cup caster sugar pinch arrowroot
½ cup white wine, sweet sherry or fruit juice
SABAYON SAUCE
A lovely sweet sauce flavoured with wine or fruit juice. Serve cold with poached fresh fruits or fruit jellies, or hot with hot sponge or fruit puddings or warm poached pears (see To Poach Pears).
HOT SABAYON SAUCE
3 egg yolks cup caster sugar
pinch arrowroot
½ cup white wine, sweet sherry or fruit juice
Beat yolks with sugar and arrowroot in a heatproof bowl until very pale and thick. Add wine, sherry or juice and whisk vigorously. Place bowl over a saucepan of simmering water and continue whisking vigorously until sauce thickens. Do not allow water to get hotter than a simmer, or let water touch bowl. Remove from heat and beat for another few minutes. Serve immediately. Makes about 1½ cups.
VARIATION
COLD SABAYON SAUCE: Proceed as above, using an extra egg yolk. After removing from the heat and beating for a few minutes, place bowl over ice and continue whisking until sauce is thoroughly chilled.
SACHER TORTE
Lawsuits have been fought over the right to call a cake by this name. This recipe is close to the one served at the Hotel Sacher in Vienna.
SACHER TORTE
185 g (6 oz) cooking chocolate
155 g (5 oz) butter
1½ cups caster sugar
2 tablespoons rum
1 tablespoon water
5 eggs, separated
1½ cups flour
apricot jam
Chocolate glaze
90 g (3 oz) chocolate, chopped
¾ cup cream
1¼ cups caster sugar
1 teaspoon golden syrup
1 egg
1 teaspoon vanilla essence
Melt chocolate in a small heatproof bowl over simmering water, then cool. Cream butter with sugar until light and fluffy. Stir rum and water into cooled chocolate and add to creamed mixture, beating well. Add egg yolks one at a time, beating well after each addition. Fold in sifted flour. Beat egg whites until stiff, and fold through cake mixture lightly until just incorporated. Divide mixture between 2 greased, lined and floured 20 cm (8 in) sandwich tins. Bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for 40–45 minutes or until a fine skewer inserted in centre comes out clean. Cool on wire racks. When cold, sandwich together with warmed and sieved apricot jam.
To make chocolate glaze, combine chocolate, cream, sugar and syrup in a small heavy saucepan. Stir constantly over low heat until chocolate and sugar melt. Increase heat to medium and cook, without stirring, for 5 minutes or to soft ball stage (mixture forms a soft ball when a little is dropped into cold water). Lightly beat egg and stir in 4 tablespoons of chocolate mixture. Return this to remaining chocolate mixture in pan and cook over low heat, stirring constantly, for 3–4 minutes or until glaze coats back of spoon thickly. Remove from heat and add vanilla. Cool to room temperature before using. Place cake on a wire rack over a baking tray. Pour glaze onto cake and smooth with a palette knife. When glaze stops dripping, transfer cake to a serving plate and refrigerate for 3 hours. Remove from refrigerator 30 minutes before serving.
SAFFRON
One of the most common spices of mediaeval cookery, saffron is now too expensive to be used with such abandon, although it is an essential ingredient of the Provençal bouillabaisse, the Milanese risotto and Spanish rice dishes, such as the traditional paella. It is also widely used in Indian cookery, especially in rice dishes and biryani.
Saffron comes from the orange stigmas of a type of crocus flower. The plant is native to Asia and parts of Europe, but was also grown extensively in England at one time, and has given its name to the town of Saffron Walden.
Saffron is available either as the dried stigmas or as a powder. The former may be ground, crumbled or used whole before being mixed with hot stock or liquid as called for in a recipe, while the powder is simply infused in the liquid.
MUSSELS IN SAFFRON SAUCE
½ teaspoon saffron threads, crumbled
¼ cup warm water
1 kg (2 lb) mussels, cleaned
1 small onion, chopped
1 bay leaf
3 sprigs parsley
1 sprig thyme
3–4 fennel seeds 
cup water
1 cup Béchamel Sauce
1 tablespoon cooked, finely chopped spinach
½ cup fresh breadcrumbs
30 g (1 oz) butter, cut into small pieces
Soak saffron in ¼ cup warm water for 1–2 hours. Place prepared mussels in a wide flameproof casserole and add onion, bay leaf, parsley, thyme, fennel seeds and cup water. Cover and cook over high heat for about 5 minutes, shaking pan occasionally. Remove mussels as soon as they are open, and discard shells. Discard any mussels that do not open. Strain cooking liquid and add 1 cup to béchamel sauce, stirring over very low heat. Discard any remaining cooking liquid. Stir in saffron threads and their soaking liquid, spinach and shelled mussels. Turn mixture into a flameproof gratin dish, sprinkle with breadcrumbs and dot with butter. Grill under a preheated high grill for about 5 minutes or until crumbs are crisp and golden. Serve immediately with crusty French bread. Serves 2.
SPANISH RICE SOUP
½ teaspoon saffron threads, crumbled
¼ cup warm water
90 g (3 oz) butter
2 large onions, chopped
1–1½ cups long-grain rice
½ teaspoon white pepper
8 cups hot chicken stock
Soak saffron threads in measured water for 1–2 hours. Melt butter in a large heavy saucepan and sauté onions for 5 minutes. Lower heat, add rice and stir until grains are coated with butter and translucent. Season with pepper and add half the stock. Cover and cook over low heat for 25 minutes. Add remaining stock, saffron threads and liquid and cook, uncovered, for a further 10 minutes. Serves 6–8.
CORNISH SAFFRON CAKE
½ teaspoon saffron threads, crumbled
¼ cup warm water
4 cups flour
½ teaspoon salt
125 g (4 oz) butter
30 g (1 oz) compressed yeast
¾ cup warm milk
¼ cup caster sugar
2 eggs, beaten
¾ cup sultanas
2 tablespoons chopped mixed candied peel
2 tablespoons milk
Soak saffron in measured warm water for 1–2 hours. Sift flour and salt together, add butter and rub in until mixture resembles crumbs. Dissolve yeast in warm milk, stir in saffron threads and their soaking liquid and add to flour mixture with sugar and eggs. Beat until smooth and elastic. Put into a clean, greased bowl and turn dough over so it is greased lightly all over. Cover bowl with a cloth and leave to rise in a warm place for about 45–50 minutes or until doubled in bulk.
Mix in sultanas and peel and turn dough into a greased 20 cm (8 in) cake tin. Set aside in a warm place to prove for about 15–20 minutes or until dough reaches the top of the tin.
Brush cake with milk and bake in a preheated hot oven (200°C/400°F) for 45–50 minutes. Cool on a wire rack and serve warm or cold with cream. Serves 8.
NOTE: ½ teaspoon powered saffron may be used in place of saffron threads. Dissolve in ¼ cup warm water and use without soaking. Dry yeast can be used; see Yeast Cookery.
SAGE
An easily grown perennial herb with a strong, pungent and slightly bitter flavour. The leaves may be dried, but for best flavour use young, fresh leaves. Always use sage sparingly; too much can completely overpower a dish.
Sage is common in both English and European cuisine. In Britain it is used as a flavouring in stuff-ings, especially the traditional sage and onion stuffing for roast duck. It is also one of the components of mixed herbs, and it is used to flavour cheese (for example sage derby) and special breads. Although in French cooking sage is not as widely used as thyme or rosemary, it is often used to flavour a roast of pork in Provence; Italian cooks combine sage with veal, as in saltimbocca, and in veal chops with sage and white wine.
VEAL CHOPS WITH SAGE AND WHITE WINE
4 veal loin chops, 2 cm (¾ in) thick
¼ cup flour
3 tablespoons oil
12 leaves dried or fresh sage
salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ cup dry white wine
30 g (1 oz) butter
Lightly coat the chops in flour. Heat oil in a frying pan and add chops and sage. Brown chops on both sides for about 8–10 minutes, turning 2 or 3 times. Remove chops to rest on a warmed plate when cooked and season with salt and pepper. Tilt pan and drain off any excess oil. Add wine to pan and deglaze, scraping up any residue. Boil until almost completely evaporated, then reduce heat and mix in butter. Return chops to pan to warm through with the sauce. Serves 4.
SAGE AND ONION STUFFING
4 leaves fresh sage
2 mild onions, finely chopped
2 cups fresh breadcrumbs
grated rind ½ lemon
2–3 tablespoons melted butter
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Blanch the sage leaves in boiling water for about 5 minutes, then drain them and chop finely. Combine the sage, onions, breadcrumbs, lemon rind, melted butter, salt and pepper. If necessary, add a little stock to bind mixture. Makes sufficient stuffing to fill 1 large duckling.
ROAST PORK WITH SAGE
1 × 2 kg (4 lb) boned pork loin, in one piece, trimmed of rind and excess fat
6 young leaves fresh sage
1 bay leaf
½ teaspoon dried thyme
2 teaspoons salt
olive oil
2–3 cloves garlic, halved
Prepare meat the day before cooking. Make small cuts in meat and insert sage leaves. Crumble bay leaf, mix with dried thyme and salt and rub mixture over pork. Drizzle 2–3 tablespoons olive oil over pork and place halved garlic cloves on top. Cover and leave for at least 12 hours. Next day, place meat in roasting tin, with garlic underneath, and drizzle a little more oil over meat. Roast in preheated moderately slow oven (160°C/325°F) for about 2 hours, basting from time to time with pan juices, until juices from meat run clear. Remove to heated plate. If desired, deglaze tin with a little white or rosé wine and serve pan juices with meat. Serves 8.
SAGO
The tiny grains of sago are made from a type of paste, derived from the sago palm, which grows in tropical regions.
Sago is basically a carbohydrate with little distinct flavour of its own. Like other starchy products, however, it can absorb liquids and act as a thickener. It is sometimes used to thicken soups, but its principal use is in desserts.
LEMON SAGO
1 cup sago
3 cups water
grated rind 2 lemons
juice 3 lemons
3 tablespoons golden syrup
3 tablespoons sugar
Soak sago in water for 30 minutes, then add remaining ingredients and pour into a saucepan. Bring to the boil, stirring, and simmer until quite thick. Pour into a mould. Cool and chill. Serve with cream or custard. Serves 6.
SAGO PUDDING
2 tablespoons sago
3 cups milk
¼ cup sugar
3 eggs
½ teaspoon vanilla essence
Simmer sago in milk until grains have swelled, then pour into bowl and cool. Beat in sugar, eggs and vanilla. Pour into buttered ovenproof dish. Place dish in tin of hot water and bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for about 1 hour. Serve warm or chilled. Serves 4–6.
SALAD
There are few edible foods that cannot be used in salads. The first salad that springs to mind is perhaps the simple green, tossed salad so beloved of the epicurean French.
The English used to favour mixed salads, the most popular being lettuce with tomatoes, cucumber and probably beetroot, dressed with vinaigrette or salad dressing. The Americans introduced fruit to green salads. Today, the whole world, from the super chefs of great kitchens to imaginative home cooks in search of good, healthy, fresh-tasting meals, have taken to salad-making with the same delight as ducks to water.
Fresh vegetables are the richest and cheapest source of the numerous vitamins and minerals essential to our health. With the herbs, meats, fish, eggs, cheese and oils that are mixed with these, a salad can be a complete balanced meal.
To make the most of salads buy only young, tender, fresh greens, vegetables and fruits. Use imagination with the additional foods. The other golden rule is that the dressing should be added at the last moment (there are, of course, exceptions). Also, a salad looks fluffier and more bouncy when just prepared; it seems to settle on standing and lose its light, freshly made look.
Included in this section are salads that have become classics, salads that you will find on restaurant menus, and many that are made in homes for family meals and for entertaining. The foods that go to make many salads have been listed as well as the ‘dressings’ that add distinction to salads. For other salads see the Index, because many delicious salads are distributed throughout the book.
Types of salad greens:
Greens must be very fresh and unwilted. Buy or pick only enough for a day or two. Discard any tough or dry outer leaves and wash them as you require them. Don’t break up the heads before storing them in the refrigerator; separate the leaves and wash them as required. Salad greens need careful washing in cold water, as sand hides in their crevices.
It is very important to dry greens thoroughly. Fold the wet leaves in a tea-towel and shake them gently over the sink. When the leaves are dry, break them up, wrap in a dry tea-towel and return to the refrigerator until it is time to make the salad. A most useful gadget, looking like a hand-operated spin dryer, is a plastic salad dryer; it really makes a splendid job of drying salad greens, without bruising or crushing tender leaves.
Cabbage: The main varieties used for salads are Savoy, drumhead and red cabbages. Discard the outside wilted leaves before slicing. Cabbage has a strong distinctive flavour. See also Cabbage.
Chicory (Belgian endive or witlof): Tightly clustered white leaves, with yellow, tender tips. The leaves can be used whole or sliced. Chicory has a slightly tangy taste. See also Chicory.
Endive, curly: Tightly curled bunchy head. The leaves graduate from dark green to yellow-green at the heart. Use the crisp young leaves and centre stalk. Endive has a slightly bitter taste. See also Endive, Curly.
Escarole: Slightly curly, rich green outer leaves, with a fresh yellow heart. Use only the tender centre leaves for salad. The flavour is slightly bitter. See also Escarole.
Lettuce: The iceberg lettuce, with its firm heart and crisp outer leaves, is the basis of many salads. Mignonette lettuce, with its small soft leaves, is a favourite with home gardeners. Look for other varieties such as cos and romaine. Flavours are mild. See also Lettuce.
Parsley, Italian: This has a flatter and larger leaf than the more common, tightly curled parsley, and a slightly stronger flavour.
Spring onions: This is the term used in this book to describe immature onions with the slender green leaves (sometimes called green onions). There is also a green onion where the white base has developed into a round bulb. Remove outside leaves and root base. Cut off tough green leaves. Spring onions have a fresh onion flavour. Look also for the true French shallot, a small purple bulb with a red-brown or golden skin (sometimes called a golden shallot) and a mild flavour. See also Onion.
Spinach, English: Dark green leaves on slim stalks, with reddish, fibrous roots. Use when very fresh. Don’t confuse spinach with silverbeet, which has larger, tougher leaves; only the very young tender leaves of silverbeet are suitable for salads. Spinach has a mild flavour. See also Spinach.
Types of salad vegetables:
Avocado: Once a great favourite with the Aztecs, this pear-shaped fruit, with its rich buttery flesh, is greatly appreciated for its delicate but distinctive flavour. There are many varieties and they are found the year round. The perfect partner for cold seafood, avocado is equally good combined with a green salad or served alone with Vinaigrette Dressing. See also Avocado.
Bean sprouts: Sprouted mung beans are crisp and crunchy and enjoyed in many salads. The sprouted bean of the shoot (minus the bean) is used. Other shoots like alfalfa are also popular in salads. See also Bean Sprouts.
Beans, green: Small whole beans or long slender snake beans make an interesting fresh salad. Just top and tail them. If very young, they do not need stringing. Blanch in boiling salted water for 5 minutes, then drain and rinse in cold water to preserve their bright green colour and crisp texture. Season with a little grated nutmeg and toss in a garlic-flavoured Vinaigrette Dressing. Scatter snipped fresh chives and chopped parsley over the top. A few mashed anchovies added to the dressing give an excellent flavour to a bean salad. See also Beans, Green.
Cabbage, Chinese: Shaped much like a large romaine lettuce, with long, thin, mild-flavoured leaves. The leaves are green-edged and nearly white in the centre. See also Cabbage.
Carrots: Carrots for salads must be young and crisp; either grate them or cut into julienne (matchstick) strips. They combine well with all salad vegetables. See also Carrot.
Cauliflower: Just as good in salads as it is eaten as a hot vegetable. Break off florets, cutting away the tough stems, and cook in boiling salted water for a few minutes. Then drain and rinse under cold running water. Try it combined with celery, ham and a mustard-flavoured Vinaigrette Dressing, served chilled, sprinkled with a few chopped fresh herbs. See also Cauliflower.
Chicory, Italian: Long, dark green, smooth stems with leaves resembling spinach. The leaves can be cooked like spinach and any tender stalks sliced and added to salads.
Cucumber: The perfect summer salad vegetable, with its cool distinctive taste. It combines perfectly with salad dressings, and is delicious with sour cream, to which a little grated fresh ginger and fresh garlic may be added. It is not necessary to remove the skin when cucumber is sliced thinly. Lightly salt the slices, placed in a colander, and allow to stand for 30 minutes to extract indigestible juices. Drain and rinse well with cold water. Toss in a little Vinaigrette Dressing and scatter with a few freshly snipped chives or finely chopped dill. See also Cucumber.
Fennel: The vegetable Florence fennel, with its white celery-like stem, is the one used for salads. Sliced thinly, its distinctive aniseed flavour mixes well with salad greens and tomatoes. Its feathery leaves, when finely chopped, give an aromatic flavour to cream sauces for fish. See also Fennel.
Garlic: This pungent bulb is a necessity in today’s kitchen. Before using, remove the thin, papery skin surrounding each clove. A cut clove rubbed around a salad bowl gives a lift to a simple green salad. Rubbed with some olive oil on slices of French bread (in France called chapons), and then tossed with the greens, it imparts its full aromatic flavour to a green salad. A touch of garlic, for many, is an indispensable part of a salad. See also Garlic.
Mushrooms: Small button mushrooms are best for salads. They are good eaten raw, and may be left whole or thinly sliced. It’s not necessary to peel them: just wipe them with a cloth dipped in water and a little lemon juice. Toss in a light Vinaigrette Dressing, with plenty of freshly chopped parsley. See also Mushroom.
Peppers, green and red: These glossy vegetables are, perhaps, the most beautiful of all salad ingredients. Their sweet peppery flavour is greatly appreciated in rice salads, potato salads and the delicious Provençal ratatouille and salade niçoise. See also Pepper, Sweet.
Radish: These are sold in tightly clustered bunches. Ideal for salads or served whole with hard-boiled eggs, olives and cherry tomatoes. See also Radish.
Tomatoes: Choose firm, red tomatoes. These can be peeled, if liked, and sliced or quartered and tossed in a good dressing; excellent, too, with chopped basil, oregano or parsley. Tomatoes are often added to other salad vegetables to make a mixed salad. Alternatively, scoop out centre and fill with diced cucumber, or a rice or seafood salad. Cherry tomatoes, sometimes called ‘Tom Thumbs’, are now available and are good eaten whole or tossed in a mixed salad. See also Tomato.
Watercress, and mustard and cress: These herbs are now available from nurseries and specialty kitchen shops for the home gardener. Watercress is bought in tight bunches, and its small, attractive sprigs, with their slightly bitter, peppery taste, make a perfect salad ingredient. Cut off tough stems, tie the dark leafy heads into bunches and stand in ice-cold water to keep them crisp and fresh. Dress them with a mustard-flavoured Vinaigrette Dressing. Mustard and cress are bought already sprouted in punnets. Snip off tops only and sprinkle them over salads. See also Cress.
Zucchini: These small, dark green marrows, which are particularly favoured by southern Europeans, combine beautifully with quartered tomatoes and peppers. Blanch them in boiling salted water and refresh in ice-cold water before using. Add them to a green salad or toss with mushroom slices, some oregano and a garlic-flavoured Vinaigrette Dressing. Excellent with terrines and cold meats. See also Zucchini.
Other salad ingredients:
Anchovies: A little goes a long way. These distinctively flavoured fish are featured in Caesar Salad and Salade Niçoise. See also Anchovy.
Cheese: Wedges, cubes, slivers, julienne (matchstick) strips and finger-size sticks of all kinds of cheese can add richness and flavour to a salad. Blue cheese is often crumbled into a dressing; Parmesan or pecorino is grated and sprinkled over some salads. Soft cream and ricotta cheeses make great lunch salads: sprinkle mounds of cheese with snipped chives and chopped green onions, and dust with paprika; accompany with a few salad greens and tomatoes. See also Cheese.
Croûtons, pasta, potatoes and rice: These provide a pleasant contrast to the crispness of vegetables, and add substance to a salad. See also Croûtes and Croûtons; Pasta; Potato; Rice.
Eggs, hard-boiled: Chopped or quartered hard-boiled eggs are most suitable for a substantial salad; grated or sieved, they can give an attractive mimosa effect to a green salad. Particularly good with strong or bitter greens like endive, chicory or escarole, eggs seem to round them off. See also Egg.
Fish, meats and poultry: These add substance to a salad, and are the base on which to build a ‘meal-in-itself’ salad. Leftover meats, if a little dry, may be marinated in a good dressing. Often meats, poultry and seafood are cooked especially for salad-making; canned varieties are often featured in salads.
Herbs, fresh: Tossed with a green salad or mixed in with the dressing, herbs give that distinctive taste to a salad. Fines herbes, beloved of the French, is the great classic mixture, and is made, traditionally, with chopped parsley, chives, tarragon and chervil; but any combination of these can be used. Use basil in tomato salads; chives with cheese; dill with fish and cucumber; Chinese parsley with chicken (particularly if the dressing is Oriental); and ordinary parsley with just about all salads. See also Herbs, and individual entries for different herbs.
Nuts: Soft yet crunchy walnuts or pecans, roughly chopped, can be particularly good as an accent in a winter salad of tart greens. See also individual entries.
Olives, green, black or stuffed: Stone and slice or sliver. Use them sparingly in a green salad; they are more appropriate for a mixed concoction or a composed salad (in which case leave them whole). See also Olive.
Pimiento: Bright red, canned pimiento adds a bright touch to many salads. Drain before using. See also Pimiento.
Types of salads:
Green salad, tossed: Often called a French salad, this mixture of crisp greens, torn into bite-size pieces only, is tossed in a light Vinaigrette Dressing at the last moment and liberally sprinkled with chopped parsley and other herbs. It is a classic accompaniment to French roast chicken. It is often served with, or after, a main course, particularly if there are no green vegetables with the dish.
Green salads can be made up of plain lettuce, cos or iceberg lettuce, depending on the season, or be a mixture of salad greens and vegetables, such as watercress, sliced cucumber and shallots. Chicory can also be added in season. Tomato and beetroot, etc., are not included in a true French tossed green salad.
Mixed salad, tossed: A green salad with other additions, for example tomatoes, cheese, etc., that can make it a light meal in itself. The dressing (see Salad Dressings) may be a standard Vinaigrette or varied with herbs or canned anchovy fillets.
Composed salad: The ingredients are arranged attractively in a bowl, and a little dressing is spooned over. The diners takes portions of salad and help themselves to additional dressing.
Substantial salad: Often based on rice, macaroni or other pastas, or potatoes, with crispy, crunchy salad greens and vegetables added. The dressings used can be as varied as the ingredients.
Vegetable salad, cooked: Cooked vegetables may be marinated in a dressing and served as a salad or as part of an hors d’oeuvre tray. Choose young, tender ones and do not overcook them: they should still be a little crisp inside.
Starter salad: A light salad, refreshing to the palate and not too filling. Particularly popular as a starter is a salad based on eggs or fish. Sometimes a selection of salads is presented as hors d’oeuvre, in little white oblong or oval dishes; they are a feature in French and Italian restaurants, particularly for lunch.
Light meal salad: When a salad has protein in the form of egg, fish, cheese or meat, plus vegetables, it makes a delicious complete meal. Simply add crusty bread and a glass of light wine.
Side salad: This is where a salad comes truly into its own, as an accompaniment to a more grand dish. Instead of serving only hot vegetables with cooked meats, etc., serve a salad either alone or as well.
The salad should be vegetable-based but can vary from a simple tossed salad to a composed salad – take your pick. Dress it carefully with a delicate dressing just before serving, using your imagination for what goes with what.
MIXED GREEN SALAD WITH CHAPONS
Chapons are slices of French bread (flavoured liberally with garlic, a good olive oil and pepper) which are tossed with a salad of mixed greens to add a distinct garlic flavour. Much better than merely smearing the serving bowl with garlic!
selection of salad greens (lettuce, curly endive, spinach, spring onions, parsley, watercress)
1 cucumber
2 cloves garlic, crushed
3–4 tablespoons olive oil
freshly ground black pepper
6 slices French bread
Vinaigrette Dressing
Rinse, dry and chill salad greens. Tear into bite-size pieces. Peel cucumber leaving a little green colour on the flesh. Cut in half lengthways and scoop out seeds with a spoon. Cut into 5 cm (2 in) lengths. Put garlic in a small bowl with olive oil and a good grinding of black pepper. Mix well, then brush on slices of French bread. Add to bowl with salad greens and cucumber, and just before serving toss with a little vinaigrette dressing. Serves 4.
GREEN SALAD
1 lettuce, or selection of salad greens cup Vinaigrette Dressing
garlic (optional)
chopped mixed fresh herbs (thyme, chives, mint, parsley)
If lettuce leaves are large, pull rather than cut them apart. Wash well, spin-dry in a salad basket or clean cloth (see Salad Greens). Make sure this is thoroughly done. If lettuce is at all limp, put it into refrigerator (in salad drawer or hydrator) until crisp. Tear into bite-size pieces and put into a salad bowl with other greens. Watercress should be well rinsed in the bunch under cold running water, then shaken to get rid of moisture. Carefully pick over and remove some of the stalk; use sprigs only. Watercress gives a slightly peppery taste to salads.
Garlic may be used to flavour a green salad, but use it cautiously. Either rub bowl with a peeled clove or, better still, rub a clove well over a crust of French or ordinary bread. Having put salad into bowl, bury this chapon, as it is called, among leaves (not forgetting to remove it before serving the salad at the table).
Add vinaigrette dressing by sprinkling it over leaves, tossing lightly to make them glisten. A green salad should be dressed at the last moment, otherwise leaves will wilt and be unappetising. For a large amount of salad, you will find it easier to mix it with its dressing in a really big bowl, and then to transfer it to your salad bowl.
To make salad the Italian way: sprinkle in enough oil on its own, tossing leaves all the time to make them glisten. Mix vinegar (one-third of the quantity of oil used) and seasoning together, and sprinkle over greens. For stronger flavour, crush garlic with a little salt and add to this dressing. Stir once or twice before serving salad, so that dressing is evenly distributed. Before serving, sprinkle with chopped herbs and parsley. Serves 4–6.
NOTE: cup vinaigrette is usually enough for one lettuce plus 1–2 cups other greens.
CHICORY AND ORANGE SALAD
2 oranges
3 heads chicory, cut diagonally into 6 mm (¼ in) slices
2 carrots, grated
Vinaigrette dressing
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon walnut oil
1 tablespoon vinegar
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
pinch sugar
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Remove peel and pith from oranges and cut between membrane to remove segments. Combine chicory slices, orange segments and carrot in a salad bowl.
To make vinaigrette dressing, whisk together ingredients. Add to salad and toss well. Serves 4–6.
SALADE PÉRIGORDINE
1 lettuce
4–6 tomatoes, cut into wedges
4 hard-boiled eggs, chopped
9–10 walnuts, roughly chopped
3 rashers streaky bacon, rind removed, cut into strips
Dressing
1½ tablespoons wine vinegar
1 teaspoon lemon juice
5 tablespoons walnut, sunflower or corn oil
½ teaspoon sugar
½ teaspoon French mustard
1 clove garlic, crushed
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Put lettuce leaves, tomato wedges, chopped eggs and walnuts in a large salad bowl and mix gently. Fry bacon, without extra fat, over moderate heat until crisp.
To make dressing, combine ingredients in a screw-top jar and shake well. Add dressing to salad and toss thoroughly. Drain bacon, stir into salad and serve immediately. Serves 4.
SPINACH AND WALNUT SALAD
¼ cup chopped walnuts
3 shallots, finely chopped
½ bunch young spinach leaves, torn into pieces
2 teaspoons white wine vinegar
2 tablespoons walnut or olive oil
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Put walnuts, shallots and spinach in a salad bowl. Cover and chill for 1 hour. Combine vinegar, oil, salt and pepper in a screw-top jar and shake well. When ready to serve, pour dressing over salad, toss well to coat the leaves and serve immediately. Serves 4.
LETTUCE WEDGES WITH CREAM DRESSING
1 firm iceberg lettuce
½ teaspoon English mustard
1 teaspoon sugar
2 teaspoons wine vinegar
½ teaspoon dried tarragon
1 clove garlic, crushed
1 hard-boiled egg, separated
½ cup cream
salt and freshly ground black pepper
snipped chives or chopped parsley to garnish
Remove outside leaves of lettuce, and cut away core at bottom. Cut lettuce into wedges, and arrange on a large platter or 6 individual plates. Mix together mustard, sugar, vinegar, tarragon, garlic and egg yolk. Stir in cream and season with salt and pepper. Spoon this dressing over lettuce wedges. Chop egg white and sprinkle over lettuce with chives and parsley. Serves 6.
NOTE: Make dressing just before serving, or vinegar will sour cream and make the dressing too thick.
CHICKEN WALDORF
As served in the New York restaurant of that name.
4 half-breasts of chicken, or skinless, boneless fillets
1 cup apple cider
salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 eating apples, cut into thin wedges
juice 1 lemon
6–8 spring onions, shredded
3 sticks tender celery, cut into julienne (matchstick) strips
½ cup walnut pieces
parsley to garnish
Walnut sauce
1 egg, lightly beaten
½ tablespoon sugar
2 teaspoons flour
½ teaspoon dry mustard
½ cup cream
¼ cup finely chopped walnuts
little extra cream
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Carefully remove skin and bones from chicken breasts. Poach breasts or fillets in cider, seasoned with salt and pepper, for about 8 minutes. Cool in liquid. Lift out chicken and cut breasts diagonally into 3 even-shaped fillets. Lay on a large dish, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until required. Strain liquid and reserve for sauce. Coat apple wedges with lemon juice.
To make walnut sauce, place reserved chicken cooking liquid in a stainless steel or enamel saucepan and boil to reduce to ½ cup. Remove from heat and stir in egg, sugar, flour and mustard. Whisk in cream. Return to medium heat and bring to the boil, whisking constantly. Strain through fine sieve and add walnuts. Cool to room temperature, and thin to desired consistency with extra cream. Season with salt and pepper.
One hour before serving, arrange salad on a large platter as follows: place apple wedges down centre and strew over spring onions and celery, leaving a few for garnish. Arrange chicken breasts over vegetables. Spoon some walnut sauce over chicken, top with walnut pieces and strew with remaining celery and spring onions. Serve remaining sauce separately. Garnish with parsley. Serves 6.
CATHAY SALAD
The Asian use of ginger gave this salad its name.
2 cups bean sprouts
6 spring onions, finely chopped
1 avocado, peeled, stoned and finely sliced
250 g (8 oz) medium prawns, cooked, shelled and de-veined
2 chicken breasts, poached, skinned, boned and finely sliced
125 g (4 oz) fresh champignons (tiny button mushrooms), finely sliced
watercress or mignonette lettuce
Mustard and ginger dressing
1 tablespoon lemon juice
3 tablespoons safflower oil
1 clove garlic, crushed
1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger
1 teaspoon tarragon-flavoured mustard or plain French mustard
1 tablespoon cream
Combine bean sprouts, spring onions, avocado, prawns, chicken and champignons. Place in a chilled bowl on a bed of watercress or mignonette lettuce.
To make dressing, combine all ingredients in a jar and shake well. Toss salad lightly in dressing just before serving. Serves 2–3.
CURRIED PECAN CHICKEN SALAD
3 half-breasts of chicken
1 carrot, sliced
1 onion, sliced
7 sticks celery, sliced
salt
3 medium Jonathan apples, cored and diced
juice 1 lemon cup pecan halves or walnuts
1 tablespoon oil
2 teaspoons curry powder
1 small onion, chopped
½ cup Mayonnaise
lettuce leaves to serve
Poach chicken breasts in enough water to cover, with carrot, sliced onion, 1 celery stick and a little salt for 8 minutes or until tender. Drain and cool. Discard skin and bones and dice meat. Sprinkle apples with lemon juice. Place in a bowl with chicken, pecan halves or walnuts and remaining celery. Heat oil in a frying pan, add curry powder and chopped onion and cook gently for about 5 minutes. Add to mayonnaise. Toss chicken salad with well-seasoned mayonnaise and chill. Serve salad piled up on crisp lettuce leaves. Serves 6 as a first course or 4 as a main course.
ORIENTAL SALAD
1 lettuce or a mixture of young spinach, watercress or various kinds of lettuce – whatever is leafy and interesting at the greengrocers
1 cup mung bean sprouts
½ cup thinly sliced water chestnuts
¼ cup slivered toasted almonds
Oriental dressing
¼ cup chopped spring onions
1 teaspoon chopped fresh coriander
¼ cup chopped parsley
1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 cup sour light cream
2 tablespoons Mayonnaise
Rinse and dry lettuce or other greens and refrigerate until crisp. Tear into serving pieces, place in salad bowl and scatter bean sprouts and water chestnuts over.
To make dressing, mix all dressing ingredients together and drizzle over salad. Scatter almonds on top and toss lightly. Serve immediately. Serves 6–8.
DUCK AND PAWPAW SALAD
This salad may also be made very successfully with cold turkey and is a good salad for those days after Christmas when leftover turkey is on the menu.
500 g (1 lb) cooked duck, turkey or chicken meat, sliced
jellied turkey or duck juices (if available)
1 good-size ripe pawpaw, peeled, seeded and finely sliced
juice ½ lemon
½ cup walnut pieces
curly endive or mignonette lettuce
Dressing
2 tablespoons walnut oil
2 tablespoons safflower oil
2 tablespoons finely snipped chives
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Moisten meat with any jellied meat juices. Sprinkle pawpaw slices with lemon juice. Stand for about 10 minutes, then drain, reserving juice. Toast walnuts lightly in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F).
To make dressing, combine 2 tablespoons of the reserved pawpaw juice with oil, chives, salt and pepper. Shake well to combine. Line a salad bowl or dish with endive or lettuce and arrange meat and pawpaw on it. Spoon over dressing and garnish with walnut pieces. Serves 4.
NOTE: If walnut oil is not available, use 4 tablespoons safflower oil.
CHICKEN CITRUS SALAD
A lovely salad of cool colours and fresh flavours which looks best in a clear glass bowl.
1 cucumber, peeled and seeded
4 half-breasts of chicken, poached, skinned, boned and cut into small pieces
2 sticks tender celery, finely sliced
1 small green pepper, cored, seeded and finely sliced
1 grapefruit, segmented without membrane
combination of mignonette or iceberg lettuce and watercress
Dressing
cup Mayonnaise cup Vinaigrette Dressing
1 teaspoon mild Dijon mustard
½ small onion, grated
1 teaspoon finely chopped chives
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley and 2 teaspoons capers to garnish
Cut cucumber into balls with a melon baller. Place in a bowl with chicken, celery, green pepper and grapefruit.
To make dressing, whisk all ingredients together until well blended. Pour over salad and toss carefully. Serve in a chilled salad bowl on a bed of lettuce and watercress. Garnish with parsley and capers. Serves 2.
ROAST BEEF SALAD
500 g (1 lb) cold roast beef, cut into strips
4 medium tomatoes, cut into wedges
1 celery heart, finely sliced
50 g (½ cup) stuffed olives
watercress
lettuce
Blue cheese dressing
2 tablespoons cream
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
2 tablespoons oil
freshly ground black pepper
60 g (2 oz) blue cheese (preferably French Roquefort), crumbled
Combine beef with tomatoes, celery and olives. Place on a bed of watercress and lettuce.
To make dressing, shake together cream, vinegar, oil and pepper in a jar until well combined. Carefully stir in crumbled cheese just before dressing is used. Spoon over salad. Serves 4.
MEXICAN SALAD
Young nasturtium leaves give a delicious piquant flavour to salads.
½ Savoy cabbage, finely sliced
1 bunch watercress
young nasturtium leaves, or mustard and cress
1 avocado, peeled, stoned and sliced
4 rashers lean bacon, rind removed, grilled until crisp and crumbled
1 chilli, seeded and finely chopped
1 half-breast of chicken, poached, skinned, boned and sliced
6 small radishes, sliced
1 red pepper, cored, seeded and sliced
Anchovy dressing
2 anchovy fillets
milk
1 tablespoon wine vinegar
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 clove garlic, crushed
1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh oregano, or pinch dried
freshly ground black pepper
Combine cabbage in a large bowl with watercress and nasturtium leaves, avocado, bacon, chilli, chicken, radishes and red pepper.
To make dressing, soak anchovies in milk for 10 minutes. Drain and pat dry. Mash them to a paste and blend in vinegar and oil. Add garlic and oregano, and season with pepper. Spoon dressing over salad and toss very carefully so as not to break avocado. Serves 4–6.
TUNA PASTA SALAD
350 g (12 oz) green tagliatelle noodles
1 × 200 g can tuna fish, drained
2 small onions, finely sliced
2 ripe tomatoes, peeled and quartered
2 hard-boiled eggs, quartered
10 black olives, stoned
chopped parsley
Dressing
1 tablespoon tarragon vinegar
1 tablespoon sherry
salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons chopped spring onions or shallots
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
4 tablespoons olive oil
Cook pasta in boiling salted water until al dente, or tender but still firm. Drain well and cool. Flake tuna lightly with a fork (be careful as tuna can easily become mushy). Mix with cooked pasta, onions, tomatoes, eggs and olives.
To make dressing, combine vinegar, sherry, salt, pepper, spring onions or shallots and parsley in a bowl. Add oil in a stream, beating dressing until it is well combined. Pour dressing over salad and toss gently. Sprinkle with chopped parsley. Serves 4.
FETTUCINI AND PEPPER SALAD
Sunday lunches in the garden call for relaxed meals. Serve this salad with barbecued meats or a platter of cold, sliced meats.
250 g (8 oz) fettucini noodles
2 red or green peppers, halved, cored and seeded
125 g (4 oz) Gruyère cheese, diced
6–8 walnuts, chopped
Dressing
4 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon walnut oil
1 tablespoon vinegar
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Cook noodles in boiling salted water for 8–10 minutes or until al dente, or tender but still firm. Drain. Grill peppers, cut sides down, under a preheated high grill until skins blacken and blister. When cool enough to handle, pull off thin outer skin and cut flesh into long, even strips. Mix pepper strips with cheese and walnuts in a salad bowl.
To make dressing, combine all ingredients for dressing. Add to noodles, mix lightly and toss with salad. Chill for at least 1 hour before serving. Serves 4.
ITALIAN HAM SALAD
1 cup pasta shells
125 g (4 oz) cooked ham, sliced and shredded
6–8 black olives, halved and stoned
2–3 tablespoons thick Mayonnaise
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
Cook pasta shells in boiling salted water for about 10 minutes or until al dente, or just tender. Drain and refresh under cold running water. Mix ham with olives and pasta. Add mayonnaise and stir enough into salad to bind. Serves 4.
PENNE, TUNA AND OLIVE SALAD
Penne is the name for pen-nib shaped lengths of hollow pasta which are lovely in a salad because they take in the flavour of the dressing and other ingredients. Serve this economical main-course salad with crusty bread, red wine and fresh fruit for a complete Italian-style summer meal.
250 g (8 oz) penne
1 large red or green pepper, cored, seeded and finely sliced
1 medium onion, finely sliced
4 tender sticks celery, finely sliced
¼ cup finely chopped parsley
10 black olives, halved and stoned
lettuce leaves
1 × 200 g can tuna in oil, drained
2 ripe tomatoes, quartered
sprigs of parsley or watercress to garnish
Tarragon dressing
1 clove garlic, crushed
½ teaspoon salt
freshly ground black pepper
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon wine vinegar
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon chopped fresh tarragon, or ¼ teaspoon dried
Cook penne in boiling salted water until al dente, or tender but still firm. Drain and rinse under hot running water.
To make dressing, place ingredients in a screw-top jar and shake until creamy and well blended. Place penne in a bowl, toss with dressing and leave to cool. Add pepper, onion, celery, parsley and olives and toss again. Line a serving bowl with lettuce leaves and pile salad in middle. Separate tuna into chunks and arrange on top of salad with tomato quarters. Garnish with sprigs of parsley or watercress and serve at room temperature. Serves 6–8.
SEAFOOD SALAD
Any combinations of seafood may be used in this salad, and rice, boiled for 14 minutes, may be substituted for the pasta.
125 g (4 oz) penne or other short tubular pasta
1 tablespoon curry powder
500 g (1 lb) fresh mussels, scrubbed and steamed open
250 g (8 oz) cooked prawns, shelled and de-veined
1 × 200 g can tuna in oil, drained and flaked
1 celery heart, or 1 bulb fennel, finely sliced
1 red and 1 yellow or green pepper, cored, seeded and finely sliced
50 g (½ cup) black olives, stoned
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Curry and herb–flavoured dressing
1 tablespoon red or white wine vinegar
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh herbs (thyme, parsley, chives, oregano, basil)
1 teaspoon French mustard
1 tablespoon sour cream
½ teaspoon curry powder
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Cook pasta in boiling salted water, flavoured with curry powder, until al dente, or tender but still firm to the bite. Drain well and cool. Remove mussels from their shells. In a salad bowl, combine pasta, mussels, prawns, tuna, celery or fennel, peppers and olives. Season with salt and plenty of pepper.
To make dressing, whisk all ingredients together until well blended. Toss salad with dressing just before serving. Serves 4–6.
NOTE: This salad may be served on a bed of crisp curly endive.
ROQUEFORT SALAD
You can buy small portions of the lovely ewe’s milk cheese of France. While it is a little expensive, this is an excellent way of enjoying its unique taste.
selection of salad greens (lettuce, chicory, curly endive)
1 clove garlic, halved
salt
¼ cup olive oil
1 tablespoon cider vinegar
1½ tablespoons fresh lemon juice
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
½ cup crumbled Roquefort cheese
Rinse and dry greens, and crisp in refrigerator. Place greens in a salad bowl that has been rubbed with garlic. Add salt, oil, vinegar, lemon juice, pepper and Roquefort. Toss lightly. Serve at once. Serves 6.
NUT AND CHEESE SALAD
3 tablespoons Vinaigrette Dressing
1 lettuce, crisped and torn into pieces
1 head chicory or tender sprigs curly endive
2 tablespoons chopped walnuts
125 g (4 oz) Gruyère cheese, diced
Make vinaigrette in the salad bowl. Add lettuce and chicory, cut in chunky pieces or leaves left whole if tiny, nuts and cheese. Just before serving toss lightly with dressing. Serves 4.
FENNEL, PEAR AND WATERCRESS SALAD
Serve this salad in a large flattish dish; it makes more of a display and makes it easy to select each serving.
2 tablespoons wine vinegar
1 tablespoon French mustard
1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger
salt and freshly ground black pepper
crushed garlic to taste
½ cup olive oil
1 tablespoon walnut oil
1 bunch watercress
1 bulb fennel, finely sliced
4 ripe pears, peeled, cored and sliced
Place vinaigrette in a bowl with mustard, ginger, salt pepper and garlic. Using a fork, gradually beat in olive and walnut oils until a thick dressing is formed. Place remaining ingredients in a salad bowl, pour over dressing and toss together gently before serving. Serves 6–8.
NOTE: For something a little out of the ordinary, add snow peas topped and tailed and lightly blanched in boiling water for 30 seconds.
WATERCRESS AND VIOLET SALAD
A lovely early springtime salad.
1 bunch violets
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 teaspoons wine vinegar
1 teaspoon Grand Marnier
1 bunch watercress
2 tablespoons chopped pecans
Snip stems off violets. Place olive oil, vinegar and Grand Marnier in a screw-top jar and shake well to blend. Place watercress in salad bowl, top with violets and nuts, add dressing, toss and serve. Serves 6.
BEETROOT SALAD WITH HORSERADISH SAUCE
2 cups diced cooked beetroot
1 cup sour cream
2 tablespoons cream
2 tablespoons lemon juice
2 tablespoons grated onion
2 tablespoons drained, pickled, grated horseradish
1 teaspoon salt
2 cups peeled and diced apple
1 cup diced tender celery
few shallots, cut into fine julienne (matchstick) strips, or snipped chives to garnish
Combine beetroot with sour cream, cream, lemon juice, onion, horseradish and salt in a salad bowl. Add apple and celery, then toss together well. Cover and chill salad for 1 hour before serving. Garnish with shallots or chives. Serves 6–8.
RADISH AND RED LETTUCE SALAD
Use radicchio, red oak or mignonette in this recipe.
2–3 red leaf lettuce or other soft-leaved lettuce, torn into bite-size pieces
8 radishes, finely sliced
¼ cup Vinaigrette Dressing, made with lime juice
coarsely ground black pepper
Combine lettuce and radishes in a bowl, drizzle dressing over and toss salad well. Divide salad between two salad bowls and sprinkle each serving with pepper. Serves 2.
ZUCCHINI SALAD
4 tablespoons olive oil
4 golden shallots, finely chopped
500 g (1 lb) zucchini, thinly sliced
1 teaspoon paprika
¼ teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon dill seeds or chopped fresh dill
2 tablespoons red or white wine vinegar
salt and freshly ground black pepper
chopped fresh dill to garnish
Heat olive oil in a deep frying pan, add shallots and zucchini and sauté over gentle heat for 2–3 minutes or until zucchini are tender but still crisp. Add paprika, sugar, dill seeds or fresh dill, vinegar, salt and pepper. Toss through and cook for 1 minute longer. Cool, then chill before serving, garnished with extra chopped fresh dill. Serves 4.
SPINACH SALAD WITH YOGURT
500 g (1 lb) fresh spinach, stems removed
½ cup plain yogurt
1 clove garlic, crushed
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Chop spinach roughly, then cook in covered saucepan, without any water except that which clings to leaves after washing, for about 5 minutes. Drain and cool, then squeeze out excess liquid. Combine yogurt and garlic and mix with spinach. Season with salt and pepper. Serves 4.
NEW POTATO SALAD
1 kg (2 lb) new potatoes
salt
Dressing
2 tablespoons vinegar
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
freshly ground black pepper
6 tablespoons olive oil
¼ cup chopped fresh herbs (parsley, chives, oregano, mint)
Boil potatoes in their skins in boiling salted water until tender.
To make the dressing, place vinegar, mustard and pepper in a small bowl and gradually whisk in olive oil until thick. Stir in herbs and pour into salad bowl. Drain potatoes, then peel and chop. While potatoes are still warm, toss in dressing. Do not chill. Serves 6–8.
AVOCADO SALAD
1 mignonette lettuce
1 avocado, peeled, stoned and sliced
Dressing
1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons olive oil
few poppy seeds
To make dressing, whisk vinegar, salt, pepper and oil together until well blended, then add poppy seeds. Pour dressing over lettuce and toss well. Add avocado and toss again gently, but avoid breaking avocado. Serves 4.
CURRIED POTATO SALAD
500 g (1 lb) small new potatoes
½ cup Vinaigrette Dressing
½ cup thick Mayonnaise
Curry mixture
1 golden shallot, or ½ small onion, sliced
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon curry powder
1 teaspoon paprika
2 teaspoons tomato paste
½ cup water
1 slice lemon
2 teaspoons apricot jam or redcurrant jelly
To make curry mixture, in a hot pan quickly soften shallot or onion in oil, then add curry powder and paprika and cook for 1 minute, stirring well. Add tomato paste mixed with water, lemon and jam or jelly. Cover and simmer for 7–10 minutes, then strain. Keep mixture in a small jar or covered container until wanted.
Boil potatoes in their skins. Drain, peel and toss them in vinaigrette dressing while still hot. Add enough curry mixture to flavour mayonnaise to taste. Put potatoes in a serving dish, and coat with mayonnaise. Serves 4.
POLISH POTATO SALAD
A lovely pinkish salad with horseradish.
750 g (1½ lb) new potatoes
2 tablespoons white wine
1 raw beetroot, peeled and finely grated
1 tablespoon grated horseradish
3 tablespoons Mayonnaise
pinch dry mustard
salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ cup plain yogurt
Cook potatoes in their skins until tender, then peel while still hot and sprinkle with white wine. Allow to cool. Mix beetroot with horseradish and add to mayonnaise. Mix mustard, salt and pepper into yogurt and add this to beetroot mixture. Spoon this dressing over the potatoes and serve. Serves 4–6.
RUSSIAN HAM SALAD
250 g (8 oz) cooked ham, thickly sliced and cubed
3 large potatoes, cooked, peeled and cubed
1 large crisp apple, cored and cubed
4 sticks celery, finely chopped
1 large dill pickle, or 4–5 gherkins, finely chopped
1 cup Mayonnaise
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
½ teaspoon dried tarragon
salt
1 small lettuce
slices cooked beetroot, cubes unpeeled apple and onion rings to garnish
Place ham, potatoes, apple, celery and pickle in a bowl. Mix mayonnaise with parsley and tarragon, add to bowl and toss lightly. Taste and season with salt as required. Line a serving bowl with lettuce leaves and spoon salad into the middle. Garnish with beetroot, apple and onion rings and chill until serving time. Serves 4–6.
GERMAN SALAD
A meal in itself, great for lunches and weekend suppers.
4 medium potatoes
2 Continental frankfurts
250 g (8 oz) Polish clobassi or kransky sausage
4 ripe tomatoes, peeled and cut into wedges
¼ small cabbage, finely shredded (about 2 cups)
Dressing
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
½ teaspoon sugar
pinch salt
pinch nutmeg
1 large clove garlic, crushed
1 tablespoon German or French mustard
4 tablespoons salad oil
1 tablespoon snipped chives
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
Boil potatoes in their skins. To make dressing, mix together vinegar, sugar, salt, nutmeg, garlic and mustard. Gradually beat in oil, then stir in chives and parsley. Drain potatoes and peel when cool enough to handle. Cut into cubes, place in a large bowl, and pour dressing over while they are still warm. Cover frankfurts and clobassi with cold water, bring to the boil and simmer for 3 minutes. Allow to cool in the water, then drain and skin. Cut frankfurts into diagonal slices and clobassi into bite-size cubes. Add frankfurts, clobassi, tomatoes and cabbage to bowl of potatoes, and mix lightly together with your hands. Taste and adjust seasoning. Serves 4.
GERMAN POTATO SALAD
For this salad, marinate the potato slices in boiling stock, then fold in the sour cream or mayonnaise before serving.
6 medium potatoes
1 onion, finely chopped
1¼ cups chicken stock
4 tablespoons white vinegar
5 tablespoons salad oil
2 teaspoons mustard
salt and freshly ground white pepper
½ cup sour cream
parsley or other fresh herbs to garnish
Boil potatoes in their skins until just tender. Drain. Peel potatoes while still hot and cut into slices. Place in a bowl with onion. Bring stock to the boil with vinegar, and while boiling pour over potatoes. Leave to marinate for about 20–30 minutes or until almost all liquid is absorbed. Pour off any excess liquid, then gently fold in oil mixed with mustard. Taste, and season with salt and pepper if necessary. Lastly, fold in sour cream. Serve at room temperature, garnished with parsley or other fresh herbs. Serves 6–8.
POTATO AND HAM SALAD
500 g (1 lb) new or waxy potatoes
6 sticks celery, cut into julienne (matchstick) strips
½ cup cream
salt and freshly ground white pepper
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 thick slice cooked ham, cut into thin strips
2 tablespoons chopped mixed fresh herbs (parsley, chives, mint, chervil)
Boil potatoes in their skins in salted water until just tender. Drain and, when cool, peel and cut into thick slices. Add celery. Whip cream until thick, season well with salt and pepper and stir in lemon juice. Add to potato and celery and mix gently but thoroughly. Arrange in a salad bowl. Sprinkle ham strips and herbs over salad. Chill until ready to serve. Serves 4.
RICE SALAD
Cooked rice, mixed with diced salad vegetables and pineapple, then tossed in a vinaigrette dressing. Serve with cold meats.
1 cup long-grain rice
90 g (3 oz) button mushrooms, sliced
1 cucumber, peeled, seeded and diced
6 crisp radishes, finely sliced
3 slices fresh or canned pineapple, diced
salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 ripe tomatoes, quartered, to garnish
Dressing
1 clove garlic, crushed
1 teaspoon dry mustard
½ teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons wine vinegar
6 tablespoons olive oil
½ cup finely chopped parsley
Cook the rice in plenty of boiling salted water for 15 minutes. Drain well. Toss hot rice in a bowl with remaining ingredients except tomatoes.
To make dressing, combine ingredients, pour over rice salad and mix together. Cover and chill until needed. At serving time, bring to room temperature, adjust seasoning, and garnish with tomatoes. Serves 4.
PERSIAN RICE SALAD
A rather different rice salad – well spiced, and dotted with fruits and nuts. Serve with roast lamb, kebabs or curries.
1¾ cups long-grain rice
2 slices fresh ginger, finely chopped
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon nutmeg
6 spring onions, finely chopped (including some green tops)
½ cup each raisins and sultanas, soaked in boiling water for 5 minutes and drained
1 tablespoon grated orange rind
6 ripe apricots, stoned and finely sliced
60 g (2 oz) toasted pine nuts
about ½ cup olive oil
salt and freshly ground black pepper
fresh or canned apricot halves and pine nuts to garnish
Cook the rice in plenty of boiling salted water for 15 minutes. Drain well. Place warm rice in a large bowl and add remaining ingredients, seasoning with salt and pepper. You need just enough oil to moisten rice without making it mushy, so add it gradually. Serve salad warm or at room temperature, garnished with apricot halves and pine nuts. Serves 6–8.
SPANISH SALAD
The best saffron comes from Spain. The Spaniards use it lavishly in their rice and seafood dishes, giving them superb flavour and colour.
1 cups long-grain rice
½ teaspoon saffron powder, or good pinch crumbled saffron
2 red peppers
½ cup each black and green olives, stoned
1 × 200 g can tuna, drained and flaked
250 g (8 oz) medium cooked prawns, shelled and de-veined
3 rashers bacon, rind removed, grilled until crisp and crumbled
salt and freshly ground black pepper
mignonette lettuce
Dressing
1 tablespoon lemon juice
4 tablespoons olive oil
salt and freshly ground black pepper
grated rind ½ lemon
1 clove garlic, crushed
1 tablespoon sliced fresh basil
Cook the rice in plenty of boiling salted water, with saffron, for 15 minutes. Drain. Char peppers all over under a preheated grill, place in a paper bag to steam for 10 minutes then rub off skins under cold running water. Remove skins, cores and seeds and cut into strips. Add to rice with olives, tuna, prawns and bacon. Season salad with salt and pepper while rice is still warm.
To make dressing, combine all ingredients in a screw-top jar and shake well. Pour over salad and toss. Serve cold on a bed of mignonette lettuce. Serves 4.
NOTE: Pots of fresh basil may be bought at many green-grocers during the summer months.
RICE, PRAWN AND ALMOND SALAD
½ cup long-grain rice
1 large onion, finely chopped
30 g (1 oz) butter
250 g (8 oz) prawns, cooked, shelled, de-veined and chopped
60 g (2 oz) almonds, blanched and shredded
½ cup Vinaigrette Dressing
Cook the rice in plenty of boiling salted water for 15 minutes. Drain well. Cook onion in butter until soft. Add to rice with prawns and almonds. Stir in dressing. Serve salad in a bowl or hors d’oeuvre dish. Serves 4.
ITALIAN RICE SALAD
½ cup long-grain rice
6–8 button mushrooms, quartered
2 tablespoons water
squeeze lemon juice
4 firm, ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded and cut into thin wedges
4–6 black olives, halved and stoned
salt and freshly ground black pepper
2–3 tablespoons Vinaigrette Dressing, made with dry white wine instead of vinegar
Cook the rice in plenty of boiling salted water for 15 minutes. Drain well and dry. Cook mushrooms in water with lemon juice for 2–3 minutes. Cook quickly, uncovered, so that liquid is well reduced by the time mushrooms are cooked; shake pan and stir well. Add mushrooms to rice with tomatoes and olives. Mix all ingredients with a fork, season well with salt and pepper and moisten with dressing. Serves 4.
PROVENÇAL SALAD
A richly flavoured salad combining the flavours and colours of the Mediterranean. French mustard with Provençal herbs gives the dressing an authentic flavour.
1 mignonette lettuce
4 hard-boiled eggs, quartered
1 × 200 g can tuna, drained and flaked
8 small new potatoes, cooked, peeled and sliced
1 green, yellow or red pepper, cored, seeded and sliced
2 tablespoons black olives, stoned
6 ripe egg tomatoes, or 4 ripe tomatoes, quartered
3 anchovy fillets, finely chopped
1 tablespoon grated Parmesan cheese
Dressing
1 tablespoon wine vinegar (preferably red)
3 tablespoons good olive oil
1 clove garlic, crushed
1 teaspoon mustard flavoured with Provençal herbs, or French mustard
1 sprig fresh thyme, finely chopped (if available)
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Make a bed of lettuce leaves in a salad bowl. On this, arrange hard-boiled eggs, tuna, potatoes, pepper, olives, tomatoes and anchovy fillets. Chill. Sprinkle with cheese.
To make dressing, shake ingredients in a screw-top jar until well combined. Spoon dressing over salad just before serving and toss at the table. Serves 4.
GREEN BEAN SALAD
Use tender, plump, stringless beans or snake beans for this salad. Serve as a first course or as an accompaniment to roasted or grilled meats.
750 g (1½ lb) young green beans
salt and freshly ground black pepper
2–3 tablespoons wine vinegar
½ teaspoon Dijon mustard
6–8 tablespoons olive oil
lettuce leaves
6–8 spring onions, shredded
2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley
Cook green beans in boiling salted water until they are barely tender. Meanwhile, beat together vinegar, mustard and oil and season with salt and pepper. Drain beans and toss immediately while still warm in dressing. Chill. When ready to serve, line a salad bowl or rectangular hors d’oeuvre dish with lettuce leaves. Add bean salad and sprinkle with spring onions and parsley. Serves 4–6.
BACON AND EGG LENTIL SALAD
A salad that’s a satisfying, total meal.
2 cups red or brown lentils
1 large onion, studded with 2 cloves
1 bay leaf
1 tablespoon salt
3 cloves garlic, bruised
1 strip orange rind
½ cup chopped parsley
1 cup finely chopped spring onions (including some green tops)
½ cup olive oil
1 teaspoon red wine vinegar
1 tablespoon lemon juice
freshly ground black pepper
2 rashers bacon, rind removed, grilled until crisp and crumbled
Garnish
2 hard-boiled eggs, finely chopped
¼ cup chopped parsley
12–15 black olives
Place lentils in a saucepan and cover with cold water. Bring slowly to the boil, then remove from heat, cover and stand for 1 hour. Drain and cover with fresh cold water to come 5 cm (2 in) above lentils. Add onion stuck with cloves, bay leaf, salt, garlic and orange rind. Bring to the boil, then cover and simmer for about 20–30 minutes or until lentils are just tender. Drain and cool. Remove flavouring ingredients and discard them. Put lentils into a bowl and toss gently with parsley, spring onions, oil, vinegar and lemon juice. Let stand, covered, for 1 hour. Taste and adjust seasoning if necessary. Cover and keep cool but not refrigerated until ready to serve. Toss bacon gently through lentils. Spoon salad into a serving dish and garnish with hard-boiled eggs, parsley and olives. Serves 8.
THREE-BEAN SALAD
1 cup dried red kidney beans
1 cup dried haricot beans
1 cup dried butter beans
6 cups chicken stock
3 bay leaves
3 sprigs parsley
1 onion, halved
3 whole cloves
18 black peppercorns
3 teaspoons salt
1 red pepper, cored, seeded and diced
6 spring onions, sliced
¾ cup Vinaigrette Dressing
chopped parsley to garnish
Soak kidney, haricot and butter beans separately overnight in water to cover. Next day drain and put in separate saucepans. Put 2 cups stock, 1 bay leaf, 1 parsley sprig, onion, 1 clove, 6 peppercorns and 1 teaspoon salt in each pan and bring to the boil.
Simmer until beans are tender, about 1¼ hours for kidney beans and 1½ hours for haricot and butter beans. Drain, removing seasonings, and chill. Then combine all beans, diced pepper and spring onions in a large serving bowl. Toss with vinaigrette dressing and sprinkle with chopped parsley. Serves 6–8.
BROCCOLI SALAD
This chilled salad may be part of a plate of hors d’oeuvre or a separate course. It will keep in the refrigerator, covered with plastic wrap, for a few days.
2–3 heads broccoli
salt
½ cup dry white wine
4 tablespoons olive oil
5 spring onions, chopped
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
2 cloves garlic, crushed
juice 2 lemons
2 teaspoons fresh thyme, or ½ teaspoon dried
1 tablespoon black peppercorns
Pull off leaves from broccoli, cut off tough base of stems, and pare stems with a vegetable peeler. Cook broccoli stems and florets in boiling salted water for 10 minutes. Rinse under cold water and drain. Cut into 5 cm (2 in) pieces. Put wine, oil, spring onions, parsley, garlic, lemon juice, thyme and peppercorns in a saucepan, cover and simmer for 20 minutes. Add broccoli and cook, uncovered, for 2 minutes more (broccoli should still be slightly crisp). Adjust seasoning and pour into a shallow dish. Serve at room temperature or slightly chilled. Serves 6.
EGGPLANT SALAD
Eggplants (aubergines) make a super salad, good with crusty Italian bread.
1 large or 2 medium eggplants
Dressing
2 cloves garlic, chopped
¼ cup red wine vinegar cup olive oil cup vegetable oil cup chopped fresh parsley
chopped fresh dill
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Garnish
½ red salad onion, chopped
1 small red pepper, cored, seeded and diced
Bake eggplant, wrapped in foil, in a preheated hot oven (200°C/400°F) for 40 minutes or until it is tender. Unwrap and let it cool on a wire rack. Peel and dice flesh, and arrange it in a serving dish.
To make dressing, in a food processor fitted with a steel blade or in a blender, purée garlic, vinegar, oils, parsley, dill, salt and pepper until smooth. Toss eggplant with dressing, and garnish salad with onion and red pepper. Chill salad, covered, for 2 hours, and serve with Italian bread. Serves 4–6.
COLESLAW WITH SOUR CREAM
½ medium cabbage, finely shredded
¼ cup Mayonnaise
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons chopped celery
dash Tabasco sauce
¾ cup sour cream
½ red pepper, cored, seeded and finely sliced
½ green pepper, cored, seeded and finely sliced
3–4 tablespoons finely chopped spring onions
Put cabbage in a large salad bowl. Combine remaining ingredients, pour over cabbage, toss thoroughly and chill well before serving. Serves 6.
WALDORF COLESLAW
1 small cabbage, shredded
4 spring onions, chopped (including some
green tops)
2 sticks celery, chopped
1 green pepper, cored, seeded and chopped
1 Granny Smith apple, cored and chopped
½ cup sultanas
½ cup Mayonnaise or sour cream
½ cup walnut pieces
Dressing
1 tablespoon wine vinegar
salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
2½ tablespoons oil
Put cabbage, spring onions, celery, green pepper and apple into salad bowl and add sultanas. Whisk together dressing ingredients. Add to bowl and mix lightly. Cover and refrigerate for 2–3 hours. At serving time, add mayonnaise or sour cream, sprinkle with walnuts and toss. Serves 8.
MIXED COLESLAW
¼ red cabbage, finely shredded
¼ white cabbage, finely shredded
½ red pepper, cored, seeded and finely sliced
½ bunch (about 10) radishes, sliced
½ cup Vinaigrette Dressing
chopped parsley to garnish
Bring a large saucepan of water to the boil and add red cabbage. Stir vigorously for 1 minute, then drain immediately in a colander. Rinse cabbage under cold running water to set colour and cool. Leave to drain, then pat red cabbage with cloth to dry. Put in a large salad bowl with white cabbage, red pepper and radishes. Toss well with dressing and sprinkle salad with parsley before serving. Serves 8.
VARIATION
CREAMY MIXED SLAW: Prepare as above, but add ½ cup sour cream or Mayonnaise with the dressing.
SALAD DRESSINGS
The sauce for a salad may be a simple dressing of oil and vinegar, a creamy, thick mayonnaise or one of the imaginative variations of these two great basics. Whether simple or intricate, all good dressings have one thing in common: they must be made with the freshest and choicest ingredients available.
Vinaigrette dressing (oil, lemon juice, vinegar, herbs) can be varied in a multitude of ways, by changing the herbs used, or using different oils and vinegars. And the best quality oil and vinegar you can afford, the freshest eggs you can find and garden herbs freshly picked will make a world of difference to the quality of the dressings you make.
Among the oils, there’s olive oil, a wide choice of nut oils (walnut, almond or peanut) or those made from seeds (sunflower, safflower or sesame) – all have their uses. Like wine, it’s worth shopping around for the one that really suits your palate.
Vinegars, too, should be explored. A harsh vinegar will still taste harsh in a dressing. Look for different flavours – tarragon, wine or cider.
A good dressing is one of the easiest ways to make food interesting. Remember, it is the actual flavour of the ingredients used which is important to the dressing – nothing else can give the same taste and appearance. So make sure everything you use is of the best quality and in the best condition possible.
Vinaigrette or French dressing: The most widely used dressing in the world is the basic oil-and-vinegar dressing of France – a mixture of good olive oil, wine vinegar, salt and freshly ground black pepper. Add a dollop of good prepared French mustard, if you like it, or a little hot powdered English mustard. Fresh herbs in season are added to suit the food the dressing is going to flavour and season. Garlic is used by those who like the flavour, and features in more robust salads. Be sure the salad greens are perfectly dry, so that the dressing will adhere to the leaves. It’s best added to green salad at the moment of eating.
The usual proportion of oil to vinegar is 3 parts to 1, but this can be varied to suit your own taste. Some salads call for a dressing where the oil is only lightly spiked with vinegar. If you find the 3 to 1 proportion too oily, add salt rather than increase the vinegar to cut the oiliness.
A squeeze of lemon juice is sometimes added at the last moment. Cider vinegar, red wine vinegar or any of the flavoured vinegars, such as tarragon, are excellent.
The choice of oil can vary. A good olive oil is the choice of many. Walnut oil has a distinctive taste and is good on tender green salads; it can also be used in combination with olive oil. The polyunsaturated oils are increasing in popularity, sunflower and safflower being the natural choices for those on low cholesterol diets.
See also Mayonnaise; Green Goddess Dressing.
VINAIGRETTE DRESSING
2 tablespoons good vinegar
¼ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon French mustard
freshly ground black pepper
6 tablespoons olive oil
pinch caster sugar (optional)
Put vinegar into a small bowl with salt, mustard and pepper. Mix well with a fork or birch whisk, then slowly add oil, beating until mixture thickens slightly. If dressing tastes sharp, add more oil or a pinch of caster sugar. If dressing is too oily for your taste, add more salt – this cuts oiliness. An alternative method is to combine all ingredients in a screw-top jar and shake well until mixture thickens. The main drawback to this method is the tendency to re-use the jar over and over. Makes about ¾ cup.
VARIATIONS
GARLIC VINAIGRETTE DRESSING: There are several ways to add garlic to your dressing. If you like a pungent dressing, crush 1–2 cloves garlic to a paste with salt, add vinegar, mustard and pepper and then oil. You can chop garlic and add it to the finished dressing for a more rustic salad. For a more delicate flavour, bruise 1 peeled garlic clove and steep in the vinegar for 1–2 hours. The vinegar brings out a more delicate flavour of the garlic, while oil brings out the strong flavour.
MUSTARD VINAIGRETTE DRESSING: Increase the amount of French mustard to taste, or add 1 teaspoon English mustard instead.
FRESH HERB VINAIGRETTE DRESSING: When adding herbs it is best to sprinkle half of the freshly chopped herbs over the salad, and add the remaining herbs to the dressing. Tarragon, basil, chives and parsley add their own distinctive flavours. They may be used separately or in combination; 1–2 tablespoons chopped fresh herbs is sufficient for this quantity of vinaigrette.
CHIFFONADE DRESSING: To ¾ cup Vinaigrette Dressing, add 2 hard-boiled eggs, finely chopped, and 1 tablespoon each finely chopped green olives, onion and parsley. Good on tart salads with chicory, curly endive, etc.
FINES HERBES VINAIGRETTE
1 tablespoon tarragon vinegar
¼ cup dry red wine
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon paprika
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh basil, marjoram or oregano
½ cup chopped parsley
2 cloves garlic, crushed
½ cup olive oil
Combine all ingredients and beat well with fork or whisk, or shake well in a screw-top jar. Use over salad greens or sliced tomatoes, or as a dressing for lightly cooked vegetables. Makes 1 cup.
GREEN MAYONNAISE
1 cup fresh watercress
2 leaves spinach
¼ cup fresh tarragon, chervil or parsley
1 teaspoon lemon juice
1 cup Mayonnaise
Simmer greens in unsalted water for 2 minutes. Drain and rinse in cold water. Press out water, then pound in mortar until greens are reduced to a pulp, or purée in blender. Add lemon juice and combine mixture with mayonnaise. Use with vegetable or fish salads. Makes 1½ cups.
YOGURT MAYONNAISE
This is sometimes referred to as eggless mayonnaise. It is the one to use when on a low cholesterol diet or dieting.
3 teaspoons Dijon mustard
1½ tablespoons olive oil
¾ cup low-fat plain yogurt
1 tablespoon lemon juice
salt and freshly ground white pepper
Place mustard in a mixing bowl. Add oil gradually, beating vigorously with a fork or whisk. Blend in yogurt. Add remaining ingredients until mixture is smooth. Refrigerate until required. Makes 1 cup.
SAUCE VERTE
This very green, herby sauce is a favourite in France and Italy. It is served with chilled seafood, hot boiled beef and some salads, or can be folded through 2 cups cooked rice to make an interesting rice salad.
1 cup parsley
1 tablespoon chopped onion
¼ cup capers
½ × 50 g can anchovy fillets, drained
1–2 cloves garlic
2 small sour gherkins
1 small boiled potato, or 1 slice white bread, softened in water and drained
½ cup olive oil
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon wine vinegar
Chop together very finely (or chop in blender or food processor fitted with steel blade) first parsley, then onion, capers, anchovies, garlic and gherkins. Add potato or bread and mix until a coarse, dry, green paste is formed. Place mixture in a bowl and work in just enough oil (about 1 teaspoon) to form a slightly thinner but smooth paste. Add salt and pepper. Continue to add the remaining oil slowly, mixing constantly until paste is of a smooth consistency. Add vinegar and mix thoroughly. Makes 1½ cups.
BUTTERMILK DRESSING
1 cup buttermilk
3 tablespoons lemon or lime juice
½ teaspoon Dijon mustard
½ teaspoon paprika
salt and freshly ground white pepper
pinch salt
Combine all ingredients in a screw-top jar and shake well. Good with egg and cheese salads. Makes about 1¼ cups.
SOUR CREAM AND HORSERADISH SAUCE
Serve with cold smoked fish, such as trout or salmon, or cold roast beef. Good also with fish moulds or loaves.
1 cup sour light cream or plain yogurt
6 spring onions, chopped
2 tablespoons grated horseradish
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Combine all ingredients in a bowl, mixing thoroughly. Makes 1½ cups.
OLD-FASHIONED COOKED SALAD DRESSING
Use this in the same way as Mayonnaise, and use the same variations.
1 tablespoon sugar
1½ tablespoons flour
1 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons dry mustard
2 egg yolks
60 g (2 oz) butter, melted
1½ cups milk cup vinegar
dash paprika (optional)
Combine dry ingredients in top of double saucepan or a heatproof bowl which will fit over a saucepan. Add egg yolks, butter and milk and blend well. Gradually stir in vinegar. Cook over simmering water, stirring constantly, until thick. Add paprika if desired. Makes about 2 cups.
SALMON
Fresh wild salmon is considered one of the great fish delicacies of the world; it is beautifully coloured, the pink flesh is both firm and succulent, the flavour unique, and it is rich in Omega-3 fatty acids, so good for our hearts.
Worldwide, salmon farming has expanded enormously over the past decade, with major producers in Norway, Scotland, Chile and Australia. Many consider wild salmon (not farmed) from the rivers of Scotland and Ireland the very best. Introduced into NSW in 1963, and transferred for aquaculture in Tasmania in the mid-1980s, fresh Atlantic salmon and ocean trout have become readily available at Australian fish markets. However, because salmon farming has been subject to broad and persistent attack by environmentalists, it is still best seen as a luxury, to keep farming less intensive and more environmental.
Atlantic salmon and ocean trout are reared in freshwater hatcheries for 9–12 months. They are pre-adapted to life in seawater and are transferred to net cages in the sea. The farm sites are generally in sheltered bays or estuaries around Tasmania.
Types of salmon:
Organic salmon: As the call for organic foods grows it is encouraging to find organic salmon is becoming available. Yarra Valley in Victoria, Australia, is one such supplier.
Fresh salmon and ocean trout: There is no substitute for fresh salmon cooked to perfection. It can be purchased whole, at a usual weight of 3–4 kg (6–8 lb), or ready cut into fillets or steaks (cutlets). A whole baked or poached salmon is a fitting dish to take the place of turkey or ham at the Christmas or celebration table. Salmon fillets, or steaks, too, are the epitome of luxury – delicious, yet easy to cook.
Canned salmon: Probably the most familiar type, and enormous amounts are processed every year. One of the most sought-after varieties is sockeye salmon, considered outstanding for canning because of its rich red, very firm flesh. Canned sockeye salmon is always marked as such on the label, whereas other varieties may only be described as either red or pink salmon.
Smoked salmon: A superb delicacy. Wafer-thin slices of smoked salmon may be served with lemon wedges and brown bread and butter, with cream cheese and bagels, or on rye bread with sour cream. Smoked salmon lends a touch of luxury to homely scrambled eggs, transforming them into a dish for princes – try it for a special brunch with fine champagne. Choose smoked salmon that has pale pink-gold flesh and is as fresh as possible. A dark red or deep orange colour usually means a dye or over-cured fish.
It may be bought freshly sliced from a whole side of salmon, or ready sliced, and vacuum-packed. Smoked salmon is also available canned or in pieces in jars.
Salmon trout are closely related to trout but feed in the sea and spawn in fresh water. They are found in northern Europe and combine the beautiful flavour and pink-coloured flesh of salmon with the texture of trout. They may be prepared and served in the same way as salmon.
Salmon roe eggs: The eggs are larger than lumpfish eggs; they are salted and are a bright orange colour.
Store in refrigerator once opened. Use in same ways as caviar – as an hors d’oeuvre. See Caviar.
POACHED SALMON
Probably the finest way to serve fresh salmon. May be served hot or cold.
1 × 1 kg (2 lb) salmon steak
4½ cups water
juice ½ lemon
1 cup white wine
1 teaspoon salt
6 black peppercorns
1 bouquet garni
Tie fish into shape carefully with white tape, but not tightly as the fish swells during cooking, or wrap in muslin. Place in a shallow flameproof dish. Combine remaining ingredients in a saucepan and bring to just below simmering point. Pour this court bouillon over fish and bring just to the boil. Reduce heat to low, cover dish and poach (the liquid should just shiver throughout cooking – do not let it boil or the delicate fish will spoil). Continue poaching for 20–30 minutes or until fish flakes easily when tested with a fine skewer. Drain fish, remove skin and serve with parsley, buttered new potatoes and Hollandaise Sauce. Serves 6–8.
NOTE: If fish is to be served cold, allow to cool in liquid before skinning. Serve with potato and cucumber salads and Mayonnaise or sour cream.
GRILLED SALMON STEAKS
4 salmon steaks, cut 2 cm (¾ in) thick
2 tablespoons ground black pepper
juice ½ lemon
60 g (2 oz) Maître d’Hôtel Butter
Put fish in a glass or earthenware dish. Combine remaining ingredients, except maître d’hôtel butter, and pour over fish. Leave to marinate for about 1 hour, turning steaks several times. Drain fish and place on oiled grill. Cook using a preheated grill for 5 minutes on each side and then a further 2 minutes on each side. Spread of maître d’hôtel butter on a warm dish – butter should soften, not melt. Remove skin and centre bone from steaks, arrange on prepared dish and place remaining butter on top of each steak. Serves 4.
BAKED ATLANTIC SALMON
Atlantic salmon and ocean trout are two great dishes worthy of a festive meal, especially Christmas dinner. Serve the salmon warm or at room temperature, with a home-made Mayonnaise or, in the mango season, Mango and Mint Sauce. Complete the meal with boiled new potatoes and a green salad.
3 kg (6 lb) whole fresh Atlantic salmon or ocean trout, organic for preference
few lemon slices
1 teaspoon sea salt
Lay a piece of aluminium foil on a baking dish that will accommodate the fish, and sprinkle with half the sea salt. Arrange the whole fish on top and place a few lemon slices in the cavity. Sprinkle fish with remaining salt. Cover with another sheet of aluminium foil and wrap up loosely. Bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F), for 35–40 minutes, until the eyes have turned white and a skewer inserted into the thickest part feels warm when tested on your lip. Leave to cool, still covered with foil, for 15 minutes.
Remove skin while fish is still warm. Make a shallow cut around the top of the tail section, along the back of the fish and across the start of the head section. Carefully pull away the skin, then rather than turn fish, pull skin on the other side from underneath. When fish has cooled transfer to a long platter, draining off any juice. Garnish with sprigs of mint and strips of lime rind and offer with the mayonnaise or mango and mint sauce. To serve, lift serving-sized pieces carefully from the bone on each side of the length from the head down to the backbone. When all of the first side is served, turn the fish to repeat with other side. Serves 8.
SMOKED SALMON OPEN SANDWICHES
sprigs fresh dill, cress or lettuce leaves
2 slices rye or black bread
butter
4–6 slices smoked salmon
2 slices lemon to garnish
2 tablespoons sour cream
Place chilled dill, cress or lettuce on buttered rye or black bread. Fold slices smoked salmon and place on top. Garnish with lemon slices and top with sour cream. Serves 1–2.
ROASTED SALMON SALAD WITH BASIL AÏOLI
Use organic salmon or ocean trout fillets for preference. Fillets tend to be more melt-in-the-mouth than the steaks or cutlets.
4 × 250 g (8 oz) salmon fillets or steaks, skin left on
4 fresh bay leaves
2–4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
sea salt and freshly ground pepper
2 cups baby rocket leaves or watercress sprigs
250 g (8 oz) baby spinach leaves
4 firm tomatoes, peeled, seeded and cut into julienne (matchstick) strips
1–2 tablespoons lemon juice
Basil aïoli
2 cloves garlic
½ teaspoon salt
6 spring onions, chopped (including some green)
¼ cup freshly chopped basil leaves
1 egg
2 tablespoons lemon juice
1 cup olive oil
Using a sharp knife, make a small cut just under the skin of each salmon fillet or steak and insert a bay leaf. Place the salmon, skin side up, on a lightly oiled baking tray. Brush the salmon with the olive oil and season to taste with salt and pepper. Roast in a preheated slow oven (120°C/300°F) for 15 minutes. Remove from the oven and lay a sheet of aluminium foil on top. Allow to rest for 5–10 minutes. Toss the salad leaves with the tomato juliennes, adding the lemon juice and just enough extra virgin olive oil to coat, without being drenched. Remove skin from salmon if liked. Arrange the mixed leaves on serving plates, place salmon on top with spoonful of basil aïoli and serve at once. Serves 4.
To make basil aïoli, crush the garlic to a paste with the salt. Place the spring onions, basil, egg, lemon juice and garlic in a food processor or blender and process with an on/off action until the basil mixture is finely blended. With the motor running add the oil in a slow stream and blend well until thick. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
SCRAMBLED EGG WITH SMOKED SALMON
For a special brunch serve this elegant dish with hot toast and champagne.
6 eggs
salt and freshly ground black pepper
60 g (2 oz) butter
125 g (4 oz) smoked salmon, flaked
3 tablespoons cream
¼ cup Mayonnaise or thick cream
2 teaspoons snipped fresh dill
4 slices smoked salmon
sprigs fresh dill to garnish
Beat eggs and season with salt and pepper. Cook gently in butter, stirring, until set. Fold in flaked smoked salmon and cream. Allow to cool a little. Serve piled on a dish, with mayonnaise or thick cream spooned over and sprinkled with snipped dill. Fold slices of smoked salmon and garnish dish with these and sprigs of fresh dill. Serves 4.
SALMON AND POTATO BAKE
A lunch or supper dish. Serve with green salad.
60 g (2 oz) butter
3 tablespoons flour
½ teaspoon salt
freshly ground black pepper
2 cups milk
1 × 440 g can salmon, drained
4 cups sliced cooked potatoes
½ cup Mayonnaise
1 cup grated Cheddar cheese
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
½ teaspoon French mustard
paprika
Melt butter in a saucepan and blend in flour, salt and pepper. Gradually add milk off heat, then cook, stirring constantly, until thickened. Remove any bones and skin from salmon and flake. Stir into sauce. Arrange in alternate layers with potatoes in a shallow ovenproof dish. Combine mayonnaise, ½ cup cheese, Worcestershire sauce and mustard. Spread over salmon mixture. Top with remaining grated cheese and sprinkle with paprika. Bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for about 30 minutes. Serves 4.
SMOKED SALMON WITH CUCUMBER
½ cup sour cream
2 tablespoons cider vinegar
1 tablespoon snipped chives
½ teaspoon snipped fresh dill
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 medium cucumbers, peeled and finely sliced
6 slices pumpernickel bread
butter
125 g (4 oz) smoked salmon, sliced
Mix sour cream, vinegar, chives, dill, salt and pepper. Pour over cucumbers and mix. Cover and chill for 2–3 hours. Spread pumpernickel with butter and put a slice of smoked salmon on each piece. Top with cucumber mixture and serve as an appetiser. Serves 6.
SALMON CAKES
2 cups mashed potatoes
60 g (2 oz) butter
1 tablespoon finely chopped onion or chives
1 × 220 g can salmon or tuna, drained
1 teaspoon lemon juice
salt and freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup flour
1 egg, beaten
½ cup dry breadcrumbs
oil or butter for frying
Beat mashed potatoes with butter and onion. Remove any bones and skin from fish and flake. Combine with potatoes and lemon juice, and season with salt and pepper. Form into 6 small cakes. Dip in flour, then egg, then breadcrumbs. Fry in a little oil or butter until nicely browned. Serve with Sauce Tartare. Serves 4.
SALMON PUFFS
1 × 440 g can salmon, drained
½ cup fresh breadcrumbs
2 tablespoons grated onion
1 tablespoon lemon juice
30 g (1 oz) butter, melted
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 egg
½ cup milk
sour cream
snipped chives
Remove any bones and skin from fish and flake. Combine salmon, breadcrumbs, onion, lemon juice, butter, salt and pepper. Beat egg and add milk. Stir into salmon mixture. Place in 4–6 well-greased individual ramekin dishes. Set dishes in a baking tin with water to come halfway up the sides and bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for about 45 minutes or until set and golden. Top each with a spoonful of sour cream and sprinkle with snipped chives. Serves 4.
SALMON SOUFFLÉ
1 × 220 g can salmon
milk
60 g (2 oz) butter
¼ cup flour
¼ teaspoon dry mustard
salt
cayenne
6 eggs, separated
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
Drain salmon, reserving liquid. Remove any bones and skin from fish and flake. Add enough milk to reserved liquid to make 1 cup. Melt butter in a saucepan and blend in flour, mustard, salt and cayenne. Gradually add milk mixture and cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until it boils and thickens. Beat egg yolks until pale and thick. Stir a little of the hot sauce into yolks, then add to remaining sauce in pan. Remove from heat. Fold in salmon and parsley. Beat egg whites until they hold soft peaks. Stir 1 tablespoonful of egg whites into salmon mixture, then gently and quickly fold in remaining whites. Pour into a well-greased 6-cup soufflé dish (see Soufflé for preparation of dish). Bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for 45 minutes or until firm. Serve immediately. Serves 4.
ITALIAN SALMON SALAD
150 g pasta bows
1 × 220 g can salmon, drained and flaked
1 red pepper, cored, seeded and diced
½ cucumber, finely diced
10 black olives, stoned
½ cup Vinaigrette Dressing
watercress to garnish
Cook pasta in boiling water until al dente, or just tender. Drain thoroughly and leave to cool. Mix flaked salmon with the pepper, cucumber, olives and pasta. Pour over the dressing and toss lightly. Arrange in a serving dish and garnish with sprigs of watercress. Serves 4.
SALMON KEDGEREE
1 cup raw rice
1 × 440 g can salmon
60 g (2 oz) butter
2 hard-boiled eggs, finely chopped
2–3 tablespoons cream
salt and freshly ground black pepper
pinch cayenne
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
Cook rice in boiling salted water until tender. Drain well. Keep hot over boiling water or in a slow oven. Remove bones and skin from salmon and flake gently. Melt butter in a saucepan, add salmon, eggs, cream, salt and pepper and stir until hot. Combine fish mixture with hot rice and add parsley. Turn into a serving dish and serve. Serves 5–6.
SMOKED SALMON AND DILL DIP
250 g (8 oz) cream cheese, softened cup sour light cream
2 tablespoons lemon juice
1 tablespoon grated horseradish
90 g (3 oz) smoked salmon, finely chopped
1 tablespoon snipped fresh dill, or 1 tablespoon chopped parsley mixed with ½ teaspoon dill seeds
salt and freshly ground black pepper
cayenne
sprigs fresh dill or parsley to garnish
Stir cream cheese with a wooden spoon until smooth, then stir in sour cream, lemon juice and horseradish and combine thoroughly. Fold in smoked salmon, dill, salt, pepper and cayenne. Spoon into a serving bowl and garnish with sprigs of dill or parsley. Makes about 1½ cups.
SALSIFY
A white-skinned root vegetable, sometimes called oyster plant because its flavour is akin to that of oysters.
Basic preparation: Wash the roots, then thinly peel; drop them into a bowl of acidulated water to prevent discolouration.
Salsify may be served in white or cream sauce, or tossed in butter and parsley, or fried in a light batter, but the vegetable must be pre-cooked before proceeding with any of these preparations.
To pre-cook: Simply drop the prepared vegetable, cut into lengths of about 5 cm (2 in), into boiling salted water and cook for 20–25 minutes. Drain, then finish as desired.
Scorzonera (Black Salsify) has a brownish-black skin; otherwise, it closely resembles salsify in flavour and texture. Prepare and use it in the same way as white-skinned salsify.
BUTTERED SALSIFY
1 kg (2 lb) salsify roots
60 g (2 oz) butter
salt and freshly ground black pepper
finely chopped parsley
Prepare salsify as described above, and pre-cook in boiling salted water. Drain. Heat butter in frying pan and cook salsify for about 10 minutes, turning often, until golden. Season with salt and pepper and toss with chopped parsley. Serves 6.
SALT
Salt for the table, an almost pure form of sodium chloride, has since ancient times been a valuable commodity to man. It imparts flavour to food and is indispensable in cooking. Our bodies need salt to survive. There are two types of salt: rock (or mined) salt and sea salt (called solar salt). Seasoned salts such as celery salt or vegetable salt are simply a blend of salt with herbs or spices.
Types of salt:
Rock salt: Rock salt is mined from where it occurs in layers from the evaporation of land-locked seas of past geological ages. Untreated rock salt is said to have the best flavour of all salts. Most cooking or kitchen salt is finely ground refined rock salt with magnesium carbonate added to make it free-running. Rock salt is also used for pickling salt, which has no additives, and iodised salt, with iodine added, as the name suggests, for its health benefits.
Sea salt: Sea salt is obtained from seawater, either by direct evaporation or by the factory-finishing of saline concentrations from seawater pans. Sea salt is evaporated slowly by the sun, consists of large, irregular crystals and is best used as a topping to a dish or offered at the table in a salt dish. It is a waste to use the delicate crystals in cooking, when their delightful crunch is lost. Look for kosher salt to use for sauces, in soups and stocks and in seasoning liquid mixtures.
Gourmet salts: There is a growing number of ‘boutique’ salts available; all are best used where their contrasting textures contribute to overall flavour. The varying sizes and shapes of the crystals depend on how their brines were evaporated.
Fleur de sel: This comes from the French Atlantic coast and is regarded by many as the world’s finest salt, being texturally superior to most. When sun and wind conditions are ideal, fleur de sel, ‘flower of salt’, blossoms on the surface of the solar evaporation ponds. Its crystals have unique shapes because they can grow only downwards from the surface of the ponds.
Maldon sea salt: The coastal town of Maldon, Essex, England, has been a salt-producing centre since the Middle Ages. In fact, legend has it that the secret of salt-making from seawater was discovered there almost 2000 years ago, when the Romans ruled Britain. Maldon sea salt is considered to be one of the finest English sea salts. It has a powerful flavour and the pyramid-shaped crystals give a wonderful crunch and sparkle to food.
Australian Murray River salt flakes: These pale, apricot-coloured salt flakes are a favourite with gourmets. Salinity is a major and growing problem in Australia and an area of particular concern is the Murray Darling Basin. Support for this salt helps towards stimulating the removal of salt from this sensitive area and assists in solving the inland salinity problem. Various other natural sea salt crystals are available, including Southern Ocean salt from the Great Australian Bight.
SAMBAL
See Curry.
SAMOOSAS (SAMOSAS)
These Indian savouries are semi-circular pastries filled with minced lamb, subtly flavoured with spices and herbs. They are deep-fried until golden and crisp and are wonderful with pre-dinner drinks.
SAMOOSAS
Pastry
1 cup flour
½ teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon ghee or butter
3–4 tablespoons lukewarm water
milk
oil for deep-frying
Filling
1 tablespoon ghee or oil
2.5 cm (1 in) piece fresh ginger, grated
2 onions, chopped
2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint
2 teaspoons curry paste or powder
1 teaspoon salt
250 g (8 oz) minced lamb
½ teaspoon saffron, crumbled
1 cup hot water
1 tomato, peeled and chopped
juice ½ lemon
½ teaspoon Garam Masala
To make pastry, sift flour and salt into a bowl. Rub in ghee or butter with fingertips. Add water and knead to form a stiff dough. Cover bowl with a cloth and allow to stand while preparing filling.
To make filling, heat ghee or oil and gently fry ginger, half the onions and the mint until onions are soft and golden. Stir in curry paste or powder and salt and fry for 2–3 minutes. Add lamb and cook for 5 minutes, stirring frequently. Meanwhile, soak saffron in hot water. When a golden colour, stir water and saffron into meat mixture with tomato. Bring to the boil, then turn heat very low and cook, uncovered, for 30–40 minutes, stirring occasionally, until meat is tender and moisture evaporated. Add lemon juice and garam masala. Allow to cool then mix in remaining onions.
Divide dough into 14–16 even-size pieces. Shape each into a ball and roll out on a lightly floured board as thinly as possible, keeping the shape round. Cut each round in half and moisten edges with milk. Place a small spoonful of filling on one side of each half-round and fold other side over. Press edges together and trim with a fluted cutter if liked. Heat oil in a heavy pan and deep-fry samoosas, a few at a time, until golden-brown. Drain on crumpled paper towels. Serve hot. A bowl of mint or coriander chutney may be offered for dipping. Makes about 30.
SANDWICHES
Some sandwiches are famous – the hero, the shooter’s sandwich, the club sandwich, the thin, perfect, cucumber sandwiches of English tea tables – and there are many others that make a satisfying, nourishing light meal. Some are designed for rugged appetites; and at the other extreme, Mrs Beeton gave instructions for making small tea sandwiches to be eaten with gloved fingers! In between, there are hundreds of good ways to combine fillings and toppings with one or another of the bread family.
To keep fresh: Sandwiches will keep in excellent condition for up to 24 hours if wrapped in the following way: stack them 3–4 at a time, place a lettuce leaf on top and wrap closely in plastic wrap. Wrap packages in a damp tea-towel, then slip the whole parcel into a plastic bag and close tightly. Store in the refrigerator or in a cool place. Leave sandwiches whole and crusts on, and trim and cut up just before serving.
To freeze: Sandwiches may be frozen for 1–2 weeks but great care must be taken to prevent sogginess or drying out. Fillings that are rather high in fat, such as cheese, canned fish or meat, work best. Do not include mayonnaise, cooked egg whites, jellies, fresh fruits or vegetables with a high water content such as cucumber, lettuce, celery, tomato, apple, banana or pineapple.
Have butter soft at room temperature. Butter the bread liberally, being sure to go right to the edges, make sandwiches and wrap closely in plastic wrap, 3–4 sandwiches at a time or in quantities required for school lunches, etc. An extra slice or crust of bread at each end of the package will help prevent drying out. Leave crusts on and sandwiches whole, if possible, or in large pieces. Over-wrap in foil or plastic.
Thaw in wrappings for about 2–3 hours; an inner parcel may be taken frozen in a lunch-box.
See also Danish Open Sandwiches.
PARTY SANDWICHES
Ribbon sandwiches: Make these with three layers of buttered bread (the middle slice buttered on both sides) with filling in between. Alternate white and brown bread, if you wish. Some good combinations:
• Sardine mashed with a little chopped parsley and lemon juice on one layer, cream cheese with chopped chives or spring onions on the other.
• Thin cucumber slices on one layer, peanut butter or cream cheese on the other.
• Grated cheese or cottage cheese on one layer, cream cheese mixed with chopped celery and walnuts on the other.
• Finely chopped smoked salmon or drained, canned salmon seasoned well with black pepper on one layer, cream cheese and chopped capers on the other.
Pinwheel sandwiches: Cut the crusts from an unsliced sandwich loaf and cut loaf lengthways into slices. Butter, then spread with any desired filling and roll up each slice from end to end. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap and leave for at least 1 hour. Slice across to serve.
Rolled sandwiches: Remove crusts from fresh sliced white or brown bread and roll lightly with a rolling pin. Butter right to edge and spread with cream cheese, mayonnaise or a home-made spread, or cover with a thin slice of ham, salami or cheese. Place a thin stick of celery, dill pickle, cucumber or an asparagus spear on one edge and roll up, pressing lightly to seal. Lay sandwiches, seam side down, close together on plastic wrap and wrap tightly. Leave for at least 1 hour before using.
LUNCH-BOX SANDWICHES
These fillings make nourishing sandwiches that carry well. Make with your favourite type of bread.
• Finely chopped green pepper and radish, or grated carrot and bean sprouts on wholemeal bread spread with devilled ham and mayonnaise.
• Raisins, dates or mixed dried fruits, sprinkled with a little mixed spice and a few drops of lemon juice, on wholemeal bread spread with cream cheese.
• Hummus, bean sprouts and thinly sliced cucumber, on wholemeal bread or spread thickly inside pita bread. Finely chopped shallots or spring onions, celery or pepper, or grated raw beetroot or carrot can be added.
• Well-drained, flaked tuna mixed with finely chopped shallot, celery and green pepper, a little chopped mango chutney, a dash of soy sauce and enough mayonnaise to bind.
• Drained, mashed baked beans mixed with crumbled crisp-fried bacon. Spread on wholemeal or rye bread, spread with mayonnaise. Thinly sliced cheese may be added.
• Peanut butter and thinly sliced cucumber (leave the skin on for extra crunch).
• Peanut butter, grated carrot and raisins.
• Diced cooked ham or chicken (or both) mixed with mayonnaise, chopped tomato, radish and shallot or spring onion.
• Hard-boiled egg, chopped and bound with cream cheese thinned with cream or mayonnaise, and seasoned with salt, pepper and paprika.
• Devilled egg: mix 2 chopped hard-boiled eggs with 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce, ¼ teaspoon French mustard, 1 teaspoon chutney, 1. 2 teaspoon curry powder, salt, cayenne and 1 tablespoon melted butter. Layer with lettuce on brown bread.
• Cream cheese, chopped almonds and bean sprouts.
• Cream cheese, marmalade, raisins and chopped peanuts.
• Cottage cheese, chopped chives and bean sprouts or shredded spinach leaves.
• Cream cheese, grated orange rind and walnut pieces.
• Sliced corned beef (which may be canned) on sweet and sour or rye bread, which has been spread with a mixture of softened cream cheese, a little Dijon-style mustard and bottled horseradish to taste. Pack a few dill pickles with the sandwich.
• Shredded cabbage and grated carrot, chopped spring onions and bean sprouts, seasoned with salt and pepper and bound with mayonnaise. Nice on caraway-seed rye bread.
• Cold cooked or canned fish (or fish fingers), flaked and mixed with a little chopped spring onion, celery and cucumber, and bound with sauce tartare. Use brown bread for this.
• Liverwurst mixed with a little grated nutmeg, a spoonful of mayonnaise and chopped chives and parsley, layered with lettuce in white bread.
FILLED ROLLS FOR PICNICS OR LUNCH-BOXES
Use crusty or soft rolls, long or round. Split, pull out some of the crumb if you wish, butter and fill generously. Some especially successful ideas:
• A cold sausage or hamburger (better still if it’s put in while hot so that the juices flavour the bread). Add crisp fried or raw onion, fresh herbs, mustard, tomato sauce or chutney.
• Finely chopped tomato, onion, zucchini, cucumber and mint or basil, seasoned with salt and pepper and drained in a sieve before filling the roll.
• Liverwurst, crisp-cooked crumbled bacon, chopped tomato, lettuce and thinly sliced cucumber.
• Feta cheese, sliced olives, chopped tomato and bean sprouts.
• Drained canned flaked tuna, sliced hard-boiled egg, chopped spring onions, bean sprouts and mayonnaise.
• Corned beef and well-drained coleslaw.
• Potato salad and ham, bacon or salami.
• Don’t butter the roll but sprinkle the inside with olive oil and spread with tomato paste. Fill with grated cheese mixed with two or three of the following: chopped spring onions, chopped green pepper, mashed anchovies, strips of ham or salami, drained tuna, sliced olives, capers, sliced mushrooms, fresh chopped herbs or dried herbs re-chopped with parsley. If desired, wrap in foil and heat before taking on a picnic.
PITA SANDWICHES
Pita or pocket bread with a generous filling makes an excellent portable meal. Use any combination of meat, cheese, fish or vegetables, such as the following:
• Tabouleh with sliced roast beef or lamb, tomatoes and shredded lettuce.
• Sliced cooked chicken with mayonnaise, chopped celery and spring onions, cooked peas and diced, cooked carrot.
• Garbanzo Spread with sliced cucumber and tomato.
NOTE: Pita bread is available from delicatessens and some supermarkets.
Home-made sandwich spreads and fillings
These nutritious spreads are good on bread or crisp-bread.
SAVOURY TOMATO SPREAD
Lovely alone or with chicken, cold meat or fish fillings.
1 onion, finely chopped
1 tablespoon butter
3 tomatoes, peeled and chopped
2 tablespoons grated cheese
2 teaspoons chopped mixed fresh thyme, sage and marjoram, or ½ teaspoon dried mixed herbs with 2 teaspoons chopped parsley
about ½ cup fresh breadcrumbs
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Gently fry onion in butter until soft. Add tomatoes and cook until thick. Stir in cheese and herbs and remove from heat. Add enough breadcrumbs to give a spreading consistency and season with salt and pepper. Store, covered, in refrigerator. Keeps for 7–10 days. Makes about 1½ cups.
PIQUANT SARDINE SPREAD
Good with thinly sliced cucumber.
1 × 105 g can sardines, drained and mashed
2 spring onions, finely chopped
5 tablespoons Mayonnaise
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
½ teaspoon curry powder
2 hard-boiled eggs, finely chopped
1 tablespoon lemon juice
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Mix all ingredients together well. Store, covered, in refrigerator. Keeps 4–5 days. Makes about 1 cup.
PEANUT BUTTER, BACON AND CARROT SPREAD
Layer in sandwiches with paper-thin, well-drained tomato slices and lettuce leaves.
½ cup peanut butter
½ cup grated carrot
2 rashers bacon, rind removed, grilled until crisp and crumbled
about 2 tablespoons Mayonnaise
Mix peanut butter, carrot and bacon until well blended and add enough mayonnaise to give a spreading consistency. Store, covered, in refrigerator. Keeps 1 week. Makes about 1¼ cups.
APRICOT AND NUT SPREAD
Use dark bread or raisin bread spread with butter or cream cheese.
¾ cup diced dried apricots
¼ cup firmly packed brown sugar
½ cup orange juice
½ cup finely chopped almonds, walnuts or peanuts
2 tablespoons currants
Simmer apricots with brown sugar and orange juice for about 35 minutes or until mixture is soft and liquid has evaporated. Watch carefully and stir often to ensure that the mixture does not scorch. Remove from heat and mash with a fork, then stir in nuts and currants. Store, covered, in refrigerator. Keeps several weeks. Makes about 1 cup.
Hearty sandwiches
Great sandwiches for substantial snacking or meals on the run.
THE REUBEN
The name tells us that we owe the Reuben to the traditions of Jewish cookery. Anyone who knows New York’s wonderful delicatessens will remember hot sandwiches like this.
1 large, thick slice rye bread
1 tablespoon Thousand Island Dressing
sauerkraut, rinsed in cold water and squeezed dry
2 thin slices corned beef
1 slice Swiss cheese
Toast bread on one side, then spread other side with dressing. Cover with a generous layer of sauerkraut and top with corned beef then with cheese. Grill under a preheated grill until filling is heated through and cheese melted. Serves 1.
OMELETTE IN A ROLL
This makes wonderful cocktail food, too, cut across into slices. Flavour the omelette well, turn straight into the roll while hot and eat warm or cool.
1 oval-shaped soft bread roll, plain or wholemeal
butter
Omelette
2 eggs
3 teaspoons water
½ teaspoon salt
freshly ground black pepper
flavouring (see below)
2 teaspoons butter
Slice top from roll, pull out most of the crumb, and butter inside of shell.
To make omelette, beat eggs, water, salt and pepper lightly together with a fork. Stir in chosen flavouring. Heat butter in an omelette pan or small frying pan and when foam has subsided, pour in egg mixture. Cook over fairly high heat, pulling mixture from edges towards centre with a fork or spatula, so that uncooked mixture runs underneath. When omelette is set underneath but top is still quite moist remove from heat. Flip over one-third of omelette towards centre, then turn over again so that it is folded in 3. Roll out onto bread shell, put lid on and wrap tightly in plastic wrap or foil. Leave for at least 1 hour before eating. Rolls can be refrigerated if you want to leave them overnight, but bring back to room temperature or warm gently in oven before eating. Serves 1.
To make flavouring, choose from: 1 tablespoon chopped mixed fresh herbs or 1 teaspoon mixed dried herbs chopped with 1 tablespoon parsley; 2 tablespoons grated well-flavoured cheese mixed with 2 teaspoons flaked crab, salmon or smoked fish; 1 spring onion, chopped, with a grating of cheese; 2 tablespoons finely chopped cooked ham with 1 shallot, chopped, and a little chutney.
CLUB SANDWICH
An American creation, it became a favoured light meal or hearty snack.
3 slices white bread
butter
Mayonnaise
4 thin slices cooked chicken breast
salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 thin slices firm, ripe tomato
3 rashers bacon, rind removed, fried crisp
stuffed olive to garnish
dill pickles to serve
Toast bread on both sides. Spread one side of each slice with butter and mayonnaise. Cover one slice with chicken, season with salt and pepper and top with second slice of toast, buttered side up. Cover with tomato and bacon, season and place third slice of toast on top, buttered side down. Cut diagonally in half and garnish with an olive secured with a toothpick. Serve with a few dill pickles. Serves 1.
SHOOTER’S SANDWICH
As the name implies, nourishment for times spent in the woods.
1 long loaf crusty bread, such as Italian bread
1 thick rump steak, about 300 g (10 oz)
salt and freshly ground black pepper
English or French mustard
2–3 dill pickles, thinly sliced
Cut loaf in half lengthways and remove some of the crumb. Grill steak until medium-rare. Slice across thinly and pile, while hot, into bottom of loaf. Drizzle over any juices that have escaped while slicing. Season with salt, pepper and mustard, and top with sliced dill pickle. Put top of loaf on and tie with string. Wrap tightly in foil or plastic wrap and put a heavy weight on top. Leave for about 6 hours. Cut across into thick slices to serve. Serves 4.
THE HERO
A substantial snack for any hero bent on conquest.
2 crusty bread sticks (small baguettes)
butter
4–6 lettuce leaves
185 g (6 oz) cooked ham, thinly sliced
60 g (2 oz) Gruyère, Jarlsberg or other cheese, thinly sliced
2 firm, ripe tomatoes
2 thin slices onion, separated into rings
salt and freshly ground black pepper
sliced stuffed olives or dill pickles (optional)
Cut bread sticks in half lengthways, pull out some of the crumb and butter insides. Fill with layers of lettuce, ham, cheese, tomatoes and onion rings. Season with salt and pepper and add sliced stuffed olives or dill pickles, if desired. Place tops on and tie ends and middles with string. Wrap tightly in foil or plastic wrap and leave for 1 hour or longer. Cut across into slices to serve. Serves 4–6.
AN ENGLISHMAN’S BACON SANDWICH
English aficionados of the bacon sandwich have it this way.
3–4 rashers bacon, rind removed
2 slices white bread
butter
HP sauce
Fry bacon until crisp and drain on a paper towel. Butter the bread. Pile bacon on one slice, sprinkle liberally with HP sauce and top with second slice of bread. Serve immediately. Serves 1.
THE SUBMARINE (POOR BOY)
The submarine, or poor boy, is a close relation of the hero. It can be hot or cold.
1 long French loaf, or 2 small Italian loaves or bread sticks
¼ cup olive oil
185 g (6 oz) Swiss or other cheese, thinly sliced
4 firm, ripe tomatoes, thinly sliced
185 g (6 oz) salami, thinly sliced
1 × 50 g can anchovy fillets, drained and halved lengthways
2–3 canned pimientos, drained and halved or quartered
freshly ground black pepper
chopped parsley
green or black olives to garnish
Cut loaf or loaves in half lengthways and remove some of the crumb. Brush insides of bread with oil. Place cheese slices, overlapping, on one half of the bread, and top with overlapping slices of tomato then salami. Arrange anchovies and pimientos alternately on top, grind a little black pepper over and sprinkle generously with parsley. Put other half of loaf on top, tie at intervals with string and wrap tightly in foil. Place in refrigerator with a weight on top and leave for several hours, or overnight. To serve cold, unwrap and cut across in thick slices. To serve hot, place the wrapped bread in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for 15 minutes. Unwrap and cut across in thick slices. Serve garnished with olives. Serves 4–6.
NOTE: The submarine may also be served open-faced. Divide the filling evenly between top and bottom halves of bread, making the final topping cheese. Place under a preheated grill until cheese is bubbling.
VARIATIONS
ROAST BEEF SUBMARINE: Follow recipe for The Submarine, but spread bread with butter instead of olive oil and fill with layers of thinly sliced roast beef and tomatoes or mushrooms. Season with salt, pepper and Dijon mustard. For a hot sandwich, you might smear the beef with leftover gravy.
CHICKEN SUBMARINE: Follow recipe for The Submarine, but spread bread with mayonnaise instead of olive oil and fill with layers of thinly sliced cooked chicken, tomatoes, green pepper, celery, coleslaw or other vegetables. Season with salt and pepper.
HAM AND PINEAPPLE SUBMARINE: Follow recipe for The Submarine, but spread bread with butter and a little mustard instead of olive oil and fill with layers of thinly sliced cooked ham and pineapple sprinkled with chopped green pepper, toasted almonds and spring onions.
THE BLT (BACON, LETTUCE AND TOMATO SANDWICH)
A great American favourite.
3–4 rashers bacon, rind removed
2 slices white bread
2 teaspoons Mayonnaise
4 large slices tomato
salt
1 crisp lettuce leaf
Fry bacon until crisp and drain on a paper towel. Toast bread and spread each slice with mayonnaise. Pile tomatoes on one slice, sprinkle with salt and top with bacon, lettuce and second slice of toast, mayonnaise side down. Serve immediately. Serves 1.
STEAK SANDWICH
A minute steak is a small steak cut thinly for quick cooking. A cube steak is a small, thin steak which has been tenderised by breaking some of the meat fibres under pressure. Cube steak has a waffle-like surface.
1 onion, thinly sliced
1 tablespoon oil
1 minute or cube steak
2 slices white or wholemeal bread
butter
salt and freshly ground black pepper
dash Worcestershire sauce
Fry onion in oil until lightly browned. Remove onion with a slotted spoon and keep warm. Heat pan until oil begins to give off a slight haze, then add steak and brown for about 2 minutes on each side. Meanwhile, toast and butter bread. Place steak on one slice of toast, season with salt, pepper and Worcestershire sauce, pile onion on top and cover with second slice of toast. Serve immediately. Serves 1.
BRATWURST ROLLS
These little warm rolls with their herby, mustard sausage stuffing are superb for an outdoor wedding or any casual party. You make them a day ahead and they couldn’t be easier to heat and serve – guests can help themselves from a basket or serving dish decorated with flowers or leaves.
25 long, soft bread rolls
250 g (8 oz) butter, melted
12 spring onions, finely chopped
½ cup chopped mixed fresh herbs, or ½ cup chopped parsley with 1 tablespoon mixed dried herbs
25 hot, grilled bratwurst or similar Continental sausages
Dijon mustard
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Slit open rolls lengthways and pull out some of the crumb from each piece. Brush insides with melted butter and sprinkle with chopped spring onions and herbs. Split sausages lengthways, spread insides generously with mustard and put back together. Place a sausage in each hollowed roll (trim to fit if necessary), season with salt and pepper and press roll back together. Wrap rolls, in batches of 6–8, tightly in foil and leave overnight in refrigerator. When rolls are required, heat packages straight from refrigerator in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/ 350°F) for 20 minutes. Unwrap and pile up in a basket or serving dish. Makes 25.
NOTE: If you are going to have the wedding feast away from home, take the hot rolls in their foil wrapping. They will carry perfectly and remain pleasantly warm.
Tea and cocktail sandwiches
Small sandwiches that can be eaten in 2 or 3 bites are some of the nicest things to serve on a tea table or offer with drinks. They can be made 1–2 hours ahead of time, arranged on a plate or in a napkin-lined basket and covered with a damp cloth until required.
CUCUMBER SANDWICHES
cucumber, finely sliced
salt
thin slices fresh white bread
butter
freshly ground white pepper
Sprinkle cucumber slices with salt. Leave on a tilted plate for 20 minutes to allow juice to escape, then drain on paper towels. Butter bread and make sandwiches with cucumber, seasoned with salt and white pepper. Remove crusts and cut into small triangles.
NOTE: If using ready-sliced bread, roll slices lightly with a rolling pin to make them thinner before buttering.
WATERCRESS SANDWICHES
thin slices brown bread
butter
chopped watercress
salt
lemon juice
Butter bread generously and make sandwiches with watercress seasoned with salt and a few drops of lemon juice. Roll each sandwich lightly with a rolling pin. Remove crusts and cut into small triangles.
HAM AND WATERCRESS FINGERS
½ cup thick Mayonnaise
2 tablespoons finely chopped green olives
1 tablespoon finely chopped cornichons or gherkins
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
1 tablespoon chopped spring onions
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
salt and freshly ground black pepper
14 thin slices pumpernickel or rye bread
150 g (5 oz) cooked ham, thinly sliced
watercress leaves
Combine mayonnaise, olives, cornichons, parsley, spring onion, mustard, salt and pepper. Spread bread with mayonnaise mixture. Top half the slices with ham, then watercress. Cover with remaining slices, mayonnaise side down, and press lightly together.
Remove crusts and cut each sandwich into 3 fingers.
Makes 21.
CREAM CHEESE AND HERB SANDWICHES
125 g (4 oz) cream cheese
3 teaspoons lemon juice
salt and freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup chopped parsley
¼ cup chopped mixed herbs (chives, thyme, oregano, a little sage)
1 tablespoon finely chopped spring onions (if chives are not available)
butter
12 slices white or brown bread
Soften cream cheese, then mash well with lemon juice, salt and pepper. Mix in herbs. Butter bread and make sandwiches with cheese and herb mixture. Remove crusts and cut into fingers or small triangles. Makes 18 fingers, 24 small triangles.
CHICKEN AND AVOCADO TRIANGLES
These look and taste luxurious, but really make one avocado and a little chicken go a long way.
6 slices white bread
6 slices brown bread
butter
1 ripe avocado, peeled and stoned
2 teaspoons lemon juice
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1½ cups chopped, cooked chicken meat
2 tablespoons Mayonnaise
finely chopped parsley to garnish
Butter bread lightly. Mash avocado with lemon juice, and season with salt and pepper. Combine chicken and mayonnaise. Spread white bread with a layer of avocado, then chicken. Top with brown bread. Trim crusts and cut each sandwich into 4 triangles. Arrange on a platter and garnish with a little finely chopped parsley. Serves 4.
SARDINE
The true sardine is a Mediterranean fish, of the same family as herring, anchovy and pilchard. In the summer it migrates to cooler Atlantic waters, off the French and Portuguese coasts; the canning of sardines is an important industry in these regions.
Sardines, anchovies and similar small fish called sardines in other parts of the world are usually around 12–15 cm (5–6 in) in length.
Fresh sardines are very popular in Mediterranean countries. They are usually fried, but may also be stuffed with a garlic-flavoured spinach mixture, as in Provence, or with a mixture of capers, olives, sultanas and pine nuts, as in Sicily.
Sardines are available salted or canned in oil. Salted sardines are prepared in the same way as salted anchovies – they must be thoroughly cleaned and washed, then packed in a jar with fresh olive oil. They can then be used in the same ways as canned sardines – in salads, especially with tomatoes and hard-boiled eggs, in sandwiches and in cocktail savouries.
Basic preparation: Because the bones are soft enough to eat, the fish need little preparation before cooking – simply cut away the head from the body and gently pull out the insides and the backbone if you wish. Wash and pat dry with paper towels. The sardines can now be coated in flour and fried, or grilled, or barbecued in a hinged wire fish grill over hot coals.
Hors d’Oeuvre of Canned Sardines:
• Arrange whole canned sardines on a dish, dress with lemon juice and olive oil, and sprinkle with very finely chopped spring onion, a few onion rings or sieved hard-boiled egg yolk.
• Dress whole canned sardines with a Fresh Herb Vinaigrette Dressing, made with lemon juice, and sprinkle over lots of chopped parsley.
Sardine Canapés:
• Spread toast rectangles with Garlic Butter. Slip an onion ring over each canned sardine and place on toast. Decorate with finely chopped hard-boiled egg and chives, strips of canned pimiento or sliced stuffed olives.
• Remove bones from 1 can sardines. Mash, then season with lemon juice and grated onion. Bind with a little mayonnaise and pile on buttered toast rounds. Serve as is, or top each with a small square of cheese and grill until melted. Serve hot.
• Spread toast rectangles with Garlic Butter. Arrange slices of hard-boiled egg on toast. Top with a small sardine and a little Green Mayonnaise.
FRIED FRESH SARDINES
500 g (1 lb) fresh sardines, cleaned
3–4 tablespoons seasoned flour
oil for frying
lemon wedges to serve
Roll sardines in seasoned flour to coat. Heat 2.5 cm (1 in) oil in a frying pan and fry sardines until golden. (Sardines may need to be cooked in several small batches.) Remove with a slotted spoon. Reheat oil, return sardines to pan and fry for 30 seconds to crisp coating. Drain on paper towels and serve immediately, with lemon wedges. Serves 4.
LEMON GRILLED SARDINES
24 fresh sardines or anchovies, cleaned
salt and freshly ground black pepper
juice 1 lemon
¼ cup oil
3 lemons, quartered, to garnish
Place sardines or anchovies in a bowl, season lightly with salt and pepper and add lemon juice and oil. Mix lightly so that each sardine is well coated. Arrange on rack of grill and cook under a preheated high grill for 2–3 minutes on each side. Arrange fish on a heated serving platter and garnish with lemon quarters. Serves 2–3.
GRATIN OF FRESH SARDINES
1 lemon
few sprigs fresh fennel or thyme
500 g (1 lb) fresh sardines, cleaned
salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ cup dry white wine
1 tablespoon olive oil
½ cup fresh white breadcrumbs
1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley
Squeeze juice from ½ lemon; cut other ½ into thin slices. Lay herbs and lemon slices on bottom of oiled shallow ovenproof dish. Arrange sardines on top and season well with salt and pepper. Sprinkle over lemon juice, white wine and oil. Combine breadcrumbs and parsley and scatter over sardines. Cook in a preheated hot oven (200°C/400°F) for about 10–15 minutes, basting with pan juices from time to time. Serves 4.
BAKED SARDINES
500 g (1 lb) fresh sardines or anchovies, cleaned
salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons lemon juice
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1 cup fresh breadcrumbs
30 g (1 oz) butter
Arrange fish in an oiled ovenproof dish large enough to hold fish in one layer. Season lightly with salt and pepper and sprinkle lemon juice over them. Sauté parsley, garlic and breadcrumbs in butter in a frying pan over high heat, then spread over fish. Heat dish for 1 minute on top of stove over medium heat, then place it in a preheated very hot oven (230°C/450°F). Cook for 10–12 minutes or until fish is golden and breadcrumbs crisp. Serves 4.
SICILIAN BAKED SARDINES
1 kg (2 lb) fresh sardines or anchovies, cleaned
½ cup olive oil
2 cups fresh breadcrumbs
½ cup chopped parsley
1 small onion, finely chopped
3 tablespoons pine nuts
grated rind and juice 1 lemon
salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 bay leaves
Cut heads off sardines or anchovies if preferred. Split open down belly, turn skin up on a board and press firmly down backbone. Turn again and lift out the backbone. Rinse quickly in salted water and dry well on paper towels. Heat oil in pan and toss 1½ cups breadcrumbs until crisp. Place fried crumbs in a bowl. Add parsley, onion, pine nuts, lemon rind, salt and pepper. Mix ingredients lightly together. Put a little of this stuffing into each fish and roll sides together round it. Arrange sardines in one layer in an oiled ovenproof dish. Tear bay leaves into pieces and sprinkle on top with any remaining stuffing. Top with remaining breadcrumbs. Bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for 30 minutes. Squeeze lemon juice over and serve immediately. Serves 6.
SASHIMI
A highly regarded Japanese dish, consisting of slices of raw fish garnished with slivers of cabbage, white radish or other vegetables, and always accompanied by wasabi, a hot, green horseradish paste, and soy sauce for dipping. The fish selected for sashimi must be very fresh, ideally caught and eaten on the same day. The most prized fish is the tuna from the Northern Pacific. The fish can be prepared either cut in small, square slabs with 5 or 6 pieces arranged resting on each other for one serving, or it can be sliced transparently thin.
Sashimi is nearly always served at a formal meal and is considered a course on its own.
SASHIMI
750 g (1½ lb) very fresh tuna, bream, kingfish, mackerel or jewfish
2 cups shredded daikon
1 carrot, finely grated
6 spring onions, shredded
6 snow peas
6 cooked, unshelled king prawns
1 tablespoon wasabi
6 lemon wedges
1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger
shoyu (Japanese light soy sauce)
Fillet fish, removing all skin and bones, and cut into thin slices. Arrange daikon, carrot and spring onions in mounds on a serving platter, together with snow peas. Arrange fish and prawns in centre of platter. Mix wasabi to a thick paste with a little water and place on platter, with lemon wedges and ginger. To serve, pour shoyu into individual bowls, then allow each diner to add wasabi and ginger to their own bowl of shoyu according to taste. The fish and vegetables are then dipped into this sauce before eating. Serves 6.
NOTE: Daikon is a giant white radish. Both daikon and wasabi are available from Asian greengrocers.
SATAY (SATE)
Visitors to Malaysia and Singapore never forget the satay – grilled skewered meat, poultry or fish. Satay vendors, with their charcoal braziers, are part of the charm of the city streets, and the smell of grilled meats and spices is irresistible.
Beef, pork, lamb, poultry and seafood are suitable for satay. Small cubes of meat are marinated in a spicy mixture, then threaded on bamboo or wooden skewers and grilled over charcoal. They can also be grilled under a domestic grill.
Indonesian satay is often served with a spicy peanut sauce, or you may prefer to buy a commercial satay sauce available at supermarkets and delicatessens.
Bamboo or wooden skewers should be well soaked in water for at least 2 hours before using to prevent them burning.
Serve small satays as a first course or more substantial ones as a main course, accompanied by rice and salad.
See also Peanut.
MALAYSIAN SATAY SAUCE
4–8 dried chillies, soaked and drained
8 spring onions, chopped
1 clove garlic, crushed
4 macadamia nuts, chopped
1 small strip lemon rind, chopped
½ cup raw peanuts
2 tablespoons oil
1 cup coconut milk
2 teaspoons tamarind pulp soaked in ¼ cup water for 10 minutes
1 teaspoon brown sugar
salt
Pound chillies, spring onions, garlic, macadamia nuts and lemon rind, or grind finely in a food processor. Lightly roast peanuts in a dry, heavy frying pan, then chop or pound coarsely. Heat oil in a saucepan and gently fry chilli mixture for 5 minutes, stirring frequently. Add coconut milk and bring slowly to the boil, stirring constantly. Strain tamarind over a bowl, squeezing out and reserving as much water as possible. Discard tamarind. Add tamarind water to sauce with brown sugar, roasted peanuts and salt. Simmer gently for 2–3 minutes. Serve sauce at room temperature. Makes about 2 cups.
NOTE: Tamarind pulp is available from health food or Asian grocery stores. If not available use 2 teaspoons lemon juice.
QUICK PEANUT SAUCE
3 tablespoons peanut butter
½ teaspoon sugar
½ teaspoon Tabasco sauce
30 g (1 oz) butter
1 clove garlic, crushed
juice ½ lemon
1–2 tablespoons light soy sauce
¼ cup cream
Combine all ingredients, except cream, in a heavy saucepan. Cook over low heat, stirring constantly, until thick. Remove from heat and gradually stir in cream. Serve poured over pork, beef, lamb or chicken satays or use as a dipping sauce. Makes about ½ cup.
MILD PEANUT SAUCE
6 tablespoons smooth or crunchy peanut butter
1 cup water
¾ teaspoon garlic salt
2 teaspoons brown sugar
2 tablespoons light soy sauce
lemon juice
½ teaspoon anchovy paste or essence (optional)
coconut milk or water
Combine peanut butter and water in a saucepan and stir over a gentle heat until mixed. Remove from heat and add all other ingredients, adding enough coconut milk or water to make the paste a thick pouring consistency. Adjust seasoning and add more salt and lemon juice if necessary. Makes about 1 cup.
PRAWN SATAY
3 tablespoons lemon juice
½ cup thick coconut milk
½ teaspoon sambal ulek
½ teaspoon dried shrimp paste (trasi)
1 tablespoon dark soy sauce
1 teaspoon dark brown sugar
finely grated rind 1 lemon
2 cloves garlic, crushed with ½ teaspoon salt
750 g (1½ lb) green prawns, shelled and de-veined
oil
Combine lemon juice, coconut milk, sambal ulek, trasi, soy sauce, brown sugar, lemon rind and garlic in a glass or earthenware bowl. Stir until sugar dissolves. Add prawns and stir. Cover and marinate for 2–3 hours in the refrigerator. Drain prawns, reserving marinade. Thread prawns on bamboo skewers (previously soaked in water to prevent burning), allowing 3–4 prawns per skewer. Brush with oil and grill over hot coals for about 5 minutes or under a preheated grill until prawns are lightly browned. Simmer reserved marinade for 1 minute, stirring constantly, and add more coconut milk or soy sauce to taste if necessary. Serve separately as a sauce. Serves 4.
NOTE: Sambal ulek and trasi are available from health food shops and Asian delicatessens.
SPICY CHICKEN SATAY
1 kg (2 lb) chicken breast, skinned and boned, or chicken fillets
1 tablespoon tamarind pulp soaked in ¼ cup water for 10 minutes
1 tablespoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon ground fennel
8 spring onions, chopped
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1 strip lemon rind
2.5 cm (1 in) fresh ginger, chopped
½ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon turmeric
2 teaspoons brown sugar
4 tablespoons oil
sprigs fresh coriander to garnish
Cut chicken into pieces 2 cm (¾ in) square. Strain tamarind over a bowl, squeezing out and reserving as much water as possible. Discard tamarind. Place tamarind water in an earthenware or glass bowl and add the remaining ingredients, except oil and fresh coriander. Add chicken, cover and refrigerate for several hours. Drain chicken pieces and thread onto bamboo skewers (previously soaked in water for 2 hours). Cook over charcoal or under a preheated grill until golden-brown. Garnish with fresh coriander sprigs. Serve with Malaysian Satay Sauce, steamed rice and chunks of cucumber and raw onion. Serves 6–8.
NOTE: Tamarind pulp is available from health food or Asian grocery stories. If not available, use 2 teaspoons lemon juice.
INDONESIAN SATAY
1 tablespoon peanut oil
juice 1 lemon
1 clove garlic, crushed
1 tablespoon dark soy sauce or Indonesian soy sauce (ketjap manis)
500 g (1 lb) pork fillet, cut into 2 cm (¾ in) cubes
Combine peanut oil, lemon juice, garlic and soy sauce. Marinate pork cubes in this mixture, turning occasionally, for 2–4 hours. Drain, reserving marinade. Thread cubes on bamboo skewers (previously soaked in water for 2 hours), allowing 3–4 cubes per skewer. Grill over charcoal or under a preheated grill for 10–15 minutes or until well done, basting occasionally with reserved marinade. Serve hot with Quick Peanut Sauce or Malaysian Satay Sauce. Serves 12 as a first course, 6 as a main course.
MALAYAN BEEF SATAY
1 kg (2 lb) steak, scotch fillet or rump, cut into 2 cm (¾ in) cubes cup light soy sauce cup peanut oil
2 onions, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, crushed
3 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds
2 teaspoons ground cumin
1 teaspoon lemon juice
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Put steak cubes into an earthenware bowl. Combine soy sauce, peanut oil, onions, garlic and sesame seeds, pour over meat and leave to marinate for at least 3 hours, turning from time to time. Drain meat, reserving marinade. Thread meat cubes onto small bamboo skewers (previously soaked in water for 2 hours), allowing 4–5 cubes per skewer. Mix cumin and lemon juice together and brush over meat. Grill over hot coals of a barbecue or under a preheated grill, basting with marinade and turning frequently. Grill for 6–8 minutes for rare, 8–10 minutes for medium, 10–12 minutes for well-done. Season before serving. Serves 6–8.
NOTE: To toast sesame seeds, sprinkle into a large, heavy frying pan and cook over a medium heat for 2–3 minutes or until well browned. Do not use any oil.
A less expensive cut of meat, such as topside, can be used – just add ½ cup vinegar to the marinade and marinate overnight if possible.
SINGAPORE BEEF SATAY
750 g (1½ lb) rump steak
2 teaspoons turmeric
2 teaspoons ground cumin
2 teaspoons ground fennel
finely grated rind ½ lemon
½ teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon sugar
4 tablespoons thick coconut milk
Trim fat from steak and cut fat into small pieces. Cut beef into 2 cm (¾ in) cubes. Combine turmeric, cumin, fennel, lemon rind, salt, sugar and coconut milk in an earthenware or glass bowl. Stir to dissolve sugar. Add beef cubes and mix well, then cover and leave to marinate for 1–2 hours. Thread meat on bamboo skewers (previously soaked in water for 2 hours) with 2–3 little pieces of fat on each skewer between some of the meat cubes. Put 5–6 pieces of meat on each skewer. Grill over hot coals or under a preheated grill for 8–10 minutes or until beef is tender and brown on all sides. Serve immediately with Quick Peanut Sauce or Malaysian Satay Sauce. Serves 6.
SAUCES
A good sauce can add distinction to everyday foods – as nice for family meals as for special occasions. It is reassuring to know that there are really only three main groups of sauce: white, brown, and emulsion.
When you become proficient at the basic recipes, you can make virtually any sauce recipe you come across. Also, there are myriad pan sauces which fit perfectly into today’s lifestyle – light, quick and foolproof to make – and simple fruit sauces, made from puréed and sweetened fruit.
Remember that a sauce should have body, but must never be so thick that it sits heavily on the food. A pouring or flowing sauce should run freely off a spoon; a coating sauce should be just dense enough to cling to the food but not to blanket it thickly. Be ready to add a little more liquid if your sauce is too heavy.
To store: Most sauces to be served separately with food can be prepared ahead and reheated when needed. Place hot sauce in a heatproof sauce container. Cover with plastic wrap placed directly on the surface of the sauce, then with a lid. When cool, store in the refrigerator. To reheat, remove plastic wrap, place sauce container in a pan of hot water and stir over very gentle heat until sauce is hot.
Emulsion sauces, such as hollandaise and béar-naise, must not be heated beyond lukewarm (it is quite correct to serve them at this temperature) or else they will separate; place the sauce container in a pan of warm water off the heat and stir until smooth.
Sauces based on a roux: The basis of many sauces is a roux, a cooked mixture of fat and flour. The longer it is cooked, the darker the colour becomes and the nuttier the flavour. A white or golden (blond) roux is used for the lighter coloured sauces, and a brown one for the dark sauces. It is important for a smooth result to cook the roux slowly, stirring, until it is the desired colour. When the liquid is added, the sauce must be stirred or whisked constantly until boiling so that it will thicken evenly without lumps.
White sauces
These are light in colour, usually creamy-white or a light straw colour, delicate in taste and smooth as satin. This smooth texture is achieved by a well-made roux and the liquid being carefully added.
The two main white sauces are béchamel and velouté. Béchamel is made with butter, flour and milk, flavoured with aromatic vegetables and herbs; velouté is made with butter, flour and white stock – fish, chicken or veal, according to what food it is to accompany. A knob of butter is sometimes swirled into the sauce at the last moment for extra richness. A velouté sauce may also be enriched with egg yolks and cream.
BÉCHAMEL SAUCE
1 cup milk
½ bay leaf
1 slice onion
5 black peppercorns
1 small piece celery
1 blade mace
30 g (1 oz) butter
1½ tablespoons flour
salt and freshly ground white pepper
nutmeg
Heat milk with bay leaf, onion, peppercorns, celery and mace in a small heavy saucepan until bubbles form around edge. Remove from heat, cover and let stand for 20 minutes. Strain and reserve. Wipe out saucepan. Melt butter in it. Stir in flour. Stir over low heat for 1 minute. Remove from heat and cool a little, then add strained milk and stir until smooth. Return to medium heat and stir constantly until boiling. Lower heat and cook very gently for 5 minutes, stirring frequently. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Makes about 1½ cups.
NOTE: This recipe makes a coating sauce – the right consistency for covering food in the dish in which it is to be served. For a flowing sauce to be served separately, follow the recipe but use only 1 tablespoon flour. For panada thickness (used to bind croquettes and as a soufflé base), follow the recipe but use 3 tablespoons flour.
VARIATIONS
MORNAY (CHEESE) SAUCE: To 1 quantity Béchamel Sauce, add 30 g (1 oz) grated Parmesan, Gruyère or sharp Cheddar cheese and a pinch dry mustard. Stir over low heat just until cheese has melted. Use to coat fish, vegetables, chicken or eggs. To make a dish into a gratin, pour sauce over and place under a preheated hot grill or in a hot oven until top is golden-brown (sprinkle first with a little more cheese and/or breadcrumbs tossed in butter if you wish).
CREAM SAUCE: To 1 quantity Béchamel Sauce add 2 tablespoons cream. Bring to the boil, then add a few drops lemon juice. Use for food that is served creamed – eggs, chicken, vegetables, veal.
CAPER SAUCE: To 1 quantity Cream Sauce add 1½ tablespoons capers and 1 tablespoon chopped parsley. Serve with hot ox tongue, lamb tongue and grilled or poached fish.
CURRY CREAM SAUCE: Fry 1 finely chopped onion in 1 tablespoon butter. Add 1 tablespoon curry powder and fry, stirring, for 1 minute. Add to 1 quantity Cream Sauce and simmer gently for 5–10 minutes. A little shredded or desiccated coconut may be fried with the curry powder if desired. Adjust seasoning, adding a few extra drops lemon juice if necessary. Serve on hard-boiled eggs or mix with 1½ cups chopped cooked chicken, turkey or lamb or 1 × 440 g can salmon or tuna, and reheat.
PARSLEY SAUCE: To 1 quantity Béchamel Sauce, add 2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley and a few drops lemon juice. Serve on boiled potatoes or with tripe, tongue, poached chicken or fish.
MUSTARD SAUCE: To 1 quantity Béchamel Sauce, add 2 teaspoons dry mustard blended with 1 teaspoon vinegar, or 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard. Serve with boiled meats such as corned beef or with hot poached Continental sausage such as rookwurst.
ONION SAUCE: Boil 4 finely chopped white onions in water to cover until tender. Drain and stir into 1 quantity Béchamel Sauce. Stir in 1 teaspoon cream and heat gently. Sliced hard-boiled eggs, coated with this sauce and sprinkled with parsley, become oeufs à la tripe, a breakfast or lunch dish. Use also with corned beef and other boiled meats.
WHITE OR MELTED BUTTER SAUCE: Make Béchamel Sauce as without flavouring the milk first. White sauce can be nice on foods with pronounced flavour such as cauliflower or smoked fish, and can be used as the base for mornay, onion and other well-flavoured sauces. For more delicately flavoured foods or as the base for sauces such as cream sauce or parsley sauce, béchamel is better.
VELOUTÉ SAUCE
Serve on vegetables, chicken, meats and fish, and as the basis for many variations.
30 g (1 oz) butter
2 tablespoons flour
1½ cups warm white stock (chicken, veal or fish, according to dish for which sauce will be used)
salt and freshly ground white pepper
few drops lemon juice
1 egg yolk
1 tablespoon cream
Melt butter in a heavy saucepan and stir in flour. Stir over low heat until straw-coloured. Remove from heat and cool a little, then add hot stock and stir until smooth. Return to medium heat and stir constantly until boiling. Lower heat and cook very gently for 15 minutes, stirring frequently. Season with salt, pepper and lemon juice. Stir egg yolk into cream in a small bowl (this is called the liaison). Stir in a little of the hot sauce. Add to saucepan and cook, stirring, until sauce is glossy and a little thicker, but do not allow it to boil. Makes about 1½ cups.
VARIATIONS
POULETTE SAUCE: To 1 quantity chicken Velouté Sauce, add ½ teaspoon lemon juice and 2 teaspoons chopped parsley. Good on broad beans or other green vegetables, brains, or grilled or poached chicken.
SOUR CREAM SAUCE: Follow recipe for 1 quantity Velouté Sauce using fish or veal stock. Omit egg yolk and cream liaison and add cup sour cream. Excellent with seafood or veal.
BERCY SAUCE: Boil 1 finely chopped shallot in ½ cup white wine until liquid has almost evaporated. Stir in 1 quantity fish or chicken Velouté Sauce, 1 teaspoon lemon juice and 2 teaspoons chopped parsley and reheat. Serve with seafood or chicken.
SAUCE SUPRÈME: Follow recipe for 1 quantity Velouté Sauce, using strong chicken stock as the liquid and 3 egg yolks with ½ cup cream as the liaison. Use this rich sauce to coat Sautéed Suprêmes of Chicken and mousselines of chicken, veal or ham (see Mousseline).
Brown sauces
The basic brown sauce is a simplified version of the elaborate sauce espagnole of classic cuisine, but is still a fine luxury sauce. It and its variations are served with grills and sautés of red meat, and also with browned poultry and game. It is an essential ingredient in French cooking for some of the great savoury meat dishes.
BROWN SAUCE
60 g (2 oz) clarified butter, or 3 tablespoons oil
1 small onion, diced
1 small carrot, diced
1 small piece celery, diced
1 tablespoon flour
2½ cups warm Brown Stock
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1 bouquet garni
5 black peppercorns
¼ cup dry sherry
mushroom trimmings (optional)
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Heat clarified butter or oil in a heavy saucepan, add diced vegetables (called a mirepoix) and cook on low heat, stirring occasionally, until vegetables shrivel slightly without colouring. Stir in flour and continue to cook very slowly, stirring constantly, until roux is hazelnut brown. Remove from the heat and cool a little, then add 1½ cups stock and stir until smoothly blended. Stir in tomato paste and add bouquet garni, peppercorns, sherry and mushroom trimmings, if using. Return to medium heat and stir until boiling. Half-cover with a lid and simmer for 25 minutes. Add half the remaining stock, return to the boil and skim. Simmer for 5 minutes. Add remaining stock, boil up and skim again. The addition of cool stock accelerates the rising of fat and scum and helps to clear the sauce. If the pan is tilted slightly the scum and fat will rise on one side only and can be easily removed. Simmer for a further 5 minutes. Adjust seasoning to taste. Strain, pressing vegetables through sieve to extract juice. Makes about 2 cups.
NOTE: This sauce can be stored in the refrigerator, as described, for 1 week. If you want to keep it longer, remove and bring to the boil and return to refrigerator in a clean container. It will keep for 1 week further.
VARIATIONS
BURGUNDY SAUCE: Follow recipe for 1 quantity Brown Sauce but substitute ½ cup dry red wine for the sherry. Serve with steak, roast beef and game.
MADEIRA OR MARSALA SAUCE: Follow recipe for 1 quantity Brown Sauce but substitute ¼ cup Madeira or Marsala for the sherry. Serve with beef wellington, ham, or grilled or sautéed kidneys or liver.
CHASSEUR SAUCE: Gently cook 2 finely chopped golden shallots in 15 g (½ oz) butter until soft but not coloured. Turn heat up, add 60 g (2 oz) sliced mushrooms and shake until just coloured. Add ¼ cup white wine and boil until reduced to a few tablespoons of liquid. Stir in 1 teaspoon tomato paste and 1 cup Brown Sauce and simmer for 2–3 minutes. Serve with steaks, cutlets and roasts. Makes 1¼ cup.
SAUCE ROBERT: Gently fry 1 tablespoon finely chopped onion in 1 tablespoon butter until softened. Add ¼ cup dry white wine and 1 teaspoon wine vinegar and boil until reduced by half. Stir in 1 cup Brown Sauce and add 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard and a pinch or two of sugar to taste. Piquant with lamb, pork or calf liver. Makes 1¼ cup.
Pan sauces
The preceding Brown Sauce, with its deep, rich flavour and velvety texture, though well worth making for special occasions, is too time-consuming for regular use by most of today’s busy cooks. Fortunately, it is easy to make simple and excellent pan sauces in minutes, to enhance meats, chicken or fish.
See also Supreme of Chicken.
MARSALA AND LEMON SAUCE
Thin veal stakes (escalopes) with this sauce make a quick and delicious dish. Just add buttered noodles and a salad.
3 tablespoons Marsala
1 tablespoon lemon juice
4 tablespoons cream
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Dust veal steaks with flour and sauté in butter until lightly browned on both sides. Pour over Marsala and let it bubble for a few minutes until it looks syrupy. Add lemon juice and cream. Stir well, scraping up veal juices from pan. Season with salt and pepper and simmer for 1 minute longer. Serves 4.
LEMON AND PARSLEY SAUCE
For chicken or fish.
30 g (1 oz) butter
2 tablespoons lemon juice
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Cook chicken pieces or fish fillets or steaks in a little oil and butter, then remove to a heated dish. Slowly pour off fat from pan, then add butter and heat until foaming, stirring and scraping up brown bits from pan. Add lemon juice and parsley. Taste, and season with salt (if needed) and pepper. Spoon over chicken or fish. Serves 2–4.
QUICK MUSHROOM SAUCE
For hamburgers, steak or lamb cutlets.
butter
1 cup thickly sliced or quartered mushrooms
1 teaspoon cornflour (optional) cup cream or chicken stock
1–2 tablespoons lemon juice
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Cook meat in a little oil and butter, then remove to a heated dish. Add butter to pan if necessary to make about 2 tablespoons fat and heat on high heat until foaming. Add mushrooms and cook undisturbed about 45 seconds, then turn over and cook other side a further 45 seconds. Sprinkle with cornflour, if using, and stir a few moments. Add cream or stock and bring to the boil, stirring and scraping up brown bits from bottom of pan. Cook for 1 minute. Add lemon juice, salt and pepper. Spoon sauce over meat or serve separately. Serves 4.
WINE OR VERMOUTH SAUCE
For steak or hamburgers.
½ cup red or white wine or dry vermouth
salt and freshly ground black pepper
30 g (1 oz) butter, cut into pieces
Cook steaks or hamburgers in a little oil and butter, then remove to a hot dish. Slowly pour off fat from pan. Add wine or vermouth and bring to the boil over high heat, stirring and scraping up brown bits from bottom of pan. When liquid is reduced by about half, season with salt and pepper and remove from heat. Add butter pieces. Do not stir but swirl butter in by swinging pan in a circular motion. Pour over meat and serve immediately. Serves 4.
Emulsion sauces
These luscious egg and butter sauces are thickened by the emulsifying action of egg yolk when it is whisked with other ingredients. A wire whisk is a worthwhile investment if you are making these sauces by hand – it really does make the difference in blending them smoothly together. Egg and butter sauces can also be made, effortlessly and speedily, in a blender or food processor. Note that these are warm, not hot, sauces; if overheated they will curdle.
HOLLANDAISE SAUCE
Marvellous with asparagus and other vegetables, fish and chicken.
2 egg yolks
1 tablespoon water
lemon juice
125 g (4 oz) unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
small pinch salt
Heat about 2.5 cm (1 in) deep water in the bottom of a double saucepan or a saucepan over which a heatproof bowl will fit. Bring just to simmering point. Place egg yolks, water and 1 teaspoon lemon juice in top of double saucepan or bowl, place over gently simmering water (which must not touch bottom of upper container) and whisk until yolks thicken slightly. This stage is called a sabayon and is reached when you begin to see bottom of bowl between strokes and mixture clings to whisk when it is raised from bowl. Now add butter, a piece at a time, slipping it through your fingers to soften it slightly. Whisk all the time, incorporating each piece of butter thoroughly before adding next piece. When all butter has been added and sauce is thick and creamy, add salt and a little more lemon juice. The sauce should have a delicate lemon flavour but should not be too sharp. Makes about ¾ cup.
NOTE: If the sauce refuses to thicken or curdles (probably because it has got too hot), do not worry; there is a remedy. Rinse out another mixing bowl with hot water, then put in 1 teaspoon lemon juice and 1 tablespoon of the sauce. Beat with a wire whisk until they thicken together, then beat in the rest of the sauce a little at a time, whisking each addition well until quite smooth before adding the next.
VARIATIONS
HOLLANDAISE SAUCE WITH EGG WHITES: Fold 2 egg whites, beaten until they hold soft peaks, into 1 quantity Hollandaise Sauce just before serving. This makes a lighter sauce and gives more servings. Serve with fish, asparagus or eggs.
SAUCE MOUSSELINE: Fold ½ cup cream, lightly whipped, into 1 quantity Hollandaise Sauce just before serving. Serve with mousselines of shellfish and chicken (see Mousseline), sautéed veal, chicken, asparagus or artichokes.
SAUCE VIN BLANC: Place ½ cup Fish Stock or cooking liquor from poached fish and ¼ cup dry white wine in a saucepan and boil rapidly until reduced to 2 tablespoons. Follow recipe for 1 quantity Hollandaise Sauce using this reduced liquid in place of the lemon juice and water. Serve on poached fish.
BÉARNAISE SAUCE
Serve with grilled steak, tournedos or roast beef, also with shellfish and some vegetables (green peas with béarnaise are delicious). Any leftover sauce should be kept for serving on cold roast beef or chicken sandwiches.
¼ cup white wine vinegar
1 golden shallot or spring onion, chopped
4 black peppercorns
1 bay leaf
¼ teaspoon dried tarragon
1 sprig fresh thyme, or pinch dried
2 egg yolks
125 g (4 oz) butter, cut into small pieces
salt and freshly ground white pepper
1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh tarragon or parsley (optional)
Put vinegar, shallot or spring onion, peppercorns, bay leaf, tarragon and thyme into a small saucepan and boil until reduced to 1 tablespoon liquid. Strain, pressing to extract all flavour. Place reduced flavoured vinegar and egg yolks in the top of a double saucepan or in a heatproof bowl that will fit over a saucepan. Bring 2.5 cm (1 in) deep water just to simmering point in bottom of double saucepan or saucepan, place container with egg yolks over water (which must not touch container) and whisk until yolks thicken slightly. This stage is called sabayon and is reached when you begin to see bottom of bowl between strokes and mixture clings to whisk when it is raised from bowl. Now add butter, a piece at a time, slipping it through your fingers to soften it slightly. Whisk continuously, incorporating each piece of butter thoroughly before adding next piece. When all butter has been added and sauce is thickened and creamy, season lightly with salt and pepper and fold in tarragon or parsley, if using. Makes ¾ cup.
NOTE: If sauce refuses to thicken or curdles, it can be remedied as described for Hollandaise Sauce.
VARIATIONS
PALOISE SAUCE: Follow recipe for 1 quantity Béarnaise Sauce but substitute 2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint (including stalks) for dried tarragon and thyme for making reduced flavoured vinegar, and 1 teaspoon shredded fresh mint for chopped fresh tarragon or parsley to fold through finished sauce. Serve with roast or grilled lamb.
SAUCE CHORON: Stir 1–1½ tablespoons tomato paste into 1 quantity Béarnaise Sauce. Serve with grilled or sautéed veal or lamb.
Hot butter sauces
These superbly simple sauces depend on the wonderful fragrance and flavour of butter.
BEURRE BLANC
Beurre blanc, light and creamy, goes back to Escoffier and beyond but is newly popular as a sauce of the nouvelle cuisine. It is easy to make with a wire whisk – an essential tool to achieve the liaison between liquid and butter which gives the sauce body. Serve with Mousselines or Quenelles, shellfish, poached or grilled fish, chicken, eggs and vegetables such as broccoli, cauliflower and artichokes.
1 cup poaching liquid (Court Bouillon) from fish or shellfish, or 1 cup dry white wine with good squeeze lemon juice added
1 tablespoon finely chopped golden shallot
250 g (8 oz) chilled butter, cut into large dice
salt and freshly ground white pepper
Put poaching liquid or wine and lemon juice into a small, heavy saucepan, add shallot and boil until reduced to about 2 tablespoons liquid. Remove from heat and whisk in 2 pieces of chilled butter. Return to very low heat and continue whisking in butter one piece at a time. The sauce will thicken to consistency of pouring cream. As soon as all butter has been added, remove from heat and whisk in salt and pepper. Makes about ¾ cup.
NOTE: The reduction of liquid and shallot can be prepared ahead and reheated when needed, but do not try to hold or reheat the completed sauce – it is quite correct to serve it warm rather than hot.
BEURRE NOISETTE (BROWN BUTTER)
‘Noisette’ means hazelnut, the golden-brown colour of this sauce. Beurre noisette is excellent on fish, sweetbreads, eggs and vegetables. Chopped parsley, other herbs or toasted nuts are nice additions.
90 g (3 oz) butter
1 tablespoon lemon juice
Heat butter slowly in a small frying pan, shaking pan occasionally to ensure even browning. When butter is golden-brown add any herbs etc., remove from heat and stir in lemon juice. Pour over food while still frothing. Serve very hot. Makes about ½ cup.
BEURRE NOIR (BLACK BUTTER)
Despite the name the butter is cooked until it is brown, not black. Beurre noir is the classic sauce to serve on brains and is good with fresh or smoked fish, chicken, vegetables and eggs. Oeufs au beurre noir – poached eggs in rich shortcrust tartlet cases or on rounds of toasted French bread, sauced with beurre noir with capers and chopped herbs – makes a first-course or lunch dish.
90 g (3 oz) butter
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
1 tablespoon drained capers (optional, but always used for brains)
1 tablespoon vinegar
Heat butter slowly in a small frying pan, shaking pan occasionally to ensure even browning, until it is nut-brown. Stir in parsley and capers, if using, remove from heat and add vinegar. Pour over food while still frothing. Serve very hot. Makes about ½ cup.
Other useful sauces
A selection of easy-to-prepare savoury sauces that can add variety to everyday dishes.
SMOOTH TOMATO SAUCE
An excellent sauce for pasta, gnocchi, grilled meats and green vegetables.
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped
1 carrot, finely chopped
1 stick celery, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1 sprig fresh marjoram, finely chopped, or ½ teaspoon dried
few sprigs parsley, finely chopped
1 kg (2 lb) ripe tomatoes, chopped
salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ teaspoon sugar
Heat olive oil in a saucepan and add onion, carrot, celery, garlic, marjoram and parsley. Cook over low heat until golden. Add tomatoes and season with salt, pepper and sugar. Simmer until tomatoes have turned almost to a purée. Push through a sieve or blend in a blender or food processor and then sieve. Makes about 2 cups.
MUSHROOM SAUCE
To serve with pasties, Finnan Haddie, grilled hamburgers, vegetables or grilled meats.
60 g (2 oz) mushrooms, preferably flat ones, chopped or sliced
2 golden shallots, finely chopped
45 g (1½ oz) butter
2 teaspoons flour
1¼ cups warm chicken stock
2 tablespoons cream
1 tablespoon chopped mixed fresh herbs or parsley
salt and freshly ground black pepper few drops lemon juice
Gently cook mushrooms and shallots in half the butter in a saucepan until soft. Add the remaining butter and melt it, then stir in flour. Cook gently for 1 minute. Remove from heat and add stock, stirring until smoothly blended. Return to medium heat and stir until boiling. Simmer for 2 minutes, then add cream and herbs and simmer for 1 minute longer. Season with salt, pepper and lemon juice. Makes about 1¼ cups.
BALINESE CURRY SAUCE
This fragrant curry sauce is one of the most adaptable of bases. Chicken, pork, beef or lamb, cut into bite-size pieces, can be cooked gently in it. For a vegetable curry add cabbage, green beans, eggplant, cauliflower, potato. It is also a good base for leftover cooked poultry or meats – just heat gently in the sauce.
½ cup water
1 teaspoon turmeric
4 curry leaves, or pinch curry powder
2.5 cm (1 in) piece fresh ginger
1 teaspoon ground coriander, or 1 tablespoon chopped fresh coriander
½ teaspoon grated lemon rind
1–2 chillies, seeded (or to taste)
4 spring onions, chopped (including some green tops)
2 cloves garlic
45 g (1½ oz) butter
1 teaspoon salt
1½ cups coconut milk
2 macadamia nuts or 4 cashew nuts, crushed
1 teaspoon sugar
Put water, turmeric, curry leaves or powder, ginger, coriander, lemon rind, chillies, spring onions and garlic into a blender or food processor fitted with a steel blade and process until smooth. If making by hand, pound all these ingredients, except water, in a mortar, then mix in water. Heat butter in a wok or small frying pan, add onion mixture and cook briskly, stirring, for 5 minutes. Stir in salt and coconut milk, then crushed nuts and sugar.
Vegetables, hard-boiled eggs or diced cooked meat are now added and simmered in the sauce for 15 minutes or until vegetables are done. Raw chicken pieces or diced meat should be cooked gently in the sauce for about 45 minutes or until tender. This recipe makes enough sauce for about 2 cups meat or vegetables. Serves 4.
NOTE: The sauce can be made ahead, ready for use. Simmer for 5 minutes after adding crushed nuts and sugar, then cool and store in a covered container in the refrigerator. Keeps for 1 week.
BEER OR CIDER SAUCE WITH SULTANAS
To serve with hot or cold ham or smoked tongue.
¼ cup firmly packed brown sugar
1 tablespoon cornflour
large pinch salt
1 cup cider or beer
¼ cup sultanas
8 cloves
8 cm (3 in) cinnamon stick
15 g (½ oz) butter
Mix brown sugar, cornflour and salt in a small, heavy saucepan. Stir in cider or beer and add sultanas. Tie spices in a bag and add them. Boil gently for 10 minutes, stirring often. Remove spice bag and swirl in butter. Serve immediately. Makes about 1 cup.
DEVIL SAUCE
Devil sauce is a hot, spicy mixture used to coat foods for grilling. Devilled chicken joints or small, split chickens, thick lamb or pork chops, fish fillets or fish steaks are all delicious. Devilling is also an excellent way to use cooked meat or poultry. Use the following for uncooked chicken, lamb or pork chops.
Dry devil mixture
1 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons sugar
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1 teaspoon dry mustard
½ teaspoon curry powder
30 g (1 oz) butter, melted, for grilling
Sauce
2 tablespoons tomato relish
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon fruit chutney
dash Tabasco sauce
30 g (1 oz) butter
shredded spring onions to garnish
Mix dry ingredients for devil mixture and rub into surface of chicken or meat. Leave for at least 1 hour. Brush food with melted butter for grilling and grill under a preheated grill until browned on both sides.
To make sauce, add sauce ingredients to remaining butter for grilling and heat gently. Spoon over browned chicken or meat and continue cooking, basting frequently with juices in grill pan, until done to your liking. Juices and sauce remaining in grill pan may be diluted with hot stock or vegetable water and spooned over for serving. Garnish with shredded spring onions. Makes sufficient for 4 large chicken joints.
VARIATIONS
DEVIL SAUCE FOR FISH: Mix together all the ingredients for dry devil mixture, plus butter for grilling and sauce ingredients. Spread over surface of fish and leave for 1 hour. Place in well-heated, greased grill pan under a preheated hot grill and grill on one side only for fillets or thin steaks, or turning once for thick steaks. Garnish with shredded spring onions. Sufficient for 4–8 fish fillets or 4 fish steaks.
DEVIL SAUCE FOR COOKED MEAT OR CHICKEN: Cut meat into thick slices; slash chicken flesh at intervals. Mix together all ingredients for dry devil mixture, plus butter for grilling and sauce ingredients. Spread over surface, working well in. Leave for at least 2 hours. Brown quickly under a preheated grill, basting several times with remaining mixture. Garnish with shredded spring onions. Makes sufficient for 4 servings.
PLUM SAUCE
Superb with ham, pork or duck. Keeps 2–3 weeks in the refrigerator.
2 large onions, finely chopped
90 g (3 oz) butter
500 g (1 lb) plums, stoned
1½ cups dry red wine
1 tablespoon sugar
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Cook onion slowly in butter until soft but not brown. Simmer plums with 1 cup wine for 10 minutes, then add onions with their butter and season with sugar, salt and pepper. Simmer for 10 minutes longer. Add remaining red wine, cover and simmer for 40 minutes. Serve hot or at room temperature. Makes about 3 cups.
Dessert sauces
Sweet sauces can be served with a variety of desserts – fresh fruit, ice cream, steamed or milk puddings.
QUICK APRICOT SAUCE
Nice on ice cream, cream-filled meringues, chocolate cake or apple tart.
1½ cups apricot jam
½ cup water
2 tablespoons sugar
squeeze lemon juice
2 tablespoons Kirsch or Grand Marnier
¼ cup toasted, slivered almonds
Boil jam, water and sugar together slowly for 10 minutes, stirring frequently. Rub through a sieve and add lemon juice and liqueur. Serve warm, adding almonds at last minute. Makes about 2 cups.
DIPPING SAUCE FOR FRUIT
Arrange a selection of prepared fresh fruits on individual plates and place a small bowl of this sauce on each.
1 cup sour cream
¼ cup desiccated coconut
2 tablespoons chopped walnuts
2 tablespoons sieved apricot jam
2 teaspoons finely chopped preserved ginger
1 tablespoon rum or brandy (optional)
Mix all ingredients together. Serves 4.
LEMON SAUCE
Serve with a lemon-flavoured sponge pudding.
2 teaspoons cornflour
1¼ cups water
3 tablespoons lemon juice
1 tablespoon sugar
1 tablespoon golden syrup
1 teaspoon butter
Blend cornflour with a little of the water. Put all remaining ingredients into a small, heavy saucepan and bring to the boil, stirring. Stir in blended cornflour and bring to the boil again, stirring constantly. Makes about 1½ cups.
VARIATION
LEMON RUM OR BRANDY SAUCE: Follow recipe for Lemon Sauce. Add 3 tablespoons rum or brandy after removing sauce from heat.
SWEET WHITE SAUCE
A simple, old-fashioned sauce, very good with steamed pudding.
1 tablespoon cornflour
1 cup milk
1 tablespoon sugar
½ teaspoon vanilla essence
Blend cornflour with a little of the milk. Put remaining milk and sugar into a small, heavy saucepan and bring to the boil, stirring. Stir in blended cornflour and bring to the boil again, stirring constantly. Simmer gently for 3 minutes, then add vanilla. Makes 1 cup.
SIMPLE FRUIT SAUCES
Any canned or stewed fruit, soft fresh fruit or frozen berries, etc., can be made into a sauce for ice cream, sponge or milk puddings, cake or waffles.
fresh or canned fruit
1 tablespoon arrowroot or cornflour
sugar
lemon juice
1–2 tablespoons brandy, rum, sherry, or liqueur (optional)
Purée fruit in a blender or food processor or rub through a sieve. Add syrup if using canned or stewed fruit. Thicken, if necessary, by blending arrowroot or cornflour with a little juice or water, heating puréed fruit to boiling point and stirring in enough blended arrowroot to give desired thickness. Sweeten with sugar and sharpen the flavour with lemon juice. Add brandy, rum, sherry or liqueur to taste, if desired. Serve hot or cold.
SAUERKRAUT
Called choucroute in French, this is basically shredded cabbage fermented with salt and flavoured with juniper berries. This fermentation has been used for centuries as a method of preserving cabbage, an important consideration during the long, snowbound months of winter in northern Europe.
Sauerkraut is most often combined with salted or smoked meats or sausages to make a one-dish meal. These dishes almost always require long cooking, during which the meat imparts some of its flavour to the sauerkraut.
Bulk sauerkraut is sometimes available from big barrels, but more often sauerkraut is bought in jars, canned or in vacuum-packs. If the sauerkraut is packed in brine, it should be washed and thoroughly drained before use.
KNACKWURST WITH SAUERKRAUT
2 onions, finely chopped
30 g (1 oz) butter
1 tablespoon oil
1 kg (2 lb) sauerkraut, rinsed if necessary
2 cooking apples, peeled, cored and sliced
1 tablespoon brown sugar
1 teaspoon dry mustard
½ cup dry white wine
salt and freshly ground black pepper
500 g (1 lb) knackwurst sausage, or Polish clobassi
Fry onions in butter and oil in a frying pan until transparent. Toss sauerkraut with fork to separate, then add to pan with apples, sugar, mustard and wine. Season with salt and pepper. Spread out in a large greased shallow ovenproof dish. Place sausage in pan of cold water, bring to the boil then drain. Cut into thick diagonal slices and arrange on top of sauerkraut mixture. Cover with foil and bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for about 20–30 minutes or until heated through. Serve accompanied by mustard and dill pickles if desired. Serves 6.
CHOUCROUTE SOUP
500 g (1 lb) sauerkraut, rinsed if necessary
2 medium potatoes, peeled and diced
2 rashers bacon, rind removed
6 juniper berries
1 bay leaf
salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 teaspoons sugar
5 cups chicken stock or water
2–3 smoked frankfurts, cut into short lengths
¼ cup cream
Place sauerkraut in a large saucepan with potatoes, bacon, juniper berries, bay leaf, salt, pepper and sugar. Add stock or water and simmer for about 1 hour. Push through a sieve or purée using a food mill. Return to pan, add frankfurts and cook for a further 15 minutes. Adjust seasoning, and stir in cream just before serving. Serves 6–8.
JUNIPER SAUERKRAUT
1 onion, finely chopped
1 apple, peeled, cored and chopped
1 clove garlic, crushed
60 g (2 oz) butter
6 juniper berries, crushed
500 g (1 lb) sauerkraut, rinsed if necessary
1 teaspoon celery seeds
1 cup chicken or beef stock
1 cup plain yogurt or sour cream
Cook onion, apple and garlic in butter in a flameproof casserole over low heat until soft. Add juniper berries, sauerkraut, celery seeds and stock and simmer for 2–3 minutes. Cover, reduce heat to very low and cook for 45–60 minutes, or cook in a preheated slow oven (150°C/300°F). Stir in yogurt or sour cream just before serving. Serve hot as an accompaniment to grilled pork chops or sausages. Serves 6.
SAUERBRATEN
A dish of marinated, spiced beef or pork pot-roasted to melting tenderness is one of Germany’s most celebrated dishes. The old way to tenderise tough meat was to cover it in a vinegar marinade. Today the marinade is often based on red wine and used more for flavour than as a tenderiser. Serve sauerbraten with dumplings and red cabbage.
SAUERBRATEN
1 × 3 kg (6 lb) boned and rolled top round of beef or fresh silverside
½ cup red wine vinegar
1½ cups red wine
10 black peppercorns
1 teaspoon salt
1 bay leaf
6 cloves
2 cloves garlic
2 strips lemon rind
1 onion, sliced
¼ teaspoon nutmeg
3 sticks celery, chopped
2 carrots, chopped
3 sprigs parsley
2 cups beef stock
3 tablespoons cornflour
½ cup sour cream
Place beef in a large china or glass bowl. Combine all other ingredients except stock, cornflour and sour cream. Add to beef, cover and refrigerate for 3 days, turning occasionally. Remove meat and reserve marinade. Dry meat well with paper towels. Bring marinade to the boil in a saucepan and leave to simmer over low heat while the meat is cooking; it will be used to baste the meat. Heat a heavy flameproof casserole, add meat, fat side down, and brown well on all sides over moderate heat. Pour off excess fat. Add 1 cup beef stock, then cover and simmer over very low heat for 3–3½ hours or until meat is tender. Baste occasionally with remaining stock and the hot marinade until all the marinade has been added. Remove meat to a hot platter. Strain cooking liquid, pressing vegetables through the sieve. Remove fat from surface and return puréed vegetables to casserole. Thicken with cornflour mixed with a little water. Add sour cream. The sauce should be served separately from the meat. Serves 8–10.
NOTE: If liked, the gravy may be thickened with ½ cup broken gingersnap biscuits and ¼ cup raisins or currants added for sweetness.
SAUSAGE
Salame, saucisson, wurst – the simple sausage speaks many languages. The art of sausage-making can be traced back many centuries, and sausages have probably been made for as long as the pig has been slaughtered, around Christmas time in the northern hemisphere.
The skill and ingenuity of the early sausage-makers is still in evidence today, with different towns and regions producing their own particular and traditional types of sausages. It might be fresh or salted, cooked or smoked, herb or garlic-flavoured, large or small.
Butchers are now offering a wide range of sausages that are competing with prime cuts for an agreeable main meal.
Types of sausages:
Fresh sausages: These may be made of pork or beef, and are seasoned or spiced. The meat may be very finely ground and combined with cereal or some other ‘filler’, or the sausage may contain meat only. Most fresh Continental sausages are of this latter type; the Toulouse sausage is a particular type of pure pork sausage, which comes as one long coiled length.
Raw sausages: Also called air-dried sausages, these are typified by the Italian salame.These are generally made of pork, or a mixture of pork and beef. The meat is minced and salted, in the same way as ham is salted; flavourings and spices are added and the sausages are hung up to dry for several months. Salami-type sausages are marvellous in salads, as part of an hors d’oeuvre, combined with fresh melon or figs, on savouries and open sandwiches. They should be quite firm when bought, and should be sliced very thinly.
Cooked sausages: There is an enormous range of cooked sausages, some of which are also smoked. Polish clobassi is one of these, as is the Italian mortadella, and many German sausages – frankfurt, bierwurst, presswurst. These may be eaten as they are, with a salad and perhaps mustards and pickles, or with potato salad and dill cucumbers. Or they may be simmered in stock or water for about 10–20 minutes, depending on size, and eaten hot with starchy vegetables such as mashed potatoes, sauerkraut, cooked lentils, haricot beans or red cabbage.
Soft sausages: These include all forms of liver sausage, which is eaten as it is, on bread or biscuits. German mettwurst is another soft, spreading sausage. German sausages may also be made with tongue, or a mixture similar to brawn, or liver mixture studded with cubes of pork fat.
Black puddings: Also known as boudins in France, or blood sausages, they are made with pig’s blood, onions and seasonings. They may be cooked by simmering or frying, and are usually accompanied by mashed potato, onions and fried apple rings.
Andouilles and andouillettes: French names for smoked and salted sausages made from pork tripe. They are found throughout France; andouille is eaten cold, usually as an hors d’oeuvre, while andouillettes are gently fried or simmered.
To cook fresh sausages: Fresh sausages may be grilled or fried, and if desired cooking may be preceded by parboiling. Prick the sausages lightly with a sharp-pronged fork or the point of a knife, in order to prevent them bursting. Parboiling also helps to prevent bursting. Fresh sausages will burst if cooked too fast.
When frying sausages, it is rarely necessary to add any fat except just enough to prevent them from sticking. If sausages give out a lot of fat during cooking, drain this off.
When barbecuing sausages, thread them on long skewers to make them easy to turn.
When sausages are cooked the flesh will no longer be pink and the skins will be nicely browned. Insert a skewer in the middle to test – it should be warm to the touch.
Tomato, onion and mustard sauces go well with fresh sausages, as do mustard and horseradish.
RISOTTO WITH ITALIAN SAUSAGE
2 tablespoons finely chopped onion
45 g (1½ oz) butter
2 tablespoons oil
2 cups short-grain rice, such as Arborio, carnaroli or vialone nano
4 cups boiling chicken stock
375 g (12 oz) fresh Italian sausage, such as fennel and cumin
¼ cup dry white wine
salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese
Gently fry onion in 30 g (1 oz) butter and the oil in a saucepan until translucent. Add rice and stir until well coated. Add ½ cup stock, stirring. As stock is absorbed, add another ½ cup stock and mix in. Continue adding stock in this way until it is all added and rice is tender. Meanwhile, cook sausages in frying pan with wine. Allow wine to evaporate, then cook sausages in their fat for 12–15 minutes. Remove and set aside. When rice is cooked, add salt and pepper. Stir in remaining butter and Parmesan and mix thoroughly. Turn onto heated serving dish. Pour all but 2 tablespoons fat from frying pan in which sausages cooked. Add about 2 tablespoons water and deglaze frying pan over high heat, scraping any residue from bottom. Return sausages to pan to heat through, then arrange on risotto and pour pan liquid over. Serve immediately, with additional Parmesan if desired. Serves 4.
SCOTCH EGGS
500 g (1 lb) sausage mince
few drops Tabasco sauce
few drops Worcestershire sauce
6 hard-boiled eggs
½ cup flour
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 egg, beaten
dry breadcrumbs
oil for deep-frying
Mix sausage mince with sauces. Divide into 6 equal portions. Dust eggs lightly with flour seasoned with salt and pepper, then cover each egg with sausage mixture, pressing and moulding on well. Brush with beaten egg and roll in breadcrumbs. Chill for at least 1 hour. Deep-fry eggs in hot oil until golden-brown. Drain on paper towels. Cool and chill. Serve cold with salads. Makes 6.
SAUSAGES WITH ONION GRAVY
8 sausages
60 g (2 oz) butter
6 onions, sliced
2 tablespoons flour
1 teaspoon dry mustard
1 cup beef stock
¾ cup flat beer
1 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme, or ¼ teaspoon dried
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Prick sausages, place in a saucepan and cover with cold water. Bring to the boil and simmer for 10 minutes. Drain. Peel off skin. Melt butter in a saucepan and sauté onion until softened. Stir in flour and dry mustard and cook for 1 minute. Stir in the remaining ingredients, bring to the boil and simmer for 15 minutes. Add sausages and continue to simmer for 5 minutes or until heated through. Serves 4.
GERMAN BEAN SOUP
1 cup dried white beans, soaked overnight and drained
freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley
2 bay leaves
salt
1 tablespoon oil
2 medium carrots, sliced
8 cups chicken or beef stock
1 large cabbage leaf, cut into chunks
2 medium leeks, cut into 5 cm (2 in) pieces
pinch nutmeg
250 g (8 oz) German bratwurst or frankfurts, thickly sliced
Cover beans with fresh cold water and bring to the boil. Add pepper, parsley and bay leaves and simmer gently for 1 hour or until beans are tender, adding salt towards the end of cooking. Drain and discard bay leaves. Heat oil in a saucepan, add carrots and cook gently for 10 minutes. Add stock, cabbage, leeks and cooked beans. Adjust seasoning and add nutmeg. Cook over moderate heat for 15 minutes, then add sliced sausage and simmer gently for 15 minutes longer. Serves 8–10.
ITALIAN SALAD WITH CHEESE AND SALAMI
1 lettuce, torn into pieces
2 firm, ripe tomatoes, seeded and cut into wedges
4 anchovy fillets, chopped
salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons wine vinegar
5 tablespoons olive oil
pinch dried oregano
125 g (4 oz) Italian salami (milano or veneto), thinly sliced and cut into strips
125 g (4 oz) mozzarella cheese, cut into strips
Place lettuce leaves in a bowl with tomatoes. Add anchovy fillets, salt and pepper to vinegar, then gradually whisk in oil. Add oregano. Taste and add more oil or vinegar if desired. Pour dressing over lettuce and tomato and toss lightly. Arrange salami and cheese around top of salad, and serve immediately with crusty bread. Serves 4.
FRANKFURT AND CABBAGE SALAD
4 frankfurts
4 slices cooked ham, cut into fine strips
4 ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded and diced
1 red or green pepper, cored, seeded and cut into strips
½ cup Vinaigrette Dressing
¼ teaspoon paprika
1 teaspoon tomato paste
1 teaspoon French mustard
½ small white cabbage, finely shredded
3–4 tablespoons oil
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
Poach frankfurts for 5–8 minutes, drain, cool and slice thickly. Place frankfurts, ham, tomatoes and pepper in a large bowl. Combine vinaigrette dressing with paprika, tomato purée and mustard. Toss frankfurt mixture with this dressing. Arrange salad on half of large platter. Toss cabbage with oil, salt and pepper, then add vinegar and toss again. Arrange cabbage salad next to frankfurt salad. Serves 4.
SAUSAGES WITH PEPPERS AND WINE
500 g (1 lb) chorizo or similar spiced pork sausages
1 tablespoon olive oil
¼ cup water
3 golden shallots, sliced
1 small red or green pepper, cored, seeded and finely chopped
1 rasher bacon, rind removed, diced
½ cup white wine
1 tablespoon Madeira
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Gently fry sausages in oil until browned all over. Transfer to ovenproof dish. Add water and complete cooking in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/ 350°F). In pan in which sausages were browned, cook shallots, pepper and bacon for 2–3 minutes. Add wine and Madeira and bring to boil, then simmer for 10–15 minutes or until sausages are ready. Season sauce with salt and pepper. Serve with sausages. Serves 3–4.
BEAN AND SAUSAGE PLATTER
8 Italian pork sausages
2 tablespoons olive oil
½ cup tomato purée or Fresh Tomato Sauce
½ cup water
salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 cups dried haricot beans, soaked and cooked in water until tender, or 4 cups drained canned haricot beans
Prick sausages, place in frying pan and cover with cold water. Slowly bring to the boil, then drain. In same pan, cook sausages in oil until cooked through and well coloured on all sides. Remove and keep warm. Add tomato purée or sauce to pan and cook for 1–2 minutes. Add water and simmer gently for 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Add beans, stir well to mix and reheat for 5 minutes. Return sausages to pan to heat through. Arrange beans on heated serving platter and top with sausages. Serve immediately. Serves 6–8.
SAUSAGES WITH APPLES
500 g (1 lb) pork sausages
4 apples, cored and sliced
30 g (1 oz) butter
½ cup dry cider or white wine
1 tablespoon brandy
½ cup cream
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Prick sausages and fry over moderate heat. In another pan, cook apples in butter until golden. Remove from pan and keep warm. Add cider or wine to pan, bring to the boil and reduce slightly, then add brandy and cream. Reduce heat and stir well. Reduce over high heat if thicker sauce is required. Season well with salt and pepper and pour sauce over sausages and apples. Serve immediately. Serves 3–4.
POLISH SAUSAGE IN RED WINE
1 cup finely chopped onions
3 cups red wine
1 kg (2 lb) Polish clobassi or kransky sausage
Combine onions with red wine in large heavy frying pan or electric frypan. Add sausage and bring to the boil, then reduce heat and simmer for 20–25 minutes, turning several times, or until sausages are glazed with wine. Slice thickly, and serve on bed of creamy mashed potatoes. The sausage is also delicious cold. Serves 8.
SAUSAGE ROLLS
1 × 375 g (12 oz) packet frozen puff pastry, thawed
500 g (1 lb) sausage mince
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 egg, beaten
Roll pastry out thinly and divide into 2 strips about 10 cm (4 in) wide. Trim edges. Form sausage mince into 2 neat rolls the same length as the pastry strips and place each roll along a strip of pastry. Brush long pastry edges lightly with egg, fold pastry over sausage mince and seal it to opposite edge. Cut each roll into 12 sections. Rinse baking tray with cold water, place sausage rolls on tray and make 2 diagonal slashes through top of each roll. Brush tops with remaining egg. Chill for 20 minutes. Bake in a preheated very hot oven (230°C/450°F) for 10 minutes, then reduce heat to moderate (180°C/350°F) and cook for 10 minutes longer. Serve hot. Makes 24.
NOTE: If made in advance, cool rolls on a wire rack, then, when needed, reheat for 5–8 minutes in a moderate oven (180°C/350°F).
GLAZED PORK SAUSAGES
8 pork sausages cup firmly packed brown sugar
2 cups water
1 tablespoon vinegar
Put all ingredients into a large frying pan and simmer gently until water has evaporated. Tilt pan back and forth to roll sausages and coat them with light glaze that has formed on bottom. Serve immediately with hot boiled rice mixed with chopped red pepper, pineapple and spring onions. Serves 4.
TOAD-IN-THE-HOLE
An old English favourite.
1 cup flour
¼ teaspoon salt
1 egg
1¼ cups milk
500 g (1 lb) sausages
30 g (1 oz) dripping or lard
Sift flour and salt in a bowl. Make well in centre, add egg and milk and gradually mix to a smooth batter. Set aside for 30 minutes. Fry sausages in fat in flame-proof baking dish for 5 minutes or until brown on all sides. Pour batter over sausages and bake in a preheated hot oven (200°C/400°F) for about 30 minutes or until risen and brown. Serves 4.
CHICK PEAS WITH TOMATOES AND SAUSAGES
1½ cups dried chick peas, soaked overnight and drained
250 g (8 oz) pork sausages
150 g (5 oz) bacon, diced
1 large onion, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1 large green pepper, cored, seeded and diced
4 large ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped
nutmeg or cinnamon
¼ teaspoon dried thyme
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Place chick peas in saucepan and add fresh cold water to cover. Simmer, covered, for about 1 hour. Prick sausages and brown in frying pan. Remove and cut into 2.5 cm (1 in) pieces. Set aside. Blanch bacon in boiling water for 1 minute, then drain. Brown bacon, onion, garlic and green pepper in fat from sausages in frying pan, stirring from time to time. Add tomatoes, spice, thyme, salt and pepper. Cover and cook over low heat for 10 minutes. Fold in sausage pieces. Drain chick peas, reserving 2 cups liquid. Turn into greased ovenproof baking dish and cover with tomato and sausage mixture. Moisten with reserved liquid. Cover and bake in a preheated moderately hot oven (190°C/375°F) for about 1½ hours, stirring from time to time. Serve in wide soup plates. Serves 4–6.
BAKED SAUSAGE, CABBAGE AND APPLES
500 g (1 lb) sausage mince
1 small onion, finely chopped
3 tablespoons vinegar
2 tablespoons brown sugar
salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ small cabbage, finely shredded
3 medium cooking apples, peeled, cored and thinly sliced
nutmeg
Shape sausage mince into 8 flat patties and brown quickly on both sides in a greased frying pan. Remove patties. Add onion to fat in pan and brown lightly. Add vinegar, sugar, ½ teaspoon salt and a grinding of pepper, and remove from heat. Arrange alternate layers of cabbage and apple in a greased casserole, seasoning each layer with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Place sausage patties in a single layer on top and pour vinegar mixture over. Cover and bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for 40 minutes. Uncover and bake for 10 minutes longer. Serve with buttered noodles. Serves 4.
CURRIED SAUSAGES
8 sausages
1 large onion, chopped
¼ cup diced celery
1 cooking apple, peeled, cored and diced
1 clove garlic, crushed
1–2 tablespoons curry powder
2 tablespoons flour
2 teaspoons tomato paste
2 cups chicken stock
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Prick sausages, place in a baking dish and bake in a preheated moderately slow oven (160°C/325°F) for 15–20 minutes or until well cooked. Drain sausages, reserving 3 tablespoons fat. Place fat in a saucepan and fry onion, celery, apple and garlic until soft. Add curry powder and fry for 2 minutes. Blend in flour and tomato paste, then add stock gradually, stirring constantly until boiling. Season with salt and pepper. Add sausages to sauce and simmer until heated through. Serve with fluffy boiled rice and simple store cupboard accompaniments such as sultanas, chutneys and cashews. Serves 4.
SAUSAGE ROLL IN FLAKY PASTRY
2 large onions, thinly sliced
30 g (1 oz) butter
2 tablespoons brandy, whisky or Calvados
2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme, or ½ teaspoon dried
½ teaspoon chopped fresh sage, or pinch dried
large pinch nutmeg
small pinch ground cloves
about ½ teaspoon salt (depending on seasoning of sausage mince)
freshly ground black pepper
750 g (1½ lb) sausage mince
1 quantity Flaky Pastry, or 1 × 375 g (12 oz) packet frozen puff pastry, thawed
1 egg yolk, lightly beaten
Cook onions gently in butter until soft but not brown. Set aside. Knead liquor, herbs, spices, salt and pepper into sausage mince. Roll meat between 2 sheets of floured plastic wrap to a rectangle about 1 cm (½ in) thick. Peel off top sheet of wrap and spread meat evenly with onions. Using bottom sheet of wrap to help, roll up meat like a Swiss roll. Lift into a greased shallow baking tin, seam side down, and bake in a preheated moderately slow oven (160°C/ 325°F) for 30 minutes, turning occasionally. Remove from oven and cool. Increase temperature to very hot (230°C/450°F). Roll out pastry to a sheet large enough to wrap around the meat. Place meat on pastry and wrap it around, brushing a little egg yolk onto seam and pressing it together. Place seam side down on baking tray and chill for 20 minutes. Cut a few slashes through pastry and brush with egg yolk. Bake in very hot oven (230°C/450°F) for 10–15 minutes or until pastry is lightly coloured. Reduce heat to moderate (180°C/350°F) and bake for 15 minutes longer or until pastry is golden-brown and meat is heated through. Serve hot or warm. Serves 6.
SAUSAGE ROLLS
See Sausage.
SAVARIN
A wonderful liqueur-soaked yeast cake, said to have been invented by the great French chef Jean Brillat-Savarin. He used a yeast dough similar to that used for the earlier Baba au Rhum, but omitted the raisins in the mixture, changed the shape and the name, and introduced it to Paris, where it became a triumph.
A savarin is baked in a special savarin ring mould. The syrup is usually flavoured with Kirsch, and the centre can be filled with whipped cream, custard or a fruit filling. A savarin is usually glazed, and can be decorated with almonds, glacé fruits or fresh berry fruits, if desired.
SAVARIN
2 cups flour
¼ teaspoon salt
15 g (½ oz) compressed yeast
3 teaspoons sugar
½ cup warm milk
2 eggs (60 g size)
125 g (4 oz) butter, softened
½ cup Apricot Glaze
1 cup fruit (strawberries, raspberries, cherries, blackberries, etc.), sprinkled with 2 tablespoons Kirsch and 1 tablespoon sugar
Syrup
1 cup water
1 cup sugar
2.5 cm (1 in) piece vanilla bean
4 tablespoons Kirsch
Sift flour and salt into a large warmed bowl. In a small bowl cream yeast with sugar, then add warm milk. Make a well in centre of flour and add yeast mixture. Sprinkle a little flour from side over top, cover with a cloth and leave in a warm place for 15 minutes for yeast to sponge. Beat eggs into butter and add to yeast mixture. Beat vigorously using the hand until all flour is incorporated and the dough is smooth and elastic. Cover with a cloth and leave dough to rise in a warm place until doubled in bulk. This will take 30–40 minutes. Spoon dough into a well-greased 23 cm (9 in) savarin mould or ring tin. Allow to rise in a warm place until dough reaches top of tin. Bake in a preheated hot oven (200°C/ 400°F) for about 20 minutes or until golden-brown and beginning to shrink a little from sides of mould.
To make syrup, combine water, sugar and vanilla bean in a saucepan. Stir over medium heat until sugar dissolves. Bring to the boil and boil for 10 minutes. Discard vanilla bean. Stir in Kirsch. Remove savarin from oven and cool in tin for 5 minutes. Turn out onto a cake rack and place a dish under rack to catch any syrup if it runs off cake. Prick savarin with a fine skewer all over and while still hot spoon warm syrup over, a little at a time, until all syrup has been absorbed. Allow savarin to cool. Carefully slide onto a serving dish, brush lightly with apricot glaze and fill centre with fruit sprinkled with sugar and Kirsch. Serves 6–8.
NOTE: The centre of the savarin may be filled with 2 cups whipped cream flavoured with Kirsch, 2 cups Crème Pâtissière flavoured with vanilla and Kirsch, or a macédoine of fresh fruits such as cherries, pears, apricots and pineapple sprinkled with sugar and Kirsch. A bowl of whipped cream may accompany the savarin if you wish. Dry yeast can be used; see Yeast Cookery.
SCALLOP
A shellfish known by its French name, coquille St Jacques, belonging to a group of bivalve molluscs, the most familiar species having scalloped, fan-shaped shells that are both beautiful and symbolic. The exquisite scallop design has been used in paintings through the ages (notably Botticelli’s The Birth of Venus). The shell has long been a symbol of Christianity and a badge of pilgrims.
Scallops are usually purchased shucked or split, the edible flesh (white adductor muscle and orange coral or roe) removed from the shells. They can be bought fresh or frozen and usually require little preparation, except the removal of any small brown parts that may be left after cleaning.
Scallops have a delicate, subtle flavour, admirably suited to simple dishes. They should be cooked for short periods only and can be baked, poached, grilled or fried in many ways. Whichever way you choose, don’t overcook or reheat them too long or they will shrink and toughen. When scallops are done they will be opaque with a slightly transparent centre.
Try scallops fried or baked in the oven in butter with chopped parsley, garlic and lemon juice, or sautéed and served with a little port and cream stirred in to make a sauce. Grill them with bacon, speared on a skewer, or roll them in breadcrumbs and fry in butter; use them in soups and chowders, or poach them lightly and serve in a white wine or vermouth sauce, sprinkled with breadcrumbs and browned under the grill.
SCALLOP CHOWDER
4 cups milk
1½ cups cream
60 g (2 oz) butter
2 teaspoons sugar
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
500 g (1 lb) scallops, minced or finely chopped
lemon juice
paprika
2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley
Combine milk, cream, butter, sugar,Worcestershire sauce, salt and pepper in a heatproof bowl or top of a double saucepan. Heat over simmering water, stirring. Add scallops and simmer for 5 minutes. Season with lemon juice. Serve sprinkled with paprika and chopped parsley. Serves 4–6.
SCALLOPS WITH GARLIC BUTTER SAUCE
500 g (1 lb) scallops
seasoned flour
75 g (2½ oz) butter
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 small clove garlic, finely chopped
2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley
lemon wedges to garnish
Remove any brown parts from scallops but keep coral. Dust with seasoned flour, shaking well to remove any excess. Melt 15 g (½ oz) butter with the oil in a sauté pan. When foam subsides, sauté scallops for 2–3 minutes or until light golden. Transfer to a heated dish and keep warm. Clarify remaining butter by melting it slowly and skimming off foam. Spoon clear butter into a container and discard milky solids left at bottom. Return clarified butter to pan and heat until it sizzles without colouring. Remove from heat and stir in garlic. Pour over scallops and serve at once, sprinkled with chopped parsley and garnished with lemon wedges. Serves 4.
CHINESE STEAMED SCALLOPS
Most fish markets sell fresh scallops in their shells, a treat when cooked in this light, easy, quick and fragrant way. If scallops in their shells are not available, arrange 4–5 scallops in each of 3–4 small buttered ramekins and cook in this way.
250 g (8 oz) baby spinach leaves
12 scallops, in shells
6–8 spring onions, cut into matchsticks
6 slices fresh ginger, shredded
¼ cup coriander sprigs
4 teaspoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons peanut oil
2 teaspoons sesame oil
Wash the spinach leaves. Shake the excess water off the leaves, drop them in a saucepan and allow to cook over a low heat, covered, until wilted. Drain well. Spoon even, small amounts of the cooked spinach on the shells; top with scallop. Arrange the shells on a rack in a steamer (a large bamboo steamer is ideal, or use a cake rack over water in a wok). Scatter half the spring onions and ginger over the scallops, reserving the rest for garnish.
Cover well with aluminium foil or a lid and cook gently over a moderate heat for about 5 minutes or until cooked. Remove the shells to a heated serving dish and garnish the scallops with the reserved spring onions, ginger and coriander sprigs. Heat the soy sauce, peanut and sesame oil in a small saucepan, pour over the scallops and serve immediately.
Serves 3–4.
CURRIED SCALLOPS
A curry flavour seems to go particularly well with scallops, and adds a golden colour to the creamy sauce.
1 kg (2 lb) scallops
90 g (3 oz) plus 2 teaspoons butter
3–4 spring onions, chopped
2 teaspoons curry powder
2 cups dry white wine
1 bouquet garni (2 sprigs parsley, 1 bay leaf and 2 sprigs fresh thyme)
2 teaspoons flour
½ cup cream
salt and freshly ground black pepper
finely chopped parsley
Remove any brown parts from scallops, keeping coral. Melt 90 g (3 oz) butter in a heavy saucepan over a medium heat and add spring onions and curry powder. Stir for 1 minute. Add wine, scallops and bouquet garni and bring to the boil. Reduce heat and poach for 3–4 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer scallops to a serving dish, or 6 individual scallop shells or dishes, and keep warm. Reduce cooking liquid to 1½ cups by rapid boiling, and discard bouquet garni. Make a beurre manié by blending remaining butter and flour together. Gradually stir into stock in small pieces, and bring to boiling point. Add cream, season with salt and pepper and cook gently, stirring, for a few minutes, but do not allow to boil. Pour sauce over scallops and sprinkle with parsley. Serves 6.
PRECIOUS JADE COCKTAIL
Fascinating presentation makes this seafood cocktail the highlight of the meal. Offer a choice of 2 interesting sauces.
2 cucumbers
375 g (12 oz) cooked prawns
250 g (8 oz) scallops
¼ cup dry white wine
¼ cup water
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon lemon juice
3 tablespoons oil
fresh dill, parsley or watercress to garnish
Fresh tomato sauce
2 ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded and finely chopped
¾ cup cream, lightly whipped
2 tablespoons grated horseradish
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Curried mayonnaise
1 cup Mayonnaise
2 spring onions, finely chopped
2 teaspoons chutney
2 teaspoons curry powder
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 egg white
Lightly peel cucumbers, leaving a little pale green, then, with a swivel-bladed potato peeler, shave off thin ribbons of flesh. Drop them into iced water, which will make them curl into pretty shapes. Shell prawns, leaving tails intact, and de-vein. Remove any brown parts from scallops, keeping coral. Poach scallops for 2 minutes in wine and water seasoned with little salt and pepper. Drain. Whisk together lemon juice, oil, salt and pepper and pour over scallops, turning to coat them with this dressing. Drain cucumber and arrange in middle of 6 individual serving plates. Arrange prawns on one side and scallops on the other. Garnish with dill, parsley or watercress.
To make fresh tomato sauce, fold tomatoes into cream, with horseradish, salt and pepper to taste.
To make curried mayonnaise, mix mayonnaise with spring onions, chutney, curry powder, salt and pepper. Beat egg white until it forms soft peaks, and fold in. Pass sauces separately, so each guest may choose which they prefer. Serves 6.
SCALLOPS BEURRE BLANC
Creamy-white scallops with their pretty orange corals sit in a golden butter sauce and are topped with a scattering of chives to make a lovely picture.
500 g (1 lb) scallops
salt and freshly ground white pepper
1 cup white wine
little lemon juice
1 tablespoon chopped spring onions
125 g (4 oz) butter, cut into pieces
8–10 chives to garnish
Remove any brown parts from scallops, keeping coral. Season with salt and pepper. Poach scallops in wine and lemon juice for about 1 minute. Remove scallops and keep warm. Add spring onions to poaching liquid and boil to reduce to about cup. Over a gentle heat, add butter to poaching liquid a little at a time, whisking it in to make a sauce the consistency of pouring cream. Season sauce with salt and pepper and spoon onto 4 heated entrée plates. Arrange scallops on top and garnish with matchstick lengths of chives. Serves 4.
SCALLOPS WITH AVOCADOS
The combination of lightly poached scallops and avocado is perfect for a light lunch followed by a green salad.
250 g (8 oz) scallops
white wine
1 canned pimiento, cut into strips
2 ripe avocados, chilled, halved and stoned
chopped parsley
lemon wedges
Vinaigrette dressing
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 small clove garlic, crushed with a little salt
4 tablespoons olive oil
salt and freshly ground black pepper
dash Tabasco sauce
Remove any brown parts from scallops, keeping coral. Poach gently in a little wine and water for about 5 minutes. Drain. Mix all ingredients for dressing in a small bowl and pour over scallops. Add pimiento. Cover and chill for at least 1 hour. Scoop out some of the avocado flesh and add to seafood mixture. Blend lightly. Spoon some marinated seafood into each avocado half and sprinkle with chopped parsley. Serve with wedges of lemon. Serves 4.
SCALLOPS IN WHITE WINE SAUCE
500 g (1 lb) scallops
1 cup dry white wine
salt and freshly ground white pepper
2 spring onions, halved
½ cup water
60 g (2 oz) butter
2 teaspoons flour
½ cup cream
1 cup fresh breadcrumbs
Remove any brown parts from scallops, keeping coral. Put wine in saucepan with salt, pepper, spring onions and water. Add scallops, bring to the simmer and poach for 1 minute. Drain scallops and cut large ones into 2 or 3 slices. Strain cooking liquid and reduce by boiling over medium heat to ½ cup. Melt 45 g (1½ oz) butter in a saucepan, add flour and blend until smooth. Add reduced poaching liquid, then cream, stirring until sauce boils. Spoon a little sauce over bottom of 4 scallop shells or ovenproof ramekins, divide scallops among shells and cover with remaining sauce. Sprinkle with breadcrumbs. Put a piece of remaining butter on top of each and brown quickly under preheated grill. Serves 4.
SAUTÉED SCALLOPS
This recipe can be used as a filling for vol-au-vent cases or crêpes, or served over rice or on its own with crusty bread to mop up the juices.
60 g (2 oz) butter
6 spring onions, chopped
1 stick celery, diced
1 carrot, diced
2 bay leaves
¼ cup dry sherry
500 g (1 lb) scallops
1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill or fennel
salt and freshly ground black pepper
sprigs of fresh dill or fennel to garnish
Melt 30 g (1 oz) butter in a saucepan and fry spring onions, celery, carrot and bay leaves for 3–5 minutes. Add sherry, cover and simmer gently for 10 minutes or until vegetables are soft but not mushy. Remove bay leaves. Remove any brown parts from scallops, keeping coral. Sauté scallops and dill or fennel in remaining butter in a frying pan for 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Add scallops and pan juices to vegetables and serve as described above, garnished with sprigs of dill or fennel. Serves 6.
SCALLOPS NEWBURG
500 g (1 lb) scallops
60 g (2 oz) butter
1 sprig fresh thyme
1 sprig parsley
2 tablespoons brandy
2 tablespoons Madeira or sweet sherry
1 cup cream
2 egg yolks
½ cup fresh breadcrumbs
2 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese
Remove any brown parts from scallops, keeping coral. Melt butter in a saucepan, add scallops, herbs, brandy and Madeira or sherry, cover and simmer for 1 minute. Blend cream with egg yolks in top of a double saucepan and thicken over a low heat, stirring constantly. Arrange scallop mixture in a flameproof dish. Pour cream sauce over scallops and sprinkle with a mixture of breadcrumbs and cheese. Place under a preheated grill until top is golden-brown. Serves 4.
SCALOPPINE
The Italian name for the thinly beaten veal steak that the French call escalope; the tiny ones, escapolines in French, become piccate in Italy. Italian cooks use scaloppine to make exquisite quick dishes, both simple and sumptuous. For description and basic preparation, see Escalope.
SCALOPPINE PASSETTO
4 large scaloppini
1 tablespoon flour
8 slices prosciutto or ham deluxe
8 thin slices mozzarella cheese
½ teaspoon dried sage
salt and freshly ground black pepper
butter
½ cup grated Parmesan cheese
Cut each scaloppine in half. Sprinkle with flour and place between 2 sheets of plastic wrap. Flatten with a cutlet bat, rolling pin or flat side of a meat mallet. Place a slice of prosciutto then mozzarella cheese on each steak and sprinkle with sage, salt and pepper. Roll up each steak and secure with a wooden toothpick. Heat enough butter in a frying pan to cover bottom generously. Quickly sauté veal rolls in 2 batches, until they are browned on all sides. Place rolls in an ovenproof dish and sprinkle with Parmesan cheese and a little melted butter. Bake in a preheated moderately hot oven (190°C/375°F) for 10 minutes and serve piping hot. Serves 4.
SALTIMBOCCA
The name means ‘jump in the mouth’: it is so quick to cook, it jumps into the pan and then into the mouth.
6 large scaloppini, halved and beaten flat
12 slices prosciutto
12 leaves fresh sage
75 g (2½ oz) butter
salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ cup dry white wine
Cover each slice of veal with a slice of prosciutto and place a sage leaf on each. Secure with wooden toothpicks. Heat 60 g (2 oz) butter in a frying pan, add veal slices when foam subsides and brown quickly, for about 2 minutes on each side. Season very lightly with salt and generously with pepper. Arrange slices, ham side up, on a heated serving dish. Remove toothpicks and keep saltimbocca warm. Add wine to pan and boil for 1–2 minutes, stirring and scraping up brown bits with a wooden spoon. Season with salt and pepper. Remove from heat and swirl in remaining butter. Pour sauce over meat and serve immediately. Serves 6.
SCALOPPINE WITH MARSALA (SCALOPPINE ALLA MARSALA)
A famous Sicilian treatment of scaloppine, using the fortified wine which originated on the island.
4 large scaloppini, halved and beaten flat
salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 eggs, beaten
3 tablespoons flour
45 g (1½ oz) butter
½ cup dry Marsala or sherry
½ cup beef stock or consommé
Season scaloppini with salt and pepper, dip in beaten egg and coat with flour. Heat about 30 g (1 oz) butter in a frying pan (use enough butter to cover completely) and brown meat, taking care not to burn, for about 5 minutes on each side. When well browned, add Marsala and swirl liquid round so that it will be thickened by flour and butter. Remove scaloppini to heated plates. Add stock and remaining butter to pan, scraping brown bits from bottom and sides. Swirl to make gravy and pour over meat. Serves 4.
PICCATA IN TOMATO CREAM SAUCE (PICCATA CON POMODORO)
A much-loved Italian dish.
18 piccate, beaten flat
salt and freshly ground black pepper
flour
125 g (4 oz) butter
½ cup dry white wine
½ cup Brown Stock
1 tablespoon chopped golden shallot
4 ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped
pinch sugar
1 cup cream
2 tablespoons lemon juice
Season piccate with salt and pepper and dust with flour. Reserve about 1 tablespoon butter and heat remainder in a large frying pan over fairly high heat. Brown veal, a few slices at a time, for about 2 minutes on each side. Remove slices to a heated serving platter and keep hot. Add wine and stock to pan and boil rapidly until reduced by half. Add shallot and tomatoes, season with sugar, salt and pepper and cook for about 5 minutes. Add cream, reduce heat slightly and simmer for 5 minutes longer. Remove from heat, add lemon juice and swirl in reserved butter bit by bit. Pour sauce over piccate and serve immediately. Serves 6.
PICCATA WITH PARSLEY AND LEMON (PICCATA AL PREZZEMOLO E LIMONE)
18 piccate, beaten flat
salt and freshly ground black pepper
flour
125 g (4 oz) butter cup lemon juice
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
Season piccate with salt and pepper and dust with flour. Set aside about 1 tablespoon butter and heat remainder in a large, heavy frying pan. Brown veal, a few pieces at a time, for about 2 minutes each side. Transfer meat to a heated serving platter and keep warm. Add lemon juice and parsley to pan, remove from heat and swirl in reserved butter bit by bit. Pour over veal and serve immediately. Serves 6.
SCAMPI
See Prawns.
SCHNITZEL
A favourite dish in Germany and Austria, schnitzel uses the same thin cut of veal as the French escalope and the Italian scaloppine.The Viennese version, Wienerschnitzel, is found on menus all over the world.
VIENNA SCHNITZEL (WIENERSCHNITZEL)
Some cooks coat their schnitzels with fine fresh breadcrumbs, some with dry breadcrumbs. In either case, the crumbs should be sieved first so that the coating will cook to an even golden-brown – if crumbs are of uneven size, some will darken too much. The crumbed schnitzels are left for 20–30 minutes before frying to allow the egg to harden so that the coating will stay on when cooked. It should puff up in a few places, but never fall away from the veal. Schnitzels can be fried in butter, butter and oil, vegetable shortening or lard.
4 large or 8 small schnitzels, beaten flat to about 3 mm (
in) thick
juice 1 lemon (optional)
2 eggs
2 tablespoons cold water
4 tablespoons vegetable oil
seasoned flour
fine, sieved fresh or dry breadcrumbs
60 g (2 oz) butter
4 thin lemon wedges to garnish
If desired, marinate schnitzels in lemon juice for 30 minutes before coating. Beat eggs with water, and beat in 2 tablespoons oil if liked – the oil is supposed to hold breading on securely and help make it crisp. Dry schnitzel well, then coat on both sides with seasoned flour and pat off excess. Dip into egg mixture, allow excess to drip off then dip into breadcrumbs, firming them on with your hand. Chill for 30 minutes. Heat remaining oil in a large frying pan, add butter and when foam begins to subside, add schnitzels; do not overcrowd pan; cook them in 2 batches if necessary. Cook for 2–4 minutes on each side until golden-brown. Put finished schnitzels, uncovered, into a low oven to keep hot while the rest are being fried. Arrange schnitzels on a heated serving platter and garnish with lemon wedges. Serve immediately. Serves 4.
VARIATIONS
HOLSTEIN SCHNITZEL: Follow recipe for Vienna Schnitzel. Garnish each schnitzel with a fried egg topped with 2 crossed anchovy fillets, and sprinkle with a few capers.
CHEESE SCHNITZEL: Follow recipe for Vienna Schnitzel, but use ¾ cup breadcrumbs mixed with ½ cup grated Parmesan cheese instead of plain breadcrumbs to coat them. Before serving, sprinkle with a little grated cheese and some paprika, and a slice of lemon.
ALMOND SCHNITZEL: Follow recipe for Vienna Schnitzel. Garnish each schnitzel with slivered almonds fried in butter.
PLAIN SCHNITZEL (NATURSCHNITZEL)
Purists say that a true naturschnitzel should be floured on one side only, the floured side being browned first, since if both sides are floured the second one will be soggy.
4 large or 8 small schnitzels, beaten flat to about 5 mm (¼ in) thick
seasoned flour
butter
½ cup beef or veal stock
salt and freshly ground black pepper
lemon juice
Flour schnitzels on one side and pat off excess. Brown both sides slowly (floured side first) in hot butter. Keep finished schnitzels hot in a low oven while you make the sauce. Add 30 g (1 oz) butter to pan and when it begins to bubble up, add stock, stir, and scrape up brown bits from bottom of pan. Season with salt, pepper and lemon juice. Bring to the boil and pour over schnitzels. Serve immediately. Serves 4.
VARIATION
CREAM SCHNITZEL: Substitute ½ cup sour cream for ½ cup stock when making sauce.
SCONES
The fragrance of freshly baked scones promises a treat that is never out of style. These most popular of quick breads can be mixed and baked in 15 minutes to enjoy with tea or coffee, or to provide hot savoury snacks or even the basis of a casual meal. Hot scones with cream and a good berry jam make that delight known the world over as Devonshire Tea. The original West England version uses clotted cream, but whipped cream does very well.
SCONES
3 cups self-raising flour
1 teaspoon salt
60 g (2 oz) butter
1¼ cups milk or buttermilk
Sift flour and salt into a bowl. Rub in butter. Add nearly all the milk at once and mix in quickly with a knife. Add remaining milk only if necessary to mix to a soft dough. Turn onto a floured board and knead by turning and pressing with heel of hand 3 or 4 times. Pat out to a round 2 cm (¾ in) thick and cut into 4 cm (1½ in) rounds with a floured cutter. Place scones close together on a lightly greased baking tray. Brush tops with a little milk and bake in the top of a preheated very hot oven (230°C/450°F) for 10–15 minutes or until well risen and golden. For soft scones, wrap in a tea-towel as soon as they come from oven. For crusty scones, do not wrap; cool on a wire rack. Serve warm with butter or with jam and cream. Makes 12.
VARIATIONS
FRUIT SCONES: Follow recipe for Scones, but stir in 1 tablespoon sugar and ½ cup sultanas or other dried fruit after rubbing in butter. A little grated orange or lemon rind, or mixed spice, may also be added.
CHEESE SCONES: Follow recipe for Scones, but stir in cup grated well-flavoured cheese, ¼ teaspoon dry mustard and a good grinding of black pepper or a pinch of cayenne after rubbing in butter. Bake scones in a preheated hot oven (220°C/ 425°F) for about 10 minutes.
CHEESE-TOPPED SCONE LOAF: Prepare dough as for Cheese Scones, place on a lightly greased baking sheet, and shape into a round or rectangular loaf 2.5 cm (1 in) thick. Mix together 45 g (1½ oz) softened butter, a pinch of salt, ½ cup grated cheese, and a pinch of cayenne, dry mustard and nutmeg. Spread mixture over loaf. Sprinkle with a little paprika and bake in a preheated hot oven (220°C/ 425°F) for 12–18 minutes. Cool on a wire rack. Serve cut in slices and buttered.
HERB SCONES: Follow recipe for Scones, but add 1 tablespoon chopped mixed fresh herbs, or 1 teaspoon dried herbs with 1 tablespoon chopped parsley, 2 teaspoons finely chopped shallot and 1 teaspoon sugar after rubbing in butter. Serve with morning coffee or as a savoury alternative at tea time.
CRUSTED ORANGE SCONES: Follow recipe for Scones, but add 1 tablespoon sugar after rubbing in butter, and use ¼ cup orange juice and ¾ cup milk for the liquid. Press a piece of loaf sugar dipped in orange juice on top of each scone before baking.
SPICED FRUIT PINWHEELS: Prepare dough as for Scones. Roll out to a rectangle 5 mm (¼ in) thick, brush with melted butter and sprinkle with sugar and cinnamon. Sprinkle with mixed dried fruit, roll up and cut into 2 cm (¾ in) thick slices. Place, cut sides up, in a greased, shallow baking tin and bake in a preheated hot oven (220°C/425°F) for 10–12 minutes or until browned.
WHOLEMEAL SCONES
2 cups self-raising flour
½ teaspoon salt
1½ cups wholemeal self-raising flour
90 g (3 oz) butter
1¼ cups milk
Sift self-raising flour and salt into a mixing bowl. Stir in wholemeal flour. Rub in butter, then make well in centre and add sufficient milk to mix to a soft but not sticky dough. Turn onto a lightly floured board and knead gently. Pat out into a round shape, 2–2.5 cm (¾ –1 in) thick. Place on a floured baking tray and mark into 8–12 triangles with a sharp, floured knife. Bake in a preheated hot oven (200°C/400°F) for 25–30 minutes or until firm to touch. Cool on wire rack. Break into triangles, split in half and spread with butter or serve with whipped cream and home-made jam. Makes 8–12.
NOTE: Variations given for Scones may be used for Wholemeal Scones.
GEM SCONES
For these little ‘gems’ you need the special irons that have been part of Australia’s cooking scene for generations. Country cooks treasure them: many are passed from mother to daughter. You can use small patty tins instead, heating them in the oven first.
30 g (1 oz) butter
2 tablespoons sugar
1 egg
pinch salt
½ cup milk
1 cup self-raising flour
Heat gem scone irons in a preheated hot oven (200°C/400°F). Cream butter with sugar. Add egg, salt and milk and combine with creamed mixture. Sift flour and fold lightly into mixture until blended. Grease hot irons well, then spoon mixture in to three-quarters fill each cup. Bake in hot oven for 10–15 minutes. Serve warm with butter. Makes 12.
PUMPKIN SCONES
60 g (2 oz) butter
2 tablespoons caster sugar
¾ cup cold cooked, mashed pumpkin (well drained)
1 egg, beaten
½ cup milk
2½ cups self-raising flour, sifted
½ teaspoon cinnamon
½ teaspoon nutmeg
little milk to glaze
Cream butter with sugar. Add pumpkin and mix well. Add egg, then stir in milk a little at a time. Add flour and spices and mix to a soft dough. Turn out onto a floured board and knead lightly, then roll out to about 2 cm (¾ in) thickness. Cut into rounds with a floured scone cutter. Place rounds on a greased baking tray, brush tops with milk and bake in a preheated hot oven (200°C/400°F) for 15–20 minutes or until golden-brown on top and cooked through. Serve hot, split and buttered. Makes about 20.
SAVOURY SCONE RING
Scone mixture
2 cups self-raising flour
1 teaspoon salt
pinch cayenne
60 g (2 oz) butter
½ cup grated cheese
1 egg, lightly beaten
¾ cup milk
Filling
125 g (4 oz) salami, luncheon sausage or corned beef, finely diced
2–3 gherkins, finely diced
2 teaspoons melted butter
2 teaspoons finely chopped parsley
1 small onion, finely chopped
¼ cup grated cheese
1 tablespoon tomato sauce
1 teaspoon French mustard
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Sift flour, salt and cayenne into a bowl. Rub in butter and stir in cheese. Mix egg and milk; reserve about 1 tablespoon and stir remainder into flour mixture with a knife. Pat dough out to a rectangle about 20 × 30 cm (8 × 12 in).
To make filling, mix ingredients together and spread over dough. Roll up from a long side and form into a ring, pressing ends together to join. Cut two-thirds of the way through ring at 3 cm (1¼ in) intervals and spread slices a little apart. Brush with reserved egg and milk. Place on a greased baking tray and bake in a preheated moderately hot oven (190°C/370°F) for 30–35 minutes. Serve scone ring warm. Makes 10 slices.
FRUIT AND NUT TEA RING
Scone mixture
2 cups self-raising flour
pinch salt
60 g (2 oz) butter
¼ cup sugar
½ cup finely chopped dates or raisins
1 egg yolk
¾ cup milk
Filling
30 g (1 oz) butter, melted cup firmly packed brown sugar
¼ cup finely chopped walnuts
1 teaspoon cinnamon
Glaze
egg white
white sugar
Sift flour and salt into a bowl. Rub in butter and stir in sugar and dates or raisins. Mix egg yolk and milk and stir in quickly with a knife. Pat out dough to a rectangle 2 cm (¾ in) thick.
To make filling, mix ingredients and spread over. Roll up from a long side and form into a ring, pressing ends together to join. Cut two-thirds of the way through ring at 3 cm (1¼ in) intervals and spread slices a little way apart. Brush with egg white and sprinkle with sugar. Place on a greased baking tray and bake in a preheated very hot oven (220°C/425°F) for 20–25 minutes. Serve warm. Makes 10 slices.
CRUSTED STEAK SQUARES
750 g (1½ lb) minced steak
¼ cup diced green or red peppers
1 small onion, finely chopped
1 cup finely chopped mushrooms
½ cup grated cheese
1 tablespoon tomato sauce
2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
½ cup fresh breadcrumbs
1 egg
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
double quantity Scones dough
milk to glaze
Mix steak with vegetables, cheese, sauces, breadcrumbs, egg, salt and pepper. Press into bottom of a greased, shallow square or rectangular baking dish to make a layer about 2 cm (¾ in) thick. Pat out scone dough to size of dish and place on meat mixture. Brush with milk and bake in a preheated very hot oven (220°C/450°F) for 10 minutes. Reduce heat to moderate (180°C/350°F) and continue baking for 20–25 minutes. Cut into squares to serve. Serves 8.
SCOTCH EGG
See Sausage.
SEA URCHIN
A small creature with a hard, spiny shell, found on rocky coastal shores. Despite their ferocious appearance, sea urchins are edible, and must be prised from the rocks. Wearing strong gloves, cut them horizontally across the middle with kitchen shears. Drain them, and scoop out the orange-pink coral, which is the only edible part. The coral is usually scooped out and eaten raw, with a dash of lemon juice if desired, and fresh crusty bread. Sea urchins are commonly used in Mediterranean countries, being added to a fish soup or an omelette, or used as a basis of a sauce for cooked fish.
SEMOLINA
A cereal obtained from wheat grains in the middle stages of flour-milling when the bran, wheat germ and endosperm (the floury part of the grain) are separated. The first millings of the creamy-coloured endosperm are known as semolina.
Semolina can be purchased fine, medium or coarse ground, and is used to make some types of Gnocchi, as well as breads, puddings and cakes, the latter two particularly in the Middle East and India. Semolina made from hard durum wheat is used commercially for pasta, and flour-coated coarse semolina grains make couscous, an integral part of substantial stews and some desserts in North Africa. Couscous is available from Middle Eastern and Greek grocery stores (see Couscous). Buy semolina ready-packed or in bulk from supermarkets, delicatessens or health food shops.
INDIAN HALVA
½ cup sugar
1¼ cups plus 1 teaspoon water
8 cardamom pods, bruised
¼ teaspoon saffron threads
125 g (4 oz) ghee, or ½ cup oil
¾ cup semolina
¼ cup blanched pistachio nuts, shredded
30 g (1 oz) slivered almonds
Dissolve sugar in 1¼ cups water, add cardamom pods, and boil for 5 minutes. Remove from heat and cool, then strain, reserving cardamom pods. Heat saffron in a spoon over a direct heat, then pound in a small bowl with remaining water to a paste. Stir into strained syrup. Heat ghee or oil in a saucepan and stir in semolina. Cook over a gentle heat until semolina thickens and mixture is creamy. Add syrup and stir over high heat until mixture is thoroughly incorporated. Remove seeds from cardamom pods and crush seeds with a rolling pin. Stir into semolina mixture with pistachios and almonds. Serve warm, piled into individual sweet dishes, or spread out into a thick oblong and leave to cool completely before cutting into diamonds or squares. Serves 8–10.
NOTE: ¼ teaspoon powdered saffron may be used in place of saffron threads. Dissolve in 1 teaspoon water and stir into strained syrup.
GREEK WALNUT CAKE
250 g (8 oz) butter
1 cup caster sugar
1 teaspoon grated orange rind
4 eggs, separated
1 cup flour
1 cup fine semolina
4 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon cinnamon
½ cup milk
2 cups coarsely ground walnuts
Syrup
1 cup sugar
1 cup water
2 whole cloves
5 cm (2 in) cinnamon stick
1 tablespoon lemon juice
thin strip lemon rind
Cream butter with sugar and orange rind until light and fluffy. Add egg yolks, beating well after each addition. Sift flour, semolina, baking powder and cinnamon. Fold into creamed mixture alternately with milk, and add walnuts, mixing gently. Beat egg whites until stiff and fold into mixture. Pour into a well-greased 33 × 23 × 5 cm (13 × 9 × 2 in) baking dish. Bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for 45 minutes or until a fine skewer inserted in centre comes out clean.
To make syrup, combine ingredients in a heavy saucepan and stir over medium heat until sugar dissolves. Bring to the boil and boil over moderately high heat for 10 minutes. Strain. Remove cake from oven and pour hot syrup over cake while still in tin. Allow to cool in tin. When cold, cut into square or diamond shapes.
SEMOLINA CAKE
125 g (4 oz) butter
½ cup caster sugar
1 tablespoon grated orange rind
2 eggs
2 tablespoons brandy
1 cup semolina
1 teaspoon baking powder
125 g (4 oz) ground almonds
Syrup
½ cup sugar
1¼ cups orange juice
3 tablespoons Grand Marnier, Cointreau or brandy
Cream butter with sugar and orange rind until light and fluffy. Beat in eggs one at a time, beating thoroughly after each addition. Stir in brandy. Combine semolina, baking powder and almonds and fold lightly into egg mixture. Turn into greased and lined 20 cm (8 in) round cake tin. Place in a preheated hot oven (200°C/400°F), then lower heat to moderate (180°C/350°F) and bake for 30 minutes or until golden on top and a fine skewer inserted in centre comes out clean.
To make syrup, place sugar and juice in a heavy saucepan, bring to the boil, stirring occasionally, and boil briskly for 5 minutes. Cool slightly, then stir in spirits. Leave cake in tin and pour syrup over, then return to oven and bake for a further 15 minutes. Remove from oven and allow cake to cool in tin. Turn out for serving, sliced, on its own or accompanied by whipped cream flavoured with 1 teaspoon grated orange rind.
GREEK HALVA
1 cup sugar
2½ cups water
125 g (4 oz) butter
1 cup coarse semolina
2 tablespoons pine nuts or raw peanuts
1 teaspoon cinnamon
extra cinnamon to dredge
Dissolve sugar in water and bring to the boil. Boil for 5 minutes, then set aside. Melt butter in a heavy saucepan and stir in semolina and nuts. Stir constantly over moderate heat for 10–15 minutes or until semolina is a golden-brown. Remove from heat. Reheat sugar syrup to boiling and pour into semolina, off the heat, stirring constantly. Add 1 teaspoon cinnamon and stir over low heat until smooth and bubbling. Cook very gently for 2 minutes. Turn off heat, cover pan with a clean folded tea-towel and put lid on. Leave for 15 minutes. Spread halva in a laming-ton tin. Decorate top using tines of a fork to make a crisscross pattern. Sprinkle with cinnamon and leave until cool. Cut into 5 cm (2 in) diamond shapes to serve. Makes about 20 pieces.
SEMOLINA SHORTBREAD
125 g (4 oz) ghee or butter
½ cup sugar
1 cup fine semolina, sifted
¼ cup flour, sifted
1 teaspoon ground cardamom
Cream ghee or butter with sugar until light. Add semolina, flour and cardamom and mix well. Leave for 30 minutes. Take a scant tablespoon of mixture, roll into a ball, then flatten slightly and put on an ungreased baking tray. Repeat with remaining mixture, leaving a little space around biscuits. Bake in a preheated slow oven (150°C/300°F) for about 30 minutes or until pale golden. Cool on a wire rack. Makes about 24.
SEMOLINA PUDDING
2¼ cups milk
3 tablespoons coarse or fine semolina
15 g (½ oz) butter
1 egg, separated
pinch nutmeg, or ½ teaspoon grated lemon rind
1 tablespoon sugar
caster sugar to dredge
Heat milk, stir in semolina and cook over gentle heat, stirring occasionally, for 5–6 minutes. Remove from heat and beat in butter, egg yolk, nutmeg or lemon rind and sugar. Whisk egg white until stiff and fold into mixture. Turn into a well-buttered 4-cup ovenproof dish and sprinkle top with caster sugar. Bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for 15–20 minutes or until top is lightly browned and slightly puffy. Serves 4.
SESAME
The seeds of the sesame plant have a multitude of uses. Their nutty flavour and crunchy texture are always appreciated, whether sprinkled over the top of cooked vegetables or salads, scattered over breads and biscuits, or thickly mixed with toffee to make sticky sweets.
Sesame seeds have a high oil content, and contain protein and minerals. They are crushed to yield either a pale-coloured, almost flavourless oil which may be used for cooking or salads (it contains a high proportion of unsaturated oils), or a quite different, darker, more viscous and strongly flavoured oil, frequently used in Chinese cooking. This latter oil is sold as ‘Oriental’ or ‘Chinese’ sesame oil.
Sesame seeds may also be crushed to produce a thick, oily paste known as Tahini, which is very widely used in the Middle East.
Ways to use sesame seeds: Toasting, or frying in butter, brings out the flavour of sesame seeds.
• Lightly cooked carrot sticks are delicious when tossed with butter and sesame seeds.
• Fried sesame seeds may be added to mashed potato or sprinkled on a cauliflower au gratin.
• Yogurt may be topped with honey and toasted sesame seeds, or they may be mixed into a fruit salad.
• A simple sweet is made by cooking honey to a toffee and adding an equal amount of sesame seeds.
SESAME CHICKEN WITH RICE NOODLES
This soup/stew from China’s Fukien province is said to rejuvenate the body. The pungent, nutty sesame oil beautifully offsets the chicken and delicate rice noodles.
750 g (1½ lb) chicken joints (thighs, breasts)
250 g (8 oz) Chinese rice noodles
1 tablespoon dark Oriental sesame oil
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 tablespoon shredded fresh ginger
½ cup Chinese rice wine or dry sherry
3 cups chicken stock
1 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon salt
1 small bunch spinach or silverbeet, chopped
With a cleaver or heavy knife chop chicken into bite-size pieces. Soak noodles in warm water to cover for 5 minutes, and drain in a colander. Heat sesame oil with vegetable oil in a wok until it forms a haze. Add ginger and stir-fry for 30 seconds, then add chicken and stir-fry for about 3 minutes or until pieces are golden. Add wine, bring to the boil and add stock, sugar and salt. Simmer for 30 minutes or until chicken is tender. Stir in noodles and cook for 5 minutes. Stir in spinach, remove wok from heat and stand for a few minutes. Ladle mixture into heated bowls. Serves 3–4.