cream. Season with salt and pepper. Return lamb, heat through but do not boil. Serve with boiled new potatoes, tossed in butter, or boiled rice. Serves 6.

LAMB PILAU

An old and traditional Middle Eastern recipe. If liked, the spices can be tied in a muslin bag and removed before serving. The spices enhance the look of the finished dish; put them to one side when serving or eating.

90 g (3 oz) ghee or butter
1 shoulder of lamb, boned, trimmed of excess fat and cubed
½ cinnamon stick
12 cloves
5 black peppercorns
6 cardamom pods, bruised
1 teaspoon salt
freshly ground black pepper
6 cups water
2 cups rice
2 onions, sliced
¼ cup oil or ghee
¼ cup toasted slivered almonds

Heat half the ghee or butter in a frying pan and brown meat cubes. This is best done in 2 batches (do not overcrowd pan or you will get a stewed result). Place in a large flameproof casserole or saucepan. Add spices, salt, pepper and 1 cup water. Cover and cook gently for about 30 minutes or until meat is tender. Rinse rice well and drain. Heat remaining ghee or butter in a saucepan, add rice and cook, stirring, about 5 minutes. Add remaining water, bring to the boil and cook for 8–10 minutes. Make 3 or 4 holes in rice with handle of a wooden spoon. Place cooked meat on top of rice with about ¾ cup of the meat juices. Cover and cook gently for about 15 minutes. Meanwhile, fry onions in oil or ghee until pale golden and slightly crispy (but do not burn). Fork meat through rice to mix and fluff up rice. Turn onto heated platter and top with fried onion rings and toasted slivered almonds. Serves 6.

LAMB AND POTATO CURRY

The added bonus of this Indian curry dish is that it makes a little lamb go a long way!

2 medium onions
4 slices fresh ginger
3 cloves garlic
1 red chilli, seeded
3 tablespoons ghee or butter
500 g (1 lb) potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks
1 onion, finely sliced
500 g (1 lb) boneless lamb (leg or shoulder), trimmed of excess fat and cubed
1½ teaspoons salt
1 bay leaf
½ cup plain yogurt blended with ½ cup water
1 cup hot water
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1 teaspoon Garam Masala
fresh coriander leaves to garnish

Chop the 2 onions, ginger, garlic and chilli finely together (this may be done in a food processor). Heat ghee or butter in a large, heavy frying pan and sauté potatoes until golden on all sides. Remove with a slotted spoon. Add sliced onion to pan and fry until golden. Stir in meat, salt, bay leaf and chilli mixture and stir until golden, adding a little yogurt mixture from time to time. When meat is browned add any remaining yogurt mixture and hot water and cook gently for 30 minutes or until meat is almost tender. Add potatoes to pan and cook for another 10 minutes, stirring frequently, until potatoes are almost tender. Stir in tomato paste and continue cooking until potatoes are tender. Turn into a heated serving bowl, sprinkle with garam masala and garnish with coriander leaves. Serve with plain boiled rice, chutney, and fresh salad or a selection of sambals. Serves 4.

NOTE: It is best to make your own garam masala although it is available from most health food shops and Asian food stores, and many supermarkets.

LAMB SHANKS IN WHITE WINE

4 small lamb shanks, cracked
1 clove garlic, thinly sliced
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon oil
1 onion, finely chopped
1 cup dry white wine
500 g (1 lb) small new potatoes
8 small or medium carrots, halved

Make small incisions in meat of lamb shanks using a sharp knife, and insert garlic slices. Season shanks with salt and pepper and brown in hot oil. Transfer to an ovenproof casserole and add onion and wine. Cover and bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for 1 hour. Add potatoes and carrots, cover again and bake for a further 1–1½ hours or until meat and vegetables are tender. Serves 4.

LAMB CHOPS PROVENÇAL

The Provençal shepherds’way of cooking lamb chops: the chops are barbecued or grilled, then served with a simple rustic sauce containing garlic, parsley and white wine, on croûtes of fried bread to catch the delicious juices.

4 thick lamb loin or chump chops
4 thick slices bread
olive oil
1 medium onion, finely chopped
1 clove garlic, crushed
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
3 tablespoons hot water
1 cup dry white wine
salt and freshly ground black pepper
extra chopped parley to garnish

Grill chops over a charcoal fire or under a preheated hot grill for about 4 minutes on each side. This will give meat that is well browned but pink in the centre. Grill for a few minutes longer if you want chops well done. Meanwhile, lightly fry bread in a little olive oil in a frying pan, drain on crumpled paper towels and keep warm. Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in pan, add onion, garlic and parsley and fry until onion is golden-brown. Add water, wine, salt and pepper and simmer for 5 minutes. Arrange fried bread croûtes on a heated serving platter or individual plates, place a lamb chop on each croûte and spoon sauce over all. Sprinkle with a little chopped parsley and serve immediately. Serves 4.

SAUTÉED STRIPS OF LAMB

Serve with rice pilaf and green salad.

750 g (1½ lb) lamb leg steaks, cut 2 cm (¾ in) thick
4 tablespoons olive oil
3 tablespoons wine vinegar
½ teaspoon salt
freshly ground black pepper
1 small onion, grated
1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley
½ teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary, or pinch dried
30 g (1 oz) butter

Trim skin, fat and gristle from steaks and cut meat off bones into strips about 6 cm (2½ in) long. Pound strips with the edge of a saucer to break down fibres. Mix 2 tablespoons olive oil with vinegar, salt, pepper, onion, parsley and rosemary in a bowl. Add lamb and turn to coat strips with marinade and dry well on paper towels. Sauté in butter and remaining oil over high heat for about 2 minutes each side. Serves 4–5.

LAMB BROCHETTES

The lamb is cut into cubes and marinated overnight, so it is ready for threading on skewers and grilling. A boned shoulder is the most economical cut for this dish, trimmed of fat and any gristle.

1 kg (2 lb) boneless lamb, cut into bite-size cubes
6 tablespoons oil
1 clove garlic, crushed
2 tablespoons lemon juice
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano, or ½ teaspoon dried
1 bay leaf, crumbled

Place lamb cubes in a bowl. Combine remaining ingredients and pour over lamb. Stir, cover and refrigerate overnight until needed. At serving time, thread lamb onto 6 metal skewers and cook under a preheated high grill for 10–12 minutes or until cooked through, turning skewers occasionally so meat cooks evenly. Serve on a bed of rice pilaf. Serves 6.

SPICED LAMB CHOPS WITH PRUNES

There’s a Moroccan influence in this dish, with the combination of meat and fruit. To offset its richness, serve with plain boiled rice and green salad.

60 g (2 oz) butter
6 thick lamb chops, cut from leg or shoulder
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 large onion, finely sliced
12 large, soft prunes
¾ cup red wine
¾ cup water
4 whole cloves
1 × 2.5 cm (1 in) cinnamon stick
4 strips lemon rind
1½ tablespoons sugar

Heat butter in a large, heavy frying pan (an electric frypan is ideal) and brown chops on both sides over medium heat. Season generously with salt and pepper and cover with onion slices. Add remaining ingredients to pan, bring to boil, then reduce heat and cover tightly. Simmer for 45 minutes or until chops are very tender. Taste for seasoning, and add more salt, pepper or sugar if required (sauce should be well flavoured). Remove cloves, cinnamon stick and lemon rind before serving. Serves 6.

LAMB IN CHILINDRON SAUCE

750 g (1½ lb) boned shoulder or leg of lamb, trimmed of excess fat and cubed
1 teaspoon salt
freshly ground black pepper
6 tablespoons olive oil
3 cloves garlic
1 onion, chopped
4 red peppers, cored, seeded and sliced
4 large tomatoes, peeled and chopped
2 teaspoons paprika
1 teaspoon saffron, crumbled
1 chilli, seeded and sliced
10 black or green olives, halved and stoned

Sprinkle meat with salt and pepper. Heat oil in a flameproof casserole with garlic cloves. Add meat and fry until evenly browned. Remove meat. Discard garlic cloves if a milder flavour is preferred. Add onion and red peppers and sauté until they start to soften. Stir in tomatoes, paprika, saffron and chilli. Return meat to pan, cover and cook very gently for about 1 hour or until meat is tender, adding olives about 10 minutes before serving. If meat becomes dry during cooking add a little water to moisten, but dish should contain very little liquid. Transfer to a heated serving dish and serve immediately. Serves 4–6.

RED-COOKED LAMB

‘Red-cooked’ is a traditional Chinese method of slow cooking. Soy sauce is the predominant flavouring ingredient, followed by sherry, ginger, garlic and onion. Pork, beef and poultry can all be used in this recipe.

1 kg (2 lb) shoulder of lamb, boned and cubed
salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons oil
1 onion, chopped
1 clove garlic, crushed
3 tablespoons soy sauce
4 tablespoons sherry
2 teaspoons sugar
½ cup Brown Stock
2 slices fresh ginger
2 bay leaves
2 teaspoons cornflour mixed to a thin paste with 1 tablespoon cold water
1 small red pepper, cored, seeded and cut into strips

Season meat well with salt and pepper. Heat oil in a wok or frying pan and brown meat on all sides. Remove to a flameproof casserole, then fry onion and garlic for 3 minutes. Drain and transfer to casserole. Mix together soy sauce, sherry, sugar and stock. Pour over meat, mix well and add ginger and bay leaves. Simmer very gently for about 1½ hours or until meat is tender. Just before serving stir in blended cornflour and continue simmering until thickened. Remove bay leaves. Serve garnished with red pepper and with a dish of boiled rice. Serves 4–6.

LAMB SATAY

1 tablespoon tamarind pulp soaked in ¼ cup water for 10 minutes
500 g (1 lb) boneless lamb (from leg), cut into 2 cm (¾ in) cubes
1 onion, grated
2 cloves garlic, crushed
½ teaspoon dried shrimp paste (trasi)
1 tablespoon dark soy sauce
2 tablespoons desiccated or grated fresh coconut

Strain tamarind over a bowl, squeezing out and reserving as much water as possible. Discard the tamarind. Place lamb cubes in a bowl and pour over remaining ingredients, including tamarind water. If using desiccated coconut, moisten with 1 tablespoon hot water. Mix marinade well into meat, then cover and leave at room temperature for 2 hours, or overnight in the refrigerator. Drain lamb cubes. Thread onto bamboo skewers (previously soaked in water for 2 hours to prevent burning). Grill under a preheated grill for about 10 minutes, turning frequently and taking care that coconut does not burn. Serve with steamed rice and Malaysian Satay Sauce. Serves 4–6.

LAMINGTON

A popular Australian cake made from genoise or butter cake cut into squares, dipped in chocolate icing and coated with desiccated coconut.

LAMINGTONS

Make the genoise cake the day before required to make it easier to cut into neat squares. If you have frozen the cake, allow it to thaw for a full 24 hours before using for lamingtons.

1 quantity Genoise Cake
desiccated coconut
3 cups icing sugar
cup cocoa powder
½ cup boiling water
few drops vanilla essence

Bake genoise in a greased and base-lined shallow lamington tin, 28 × 19 cm (11 × 7½ in). Cut cake into 3 strips lengthways, then cut each strip into 8 even pieces. Scatter a thick bed of coconut on a large sheet of greaseproof paper. Sift icing sugar and cocoa into a heatproof bowl, add water and vanilla and stir over hot water until smooth and shiny. The icing should be thin – add a little more boiling water if necessary, and keep the bowl over hot water while working. Spear each piece of cake on a fork and dip into icing. Hold over the bowl a moment to allow icing to set slightly, then roll in coconut, using the paper to help. Place on a wire rack to dry. Makes 24.

VARIATION

JAM LAMINGTONS: Each piece of cake may be cut in half and sandwiched together with a little jam before dipping into icing and rolling in coconut. Be careful to use only a small amount of jam so that it does not run out while the cake is being coated.

LANCASHIRE HOTPOT

A world-famous English hotpot with a wonderful flavour. Very warm and comforting on cold winter nights, this hotpot is topped with a delicious crust of crisp, brown potatoes. It originally contained oysters, from the days when oysters were plentiful and very cheap.

LANCASHIRE HOTPOT

750 g (1½ lb) best end of neck lamb stewing chops
1 tablespoon flour
salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 medium onions, sliced
2 lamb’s kidneys, skinned, cored and sliced
6 mushrooms, sliced
6 medium potatoes, peeled and sliced
18 oysters (optional)
1½ cups beef stock

Trim off any excess fat from chops and coat with flour seasoned with salt and pepper. Place layers of meat, onions, kidneys, mushrooms and potatoes in a large casserole, seasoning each layer lightly with salt and pepper and finishing with a layer of potatoes. If using oysters, arrange them in a layer on top of mushrooms. Pour over stock. Cover and cook in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for 2 hours. Remove lid of casserole and cook for a further 30 minutes to brown potatoes. Serves 6.

LANGUES DES CHATS (CATS’ TONGUES)

A flat, crisp biscuit, shaped like a finger or cat’s tongue, served with liqueurs, sparkling wines, ice and ice creams, and also used as an ingredient in some puddings. The biscuits keep well in an airtight container.

LANGUES DES CHATS

60 g (2 oz) butter
¼ cup caster sugar
2 egg whites
½ cup flour
¼ teaspoon vanilla essence

Cream butter with sugar until very light and fluffy. Beat egg whites to a snow and add to butter mixture alternately with sifted flour, beating vigorously. Add vanilla. Spoon into a piping bag fitted with a 1 cm (½ in) plain tube. Pipe onto a greased and floured baking tray in the shape of éclairs, about 7.5 cm (3 in) in length. Bang tray sharply on the work surface once or twice to flatten biscuits slightly. Bake in a preheated moderately hot oven (190°C/ 375°F) for 10–12 minutes or until biscuits are pale golden with edges tinged brown. Leave to cool on baking tray. Makes about 24.

LASAGNE

One of the most popular pasta dishes, the usual combination of meat and cream sauce topped with cheese is delicious. Lasagne noodles can be shaped like postcards or long and flat with wavy edges. The precooked noodles, now readily available, are excellent and simplify preparation. Lasagne is a good dish to choose when entertaining a crowd. Make the meat sauce ahead and freeze, assemble the dish early on the day and heat when required, or, as lasagne freezes well, the whole dish may be made ahead and stored, frozen, until required. Serve with a bowl of crisp green salad and plenty of crusty bread, and finish with fresh fruit.

See for Lasagne recipe.

LASSI

A most refreshing drink made with plain yogurt; it may be sweet, salty or sour. Found all over the Middle East and parts of India, it is perfect to drink on a hot summer’s day or with spicy foods.

LASSI

½ cup plain yogurt
2½ cups iced water
salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
ice cubes

Pour yogurt into a jug and beat with a whisk until very smooth and free of lumps. Gradually add iced water, whisking well. Season with salt and pepper and serve, poured over ice cubes. Makes 3 cups.

VARIATION

SWEET LASSI: Beat 2 tablespoons plain yogurt with 2 teaspoons sugar, gradually add about 1 cup iced soda water and serve poured over ice cubes in a tall glass. Serves 1.

LEEK

A member of the onion family, grown for its fleshy stem which is banked with soil while growing so that it remains white. Its flavour is sweeter and more delicate than that of onions. Leeks are much used in soups and are an essential ingredient in Vichyssoise, perhaps the greatest cold soup of all. They are also one of the nicest vegetables to serve cold as a first course or part of an hors d’oeuvre platter (see Zucchini à la Grecque); they make an interesting and delicious hot vegetable too.

When buying leeks, look for medium to small ones, with firm, unblemished stems and unwilted green tops. Trim tops a little but leave roots on; stand in a little cold water in a jug, cover with a plastic bag and store in the refrigerator. Use within a week.

Basic preparation: Because of the way they are grown, leeks are usually gritty and need careful cleaning. Cut off all but 4–5 cm (1–1½ in) of the green tops, cutting to a point so that you retain more of the tender inside layers than the outside (use tops to flavour soup or stock).Trim off roots.

If using as a whole vegetable, slit down the middle to within about 2.5 cm (1 in) of the root end and wash very thoroughly under running water, spreading layers gently to be sure all of the grit is washed out.

If leeks are to be chopped or sliced, it is easiest to cut them up first, then place in a colander and wash grit off under cold running water.

BRAISED LEEKS

6 leeks, trimmed and washed
45 g (1½ oz) butter
½ teaspoon salt
freshly ground black pepper

Put leeks into a saucepan with butter, salt, pepper and water barely to cover. Bring to the boil, half-cover and simmer for 10 minutes. Remove lid and continue cooking for about 10 more minutes or until leeks are tender and liquid reduced to about ½ cup. Transfer leeks to a shallow baking dish, pour cooking juices over them and cover loosely with foil. Place in a preheated very hot oven (230°C/450°F) and cook for about 8 minutes or until leeks are golden. Serves 6.

VARIATION

LEEKS PARMIGIANA: Prepare Braised Leeks, transfer to a shallow flameproof dish and pour cooking juices over them. Sprinkle with ½ cup grated Parmesan cheese and place under a preheated grill for 1–2 minutes to brown the surface. Serve immediately.

PURÉE OF LEEKS

4 leeks, finely sliced
30 g (1 oz) butter
salt and freshly ground black pepper
sugar
nutmeg
1–2 tablespoons cream

Put leeks into a heavy saucepan with only the water that clings to them after washing. Add butter and a pinch each of salt and sugar. Cover tightly and place on low heat until butter has melted and leeks have exuded some juice. Increase heat to moderate and continue to cook until leeks are tender, then remove lid and cook quickly until liquid evaporates, stirring and watching carefully that leeks do not scorch on bottom. Purée in a food processor or food mill or rub through a sieve. Season with pepper and nutmeg and stir in sufficient cream to give a smooth consistency. Reheat gently in the saucepan or in a covered dish in the oven. Serves 4.

LEEK FILO PIE

Good served hot, warm or cold – nice for a picnic.

6 medium leeks, cut into 1 cm (½ in) thick slices
1 egg
125 g (4 oz) feta cheese
salt and freshly ground black pepper
8 sheets filo pastry
3 tablespoons olive oil or melted butter

Simmer leeks in a little lightly salted water for 8 minutes; drain and refresh under cold running water. Drain again and leave until cold. Purée egg and feta cheese in a blender or food processor, or mash together with a fork. Combine with leeks and season with salt and pepper (remembering that feta tends to be rather salty).

Place filo between 2 dry tea-towels with a damp tea-towel on top. Brush one sheet of filo lightly with oil or butter, fold in half and brush again. Use to line an oiled or buttered shallow 20 cm (8 in) square cake tin. Place 2 more sheets of filo, each lightly brushed with oil or butter, on top, overlapping them and allowing ends to hang over sides of tin. Add leek filling and spread evenly in tin. Top with remaining filo folded in half and lightly brushed with oil or butter as before. Fold overhanging ends over top and tuck down inside tin to enclose filling completely. Brush top with oil or butter. Bake in a preheated moderately hot oven (190°C/375°F) for 45 minutes or until top is golden. Cut into squares to serve. Serves 4–6.

LEEK AND POTATO SCALLOP

30 g (1 oz) butter
4 old potatoes, peeled and finely sliced
2 leeks, finely sliced
60 g (2 oz) Gruyère or Cheddar cheese, grated
salt and freshly ground black pepper
nutmeg
¾ cup milk
¾ cup cream

Butter a shallow ovenproof dish and layer potatoes and leeks in it, dotting each layer with butter, sprinkling with half the cheese and seasoning lightly with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Scald milk and cream and pour over. Sprinkle remaining cheese on top. Bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for 1¼ hours or until potato is tender. Serves 4–6.

LEGUMES

See Pulses: Dried Beans, Peas and Lentils.

LEMON

It is hard to imagine cooking without lemons; indeed, lemons have been called ‘the fruit with a thousand uses’. The juice and rind, or zest, containing essential citrus oils, are used to season and flavour a great number of dishes, and both are as indispensable as salt and pepper.

Lemon juice: A medium-size lemon yields approximately 2 tablespoons juice. To extract the maximum amount, warm a whole lemon in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for 2 minutes, or roll it over a hard surface to soften slightly before halving and squeezing.

Ways to use lemon juice:

• Use lemon juice instead of vinegar in salad dressings.

• When a recipe calls for sour milk, buttermilk or sour cream and you have none to hand, the addition of 1 teaspoon lemon juice to 1 cup milk or ½ cup cream will provide a good substitute.

• To keep peeled fresh apples, pears or peaches from browning when not using immediately, immerse in 1 cup water plus 2 teaspoons lemon juice.

• Brush cut avocados or bananas with lemon juice to prevent browning.

• Melt 2 tablespoons butter, mix in the juice of 1 lemon, some chopped parsley or snipped chives and use as a sauce over boiled new potatoes, green beans, asparagus, patty pan squash, zucchini, grilled fish or chicken.

• Rub lemon juice over a joint of lamb before roasting.

Lemon rind or zest: The zest can be grated off the surface of the lemon with a fine grater, rubbed off with sugar lumps or removed by paring very thinly with a vegetable peeler. Do not include any white pith because it leaves a bitter taste.

Ways to use lemon rind or zest:

• Add 2 tablespoons grated lemon zest to 125 g (4 oz) cream cheese and beat until creamy.

• Sweeten with 1 tablespoon caster sugar and use to fill stoned dates or prunes, or serve with fresh berry fruits.

• Mix grated rind into mixture for meatballs, meat loaves or hamburgers.

• Mix grated rind into rice or bread stuffings for fish or poultry.

• Rub sugar lumps over a lemon and use to flavour custards.

• Stir a little grated rind into cake fillings or frostings.

• Add a small strip of lemon rind to the poaching syrup for fruit.

See also Lemons; Ceviche.

Cocktails and long drinks with lime:

A jigger is the traditional bar measure of 45 ml (1½ fl oz). A jigger measure is available at most bottle shops. A simple sugar syrup is a useful ingredient when mixing drinks. Boil 1 cup sugar with ½ cup water for about 5 minutes. Cool, keep in a bottle in the refrigerator, and use as needed.

If you do not possess a cocktail shaker, stir the ingredients in a jug or whirl for a few seconds in a blender. Strain the drinks into chilled glasses.

When making long drinks the base is mixed and ice added followed by the ‘mixer’, usually a carbonated water – soda, Vichy, ginger ale – which shoud be well chilled.

Daiquiri: Shake well with ¾ cup cracked ice: ½ jigger sugar syrup; 1½ jiggers lime juice; 6 jiggers rum. Strain into chilled glasses. Makes 4.

Cubana: Shake well with ¾ cup cracked ice: 1 tablespoon sugar syrup; 1 jigger lime juice; 1½ jiggers Benedictine; 5½ jiggers rum. Strain into chilled glasses. Makes 4.

Gimlet: Shake well with ¾ cup cracked ice: 1 tablespoon sugar syrup; 1½ jiggers lime juice; 5 jiggers gin. Strain into tall chilled glasses. Makes 4.

Substituting orange juice for half the lime juice changes a gimlet into an orange blossom. Vodka is becoming increasingly popular and may replace gin in both cocktails.

Margherita: Shake well with ¾ cup cracked ice: 5 jiggers tequila; 1½ jiggers lime juice; ¼ jigger triple sec (white Curaçao). Strain into glasses, the rims of which have been rubbed with citrus rind then spun in salt. Serves 4.

Cuba Libra: Combine in a tall glass: juice 1 lime; ½ squeezed lime; 1 jigger rum. Add 2 large ice cubes, fill glass with cola, stir and serve. Makes 1.

Gin and Tonic: Place 2 ice cubes in a tall glass, add 1 large jigger gin (or vodka) and fill glass with quinine water (tonic). Add lime or lemon juice to taste. Makes 1.

TAHITIAN LIMED FISH

There are many ways of making this famous raw fish salad. Lemon may replace the lime when limes are unavailable. Serve as a first course.

500 g (1 lb) firm-fleshed fish fillets
2 limes
1 tablespoon olive oil
salt and freshly ground black pepper
6 spring onions, sliced
2 teaspoons green peppercorns, lightly crushed
1 cos or mignonette lettuce
2 canned pimientos, diced
2 tomatoes, peeled and quartered, to garnish

With a sharp knife cut fish into very thin slices which are almost transparent. Pare rind thinly from limes and reserve. Squeeze juice from limes. Spread out fish on a chilled plate and drizzle over lime juice. Combine oil, salt, pepper, spring onions and peppercorns. Sprinkle over fish and marinate for 1 hour. Cut reserved lime rind into fine julienne (matchstick) strips, about the thickness of pine needles. Drop into boiling water and blanch for 1 minute. Drain. Make a bed of lettuce leaves on 4 plates and arrange slices of marinated fish on top with any of the marinade left over. Scatter blanched lime rind and pimientos over fish and garnish with tomato quarters. Serves 4.

VARIATION

ACAPULCO LIMED FISH: Prepare Tahitian Limed Fish. Peel, stone and mash 1 avocado. Season with salt, freshly ground black pepper, a dash of Tabasco sauce and a squeeze of lime juice. Spoon avocado mixture over fish salad.

NUTBREAD WITH LIME BUTTER

An unusual tea-time combination.

2½ cups flour
1 tablespoon baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
1 cup chopped walnuts
60 g (2 oz) butter
¾ cup firmly packed brown sugar
1 egg
¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons milk

Lime butter

60 g (2 oz) butter
grated rind 1 lime
1 tablespoon lime juice
salt

Sift flour with baking powder and salt, then add walnuts. Cream butter with sugar until light and fluffy, then beat in egg and milk. Fold in flour mixture 1 cup at a time. Allow to stand, covered with plastic wrap, for 40 minutes. Spoon into a buttered 21 × 11 cm (8½ × 4½ in) loaf tin that has been lined on the bottom and long sides with greased greaseproof paper. Bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°/350°F) for 1 hour 10 minutes or until a skewer inserted in centre comes out clean. Cool in tin for 15 minutes before turning out onto a wire rack.

To make lime butter, cream butter with lime rind and juice. Add salt to taste and serve with sliced nutbread.

LIME MERINGUE PIE

This recipe is equally delicious when made with lemons; see Variation (below).

3 tablespoons cornflour
1¼ cups plus 6 tablespoons sugar
½ cup lime juice
1 tablespoon grated lime rind
3 eggs, separated
1½ cups boiling water
1 × 23 cm (9 in) Shortcrust Pastry Tart Shell, baked

Combine cornflour, 1¼ cups sugar, and lime juice and rind in a saucepan. Beat egg yolks until thick and fluffy and add to lime juice mixture. Gradually add boiling water. Heat to simmering over very gentle heat, stirring constantly until thickened. Simmer for 2–3 minutes. Pour into pastry shell and leave to cool.

Beat egg whites until stiff but not dry and gradually beat in remaining sugar. Spread meringue over top of pie, carefully sealing in all the filling and being sure to touch edge of pastry shell all around. Bake in a preheated hot oven (200°C/400°F) for about 5 minutes or until very pale brown. Cool and serve with whipped cream. Serves 8.

VARIATION

LEMON MERINGUE PIE: Use lemon peel and juice in place of lime peel and juice. (For an alternative recipe.)

LIME, KAFFIR

The aromatic leaves of the kaffir lime tree are a dark shiny green and shaped with two sections. They are used in many Southeast Asian dishes, particularly Thai, including curries, salads and soups. The leaves may be used whole or finely shredded or pounded to release the aromatic citrus flavour. Use with a light hand: a little makes a big difference; too much can give a bitter flavour.

The fruit of this tree, with its coarse, pitted skin, contains very little juice but the rind is grated and added to dishes. Fresh kaffir lime leaves are available at most supermarkets and greengrocers.

GAENG PLA CHOO CHEE (FISH IN RED CURRY SAUCE WITH LIME LEAVES)

This is a fabulous dish, particularly for those who like it hot. The Thai combination of lime leaves, coconut milk and red curry paste is great with fish.

1 large whole white fish (bream, snapper or perch)
¾ cup vegetable oil
2 teaspoons Red Curry Paste
1 fresh red chilli, seeded and finely sliced
6 fresh kaffir lime leaves
1 cup coconut milk
1 tablespoon fish sauce (nam pla)
1 tablespoon sugar
lime wedges, fresh coriander leaves, 1 small red pepper cut into very fine strips, to garnish

Have the fish scaled and gutted. Wash and pat dry with paper towels. Trim the fish by cutting off the sharp spikes and make 2–3 diagonal cuts along each side of the fish to help it cook evenly. Heat the oil in a wok or large frying pan over a high heat, reserving 1 tablespoon for later; lower the fish carefully and cook until golden on one side. Lower the heat and gently turn the fish over. Turn up the heat and cook for a further 5 minutes or until golden. Lift the fish gently onto a serving plate.

Meanwhile, gently stir-fry in another pan the red curry paste, chilli and lime leaves in the remaining tablespoon oil. Add the coconut milk, fish sauce and sugar, and simmer for about 5 minutes. Pour the sauce over the fish and garnish with the lime wedges, coriander, shredded lime leaves and pepper strips. Serve with steamed rice. Serves 4.

THAI CHICKEN AND COCONUT SOUP

4 fresh kaffir lime leaves
5 cm (2 in) piece tender lemongrass
2 cm (¾ in) fresh ginger
3 cups chicken stock
4–6 slices fresh or dried galangal
3 tablespoons fish sauce
½ cup fresh lime or lemon juice
2 fresh red chillies, seeded and finely sliced
1 whole chicken breast fillet, cut into strips
1½ cups coconut milk
½ cup chopped fresh coriander
salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Finely shred 2 of the kaffir leaves, leaving the others whole. Finely chop the lemongrass; peel and finely slice the ginger. In a large saucepan combine the stock, galangal, fish sauce, lime juice, whole lime leaves, chillies, lemongrass and ginger. Bring the mixture slowly to a simmer. Stir in the chicken and coconut milk and simmer the soup for 3–5 minutes, or until the chicken is tender. Stir in the coriander and add shredded lime leaves and salt and pepper to taste. Serves 4–6.

LINZER TORTE (LINZ JAM TART)

Linzer torte, named after the town of Linz on the River Danube, is made in many parts of Austria. It is distinguished by its unique pastry made with ground nuts, either almonds or hazelnuts, and spices. This pastry is arranged in lattice strips over a jam filling, either plum or raspberry. Serve Linzer torte plain or dusted with icing sugar.

LINZER TORTE

1 cup flour
¼ cup caster sugar
2 teaspoons cocoa powder
½ teaspoon cinnamon
pinch ground cloves
½ teaspoon baking powder
pinch salt
125 g (4 oz) ground almonds
125 g (4 oz) butter
milk or Kirsch
1½ cups raspberry or plum jam
beaten egg to glaze
sifted icing sugar (optional)

Sift flour, sugar, cocoa, cinnamon, cloves, baking powder and salt into a mixing bowl. Add ground almonds. Rub in butter, which has been cut into small pieces, and mix lightly with your fingertips to a dry dough, adding milk or Kirsch if necessary. Wrap dough in foil and chill for at least 30 minutes. Divide dough; roll out two-thirds and press onto bottom of a greased 18 cm (7 in) springform tin. Spread jam on top. Roll out remaining dough, cut into 1 cm (½ in) wide strips and arrange in lattice fashion on top, using the last one as an edging around the tart. Press down lightly and chill for 30 minutes. Remove tart from refrigerator, brush with beaten egg and bake in a preheated moderately hot oven (190°C/375°F) for 35–40 minutes. Allow to cool in tin. Dust with icing sugar if desired. Serve with whipped cream. Serves 8–10.

LIVER

Liver has outstanding nutritional properties, and, when properly prepared, is delicious. Beef, calf, lamb, pork and poultry livers are used in the cookery of many nations. Liver and bacon is a natural combination enjoyed in Britain, USA and Australia. Lamb, beef or calf livers are all used for the dish. Goose liver is made into the famous pâtés and terrines of France and Hungary. Chicken livers are used in some of the risottos of Italy, and in pâté, which is easy to make and a treat, or can be sautéed to make a quick meal.

Beef, calf, lamb and pork livers are all generally available from butchers. Calf or lamb liver is best enjoyed cut in thin slices and quickly pan-fried, and served with a flavoursome accompaniment, such as onions, bacon, etc. Beef liver is less tender than calf or lamb liver and has a more pronounced flavour; it is often braised with onions. Pork liver has a strong flavour and is less tender than the other kinds; it is not good for frying but makes excellent pâté, or it may be braised whole with vegetables. Poultry livers are tender and mild in flavour, and are usually available from specialty poultry shops.

Basic preparation: Pull thin veil of membrane away from liver. Cut away any fat and gristle, and cut out veins, using a small, sharp-pointed knife. Cut into thin slices or leave whole depending on recipe.

To cook: Liver can be pan-fried, grilled or braised.

Pan-fried or sautéed liver: Calf, lamb and good pork liver is cut into thin slices, seasoned with salt and pepper and lightly dusted on each side with flour. Chicken livers are left whole. Heat a small amount of fat in a frying pan (butter, oil or half butter and half oil). Using tongs, put slices in pan. Cook quickly, turning once, for about 4 minutes or until crisp on both sides but pink inside. Cook pork liver a little longer.

Grilled liver: Calf, lamb and poultry livers can be grilled. Have calf or lamb livers cut 1 cm (½ in) thick. Heat grill. Put liver on greased grill rack and brush with melted butter. Grill 8–10 cm (3–4 in) from heat, turning once, until required doneness, 4–8 minutes in all.

Braised liver: All livers can be braised. Have beef, calf, lamb or pork livers cut 1 cm (½ in) thick. Sprinkle with flour seasoned with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Brown liver quickly on both sides in hot fat (half butter and half oil is ideal), then add ½ cup stock and seasoning as desired (fresh herbs, diced bacon, sliced mushrooms, sliced onions) and simmer, covered, until tender.

LIVER AND BACON

375–500 g (12 oz–1 lb) calf or lamb liver, cut into 1 cm (½ in) thick slices
salt and freshly ground black pepper
flour
butter or bacon fat for frying
4–8 rashers bacon, rinds removed
2–3 thin slices onion
hot water or stock (chicken or beef)
lemon juice
chopped parsley

Season liver slices with salt and pepper and dip in flour. Heat butter or bacon fat in a frying pan and fry liver for 2–3 minutes on each side. Put on a heated dish. Fry bacon until crisp and arrange over liver. Put onion into the hot fat and cook until golden-brown. Remove, drain and arrange on the dish. Season with salt and pepper. Add a few tablespoons hot water or stock to the pan to make a little brown gravy. Sprinkle liver with lemon juice, gravy and parsley and serve. Serves 4.

LIVER BONNE FEMME

bacon fat or butter
500–750 g (1–1½ lb) lamb or calf liver
3 rashers lean bacon, rind removed, or cooked ham, cut into strips
2–3 potatoes, peeled and cut into olive shapes, or 6–8 tiny new potatoes
2 mushrooms, quartered
12 small onions
1 tablespoon flour
cup white wine or cider
1 cup chicken or beef stock
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 bouquet garni

Heat fat or butter in a heavy pan or flameproof casserole, put in the piece of liver whole and sauté it quickly on all sides for about 5 minutes. Remove liver from casserole and put in bacon or ham, potatoes, mushrooms and onions. Fry them lightly, then scatter over the flour and mix well. Pour on wine or cider and stock. Bring to the boil, season with salt and pepper and add bouquet garni. Return liver to pan and simmer on top of stove or braise in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for about 40–50 minutes. Carve liver in thin slices and arrange on a heated serving dish with bacon and vegetables. Boil up sauce, discard bouquet garni and spoon sauce carefully over the liver. Serves 6.

SWISS LIVER

750 g (1½ lb) calf liver, cut into thin strips
seasoned flour
60 g (2 oz) butter
¼ cup oil
3 tablespoons chopped onion
3 tablespoons chopped parsley
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 cup sour light cream

Dust liver strips with seasoned flour. Heat butter and oil in a frying pan. When hot and bubbly, add onion, parsley and liver strips. Sauté quickly, turning liver strips to brown on all sides. Do not overcook. Strips should be pink in centre. Season and add sour cream. Heat through, but do not boil. Serve on fried bread. Serves 4.

CALF LIVER TUSCAN-STYLE

6–8 slices calf liver
seasoned flour
2 tablespoons oil
30 g (1 oz) butter
salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 leaves fresh sage, chopped
1 lemon, quartered, to garnish

Dust liver slices with seasoned flour. Heat oil and butter in frying pan. Cook slices for 1½ minutes on each side. Season with salt, pepper and sage and cook for another minute on each side. Serve garnished with quarters of lemon. Serves 4.

VENETIAN LIVER WITH ONIONS

The way liver is prepared in Venice with lots of onions and the surprising touch of lemon rind is one of the nicest. Traditionally served with thick slices of Polenta.

2 tablespoons oil
2 large onions, finely sliced
2 tablespoons water
1 teaspoon grated lemon rind
500 g (1 lb) calf or lamb liver, very finely sliced
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Heat oil in a large frying pan, add onions, toss to coat with oil and add water. Cover and cook over gentle heat for about 20 minutes. Add lemon rind and mix well. Push onions to one side of pan. Add a little more oil, then the liver, and season with salt and pepper to taste. Stir well, cover and cook for 2–3 minutes. If you like a thicker gravy, toss slices of liver in seasoned flour before adding to pan. Serve with mashed potatoes, polenta or fluffy boiled rice. Serves 4.

DEVILLED LIVER ON CROUSTADES

A delicious light lunch or supper dish.

½ cup oil
4 slices bread, cut 2 cm (¾ in) thick
60 g (2 oz) butter
2 onions, sliced
500 g (1 lb) beef, pork, calf or lamb liver, diced
2 tablespoons flour
2 teaspoons dry mustard
1 cup hot water
½ teaspoon salt
freshly ground black pepper
½ cup sour light cream

First make the croustades. Heat oil in a frying pan and fry bread until golden and crisp. Drain on crumpled paper towels and keep hot until required. Pour oil from pan and add half the butter. When melted, add onions and fry until browned. Push onions to side of pan and add remaining butter. Coat liver in flour and brown in the butter, adding more butter if needed. Add mustard, water, salt and pepper. Heat gently until sauce thickens, stirring constantly. Add sour cream and serve on croustades. Serves 4.

SAUTÉED LIVER WITH BASIL

500 g (1 lb) calf or lamb liver, sliced
seasoned flour
1 tablespoon oil
60 g (2 oz) butter
2 tablespoons fresh basil cut into thin strips

Turn liver slices in seasoned flour and pat off excess. Sauté in the oil and half the butter, then remove to a heated dish. Add remaining butter and basil to pan and heat for a few moments. Pour over liver and serve at once, with grilled or sautéed tomatoes. Serves 4.

VARIATION

SAUTÉED LIVER WITH HERBS: Follow recipe for Sautéed Liver with Basil, but substitute 2 teaspoons lemon juice and 2 tablespoons chopped fresh herbs (parsley, sage, oregano, thyme, chives) for basil.

FLAMBÉED LIVER WITH CREAM

500 g (1 lb) calf liver, sliced
seasoned flour
1 tablespoon oil
30 g (1 oz) butter
1 tablespoon lemon juice
¼ cup brandy or whisky
½ cup cream
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Turn liver slices in seasoned flour and pat off excess. Sauté liver slices in oil and butter for 1 minute, turn and sauté other side for 2 minutes. Pour over lemon juice and brandy or whisky, and set alight. Shake pan until flames die down, stir in cream, season to taste and serve immediately. Serves 4.

SMOTHERED LIVER AND ONIONS

5 medium onions, sliced
60 g (2 oz) butter
4 tablespoons oil
500 g (1 lb) calf or lamb liver, finely sliced
2 tablespoons flour
1 teaspoon salt
freshly ground black pepper
¾ cup water

Cook onions in half the butter and oil in a frying pan until golden-brown; remove. Dredge liver slices with flour seasoned with salt and pepper. Fry in remaining butter and oil until browned on both sides. Return onions to pan with water; cover and simmer for 3–4 minutes. Do not overcook or liver will toughen. Serves 4.

CHICKEN LIVER PÂTÉ

One of the simplest but best ways to make a pâté. The chopped hard-boiled egg improves the texture.

250 g (8 oz) chicken livers
1¼ cups chicken stock
½ cup chopped onion
45 g (1½ oz) butter
2 hard-boiled eggs, finely chopped
salt and freshly ground black pepper
30 g (1 oz) butter, melted, to seal

Simmer livers in stock for 8–10 minutes or until done. Drain, reserving stock. Remove veins from livers. Purée livers with a little of the stock in a food processor or blender. Brown onion lightly in butter and blend with liver purée and eggs to make a paste. Season with salt and pepper. If desired, season further with a pinch of curry powder or a dash of brandy. Put in a small dish or 4 individual ramekins. Spoon melted butter over surface to seal pâté and refrigerate for several hours. Serve with buttered toast fingers. Serves 4.

CHICKEN LIVERS MARSALA

60 g (2 oz) plus 1 tablespoon butter
500 g (1 lb) chicken livers, halved
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
6 leaves fresh sage, chopped
2 slices prosciutto or cooked ham, diced
8 bread triangles, sautéed
¼ cup Marsala

Melt 60 g (2 oz) butter in a frying pan and add livers, salt, pepper, sage and prosciutto or ham. Cook for 5 minutes. Remove livers from pan and place on sautéed bread triangles. Add Marsala to pan, stir well and cook for 3 minutes. Add remaining butter, mix well and pour over livers. Serves 4.

CHICKEN LIVER RISOTTO

60 g (2 oz) butter
6 chicken livers, quartered
½ cup chopped onion
½ cup finely chopped mushrooms
1 cup long-grain rice
2½ cups boiling chicken stock
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
salt and freshly ground black pepper
grated Parmesan cheese to serve

Melt butter in a large heavy saucepan and brown chicken livers. Remove livers and keep hot. Add onion to pan and cook until transparent. Add mushrooms and cook for 3 minutes longer. Add rice and cook, stirring constantly, for 2 minutes. Stir in stock. Cover and simmer over low heat for 20 minutes or until stock is absorbed and rice is tender but still firm. If stock is absorbed and rice is not tender, add a little more stock and cook longer. Stir livers and parsley into rice, season with salt and pepper and serve immediately, with grated Parmesan cheese. Serves 4.

RICE WITH CHICKEN LIVERS AND MUSHROOMS

60 g (2 oz) butter
1 onion, chopped
2 cups long-grain rice
¼ cup Marsala
8 cups hot chicken stock

Sauce

60 g (2 oz) butter
1 onion, finely sliced
1 thin slice prosciutto, cut into julienne (matchstick) strips
3 leaves fresh sage, or ½ teaspoon dried
1 bay leaf
6 chicken livers, chopped
6–8 mushrooms, sliced
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon Marsala
1 cup chicken stock

Melt butter in a heavy saucepan, add onion and sauté until brown. Stir in rice and cook, stirring, until each grain is golden in colour. Add Marsala and cook gently until it is absorbed into rice. Add stock, 2 cups at a time, each time covering pan until liquid is simmering. Allow to cook very slowly, without stirring, until rice has absorbed all the liquid. When done, rice should be fairly dry but not too soft.

To make sauce, melt butter in a saucepan and sauté onion, ham, sage and bay leaf until mixture takes on a little colour. Add chicken livers and mushrooms and stir well. Add salt, pepper, Marsala and stock. Simmer for 10 minutes. Stir half the sauce into the risotto. To serve, place risotto in a heated bowl. Serve remaining sauce separately. Serves 6.

LIVER DUMPLINGS IN SOUP

There is something very middle-European and old-fashioned about liver dumplings in soup. It is also delicious.

125 g (4 oz) beef, calf, lamb, pork or chicken liver
½ small onion
1 egg yolk
¼ teaspoon salt
pinch freshly ground black pepper
pinch dried thyme
pinch nutmeg
1½ tablespoons chopped parsley
1½ slices bread, crusts removed
milk or water
about ½ cup flour
8 cups chicken or beef stock

Mince or finely chop liver with the onion. Add egg yolk, salt, pepper, thyme, nutmeg and parsley. Soak the bread in milk or water to moisten and squeeze out excess liquid. Add to liver mixture with enough flour to make a soft dough. Bring soup stock to the boil. Dip a teaspoon in the soup, then fill it with liver dough and drop into soup. Re-dip spoon in soup before shaping each dumpling. Cover pan and simmer for 10–15 minutes, depending on size of dumplings. Serves 6–8.

CHICKEN LIVER TOASTS

These small savouries are equally good served as an antipasto or as light snacks.

3 tablespoons butter
1 shallot, finely chopped
3–4 leaves fresh sage
250 g (8 oz) chicken livers, finely chopped
freshly ground black pepper
8 slices French bread, halved, or 8 slices sandwich loaf, cut into triangles
extra butter for shallow-frying
2 teaspoons lemon juice
1 tablespoon chopped parsley

Melt 3 tablespoons butter in a small saucepan and sauté shallot and sage leaves for about 5 minutes. Discard sage leaves. Add livers and pepper and cook gently, stirring, for about 6 minutes or until livers are lightly coloured but still slightly pink. Fry bread pieces in butter until crisp and golden on both sides; drain on paper towels. Stir lemon juice into liver mixture, check seasoning, spread over fried bread and sprinkle with parsley. Serve immediately. Serves 8.

LOBSTER

The Australian rock lobster (spiny lobster or crayfish), with its long antennae and rough, spiny carapace (shell), is one of the delights of the crustacean world. The meat, most of which is found in the tail, is sweet, firm-textured and very white when it is cooked. It can be used in any recipe needing lobster meat.

Allow ½ large or 1 small lobster per serving. They may be bought live or ready cooked. When buying cooked lobster, make certain the tail is tightly curled into the body and snaps back when straightened, and that the lobster is heavy for its size. The smell should be sweet and fresh. A 1–1.5 kg (2–3 lb) lobster is ideal; larger ones tend to be rather tough so are best avoided.

The European lobster or French homard from northern seas differs from the Australian rock lobster in that it has large pincer claws, containing much of the sweet juicy meat, and a smooth, shiny carapace.

To boil lobster: If a recipe calls for green (uncooked) lobster, it should be killed immediately before cooking. This can be done by leaving it head first in a bucket of cold fresh water for a least 1 hour, or in the following manner.

Take a heavy, sharp, short-bladed knife. Place lobster on a board, underside up. Hold the lobster with a towel and make a firm incision with the point of the knife where the tail joins the body. This will sever the spinal cord and kill the lobster immediately. Any movement of legs or tail after the lobster is killed is due to reflex muscle spasms.

Alternatively put the live lobster into the freezer and leave for 30 minutes for each 500 g (1 lb) weight, to stun it.

To boil, place lobster in a large saucepan of fresh cold water and bring slowly to simmering point. Simmer for 10 minutes for the first 500 g (1 lb) weight and 7 minutes for each 500 g (1 lb) over. Remove from water and allow to cool.

You may use frozen green lobster tails instead, if you prefer.

To clean lobster: Use a heavy sharp knife. Cut the lobster in half lengthways. Insert the point of the knife at the tail, cut towards the head and slit the underside. Remove the intestinal vein that runs the length of the lobster, and all the soft matter in the body and at the top of the head. Retain any orange or pink roe and the thick, dark-brown liquid, which is the mustard or tomalley. The roe can be gently poached; the mustard can be used in a sauce or butter for the lobster, or can be placed in a small bowl and cooked in a water bath, to be served separately as an accompaniment or used as a spread for canapés.

To remove meat from shell: Prise the meat from the tail and body with a sharp knife and cut into pieces. The meat may be extracted from the legs by breaking them at the joints and carefully pulling the meat out. Rinse carapace and dry well. It can then be used as a container in which to serve the meat.

GRILLED LOBSTER WITH LEMON BUTTER

1 green (uncooked) lobster or lobster tail
½ cup butter, melted
juice ½ lemon

Halve lobster or lobster tail and clean if necessary. Mix butter and lemon juice and brush over lobster meat. Place, cut sides down, on oiled grill rack and cook under preheated hot grill for 2 minutes. Turn cut sides up. Reduce heat to moderate and cook for a further 8–12 minutes (depending on size), brushing frequently with lemon butter, until flesh is white and firm. Loosen flesh from carapace, and serve in the shell with extra melted butter and lemon wedges. Serves 2.

LOBSTER MORNAY

1 cooked lobster, halved and flesh cut into bite-size pieces
1 cup Mornay Sauce
½ cup grated cheese
fried breadcrumbs (optional)

Fold lobster meat through hot sauce and reheat gently. Pile into shells. Top with grated cheese and cook under a preheated medium grill for 1–2 minutes to melt cheese. If liked, sprinkle with fried breadcrumbs. Serves 2.

LOBSTER MAYONNAISE

½ cup Mayonnaise
2 teaspoons chopped mixed fresh herbs (parsley, thyme, chives)
½ teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 cooked lobster, halved and flesh cubed
lettuce leaves
hard-boiled egg slices, tomato wedges, cucumber slices and sprig fresh dill or lemon balm to garnish

Flavour mayonnaise with chopped herbs and mustard. Spoon over lobster meat in shells. Serve chilled on crisp lettuce leaves, garnished with egg slices, tomato wedges, paper-thin cucumber slices and a sprig of fresh dill or lemon balm. Serves 2.

LOBSTER COCKTAIL SALAD

1 cup diced celery
2 tablespoons Mayonnaise
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon, or 1 teaspoon dried
2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley
2 tablespoons gin
1 tablespoon brandy
salt and freshly ground black pepper
375 g (12 oz) cooked lobster meat, cut into large dice
lettuce leaves
celery strips to garnish

Blanch diced celery in boiling water for 1 minute; drain and refresh. Combine celery, mayonnaise, tomato paste, herbs, gin, brandy, salt and pepper. Fold in lobster meat and chill, covered, for at least 2 hours or overnight. Line 4–6 salad plates with lettuce, spoon lobster mixture into a mound on top and garnish with celery strips. Serves 4–6.

LOBSTER TAILS LUCULLUS

2 small live lobsters
½ cup dry white wine

Sauce

mirepoix of ½ small carrot, ½ small onion, ½ small stick celery, all finely chopped
250 g (8 oz) butter
cup white wine
bouquet of 1 sprig thyme, 1 sprig marjoram and 1 small piece bay leaf
cup cream
salt
freshly ground white pepper

Prepare lobsters by plunging head first into fresh water or by severing spinal cords as described, then separate tails from bodies and cut tails lengthways in half. Set tails aside while making the sauce.

Clean lobster bodies (retaining mustard and any roe for another use). Smash bodies and sauté with the mirepoix in 60 g (2 oz) butter. Add wine, boil over high heat until reduced by half, add herb bouquet and cream and boil until liquid is syrupy. Strain and return liquid to rinsed-out saucepan. Cut remaining butter into about 8 pieces. Bring liquid to simmering point, remove from heat and beat in 2 pieces of butter with a wire whisk. Return to low heat and beat in remaining butter, piece by piece; sauce will thicken to consistency of pouring cream. Season and turn off heat.

Arrange halved tails, meat side upwards, in one layer in a baking dish, pour ½ cup wine around them and cover the dish. Place in a hot oven (200°C/ 400°F) and steam for 8–10 minutes or until meat turns white. Holding each half-tail in a cloth, prise meat from shells.

Reheat sauce on low heat, whisking constantly; do not allow it to boil. Spoon some sauce onto 4 heated plates, place tail meat on top and spoon a little more sauce over. Serve with steamed rice and snow peas. Serves 4.

LOBSTER WITH BASIL SAUCE AND MANGOES

Court Bouillon
2 green lobster tails
2 large, ripe mangos

Sauce

2 tablespoons good-quality wine vinegar
6 tablespoons olive oil
1 small clove garlic, peeled
30 fresh basil leaves
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Bring the court bouillon to the boil in a large saucepan. Add lobster tails and simmer for 6–8 minutes or until shells turn red. Remove lobster tails from pan and when cool enough to handle, remove shells and cut flesh into slices, 1 cm (½ in) thick. Meanwhile, make the sauce. Place vinegar, oil, garlic and basil leaves in a blender or food processor and process until smooth. Season to taste.

With a sharp knife, make a slit lengthways around the mangoes and peel off the skin. Cut the flesh into very thin slices.

Assemble the ingredients on 4 large plates. First make a circle of mango slices on each plate, leaving a space in the centre. Heap lobster in the space and spoon the sauce in a ribbon around the outside of the mango slices. Serves 4.

LOGANBERRY

A cross between the blackberry and the raspberry, and its flavour is a blend of these fruits. Ripe loganberries are dark, purplish-red. Fresh loganberries are only occasionally seen in the shops, but they are available commercially frozen and canned. They are excellent for dessert, and loganberries can be substituted for other berries in many recipes – for example, for mulberries in Mulberry Jelly and Mulberry Pie, or for raspberries in Raspberry Sauce and Summer Pudding.

LOQUAT (JAPANESE MEDLAR)

The fruit of an Oriental tree related to the rose. Loquats are glossy, orange-coloured fruit about the size of a small plum, with juicy tart-sweet flesh. They are eaten raw or made into jams and jellies.

LYCHEE (LITCHI, LICHEE)

A small fruit native to South China, with translucent white flesh; the flavour and texture are distinctive but somewhat reminiscent of a luscious grape. Canned lychees are more familiar than fresh ones, but the latter, in their knobbly, plum-brown shells, appear sometimes in good greengrocer’s shops, and are ambrosial eating.

Lychees make a refreshing dessert at the end of a Chinese meal. They are excellent in a fruit salad, and are also used in Chinese pork or duck dishes, rather as apples and oranges are used in European cooking.

ALMOND JELLY WITH LYCHEES

2½ cups water
3 teaspoons agar agar powder (see Note)
½ cup sugar
1 cup evaporated milk
½ teaspoon almond essence
1 × 565 g can lychees in syrup, chilled
6 maraschino cherries, to decorate

Place water in a saucepan and sprinkle agar agar powder over the top. Bring to the boil, then simmer for 5 minutes. Add sugar and milk and heat gently, stirring all the time, until sugar dissolves. Add almond essence drop by drop, to suit your taste. Pour into a cake tin or mould, and chill for 1 hour or until set. To serve, cut jelly into squares or diamond shapes. Drain lychees and reserve 1 cup syrup. Arrange jelly pieces and lychees in 6 individual bowls, pour a little syrup over and decorate each serving with a cherry. Serves 6.

NOTE: Agar agar powder is a setting agent, like gelatine, and is obtainable from Asian food stores. If not available use 3 teaspoons powdered gelatine.