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PAELLA

A traditional Spanish rice dish that has become famous all over the world. The ingredients, apart from rice flavoured with olive oil, onion, garlic and saffron, vary from region to region, and even from family to family. Paella from coastal regions usually contains seafood, poultry and a spicy Spanish sausage such as chorizo. Paella from inland Spain often contains meat, chicken, sausage and vegetables. Paella takes its name from the utensil in which it is cooked – a large two-handled, heavy frying pan – but it can be cooked successfully in any frying pan large enough to take all the ingredients. Use Calasparra or Arborio rice for preference. Paella makes an excellent buffet dish, and only a salad and dessert or cheese are needed to complete the meal.

PAELLA VALENCIANA

good pinch saffron, crumbled
5 cups chicken stock
½ cup olive oil
6 half-breasts of chicken, or 4 small pork chops, cut in half
2 onions, chopped
2 cloves garlic, chopped
2 tomatoes, peeled and chopped
4½ cups short-grain rice
salt and freshly ground black pepper
250 g (8 oz) shelled fresh peas
500 g (1 lb) cooked prawns
500 g (1 lb) squid, cleaned and sliced
1 chorizo or peperoni, sliced
3 canned pimientos, drained and sliced
1 cooked crab or crayfish tail (optional)
1 lemon, quartered

Put saffron and stock into a large saucepan. Bring to the boil and allow stock to take on colour of saffron. Heat oil in either a paella pan or large frying pan. When very hot sauté chicken breasts or pork until golden-brown. Remove and add onions, garlic and tomatoes. When onions are softened, add rice, combine with other ingredients and fry for 3–5 minutes. Add stock mixture and season with salt and pepper. Spread rice evenly to the edge of the pan and return chicken or pork with peas. Cook on a medium heat until rice has absorbed nearly all the liquid in the pan.

At this stage start decorating paella. Arrange chicken breasts or pork pieces to form a star in the centre. Add prawns, squid, slices of peperoni, strips of pimiento and lastly crab meat with legs and cracked claws, or crayfish tail cut in sections. Do not stir at this stage as the decorations are a feature of the paella and must not be disturbed. Continue cooking until rice is tender and other ingredients are cooked. If rice appears too dry or if foods don’t appear to be cooking sufficiently add a little more stock. Just before serving garnish with lemon quarters. Serves 8–10.

NOTE: The tiny squid tentacles make a pretty flower-like decoration in the paella.

PALM HEARTS

The pale, tender hearts of the cabbage palm. In many tropical climates these are available fresh. For visitors from more temperate climates who have a cabbage palm in the garden at home, it is intriguing to see these little palms cut down for the delicate, creamy white hearts that find their way to the table – each palm tree has but one heart!

Canned palm hearts are available in most delicatessens, and may be used as a garnish or in a mixed salad with a variety of salad greens, or as an appetiser salad. They may be served whole, halved lengthways or cut into circles.

Salad of Palm Hearts: Drain canned palm hearts, halved or sliced, toss with Vinaigrette Dressing and chill. Line bowl with washed and dried salad greens, arrange palm hearts on top and pour over dressing. Garnish with fresh herbs, slivers of pimiento, peeled prawns or fine strips of ham.

PALM HEARTS AND BEETROOT SALAD WITH HORSERADISH CREAM

1 mignonette lettuce
8 canned palm hearts, halved lengthways
3 small cooked beetroots, peeled, quartered and sliced
Dressing
¾ cup cream
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 tablespoon bottled horseradish, or to taste salt and freshly ground white pepper
2 tablespoons olive oil

Line 4 salad plates with lettuce leaves. Divide palm hearts between plates, arranging them decoratively. Scatter beetroot decoratively over palm hearts.

To make dressing, whisk together cream, lemon juice, horseradish, salt and pepper for 10 seconds or until mixture is frothy. Add olive oil, drop by drop, whisking, and whisk dressing until it is well combined. Spoon it over the salad. Serves 4.

HEARTS OF PALM SALAD DELUXE

1 × 425 g can palm hearts, chilled, drained and cut into matchsticks
2 tablespoons lemon juice
½ cup cream, whipped
¼ teaspoon celery seeds
¼ teaspoon sugar
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
½ teaspoon fresh or canned seedless grapes
¼ cup toasted, shredded almonds

Sprinkle palm hearts with lemon juice. Fold together the remaining ingredients, reserving 1 tablespoon almonds. Transfer to a serving bowl and sprinkle with reserved almonds. Serves 4–6.

PANCAKES

Nearly every country in the world has its own version of pancakes. They are endlessly versatile and range from Chinese egg rolls to the sophisticated Crêpes Suzette of France, which many people consider to be the ultimate pancake variation. Pancakes usually have a thick, fluffy texture and can be sweet or savoury. They can be served stacked or rolled, with a sauce, or served flat with a topping; their thin, lacy relative, crêpes, are usually rolled or folded around a filling.

Russian Blini, made from buckwheat and served with sour cream and caviar; Jewish Blintzes, with creamy cheese filling, and topped with conserve and sour cream; Griddle Cakes, Flapjacks and Pikelets are all part of the pancake family (see separate entries for recipes).Whatever variation you choose, pancakes have delicious possibilities for parties, snacks and for every course of a meal, every meal of the day.

The pancake pan: Use a heavy, flat pan, preferably made from cast iron, with sides about 1 cm (½ in) high and about 18 cm (7 in) in diameter. A cast-iron pan should be kept only for making pancakes and their variations. Do not wash after use: simply rub it with paper towels and a few drops of oil. If the pan becomes sticky, rub with salt first and finish with oil.

To season a new pan: Fill with oil and heat to smoking point. Turn off heat and stand for 24 hours. Pour off the oil, and wipe well with paper towels.

To toss pancakes: Some people consider the best way to turn over a pancake during cooking is to toss it. Pour the batter from a jug into the pan, tilting the pan to coat the bottom evenly. When bubbles appear on top of the batter and it begins to set, shake the pan to make sure the pancake is not sticking and has browned underneath. Jerk the pan forwards quickly until the pancake moves onto the downward sloping part of the pan. Flip the pancake over with a quick movement of the wrist so that the uncooked side is now underneath. This takes practice.

To store pancakes: Store as for Crêpes (p.129)

To reheat pancakes: Place on a baking tray, cover with foil and warm in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for 5 minutes. Or place a stack of 3–4 pancakes on a heatproof plate, cover with another plate and warm over boiling water for 8–10 minutes.

See also Crêpes.

Sweet Pancake Toppings: Squeeze lemon juice over and sprinkle with sugar; spread with butter and pour on hot maple syrup; top with warm mincemeat (see Mincemeat) and a spoonful of whipped cream; spread with lemon cheese and top with whipped cream; spread with apple purée, sprinkle with cinnamon and top with sour cream; spread with sour cream and brown sugar, top with sliced strawberries or pineapple pieces; spread with thick cream and top with warmed apricot, plum or blackberry jam.

BASIC PANCAKES

1 cup flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
1 egg
1½ cups milk
15 g (½ oz) butter, melted
oil for frying

Sift flour, baking powder and salt into a bowl. Make a well in the centre and add egg, milk and melted butter. Using a wooden spoon, gradually draw in flour. Beat well, cover and leave to stand for 1 hour.

Grease and heat pancake pan. Pour batter into a jug and pour in enough batter while tilting the pan, to coat the bottom. Cook for about 1 minute or until small bubbles appear on the surface, then flip over using a metal spatula or toss. Place cooked pancake on a clean tea-towel, fold ends over to cover and continue making pancakes. Drop each directly on top of the last and fold towel over to cover again. Makes 10–12 × 18 cm (7 in) or 14–16 × 15 cm (6 in) pancakes.

CHINESE EGG ROLLS

1 cup flour
2 tablespoons cornflour
½ teaspoon salt
2 eggs, lightly beaten
2 cups water
oil for deep-frying
2 spring onions, sliced, to garnish

Filling

¾ cup cooked prawns, shelled, de-veined and finely chopped
½ cup finely diced celery
cup minced pork
cup minced canned water chestnuts
cup minced canned bamboo shoots
2 teaspoons dry sherry
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon grated onion
1 egg

Sift flour, cornflour and salt into a bowl and mix in eggs and water. The batter should be as thin as cream; if it is not add a little more water. Cook pancakes as for Basic Pancakes (above), cooking on one side only. Cool on a wire rack.

To make filling, combine all ingredients, using the hands and mixing well. Form into little finger-shaped rolls. Put a roll on the cooked side of each pancake and roll up, tucking in edges to seal in filling. Seal with beaten egg or any leftover batter mixture, Chill for 2–3 hours. Pour enough oil into a deep saucepan to come 5 cm (2 in) up the sides. Heat oil until a bread cube dropped in turns brown in 1 minute. Deep-fry the rolls in batches for about 5 minutes or until golden-brown. Drain on paper towels and serve immediately, garnished with sliced spring onions and bowls of soy and chilli sauces for dipping. Makes about 20.

HUNGARIAN PANCAKE PIE

When you’re in the mood to show off to dinner guests, make this superb dessert from Middle Europe. Pancakes are layered with sweet fillings and baked with a coating of meringue. To serve, cut into wedges like a cake.

12–14 × 18 cm (7 in) Basic Pancakes (above)
¾ cup apricot or plum jam
125 g (4 oz) dark chocolate, grated
125 g (4 oz) walnuts or pecans, crushed
1 cup chopped raisins
1 cup cream, whipped
4 egg whites
½ cup sugar

Place the first pancake on a greased baking tray. Spread with a little jam and sprinkle with chocolate. Place another pancake on top, and sprinkle with crushed nuts, a few raisins, and a spoonful of cream. Continue with these layers until pancakes are used up, leaving the top one plain. Beat egg whites to a froth, then beat in sugar a little at a time until they form firm peaks. Swirl egg white mixture over pancakes, making sure they are completely covered. Bake in a preheated hot oven (220°C/425°F) for 3–4 minutes or until meringue is lightly tipped with brown. Serves 6.

GREEN PANCAKES WITH CREAM CHEESE

1 cup flour
¼ teaspoon salt
1 egg
¾ cup milk
½ cup cooked, drained and puréed spinach leaves
butter for frying

Filling

500 g (1 lb) cream cheese
salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 tablespoons snipped chives

Make batter with flour, salt, beaten egg and milk, beating well until smooth. Stir in spinach purée and allow batter to stand for 30 minutes. In a separate bowl, beat cream cheese with salt and pepper, and stir in chives. Melt a little butter in a pancake or crêpe pan and cook pancakes as for Basic Pancakes. Put 2 tablespoons of the cheese filling on each pancake and roll up. Serve warm. Makes about 10 small pancakes.

FLUFFY CHICKEN PANCAKE PEKING

Serve this light Chinese pancake as a first course, or with rice and stir-fried vegetables as a main course.

3 egg whites
2 teaspoons dry sherry
¼ teaspoon salt
freshly ground black pepper
1 chicken fillet (skinless, boneless half-breast), minced
3 tablespoons peanut oil
¼ teaspoon Chinese sesame oil
shredded spring onions to garnish

Beat egg whites until foamy and mix thoroughly with sherry, salt, pepper and chicken. Heat 1½ tablespoons peanut oil in a small frying pan on medium heat. When moderately hot, add chicken mixture and tilt pan so that pancake is of even thickness. Cook until top is firm to touch (the underside should be barely coloured). Loosen edges with a metal spatula and slide pancake onto a plate. Add remaining peanut oil to pan and heat. Slide pancake back into pan, cooked side up. Cook for 1–2 minutes more, then slide pancake onto a heated platter. Sprinkle with sesame oil and serve immediately, garnished with shredded spring onions. Serves 2.

DUTCH APPLE PANCAKE CAKE

60 g (2 oz) butter
10 medium apples, peeled, cored and sliced
pared rind 1 lemon
3 tablespoons sugar
10 × 18 cm (7 in) Basic Pancakes
Apricot Glaze
whipped cream
toasted slivered almonds

Melt 45 g (1½ oz) butter in a saucepan, add apples and lemon rind and cook gently for about 10 minutes or until a thick purée has formed. Stir in sugar, remove lemon rind and rub through a sieve. Place a pancake on a heated serving dish and spread with apple purée. Continue layering pancakes and apple purée, ending with a pancake. Spread final pancake with a fine layer of apricot glaze. Pipe rosettes of whipped cream around top and decorate these with toasted slivered almonds. Serve pancake cake as soon as possible, cut into wedges. Pass around a bowl of lightly whipped cream separately. Serves 6.

SHROVE TUESDAY FRITTERS

This is a beautiful dish of deep-fried pancake strips dusted with icing sugar, served with a bowl of Kirsch-flavoured plum sauce.

8 × 18 cm (7 in) Basic Pancakes
oil for deep-frying
sifted icing sugar
Plum sauce
½ cup plum jam
½ cup water
1 piece pared lemon rind
juice ½ lemon
1 teaspoon arrowroot dissolved in 2 teaspoons water
1 tablespoon Kirsch

Roll up each pancake and cut into strips 1 cm (½ in) wide. Heat oil and when very hot put in 1 pancake strip. If oil sizzles immediately, it is hot enough. Add half the pancake strips and toss with a slotted spoon until golden all over. Remove from oil and drain on crumpled paper towels. Keep hot while frying remaining pancake strips. Serve warm, piled onto a dish and dusted with icing sugar. Accompany with plum sauce.

To make plum sauce, place jam, water, and lemon rind and juice in a saucepan and bring slowly to the boil. Thicken with arrowroot mixture and boil, stirring, until clear. Strain, flavour with Kirsch and serve sauce hot or cold. Serves 4–6.

SWEDISH PANCAKES

This is a famous Swedish dish customarily served with loganberries or fruit conserves. The pancake is extremely light and tender. The basic pancake can be varied by using a choice of flavourings.

3 eggs
1 cup milk
1 cup flour, sifted
¾ cup cream
90 g (3 oz) unsalted butter, melted
¼ teaspoon salt
oil for frying

Beat eggs with ½ cup milk for 2–3 minutes. Add flour all at once and beat until mixture is thick and smooth. Beat in remaining milk and cream, then stir in melted butter and salt. Cover and allow to stand for at least 2 hours. Very lightly grease a pancake pan, place over a high heat and when very hot, lower heat and drop in batter in small mounds. Immediately sprinkle surface of each pancake with flavouring, if using (see Variations).When pancakes begin to set and bubbles appear on surface, carefully lift each one and turn it over. Cook for a further 1–2 minutes to brown other side. Serve as soon as possible. Makes about 24.

VARIATIONS

Sprinkle these onto the batter as soon as it is placed in the pan: chopped mixed candied peel; crushed almond macaroons or amaretti; chopped toasted almonds; chopped dried apricots, soaked; or grated eating apple, unpeeled.

PANCETTA (ITALIAN BACON)

Pancetta is the same cut as bacon, the fat and lean meat from the back and side of the pig. It is cured the traditional Italian way (as for prosciutto crudo,) by rubbing with salt and sometimes spices, and leaving it to air-cure for the winter months, during which time the ‘cooking’ of the meat takes place. Coppa is a similar Italian-style product made with pork neck.

Both pancetta and coppa are usually cut into small lardons or strips and used in countless Italian soups, sauces, stews, and other meat and vegetable dishes (see Cabbage with Pancetta, Garlic and Rosemary).

RADICCHIO WITH PANCETTA AND EGG SALAD

2 heads radicchio
100 g (3½ oz) thickly cut pancetta, cut into thin strips
2 tablespoons olive oil
2–3 eggs, hard-boiled and quartered
3 teaspoons balsamic vinegar
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Wash and thoroughly dry the radicchio, and shred roughly into a shallow salad bowl. Fry the pancetta in a frying pan for 5 minutes, until the fat is running and the strips are crisp. Take it off the heat and stir in the olive oil, and then reheat slightly for 20 seconds. Pour this hot oil and pancetta all over the radicchio, stirring to mix it in. Scatter the eggs on top and toss. Sprinkle with the vinegar, season with salt and pepper, and toss again. Serve at once. Serves 3–4.

PANETONE (PANETTONE)

An Italian yeast cake, of Milanese origin, enriched with eggs and butter and studded with sultanas and candied peel. It is very similar to the German Gugelhopf, and is traditionally associated with Christmas. Imported Italian panetone may be found in most Italian delicatessens around Christmas time, and some Italian bakers make their own.

PANFORTE

See Siena Cake.

PANNA COTTA

This cream dessert set with gelatine is a delicious specialty of Piedmont. It may be flavoured with lemon or orange zest, chocolate, vanilla or a dash of liqueur. The skill in making this dessert relies on using just the right amount of gelatine so that it sets to a silky smoothness without being rubbery. See Gelatine.

PANNA COTTA

¼ cup water
3 teaspoons powdered gelatine
2 cups cream
1 cup milk
6 tablespoons caster sugar
a very little light salad oil
grated rind 1 lemon, or 1 teaspoon vanilla extract, or 2 tablespoons brandy or liqueur
sugared fresh berries (sliced strawberries, raspberries, blueberries) to serve

In a small bowl combine water and gelatine. Leave for 5 minutes. Slowly heat the cream and milk with the sugar in a saucepan over a moderate heat until it comes to scalding point, stirring occasionally. Remove from the heat and stir in the softened gelatine until well dissolved. Add choice of flavourings. Tip the contents of the pan into a bowl set over another bowl of ice cubes and stir occasionally until the mixture has cooled without starting to set.

Meanwhile have ready 6 individual dariole moulds or ramekins that have been lightly oiled. Pour the cooled mixture into the moulds and place in the refrigerator for several hours or overnight, until set. Unmould each panna cotta by dipping the base of the mould into hot water for 3–4 seconds, then turning upside-down to release onto a dessert plate. Surround with prepared berries to serve. Serves 6.

PAPPADAMS (PAPPADOMS, POPPADOMS, PODDADUMS)

These thin, lentil-flour rounds are available packaged in Asian grocery stores, health food stores and many supermarkets and delicatessens. When fried, they swell dramatically into crunchy golden wafers to eat with or crumble over curries and other Indian dishes. Packaged pappadams will keep for months in a cool, dry place. Once fried, they will keep crisp for a day or so in an airtight tin; if they soften, crisp them again in a low oven.

To fry: Heat about 2 cm (¾ in) deep oil in a wide pan. Have ready a bed of crumpled paper towels on several thicknesses of newspaper. Fry pappadams one at a time, pressing down with a fish slice or 2 spoons so that they will stay fairly flat. Fry for only a few seconds on each side until pappadams are a very pale gold (they will darken more after removing from oil). Drain on paper towels.

PAPRIKA

A spice made from a sweet variety of red pepper, grown widely in Europe. It should be a deep, rich red colour, with a mild, sweet aroma. The best paprika is said to come from Hungary, where it goes into the characteristic meat dish of that country, Goulash.

Paprika is also valued for its colour, which enlivens any pale, creamy-coloured dish. Potato salad, cauliflower au gratin or a dish of creamed chicken or fish is all the more appetising for a light sprinkle of paprika.

Always buy paprika in small quantities, since even the best, or ‘noble’, paprika loses its spicy qualities when stored very long. For that reason, the quantity of paprika for a recipe is not always specified precisely because it depends on individual tastes and the quality of the paprika.

CHICKEN PAPRIKA

1 roast chicken, cut into small joints
1 onion, chopped
30 g (1 oz) butter
1–2 teaspoons paprika
1 tablespoon flour
½ cup chicken stock
4 ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded and roughly chopped
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 clove garlic
1 bay leaf
½ cup sour cream

Keep chicken warm in turned-off oven. Cook onion in butter in a large saucepan until soft, add paprika and cook for 1 minute. Stir in flour, then remove from heat and add stock and tomatoes. Stir well. Return to heat and bring to the boil, stirring. Add salt, pepper, garlic and bay leaf. Simmer until reduced and thickened. Strain sauce and return to pan. Add chicken pieces and simmer for 15 minutes. Stir in sour cream just before serving with boiled rice or noodles. Serves 4.

VEAL CHOPS PAPRIKA

6 veal chops
2 tablespoons oil
2 onions, sliced
1 clove garlic, crushed
1 tablespoon flour
1 tablespoon paprika or to taste
4 ripe tomatoes, peeled and seeded
salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ cup sour cream

Brown chops in oil in a large frying pan on both sides, then remove. Add onions and cook until pale brown. Add garlic and return chops. Sprinkle with flour. Stir, then add paprika and cook for 2–3 minutes. Add tomatoes, salt and pepper, plus water if necessary just to cover chops. Cover pan and simmer gently for about 1 hour or until chops are tender. Just before serving, add sour cream and stir well but do not allow to boil. Serve with steamed potatoes or buttered noodles. Serves 6.

PARFAIT

A French term, meaning ‘perfect’, which was originally used only for a coffee ice cream, but later came to apply to all kinds of ice creams served in a tall glass or individual decorative dish.

Today, a parfait glass is usually a tall, narrow, short-stemmed glass, and an ice cream parfait is a combination of scoops of ice cream, a sauce such as chocolate, strawberry or caramel, whipped cream and sometimes chopped nuts or fresh fruit for decoration.

A very fine preparation of chicken or goose liver may also be termed a ‘parfait’.

PARSLEY

Surely the most popular and most widely grown herb; indeed, it is one of the essential herbs in the kitchen. Sprigs of parsley are part of a bouquet garni; fresh parsley is one of the ‘fines herbes’ (together with tarragon, chives and chervil); and parsley stalks are used for flavour in a court bouillon.

Parsley is a biennial herb, which means that it will yield for two years. It is easily grown from seed, and a parsley patch will be self-perpetuating if some plants are allowed to go to seed each year.

The principal varieties of parsley are the curly-leaved and flat-leaved, or Italian, parsley. The latter is usually more flavoursome, and is recommended for Mediterranean dishes such as tabouleh, while the curly-leaved parsley is often more attractive as a garnish.

Parsley is rich in vitamin C and minerals, and is said to be one of the best natural tonics. It is also said that chewing parsley can get rid of, or at least hide, a garlicky breath.

Small amounts of chopped parsley add flavour interest to mashed potatoes, steamed vegetables, scrambled eggs, omelettes, sauces, stuffings and salads. In large quantities, it goes into tabouleh and the jellied ham of Burgundy, jambon persillé (see Gelatine.).

See also Coriander (Chinese Parsley).

Basic preparation:

To chop parsley by hand:Wash parsley and dry in a cloth. Use a chopping board large enough to allow parsley to scatter a bit. Using a good cook’s knife, hold blade at both ends and, keeping pointed end on the board, chop with rapid up-and-down movements. Sweep parsley together and repeat until it is all chopped to desired fineness. Put parsley into a cloth and wring well to remove excess moisture – this ensures that it will not clump when sprinkled.

To chop parsley in a food processor: The food processor makes it easy to have chopped parsley always on hand – it is a good idea to chop about ½ cup at a time and store it ready to give instant colour and added nutrition to many dishes.

Do not wash parsley before chopping. Put into processor, fitted with steel blade, and process by switching rapidly on-off, on-off, until chopped to desired fineness. Wash in a sieve, put into a cloth and wring well to dry.

To store parsley: Wash and dry well, then wrap loosely in kitchen paper towels and store in a tightly closed plastic bag, with some air left in it, in the refrigerator. Best used within 1 week. Or freeze, chopped, in plastic bags or tubs, for up to 6 months.

Fried Parsley Garnish: Allow 2–3 sprigs per person. Wash and dry parsley sprigs between paper towels. Drop into very hot oil and fry very quickly, about 3 seconds – they should be crisp but not burnt. This is easy to manage if you place parsley in a sieve. Use as a garnish for fried fish and seafood.

Persillade Garnish: A mixture of finely chopped parsley and garlic or shallot added to pan-fried meat, fish or vegetables just before serving. This garnish is typical of southern French cuisine. Mushrooms, zucchini rounds, sliced squid and lamb chops all take well to a persillade treatment.

Parsley Sauce: Add very finely chopped parsley to a Béchamel or Velouté Sauce. Use with salted pork, corned beef or lamb, steamed fish, hard-boiled eggs or chicken.

PARSLEY AND LEMON STUFFING

Use for chicken or turkey – double quantities for a small turkey.

½ cup dry breadcrumbs
2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley
¼ teaspoon dried marjoram
¼ teaspoon chopped fresh lemon thyme
grated rind ½ lemon
2 teaspoons lemon juice
1 small egg
90 g (3 oz) butter, softened
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Combine breadcrumbs with parsley, marjoram, lemon thyme and lemon rind and juice. Beat in egg, then blend in softened butter. Season lightly with salt and pepper. Makes about ¾ cup.

PARSLEY AND GARLIC STUFFING

Use to stuff a boned leg or shoulder of lamb.

½ cup chopped parsley
1 sprig fresh thyme or rosemary, leaves only
2 tablespoons finely chopped shallots
1 clove garlic, crushed
¼ teaspoon ground ginger
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Combine all ingredients. Spread on lamb, roll up, tie and roast as usual. Makes about ¾ cup.

PARSNIP

A carrot-shaped, white root vegetable, most common in the winter months. It has a distinctive, slightly sweet and sometimes strong flavour, and makes a good accompaniment to most roast or grilled meats.

Parsnip may be added to a mixed vegetable soup or stew, but use only half as much parsnip as carrot. Julienne (matchsticks) of carrot and parsnip cooked in a little water until tender but still firm, then tossed with butter and finely chopped herbs, is a lovely winter vegetable dish – add the parsnip juliennes to the water about 1 minute after the carrot.

Young parsnips can be mashed like potatoes, with butter, cream, pepper, salt and chopped parsley. This also makes tasty Croquettes, in the same way as potato. Old parsnips are not always suitable for mashing, as they may have a hard, woody core, which should be cut away before cooking.

CREAMED PARSNIPS

500 g (1 lb) parsnips, peeled and quartered
60 g (2 oz) butter
salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ cup cream
1–2 tablespoons chopped parsley

Remove core from parsnips if woody, and cut into smaller pieces if desired. Cook until almost tender in boiling salted water. Drain. Return to pan with butter and complete cooking over low heat, shaking pan from time to time. Season with salt and pepper and add cream. Heat through and serve, sprinkled with parsley. Serves 4.

ROAST PARSNIPS

4 parsnips, peeled and quartered
dripping or oil if necessary

Remove core from parsnips if woody. Blanch in boiling water for 5 minutes, then drain. Place parsnips around or under meat in roasting tin, or cook in a separate tin of dripping or oil, or cook with potatoes. Allow about 30–45 minutes in a moderately hot oven (190°C/375°F). Serves 4.

PASSIONFRUIT (GRENADILLA)

Although a native of Brazil, passionfruit is grown in many other countries where the climate is warm and there is little risk of frost. It is a small, round pulpy fruit with small black edible seeds and a tough purple skin.

Passionfruit is usually considered a summer fruit, although it is available year-round. Passionfruit pulp can be purchased canned or frozen, and any surplus of home production may be frozen in small quantities for up to 1 year – small ice cube trays are perfect; when frozen transfer to freezer bags.

Passionfruit is a traditional garnish for Pavlova, and there are few fruits whose flavour is not enhanced by passionfruit. In summer, it goes beautifully with fresh or cooked peaches, as well as nectarines and rockmelon; and in autumn, with fresh sliced or poached pears.

PASSIONFRUIT MOUSSE

¾ cup passionfruit pulp
3–4 tablespoons caster sugar
1 tablespoon powdered gelatine
2 tablespoons lemon juice
2 tablespoons hot water
¾ cup orange juice
2 egg whites
1 cup cream

Mix passionfruit pulp with caster sugar to taste. Sprinkle gelatine over lemon juice, leave to soften, then add hot water and stir until dissolved. Add to orange juice and chill until just starting to set. Whip juice mixture until frothy. Beat egg whites until stiff. Whip cream until thick. Fold passionfruit pulp into juice mixture, then fold in cream and egg whites. Spoon into a serving bowl and place in refrigerator to set. Serves 6.

PASSIONFRUIT ICE CREAM

¼ cup caster sugar
½ cup passionfruit pulp
squeeze lemon juice
¾ cup cream

Stir caster sugar into passionfruit pulp until dissolved, then add lemon juice. Place in freezer to chill. Whip cream until thick. Fold cream into passionfruit mixture, pour into container of sorbetière and freeze. Alternatively, pour into ice cream tray, freeze until mushy, then turn out and beat until smooth before returning to freezer. Serves 6.

PASSIONFRUIT CHEESE

60 g (2 oz) butter
4 passionfruits
2 egg yolks
½ cup sugar

Melt butter in top of a double saucepan or in a bowl over a pan of simmering water. Add passionfruit pulp, egg yolks and sugar. Stir over gentle heat until the mixture has thickened. Cool, pour into sterilised jar and seal. Will keep for 2–3 months in the refrigerator or up to 1 month in a cool, dark place. Makes about

1 cup.

NOTE: For sterilising jars see Jams.

PASTA

Spaghetti caruso, rigatoni carbonara, vermicelli Napolitana, straw and grass, lasagne, cannelloni – the names conjure up pictures of steaming pasta of different shapes and sizes, each with its own delicious complementary sauce.

Pasta is as Italian as opera, and as varied. There are said to be about 400 different varieties of pasta, from the fine strands of vermicelli to the broad, flat lasagne and the giant pipes of cannelloni. Pasta comes in different shapes, too: small and large shells; cornetti, or elbow macaroni; and trivelle – shaped like a corkscrew. The long thin strands of spaghetti are an all-time favourite, but so too is bucatini (spaghetti with a hole in the middle); and there’s linguine (flat spaghetti) as well. Some pastas are eaten with a sauce, sometimes just with butter; others, like tortellini, are stuffed with meat or cheese, spices and herbs.

Sauces are important (See Pasta Sauces) – contrary to popular belief not all the sauces include tomato, but those that do are legion – the ragù alla Bolognese is, perhaps, the most famous. Also popular are the fresh tomato sauces that can be made in just a few minutes with fresh or canned tomatoes. And tomato paste (a concentrated reduction of fresh tomatoes) is added to many sauces to enrich them and give them their lovely natural tomato flavour.

When buying pasta, go for quality. Look also for the pre-cooked varieties, especially cannelloni and lasagne, which eliminate one whole step – cooking the pasta in boiling water – which can be tricky with these shapes as they have a tendency to stick together. Pre-cooked spaghetti is a great boon: it takes only 6 minutes to boil, the strands stay separate and in that time you can make a simple tomato sauce, or simply serve the spaghetti with butter flavoured with a crushed clove of garlic and a grating of Parmesan cheese – it’s delicious!

There are three main distinctions to be made with types of Italian pasta. One is called pasta fatta in casa, meaning fresh, home-made pasta; another is the mass-produced type, sold dried, in packets; and the third is the pasta made in the fresh-pasta shops that are now emerging. There is much to be said for all three, but if you have a light hand with pastry, it is well worth trying to make your own pasta. You may even invest in a pasta-making machine. The electric machines actually make the pasta, then roll it out and cut it into a variety of shapes, all done automatically. A great toy and, if you really love pasta, a joy.

Servings: 500 g (1 lb) pasta will serve 4 people as a main course, 6 people as a first course.

To cook: Use a large, deep pan with plenty of room for the pasta to cook without sticking. Allow 3.75 litres (15 cups) water for 250 g (8 oz) pasta. Add about 1 teaspoon salt for each litre (4 cups) of water, and have the water boiling vigorously before adding pasta. A teaspoon of olive oil may be added to water to help prevent pasta sticking together, a good tip, especially for large pasta like lasagne.

Drop pasta into water slowly so water does not go off the boil. Stir a few times at start of cooking to prevent pasta sticking, then allow to boil vigorously, uncovered. When cooked, pasta should be tender but still firm to the bite – al dente, as the Italians say, which means just firm enough to bite comfortably, but not so soft that it is mushy. Pasta is meant to be chewed. When cooked, remove pan immediately from heat and drain. Pour boiling water through pasta in a colander or sieve, then allow to drain again. Toss in hot sauce or melted butter and serve immediately.

Home-made pasta will not take as long to cook as the bought variety, but it is difficult to give exact times as they depend on the thickness of the dough and also the size and shape of the pasta.

Cooking times: There is a guide to cooking times on most packets, but it is best to start tasting and testing pasta, especially fresh pasta, as soon as it rises to the surface of the water. The following are approximate cooking times for dried packaged pasta.

Spaghetti: 12 minutes

Tagliatelle (long ribbon strips): 8 minutes

Vermicelli (long thin threads): 8–10 minutes

Cannelloni and lasagne (large pipes or squares): 12 minutes. Pre-cooked cannelloni and lasagne are available. Follow packet instructions.

To combine pasta and sauce: Place drained cooked pasta in a heated serving bowl, add part of the sauce (if desired, sprinkle with grated Parmesan cheese). With 2 forks, or spaghetti tongs, toss gently until pasta is coated with sauce. Top with remaining sauce.

To keep pasta hot: It is best to serve pasta as soon as it is cooked. However, it can be kept hot for a short while. Return drained cooked pasta to the empty cooking pan, add about 60 g (2 oz) butter, then cover with a lid and keep warm.

Or drain pasta in a colander and set over a pan containing a small amount of simmering water. Coat pasta with 90 g (3 oz) butter (for 6 servings) to keep it from sticking together. Cover colander.

EGG PASTA (PASTA ALL’UOVO)

2 cups flour
2 eggs

Sift flour into a bowl, make a well in centre and add eggs. Stir with a knife, adding a little cold water (about 3 tablespoons) and form into a firm dough with hands. Turn out onto a floured board and knead, turning and pushing with the heel of your hand for about 15 minutes or until the dough is smooth and pliable. The dough will be stiff at first but will soon become more pliable as you knead. Shape into a ball and wrap in plastic wrap. Leave to rest for 20 minutes. Roll out dough to a paper-thin, even sheet on a lightly floured surface. Sprinkle lightly with flour to prevent sticking. Cut into required shapes as described below, and cook in a large saucepan of boiling salted water. Dough can be left for 30 minutes before cooking, but sprinkle liberally with flour to prevent it sticking.

NOTE: This quantity of dough can be doubled, but divide it in half before rolling out. If using a noodle machine for rolling and cutting, follow manufacturer’s directions.

VARIATIONS

GREEN PASTA (PASTA VERDE): Put 1 × 315 g (10 oz) packet frozen chopped spinach in a saucepan and stir over a low heat until melted. Or, if using fresh spinach, cook 2 bunches for about 4–5 minutes or until tender. Turn into a fine sieve and press with a spoon to extract all liquid. When cool enough to handle, squeeze spinach with hand to extract as much remaining liquid as possible. Chop or process fresh spinach in a blender or food processor. Make pasta as for Egg Pasta, using 2½ cups flour and 1 egg, and adding spinach purée with egg. It may be necessary to add a little cold water – or more flour – to make a firm dough.

RIBBON NOODLES (TAGLIATELLE): Roll out Egg or Green Pasta dough to an oblong shape. Starting from the shorter side, roll up dough, then cut across roll into 1 cm (½ in) strips. Unravel each strip and drop into boiling salted water. Cook for 5 minutes or until pasta is tender. Drain and serve with a sauce or with butter and grated Parmesan cheese.

FINE RIBBON NOODLES (TAGLIOLINI): Roll up dough as for Tagliatelle, but cut in thin, 5 mm (¼ in) strips. Serve similarly or in soup.

LASAGNE AND CANNELLONI: Cut rolled-out Egg or Green Pasta dough into oblongs about 8 × 10 cm (3 × 4 in). Place on a floured baking tray so they are not touching. Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil and drop in pasta. Cook for about 10 minutes or until tender, then drain and rinse. Spread on a clean cloth, again not touching, and allow to dry. Lasagne and cannelloni can be left for 2 hours before cooking. As they are larger than other pasta, they are best cooked in 2–3 batches, or more if your pan is small.

PASTA WITH BUTTER (PASTA AL BURRO)

500 g (1 lb) pasta, such as ribbon noodles, spaghetti or macaroni
butter
grated Parmesan cheese

Cook pasta in boiling salted water until al dente. Drain, turn into a heated serving bowl and top generously with butter and grated Parmesan cheese. Stir through pasta until coated. Serve extra butter and cheese at the table. Serves 4.

RIBBON NOODLES ALFREDO (TAGLIATELLE ALFREDO)

500 g (1 lb) ribbon noodles
60 g (2 oz) butter
1 cup cream
1 cup grated Parmesan cheese
freshly ground black pepper

Cook pasta in boiling salted water until al dente. Drain well in a colander. Melt butter in same saucepan over a low heat. Mix in cream, and toss in noodles. Add cheese and a good grind of pepper. Toss well and serve immediately. Serves 4.

NOODLES WITH PESTO (PASTA COL PESTO)

500 g (1 lb) fine ribbon noodles
1 quantity Pesto alla Genovese
60 g (2 oz) butter
grated pecorino or Parmesan cheese to serve

Cook pasta in boiling salted water until al dente. Drain and pile into a heated serving bowl. Heap pesto on top with butter and serve. Mix pesto into pasta at the table. Serve with pecorino or Parmesan cheese. Serves 4.

SPAGHETTI BOLOGNESE

500 g (1 lb) spaghetti
1 quantity hot Bolognese Sauce
grated Parmesan cheese

Cook spaghetti in boiling salted water until al dente. Drain and turn into a heated serving bowl. Add half the bolognese sauce and toss with 2 forks until each strand is evenly coated. Top with remaining sauce and sprinkle with grated Parmesan cheese. Serve immediately. Serves 4.

PASTA AMMUDDICATA

Noodles with anchovy sauce accompanied by a bowl of crisp fried crumbs is a specialty from the south of Italy. It is a quick and easy dish but delicious. No cheese is served with this dish.

4–5 canned anchovies
milk
cup olive oil
1½ cups coarse fresh breadcrumbs
pinch chilli powder
250 g (8 oz) bucatini or tagliatelle

Soak anchovies in a little milk for 15–20 minutes, then drain and chop. Heat half the olive oil in a small pan, add anchovies and cook them over lowest possible heat until dissolved to a paste. Heat the remaining oil in a frying pan and fry breadcrumbs until golden and crispy. Sprinkle with chilli powder and keep warm. Cook pasta in boiling salted water until al dente. Drain and toss with the anchovy sauce. Serve immediately, accompanied by the breadcrumbs in a separate bowl. Serves 3–4.

NOTE: If liked, 2–3 tablespoons chopped parsley and 1 teaspoon chopped fresh oregano may be added to the anchovy sauce.

PASTA WITH CHUNKY TOMATO SAUCE (PASTA PIZZAIOLA)

A Neapolitan dish. The tomatoes should just be heated through to retain their fresh flavour. If fresh basil or oregano is not available, add extra chopped parsley.

500 g (1 lb) spaghetti or vermicelli
¾ cup grated well-flavoured cheese
Sauce
4 firm ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded and coarsely chopped
2 cloves garlic, crushed
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon chopped fresh basil or oregano
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Cook pasta in boiling salted water until al dente. Meanwhile, cook tomatoes and garlic gently in oil for 5 minutes. Add basil or oregano. Cook for 2 minutes longer, then stir in parsley, season with salt and pepper and remove from heat. Drain pasta and place in a heated serving dish. Pour over sauce and pass grated cheese separately. Serves 4.

PASTA WITH BASIL SAUCE

500 g (1 lb) fettucini or spaghetti
½ cup chopped parsley
½ cup chopped fresh basil
½ clove garlic, chopped
½ cup olive oil
1 cup ricotta cheese
pinch cayenne
grated Parmesan cheese

Cook pasta in boiling salted water until al dente. Meanwhile, combine parsley, basil and garlic in a mortar. With a pestle pound them into a paste. Gradually work in oil and cheese, then season with cayenne. (This can also be done in a blender or a food processor fitted with a steel blade.) Drain pasta and place in a heated serving dish. Add sauce and gently mix. Serve immediately. Offer some grated Parmesan cheese for topping. Serves 4–6.

PENNE WITH MUSHROOMS

Tiny, white button mushrooms make a delicious, simple sauce for pasta. Try them with penne or large shells.

4 tablespoons olive oil
1 clove garlic, chopped
500 g (1 lb) button mushrooms, sliced
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1–2 tablespoons chopped parsley
1 tablespoon butter
250 g (8 oz) penne or large pasta shells
4 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese

Heat oil in a large pan, add garlic and mushrooms and cook for about 6–8 minutes or until soft. Add salt, pepper, parsley and butter. Keep warm. Cook pasta in boiling salted water until al dente. Drain well. Pour mushroom mixture over and toss lightly. Turn into heated serving dish and sprinkle with grated cheese and, if liked, more parsley. Serves 3–4.

PASTA WITH GARLIC AND FRESH HERBS

You really need fresh herbs for this dish. In summer use a mixture of basil, dill, parsley, oregano and coriander, which gives a wonderful flavour. In winter, when fewer herbs are growing, use parsley and a little raw grated onion with whatever fresh herbs are available.

500 g (1 lb) noodles/spaghetti, shells, trivelle, or other pasta
2 tablespoons olive oil
3 cloves garlic, sliced
60 g (2 oz) butter
¾ cup chopped mixed fresh herbs
½ teaspoon salt
freshly ground black pepper
about cup milk

Cook pasta in boiling salted water until al dente. Drain well. Heat oil in saucepan, add garlic and fry until very light brown (it must not burn or it will be bitter). Add pasta to heat through. Add butter, then using 2 forks toss pasta to mix in butter. Add herbs, salt and pepper and toss again. Add milk slowly, cooking and tossing pasta as you do. The milk will slowly be absorbed; it should form a little sauce around the pasta. Serve at once. A green salad is a good accompaniment. Serves 4.

SPAGHETTI CARUSO

The speciality of the Restaurant Caruso Belvedere, in Italy. This sauce is also good with bucatini, the fine spaghetti with the hole in the middle.

2 cloves garlic, halved
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 medium onions, chopped
125 g (4oz) chicken livers, trimmed and chopped
250 g (8oz) mushrooms, sliced
2 tablespoons tomato paste
½ cup water
2 cups canned tomatoes with juice
1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme, or ¼ teaspoon dried
1 teaspoon chopped fresh basil, or ¼ teaspoon dried
1 bay leaf
1 teaspoon salt
freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon sugar
500 g (1 lb) spaghetti or bucatini
1 cup grated Parmesan cheese

Sauté garlic in 3 tablespoons oil in a frying pan for 2 minutes; discard garlic. Add onions and cook gently for 4 minutes, then add chickens livers and mushrooms. Cook, stirring frequently, for 5 minutes. Stir in tomato paste mixed with water, tomatoes and juice, thyme, basil, bay leaf, salt, pepper and sugar. Simmer, covered, for 30 minutes. Meanwhile, cook pasta in boiling salted water until al dente. Drain and put on a heated platter with half the cheese. Spoon over half the sauce and toss. Pass remaining sauce and cheese separately. Serves 4–6.

SPAGHETTI WITH BROCCOLI

This dish is a Calabrian speciality.

1 large head broccoli
1 tablespoon oil
3 cloves garlic, crushed
3–4 tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped
1 teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
4 tablespoons raisins
4 tablespoons pine nuts
500 g (1 lb) spaghetti
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
1 cup grated Parmesan cheese

Separate florets from broccoli stalks. Cut stalks into bite-size pieces. Cook florets and stalks in boiling salted water for 5 minutes. Drain and keep warm in a covered bowl. Put oil and garlic into pan and cook over medium heat until garlic is soft. Add tomatoes, salt and pepper and cook over moderate heat for 10 minutes. Stir in raisins and pine nuts. Keep hot. Cook spaghetti in boiling salted water until al dente. Drain and place in a heated shallow serving bowl. Pour sauce over and top with broccoli and chopped parsley. Mix gently, then serve, with cheese. Serves 6–8.

SPAGHETTI WITH CHEESE AND GREEN PEPPERCORNS

One of the simplest spaghetti dishes, flavoured with canned green peppercorns.

250 g (8 oz) spaghetti
½ cup grated pecorino cheese
1 teaspoon canned green peppercorns, crushed
3 tablespoons butter

Cook spaghetti in boiling salted water until al dente. Drain, reserving a few tablespoons cooking water. Return spaghetti to saucepan and add remaining ingredients with reserved water. Mix gently and serve. Serves 3–4.

SPAGHETTI CON VONGOLE

If you can get fresh clams, by all means use them for this dish; about 500 g (1 lb) will be required. Scrub and steam open in a little water. Remove clams from shells and rinse out any sand. Canned clams are very good too, and save a visit to the fish market.

3 tablespoons oil
2 cloves garlic, crushed
3 tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1 × 290 g can clams, drained
salt and freshly ground black pepper
250 g (8 oz) spaghetti
2 tablespoons chopped parsley

Heat oil in a saucepan and fry garlic a moment, then add tomatoes and tomato paste. Cook over a gentle heat for about 20 minutes. Add clams and season with salt and pepper. Heat through gently. Meanwhile, cook spaghetti in boiling salted water until al dente. Drain and place in a heated serving dish. Pour sauce over spaghetti and toss to mix well. Sprinkle with chopped parsley. Serves 3–4.

TORTELLINI

Stuffed pasta rings that can be served with the stock in which they are cooked or with a bolognese sauce.

45 g (1½ oz) butter
180 g (6 oz) raw turkey breast meat, sliced
90 g (3 oz) cooked ham
90 g (3 oz) Italian sausage
4 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese
2 eggs, beaten
salt and freshly grounded black pepper
1 quantity Egg Pasta
1 litre (4 cups) good-quality chicken stock and grated Parmesan cheese to serve

Heat butter and fry turkey gently until golden, then finely mince together turkey, ham and sausage. Add cheese, eggs, salt and pepper and mix to form a smooth paste. Cover and refrigerate. Roll pasta dough thinly to form a large rectangle. Dust lightly with a little flour and leave to rest and dry for 15–20 minutes. Cut into about 40 × 3.5 cm (1½ in) squares and place about ½ teaspoon filling on each square. Fold each square over to form a triangle, press edges firmly to seal and enclose filling. Curve each triangle around your fingertip and press the two ends together. Bring stock to the boil. Drop in tortellini and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes. Turn off heat, cover pan and leave to stand for 20–30 minutes. To serve, ladle tortellini into soup plates with a little stock and pass around grated Parmesan. Serves 4.

RIGATONI CARBONARA

Try to find rigatoni for this dish; these are the large ribbed noodles or penne shaped like a pen nib. This is a Roman specialty and translated literally means ‘charcoal burner’s style’. Spaghetti is often served in this way, but the fat tubes of rigatoni seem better able to collect lovely bits of the egg and bacon sauce.

500 g (1 lb) rigatoni, penne or spaghetti
1 tablespoon oil
125 g (4 oz) lean bacon or speck, cut into 2.5 cm (1 in) pieces
4 eggs
¾ cup grated Parmesan cheese
1 tablespoon salt
freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup cream
60 g (2 oz) butter

Cook pasta in boiling salted water until al dente. Meanwhile, heat oil in a heavy frying pan and fry bacon or speck until crisp and brown. Remove from pan. Beat eggs in a bowl with cheese, salt, pepper and cream. Drain pasta and keep warm. Melt butter in frying pan, add egg mixture and cook, stirring constantly until it begins to thicken. Add pasta and bacon, mix together quickly and serve at once. Serves 4–6.

NOTE: It is important to drain pasta before cooking the egg mixture and to add it to the eggs just as they are thickening. They must not overcook and should be moist.

STRAW AND GRASS

A Roman dish, which gets its name from the 2 pastas used. The simple sauce calls for strips of ham; use leg ham or the raw prosciutto.

125 g (4 oz) butter
1 clove garlic
500 g (1 lb) button mushrooms, sliced
salt
1 cup cream
125 g (4 oz) cooked ham or prosciutto cut into strips
250 g (8 oz) spaghetti
250 g (8 oz) tagliatelle
¾ cup grated Parmesan cheese

Heat butter in a large frying pan. Add garlic and mushrooms, sprinkle lightly with salt and sauté for 5–8 minutes. Heat cream in the top of a double saucepan. Add mushrooms and ham and keep warm. Cook the 2 pastas separately in boiling salted water until al dente. Drain, then toss in mushroom sauce. Serve immediately, topped with grated cheese. Serves 6.

TAGLIATELLE ALL’AMATRICIANA

This recipe is one of the most famous of all pasta dishes. It is said to come from Amatrice, a little village in the Sabine country near Rome. The sauce is based on pancetta, a type of bacon (available at many Italian delicatessens), which is diced and mixed with tomatoes, peppers and onions. Purists omit the tomatoes. Try to find the very thin tagliatelle, sometimes called tagliarini, or use linguine ribbon noodles for this, bought or home-made.

2 tablespoons oil
250 g (8 oz) pancetta, bacon or speck, diced
1 small dried chilli, or pinch cayenne
1 small onion, chopped
500 g (1 lb) tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped
salt and freshly ground black pepper
500 g (1 lb) tagliatelle or linguine
½ cup each grated pecorino and Parmesan cheese

Heat oil in a heavy frying pan. Add bacon and cook until brown and crisp. Remove from pan, drain on paper towels and set aside. If using, soak dried chilli in hot water for 5 minutes, then drain, remove seeds and chop finely. Add chilli and onion to the pan and sauté until onion is softened. Stir in tomatoes, season with salt and pepper and add cayenne, if using. Simmer sauce for 10 minutes. While sauce is cooking, cook pasta in boiling salted water until al dente. Drain. Place pasta in a large heated shallow serving dish. Add reserved bacon to sauce and pour over pasta. Sprinkle with grated cheese and serve at once. Serves 4–6.

MACARONI WITH FOUR CHEESES

This very simply made sauce relies on a combination of different cheeses for its lovely flavour. A favourite Roman dish.

500 g (1 lb) macaroni (tubular, shell, bow, etc.)
60 g (2 oz) butter
1 teaspoon flour
1 cup milk
60 g (2 oz) Gruyère cheese
60 g (2 oz) Edam or Gouda cheese
60 g (2 oz) Cheddar cheese
salt and freshly ground white pepper
60 g (2 oz) Parmesan cheese, grated

Cook macaroni in boiling salted water until al dente. Meanwhile, melt half of the butter in a heavy saucepan and stir in flour. Cook, stirring, for about 30 seconds. Gradually stir in milk and simmer sauce for 3 minutes, stirring well. Remove from heat. Cut Gruyère, Edam and Cheddar cheeses into match-size strips and stir into sauce. Season with salt and pepper. Put pan back on stove over medium heat and stir until cheeses are almost melted (this should take only a minute). Drain macaroni well, place in a heated deep serving dish and toss with remaining butter. Pour sauce at once over macaroni, mix lightly and serve. The Parmesan cheese may be sprinkled on top or served separately. Serves 4–6.

NOTE: This is a substantial dish, full of protein, and needs only a light salad to complete the meal.

ITALIAN PASTA SALAD

2 cups macaroni or fancy pasta (shells, bows, etc.)
2 tablespoons oil
250 g (8 oz) thickly sliced cooked ham, cubed
cup black olives, halved and stoned
1 cup cooked peas
½ –1 cup Mayonnaise
2 tablespoons French mustard
salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tomatoes, peeled and quartered

Cook macaroni in boiling salted water, with 1 tablespoon oil added, until al dente. Drain and rinse well. Sprinkle remaining oil over and toss well to coat – this will prevent macaroni sticking together. Add ham to macaroni with olives and peas. Cool. Combine ½ cup mayonnaise with mustard and stir through cold macaroni mixture, adding a little more mayonnaise if necessary to give a creamy salad. Season with salt and pepper. Spoon into salad bowl. Place tomatoes around salad. Serve chilled. Serves 4–6.

CANNELLONI WITH MEAT STUFFING

The pre-cooked cannelloni tubes eliminate a big step in preparing this dish and you are assured of the pasta being just al dente, as it should be.

1 × 130 g (4 oz) packet pre-cooked cannelloni tubes
125 g (4 oz) mozzarella cheese

Sauce

1 onion, chopped
1 clove garlic, crushed
¼ cup oil
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
1 teaspoon salt
freshly ground black pepper
1 × 425 g can tomatoes, chopped, with juice
2 tablespoons tomato paste
2 cups boiling water

Filling

500 g (1 lb) minced steak
2 eggs, beaten
2 tablespoons oil
2 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
1 teaspoon chopped oregano or basil, or ¼ teaspoon dried
1 teaspoon salt
freshly ground black pepper

If not using pre-cooked cannelloni, cook the tubes in boiling salted water for 5 minutes. Rinse in cold water and drain. Cannelloni should be just flexible enough to handle.

To make sauce, sauté onion and garlic in oil until brown. Add parsley, salt and pepper. Stir in tomatoes and tomato paste. Gradually stir in boiling water and simmer for 20 minutes.

To make filling, combine steak, eggs, oil, cheese, parsley and herbs and season with salt and pepper. Pour half the sauce into a shallow baking dish. Fill cannelloni with prepared filling, then arrange side by side in the sauce. Cover with remaining sauce and thin slices of mozzarella. Bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for 45–50 minutes. Serves 4–6.

CANNELLONI WITH CHEESE AND HAM STUFFING

1 × 130 g (4 oz) packet pre-cooked cannelloni tubes
oil
1½ cups grated Parmesan cheese
extra grated Parmesan cheese to serve

Filling

¾ cup ricotta cheese, sieved
250 g (8 oz) mozzarella cheese, grated
60 g (2 oz) cooked ham, chopped
2 eggs
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Sauce

90 g (3 oz) butter
4 large, ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped
1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

If not using pre-cooked cannelloni, cook in boiling salted water, with a little oil added, for 5 minutes or until tender but firm. Rinse in cold water and drain.

To make filling, mix all ingredients together and spoon into cannelloni. Arrange cannelloni side by side in a buttered shallow ovenproof dish.

To make sauce, heat half the butter in a heavy saucepan and add tomatoes, basil, salt and pepper. Simmer, covered, for 15 minutes. Spoon sauce over cannelloni, sprinkle with Parmesan cheese and dot with remaining butter. Bake in a preheated moderately hot oven (190°C/375°F) for 15 minutes. Serve very hot, and pass a bowl of grated Parmesan cheese separately. Serves 6.

BAKED LASAGNE (LASAGNE AL FORNO)

This lasagne may be made with fresh egg pasta or bought pre-cooked lasagne. Serve with a fresh green salad.

1 quantity Egg Pasta, or 2 × 250 g (8 oz) packets pre-cooked lasagne
1 quantity Bolognese Sauce
double quantity Béchamel Sauce, flavoured with pinch grated nutmeg
½ cup grated Parmesan cheese

If using fresh pasta, divide dough in half and roll out each half thinly to a rectangle 40 × 45 cm (16 × 18 in).Trim edges and cut dough into 8 × 10 cm (3 × 4 in) oblongs.

Drop one at a time into a large pan of boiling salted water and cook until al dente. Cook in at least 2 batches. If using bought pasta that is not precooked, cook it for 15 minutes in boiling salted water. Turn into a colander and rinse with cold water, then place pasta sheets on a clean cloth so they are not touching and leave to dry. Put a layer of bolog-nese sauce on the bottom of a large deep ovenproof dish. Top with some béchamel sauce, then add a layer of pasta. Repeat layers until dish is full, ending with bolognese, then béchamel sauce. Sprinkle top with Parmesan cheese. Bake lasagne in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for 1 hour or until heated through. Serves 6–8.

NOTE: A richer dish can be made by including slices of mozzarella cheese after each layer of béchamel sauce. Sometimes a beaten egg is mixed into the last layer of béchamel sauce for a custard-like topping.

LASAGNE WITH RICOTTA

This may be made a day or two ahead and stored in the refrigerator. Reheat in a moderate oven for about 30 minutes, and serve cut in squares accompanied by a mixed tossed salad. Good for a crowd.

750 g (1½ lb) minced steak
salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 tablespoons olive oil
1 quantity Egg Pasta, or 2 × 250 g (8 oz) packets pre-cooked lasagne
500 g (1 lb) ricotta or cottage cheese
500 g (1 lb) mozzarella cheese, sliced
1 cup grated Parmesan cheese

Tomato sauce

3 tablespoons olive oil
½ stick celery, diced
1 onion, finely chopped
1 clove garlic, crushed
750 g (1½ lb) ripe tomatoes, chopped, or 2 × 425 g cans tomatoes, drained
3 tablespoons tomato paste
1 cup wine, juice from canned tomatoes or water
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 bay leaf
1 bouquet garni

To make tomato sauce, heat oil in saucepan, add celery, onion, garlic and wine, tomato juice or water. Season with salt and pepper and add bay leaf and bouquet garni. Cook gently for 30 minutes, then remove bay leaf and bouquet garni and rub sauce through a sieve. Set aside.

Season meat with salt and pepper. Shape into balls a little larger than a marble. Heat oil in a frying pan and brown meatballs on all sides. Do this in 3 batches so that oil keeps hot and free from moisture. Place all meatballs back in pan and cook gently for 5 minutes. Drain. If using fresh pasta, divide dough in half and roll out each half thinly to a rectangle, 40 × 45 cm (16 × 18 in). Trim edges and cut dough into 8 × 10 cm (3 × 4 in) rectangles. Drop one at a time into a large pan of boiling salted water and cook until al dente. Cook in at least 2 batches. If using bought pasta that is not pre-cooked, cook for 15 minutes in boiling salted water. Turn into a colander and rinse with cold water, then place pasta sheets on a clean cloth so they are not touching, and leave to dry.

Butter a large baking dish or ovenproof casserole and spoon about one-third of the tomato sauce into it. Arrange half of the pasta sheets on top, then cover with a thin layer of sauce and spoon over one-third of the ricotta or cottage cheese. Arrange a layer of one-third of the mozzarella cheese on top and sprinkle with one-third of the Parmesan cheese. Spoon over more tomato sauce, then add meatballs, one-third of the cheeses and remaining pasta. Coat with remaining tomato sauce, then add remaining cheeses, ending with a layer of Parmesan cheese. Bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for 45 minutes or until golden. Serves 12–15.

RAVIOLI

1 quantity Egg Pasta, made with only 1½ cups flour, 2 eggs and 1 tablespoon water
melted butter
grated Parmesan cheese

Meat filling

30 g (1 oz) butter
250 g (8 oz) minced steak
1 small clove garlic, chopped
1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley
3 tablespoons fresh breadcrumbs
2 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese
good pinch grated nutmeg
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 egg

To make meat filling, heat butter in pan and fry meat, stirring, until beginning to brown. Add garlic and parsley and continue cooking, stirring with a fork, until meat is well browned. Place in a bowl and add breadcrumbs, cheese, grated nutmeg, salt and pepper. Mix all together, then stir in beaten egg. Combine thoroughly and set aside. The pasta dough should be softer than for other pasta. Halve kneaded dough. Roll out each portion thinly on a floured board to a long oblong shape. Cover first piece with damp paper towel to prevent drying out. Place teaspoons of filling in mound at 5 cm (2 in) intervals in regular lines on second sheet of pasta. Brush between mounds of filling with water, then place second sheet of dough over top. Press firmly between mounds, sealing the 2 sheets of dough together, then, using a pastry wheel, cut into squares. Drop ravioli into a large pan of boiling salted water and cook for 15 minutes or until tender (cooking time depends on thinness of dough). Drain and toss in melted butter and grated Parmesan cheese, or in Bolognese Sauce. Serve immediately. Serves 4–6.

NOTE: Meat-filled ravioli is often served in chicken broth as a soup. Dough for ravioli can also be cut into 4 cm (1½ in) rounds, then filled and the dough folded over to make half-moons. Press edges well together and mark with a fork.

TORTELLINI DELLA NONNA

Pasta is often served with cream, Parmesan cheese and a good grinding of black pepper. Here is a famous version made with tortellini (small filled pasta twists), which can be bought frozen from Italian greengrocers and many supermarket freezer chests.

1 × 500 g (1 lb) packet frozen tortellini
125 g (4 oz) butter
¾ cup cream
5 thin slices prosciutto, cut into ribbons
½ cup cooked peas
1 cup grated Parmesan cheese
salt and freshly ground black pepper
extra grated Parmesan cheese to serve

Plunge tortellini into a large saucepan of boiling salted water and cook for about 25 minutes or until just tender. Drain in a colander. Melt butter in a deep, heavy frying pan over a moderately slow heat. Add tortellini and stir until coated with butter. Add cream, prosciutto and peas, and cook mixture until cream thickens slightly. Add Parmesan, and season with salt and pepper. Serve immediately, with a dish of freshly grated Parmesan cheese and a pepper mill for those who would like extra pepper. Serves 6–8.

PASTA SAUCES

Tomato, pesto, and bolognese are, perhaps, the most famous of pasta sauces. They are simple to prepare and cook, and have a certain ‘freshness’ about them.

The pomodoro, or apple of gold, as the tomato is often called, sets the stage for many Italian pasta sauces, and tomato sauce is the basis of many regional specialties. Ingredients are added to it as suits local tastes – prosciutto from Bologna, onion and bacon from the Roman countryside, clams from Naples, and local fresh cheeses and fish.

Flavourings may change, as may the length of time a sauce is cooked, but these determine the characteristics of the sauces as they change from province to province.

FRESH TOMATO SAUCE

This light, fresh-tasting sauce is very versatile. As well as being served with pasta, it can also accompany roast veal, roast beef and Chicken Liver Mousse.

2 teaspoons olive oil
1 clove garlic, crushed
2 shallots or spring onions, chopped
4 large tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped
1 teaspoon tomato paste
pinch sugar
cup chicken stock

Heat oil in a saucepan, add garlic and shallots or spring onions and cook for 2–3 minutes. Add tomatoes, tomato paste, sugar and stock and cook over gentle heat for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Purée sauce in a blender or food processor, or push through a sieve. Check seasoning. If sauce is too thin return to pan and reduce by boiling. Makes 1½ cups, or sufficient for 500 g (1 lb) pasta.

PESTO ALLA GENOVESE (GREEN SAUCE GENOVESE)

This is the famous sauce which is eaten by the Genoese with all kinds of pasta and gnocchi. It is also added to soups – try a tablespoon stirred into minestrone or a chicken broth at the last minute, or spoon over piping-hot baked jacket potatoes as an alternative to sour cream.

2–3 cloves garlic, chopped
4–6 tablespoons finely chopped fresh basil
4 tablespoons chopped parsley
1 tablespoon pine nuts or walnuts
½ cup grated Parmesan or Romano cheese
1 cup olive oil
freshly ground black pepper

With a mortar and pestle, pound garlic, basil, parsley, pine nuts or walnuts and cheese together until smooth. Gradually add oil, whisking between additions, until sauce is thick and smooth. Season with pepper. Makes sufficient for 750 g (1½ lb) pasta.

NOTE: If made in large quantities, sauce can be made in a blender or food processor. Store in a jar in refrigerator, covered with a layer of olive oil.

TOMATO SAUCE NEAPOLITAN

Known sometimes as pizzaiola sauce, this is often served with roasted or grilled chicken or meats. The fresh taste and look of the sauce is achieved by cooking the tomatoes for a relatively short time and by the addition of fresh basil or oregano.

3 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 kg (2 lb) very ripe Italian egg tomatoes, peeled, seeded and diced
4 leaves fresh basil, or 8 sprigs fresh oregano
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Place butter, oil, tomatoes and basil or oregano in a saucepan. Cook over low heat for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Season with salt and pepper. Discard herbs before serving. Makes 1½ cups, or sufficient for 500 g (1 lb) pasta.

VARIATION

PIZZAIOLA SAUCE: Prepare Tomato Sauce Neapolitan, but add 2 chopped cloves garlic and a little chopped onion to butter and oil, along with tomatoes. Good also with tiny escalopes of veal, grilled beef steaks and chicken breasts.

TOMATO SAUCE SICILIAN-STYLE

A good sauce with pasta or grilled meats.

1 small eggplant, peeled and diced
salt
1.25 kg (2½ lb) ripe tomatoes, peeled and chopped
cup olive oil
1 clove garlic
1 red pepper, peeled, cored and chopped
4 leaves fresh basil, or pinch dried
4 anchovy fillets, chopped (optional)
freshly ground black pepper

Place eggplant in a colander, sprinkle with salt and leave for at least 30 minutes. Drain well and set aside. Purée tomatoes in a blender, or sieve them. Heat oil in a saucepan and sauté garlic until golden, then discard garlic. Add eggplant and cook for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add tomatoes, red pepper and basil and simmer gently for 40 minutes or until sauce is thick. Add anchovies, if using, and simmer for a further 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Makes about 2½ cups, or sufficient for 750 g (1½ lb) pasta.

BOLOGNESE SAUCE (RAGÙ ALLA BOLOGNESE)

Ragù is the sauce from Bologna that people all over the world love to serve with spaghetti. The true ragù is not just a sauce of tomato-flavoured minced meat; its ingredients include several kinds of meat, chicken livers and good uncured bacon, pancetta or, better still, prosciutto. Sometimes cream or butter is added to the sauce just before it is tossed with the hot pasta. Bolognese cooks claim that this cream or butter makes for a smoother sauce.

250 g (8 oz) lean steak, finely chopped
250 g (8 oz) lean boneless pork, finely chopped
60 g (2 oz) bacon or prosciutto, chopped
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 clove garlic, peeled
1 small onion, finely chopped
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
1 bay leaf
1 × 425 g can tomatoes
½ cup white wine
½ cup water
2 tablespoons tomato paste
salt and freshly ground black pepper
grated nutmeg
1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil
butter or cream (optional)

Put steak, pork and bacon or prosciutto, mixed well together, into a saucepan with oil, garlic, onion, parsley and bay leaf. Brown slowly, stirring frequently to prevent meat cooking in lumps. As soon as garlic turns golden, remove it and discard. Add tomatoes (with juice from can), wine, water, tomato paste, salt, pepper and nutmeg. Cover and simmer for 1 hour. Add basil and cook for 1 minute longer. Remove from heat and discard bay leaf. If liked, add a little butter or a few spoonfuls of cream. Makes sufficient for 500 g (1 lb) pasta.

VARIATION

Substitute 250 g (8 oz) chicken livers for the pork and add an extra 60 g (2 oz) chopped bacon.

TOMATO SAUCE

Made using canned or fresh tomatoes.

2 tablespoons olive oil
1 small onion, finely chopped
1 kg (2 lb) tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped, or 2 × 875 g cans tomatoes, drained and chopped
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon sugar or to taste
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 leaves fresh basil, or 1 sprig fresh oregano
1 bay leaf
1 tablespoon tomato paste

Heat oil in a saucepan, add onion and cook over a high heat for 5–6 minutes, stirring, until brown. Add tomatoes, salt, sugar, pepper, basil or oregano, bay leaf and tomato paste. Bring to the boil, then cover and simmer for 45 minutes, stirring occasionally. Discard herbs before serving. Sauce may be pushed through a sieve to make a smooth purée if desired. Makes 1½ cups, or sufficient for 500 g (1 lb) pasta.

NOTE: Tomato sauce may be cooked for 15 minutes only; this gives a fresher tomato taste, which is preferred by some.

PASTITSO (PASTICCIO)

The Greek meat pie made from savoury minced meat between pasta layers and topped with a creamy custard sauce. It is cut into squares and can be served warm or cold.

PASTITSO

125 g (4 oz) butter
2 medium onions, finely chopped
500 g (1 lb) minced steak
2 tomatoes, peeled and chopped
1 tablespoon tomato paste
salt and freshly ground black pepper
¾ cup grated cheese
1 × 250 g (8 oz) packet pre-cooked lasagne
1 egg, beaten
Cream sauce
60 g (2 oz) butter
3 tablespoons flour
2½ cups milk
3 tablespoons cream (optional)
salt and freshly ground white pepper
grated nutmeg

Melt butter in frying pan and cook onions and minced steak for 2–3 minutes, stirring constantly. Add tomatoes, tomato paste, salt and pepper and continue cooking over low heat until meat is tender, stirring occasionally. Cover pan if mixture becomes too dry. Remove from heat and stir in ½ cup cheese.

To make cream sauce, melt butter in a saucepan, blend in flour and cook gently for 2 minutes. Add milk gradually, stirring over a low heat until boiling. Add cream, if using, and season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Remove sauce from heat.

Place half the lasagne in a greased casserole and cover with meat mixture, then the remaining lasagne. Blend cream sauce with beaten egg and remaining cheese. Pour over lasagne. Bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for 40–50 minutes or until top is nicely browned. Serve warm with a green salad. Serves 6.

PASTRY

From crumbly shortcrust and the airy layers of puff and flaky pastry to feathery choux, delicate pâte sucrée, tender sour cream or cream cheese pastry, yeast pastry, hot water pastry, strudel and filo, pastry means a world of enjoyment: delicious sweets, puffs, pies and tarts filled with jam, custard, fruit and cream, as well as savoury fillings that make tempting hors d’oeuvre, appetisers, snacks and meals.

Most pastries are a mixture of flour and fat bound with liquid, but variations in ingredients and in ways of mixing and cooking produce different end results. A good pastry should be light, tender, crisp and somewhat flaky.

As with most cooking, success in pastry-making is really a matter of practice. Certainly there are those whose delicate touch contributes to the lightness and tenderness of the pastry. But experience has shown that by following a few simple rules, anyone can make good pastry. Start with the simple types such as shortcrust, rich shortcrust, sweet flan or sour cream pastry. Master those and you will then be able to make superb quiches and fruit tarts, and will be inspired to go on to other delights.

Commercial pastries: Nowadays, manufacturers make it easy and foolproof to produce home-baked pastries. Supermarkets carry pastry mixes, packaged filo, frozen shortcrust or puff pastry, ready to roll out, even ready-rolled sheets of pastry and stamped-out vol-au-vent cases, ready to bake.

SHORT PASTRIES

Most short pastries are made by mixing fat with flour and lightly stirring in just enough liquid to make the mixture hold together. Important points for success:

• Have ingredients and equipment cool before starting, so that the fat will remain in tiny pieces without melting into the flour.

• Handle the pastry quickly and lightly once the liquid is added to avoid over development of gluten (elastic strands formed by the flour protein and moisture), which makes pastry tough and causes it to shrink when baked.

• Chill pastry for at least 30 minutes after mixing and before rolling out, and again when it has been shaped, before baking. This relaxes the gluten so that the pastry will be tender and won’t shrink when baked. The longer it is chilled after mixing, the better – overnight is ideal – but be sure to remove it from refrigerator at least 1 hour before shaping or you will be obliged to overhandle it.

FLAKY PASTRIES

These pastries are made by folding together layers of pastry dough with butter or other fats in between. When baked, the pastry puffs up into separate thin, crisp ‘leaves’. Important points for success:

• Have ingredients, equipment and your hands cool before starting, so that the fat will remain in firm layers, separating the pastry layers. Chilling the pastry at intervals during preparation, as described in recipes, is also designed to keep fat layers firm.

• The basic dough for flaky pastries is damper and more elastic than for short pastries. This allows the pastry to stretch when it is folded, and also allows for taking up extra dredging flour during preparation.

• There is a special way of rolling flaky pastries. First beat lightly and evenly with rolling pin from front to back of pastry, then roll out as follows: bring rolling pin down firmly on pastry, give a short, sharp back-and-forth roll, lift pin and repeat. The idea is to roll pastry thinner without pushing the fat about so that it breaks through the surface. Work your way from front to back of pastry with these short, quick rolls but stop just before you get to the back edge so that pastry is not pushed out of shape. If fat does break through, sprinkle it with flour and refrigerate pastry for 10 minutes before continuing.

• Keep corners square and edges straight. Correct the shape by pulling corners out gently rather than pushing sides in.

• Fold pastry exactly in three with edges level. Use a ruler as a guide and mark thirds with a fingertip on a long side before folding.

• Whatever shape you want to make from flaky pastries, always roll them straight along or straight across, keeping the rectangular shape. Rounds, ovals, etc.must be cut from the pastry, not shaped by rolling. Cut cleanly with a sharp knife, and avoid edges when glazing, so that layers can separate as the pastry rises.

To line a flan ring: Place a flan ring on a baking tray, or use a loose-bottomed flan tin. If the pastry you are using contains sugar or egg, lightly grease sides and base – this is not necessary for plain pastry. Roll pastry out to a circle about 3 mm ( in) thick and about 4 cm (1½ in) bigger than the ring. Lift pastry over rolling pin, then lift and lay pastry over the ring using the rolling pin. Ease pastry carefully into the ring, then, with a floured forefinger or small ball of pastry, press pastry into the angle round the base. Use floured fingertips to press pastry firmly against the sides of the ring, holding a loose ring steady with the other hand while you do so.

Roll across the top of the ring with the rolling pin to trim off surplus pastry. Press pastry gently around the top edge to work it very slightly above the rim of the ring, then work round the top, gently thumbing the pastry a fraction away from the ring. Rest for 30 minutes before baking as recipe directs.

To release the baked shell or tart from a flan ring, slide it off the tray onto a serving plate and lift ring off. To release it from a loose-bottomed tin, place tin on a jar and allow sides to fall down. Slide tart off base onto a serving plate, or leave on base to serve.

To bake blind: Flan cases and tart shells are often baked ‘blind’, meaning without filling. A case or shell may be baked completely if filling is not to be cooked with it, or partially baked to colour and crisp the pastry before adding the filling and finishing the cooking. Care must be taken to see that an empty case or shell doesn’t puff up unevenly or buckle as it cooks. Oven temperatures used for baking blind vary with the type of pastry being used (see recipes).

To bake tartlet shells blind: Prick lightly all over base with a fork, bake for 6 minutes then check. If any have puffed up, press down gently with a spoon then finish baking.

To bake a larger case/shell blind: Line it with crumpled, light greaseproof paper or tissue paper and fill with rice, crusts of bread or dried beans. For partial pre-baking, bake the shell for about 8 minutes or until sides are just coloured. Lift out paper with rice, crusts or beans, return case or shell to oven and bake for about 5 minutes more to dry and colour the base. Remove from oven, add filling and finish cooking. If sides of case or shell are over-browning, protect them with foil.

To pre-bake completely: Bake for 10–15 minutes after removing paper and rice, crusts or beans, until case or shell is golden. Remove from oven and cool before filling.

NOTE: To moisture-proof a pastry case or shell which will have a juice filling, brush inside of cooked case or shell with lightly beaten egg or egg white or warm jam and place in hot oven for 2–3 minutes to set.

PLAIN SHORTCRUST PASTRY (PÂTE BRISÉE)

Use for savoury pies, pastries, etc.

1½ cups flour
pinch salt
90 g (3 oz) chilled butter or firm cooking margarine, diced
about 3 tablespoons iced water
squeeze lemon juice

Sift flour and salt into a large bowl. Add diced fat and stir round with a knife until pieces are coated with flour. Rub fat into flour between thumbs and fingertips, lifting hands above bowl to aerate mixture, until it resembles coarse breadcrumbs. Shake bowl so that any large lumps come to the surface and rub them in. Mix water and lemon juice. Add 2 tablespoons liquid to flour mixture and stir in quickly with a roundended knife. When dough starts to cling together, use fingers of one hand to gather it into a ball. Sprinkle in more liquid only if necessary to dampen any remaining dry mixture in bowl and use ball of dough to gather it up. Dough should leave bowl clean.

Place pastry on a lightly floured surface and knead lightly by turning and pressing with floured heel of hand until smooth. Wrap in plastic wrap and chill for 30 minutes. Place dough on lightly floured surface and shape with fingers into a round or other shape as required. Lightly flour rolling pin and roll out, lifting and turning dough frequently and lightly flouring work surface as needed to prevent sticking. Chill again after shaping, before baking. Unless otherwise indicated, bake shortcrust pastry in a preheated very hot oven (230°C/450°F). Makes sufficient dough to line a 20–23 cm (8–9 in) pie plate or flan ring.

VARIATION

For a 25 cm (10 in) pastry shell or 2-crust 20–23 cm (8–9 in) pie, follow recipe for Plain Shortcrust Pastry, using 2 cups flour, 125 g (4 oz) butter or firm margarine and about 4 tablespoons iced water with a squeeze of lemon juice added. For a 2-crust pie, use a little more than half the dough for bottom crust, and the remainder for lid. Scraps can be used to decorate the pie if liked.

SHORTCRUST PASTRY WITH SOFT MARGARINE

Solid cooking margarine makes successful pastry but if using soft table margarine, a slightly different method of mixing is needed since the margarine is too soft to rub in with the fingertips.

125 g (4 oz) soft table margarine
1 tablespoon water
1½ cups flour, sifted

Using a fork, soften margarine with water and 2 tablespoons flour. Mash to a paste, then work in remaining flour until you have a smooth ball of dough. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour. Roll out and use as required. Makes sufficient dough to line a 20 cm (8 in) flan ring or pie plate.

RICH SHORTCRUST PASTRY (PÂTE BRISÉE À L’OEUF)

This pastry is crisper and more moisture-proof than plain shortcrust. Use it for fruit tarts, quiches and other pies and tarts with rich fillings. It is also ideal to use when making individual savoury or fruit tartlets or barquettes.

1½ cups flour
pinch salt
¼ teaspoon baking powder
125 g (4 oz) chilled butter, diced
1 egg yolk
2 teaspoons iced water
squeeze lemon juice

Make pastry in same way as for Plain Shortcrust Pastry, using egg yolk mixed with water and lemon juice as the liquid. Unless otherwise indicated in recipe, bake unsweetened rich shortcrust pastry in a preheated hot oven (220°C/425°F), and sweetened pastry in a preheated moderately hot oven (200°C/ 400°F). Makes sufficient dough to line a 20–23 cm (8–9 in) pie plate or flan ring.

VARIATIONS

For a 25 cm (10 in) pastry shell or a 2-crust 20–23 cm (8–9 in) pie, follow recipe for Rich Shortcrust Pastry, using 2 cups flour, large pinch salt, ½ teaspoon baking powder, 185 g (6 oz) butter, 1 egg yolk, about 1 tablespoon iced water and squeeze of lemon juice. For a 2-crust pie, use a little more than half the dough for bottom crust, and the remainder for lid. Scraps can be used to decorate the pie if liked.

SWEET RICH SHORTCRUST PASTRY: Follow recipe for Rich Shortcrust Pastry, beating 2 teaspoons caster sugar with egg and water before mixing with dry ingredients.

SHORTCRUST PASTRY IN THE FOOD PROCESSOR

The food processor makes tender, light pastry in moments. It makes sense to keep some diced, frozen butter on hand for this recipe.

2 cups flour
125 g (4 oz) frozen butter, cooking margarine or a mixture of both, diced
¼ teaspoon salt
2 eggs
about 1 tablespoon cold water
squeeze lemon juice

Place flour, butter and salt in food processor with steel blade in place. Process, turning on and off rapidly, until butter is cut into flour and mixture looks like coarse breadcrumbs. Mix eggs with water and lemon juice. With motor running, pour liquid quickly through feed tube. Do not use it all unless necessary – stop pouring as soon as a ball of dough forms round blade. Wrap in plastic wrap and chill for 1 hour before using. Bake as for Rich Shortcrust Pastry. Makes sufficient dough to line 2 × 18–20 cm (7–8 in) pie plates or flan rings.

VARIATION

For sweet pastry, add cup caster sugar to processor with flour, butter and salt.

CREAM CHEESE PASTRY

A rich, tender pastry for small turnovers and tartlets. Chill well before using and handle carefully.

125 g (4 oz) packaged cream cheese
125 g (4 oz) butter
1½ cups flour

Beat cream cheese and butter in a large mixing bowl until soft. Sift in flour and mix to a dough. Wrap in plastic wrap and chill for several hours or overnight. (If left overnight allow to stand at room temperature for about 1 hour before rolling out.) Makes sufficient dough for about 24 small pastries.

SOUR CREAM PASTRY

A rich, melting pastry. As it is very soft, so chill well before rolling out to make it easier to handle. Use this pastry for turnovers, individual tarts, etc.

2¼ cups flour
1 teaspoon salt
185 g (6 oz) chilled butter, diced
1 egg
½ cup sour cream

Sift flour and salt into a large bowl. Add butter and rub into flour until mixture resembles coarse breadcrumbs. Make a well in centre. Beat egg and sour cream together and pour into well. Stir from centre, gradually incorporating flour to make a soft, pliable dough. Wrap in plastic wrap and chill for 1 hour before using. Unless otherwise indicated, bake sour cream pastry in a preheated hot oven (200°C/400°F). Makes sufficient dough for 12 × 8 cm (3 in) tarts or turnovers.

BISCUIT PASTRY

This sweet, tender pastry is used for pies, tarts and tartlets and as the base for slices.

125 g (4 oz) butter
½ cup caster sugar
1 egg, beaten
1 cup plain flour
1 cup self-raising flour

Cream butter and beat in sugar little by little until mixture is white and fluffy. Beat in egg, then stir in sifted flours. Knead lightly, wrap in plastic wrap and chill for about 20 minutes or until firm enough to roll. Makes sufficient dough for a 2-crust 20–23 cm (8–9 in) pie.

PUFF PASTRY

Use for fine pastries where maximum delicacy and high, even rising are required.

2 cups flour
250 g (8 oz) butter
about cup iced water
squeeze lemon juice

Sift flour into a mixing bowl, add 30 g (1 oz) butter, and rub into flour until mixture resembles coarse breadcrumbs. Add water mixed with lemon juice and stir with a knife, then gather dough together with fingers. Place on a lightly floured surface, knead lightly and shape into a square pat. Wrap in plastic wrap and chill for 1 hour. At the same time chill remaining butter.

Remove chilled dough and butter from refrigerator; put butter into a loose plastic bag and beat with a rolling pin to make it pliable, remove from bag and then with a floured rolling pin roll it into a 15 cm (6 in) square. Butter and dough should both be firm and of same consistency. Lightly flour work surface and roll out dough to a 25 cm (10 in) square, pulling out corners to make a neat shape. Place butter diagonally on centre of dough and fold the 4 dough corners in, slightly overlapping, to make an envelope of dough completely enclosing the butter.

Flour work surface and rolling pin and, working as described under Flaky Pastries, roll dough and butter to a rectangle 3 times as long as it is wide, and 1 cm (½ in) thick. Fold bottom third up and top third down and seal edges by pressing lightly with rolling pin. This is the first fold. Turn dough round at right angles so that top flap is to your right, as if it were a book. Roll as before to a rectangle 3 times as long as it is wide and about 5 mm (¼ in) thick. Fold into 3 as before, place in a plastic bag and chill for about 30 minutes until firm but not hard. Dough has now had 2 folds. Remove dough from refrigerator and roll and fold twice more in the same manner. Chill again for about 30 minutes, then roll and fold twice more (dough has now had 6 folds). Chill again for 30 minutes, and dough is ready to use. Roll out and cut as desired, then chill again for 30 minutes before baking. Unless otherwise indicated, bake puff pastry in a preheated very hot oven (230°C/450°F). Makes sufficient dough for 2 × 18 cm (7 in) rounds or 12 small pastries or turnovers.

FLAKY PASTRY

Easier to make and only a little less delicate and high-rise than Puff Pastry. Use for pie toppings, tarts, vol-au-vent cases, etc.

2 cups flour
pinch salt
90 g (3 oz) butter
about cup iced water
90 g (3 oz) lard

Sift flour and salt into a mixing bowl, add half the butter and rub in until mixture resembles coarse breadcrumbs. Add water, stir in with a knife and gather dough into a ball with your fingers. Knead lightly on a floured work surface until smooth, then with floured hands shape into a rectangular block. Flour work surface and rolling pin and, working as described under Flaky Pastries, roll dough to a rectangle 3 times as long as it is wide and about 5 mm (¼ in) thick. Divide lard in half and work each portion and remaining butter separately with a wooden spoon until they are of same consistency as dough.

Cut one-half of lard into small pieces and place in rows of about 4, keeping well within the edges, on top of two-thirds of dough. Fold bottom third of dough up and top third down and seal edges by pressing lightly with rolling pin. Turn dough round at right angles so that edge of top flap is to your right as if it were a book. Roll as before to a rectangle 3 times as long as it is wide and 5 mm (¼ in) thick. Place remaining butter on top two-thirds as you did the lard, then fold, turn and roll out again. Repeat, using remaining lard. Place folded dough in a plastic bag and chill for at least 30 minutes before using. Chill again after rolling out and cutting, before baking. Unless otherwise indicated, bake flaky pastry in a preheated very hot oven (230°C/450°F). Makes sufficient dough for 2 × 18 cm (7 in) rounds or about 12 small pastries.

ROUGH PUFF PASTRY

The simplest of the flaky pastries. Use for sausage rolls, turnovers, etc., where you want crisp tender layers but a very high, even rise is not required.

2 cups flour
pinch salt
90 g (3 oz) butter, diced
90 g (3 oz) lard or firm cooking margarine, diced
about cup iced water
squeeze lemon juice

Sift flour and salt into a large bowl. Have the fats cool and firm but not hard. Add fats to flour and stir around with a knife until pieces are well coated. Mix water and lemon juice and stir into flour with a round-ended knife, without breaking up fat. With floured fingers, gently gather mixture into a ball, then place it on a floured work surface. Do not knead; use floured hands to shape it into a rectangular block.

Working as described under Flaky Pastries, roll out to a rectangle 3 times as long as it is wide and 1 cm (½ in) thick. Fold bottom third up and top third down and seal edges by pressing lightly with rolling pin. Turn dough round at right angles so that top flap is to your right, as if it were a book. Roll again to a rectangle about 5 mm (¼ in) thick and fold as before. Repeat twice more, then place folded dough in a plastic bag and chill for at least 30 minutes. Dough is now ready for use. Chill again after rolling out and cutting, before baking. Unless otherwise indicated, bake rough puff pastry in a preheated very hot oven (230°C/450°F). Makes sufficient dough for 2 × 20 cm (8 in) rounds or 16–20 small sausage rolls.

HOT WATER PASTRY

This pastry sets firm enough to stand by itself even before baking. It is used for raised pies and is the traditional pastry for English cold pies such as pork or veal and ham pie, even when these are made in a mould. It must be used while it is still warm since it becomes brittle when cold.

4 cups flour
¾ teaspoon salt
250 g (8 oz) lard
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons water

Warm flour, then sift with salt into a warm mixing bowl and make a well in centre. Heat lard with water and, when boiling, tip into well and mix with a wooden spoon until smooth. Use at once, keeping dough not being worked in a covered bowl over hot water. Makes sufficient dough for a 20 cm (8 in) covered raised pie.

SUET PASTRY

Suet pastry can be baked, but is usually boiled or steamed to make a soft crust for puddings or dumplings – the exception to crisp pastries.

2 cups self-raising flour
pinch salt
125 g (4 oz) fresh suet or packaged shredded suet
about cup cold water

Sift flour and salt into a mixing bowl. If using fresh suet, remove any skin and chop fine with a little of the measured flour to prevent it from sticking. Add to flour and stir around with a knife, then add most of the water, and stir with knife until dough begins to cling together. Gather into a ball with your fingers. Sprinkle in more water only if necessary to dampen any remaining dry mixture in bowl, and use the ball of dough to gather it up. Place on a lightly floured work surface and knead lightly by turning and pressing with floured heel of hand until smooth. Roll out and use at once. Make sufficient dough to line a 4-cup pudding basin.

VARIATIONS

For an extra light and spongy crust, ½ cup flour may be replaced by 1 cup loosely packed fresh white breadcrumbs. For a sweet pudding, 1 tablespoon white or brown sugar may be added to the flour.

PÂTE SUCRÉE (SWEET FLAN PASTRY)

Pâte sucrée is fine and crisp, and used for the most delicate sweet tarts.

1 cup flour
pinch salt
60 g (2 oz) butter
cup caster sugar
2 egg yolks
2 drops vanilla essence

Sift flour and salt onto a work surface and make a well in centre. Place remaining ingredients in well and work them together with the fingertips of one hand. With other hand, use a metal spatula to draw flour quickly into centre. Mix to a ball of dough. Flour work surface and knead dough lightly by turning and pressing with lightly floured heel of hand until smooth. Wrap in plastic wrap and chill for 1 hour before using. Chill again after shaping, before baking, and prick bottom just before placing in oven. Bake in a preheated moderately hot oven (190°C/375°F) until pastry is a pale biscuit colour. This pastry must not brown or the flavour will be spoilt. Makes sufficient dough to line an 18–20 cm (7–8 in) flan ring or 18 tiny tartlet moulds, or 6 individual 8 cm (3 in) tartlet tins.

VARIATION

For a 25 cm (10 in) pastry shell, follow recipe for Pâte Sucrée using 1½ cups flour, pinch salt, 90 g (3 oz) butter, ½ cup caster sugar, 3 egg yolks and 3 drops vanilla essence.

CHOUX PASTRY

Choux pastry is softer than other pastries and is shaped with a spoon or by squeezing from a piping bag. When it is cooked, it swells into crisp golden shells that are hollow inside. The secret of making shells that will hold their shape is to be sure that the pastry is cooked and dry right through. A well-cooked shell should be golden-brown, firm to the touch and feel very light in the hand.

1 cup flour
1 cup water
125 g (4 oz) butter, cut into pieces
½ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon sugar (for sweet puffs)
4 eggs

Sift flour onto a sheet of greaseproof paper. Put water, butter, salt and sugar, if using, into a medium-size saucepan. Bring slowly to the boil (butter must be melted before water boils). Immediately remove from heat, tip in flour all at once and stir vigorously with a wooden spatula. Return to heat and continue stirring until mixture forms a mass, leaves sides of saucepan and begins to film the bottom – this will take only a short time. Remove from heat and cool a little. Turn mixture into bowl of an electric mixer or leave in saucepan. Beat eggs together and add to dough, a little at a time, beating after each addition until thoroughly incorporated. Do not add all the egg unless necessary; dough is ready when it is as shiny as satin and holds its shape on a spoon. Shape while warm.

To cook, first place in a preheated very hot oven (230°C/450°F) so that the pastry puffs quickly, then reduce heat to moderate (180°C/350°F) so that pastry will cook without over-browning. To be failsafe, leave cooked shells in the turned-off oven with door slightly open for 20 minutes to ensure that they are thoroughly dried out. Makes sufficient dough for 12 medium-size éclairs or puffs.

PASTRY CREAM (CRÈME PÂTISSIÈRE)

See Icings, Frostings and Fillings.

PÂTE BRISÉE AND PÂTE SUCRÉE

see Pastry.

PÂTÉ AND TERRINE

Pâté and terrine are standard features in any French charcuterie, and the basis of many a lunch for those who have travelled in that country.

It is difficult to make a firm distinction between a pâté and a terrine. A fine-textured liver pâté is almost always called a pâté, yet a coarse, meaty product might be called either a pâté de campagne or a terrine maison.

Originally, a pâté was always enclosed in pastry, and was made with almost any sort of meat or fish. Later, it came to be baked in an earthenware dish (a terrine), which was lined with thinly sliced pork fat to keep the mixture moist.

Most pâtés and terrines contain a good proportion of pork, especially fat belly pork. When making a pâté or terrine, if possible choose particular cuts of meat and either mince it yourself or have it minced by the butcher, rather than buying ready-minced meat. Fat is essential to the texture of the pâté or terrine, and enables it to be sliced without crumbling. It also means that a pâté or terrine is served without butter, and with just crusty French bread or a good wholemeal bread, plus some pickled gherkins or olives or a crisp salad.

A pâté or terrine is sometimes served as a first course; in this case, it is usually accompanied by thin, crisp Melba Toast or warm, freshly made white or brown toast or a selection of savoury crackers.

PORK AND VEAL TERRINE

500 g (1 lb) minced pork
500 g (1 lb) minced veal
1 clove garlic, crushed with 1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon dried thyme
½ teaspoon ground cloves
freshly ground black pepper
grated rind ½ lemon
1 egg
½ cup dry sherry or dry vermouth
thin slices pork back fat or bacon rashers, rind removed
125 g (4 oz) sliced cooked ham, cut into fine strips
1 bay leaf

Combine minced meats, garlic salt, thyme, cloves, pepper, lemon rind, egg and sherry or vermouth. Mix well. Taste and correct seasoning if necessary. Line a 21 × 11 cm (8½ × 4½ in) terrine or loaf tin with pork fat or bacon. Spoon half meat mixture into tin, top with ham strips, then spread remaining meat mixture over. Place bay leaf on top. Cover with foil and lid, if using terrine. Stand in roasting tin half-filled with water and cook in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for about 1½ hours. Cool under heavy weight, then chill. Flavour develops after 1–2 days. Serves 8–10.

VARIATIONS

Substitute 6 cleaned, sliced chicken livers for ham strips.

Different herbs and spices can be used to vary the flavour. Marjoram, tarragon, parsley and lemon thyme can be added sparingly; nutmeg, allspice, mace and crushed juniper berries can impart different and distinctive flavours. It is important to taste the mixture to judge how much to add; you can cook a small ball of mixture for a few minutes in a little butter or oil for a better idea of the final taste of the cooked terrine.

RABBIT TERRINE (TERRINE DE LAPIN)

1 rabbit
125 g (4 oz) lean belly pork
125 g (4 oz) boneless shoulder veal
1 teaspoon salt
freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon grated onion
¼ teaspoon ground allspice
¼ teaspoon nutmeg
2 tablespoons brandy
½ cup dry white wine
2 sprigs fresh thyme or marjoram
1 clove garlic, bruised
thin slices pork back fat or bacon rashers, rind removed
1 bay leaf

Remove flesh from rabbit, and mince finely with pork and veal. Season with salt and pepper. Blend in onion, spices, brandy and wine. Bury herbs and bruised garlic in centre of mixture, cover and leave overnight. Line a 21 × 11 cm (8½ × 4½ in) terrine or loaf tin with thin slices pork fat or bacon. Taste meat mixture and correct seasoning. Remove garlic and herbs. Pack meat mixture into prepared tin and place bay leaf on top. Cover well with foil and lid, if using terrine. Stand in roasting tin half-filled with water and cook in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for about 1½ hours. Cool under heavy weight, then chill. Allow to mature 1–2 days before eating. Serves 4–6.

BRANDIED CHICKEN LIVER PÂTÉ

90 g (3 oz) butter
1 onion, chopped
1 clove garlic, crushed
250 g (8 oz) chicken livers
1 bay leaf
few sprigs fresh thyme or oregano, or pinch dried
2 teaspoons brandy
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Melt 30 g (1 oz) butter in a frying pan and cook onion and garlic over low heat until onion is soft and transparent. Add chicken livers and cook for 2–3 minutes, tossing from time to time. Add crumbled bay leaf and thyme or oregano, and cook for 1 minute longer. Cool. Chop livers roughly, then pound mixture with wooden spoon or blend in a blender. Melt the remaining butter and stir into liver mixture with brandy. Season with salt and pepper. Pack the mixture into small dish or mould and chill. If desired, unmould before serving. If pâté is to be kept several days, cover with thin film of melted butter. Serves 4.

CHICKEN TERRINE (TERRINE DE POULET)

1 chicken, about ½ –1.5 kg (2½ –3 lb)
2 eggs
½ cup cream
2 tablespoons brandy
salt and freshly ground black pepper
250 g (8 oz) cooked ham, finely chopped
250 g (8oz) boneless shoulder veal, minced
thin slices pork back fat
½ cup finely chopped fresh herbs (parsley, tarragon, chives)

Remove meat from chicken and cut into strips. Beat eggs with cream, add brandy and season with salt and pepper. Combine with ham and minced veal. Line a 21 × 11 cm (8½ × 4½ in) terrine or loaf tin with pork fat. Spread layer of meat mixture on bottom, cover with strips of chicken and sprinkle with herbs. Continue in layers until all ingredients are used, ending with meat mixture. Cover with foil and lid, if using terrine. Stand in roasting tin half-filled with water and cook in a preheated hot oven (200°C/400°F) for about 1 hour. Cool under heavy weight, then chill. If desired, unmould before serving. Serves 6–8.

PAUPIETTES

Thin slices of meat, fish or poultry, wrapped around a stuffing and braised. A French term, paupiette is probably most commonly used with veal; thin slices of beef, rolled around a stuffing and braised, are usually referred to as beef olives.

VEAL PAUPIETTES (PAUPIETTES DE VEAU)

6 thin veal steaks
1 clove garlic, crushed with ½ teaspoon salt
2–3 leaves fresh sage, finely chopped, or pinch dried
6 slices cooked ham
6 tablespoons fresh white breadcrumbs
1 tablespoon flour
oil
½ cup dry white wine
2 ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped
2 teaspoons tomato paste
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Flatten veal steaks, then cut each in half. Mix garlic salt with sage and rub into one side of each piece of veal. Place half a slice of ham on each piece of veal and top with breadcrumbs. Roll up and secure with wooden toothpicks or tie with fine string. Roll in flour. Heat oil in a frying pan and brown veal rolls on all sides. Add wine, tomatoes and tomato paste, and season with salt and pepper. Simmer for about 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove toothpicks or string before serving. Serves 6.

PAVLOVA

With a crisp meringue outside, delicate marshmallow-like softness inside, filled with cream and topped with fruit, Australia’s most famous contribution to the culinary world was named for the great ballerina Anna Pavlova, and is a queen of desserts.

Pavlova can be baked and served in a fluted china flan dish, moulded in a springform tin or shaped into a free-form dome. Strawberries and passionfruit are two classic toppings, but any fresh, frozen or canned fruits can be used, or the pavlova can be topped with lemon cheese or apricot sauce.

BASIC PAVLOVA

6 egg whites, at room temperature
pinch salt
2 cups caster sugar
1½ teaspoons vinegar
1½ teaspoons vanilla essence
whipped cream for filling
fruit or other topping of your choice

If you have a gas oven, preheat it to very hot (230°C/450°F) before starting to mix pavlova. If you have an electric oven, preheat it to slow (150°C/ 300°F). Beat egg whites with salt at high speed until soft peaks form. Add sugar, 1 tablespoon at a time, beating well after each addition. Stop beating when all sugar has been incorporated and fold in vinegar and vanilla. Pile mixture into a greased 20 cm (8 in) china flan dish or springform tin and lightly smooth top. Or cover a baking tray with greased foil, mark a 20 cm (8 in) diameter circle on it and pile mixture onto the circle; mound up sides with a spatula and make a slight depression on top. If using a gas oven, turn heat to lowest temperature, put pavlova in and bake for 1½ hours or until crisp on top and a pale straw colour. If using an electric oven, put pavlova in and bake for 45 minutes, then turn oven off and leave with door shut for 1 hour. Remove pavlova from oven and cool completely. Remove sides of spring-form tin, if using. Fill the pavlova generously with whipped cream, then with your choice of topping. Serves 6–8.

NOTE: The meringue may also be sprinkled with blanched, slivered almonds before baking. They will toast to a golden-brown.

ROLLED PAVLOVA

4 egg whites
pinch salt
cup caster sugar
1 teaspoon cornflour
1½ teaspoons vinegar
½ teaspoon vanilla essence
extra caster sugar
1¼ cups cream
1 punnet strawberries, hulled and sliced
pulp from 1–2 passionfruits
sifted icing sugar to dust

Line a 26 × 30 cm (10 × 12 in) Swiss roll tin with baking paper. Beat egg whites with salt until stiff peaks form. Beat in ½ cup sugar, 2 tablespoons at a time. Gently fold in remaining sugar, cornflour, vinegar and vanilla and spoon into prepared pan. Smooth surface. Bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/ 350°F) for 12–15 minutes or until set on the top and springy to the touch. Turn out onto a clean tea-towel sprinkled generously with caster sugar and leave for 5 minutes on a wire rack to cool. Roll up gently from the short end, using the tea-towel to assist the rolling. Leave for 30 minutes or until cool.

Whip the cream to soft peaks, add half the sliced strawberries and fold through the cream. Unroll the pavlova, spread with the cream and scatter with the passionfruits and remaining strawberries. Roll up again using the tea-towel to assist and place seam side down on a serving plate. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes and dust with sifted icing sugar to serve. Serve cut into thick slices. Serves 8.

PAWPAW

Also known as papaya, this tropical fruit is found in many Pacific countries. When properly ripe, its skin and flesh should be a deep golden-yellow; one variety is pinkish-red.

The simplest way to enjoy pawpaw is to peel and halve it, remove the tiny black seeds and cut the flesh into cubes or wedges. Sprinkle with a little lemon juice, chill, and serve as a dessert or breakfast dish.

Pawpaw may be combined with other fruits in a fruit salad – it is particularly good with passionfruit. An attractive and refreshing combination is pawpaw with slices of kiwi fruit, mandarin segments and passionfruit pulp, lightly sweetened and sprinkled with Kirsch, and well chilled before serving.

The juice of pawpaw contains an enzyme, papain, which can be used to break down the fibres of meat and tenderise it.

PAWPAW SORBET

Pawpaw sorbet makes an excellent dessert after curries or highly spiced foods.

1 ripe pawpaw, peeled, halved and seeded
1–3 tablespoons lemon juice
1 egg white
2 tablespoons caster sugar

Chop pawpaw flesh roughly and blend, a few pieces at a time, or push through a sieve, to make a thick, smooth purée. Combine with lemon juice to taste and pour into chilled ice cream tray. Freeze until just starting to set around edges. Whisk egg white until stiff and gradually beat in sugar. Turn pawpaw mixture into chilled bowl and beat until smooth. Fold in egg white. Return to ice cream tray, cover with foil and freeze until firm. Transfer to refrigerator 15–30 minutes before serving. Serves 6–8.

PAWPAW AND MANGO WHIP

1 large ripe mango, peeled, seeded and chopped, or 1 × 425 g can mango slices, drained and chopped
1 small ripe pawpaw, peeled, seeded and chopped
2 tablespoons rum
1 tablespoon lime or lemon juice
2 tablespoons sugar
1 cup cream, whipped

Purée mango and pawpaw in a food processor or blender, or push through a nylon sieve. Transfer to a bowl and stir in rum, juice and sugar. Fold in cream. Cover and chill for several hours. Spoon into a serving dish and serve with extra whipped cream and crisp biscuits. Serves 6.

PEACH

A delicious fruit, which may be white or yellow-fleshed, and a slipstone (the fruit readily separates from the stone) or clingstone (the fruit clings to the stone). Peaches are with us from early summer until autumn, one of the great joys of these months, and very welcome if they are perfectly ripe and slightly chilled.

Like many other fruits, the peach is thought to have originated in China and to have been introduced to Europe by way of Persia. The best known are probably elberta and hale, both of which are large, yellow-fleshed slipstone peaches, ideal for eating fresh or for cooking.

Any surplus of peaches may be made into jam or frozen, but canning or home-bottling is the most popular way of preserving them for year-round enjoyment. Canned peaches may be halved or sliced, in heavy or light syrup or in a fruit nectar; they may be substituted for fresh cooked peaches in most recipes.

Peaches combine nicely with other summer fruits in fruit salad or compote. Sliced fresh peaches covered with passionfruit pulp make an elegantly simple and most delicious dessert. And in a different context, peaches highlight the flavour of meat and poultry; serve with grilled ham steaks and roast duck.

To peel peaches: Pour boiling water over peaches; leave to stand for 1–3 minutes. Skins will loosen and slip off easily. If peaches are really ripe, skin may be rubbed off without boiling water treatment.

Sprinkle peaches with lemon juice to prevent discoloration if they are not to be cooked or eaten immediately.

To poach peaches: Peel peaches as above, halve or slice as desired. Prepare syrup, using ½ cup sugar per cup water. Add peaches to hot syrup to cover, simmer very gently for 3–5 minutes, cool in syrup. If desired, remove peaches with slotted spoon, reduce syrup over high heat, then pour over cooked peaches. Chill.

BRANDIED PEACHES

Brandied peaches may be served as a dinner party dessert with whipped cream or as an accompaniment to roast duck or ham, or grilled pork chops.

peaches, peeled, halved and stoned
sugar
brandy

Prick peaches all over with fine, sharp needle. Prepare enough sugar syrup to cover peaches with equal quantities sugar and water, and simmer peaches for 5 minutes. Lift out carefully, pack into wide-mouthed sterilised jars and half fill with sugar syrup. Cool, then add brandy to cover peaches completely. Seal jars and store in a cool, dark place for 2–3 months before using.

NOTE: For sterilising jars see Jams.

PEACHES IN WINE

A striking dessert that is very simple to prepare.

1 ripe peach per person, peeled, stoned and sliced
caster sugar (optional)
dry red or white wine, or sweet white wine

Place peach slices in long-stemmed wine glasses. Sprinkle with a little sugar if liked, then fill glasses with wine. Chill for 1 hour. Serve with thin, crisp sweet biscuits.

PEACHES AFLAME

An impressive dinner party dessert.

6 peaches, peeled, halved, stoned and poached, or 1 large can peach halves
½ teaspoon arrowroot
¼ cup brandy
½ cup toasted, slivered almonds
ice cream to serve

Pour ½ cup peach syrup (from poaching or can) into top of chafing dish or pan and bring to the boil. Blend arrowroot with a little cold water, stir into syrup and stir until slightly thickened. Add peaches and baste with syrup until heated through. Warm brandy, ignite and pour over peaches. Top with almonds and serve with ice cream. Serves 6.

SPICED PEACHES

Grilled peach halves flavoured with sugar and spice, which go well with ham or tongue.

4 large peaches, peeled, halved and stoned
3 tablespoons brown sugar
16 whole cloves
sprinkling cinnamon and nutmeg
45 g (1½ oz) butter

Arrange peach halves in a heatproof dish. Sprinkle with brown sugar, stud each peach half with 2 cloves and then sprinkle with cinnamon and nutmeg. Dot with butter. Grill under a preheated grill for about 5 minutes. Serve with hot ham or tongue. Serves 8.

PEANUT

Also known as the groundnut, because, although the flowers of this vine-like plant are borne above ground, the nuts are really edible seeds in pods which form and grow underground.

Peanuts are highly nutritious, being rich in fat and protein, which is why peanut butter is often recommended for children. Peanut oil is a light, almost tasteless oil which can be used for salads or for cooking, and especially for deep-frying.

In cooking the peanut may be used raw, still in its reddish skin, or roasted. Some recipes might call for roasted salted peanuts, which is the usual way peanuts are enjoyed as a snack. Sugar-and caramel-coated peanuts are also available commercially.

Peanuts are particularly important in the cooking of many Asian countries. In almost any city from Bangkok to Singapore you will find satays – five or six small cubes of meat on bamboo skewers, grilled quickly over a tiny heap of hot coals and served with a spicy-hot peanut sauce. Cans or bottles of ready-made satay sauce may be found in most Asian food shops, but it is easy to make, starting with either fresh roasted peanuts or peanut butter.

CHOCOLATE PEANUT BISCUITS

125 g (4 oz) butter
¾ cup firmly packed brown sugar
1 egg
1 tablespoon cocoa powder
1½ cups self-raising flour
250 g (8 oz) raw peanuts

Cream butter with brown sugar, add egg and beat well. Sift cocoa with flour, stir into egg mixture, then add peanuts. Drop teaspoons of mixture onto greased baking trays and bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for 15 minutes. Makes about 30.

PEANUT CRISPIES

2 egg whites
pinch salt
¾ cup sugar
30 g (1 oz) butter, melted
½ teaspoon vanilla essence
4 cups cornflakes
¾ cup desiccated coconut
¾ cup chopped raw peanuts

Beat egg whites with salt until stiff. Gradually beat in sugar, then add remaining ingredients and fold in gently but thoroughly. Drop small teaspoons of mixture into patty cases and bake in a preheated moderately hot oven (190°C/375°F) for 20–30 minutes. Makes about 48.

GADO GADO (INDONESIAN VEGETABLE SALAD WITH PEANUT SAUCE)

½ small cabbage, shredded
1 small cucumber, finely sliced
1 cup beans, parboiled
2 carrots, cut into thin strips
1 cup green bean sprouts

Peanut sauce

1 cup raw peanuts
½ cup oil
1 large onion, sliced
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1 teaspoon chilli powder
½ teaspoon shrimp paste or shrimp sauce
2 cups coconut milk or water
½ teaspoon brown sugar
½ teaspoon grated lemon rind
1 tablespoon vinegar
salt

Arrange vegetables on salad platter. To make peanut filling, fry peanuts for 5 minutes in dry pan. Cool. Remove skins, then grind peanuts to a paste. Heat oil in pan and stir-fry onion and garlic with chilli powder and shrimp paste or sauce. Add ground peanuts and coconut milk or water and bring to the boil, stirring constantly. Add remaining ingredients and simmer gently until sauce thickens. Serve at room temperature. Dilute with hot water if too thick. Pour sauce over vegetables or serve separately. Serves 6.

NOTE: Shrimp paste or shrimp sauce can be purchased at Chinese grocery stores.

BEEF SATAY

1 tablespoon finely chopped garlic
2 chillies, finely chopped
1 tablespoon finely chopped onion
½ cup coconut milk
1 tablespoon ground coriander
1 tablespoon soy sauce
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 kg (2 lb) sirloin or rump steak, cubed

Peanut sauce

¾ cup peanut oil
2 tablespoons dried onion flakes
1 dried chilli
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 tablespoon soy sauce
375 g (12 oz) crunchy peanut butter
1 tablespoon sugar
½–¾ cup coconut milk or water

Combine all ingredients except steak. Add steak to this marinade and leave for 1 hour. To make peanut sauce, heat oil in wok or deep frying pan. Put onion flakes in a small metal strainer and lower into hot oil. Fry until golden, being careful not to burn. Drain on crumpled paper towels. Fry chilli in oil until puffed and crisp. Remove and drain. Discard chilli stalk and seeds and crumble or chop chilli. Set aside. Combine lemon juice, soy sauce, peanut butter, sugar and coconut milk or water in a saucepan and heat gently, stirring. Remove from heat. When cold, add fried onion and crumbled chilli. Mix thoroughly. Add more liquid if necessary to make a dipping sauce consistency. Thread meat on skewers and grill over hot coals or under a preheated grill, brushing occasionally with marinade when turning. Serve hot with sauce. Serves 6.

NOTE: Dried onion flakes are available from most Asian stores and Asian grocery sections of supermarkets.

PEANUT BUTTER

This nutritious paste of ground peanuts is a childhood favourite, and many a peanut-loving adult retains a fondness for it.

Spread on bread, toast or biscuits, peanut butter makes a good snack, and it combines with crisp bacon, celery, dates or raisins for wholesome sandwiches which carry well. Peanut butter cookies and cakes are other ways to enjoy its warm flavour. It is easy to make peanut butter at home in a blender or food processor.

PEANUT BUTTER

1½–3 tablespoons peanut oil
1 cup roasted peanuts
salt

If using a blender, put 1½ tablespoons oil into the container and, with motor running, add peanuts through hole in lid. Add more oil as necessary and, if nuts are not already salted, about ½ teaspoon salt. Process until you have consistency you want, from chunky to smooth.

If using a processor, put peanuts into the container and process, switching on and off, until coarsely chopped. With motor running, add oil through feed tube until you obtain consistency you want and, if nuts are not already salted, about ½ teaspoon salt. Makes about ¾ cup.

PEANUT BUTTER COOKIES

½ cup peanut butter
125 g (4 oz) butter
½ cup sugar
½ cup firmly packed brown sugar
½ teaspoon vanilla essence
1 egg
1¼ cups flour
½ teaspoon baking powder
¾ teaspoon bicarbonate of soda
¼ teaspoon salt

Cream peanut butter, butter and sugars together, then beat in vanilla and egg. Sift in flour, baking powder, bicarbonate of soda and salt and mix to a soft dough. Wrap in plastic wrap and chill for 30 minutes. Roll dough into walnut-size balls and place, well apart, on greased baking trays. Flatten, crisscross fashion, with a fork dipped in flour. Bake in a preheated moderately hot oven (190°C/375°F) for 10–12 minutes until risen and golden-brown. Makes about 35.

VARIATIONS

PEANUT BUTTER AND RAISIN COOKIES: Follow recipe for Peanut Butter Cookies, stirring in ¼ cup chopped raisins with the flour.

ORANGE PEANUT BUTTER COOKIES: Follow recipe for Peanut Butter Cookies, substituting 1 teaspoon grated orange rind for vanilla.

PEANUT BUTTER SPICE CAKE

30 g (1 oz) butter, softened
¾ cup caster sugar
5 tablespoons smooth peanut butter, at room temperature
1 large egg
1 cups self-raising flour
pinch salt
½ teaspoon each ground cinnamon, nutmeg and ginger
¼ teaspoon ground cloves
1 cup buttermilk

Cream butter with sugar until light and fluffy, then beat in peanut butter. Add egg and mix well. Sift together flour, salt and spices and fold alternately into creamed mixture with buttermilk, beginning and ending with flour. Turn batter into greased and floured 20 cm (8 in) square cake tin and place in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F). Bake for 40 minutes or until a skewer inserted in centre comes out clean. Let cake cool in tin on a wire rack for 10 minutes before turning it out to cool completely. Serve plain, or ice with chocolate icing.

NOTE: If you have no buttermilk, use 1 cup ordinary milk soured with 1 tablespoon lemon juice.

PEANUT BUTTER CHEWS

½ cup crunchy peanut butter
3 tablespoons honey
1 teaspoon vanilla essence
½ cup instant skim milk powder
pinch salt
3 tablespoons icing sugar, sifted
½ cup finely chopped unsalted peanuts

Mix all ingredients, except chopped peanuts, kneading them together with your hands until well blended. Roll mixture into 2.5 cm (1 in) balls and coat them in peanuts. Store in refrigerator. Makes about 20.

PEAR

The sweet, juicy pear is one of the most versatile of fruits. It may be enjoyed as is or cooked, and it blends as well with wines and liqueurs as it does with other fruits such as raspberries and blackcurrants.

The first pears usually arrive on the market towards the end of summer. A succession of varieties and controlled atmosphere storage allows us to have fresh pears almost all year. Canned pears can also substitute for fresh poached pears in most recipes.

The main varieties of pear available are the Williams (also known as Duchess, Bartlett, Bon Chrétien), the Winter Cole, Beurré Bosc and the Packham. The Williams is an early season variety, yellow tinged with pale green, and is usually very juicy; it is delicious eaten with Gorgonzola cheese, or freshly sliced and covered with passionfruit pulp. The Winter Cole is a small pear, rather round in shape and greenish, turning to russet; it is characteristically pale yellow when ripe. The Beurré Bosc is elongated, with a russet skin changing to dark cinnamon when mature; the flesh is white and juicy. The Packham, similar in appearance to the Williams, is greenish-yellow turning to light yellow when ripe, its flesh being white and juicy when ripe. The Packham is good for poaching or in a tart.

In France, an eau de vie (fruit alcohol) is made from pears; a judicious dose may be added to a simple pear dessert for variety.

To poach pears: Choose pears which are still under-ripe, but not too hard. Peel gently with vegetable peeler, rub with lemon juice to prevent browning. Halve lengthways, remove cores with a melon baller or small knife.

Poach in syrup of 1 part sugar to 2 parts water until just tender. A piece of vanilla bean may be added to syrup. Remove fruit with slotted spoon and reduce syrup, then pour over fruit.

Poached pears may be served simply with cream or custard, or with a blackcurrant or raspberry purée.

PEARS IN RED WINE

6 small pears
½ cup sugar
½ cup red wine
½ cup water
strip lemon rind
1 cinnamon stick

Peel pears, leaving stalks. Dissolve sugar in wine and water in a saucepan, then add lemon rind and cinnamon and bring to the boil. Boil 1 minute. Arrange pears upright in ovenproof dish and pour syrup over. Cover and cook in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for about 1 hour or until tender. If pears are very hard, they may take as long as 2 hours. Arrange pears in serving dish and pour over wine syrup. Serve cold, accompanied by whipped cream if desired. Serves 6.

VARIATION

If pears are almost ripe, they may be cooked over low heat on top of stove in prepared wine syrup. Remove pears with a slotted spoon when tender, reduce syrup over high heat and pour over pears.

PEARS WITH SABAYON SAUCE

6 small pears
½ cup sugar
1 cup water
1 vanilla bean
4 egg yolks
½ cup sweet white wine
cup caster sugar
1 tablespoon Grand Marnier or Cointreau
1 tablespoon flaked almonds, lightly toasted

Peel pears, leaving stalks. Dissolve sugar in water in a saucepan, add vanilla bean and bring to boil. Boil 5 minutes. Poach pears gently in syrup until tender, then cool in syrup. Place egg yolks, wine, caster sugar and liqueur in top of double saucepan over simmering water. Beat vigorously with rotary beater until mixture becomes thick and creamy. Do not overcook or allow water to boil or mixture will curdle. Drain pears, place in serving dish or dishes, coat with sauce and sprinkle with almonds. Serves 6.

VARIATIONS

PEARS WITH RUM SABAYON SAUCE: Poach pears as above and cool. Make sauce using 4 tablespoons poaching syrup and 2 tablespoons white rum in place of white wine. Sprinkle with blanched juliennes (matchsticks) of orange and lemon rind instead of almonds.

POIRES BELLE HÉLÈNE: Peel pears, halve and remove cores. Poach as above and cool. Place in bowls, add a scoop of vanilla ice cream to each and pour over hot Chocolate Sauce.

PEARS WITH SPINACH

1 bunch spinach
1 large ripe pear, peeled and cored
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon cream (optional)

Trim spinach leaves from stems and rinse well. Cook in a large pan, with no additional water, for about 5 minutes. Drain, and squeeze out excess water. Poach pear in water until very soft. Drain. Purée spinach and pear together in a blender. Season with salt and pepper and reheat gently. Blend in cream, if desired. Serves 4–6.

PEAS, GREEN

Although fresh green peas may be found throughout most of the year, they are really at their best in spring. Freshly picked while still young and small, they have a sweetness and delicacy perhaps best appreciated when the peas are served on their own, as a separate course, although spring peas also make a good accompaniment to spring lamb or veal. The very tiniest peas are what the French call petits pois.

Since about half the weight of the peas is in the pods, allow 1 kg (2 lb) fresh peas for 4 servings. Peas may be shelled in advance, but wrap them in a damp cloth or cover them with their pods so they do not lose their moisture. A few pea pods may be cooked with the peas for added flavour, and if they are young and fresh, pea pods can be made into a soup.

Generally, the younger and fresher the peas, the less cooking time they will need. Older peas are still tasty if cooked slowly with additional flavourings, such as ham or herbs. Frozen and canned peas may not equal fresh peas in flavour, but they make up for this in convenience. Their flavour can be improved by treating them in ways similar to those for fresh peas.

GREEN PEAS

1 kg (2 lb) fresh peas, shelled
salt
1 sprig fresh mint (optional)
30 g (1 oz) butter

Drop peas into enough boiling salted water to cover. Add mint, if using, and cook for 10–15 minutes until just tender. Drain, refresh under cold water, then return to pan with butter. Shake over low heat until hot and coated with butter. Serve immediately. Serves 4.

VARIATIONS

Chopped fresh mint or summer savory may be added to peas with butter; 125 g (4 oz) sliced sautéed mushrooms may be combined with peas just before serving.

PETITS POIS À LA FRANÇAISE (GREEN PEAS FRENCH-STYLE)

1 kg (2 lb) fresh peas, shelled
6 lettuce leaves, or small lettuce heart, shredded
12 spring onions, peeled
60 g (2 oz) butter
2 sprigs each fresh parsley and chervil
1 teaspoon sugar
salt
3 tablespoons water

Place peas in a large saucepan with half the lettuce, the onions, butter, herbs, sugar and salt. Cover with remaining lettuce and add water. Cover and cook over gentle heat for 15–20 minutes, shaking pan from time to time, until peas are tender. Remove herbs and adjust seasoning to taste before serving. Serves 4.

VARIATION

500 g (1 lb) frozen peas may be substituted for fresh peas.

RISI E BISI (RICE WITH PEAS)

In Italy, this dish is considered a soup but it is eaten with a fork. Serve it as a separate course, or as a lunch or supper dish.

30 g (1 oz) butter
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 rasher lean bacon, rind removed, diced
2 golden shallots, chopped
5 cups chicken stock
¾ cup Italian short-grain rice
1½ cups shelled fresh peas or frozen peas
salt
1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley
grated Parmesan cheese to serve

Heat butter and oil in a large saucepan and cook bacon and shallots for about 5 minutes. Add stock and rice, bring to the boil and stir well. If using fresh peas, add with rice; add frozen peas after about 15 minutes. Cook over low heat for 20–25 minutes or until rice is moist and tender. Season with salt, and sprinkle with parsley. Serve with Parmesan offered separately. Serves 4–6.

PEA PURÉE

1½ cups shelled fresh peas
pinch sugar
30 g (1 oz) butter
¼ cup cream
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Cook peas in boiling salted water for 15 minutes or until very tender. Drain, then rub through sieve or purée in a blender. Return to saucepan, add sugar and butter and stir until butter is incorporated into purée. Stir in cream, and season with salt and pepper. Serves 4.

VARIATION

Substitute frozen peas for fresh. Cook as for fresh peas but reduce cooking time.

GREEN PEA SOUP

30 g (1 oz) butter
1 spring onion, finely chopped
1 slice cooked ham, cut into fine strips
1 cup shelled fresh peas
pinch sugar
3½ cups chicken or veal stock
1 sprig fresh mint
salt and freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup cream

Melt butter in a saucepan and cook spring onion until soft. Add ham and peas and toss in butter. Add sugar, stock and mint and season with salt and pepper. Simmer until peas are very soft. Remove mint. Rub through a sieve or purée in a blender. Add cream, adjust seasoning and reheat gently. Serves 4.

PECAN

An American nut of the hickory family, rather like a walnut in flavour and appearance; indeed, in many recipes walnuts and pecans are interchangeable.

The name comes from the Native American word for these nuts, which were quickly adopted by the new settlers in North America. Of all the pecan dishes, perhaps the best known is pecan pie.

PECAN SANDWICH SPREAD

½ cup finely chopped pecans
¼ cup finely chopped celery
¼ cup chopped stuffed olives
1½ tablespoons Mayonnaise

Combine all ingredients. Spread on lightly buttered wholemeal or white bread. Makes about 1 cup, or sufficient for 4 sandwiches.

SOUTHERN PECAN PIE

1 cup sugar
¼ cup golden syrup
¼ cup water
¼ cup melted butter
3 eggs, well beaten
1 cup pecan halves
1 × 23 cm (9 in) unbaked Rich Shortcrust Pastry shell

Mix together sugar, golden syrup, water and melted butter. Add eggs and pecans and stir well. Pour into pastry shell. Bake in a preheated hot oven (200°C/ 400°F) for 10 minutes, then reduce heat to moderate (180°C/350°F) and continue baking for about 30 minutes. Serve warm or cold. Serves 8.

PECAN BALLS

125 g (4 oz) butter, softened
2 tablespoons sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla essence
1 cup ground or finely chopped pecans
1 cup flour, sifted
½ cup icing sugar

Cream butter with sugar until fluffy. Mix in vanilla and pecans. Add flour in 2 batches, stirring after each addition until thoroughly blended. Roll into small balls, and place about 5 cm (2 in) apart on ungreased baking trays. Bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/ 350°F) for 12–15 minutes or until pale brown. Sift icing sugar onto a flat plate. Roll biscuits in icing sugar as soon as removed from oven. Cool on wire racks. Makes about 20.

BUTTER PECAN ICE CREAM

A toasted pecan–flavoured ice cream.

½ cup chopped pecans
60 g (2 oz) butter
1½ tablespoons cornflour
½ cup sugar
2 tablespoons brown sugar
1 cup milk
1 teaspoon vanilla essence
1 cup cream

Toss pecans with butter in a frying pan over gentle heat until lightly toasted. Cool. Mix cornflour and sugars. Blend in milk. Pour into saucepan and cook until thick, stirring constantly. Remove from heat and stir in vanilla. Chill. Whip cream until stiff. Fold in chilled mixture and pecans. Pour into ice cream tray and freeze. Serves 4–6.

PÊCHE MELBA (PEACH MELBA)

This famous dessert was created by one of the world’s greatest chefs, Auguste Escoffier, to honour Dame Nellie Melba, after he had heard her sing in Lohengrin. Melba’s performance inspired a dessert of peaches on vanilla ice cream, served between the wings of an ice-carved swan and covered with spun sugar. Later the dish was given its distinctive flavour by dispensing with the swan and spun sugar and covering the peaches and ice cream with fresh raspberry purée. The purée became know as ‘sauce Melba’.

Today, pêche Melba is served in great restaurants all over the world, and remains as distinctive a dish as it was in Dame Melba’s time.

PÊCHE MELBA

½ cup sugar
2 cups water
1 vanilla bean
4 fresh peaches, peeled
500 g (1lb) fresh or frozen raspberries
½ cup icing sugar, sifted
2 cups French Vanilla Ice Cream

Place sugar, water and vanilla bean in a saucepan over medium heat. Stir until sugar dissolves, then bring to the boil and simmer for 5 minutes. Place peaches in syrup, cover and poach gently for 5–10 minutes or until just tender. Remove from syrup, drain and chill, covered. Rub raspberries through a nylon sieve or purée in a food processor or blender. Gradually add icing sugar until sauce thickens. Pile ice cream in a glass dish, cover top with peaches, whole or halved according to size, and spoon raspberry sauce over peaches. Serves 4.

PEPPER

The world’s most important spice, grown in tropical countries such as Indonesia and India. Highly aromatic and with a pungent biting flavour, pepper is used to season all types of savoury dishes based on meat, poultry, game, fish, eggs, cheese and vegetables. It can even enter into sweet recipes, as a spice rather than seasoning, for example in the German biscuits pfeffernüsse.

The most commonly available types of pepper are black or white, both of which may be found as peppercorns (whole dried berries) or as ground pepper. Like most spices, the flavour deteriorates after grinding, and pepper is best if freshly ground. Ideally, there should always be two pepper grinders in the kitchen, one for black pepper and one for white; ground white pepper should be used in pale-coloured dishes and sauces, where specks of black would spoil the appearance.

Black peppercorns are the dried berries of the pepper vine (Piper nigrum), picked while still green and not completely ripe; on drying, they become dark brown or black. They are more aromatic than white peppercorns.

White peppercorns are fully ripe berries, from which the outer hull is removed before drying. They are hotter than black peppercorns.

Green peppercorns are the berries picked while still green, then preserved in brine. They are usually available in small cans or jars, and are soft enough to be ground or mashed to a paste. Their flavour is much milder than black or white peppercorns. Green peppercorns are often used with duck, and in pâtés or as an alternative to black peppercorns in Pepper Steak.

Pink or red peppercorns come from an entirely different plant, a tree native to South America and sometimes referred to as the Brazilian pepper tree. Recent research has shown that many people have allergic reactions to pink peppercorns, so their use should be approached with caution.

CURRIED CHICKEN WITH GREEN PEPPERCORNS

¼ cup vegetable oil
4 onions, finely chopped
1 tablespoon green peppercorns, drained and crushed
1 slice fresh ginger, finely chopped
½ teaspoon each turmeric and ground mace
¼ teaspoon each ground cloves, coriander and cinnamon
10 small chicken thighs, cut in half
2 teaspoons cornflour
2 cups chicken stock
2 apples, peeled, cored and cut in 1 cm (½ in) cubes
2 tablespoons toasted desiccated coconut to garnish

Heat oil in a large frying pan and cook onions until softened. Add green peppercorns and cook for 1 minute, then add ginger and spices and combine. Add chicken and brown on all sides. Blend cornflour with a little chicken stock, then combine with remaining stock. Add to frying pan and cook, stirring, until thickened. Reduce and simmer for 5 minutes. Add apples and continue to simmer for 10 minutes more or until chicken is tender. Garnish with toasted coconut and serve with fluffy boiled rice. Serves 6–8.

VEAL AND PEPPER LOAF

1–2 tablespoons black peppercorns
2 slices white bread, torn into pieces
2 cups parsley, stems removed
3 sticks celery, chopped
½ cup water
1 kg (2 lb) minced veal
1 egg, lightly beaten
1 teaspoon salt
6–8 rashers bacon, rind removed

Crush peppercorns in a mortar with a pestle or in a bowl with end of a rolling pin. Blend bread in a blender or food processor to make fine crumbs. Place parsley, celery and water in the container of the food processor or blender and blend until ingredients are chopped but not mushy. Place meat in a mixing bowl and add peppercorns, parsley mixture, egg, breadcrumbs and salt. Mix well with the fingers. Line a 6-cup loaf tin with bacon rashers, leaving ends hanging over edge of tin. Pack meat mixture into tin and fold overhanging bacon over meat. Cover with a lid or foil and bake in a preheated moderately slow oven (160°C/325°F) for 2 hours. Remove from oven, place a weight on top, and allow to cool, then chill. Serves 6–8.

PEPPER STEAK (STEAK AU POIVRE)

There are many versions of pepper steak. Here are two, one with crushed black peppercorns, the other with green peppercorns and a cream sauce.

PEPPER STEAK

4 pieces rump or fillet steak
1½ tablespoons coarsely cracked black peppercorns
olive oil
1 tablespoon butter
salt
dash Worcestershire sauce
lemon juice
2 tablespoons brandy
chopped fresh parsley and chives

Trim steaks of excess fat and any gristle. Press pepper into both sides of steaks and leave for 30 minutes. Cook in a little oil in heavy frying pan until done to your taste. Dot with butter, and season with salt, Worcestershire sauce and lemon juice. Warm brandy, ignite and pour over meat. Sprinkle with herbs and serve immediately, coating steaks with the sauce. Serves 4.

NOTE: Use a mortar and pestle to crack peppercorns or crack with mallet between 2 sheets of plastic.

VARIATION

Prepare pepper steaks as above. After flaming the steaks with brandy, add ½ cup cream, blending in well with the back of a spoon. Substitute 2 teaspoons green peppercorns for herbs.

PEPPER, SWEET

Sweet peppers (also called capsicums) are members of the same large Capsicum family as the hot chilli pepper. Their flesh has a sweet, vigorous flavour, which enlivens salads and many cooked dishes, and their square-ish hollow shape (the name ‘capsicum’ means box) makes them perfect for stuffing.

Peppers come in a mosaic of colours – brilliant red, yellow or green. Red peppers are fully ripe ones, and are much sweeter and milder than the unripe green ones; they are also twice as rich in vitamin C. When the lovely elongated yellow and orange ones appear on the market, make use of them for their season is all too short.

When buying peppers, avoid any that are wrinkled or have soft spots. They should be smooth, firm and gleaming. Store in the refrigerator crisper and use them within a week or so of purchase.

Basic preparation: The fleshy inner ribs, or core, and the seeds are discarded before using. Cut the pepper in half lengthways, or cut a lid from the top if you want to keep it whole, and pull out core and seeds with your fingers. Cut away the stem (unless you are retaining it for its decorative effect in a whole or halved stuffed pepper). Wash under cold running water.

To skin peppers: It is very often worth skinning peppers. It makes their flavour more delicate and changes their texture from crisp to richly soft. Spear whole pepper on a long-handled fork and turn it over a gas flame, or put it close to a very hot grill, turning until skin is charred all over. Put pepper into a paper bag for 10 minutes to steam, then rub skin off under cold water. Red or yellow peppers are easier to skin than green ones.

To blanch peppers: Some recipes suggest blanching peppers before stuffing, again to give more delicate flavour. After removing core and seeds, drop pepper into boiling water for a minute or two, pushing pepper down well under the water. Remove and refresh under cold running water. Drain well and proceed with recipe.

Ways to use peppers:

• A simple way to cook peppers is to cut them into strips and fry in a little oil, perhaps flavoured with garlic. Season with salt and pepper and serve with grills or roasted meat.

• Halved and drizzled with oil, peppers may be grilled with meat.

• Sliced into rings, cut into strips or diced they are used raw in many salads. Use in stews, soups or casseroles.

• Strips of raw pepper may be part of a dish of crudités (see Crudités) to use with a dipping sauce.

CHILLED PEPPER SALAD

Arrange this salad in a shallow dish and serve well chilled.

4 large ripe tomatoes, peeled and thickly sliced
4 peppers (any colour), skinned, cored, seeded and cut into strips
1 × 50 g can flat anchovy fillets
½ cup Vinaigrette Dressing
freshly ground black pepper
6–8 black olives, halved and stoned
3 hard-boiled eggs, quartered
chopped parsley or fine strips fresh basil to garnish

Arrange tomato slices in a shallow dish. Place peppers on top of tomatoes. Drain anchovies; mix their oil with vinaigrette and drizzle this mixture over salad. Season with black pepper. Slit anchovy fillets in half lengthways and arrange lattice-fashion on salad. Put an olive half into each square. Chill well. At serving time, arrange eggs round edge and scatter salad with parsley or basil. Serves 6.

FETTUCINE AND PEPPER SALAD

250 g (8 oz) fettucine (flat noodles)
2 red or green peppers, skinned, cored, seeded and cut into strips
125 g (4 oz) Gruyère cheese, diced
6–8 black olives
¼ cup Mustard Vinaigrette Dressing
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Cook fettucine and drain. Mix peppers, cheese and olives in a salad bowl. Mix fettucine with vinaigrette, add to other ingredients and toss lightly. Season and chill for 1 hour before serving. Serves 4.

BEEF AND PEPPERS IN BLACK BEAN SAUCE

Hoisin sauce and black beans are available at Asian food stores.

500 g (1 lb) lean fillet or rump steak
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon hoisin sauce (optional)
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1½ tablespoons cornflour
5 tablespoons vegetable oil
1¼ teaspoons sugar
2 tablespoons Chinese salted black beans
1 medium red pepper, cored and seeded
1 medium green pepper, cored and seeded
1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger
3 tablespoons dry sherry

Slice beef thinly across the grain and cut into finger-length strips. Mix soy sauce, hoisin sauce, if using, tomato paste, cornflour, 1 tablespoon oil and sugar. Add beef, turn to coat the strips all over, and leave for 15 minutes. Meanwhile, soak beans in cold water for 15 minutes. Cut peppers into 4 cm (1½ in) squares. Heat remaining oil in a frying pan or wok over high heat. When it begins to give off a haze, add ginger and drained black beans and stir-fry 30 seconds. Add beef and stir-fry for 2 minutes. Add peppers, sprinkle with sherry and stir-fry for 1 minute more. Serve at once. Serves 4–6.

PEPPERS, ONIONS AND CORN

An excellent vegetable mixture to serve with grills, sausages, sautéed liver or bacon.

90 g (3 oz) butter
3 medium onions, thickly sliced
2 red or green peppers, cored, seeded and cut into strips
1 cup cooked fresh, or drained canned, corn kernels
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Heat butter and cook onions gently until soft. Add peppers to pan and cook, stirring, on medium heat for 5 minutes. Stir in corn, heat through and season with salt and pepper. Serves 4–6.

STEWED PEPPERS (PAPRICHE STUFATE)

One of the many Italian dishes starring peppers. Serve hot with grilled chops or sausages, or at room temperature as part of an antipasto tray.

½ cup olive oil
1 clove garlic, flattened with a heavy knife
6 green or yellow peppers, cored, seeded and cut into strips
4 large, ripe tomatoes, peeled and chopped
salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley to garnish

Heat oil in a frying pan and fry garlic gently until golden-brown, then discard garlic. Add pepper strips and cook gently for 5 minutes. Cover with tomatoes and season with salt and pepper. Continue cooking until tomatoes are reduced to a thick sauce. Serve hot or cold, garnished with parsley. Serves 4.

PEPPERS WITH BACON

A savoury dish which needs no other accompaniment than crusty bread.

2 tablespoons olive oil
250 g (8 oz) lean rashers bacon, rind removed, cut into 4 cm (1½ in) pieces
1 onion, finely sliced
2 tablespoons water
4 large, ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped
4 green or yellow peppers, skinned, cored, seeded and cut into strips
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Heat oil in a frying pan over low heat and fry bacon gently until lightly browned. Add onion and water and cook until water evaporates and onion is soft and golden. Add tomatoes and cook over medium heat until soft. Add peppers, salt and pepper and cook until peppers are soft. Serve very hot. Serves 4.

PEPPERS STUFFED WITH PIPÉRADE

A marvellous cold dish, with a delicious scrambled egg mixture. Serve it for lunch, or as a light supper dish.

2 red peppers, halved, cored and seeded
3 tablespoons olive oil
125 g (4 oz) cooked ham or bacon, chopped
1 large onion, chopped
½ cup chopped green pepper
1 tomato, peeled, seeded and chopped
salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ cup fresh breadcrumbs
¼ cup cream
3 eggs, beaten
chopped parsley

Blanch red peppers for a few minutes in boiling water, then drain and cool. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a heavy frying pan and lightly brown ham or bacon. Add onion and sauté until soft, adding chopped green pepper halfway through cooking. Stir in tomato and season with salt and pepper. Cover and cook over a low heat for 5 minutes. Allow to cool. Soak breadcrumbs in cream in a small bowl. Add eggs. Heat remaining oil in a heavy frying pan, add the egg mixture and scramble until soft and creamy. Put eggs into a dish and cool. Fold together tomato mixture and scrambled egg and spoon carefully into prepared red pepper shells. Sprinkle tops liberally with chopped parsley before serving. Serves 4.

STUFFED PEPPERS

4 large red or green peppers
1½ cups Fresh Tomato Sauce

Stuffing

45 g (1½ oz) butter
1 onion, finely chopped
½ cup short-grain rice
60 g (2 oz) mushrooms, chopped
1½ cups chicken stock
125 g (4 oz) cooked ham, veal or chicken, finely chopped
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Cut tops off peppers and scoop out seeds. Blanch in boiling water for 2–3 minutes. Pat dry with paper towels and set aside.

To make stuffing, melt 30 g (1 oz) butter in a saucepan and fry onion until softened. Add rice, stir over medium heat for 1–2 minutes, then add mushrooms. Pour stock over, bring to the boil, cover and simmer for 20 minutes or until rice is tender and stock absorbed. Stir in remaining butter and cooked ham, veal or chicken and season with salt and pepper. Put stuffing into peppers and pack them closely together in an ovenproof casserole. Heat tomato sauce and pour over and around peppers. Cover dish with greased foil and cook in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for 25–30 minutes or until peppers are tender. Serves 4.

TOMATO AND PEPPER SALAD

2 green peppers, cored, seeded and cut into strips
4 firm tomatoes, sliced
½ Spanish onion, finely chopped
6 shallots, finely chopped
1 bunch fresh coriander or flat-leaved Italian parsley
salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 tablespoons olive oil
1–2 tablespoons wine vinegar

Put peppers in a serving bowl with tomatoes, onion and coriander or parsley. Season with salt and pepper, pour on oil and vinegar and toss well. Increase amount of oil and vinegar if you wish. Serve as first course with bread (Lebanese pita or crusty French) to mop up the juices. Serves 4.

STUFFED PEPPERS PIEDMONT-STYLE

3 cloves garlic, chopped
2 large tomatoes, peeled, seeded and diced
1 cup fresh breadcrumbs
3 green or red peppers, skinned, cored, seeded and quartered lengthways
12 anchovy fillets
30 g (1 oz) butter
¼ cup olive oil
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Combine garlic, tomatoes and breadcrumbs and divide among the 12 pepper boat shapes. Place an anchovy fillet on top of each, then a small piece of butter. Put in a greased baking dish. Drizzle oil over and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for 15–20 minutes; the peppers should not become too soft. Serve cold. Serves 4–6 as part of an antipasto tray and serves 4 as a lunch dish.

PEPERONATA (PEPPERS WITH TOMATOES AND ONIONS)

This dish may be served cold as antipasto or hot as an accompaniment to roast or grilled chicken, lamb or pork.

4 tablespoons olive oil
3–4 medium onions, chopped
2 cloves garlic, sliced
2 bay leaves
6 large peppers (any colour or mixed), cored, seeded and cut into thick strips
500 g (1 lb) tomatoes, peeled and quartered
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Heat oil in a frying pan and fry onions, garlic and bay leaves for about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Stir in peppers, cover pan and cook gently for about 10 minutes. Add tomatoes, salt and pepper and cook, uncovered and stirring frequently, for about 30 minutes or until most of the liquid has evaporated and mixture is fairly thick. Remove bay leaves, season again if necessary and serve cold or hot. Serves 4–6.

TABOULEH-STUFFED PEPPERS

1 cup burghul (cracked wheat)
8 small green peppers
cup olive oil
½ cup lemon juice
¼ cup chopped fresh mint
¼ cup chopped parsley
2 teaspoons salt
freshly ground black pepper
2 cups alfalfa sprouts
1 cup peeled, seeded and chopped cucumber
2 tomatoes, chopped
½ cup chopped shallots

Soak burghul in water overnight in a glass or ceramic bowl. Drain and squeeze out as much water as possible, then spread out on a tea-towel to dry. Cook whole peppers in boiling salted water for 5 minutes. Drain and refresh under cold running water. Cut off tops, discard seeds and cores and let peppers drain. Combine oil, lemon juice, herbs, salt and pepper in a large bowl. Add burghul, then rest of ingredients. Stuff peppers with mixture, mounding it high, and arrange peppers on a serving dish. Serves 8.

PEPPERMINT

One of the many varieties of mint, and one of the most useful herbs in industry. Its leaves yield, on distillation, peppermint oil, which flavours confectionery, ice cream, toothpaste, chewing gum, perfumes, liqueurs and pharmaceutical preparations. Peppermint oil and peppermint tea have traditionally been used in medicine for the relief of cramps, headaches, indigestion and the common cold, among other ailments.

Chocolate and peppermint seem to have a particular affinity – peppermint-flavoured chocolate, or chocolate with a peppermint cream filling, is a delicious accompaniment to after-dinner coffee. Small bottles of peppermint essence are available for flavouring cakes, biscuits and confectionery.

PEPPERMINT STICKS

125 g (4 oz) butter, melted
½ cup sugar
1 cup desiccated coconut
1 cup flour, sifted
1 tablespoon cocoa powder
½ teaspoon peppermint essence
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 cup cornflakes, lightly crushed

Peppermint butter icing

90 g (3 oz) butter
cup icing sugar, sifted
peppermint essence
30 g (1 oz) dark chocolate, melted with 15 g (½ oz) butter to decorate

Cream butter with sugar, then beat in coconut, flour, cocoa powder, peppermint essence and baking powder. Mix well. Stir in cornflakes. Press into a 30 × 25 cm (12 × 10 in) Swiss roll tin; mixture should be nearly 1 cm (½ in) thick. Bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for about 20 minutes. Cool.

To make icing, cream butter until light, then gradually beat in icing sugar. Flavour to taste with peppermint essence. When cake is cold spread roughly with icing and drizzle over melted chocolate mixture. Cut into fingers to serve. Makes 50 biscuits 6 × 2.5 cm (2½ × 1 in).

DOUBLE DELIGHT CAKE

Chocolate frosting

185 g (6 oz) cream cheese
125 g (4 oz) butter
½ teaspoon vanilla essence
½ teaspoon peppermint essence
6 cups icing sugar, sifted
¼ cup hot water
125 g (4 oz) dark cooking chocolate, melted

Cake

60 g (2 oz) butter
3 eggs
2¼ cups flour
1½ teaspoons bicarbonate of soda
1 teaspoon salt
¾ cup milk

To make chocolate frosting, beat together cheese, butter and essences, blending well. Beat in half icing sugar, then add remaining icing sugar alternately with hot water. Blend in melted chocolate and mix until smooth.

To make cake, blend butter with 2 cups of the chocolate frosting. Add eggs, one at a time, and beat for 1 minute. Sift flour, soda and salt, and stir into the creamed mixture alternately with milk, beginning and ending with dry ingredients. Spoon into 2 greased and lightly floured 20 cm (8 in) round sandwich tins. Bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/ 350°F) for 30–40 minutes. Turn out onto wire rack and cool. Sandwich cake together with a little of the remaining frosting or jam. Decorate cake by spreading rest of frosting over top and sides.

PERSIMMON

This fruit is a rare treat, because when properly ripe, it is very fragile and soft and needs delicate handling. A ripe persimmon is not unlike a tomato, slightly more orange than red, and almost translucent. The season for persimmons is late autumn to early winter.

Another variety of persimmon, called Sharon fruit and grown in Israel, is sometimes available. This has an edible skin, no pips and a very sweet flesh; it can be eaten while still firm unlike the ordinary persimmon, which tastes very astringent if not fully ripe and soft.

The persimmon tree originated in Japan, where it is called kaki, but it has been cultivated in Mediterranean areas for many centuries. The fruit is most often eaten raw but may be stewed or made into jam.

To eat persimmon:With a small sharp knife, cut around the central stalk of the persimmon and remove. Scoop out flesh with a small teaspoon. The jelly-like flesh around the seeds is edible, but the seeds are not.

PESTO

See Pasta Sauces.

PESTO ALLA GENOVESE (BASIL, CHEESE AND PINE NUT SAUCE)

This pungent sauce, with its main ingredient, basil, is used to flavour pasta dishes by tossing the hot pasta with pesto to taste and enough butter to coat the strands. A little of the sauce is excellent, too, in soups, as well as spooned over poached fish or boiled or baked potatoes. It can be stored, covered with a layer of oil, in a jar in the refrigerator, where it will keep for months. For recipe.

PETITS FOURS

The French name ‘petits fours’ is used to describe a variety of small cakes and biscuits, often highly decorated, which are served after dessert and with coffee. They must be very small and elegant, just the size of one mouthful.

The term, which translates as ‘little ovens’, is thought to have originated because these cakes were baked in a slower oven than big cakes. Such a difference is no longer relevant; the essentials for petits fours are that they be very small and very attractive.

Petits fours may simply be small-scale versions of the standard range of patisserie, such as tiny cream puffs or éclairs, or miniscule fruit tarts. Or they may be based on Almond Paste, or on the Genoise Cake cut into attractive shapes, iced and decorated. For serving, tiny paper patty cases are available.

PHEASANT

One of the most popular of game birds, often raised commercially these days. It is a smallish and white-fleshed bird; its flavour can be rather delicate and not very ‘gamey’, especially if the bird did not grow up in the wild and fatten among grape vines.

An average pheasant weighs about 1 kg (2 lb) and will serve 3–4 persons. For ease of carving, and especially if the bird is stuffed, it is often semi-boned – that is, the drumsticks and wings are left intact, but thigh bones and main carcase bones are removed. Start from the middle of the back and gradually separate flesh from bone around to breast.

ROAST STUFFED PHEASANT

1 × 1 kg (2 lb) pheasant
salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 chicken livers
60 g (2 oz) butter
½ cup cooked rice
1 tablespoon juniper berries
1 tablespoon slivered almonds
2 tablespoons strong pheasant or chicken stock
1 small onion, finely chopped and softened in butter
port or Madeira

Season pheasant lightly with salt and pepper. Lightly sauté chicken livers in half of the butter. Chop roughly, then mix with rice, juniper berries, almonds, stock and onion. Season with salt and pepper. Spoon stuffing into bird and truss. Rub remaining butter over pheasant and place, breast down, in roasting tin. Pour a little port or Madeira into the tin. Roast in a preheated hot oven (200°C/400°F), basting bird occasionally with pan juices. After 45 minutes, test with skewer through thigh; pheasant is cooked when juices that run out are still faintly pink. If necessary, leave in turned-off oven for 5–10 minutes longer. Serve with Cumberland Sauce, if desired; alternatively, you can make a sauce with pan juices and pheasant stock. Serves 3–4.

ROAST PHEASANT

1 × 1 kg (2 lb) pheasant
2 rashers bacon, rind removed
60 g (2 oz) butter, melted
½ cup sherry
1 tablespoon redcurrant jelly
juice ½ lemon
flour

Truss pheasant, and tie bacon around bird. Rub all over with butter. Roast in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for 40 minutes. Meanwhile, combine butter, sherry, jelly and lemon juice. Remove bacon from pheasant. Dredge breast lightly with flour and pour liquid over. Continue roasting for a further 15 minutes, basting 2–3 times with pan liquid. Test with skewer through thigh; pheasant is cooked when juices that run out are still faintly pink. Serve with a sauce made from the pan liquid. Serves 3–4.

PICKLES

The word ‘pickles’ usually describes coarsely chopped fruits and vegetables which are preserved in brine or vinegar. Home-made pickles add flavour and variety to all sorts of foods and, with chutneys, belong to the tradition of the English kitchen; the art of making them should not be allowed to die out.

They are, in a way, a legacy from the days of the British Raj in India, when they were a very welcome addition to English food, especially to simple cold meats. The British welcomed these exotic spicy products with open arms, and there was hardly a cookery book of the nineteenth century which didn’t include recipes for relishes, pickles, chutneys and sauces. At the same time, silver cruet sets filled with glass sauce bottles were introduced and became a stand utensil on every table.

There is no special equipment needed for making pickles, but because of their acidity, be sure to use stoneware, pottery, glass or plastic bowls for brining. Saucepans used for pickling should be unchipped enamel or stainless steel. Use clean, wooden spoons for stirring.

Store pickles in sterilised glass jars, preferably with glass lids. Plastic-plated metal lids can be used but never use metal ones. Glass coffee jars with plastic seals are also good.

For sterlising jars and storing preserves see Jams.

A special mixture of spices is prepared as pickling spice, containing many of the necessary spices.

You can chop the vegetables for relishes coarsely or finely, according to your preference. Use a food processor, if you have one, to save time and effort.

See also Chutney.

CRISP BREAD-AND-BUTTER PICKLES

¼ cup coarse salt
½ cup water
10 cups very finely sliced cucumber
4 medium onions, sliced into rings
1 large red or green pepper cored, seeded and sliced
1¼ cups sugar
1¼ cups vinegar
½ tablespoon mustard seeds
¼ teaspoon turmeric
¼ teaspoon whole cloves

Dissolve salt in water and pour over mixed sliced vegetables. Put some ice cubes on top of cucumbers. Use about 3 cups ice; it is the ice and salt that give an almost brittle, crisp pickle. Let stand for 3 hours, weighted with a plate. Drain. Combine sugar, vinegar and spices and bring to the boil. Add vegetables and return to just below boiling point. Do not boil. Pack into sterilised jars, fill to overflowing, and seal. Makes 10 cups.

ZUCCHINI PICKLES

1 kg (2 lb) small zucchini, finely sliced
2 medium onions, finely sliced
¼ cup salt
2 cups white vinegar
1 cup sugar
1 teaspoon celery seeds
1 teaspoon mustard seeds
1 teaspoon turmeric
½ teaspoon dry mustard

Place zucchini and onion slices in a crock or bowl. Cover with water and add salt. Let stand for 1 hour, then drain. Mix remaining ingredients in a saucepan and bring to the boil. Pour over zucchini and onion. Let stand for 1 hour. Put in pan, bring to the boil and cook for 3 minutes. Pack into hot sterilised jars and seal. Makes 6 cups.

CAULIFLOWER PICKLES

1 medium head cauliflower, broken into florets
1 cup tiny white onions, peeled
cup salt
5 cups white vinegar
¾ cup sugar
1 teaspoon turmeric
1 tablespoon mustard seeds
½ tablespoon celery seeds
1 red chilli

Mix vegetables with salt and ice cubes, and cover with more ice cubes. Let stand for 3 hours. Drain. Mix remaining ingredients in a large saucepan and bring to the boil, stirring to dissolve sugar. Add cauliflower and onions. Cook for 10 minutes or until tender but not soft. Pack vegetables into hot sterilised jars. Reheat liquid to boiling. Pour over vegetables and seal. Makes 5–6 cups.

CHOW-CHOW

A lovely, golden relish with a mustardy tang – good with pickled meats.

500 g (1 lb) green tomatoes, chopped
3 small cucumbers, chopped
1 red or green pepper, cored, seeded and chopped
½ small cauliflower, chopped
1 bunch celery, chopped
500 g (1 lb) small white onions, peeled
250 g (8 oz) green beans, cut into short lengths
4 cups boiling water
¼ cup salt
2 cups cider vinegar
1 cup sugar
2 tablespoons celery seeds
2 tablespoons dry mustard
2 tablespoons turmeric
½ tablespoon whole allspice
½ tablespoon freshly ground black pepper
½ tablespoon ground cloves

Combine vegetables in a large bowl. Cover with boiling water, add salt and let stand for 1 hour. Drain. Rinse well in cold water and drain again. Mix remaining ingredients in a large saucepan and bring to the boil. Add vegetables and cook until tender, stirring frequently. Spoon vegetables into hot, sterilised jars. Fill with cooking liquid and seal. Makes 10 cups.

DILL CUCUMBER PICKLES

25 cucumbers, 8–10 cm (3–4 in) long
2 cups cider vinegar
cup salt
5 cups water
sprigs fresh dill
cloves garlic, peeled

Put cucumbers in a large bowl, cover with cold water and let stand overnight. Drain and pack into hot, sterilised jars. Combine vinegar, salt and water in a saucepan and bring to the boil. Pour over the cucumbers. Add 1–2 sprigs of dill and a clove garlic to each jar and seal. Makes about 4 jars.

MUSTARD PICKLES (PICCALILLI)

750 g (1½ lb) small cucumbers, sliced
250 g (8 oz) green tomatoes, diced
500 g (1 lb) small white onions, peeled
3 green peppers, cored, seeded and diced
½ cauliflower, cut into small pieces
¼ cup salt
5 cups cold water
½ cup flour
3 tablespoons dry mustard
1 tablespoon turmeric
4 cups cider vinegar
1 cup sugar

Put vegetables in a large bowl. Mix salt with water, pour over vegetables, cover and let stand for 8 hours or overnight. Drain and rinse under cold running water. Put vegetables in a large saucepan, cover them with fresh cold water and bring to the boil. Drain in a colander once again. Put flour, mustard and turmeric in the pan. Stir in enough vinegar to make smooth paste, then gradually add remaining vinegar and sugar, stirring well. Bring to the boil, stirring constantly, and cook until thick and smooth. Add vegetables and cook, stirring, until heated through. Spoon into hot, sterilised jars, filling completely, and seal. Makes about 10 cups.

CURRIED EGGPLANT PICKLE

8 dried red chillies
5 teaspoons chopped garlic
4 teaspoons chopped fresh ginger
2 tablespoons black mustard seeds
2½ teaspoons turmeric
1¾ cups oil
1.5 kg (3 lb) eggplants, cubed
3 teaspoons salt
½ cup firmly packed brown sugar
¾ cup vinegar
2 teaspoons Garam Masala

Soak chillies in hot water for 5 minutes. Drain, reserving water. Place chillies, garlic, ginger, mustard seeds and some of the water in which the chillies soaked in a blender or food processor and blend on high speed until puréed. Combine with turmeric. Heat oil and fry blended mixture for a few minutes, then add eggplant cubes. Cover and cook on low heat until eggplant is soft, stirring now and then. Add salt, sugar and vinegar and simmer until thick, stirring frequently to prevent burning. Stir in garam masala. Bottle in sterilised jars and seal. Store covered. Makes about 4 cups.

RED OR GREEN PEPPER RELISH

12 red or green peppers, or a combination, cored, seeded and chopped
6 onions, chopped
6 sticks celery, chopped
2 cups cider vinegar
1 cup sugar
1 tablespoon salt
½ tablespoon mustard or celery seeds

Cover vegetables with boiling water, then drain. Put them in a large saucepan, cover with cold water, bring to the boil and drain again. Mix vinegar, sugar, salt and mustard or celery seeds in pan and bring to the boil. Add vegetables and simmer for about 10 minutes. Adjust seasoning if necessary. Spoon vegetables into hot, sterilised jars. Fill to overflowing with cooking liquid and seal. Makes 7 cups.

FRESH DILL PICKLES (KOSHER-STYLE)

3 cups vinegar
3 cups water
6 tablespoons salt
fresh or dried dill
cloves garlic, sliced
mustard seeds
30–36 cucumbers, 8–10 cm (3–4 in) long

Mix a brine of the vinegar, water and salt. Bring to the boil. Put a generous layer of dill, ½ –1 clove garlic and 1½ teaspoons mustard seeds in each sterilised jar. Pack cucumbers tightly in jars. When half filled with cucumbers, add another layer of dill and complete packing. Fill jars with boiling brine, leaving 1 cm (½ in) in headspace. Put caps on jars, screwing bands tight. Gently simmer for 5 minutes in boiling water bath. Pickles will shrivel somewhat after processing, but they will later plump in sealed jar. Makes 5–6 × 2½ -cup jars.

MIXED PICKLES

A sweet and spicy pickle, good with cold meats and toasted cheese.

6 green tomatoes, chopped
2 green peppers, cored, seeded and chopped
1 red pepper, cored, seeded and chopped
3 onions, chopped
½ small cabbage, chopped
2 tablespoons salt
½ tablespoon whole cloves
1 cinnamon stick
½ tablespoon whole allspice
1½ cups firmly packed brown sugar
1 teaspoon celery seeds
1 tablespoon mustard seeds
1 cup cider vinegar

Sprinkle vegetables with salt, cover and let stand overnight. Cover with cold water, then drain. Tie cloves, cinnamon and allspice in a muslin bag and place with remaining ingredients in a large saucepan. Add vegetables and bring to the boil. Reduce heat and simmer for about 15 minutes. Spoon vegetables into hot, sterilised jars. Remove bag of spices from cooking liquid, fill jars to overflowing with cooking liquid and seal. Makes 8 cups.

CELERY RELISH

Sweet and crunchy.

½ cup sugar
2 teaspoons salt
½ teaspoon dry mustard
¼ teaspoon ground cloves
¼ teaspoon ground allspice
¼ teaspoon cinnamon
¼ teaspoon celery seeds
1–1½ cups cider vinegar
2 bunches celery, chopped
6 large tomatoes, chopped
1 red pepper, cored, seeded and chopped

Mix all ingredients well in a large saucepan. Bring to the boil, then reduce heat and simmer for about 1 hour or until thick. Spoon vegetables into hot, sterilised jars. Fill to overflowing with cooking liquid, and seal. Makes 8 cups.

WATERMELON PICKLES

rind from 1 large watermelon
salt
1 lemon, finely sliced

Pickling syrup

10 cups cider vinegar
2 cups water
9 cups sugar
2 tablespoons whole cloves
2 tablespoons whole allspice
1 piece fresh ginger
3 tablespoons cracked cinnamon stick

Trim off green skin and pink flesh from watermelon rind. Cut rind into squares or small oblong pieces. Measure the rind (there should be 20 cups/5 litres). Cover with cold salted water (¼ cup salt to 10 cups water) and let stand overnight. Drain. Place rind in a large saucepan, cover with fresh cold water and bring to the boil. Simmer until tender.

To make picking syrup, place vinegar, water and sugar in a large saucepan. Tie spices in a cheesecloth bag and add to pan. Bring to the boil and boil rapidly for 5 minutes. Drain watermelon rind and add to the pickling syrup with lemon. Bring back to the boil and simmer for 1 hour or until clear. Remove spice bag. Pack pickle in hot, sterilised jars and seal. Makes about 10 cups.

PIES

Although there are exceptions, a pie usually consists of a filling topped with a crust; it may or may not have a bottom crust as well. Fillings range from hearty meats to delicate fruits, and the crust can be made from various kinds of pastry, crumbs, scone dough, meringue or even mashed potato. What they all have in common is that a pie is invariably acclaimed as a treat and a sign of a caring cook.

ONE-CRUST PIES

To make a pie with a top pastry crust only, prepare filling and, if it is cooked, cool it completely. Place in a pie dish or tart plate just large enough to hold it, mounding it up in the centre to support the crust. If filling is not firm enough to mound, provide support by placing a pie funnel or an upturned egg cup in the centre of the dish before putting in filling.

Roll out pastry 5 mm (¼ in ) thick, and cut a shape about 4 cm (1½ in) larger all round than top of dish. Cut a strip from the outside edge of this piece, slightly wider than rim of dish. Dampen rim with water and press pastry strip onto it, cutting ends to fit and dampening them to join. Moisten top of pastry strip.

Lift remaining pastry on a lightly floured rolling pin and lay it loosely over dish. Press pastry lid firmly onto dampened strip. Trim off overhang with a sharp knife, holding up the dish on one hand and cutting with the other, slanting the knife slightly under the rim, as you turn the dish round.

If using flaky pastry:With the back of a finger, press round the pastry lid edge so that it is pushed out slightly beyond the rim of the dish. At the same time, with a knife held horizontally, lightly tap the cut edges of pastry all round. This is called ‘knocking up’ the pastry and will give a flaky finish to the edge.

Flute the crust by drawing the back of a knife across the edge at 1 cm (½ in) intervals, bringing the knife up and in, while with your other thumb you press the pastry down just in front of the knife. Pull the pastry with the knife; do not cut it. Cut a few small slits in pastry and pierce through centre into pie funnel, if using. Glaze (avoiding cut edges) and bake as directed in recipe.

If using short pastry: Press edge of pastry out so that it is pushed slightly beyond the rim of the dish. Flute edge with your fingers or mark by pressing all round with the tines of a fork. Cut a few small slits in the pastry and pierce through centre into pie funnel, if using. Glaze and bake as directed in recipe.

TWO-CRUST PIES

A two-crust pie can be made with both top and bottom crusts of short or flaky pastry, or it can be made with short pastry underneath and flaky pastry on top.

Divide pastry into two portions, one a little larger than the other. Roll out larger portion about 3 mm ( in) thick, and cut a shape which will line the dish with about 2 cm (¾ in) overhang all round. Lift pastry on a lightly floured rolling pin and fit it into the dish, easing it in loosely without stretching it. Use fingertips or a small ball of pastry, dipped in flour, to press crust against the dish so that no air is trapped between.

If filling is very juicy, brush bottom and sides of crust with lightly beaten egg, egg white or, for a sweet pie, melted jam, and allow it to dry for a few minutes. Place filling in dish as described under One-crust Pies (above).

Roll other portion of pastry about 5 mm (¼ in) thick to a shape about 2.5 cm (1 in) larger all round than top of dish. Moisten rim of bottom crust with water. Lift top crust onto a lightly floured rolling pin and lay it loosely over the dish. Press top and bottom crusts firmly together. Trim off overhang with a sharp knife, as for One-crust Pies.

With the back of a finger, press round the pastry lid edge, so that it is pushed out slightly beyond the rim of the dish. Then ‘knock up’ the edges and flute or mark as described under One-crust Pies. Cut a few small slits in pastry and pierce through centre. Glaze and bake as directed in recipe.

To decorate a pie: Pastry-covered pies may be decorated with flowers, leaves, tassels or tiny fruits made from the pastry trimmings. Secure to the crust with beaten egg or egg white, and glaze. Cover decorations with foil if they are browning too much before pie is ready.

Pastry fruits: Shape several tiny pastry balls and join to make a cluster of berries; or shape small apples, pears, etc. Poke holes in the tops with a fine skewer and insert pastry stems or leaves.

Pastry leaves: Cut pastry into strips, cut diagonally across into diamonds and trim to leaf shapes. Make veins with the blunt edge of a knife and arrange on pie.

Pastry rose: Cut 3 pastry strips about 1 × 5 cm (½ × 2 in). Roll one strip into a cylinder, wrap a second strip loosely round it and pinch base in to open out top; then wrap the third strip round from the opposite side and pinch base in again.

Pastry tassel: Cut a pastry strip about 8 × 2.5 cm (3 × 1 in). Cut this strip across like a fringe to about two-thirds of its width, then roll up lengthways, pinching the base together. Place in centre of pie and open out the fringe.

Lattice-top pies: A lattice top is a decorative finish to a pie with an attractive filling such as fruit. Roll out dough and cut strips 1–2 cm (½ –¾ in) wide. Arrange the strips on the filling in crisscross rows.

Or weave strips as follows: lay half the strips across the dish, about 2 cm (¾ in) apart. Fold back every second strip halfway. Place a strip at right angles across the unfolded strips. Unfold the doubled strips and fold back the alternate ones. Lay another cross strip about 2 cm (¾ in) from the first. Continue, working towards the edge, then repeat the process, starting from the other side of the centre line. Strips should be loosely arranged, without stretching.

When the whole pie is latticed, dampen the ends of the strips and press them to the bottom crust edge or to the edge of the dish. Fold edge of bottom crust over ends of strips, or, for a one-crust pie, cover ends with a strip of pastry round the dampened rim of the dish.

AUSTRALIAN MEAT PIES

Meat pies are an Australian favourite and are sold in cake and sandwich shops from one end of the land to the other. The classic version is simple – an individual, 2-crust pie full of chopped beef in a rich gravy.

500 g (1 lb) chuck or blade steak
2 tablespoons flour
1 teaspoon salt
freshly ground black pepper
½ cup water
1 × 375 g (12 oz) packet frozen puff pastry, thawed
beaten egg to glaze

Trim gristle and fat from steak and cut into thin shreds, then chop finely. Dust with flour, salt and pepper and place in a pudding basin or other heatproof bowl with water. Cover with foil and tie in place with string, or use a snap-on lid. Place in a saucepan with enough boiling water to come halfway up sides of bowl, and simmer for 2 hours or until meat is very tender. Replace water as necessary to maintain level. Allow to cool completely. Roll out pastry dough thinly and cut three-quarters of it into round, oblong or square shapes to fit individual pie tins. Line tins with dough, and fill about three-quarters full with meat filling. Cut lids from remaining dough, dampen edges and press into place. Cut a vent in top of each pie for steam to escape. Chill for 15 minutes, then brush with beaten egg. Bake in preheated hot oven (200°C/400°F) for 25 minutes or until pastry is puffed and golden. Serve with Tomato Sauce. Makes 4–6 small pies.

VARIATION

POTATO PIES: Follow recipe for Australian Meat Pies using three-quarters of a packet of pastry, but instead of pastry lids, cover pies with creamy mashed potato made from 4 medium potatoes, ¼ cup boiling milk and 30 g (1 oz) butter. Season well with salt and pepper, spread over filling and roughen surface with a fork. Bake as for meat pies, covering pies loosely with foil if potato is browning too much.

BEEF AND BURGUNDY PIE

A restaurant favourite, this rich beef filling can be made into one large pie or individual ones, and topped with flaky pastry or a tender scone crust.

2 tablespoons oil
30 g (1 oz) butter
60 g (2 oz) pickled (salt) pork, diced
12 button onions, peeled
250 g (8 oz) button mushrooms
1 kg (2 lb) chuck steak or beef shin, cubed
3 tablespoons seasoned flour
1 large onion, chopped
1 teaspoon chopped fresh marjoram, or ¼ teaspoon dried
2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme, or
½ teaspoon dried
1 cup burgundy or other red wine
1 cup beef stock
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 quantity Rough Puff or Flaky Pastry, or 1 quantity Scone Dough
beaten egg or milk to glaze

Heat oil and butter in a large, heavy saucepan or flameproof casserole. Dry pickled pork well and fry until crisp and golden. Remove pork with a slotted spoon and reserve. Brown first button onions, then mushrooms, in fat in pan removing each when done. Toss beef with seasoned flour and brown, a few pieces at a time. Add chopped onion and cook gently until soft, then return pork and beef to the saucepan and add herbs, wine and stock. Cover and simmer very gently on top of stove, or place in a preheated slow oven (150°C/300°F). Cook for about 1½ –2½ hours or until beef is tender. Add button onions and cook for a further 15 minutes, then add mushrooms and cook for 10 minutes more. Taste and adjust seasoning. Cool completely.

For pie with pastry crust, spoon beef into a pie dish just large enough to hold it, mounded slightly, or into 6 individual pie dishes. Roll out pastry dough and cover dish or dishes. Decorate with roses or tassels and leaves made from pastry trimmings. Chill for 20 minutes. Cut a few small slits in crust and glaze with beaten egg. Bake in a preheated very hot oven (230°C/450°F) for about 10 minutes or until pastry is well risen and beginning to colour, then reduce heat to moderate (180°C/350°F) and continue baking until pastry is golden-brown and filling heated through: 25–35 minutes more for a large pie, 15–20 minutes for individual pies. Cover loosely with foil if pastry is browning too much.

For pie with scone crust, spoon filling into pie dish, casserole or 6 individual ramekins, to come 1 cm (½ in) below rim. For a large pie, pat out scone dough to 1 cm (½ in) thick and cut into 12 scones. Place scones close together on top of filling. For small pies, pat out dough, cut 6 rounds to fit ramekins and place on filling. Brush tops with milk. Bake in a preheated very hot oven (230°C/450°F) for 8–10 minutes or until scone crust is well risen and golden, then reduce heat to moderate (180°C/350°F), cover loosely with foil and continue baking until filling is heated through, for 20–30 minutes more. Serves 6.

FISHERMAN’S PIE

500 g (1 lb) white fish fillets
60 g (2 oz) butter
1 tablespoon lemon juice
2 cups milk
1 onion, finely chopped
1 bouquet garni
pinch nutmeg
3 tablespoons flour
¼ cup cream
cup grated Cheddar cheese
large pinch dry mustard
salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
½ cup cooked peas
3 hard-boiled eggs, quartered
1 quantity Rough Puff or Flaky Pastry, or 1 × 375 g (12 oz) packet frozen puff pastry, thawed
beaten egg to glaze

Place fish in an ovenproof dish, dot with half the butter and drizzle lemon juice over. Cover with foil and cook in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/ 350°F) for 20 minutes. Remove any skin or bones and flake fish, reserving juices. Heat milk in a saucepan with onion, bouquet garni and nutmeg until bubbles form round edge. Remove from heat and stand for 5 minutes, then remove bouquet garni. Melt remaining butter in a heavy saucepan, stir in flour and cook on low heat for 1 minute. Remove from heat, cool a little and add milk, stirring until smoothly blended. Return to medium heat and stir until boiling. Remove from heat, stir in cream, cheese and mustard and season with salt and pepper. Fold fish and its juices, parsley, peas and eggs into sauce. Cool completely, then spoon into pie dish just large enough to hold it. Cover with pastry dough and chill for 20 minutes. Cut a few small slits in top and brush with beaten egg. Bake in a preheated very hot oven (230°C/450°F) for 10–15 minutes or until pastry is well risen and beginning to brown, then reduce heat to moderate (180°C/350°F) and continue baking for a further 20–25 minutes or until pastry is golden-brown and filling is heated through. Cover top loosely with foil if pastry is over-browning. Serves 6.

VARIATIONS

This pie is easy to vary for special occasions. Substitute shelled, cooked prawns or crab, lightly poached scallops or fresh oysters for up to 250 g (8 oz) fish, and use scallop poaching liquid, oyster liquor or white wine in place of ½ cup milk.

VEGETABLE PIE

2 cups milk
1 onion, finely chopped
1 bouquet garni
pinch nutmeg
60 g (2 oz) butter
3 tablespoons flour
¼ cup grated mild cheese
large pinch dry mustard
small pinch cayenne
salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 cups diced or sliced cooked vegetables (beans, peas, carrots, corn, fennel, broccoli, cauliflower, peppers, mushrooms, celery)
1 quantity Rough Puff or Flaky Pastry, or 1 × 375 g packet frozen puff pastry, thawed
beaten egg to glaze

Heat milk in a saucepan with onion, bouquet garni and nutmeg until bubbles form round edge. Remove from heat and stand for 5 minutes, then remove bouquet garni. Melt butter in a heavy saucepan, stir in flour and cook on low heat for 1 minute. Remove from heat, cool a little and add milk, stirring until smoothly blended. Return to medium heat and stir until boiling. Remove from heat, stir in cheese, mustard and cayenne and season with salt and pepper. Fold vegetables into sauce and then cool completely. Spoon mixture into a pie dish just large enough to hold it. Cover with pastry dough and chill for 20 minutes. Cut a few small slits in top and brush with beaten egg. Bake in preheated very hot oven (230°C/450°F) for 10–15 minutes or until pastry is well risen and beginning to brown, then reduce heat to moderate (180°C/350°F) and continue baking for a further 25–30 minutes or until pastry is golden-brown and filling is heated through. Cover top loosely with foil if pastry is browning too much. Serve very hot. Serves 6.

SAVOURY MINCE PIE

double quantity Savoury Mince, cooled
1 quantity Plain Shortcrust Pastry
beaten egg to glaze

Spoon cool mince into pie plate or dish which will just hold it, and mound up a little in the centre. Roll out pastry dough and cover dish. If you have surplus dough, roll out, cut into triangles and bake with pie for extra servings. Chill for 20 minutes. Cut a few small slits in top and glaze with beaten egg. Bake the pie in a preheated hot oven (220°C/425°F) for about 10 minutes or until pastry is beginning to colour, then reduce heat to moderate (180°C/350°F) and continue baking for 20–30 minutes more or until pastry is golden-brown and filling heated through. Cover loosely with foil if pastry is over-browning. Serves 8.

LITTLE SCOTTISH MUTTON PIES

These Glasgow favourites were once called ‘Tuppenny Struggles’ – and wonderful value they were with their generous meat filling and good gravy. Today, we make them more often with lamb than mutton but otherwise they are the same – a perfect example of how delicious simple, old recipes can be.

500 g (1 lb) lean, boneless lamb, diced
1 small onion, grated
¼ teaspoon nutmeg
4 tablespoons beef stock
2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 quantity Hot Water Pastry
beaten egg to glaze

Mix lamb with onion, nutmeg, stock,Worcestershire sauce, salt and pepper. Divide pastry dough into 4 even portions. For each pie, take a portion and set aside half for lid (keep all dough you are not using in a covered bowl over hot water). Have ready a glass jar 8 cm (3 in) in diameter which has been rinsed out with hot water, dried and floured on the outside. Mould dough round jar, fasten on paper collar, fill and cover with pastry lid as described in Individual Raised Pork Pies. Glaze tops with beaten egg and cut a slit in each for steam to escape. Bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for about 45 minutes, removing paper collars after 20 minutes and covering tops with foil if pastry is browning too much. Serve hot. Makes 4.

SPANISH FISH PIE

Perfect for lunch or for picnics.

4 tablespoons olive oil
1 large onion, finely chopped
750 g (1½ lb) firm white fish fillets
1 large tomato, peeled, seeded and finely chopped
1 clove garlic, crushed
2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley
1½ teaspoons salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon grated lemon rind
¼ cup chopped stuffed olives
3 hard-boiled eggs, coarsely chopped
double quantity Rich Shortcrust Pastry

Heat 3 tablespoons oil in a heavy frying pan and cook onion until soft and golden. Remove any skin and bones from fish, cut into fingers and add to pan with tomato, garlic, parsley, salt, pepper and lemon rind. Simmer for 10 minutes, stirring gently several times. Check seasoning, then allow to cool. Add olives and eggs. Roll out just over half the pastry dough thinly and use to line 25 cm (10 in) pie plate. Spoon in cold filling. Roll out remaining dough and cover pie. Chill for 20 minutes. Cut a few slits in the top for steam to escape and brush with remaining oil. Bake in a preheated hot oven (200°C/400°F) for 25 minutes or until pastry is golden-brown and filling heated through. Cut into wedges to serve. Serves 4–6.

BACON AND EGG PIE

1 quantity Plain Shortcrust Pastry made with
2 cups flour (see Variation)
250 g (8 oz) lean rashers bacon, rind removed, chopped
4 eggs
½ cup cream
2½ tablespoons chopped parsley
salt and freshly ground black pepper
pinch nutmeg
beaten egg to glaze

Roll out just over half the pastry dough and use to line a 20–23 cm (8–9 in) pie plate. Arrange bacon in pie shell. Break eggs and slip them in on top of bacon. Mix cream with parsley and season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Pour over eggs. Roll out remaining pastry dough to make a lid and cover the pie. Make a slit in centre and decorate with pastry leaves made from trimmings, if liked. Rest in a cool place for 20 minutes, then glaze with beaten egg and bake in a preheated hot oven (200°C/400°F) for about 30 minutes or until golden-brown. Serve warm or cold. Serves 4–5.

EASTER CHEESE AND SPINACH PIE (TORTA PASQUALINA)

This savoury pie from Italy was originally made with 33 sheets of pastry, one for each year of Our Lord’s life. As the pastry had to be made by hand, it could take the cook all morning just to mix and roll it. Today, we use less pastry in line with a lighter approach to food, and packaged filo makes the job even easier.

12 sheets filo pastry
90 g (3 oz) butter, melted

Filling

1 large bunch silverbeet, or 2 bunches English spinach
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium onion, finely chopped
salt and freshly ground black pepper
500 g (1 lb) ricotta cheese
½ cup cream or evaporated milk
30 g (1 oz) butter
6 eggs
½ teaspoon dried marjoram
¾ cup grated Parmesan cheese

To make filling, cut stalks from silverbeet or spinach, rinse leaves well and steam until tender. Drain and chop finely by hand or in a food processor fitted with a steel blade. Press in a sieve to remove any remaining moisture. Heat oil in a heavy saucepan and gently fry onion until soft but not brown. Add silver-beet or spinach and stir together for 1–2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and set aside. Mash ricotta in a bowl and stir in cream or evaporated milk and a good pinch of salt.

Line a greased 23–25 cm (9–10 in) pie dish with 6 sheets of filo pastry, brushing each with melted butter. (The filo will stay pliable as you work if you place it between 2 dry tea-towels with a dampened tea-towel on top.) Spread sixth layer of pastry with spinach mixture and spoon ricotta over top. Make 6 hollows in ricotta and put a little knob of butter in each. Break an egg into each hollow and season with salt, pepper and marjoram. Sprinkle Parmesan cheese over all. Cover filling with remaining sheets of filo, brushing each sheet with melted butter. Press edges firmly together and trim excess pastry. Prick top layer of filo with a fork and brush generously with butter. Bake pie in a preheated hot oven (200°C/400°F) for 40 minutes or until the pastry is golden-brown. Serve hot or cold. Serves 6 generously.

FINNISH MEAT PIE

In Finland, mashed potatoes are often added to the pastry for savoury pies and the filling may contain a mixture of meats. If you can get coarse sea salt at your supermarket or delicatessen, do use it. The Finns consider it more nutritious than ordinary salt, and it does something special for the flavour.

Pastry

2 cups flour, sifted
½ teaspoon sea salt
1½ cups cold mashed potatoes
125 g (4 oz) butter, cut into small pieces
2–4 tablespoons iced water
beaten egg to glaze

Filling

1 large onion, finely chopped
30 g (1 oz) butter
500 g (1 lb) topside mince
250 g (8 oz) minced pork
1 cup beef stock
¾ cup cream
1½ teaspoons sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
cup brown rice (to become 1 cup)

To make pastry, combine flour, salt and mashed potatoes in a large bowl. Add butter and rub into mixture with the fingertips. Add enough iced water to make a firm dough. Wrap in plastic wrap and chill for 30 minutes or longer.

To make filling, fry onion in butter until soft and golden. Add meats and fry until brown, stirring and breaking up any lumps with a fork. Add stock, cream, salt and pepper and simmer for 15 minutes. Stir in parsley and rice. Check seasoning and allow to cool. Divide pastry dough in half and roll out one piece to a rectangle about 25 × 30 cm (10 × 12 in). Place on a greased shallow baking tin and cover with cold filling, leaving a margin of 2.5 cm (1 in) all around. Dampen edges. Roll out second piece of dough and cover filling, pressing edges firmly to seal. Prick top all over with a fork, glaze with beaten egg and decorate with dough trimmings. Bake in a preheated hot oven (200°C/400°F) for 30 minutes or until crust is crisp and golden-brown. Serve hot, warm or cold. Serves 6–8 as main course, or 12 as an appetiser.

NOTE: 750 g (1½ lb) lean pork and veal mince may be used instead of topside and pork.

RAISED PORK PIE

A true raised pie is made without a supporting mound, using hot water pastry which sets, when cool, into a sturdy shell that will stand by itself even before baking. The same pastry is used for the large cold pies which are called ‘raised’ but are made in decorative moulds – a splendid British tradition for cold buffets, pub meals and picnics.

1 kg (2 lb) pork, a mixture of lean and fat (neck of pork is ideal), cut into 1 cm (½ in) cubes
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon chopped mixed fresh herbs, or 1 tablespoon chopped parsley mixed with 1 teaspoon dried herbs
pinch cayenne
freshly ground white pepper
1 quantity Hot Water Pastry
beaten egg to glaze

Jellied stock

375 g (12 oz) pork bones
1 onion
6 cups water
salt
1 bouquet garni
6 white peppercorns

Make jellied stock the day before preparing pie. Place all ingredients in a heavy saucepan, cover and simmer very, very gently for about 4 hours, replenishing water as needed. Strain and allow to cool. Adjust seasoning if necessary. Chill and lift off fat.

Combine pork with salt, herbs, cayenne and plenty of pepper. Set aside. Set aside one-third of pastry dough for the lid, keeping it covered in a basin over hot water to prevent it hardening. Flatten remaining dough with your fist, lift into a loose-sided 20 cm (8 in) pie mould or springform tin and press it quickly onto the bottom and sides of the mould, bringing pastry just above rim. Fill mould to brim with pork filling, doming it slightly to support top crust. Roll out remaining dough and cover pie, pressing edges firmly to seal. Trim off overhang (return it to warm basin), press edge all round to push it out a little and flute with fingers. Cut a hole in centre of pie; decorate with a pastry rose, placed over hole, and some pastry leaves made from trimmings. Glaze pie with beaten egg. Bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for 2 hours, covering top with a piece of foil if pastry is browning too much. Remove from oven and allow to cool in the mould. Warm jellied stock gently until just melted. Remove pastry rose from pie, place a funnel in the hole and gradually pour in stock to fill pie. Allow to cool and set. To serve, replace pastry rose, remove sides of mould and lift pie onto a serving platter. If the pie is for a picnic, carry it in its mould and remove when you get there. Serves 6–8.

VARIATIONS

VEAL AND HAM PIE: Follow recipe for Pork Pie, but substitute veal bones for pork bones to make the stock and use the following filling instead of pork filling: 750 g (1½ lb) boneless shoulder of veal, cut into 2.5 cm (1 in) cubes; 125 g (4 oz) lean cooked ham, cut into small strips; 1 small onion, finely chopped; 2 teaspoons finely chopped parsley; 1 teaspoon grated lemon rind; salt and freshly ground black pepper. Arrange veal, ham and onion in layers inside pastry shell, scattering with parsley and lemon rind and seasoning with salt and pepper. Dome top slightly.

Hard-boiled eggs may be placed end to end when the pie is half-filled and covered with remaining filling. This gives a slice of egg in the middle of each slice of pie when it is cut.

INDIVIDUAL RAISED PORK PIES: The ingredients given for Raised Pork Pie will make 2 small pies 10–13 cm (4–5 in) in diameter. Prepare jellied stock and filling as directed in recipe. Make Hot Water Pastry. For each pie, take half the pastry dough and set aside one-third of this for lid (keep all dough you are not using in a covered bowl over hot water). Have ready a large glass jar 10–13 cm (4–5 in) in diameter and at least 10 cm high which has been rinsed out with hot water, dried and floured on the outside. Press remaining dough out to a round, stand jar in the middle and mould dough quickly around it, working up the sides. Turn jar upside-down with dough on it and continue to mould, pulling dough gently until it is about 10 cm (4 in) high. Place a collar of double greaseproof paper around the dough and secure it with a paper clip. Allow dough to cool, then carefully ease jar out of the dough case. Stand case on a baking tray. Spoon in filling, mounding it up. Roll out the reserved dough for lid, dampen edges and cover pie, pinching lid onto sides. Make a hole in centre of lid and decorate with a pastry rose or leaves and berries placed over hole. Glaze top with beaten egg and bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/ 350°F) for 1–1½ hours, removing paper collar after 30 minutes and covering top with a piece of foil if necessary to prevent over-browning. When cool, fill up carefully with stock as for Raised Pork Pie. Makes 2.

LEMON CHIFFON PIE

Although it has no top crust, its American origin gives this lovely dessert the name of ‘pie’, as Americans, a nation of pie-lovers, use the name for open and covered varieties.

Crumb crust

1½ cups fine sweet biscuit crumbs (Nice are ideal)
cup caster sugar
75 g (2½ oz) butter, melted

Filling

3 teaspoons powdered gelatine
¼ cup cold water
1 cup sugar
pinch salt
1 teaspoon grated lemon rind
½ cup lemon juice
4 eggs, separated
whipped cream to decorate

To make crumb crust, mix crumbs, sugar and butter in a bowl. Turn mixture into a 23 cm (9 in) tart plate and press and pat it out evenly onto the bottom and sides. Bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/ 350°F) for 8–10 minutes. Remove and cool.

To make filling, soften gelatine in cold water, then stir over simmering water until dissolved. Place ½ cup sugar, the salt, lemon rind and lemon juice in the top of a double saucepan or a heatproof bowl which will fit over a saucepan. Add egg yolks and gelatine mixture, stirring until well blended. Place over simmering water and stir until mixture thickens a little. Pour into a bowl and chill until mixture mounds when dropped from a spoon. Beat egg whites until foamy, then gradually beat in remaining sugar, beating until smooth and shiny. Fold egg whites into lemon mixture. Spread into pie shell and chill until serving time. Decorate with whipped cream. Serves 6–8.

VARIATIONS

LIME CHIFFON PIE: Follow recipe for Lemon Chiffon Pie, using gingersnap biscuit crumbs in the crust, and substituting grated lime rind and juice for lemon rind and juice.

ORANGE CHIFFON PIE: Follow recipe for Lemon Chiffon Pie, substituting 1 teaspoon grated orange rind and ½ cup orange juice plus 2 tablespoons lemon juice for the lemon rind and juice.

LATTICED RAISIN PIE

1 cup orange juice
½ cup water
1 cup seeded raisins
1½ cups sugar
4 tablespoons flour
3 tablespoons lemon juice
large pinch salt
1 quantity unsweetened Rich Shortcrust Pastry made with 2 cups flour (see Variation)
lightly beaten egg white and caster sugar to glaze

Bring orange juice and water to the boil, remove from heat and stir in raisins. Stand for 2 hours, then stir in sugar, flour, lemon juice and salt. Return to low heat and stir constantly until boiling and well thickened. Cool completely. Divide pastry dough into 2 portions, one a little larger than the other. Roll out larger portion and use to line a 23 cm (9 in) pie plate. Spoon in raisin mixture, mounding it slightly. Roll out remaining dough and cover pie with a lattice top (see Lattice-top Pies). Brush with egg white and sprinkle with caster sugar. Bake in a preheated very hot oven (220°C/425°F) for 10 minutes, then reduce heat to moderate (180°C/350°F) and bake for 25–30 minutes longer or until top is browned. Serves 6–8.