Margaret Fulton’s Encyclopedia of Food and Cookery

Sift icing sugar into a bowl and stir in coconut. Make a well in the centre and add egg whites and vanilla. Add shortening and stir thoroughly into sugar mixture. Divide mixture in half and tint one half pink with food colouring. Press white half evenly over bottom of greased and foil-lined 8 × 2.5 cm (3 × 10 in) bar tin. Press pink half evenly over white. Allow to set, then cut into pieces. Makes about 30 pieces.

COEUR À LA CRÈME

One of the simple, pastoral, sweet dishes of France.

COEUR À LA CRÈME

250 g (8 oz) cream cheese
1¼ cups cream
1 tablespoon caster sugar
2 egg whites
extra 1 cup cream to serve

Press cheese through a fine wire sieve, then beat in cream and sugar. Beat egg whites until they hold soft white peaks and lightly but thoroughly fold them in to cheese mixture. Turn into a muslin-lined mould (see below), place over a bowl and leave in refrigerator to drain overnight. When ready to serve, unmould onto a serving dish, remove muslin and pour cream over. Surround with strawberries, or serve with other fresh lightly poached fruits or with redcurrant jelly. French bar-le-duc jelly, famed for its excellence, is the traditional choice. Serves 4.

NOTE: The classic Coeur à la Crème mould is a little heart-shaped basket or perforated porcelain mould. You can improvise by piercing holes in a cream or cottage cheese carton, or simply use a round sieve.

COFFEE

Coffee is not only a beverage without which many of us would find life impossible, but one of the great flavours in cooking. Its distinctive fragrance enhances cakes, meringues, icings and fillings, and desserts both hot and cold. Whole coffee beans are used to flavour one of the most superb of ice creams and instant coffee granules are the secret of a brilliant ‘instant’ ice cream dessert.

ICE CREAM, COFFEE AND SCOTCH

A formidable combination.

2 scoops best quality vanilla ice cream
1–2 teaspoons instant coffee granules
1 tablespoon Scotch whisky

Spoon ice cream into an individual bowl, sprinkle over coffee and pour over whisky. Serve immediately. Serves 1.

COFFEE ICE CREAM

2 cups cream
4 egg yolks, beaten
1 cup freshly roasted coffee beans, cracked
¾ cup sugar

Stir cream into egg yolks, add coffee beans and cook in a heatproof bowl over simmering water, stirring constantly, until thickened. Remove from heat and add sugar, stirring until dissolved. Stand custard for several hours to develop a good coffee flavour, then strain through a nylon sieve into ice cream trays. Cover tightly with foil and freeze until it forms a solid rim about 2.5 cm (1 in) wide. Transfer to a chilled bowl and beat vigorously with an electric or rotary beater. Return to trays and freeze until firm and creamy. Place in refrigerator for 30 minutes before serving to soften a little. Serve with a crisp biscuit. Serves 6.

COFFEE ALMOND LAYER CAKE

Cake

125 g (4 oz) unsalted butter
½ cup caster sugar
¾ cup flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
2 teaspoons instant coffee powder
pinch salt
2 eggs, lightly beaten
½ cup ground almonds
flaked almonds to decorate

Frosting

185 g (6 oz) butter
2 cups icing sugar, sifted
2 teaspoons instant coffee powder, dissolved in 1 teaspoon hot water

To make cake, cream butter with sugar. Sift together flour, coffee and salt, and stir into creamed mixture alternately with eggs. Stir in ground almonds. Divide mixture evenly between 2 greased and bottom-lined 18 cm (7 in) sandwich tins. Bake in a preheated moderately hot oven (190°C/375°F) for about 25 minutes or until a skewer inserted in the centre comes out clean. Turn cakes out and cool on a wire rack.

To make frosting, cream butter with sugar until light and fluffy, then beat in coffee. Use frosting to sandwich cake layers together and to cover top and sides. Press flaked almonds lightly into top and sides to decorate.

COFFEE KISSES

1 cup very strong black coffee
1 cup water
2 cups sugar
5 egg whites
pinch salt
whipped cream to serve

Heat coffee, water and sugar together, stirring until sugar has dissolved, then boil without stirring to make a thick syrup. Beat egg whites in a heatproof bowl until foamy, add salt and beat whites to a firm snow. Pour on the syrup in a steady stream, beating all the time. Place bowl over simmering water and beat for 5 minutes. Drop the meringue from a teaspoon in small peaked mounds onto a baking tray lined with cooking parchment or foil, spacing the mounds a little apart. Bake in a preheated slow oven (150°C/300°F) for 40 minutes or until lightly browned at the top and firm to the touch. Cool. Store meringues in an airtight container. To serve, join together in pairs with whipped cream. Makes about 24.

COLCANNON

The splendid Irish relation of Bubble and Squeak.

COLCANNON

4 medium, old potatoes, peeled and quartered
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 medium onion, finely chopped
¾ cup milk
60 g (2 oz) butter
2 cups lightly cooked, finely chopped cabbage
finely chopped parsley to garnish

Cook potatoes in boiling water until tender. Drain them, return to saucepan and shake over low heat until they are dry and mealy. Mash them and season well. Put chopped onion and milk into a saucepan and bring to the boil; beat into potatoes until they are soft and light. Melt butter and toss cabbage in it. Fold into potato mixture and check seasoning. Transfer to a heated serving dish and sprinkle with parsley. Serves 4–6.

VARIATIONS

Colcannon is often served with bacon rashers, or a little cooked bacon can be chopped and added with the cabbage. If desired, colcannon can be fried. Press it in an even layer into a frying pan containing a little hot bacon fat or butter. Cook until brown and crusty underneath, then cut into pieces and turn over to make a fresh layer. Repeat until you have a cake with crisp brown bits through it.

COLESLAW

An American invention, coleslaw derives from the Dutch words kool sla, meaning cabbage salad. It can be hot or cold, crisp or wilted, and is an excellent accompaniment to sausages and cold or barbecued meats.

Choose green, red, Savoy or Chinese cabbage and shred finely (see directions under Cabbage). Put cabbage into iced water and leave for 30 minutes. Drain and dry well. For a crisp slaw, refrigerate in a plastic bag and mix with dressing shortly before serving. For wilted slaw, mix immediately with dressing, cover and refrigerate until needed.

See also Polenta.

COULIBIAC

A Russian delicacy which is a larger relation of pirog and piroshki. Coulibiac is a plump savoury turnover filled with layers of salmon, rice (or rice vermicelli) and eggs. In Russia it would be made with fresh salmon but it is delicious made with a good-quality canned salmon. The pastry can be a cream cheese pastry or puff pastry. Coulibiac is excellent served warm – it can be made ahead and reheated – or cold, with sour cream.

COULIBIAC

1 × 375 g ( 14 oz) packet frozen puff pastry, thawed
beaten egg to glaze

Filling

1 × 220 g can red salmon, drained
30 g (1 oz) butter
1 small onion, chopped
6–8 mushrooms, sliced
1 cup boiled rice
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
2 hard-boiled eggs, sliced
salt and freshly ground black pepper

To serve

½ cup melted butter mixed with juice
½ lemon or 1 cup sour cream (optional)

To make filling, flake drained salmon coarsely, discarding skin and bones. Melt about half butter in a frying pan, add onion and cook gently until soft. Add mushrooms, toss a few moments and remove pan from heat.

Roll out about three-quarters of the thawed puff pastry on a lightly floured surface to a neat rectangle about 18 × 30 cm (7 × 12 in). Place pastry on a baking tray and trim edges neatly, reserving trimmings. Leaving a clear border of 2.5 cm (1 in) all round, place filling ingredients in layers on pastry. Begin with a layer of rice, sprinkled with parsley and dotted with a little butter. Cover with a layer of salmon, then a layer of onion and mushroom mixture, then sliced eggs. Season each layer with salt and pepper.

Roll out remaining pastry to a rectangle that will cover the filling, and place it on top. Brush uncovered border with a little beaten egg and fold up to overlap the covering piece of dough. Press edges together to seal. Make 2 slits in top and decorate coulibiac with pastry fish or other shapes made from trimmings. Secure the decorations with beaten egg. Chill for at least 30 minutes, longer if desired.

Brush with beaten egg and bake in centre of a preheated hot oven (200°C/400°F) for 30 minutes. Remove from oven and pour a little melted butter through slits in top – or serve coulibiac with a melted butter and lemon sauce or sour cream. Serves 6.

COURT BOUILLON

Court bouillon is a flavoured, acidulated liquid used for cooking shellfish and whole or large pieces of fish. It may be based on water with a little vinegar or lemon juice added, or on a mixture of water and wine, with the addition of aromatic vegetables and herbs.

The purpose of court bouillon is to add flavour and to keep the flesh of the fish a good colour. Court bouillon is prepared ahead, strained and sometimes cooled before the fish is placed in it.

COURT BOUILLON
6 cups water

¼ cup lemon juice or white vinegar
2 teaspoons salt
½ bay leaf
1 carrot
½ stick celery
1 onion, sliced
6 parsley stalks
3–4 sprigs fresh tarragon, dill or chervil (optional)
6 black peppercorns

Put all ingredients except peppercorns into a covered saucepan (not aluminium). Simmer for 45 minutes, then add peppercorns and simmer for 10 minutes more. Strain before using. It will keep, refrigerated, about 1 week. Makes 5½ –6 cups.

NOTE: Half water and half dry white wine may be used instead of water and lemon juice or vinegar.

COUSCOUS

The cereal dish of North Africa, consisting of fine semolina combined with flour, salt and water to form tiny, pasta-like pellets. In Morocco, Algeria and Tunisia it is usually served as an accompaniment to savoury dishes of meat and vegetables. In Egypt it is more often served with sugar and nuts as a dessert.

To cook: Cover couscous with cold water, stir with the fingers and drain. Stand for 15 minutes to allow couscous to swell. Turn couscous into a fine sieve or muslin-lined colander which will fit snugly over a deep saucepan. For 500 g (1 lb) couscous, put 4 cups water or stock into saucepan, bring to the boil and place container over it (container must not touch liquid). Drape a tea-towel over the top, fit the lid on tightly and bring ends of cloth up over lid. Steam for 15 minutes, then turn couscous into a bowl. Fork over, breaking up any lumps, and sprinkle with 2 tablespoons cold water. Replenish water in saucepan if necessary and return couscous to steaming container. Steam as before for 30 minutes. Turn into a bowl, fork over again and toss with 125 g (4 oz) melted butter. Use as an accompaniment to stews, etc., or (for couscous cooked over plain water only) sprinkle with icing sugar and peanuts or almonds and serve as a dessert.

Instant couscous: This is a fast and convenient product readily available at most supermarkets. Pour the same quantity of warm stock or water over the couscous, let it rest for 5 minutes then warm it up slowly with some olive oil or butter, stirring with a fork quite often.

COUSCOUS WITH GRILLED VEGETABLES

1 tablespoon olive oil
1 teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon salt
1½ cups water or chicken stock
2 cups instant couscous
2 ripe tomatoes, seeded and cubed
2 teaspoons lemon juice
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 bunch coriander, chopped
olive oil
2 green and 2 red peppers, cut into quarters lengthways
6 small eggplants, halved
6 small zucchinis, halved

Heat the oil in a small saucepan, add the cumin, and heat until fragrant. Add the salt, water or stock, and bring to the boil. Stir in the couscous and let the mixture stand, covered, off the heat for 5 minutes. Fluff the mixture with a fork and stir in the tomatoes and lemon juice. Add salt and pepper to taste. Toss all the vegetables in olive oil and place under a preheated grill, turning, until tender and golden. Alternatively, cook on the stove using a grill pan. Cool, leave whole or cut into small pieces, and set aside.

Toss the coriander through the couscous, adding half the vegetables. To serve, pile the couscous onto a serving platter and top with the remaining vegetables. Top with extra coriander or torn mint leaves before serving. Serves 4–6.

CRAB

The large mud crab, with its fierce, awesome claws and large, bulky body, is one of the delicacies of the table. It ranges in colour from dark olive-green to brown and turns a bright red when cooked. The weight can be up to 2.5 kg (5 lb) for a large specimen; however, the weight most commonly sold is about 750 g (1½ lb). The meat from the claws is of exceptional flavour; the flesh from the body, picked from between the thin shell walls, is sweet and delicate.

The blue swimmer crab is one of the smallest and best eating crabs. Also called sand or blue manna crab, it is bluish-green, the long legs, paddles and claws a vibrant cobalt blue – hence the name; it changes its colour to orange-red when cooked. The average size is around 250–375 g (8–12 oz), although they can reach a weight of over 1 kg (2 lb).

The giant Tasmanian crab is one of the largest of all crabs and is rivalled only by the Alaskan king crab and huge spider crabs caught off Japan. It makes excellent eating, being very meaty with a fine flavour and texture; however, it is not fished commercially in any quantity, and so does not often appear in fish markets.

When buying crab, alive or cooked, choose crabs that feel heavy for their size, and smell fresh and sweet with no hint of ammonia.

Crabmeat is available in cans. Picked crabmeat is also available in packets, both fresh and frozen – useful when crabmeat flesh is used in a recipe.

To cook: First drown the crab (or crabs) in fresh water. Bring a large saucepan of fresh seawater (or salted water) to the boil, drop in a bouquet garni, 1 sliced carrot, 1 halved onion, 2 sliced sticks celery, and simmer gently for 10–15 minutes, depending on the size. The crabs will turn red. Remove the crabs.

To prepare a cooked crab for eating: At all times work with a cloth to protect the hands. Remove the big claws and set aside; twist off the legs. Remove the undershell by using thumbs to prise out round body section from underside. Remove and discard the beige, spongy gills lying flat against inner side of body shell. Cut the undershell body in two. You now have 2 semi-circles; each semi-circle is divided by thin shell partitions into 4 segments. Split through the semi-circle horizontally, then you can scoop out the meat from between the partitions with a small spoon. Place the flesh in a bowl and discard the rest.

To crack the claws: Fold double newspaper over them, crack with a hammer, then pull out the meat. Sometimes the claws and legs are cracked and served with a fork, the diner extracting the flesh.

To crack crabs: Remove claws and legs; crack shell with a hammer. Remove the undershell, discarding spongy gills. Cut undershell in two, then cut each semi-circle horizontally (see To prepare a cooked crab for eating).

NOTE: There is a mustardy curd present in all crustacea – its presence in abundance indicates not only freshness but quality. This curd is often added to a little cream or mayonnaise and served with the crab.

Hot Crabs with Butter: Cook crabs as above, crack them open, and arrange on a large plate.

Melt 125 g (4 oz) butter with ½ cup white wine, 3 tablespoons chopped parsley, 1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme and ¼ cup chopped spring onions; pour butter mixture over cracked crabs. The meat is extracted, then dipped in butter. Place plenty of paper napkins nearby, and a finger bowl.

Crab salad: Prepare cooked crab as described. The flesh may be returned to the cleaned and washed crab shell or set on a bed of shredded lettuce. Surround with cracked claws and legs. Send to table with freshly made mustard, the curd from the crab mixed with cream or mayonnaise, some good mild vinegar and brown bread and butter.

NOTE: Mustard enhances the flavour of crab and should always be used in crab sandwiches.

CHILLI CRAB

A lovely way of treating crab, from Malaysia.

1 raw mud crab, or 3 blue swimmers
½ cup peanut oil
6 thin slices fresh ginger, cut in strips
3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1–2 fresh chillies, seeded and chopped
cup chilli sauce (Malaysian)
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon salt

Remove large claws from crab and crack. Remove undershell and discard gills. Cut body in 2 or 3 pieces, depending on size. Crack legs. Heat a wok or large frying pan, add oil and when hot, fry crab pieces until they change colour, turning so they cook on all sides. Remove to a plate. Turn heat to low, add ginger, garlic and chillies and fry for 1 minute. Add sauce, sugar and salt and bring to the boil. Return crab and cook gently, turning crab in sauce to cook and flavour. Rice may accompany crab. Serve with finger bowls and napkins. Serves 2–3.

CRAB IN BLACK BEAN SAUCE

A Chinese specialty – best eaten with fingers and a fork or, if adept, with chopsticks.

1 raw mud crab, or 3 blue swimmers
½ cup peanut oil
6 thin slices fresh ginger, cut in strips
2 cloves garlic, crushed
2 tablespoons canned black beans
2 teaspoons soy sauce
cup hot chicken stock
1 teaspoon cornflour, blended with a little water

Remove large claws from crab and crack. Remove undershell and discard gills. Cut body in 2 or 3 pieces, depending on size. Crack legs. Heat oil in wok or large frying pan, add ginger, garlic and black beans and fry, crushing beans with back of spoon. Add crab pieces and cook over fairly high heat, tossing and turning until they change colour. Add soy sauce, stock and cornflour. Cook for 2–3 minutes. Serve crab and sauce with boiled rice and finger bowls and large napkins. Serves 2–3.

STIR-FRIED CRAB

In the province of Hunan, small crabs are cut up and stir-fried. Provide finger bowls and large napkins when serving.

3–4 raw blue swimmers, or 1 large mud crab
3 tablespoons cornflour
3 tablespoons light soy sauce
2 tablespoons Chinese rice wine or sherry
1 tablespoon sugar
1½ tablespoons vinegar
1 tablespoon chopped shallot
1 teaspoon chopped fresh ginger
¼ cup water
¼ cup peanut oil
2 teaspoons sesame oil

Remove large claws and shells from crabs and crack. Remove undershell and discard gills. Cut bodies into 4 or more pieces. Crack legs. Coat crab pieces with cornflour. Combine remaining ingredients except peanut and sesame oil. Heat a wok or large frying pan, add peanut oil and when hot, fry crab pieces until they change colour, stirring well. Add flavouring mixture and cook over low heat, stirring, for about 5 minutes. Place crab on heated platter and sprinkle with sesame oil. Serves 2–3.

DEVILLED CRAB

45 g (1½ oz) butter
1 tablespoon flour
¾ cup milk or cream
2 hard-boiled eggs, chopped
1 tablespoon French mustard
pinch cayenne
1½ cups canned, frozen or cooked fresh crabmeat, picked over
1 cup fresh white breadcrumbs

Melt 30 g (1 oz) butter in a saucepan, blend in flour and stir in milk or cream. Bring to the boil, stirring. Fold in eggs, mustard, cayenne and crabmeat and heat gently. Put mixture into 4 buttered ramekins or crab or scallop shells. Top with breadcrumbs and dot with remaining butter. Brown in a preheated hot oven (200°C/400°F) or under a preheated grill. Serves 4.

CRAB EGG FU YUNG

Delicious omelettes, a specialty of Canton.

250 g (8 oz) canned, frozen or cooked fresh crabmeat, picked over
1 cup cooked peas
1 teaspoon sherry
2 spring onions, sliced
3 slices fresh ginger, finely chopped
½ cup sliced water chestnuts
1 teaspoon salt
pinch freshly ground black pepper
6 eggs, beaten
4 tablespoons vegetable oil

Combine crabmeat with peas, sherry, spring onions, ginger, water chestnuts, salt and pepper. Add eggs. Heat oil in a frying pan and fry large spoonfuls of omelette mixture, turning once, until golden-brown on both sides. Serve with soy sauce. Makes 6.

CRAB BISQUE

90 g (3 oz) butter
2 tablespoons grated onion
2 teaspoons flour
2 cups canned, frozen or cooked fresh crabmeat, picked over
3 cups warm milk
1 cup cream
salt and freshly ground white pepper
pinch nutmeg
3 tablespoons sherry
2 tablespoons chopped parsley or chives

Melt butter in saucepan, add onion and cook gently for 2 minutes. Stir in flour. Add crabmeat and heat through, then stir in warm milk. Heat through but do not boil. Add cream, salt, pepper, nutmeg, sherry and parsley or chives. Serves 6.

CRAB CAKES

Can be made in miniature for little cocktail-sized crab cakes.

2 thick slices crustless bread
milk to cover
500 g (1 lb) crabmeat, picked over
1 tablespoon Mayonnaise
½ teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
1 tablespoon baking powder
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
flour for dusting
light olive oil for frying

Soak the bread in milk to cover for 15 minutes. Squeeze out excess milk gently and place bread in a bowl with the crab, mayonnaise, salt,Worcestershire sauce, baking powder and parsley. Work into a combined mixture. Using slightly wetted hands shape mixture into 8–10 patties, dust with flour and fry in light olive oil on each side until golden. Drain on paper towels and serve as soon as possible. Serves 4.

CRABAPPLE

Crabapple trees are grown mainly for their beauty, but the small, sour fruits make excellent preserves and jelly. Crabapple jelly is made in the same way as quince jelly. See Quince.

SPICED CRABAPPLES

500 g (1 lb) crabapples
3 cups boiling water
2 strips lemon peel
1½ cups sugar
6 cloves
4 whole allspice
1 × 5 cm (2 in) cinnamon stick
4 black peppercorns
½ teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons wine vinegar

Simmer crabapples, water and lemon peel together in a covered saucepan until crabapples are barely tender. Lift out fruit and discard lemon peel. Add sugar, spices tied in a bag, salt and vinegar to pan and stir until sugar has dissolved, then boil without stirring for 5 minutes. Replace crabapples in liquid and simmer for 35–45 minutes, or until liquid is syrupy, removing spice bag after 30 minutes. Put the crabapples into sterilised jars and strain syrup over. Cool and seal. Serve with pork, ham, goose or duck. Makes 1½ –2 cups.

CRANBERRY

A tart fruit cultivated in North America and used in jellies, tarts, poultry glazes and pies. Cranberry sauce is a thick fruity sauce, the traditional accompaniment for roast turkey at Christmas and, in the USA, at Thanksgiving feasts. You can buy it ready-made from good food stores.

Dried cranberries are nibbled as for other dried fruit, added to salads or used in baking.

CRAYFISH (AUSTRALIAN ROCK LOBSTER)

See Lobster.

CREAM

The fatty part of whole milk which rises to the surface on standing, or it can be separated from the milk. There are few dishes which do not improve with the addition of cream. It adds richness and smoothness to sauces, soups and casseroles. It is often used to decorate and fill cakes, and as an ingredient in flavoured creams and custards. Cream is served with puddings, fruits and many desserts.

Types of cream:

Cream: Fresh cream is just ‘cream’; it has a minimum fat content of 35%.

Thickened cream: This is cream with a small amount of gelatine added to thicken and stabilise it. It holds well when whipped, and has a longer storage life than ordinary cream.

Sour cream: This is cream with a culture added to give it a sharp tangy flavour. Its thick consistency means it can be swirled through soups, either hot or chilled. It is used to accompany paprikas and goulash or with chopped spring onions and fried crumbled bacon in potato salad. Serve sour cream in a separate bowl with smoked fish such as mackerel and trout. It is the traditional accompaniment with caviar for the buckwheat pancakes called Blini, and is used as a topping for Idaho potatoes baked in their skins.

Sour light cream: This has a lower fat content than sour cream, and is not as thick or sharp. It adds freshness and lightness to salad dressing, soups and sauces. It is particularly good with iced soups such as cucumber, lettuce, spinach and pumpkin.

Reduced cream and light cream: These have lower fat contents than ordinary cream. They provide richness without adding so many kilojoules (calories). However, because of the lower fat content, these creams do not whip successfully.

Canned creams: These are heat-treated to last without refrigeration. Treat as fresh cream and refrigerate after opening.

UHT creams: These are subject to ultra-high heat treatment, which gives them a long shelf life. Once opened they should be refrigerated. They usually whip successfully.

Ways to use cream:

Pan sauces: Add 2–3 tablespoons cream with ¼ cup stock or wine to pan after sautéeing fillet steaks, chicken fillets, fish fillets or pork chops. Stir rapidly and continuously until thickened, scraping up pan juices. Season as desired and pour over previously cooked meat, fish or poultry. Pan gravy for roast chicken may be made in the same way. Remove chicken and all but 1 tablespoon fat from the pan, then proceed as above, using more cream and stock.

Whipped cream: For best and fastest results, chill cream and bowl first. If it is a hot day, place bowl of chilled cream over ice. Whip with a whisk, rotary or electric beater until it reaches the consistency desired. Be careful not to overbeat, as the cream will turn to butter. Whip until soft peaks form and hold their shape. Stop beating immediately if the colour darkens and cream clings heavily to the beaters.

You may whip 1 cup cream with 1 egg white if you want to use the cream for piping. This helps to stabilise the cream and it holds its shape better. It is best to add flavour to cream after whipping by folding through quickly and lightly. Avoid using sugar if possible, as the cream can separate and does not retain its freshness for as long as plain whipped cram. Flavour whipped cream with liqueurs, wines such as sherry or port, essence or sweet spice. If making Crème Chantilly, which is sweetened, use as soon as possible.

Ice Cream: Cream is essential to all true ice creams. This is a rich, quickly made ice cream. Beat 4 egg whites with 4 tablespoons caster sugar until stiff and glossy. Beat in 4 egg yolks, with 1 tablespoon brandy, 2 tablespoons strong black coffee or 1 teaspoon vanilla essence. Fold 1 cup whipped cream through egg mixture. Pour into ice cream trays, cover and freeze for 4 hours or overnight. Use within 7 days. Serves 6–8.

See also Pancakes.

BASIC CRÊPES

1¼ cups flour
pinch salt
3 eggs, beaten
1½ cups milk
1 tablespoon brandy
2 teaspoons melted butter
extra butter for frying

Sift flour and salt into a bowl. Make a well in centre and add eggs and milk. Using a wooden spoon, mix well, drawing in flour from sides. Beat well, then stir in brandy and melted butter. Cover and stand for 1 hour. Strain, as the batter must be free of lumps.

Heat a little butter in an 18 cm (7 in) crêpe pan and pour off excess. Use a jug and pour about 1 tablespoon batter into pan. Rotate pan quickly to coat bottom thinly and evenly, then pour off any excess batter. Heat gently and when small bubbles appear (after about 1 minute) use a spatula to flip crêpe over. Cook for 1 minute on other side. Makes 20–24.

SEAFOOD CRÊPES

6 spring onions, finely chopped
60 g (2 oz) butter
125 g (4 oz) shelled prawns
125 g (4 oz) shelled mussels
6–8 scallops, poached for 1 minute
6–8 oysters (optional)
1 egg yolk
2 teaspoons dry sherry
3 hard-boiled eggs, chopped
2 teaspoons snipped chives
8–12 crêpes (see Basic Crêpes, above)
2 tablespoons whipped cream
slivered toasted almonds to garnish

Cream sauce

2 cups milk
1 bay leaf
½ onion, chopped
5 black peppercorns
60 g (2 oz) butter
4 tablespoons flour
½ cup cream
salt and freshly ground white pepper

To make cream sauce, heat milk slowly in a saucepan over low heat with bay leaf, onion and peppercorns. When bubbles form around edge, remove from heat, cover and stand for 10 minutes. Melt butter over low heat, stir in flour and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Remove from heat, cool a little, then strain in warm milk and cream. Stir until smoothly blended, then return to heat and stir until boiling. Season.

Cook the spring onions gently in butter until softened. Add prawns, mussels, scallops and oysters. Set aside 4 tablespoons cream sauce and fold egg yolk, sherry, chopped eggs, chives and seafood mixture into the remainder. Spread on crêpes, roll up and arrange in one layer in a buttered, ovenproof serving dish. Cover dish with foil and warm in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for 15 minutes. Fold cream into reserved 4 tablespoons sauce. Uncover crêpes and spoon sauce along centre of dish. Return dish to oven and bake, uncovered, for 5 minutes. Garnish with toasted almonds and serve immediately. Serves 4–6.

SPINACH AND RICOTTA CRÊPES

1 kg (2 lb) spinach
30 g (1 oz) plus 1 tablespoon butter
1½ cups ricotta cheese
pinch nutmeg
1 teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
10–12 crêpes (see Basic Crêpes)
½ cup sour light cream

Cook spinach, covered, in large saucepan in a little water for 10 minutes over a moderate heat. Drain thoroughly, squeezing the leaves in your hands to remove all moisture. Chop and purée in a blender with 1 tablespoon butter. Press ricotta cheese through a sieve. Add it to cooled spinach with beaten egg yolks, half of the Parmesan cheese, the nutmeg, salt and pepper. Blend to a smooth paste. Spoon this filling along each crêpe. Roll up and place in a greased ovenproof dish. Dot with remaining butter. Cover with foil and cook in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for 20–25 minutes or until well heated through. Remove foil, spoon over sour cream and sprinkle with remaining Parmesan cheese. Return to oven and cook, uncovered, for a further 10 minutes. Serves 5–6.

HUNGARIAN PANCAKES

60 g (2 oz) butter
1 small onion, finely chopped
1 tablespoon paprika
1 cup Béchamel Sauce
125 g (4 oz) mushrooms, sliced
1 cup fresh, canned or frozen crabmeat, drained and flaked
¾ cup cream
salt and freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup brandy
8 crêpes (see Basic Crêpes)
30 g (1 oz) Parmesan cheese, grated

Melt half the butter in a saucepan, add onion and cook gently for 10 minutes or until soft. Stir in paprika and cook gently for 2 minutes, then add béchamel sauce and continue cooking over a low heat for 5 minutes. Allow mixture to cool slightly. Sauté mushrooms in remaining butter and add half of them to paprika sauce with crab, half the cream, the salt and pepper and 2 teaspoons brandy. Spoon this filling along each crêpe, roll them up and arrange in a buttered ovenproof dish. Warm remaining brandy, set alight and pour over remaining mushrooms. Shake over heat until flames die out, then add remaining cream. Cook, stirring, until sauce thickens slightly, then spoon over crêpes. Sprinkle with cheese and bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for 10–15 minutes or until glazed. Serves 8 as a first course, 4 as a main course.

CRÊPES SUZETTE

8 crêpes (see Basic Crêpes)
30 g (1 oz) butter, melted
4 cubes sugar
2 oranges
extra 60 g (2 oz) butter, softened
2 tablespoons Grand Marnier, Cointreau or Curaçao
sifted icing sugar for dusting
3 tablespoons brandy

Brush cooked crêpes with melted butter and keep warm in oven. Rub each sugar cube over skin of oranges to remove zest or oil. This process saturates sugar with oil from the orange rind and the oranges will look as though their rinds have been grated. Crush sugar and work in softened butter and liqueur. Spread each warm crêpe with orange butter and fold into a triangle. Arrange crêpes overlapping down the centre of a heated serving dish and dust with icing sugar. Heat brandy in a small saucepan, set alight and pour over the crêpes. Serves 4.

SOUFFLÉ IN A CRÊPE

Paper-thin crêpes encasing a light-as-air soufflé taste great and look splendid when carried to the table. The crêpes can be made ahead, as can the soufflé up to the point of adding the beaten egg whites. Then, just as you have finished the main course, add the whites to the mixture, and spoon into the crêpes – they take only 5–8 minutes to bake.

3 tablespoons flour
3 tablespoons caster sugar
pinch salt
¾ cup milk
3 eggs, separated
few drops vanilla essence
about 12 crêpes (see Basic Crêpes)
icing sugar
¼ cup Grand Marnier or other orange-flavoured liqueur

Mix flour, sugar and salt in a saucepan and stir in milk. Cook over a gentle heat, stirring constantly, until thickened, and simmer for 2 minutes. Remove from heat and beat in egg yolks. Whisk egg whites until stiff and fold into yolk mixture with vanilla. Put a good tablespoon of this soufflé mixture in centre of each crepe. Fold crêpes loosely in quarters and arrange in a buttered ovenproof serving dish. Bake in a preheated hot oven (200°C/400°F) for 5–8 minutes. Sift over icing sugar, sprinkle with Grand Marnier and serve immediately. Serves 6.

APRICOT PANCAKES

10–12 crêpes (see Basic Crêpes)
apricot conserve
lemon juice
finely chopped walnuts
sifted icing sugar
whipped cream to serve

Spread each crêpe with apricot conserve mixed with a few drops of lemon juice. Roll them up loosely and arrange in a greased ovenproof dish. Heat the crêpes in a preheated cool oven (100°C/200°F) for about 10 minutes. Serve sprinkled with nuts and icing sugar, with a bowl of freshly whipped cream. Serves 5–6.

VARIATIONS

Combine 125 g (4 oz) ricotta or cream cheese with 1 tablespoon chopped mixed candied peel, grated rind 1 orange and 1 tablespoon caster sugar. Use to fill crêpes instead of apricot conserve, then heat as above.

Fill crêpes with sweetened stewed apple flavoured with cinnamon or sweetened stewed peaches, plums or apricots instead of apricot conserve, then heat as above.

Fill crêpes with sweetened chestnut purée flavoured with a little rum instead of apricot conserve, then heat as above.

CRESS

Mustard and cress: Mustard seeds and cress seeds are planted together. Cress is sown 2 or 3 days before the mustard. Use both while they are still seedlings about 2.5–5 cm (1–2 in) high. Scatter freshly snipped mustard and cress over hard-boiled egg slices, salmon salads, Cheddar cheese and tomato slices.

Watercress: Small sprigs of dark green watercress leaves make a beautiful garnish for roast lamb or chicken, grilled lamb cutlets or kidneys, and green or orange salads. When buying watercress choose bunches with very dark green, quite large leaves. Try to use it as soon as possible after purchase or store tied in small bunches in sealed plastic bags in refrigerator. The bunches can also be put in a vase of water and stored in a cool place or submerged in a bowl of water.

Watercress and Walnut Salad: Discard any yellowing leaves or thick stems from a bunch of watercress. Wash quickly, drain and dry. Put 2 cups watercress and ½ cup halved walnuts in salad bowl. When ready to serve, toss with a dressing made with 1 tablespoon olive or walnut oil and a squeeze lemon juice. Serve with chicken or pork. Serves 6.

Watercress Sauce: Make 1 cup Béchamel Sauce. Fold in ½ cup Watercress Purée (below). Season with salt, freshly ground black pepper and lemon juice. Use with lamb, chicken or fish dishes.

Watercress Purée: Blanch 2 cups watercress in ½ cup boiling water for 2 minutes. Purée in blender or rub through a sieve. Stir in 1 tablespoon butter.

Watercress Soup: See Soups.

CROISSANT

Croissants are crescent-shaped rolls which make breakfast for millions of people in France and the Continent. The classic croissant is made of a yeast milk dough that has been rolled, spread with butter and folded several times. It is light, flaky and buttery, and is served warm either on its own or with jam or preserves.

Jam croissant: A type of croissant using puff pastry. A little jam is placed along the base of a triangle of puff pastry, which is then rolled into a crescent. After baking they are sprinkled with caster sugar, and served warm.

CROQUE MONSIEUR

This French favourite is virtually a toasted cheese sandwich with ham added and is sold in nearly every sidewalk and open-air café. Delicious with a glass of wine or cup of hot coffee. Use crusty French bread or a sandwich loaf.

CROQUE MONSIEUR

8 slices white bread
butter
4 slices lean cooked ham
1 cup grated Emmenthal or Gruyère cheese
freshly ground black pepper

Spread bread generously with butter and make into sandwiches with ham, cheese and a grinding of black pepper. Press firmly together and trim crusts if liked. Fry in butter until golden-brown on both sides. Drain on crumpled paper towels. Serve hot. Serves 4.

VARIATION

Prepare Croque Monsieur as above, but before frying dip sandwiches in a mixture of 2 eggs beaten with ½ cup milk.

CROQUEMBOUCHE (CROQUE-EN-BOUCHE)

The French croque-en-bouche translated means ‘crunch and crumble in the mouth’. Croquembouche is usually made with little choux puffs filled with cream, toffee-glazed and arranged in a pyramid shape on a circular base. When the pyramid is decorated with spun sugar and crystallised fruit or flowers, it becomes a traditional French wedding cake. Other croquembouche can be made with tiny, crisp meringues filled with cream, or even with orange segments, dipped in sugar syrup, resting on a base of pastry.

CROQUETTE

A mixture of chopped savoury food, bound with sauce, formed into a small cork or cylinder shape, then dipped in egg, crumbed and fried. Well-made croquettes make a delicious entrée or lunch dish. Their texture should be such that the creamy inside contrasts deliciously with the crisp crumb covering. They can be made with freshly cooked ingredients but are also an attractive way of using leftover food.

CHICKEN CROQUETTES

2 teaspoons lemon juice
1 egg yolk
1 cup panada-thickness Béchamel Sauce
2 cups finely chopped cooked chicken
1 tablespoon each finely chopped chives and parsley
pinch nutmeg
little melted butter
flour
1 egg
1 teaspoon oil
pinch salt
dry white breadcrumbs
oil for deep-frying
parsley sprigs to garnish

Beat lemon juice and egg yolk into hot béchamel sauce, then mix in chicken, chives, parsley and nutmeg, combining thoroughly. Cover surface with plastic wrap and leave in pan until cool. Turn mixture out onto a buttered baking tray and shape to a rectangle about 2 cm (¾ in) thick. Brush surface with melted butter and chill well. Divide into 8 equal parts. Working on a lightly floured surface with floured hands, form into cork shapes, rolling with the side of the hand and flattening ends. Beat egg with oil and salt. Flour croquettes lightly, then coat with egg mixture and breadcrumbs. Chill for 30 minutes. Deepfry, a few at a time, in hot oil (temperature is right when a bread cube fries golden-brown in 20 seconds). Drain on paper towels and serve hot, garnished with parsley. Serves 4.

CROUSTADE

A bread case made to hold a savoury filling, usually of sauced mixtures based on ham, poultry, seafood or vegetables.

Use one-day-old bread, cut into 5 cm (2 in) slices and remove the crust. Scoop out the centre leaving a rim 1 cm (½ in) thick around the sides and base. Brush inside and out with melted butter and bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for about 30 minutes or until crisp and golden-brown.

You can make one large croustade by using a whole loaf of white bread. Remove the crusts, do not slice and proceed as for individual croustades, above.

CROÛTES AND CROÛTONS

Croûtes can be small triangles, heart shapes or rounds of bread, varying from 2.5 cm (1 in) to 7.5 cm (3 in) in diameter. They are fried in oil, butter or a mixture of these, and used as a base on which to set Tournedos, as a base for Canapés and to accompany mornays or other dishes.

Croûtons are tiny cubes of bread that have been fried to golden crispness in oil, butter or a mixture of these. They are used as a garnish for soups, fricassees and vegetable purées, or in salads.

Garlic Croûtons: Fry 1–2 cloves sliced garlic in oil or butter and remove before bread cubes are added.

Oven Baked Croûtes: Remove crusts from sliced bread and cut each slice into 4. Brush with oil and bake in a slow oven (160°C/325°C) until golden.

CROWN ROAST

This is made with 2 racks of lamb bent round and sewn together at each end, with bones on the outside and meat on the inside. Each rack consists of 7 or 8 cutlets and is chined (the bone cut through between each cutlet), trimmed of all the skin and some of the fat, and the meat is cleaned away from the bones to about 4 cm (1½ in) from the ends.

Your butcher will prepare a crown roast for you if you ask a day or two ahead. Order it by the number of cutlets, according to how many people you wish to serve; allow 2–3 cutlets per person.

To roast: Cover ends of bones with foil and stand prepared crown roast in a baking dish. Roast in a preheated hot oven (200°C/400°F) for about 1 hour or until meat juice runs clear when tested with a skewer. If desired, the centre may be filled with stuffing after first 30 minutes’ cooking (see Stuffings).Remove from oven and allow meat to stand for 15 minutes in a warm place while making gravy. When ready to serve, cover ends of each cutlet bone with a paper cutlet frill, and slice meat into double cutlets for serving.

CRUDITÉS (RAW VEGETABLES)

One of the favourite hors d’oeuvre of provincial France. Prepare a variety of fresh, crisp, young raw vegetables and arrange decoratively on a large platter. You might have carrot, celery or pepper sticks; cauliflower florets, zucchini chunks, tiny tomatoes, baby squash, button mushrooms, etc.

Serve with a dip or sauce for dunking such as Mayonnaise, Aïoli or natural yogurt flavoured with herbs and crushed garlic.

CUCUMBER

This member of the gourd family is usually eaten as a salad vegetable, but its delicate and distinctive flavour is very good in soups and hot vegetable dishes too. Hot or cold, it makes an attractive container for other foods; its refreshing coolness makes it important as a curry accompaniment. It makes the most elegant of tea sandwiches, and an outstandingly good and easily prepared pickle.

Varieties include green cucumbers, some as long as 50 cm (20 in), pale round apple cucumbers and small rough-skinned, pickling cucumbers. White or golden-skinned, long varieties are claimed to be ‘burpless’ and easy to digest. Store cucumbers in the refrigerator crisper and use within a week.

Basic preparation: Green cucumbers may be left unpeeled, scored lengthways with a fork and sliced into thin rounds, or may be lightly peeled so that some of the green remains and cut into slices, sticks or cubes. Seeds may be scooped out or not, as preferred. Apple cucumbers are peeled and cut up as desired. Raw cucumber may be dégorged to make it more digestible and make the flavour milder (this also wilts it).To dégorge, sprinkle slices with salt and leave to drain in colander for 30 minutes. Rinse before using.

HOT CUCUMBERS WITH BASIL AND TOMATOES

A superb accompaniment to grilled chicken or fish.

2 medium green cucumbers
salt
30 g (1 oz) butter
2 spring onions, including green tops
½ cup Crème Fraîche
freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon fresh basil leaves
3 medium tomatoes, peeled, seeded and diced

Peel cucumbers thinly, halve lengthways and scoop out seeds. Cut crossways into crescents about 5 mm (¼ in) thick. Sprinkle with salt and leave to drain in a colander for 20 minutes. Rinse and dry well. Heat butter in a pan, add cucumber and cook on high heat for 2–3 minutes, turning the pieces over to seal them. Cut spring onions on the long diagonal into slivers and add to pan with crème fraîche. Season with salt and pepper and cook gently for 5 minutes more. Serve at once, scattered with reserved basil. Serves 6.

CHILLED CUCUMBER YOGURT SOUP

Quick, light and healthy, with a pleasant tang.

1 green cucumber, lightly peeled, seeded and chopped
2 spring onions, including some green part, cut into short lengths
1 teaspoon chopped fresh mint
1½ cups plain yogurt
salt and freshly ground white pepper
paper-thin cucumber slices to garnish

Purée vegetables, mint and yogurt in a food processor or blender. Season with salt and pepper and chill. Serve in chilled bowls with a slice of cucumber floated on each serving. Serves 4.

CUCUMBER PICKLES

These crisp pickles can be eaten after 8 hours.

They’re lovely with sandwiches or with hot or cold corned beef or other meats.

12 green cucumbers, 13–15 cm (5–6 in) long
1 tablespoon salt
1 large clove garlic, quartered
4 tiny onions (pickling onions), peeled and halved
8 bay leaves
4 small cinnamon sticks
4 teaspoons mustard seeds
2 teaspoons prepared horseradish
¾ cup white vinegar
½ cup sugar
½ cup water

Peel cucumbers, slice lengthways into quarters and remove seeds. Place in a bowl, sprinkle with salt and leave for 2 hours. Lift cucumber out but do not rinse, and pack quarters lengthways into warm, sterilised 2½ -cup (1-pint) jars, allowing 3 cucumbers per jar. Into each jar tuck ¼ garlic clove, 2 onion halves, 2 bay leaves, 1 cinnamon stick, 1 teaspoon mustard seeds and ½ teaspoon horseradish. Heat vinegar, sugar and water together, stirring until sugar has dissolved. Bring to the boil and pour into jars. Seal at once. Makes 4 × 2½ -cup (1-pint) jars.

NOTE: For sterilising jars and storing preserves see Jams.

CUCUMBER APPETISER

1 medium green cucumber, lightly peeled and finely sliced
salt
1 tablespoon wine vinegar
2 teaspoons sugar
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill or mint
freshly ground black pepper
60 g (2 oz) cream cheese, at room temperature
3 tablespoons sour cream
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 small clove garlic, crushed
sprigs fresh dill or mint to garnish

Sprinkle cucumber with salt and leave to drain in a colander for 20 minutes. Place vinegar, sugar, oil and chopped herbs in a screwtop jar and shake until emulsified. Season with salt and pepper. Beat cream cheese until soft, then gradually beat in sour cream, lemon juice, garlic, salt and pepper. Rinse cucumber and dry well. Toss with oil and vinegar dressing, and divide evenly among 4 individual serving plates. Spoon cream cheese mixture on top and garnish with a sprig of dill or mint. Serves 4.

CUMBERLAND SAUCE

This is an excellent fruity sauce served cold with hot or cold ham, lamb or game.

CUMBERLAND SAUCE

3 tablespoons redcurrant jelly
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 tablespoon orange marmalade
2 tablespoons port
1 teaspoon English mustard, or 2 teaspoons French mustard

Combine all ingredients in a bowl and mix together thoroughly. Makes ½ cup.

CUMIN

Spicy, aromatic seeds, used whole or ground, but, in common with most spices, cumin is best ground as needed to retain its peak. It is used to spice chicken, rice, lamb and vegetables such as eggplant in Middle Eastern and North African dishes, and it is an essential ingredient in most curry powders used throughout India.

Although cumin looks similar to aniseed and caraway seeds, its aroma is quite different, and you cannot substitute one for the other without changing the dish.

LAMB AND EGGPLANT STEW

An Iranian dish beautifully scented with cumin.

2 small eggplants
salt
4 tablespoons oil
1 large onion, sliced
750 g–1 kg (1½ –2 lb) lamb shoulder, boned and cubed
2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint, or 2 teaspoons dried
½ teaspoon white pepper
3 tomatoes, peeled and chopped
1 clove garlic, crushed
2 teaspoons ground cumin
chopped fresh mint to garnish
boiled rice to serve

Cut eggplant into small cubes, place in a colander, sprinkle with 1 tablespoon salt and leave for 1 hour to allow bitter juices to drain away. Dry on paper towels. Heat oil in a heavy pan and sauté onion until golden. Add lamb, mint, salt and pepper and fry until lamb is well browned, stirring frequently to brown on all sides. Remove lamb and onion from pan and keep warm. Add eggplant cubes to pan, cover and fry gently for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Return lamb and onion to pan and add tomatoes, garlic and cumin. Cover pan and simmer very gently for 1 hour or until lamb is very tender. Serve sprinkled with extra chopped mint and a dish of boiled rice. Serves 4–6.

CUMQUAT

The cumquat tree has small, decorative citrus fruits resembling tiny oranges. Cumquats are extremely bitter. They are delicious when preserved in a sugar syrup, sometimes with brandy added, or glazed in a syrup reduction.

Glacé Cumquats: Use about 12–18 fresh cumquats for this delicious recipe. Using a fine skewer, pierce skin of each cumquat about 8 times. Place in a bowl with cold water to cover and add 1 tablespoon salt. Leave overnight, then drain. Put into a pan with fresh water to cover, bring to the boil and simmer for about 30 minutes or until tender. Drain and place in a heavy syrup to cover (2 cups sugar to every 2½ cups water). Simmer cumquats in the syrup until they are clear and transparent. Put in a bowl and stand overnight. Next day, drain syrup into a saucepan, add ¼ cup sugar, bring to the boil and pour back over cumquats. Leave for 4 hours. Repeat this process once more, adding another ¼ cup sugar and leaving for a further 4 hours. Lastly, drain cumquats from syrup, roll in crystal sugar and place on a wire rack to dry, preferably in a very slow oven (120°C/250°F). Store in an airtight container in a cool place. Serve in small paper cases or use to flavour ice cream, decorate creamy desserts or serve with after-dinner coffee.

Cumquats in Brandy: See Brandy: Brandied Fruit.

CUP CAKE

See Cakes.

CURRANT

See Fruit, Dried and Candied.

CURRY

A good curry meal, with its accompaniments and bowls of steaming rice, is something we all look forward to. A curry meal may consist of meat, chicken or fish curry, several vegetables dishes, a lentil and a rice dish. Some curries are very rich, the palate being refreshed with yogurt or salad. Fiery curries are balanced by cooling, bland accompaniments. There should be a dry dish and a moist one, a rich dish and a light one. These dishes are all put on the table at the same time; each person then makes a selection to suit personal taste and palate.

A variety of accompaniments may be served with curry. They include cucumber or sliced banana, chutneys, pickles and fresh sambals. You might like to make Chapatis or Puris, the flat Indian breads that are used to scoop up the curry and its delicious gravy.

Curries are eaten with a spoon and fork. Each spoonful is mixed separately and should consist of rice, curry and different accompaniment. This way, the contrasting tastes and textures are appreciated and it is possible to adjust the hotness of the curries with the rice and the chutney.

Curry powder: This is probably the world’s earliest spice blend. In India housewives daily grind or bruise their curry spices on a ‘curry stone’, and throughout the world, curry enthusiasts are now blending their own spices.

Thanks to certain spices, all curry powders have a characteristic flavour. Turmeric, fenugreek, cumin, coriander and chilli are the basic spices. Beyond that curry powder may include allspice, cinnamon, cardamom, cloves, fennel and ginger; the various combinations and amounts determine the flavour of the curry.

If you prefer to rely on a favourite brand of curry powder or curry paste, you will know by experience it is better to purchase it in small amounts and use it as quickly as possible.

Ghee: Most curries start with the heating of cooking fat. Traditionally Indians prefer to use ghee, which is clarified butter, believing it is nutritious and gives a richer flavour to the food. Nowadays most people use oil because of the cholesterol factor. You can use the oil of your choice: sunflower, sesame, corn or mustard oil. Because spices and onions have to be fried for a while at the start, butter, unless clarified, has to be used with care as it turns brown very quickly. See also Butter.

SAMBALS AND ACCOMPANIMENTS

Accompaniments are an essential part of every curry meal. They are easy to make and provide intriguing contrasts in flavour and texture which are most enjoyable. Sambals can be red or white, that is heating or cooling. Red sambals are made by grinding together chillies with ingredients like onion, dried fish or grated coconut. When the amount of chillies is reduced, the sambal is white, or cooling.

Serve one or two of the following sambals, plus a few commercially made chutneys and nuts, with your choice of curried food.

Banana Sambal: Peel and slice bananas at the last moment and sprinkle with a little lemon juice.

Coconut Sambal: Blend ½ cup desiccated coconut with 1 tablespoon finely chopped onion, ¼ teaspoon chilli powder or a little finely chopped chilli, add salt and lemon juice to taste.

Cucumber Sambal: Dice or finely slice 1 peeled cucumber. If seeds are large, cut cucumber in 2 lengthways and remove seeds before slicing. Crush 1 clove garlic with a good pinch salt. Beat ½ cup plain yogurt with a fork, add cucumber and garlic. Blend well.

Fruit Sambal: Sour apples, firm plums, green mangoes or any firm fruit in season may be used. Cut fruit into small dice; mix with a little finely chopped red chilli, salt and lemon juice to taste.

Potato Sambal: Boil 2 medium potatoes, peel and cut into dice. Lightly mix with a little finely chopped green chilli and 2 tablespoons finely chopped onion, preferably golden shallots. Sprinkle over a little olive oil, add salt and lemon juice to taste.

Tomato Sambal: Combine 2 tomatoes, cut into thin slices, 1 finely sliced small onion and a little green chilli, finely chopped. Mix lightly with a squeeze of lemon juice and season with salt and freshly ground black pepper. A little desiccated coconut may be sprinkled over top.

Pappadams: These spicy lentil wafers are fried in about 1 cm (¾ in) hot oil for only 3–4 seconds. They increase in size and become crispy and golden.

Bombay Duck: This is actually fish, which is salted and dried. Fry in hot oil or grill until crisp. Crumble over curry.

See also Chapati; Dhal; Lassi; Puri.

CURRY POWDER

A simple recipe: use about 1 tablespoon for every 500 g (1 lb) meat, fish or poultry, substituting it for the spices or curry powder in a recipe.

cup cardamom seeds
6 large cinnamon sticks
1 tablespoon whole cloves
1½ tablespoons cumin seeds
large pinch each ground mace and nutmeg

Grind all ingredients in a blender or coffee grinder. Pass mixture through a sieve and store in an airtight jar, preferably in the refrigerator. Will keep fresh and aromatic for 4–5 weeks.

MADRAS-STYLE CURRY PASTE

Use about 1 tablespoon of this paste for each 500 g (1 lb) meat, fish or poultry, substituting it for garlic, ginger and spices in a recipe.

½ cup coriander seeds
2 tablespoons cumin seeds
1 teaspoon each black peppercorns, turmeric, black mustard seeds, chilli powder and salt
3 cloves garlic, peeled
1 piece fresh ginger (about walnut-size), grated
1 tablespoon vinegar
cup oil

Combine spices, garlic, ginger and vinegar in food processor or coffee grinder and grind until a paste, adding more vinegar if needed. Heat oil in small saucepan and when very hot add spice mixture. Reduce heat and cook gently, stirring, for a few minutes or until oil separates from spices. Cool and store in airtight jar in refrigerator.

RED CURRY PASTE

Red and green curry pastes are called for in many Thai recipes. Make a batch of each and store in airtight jars in the refrigerator. It lasts for months and a small amount may be added to soups or stews or other Asian dishes to give them a lift.

5 dried long red chillies, seeded and chopped
6 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
4 golden shallots, chopped
1 stalk lemongrass, finely sliced
2 cm (¾ in) piece of galangal, peeled and chopped
1 tablespoon coriander roots, chopped
½ tablespoons kaffir lime peel
1 teaspoon shrimp paste
1 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
1 teaspoon coriander seeds, roasted
½ teaspoon cumin seeds, roasted
1 teaspoon ground nutmeg
pinch salt
2 tablespoons peanuts, roasted and ground

In a food processor or blender, pureé the chillies with the garlic, golden shallots, lemongrass, galangal, coriander roots and lime peel. Add enough water to make a paste. Wrap the shrimp paste in foil and ‘roast’ in a dry frying pan over a moderate heat for several minutes, turning once, to release the aroma. Add to chilli mix with the pepper, coriander, cumin, nutmeg, salt and blend until combined, and then add the peanuts.

VARIATION

GREEN CURRY PASTE: Make as above but use fresh green chillies in place of red chillies. You may add some green chilli leaves, fresh coriander leaves or even English spinach to increase the green colour.

LAMB WITH CASHEW NUT CURRY (KORMA)

Masala sauce

3 dried red chillies, seeded
2.5 cm (1 in) piece fresh ginger, peeled and quartered
½ cup unsalted cashew nuts
¾ cup water
2 large cloves garlic
½ teaspoon cinnamon
½ teaspoon cardamom seeds
3 whole cloves
2½ teaspoons coriander seeds
1 teaspoon cumin seeds

Lamb

½ teaspoon saffron threads, crumbled
3 tablespoons boiling water
90 g (3 oz) ghee, or cup oil
2 medium onions, finely chopped
1½ teaspoons salt
½ cup plain yogurt
750 g (1½ lb) boned lamb shoulder, cubed
1½ tablespoons chopped fresh coriander
juice ½ lemon

To make masala sauce, purée chillies, ginger and cashew nuts in blender with water until smooth. Peel garlic cloves and add to cashew nut purée with remaining masala ingredients. Blend again until mixture is completely ground. Set aside. Soak saffron in boiling water for about 10 minutes. Heat ghee or oil and cook onions slowly for about 10 minutes or until soft and golden-brown. Stir in salt and masala, then add yogurt. Cook over a gentle heat, stirring, until ghee or oil covers the surface. Add lamb and saffron and stir gently. Cover and cook gently for about 20 minutes. Sprinkle 1 tablespoon coriander over lamb and continue cooking for 10 minutes or until lamb is tender. To serve, transfer to a heated serving dish and sprinkle top with lemon juice and remaining coriander. Serve with boiled rice and accompaniments. Serves 4–6.

PRAWN CURRY

500 g (1 lb) shelled green prawns, or 1 kg (2 lb) whole green prawns
30 g (1 oz) ghee or butter
10 curry leaves
1 large onion, finely chopped
3 cloves garlic, crushed
5 cm (2 in) piece fresh ginger, peeled and grated
2 tablespoons curry powder or paste
½ –1 red chilli, seeded and chopped
1 cup coconut milk
2 teaspoons ground rice
1 cinnamon stick
juice 1 lemon
1 teaspoon salt

De-vein prawns (shell and de-vein whole prawns). Heat ghee or butter in pan, add curry leaves, onion, garlic and ginger and fry over gentle heat until golden. Add curry powder and chilli, and fry for 1 minute. Stir in coconut milk, ground rice (mixed with a little coconut milk), cinnamon, lemon juice and salt. Cover and simmer gently for 15 minutes. Add prawns, stir well, then cover and simmer gently for 10 minutes. Serves 4.

NOTE: If using cooked prawns, it is only necessary to heat gently, for about 5 minutes.

VARIATION

CHICKEN CURRY: Prepare as for Prawn Curry but use 750 g (1½ lb) chicken fillets, each fillet cut into 3, in place of prawns. Add to curry sauce and simmer gently for 20 minutes or until tender.

LAMB ALMOND CURRY

Many good curries are cooked by this method of gently braising the meat and spices, adding more water as the meat browns and cooks. The result is tender, excellent meat with a rich brown gravy.

3 tablespoons ghee or oil
2 medium onions, finely sliced
1 kg (2 lb) boneless lamb, cut into large cubes
1 tablespoon finely sliced fresh ginger
4–5 cardamom pods
2 teaspoons salt
2–3 red chillies, seeded and ground to a paste
2 bay leaves
4 cloves garlic, chopped
1 onion, finely chopped
1–1½ cups hot water
1 cup plain yogurt
12 almonds, blanched and halved

Heat ghee or oil in a heavy saucepan and sauté sliced onions until tender. Add meat, ginger, cardamom, salt, ground chilli paste, bay leaves and half the garlic. Cook, stirring, for 10 minutes. Add chopped onion and remaining garlic. Cover and when simmering add some of the hot water. Stir and cover again. When simmering again add more water. Repeat process 3 or 4 times. Add 2 tablespoons yogurt and more hot water and cook until meat is tender, adding more hot water when necessary. Add remaining yogurt and blanched almonds. Simmer for 5–7 minutes or until gravy is well blended and rich golden-brown. Serve with boiled rice and a few accompaniments as liked. Serves 4–6.

FISH CURRY WITH TOMATO

500 g (1 lb) fish steaks
2 tablespoons ghee or butter
1 onion, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, crushed
2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint or coriander
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
½ teaspoon chilli power
1 tomato, chopped
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
juice ½ lemon

Cut fish into serving pieces. Heat ghee or butter in a heavy saucepan and fry onion and garlic over low heat until translucent. Mix in mint or coriander, cumin, turmeric and chilli powder, and stir for 2 minutes. Add tomato, salt and pepper, and cook until tomato becomes soft and pulpy. Add lemon juice and fish pieces, and spoon sauce over fish. Cover pan and simmer gently for 10 minutes or until fish flakes easily when tested with a fine skewer. Serve with boiled rice and lemon wedges. Serves 4.

MEMSAHIB’S LAMB CURRY

An English-style curry quickly made with lamb left over from the weekend roast. Serve it with simple accompaniments from the store cupboard such as sultanas, chutneys, coconut and cashew nuts or try grated apple moistened with Mint Sauce.

60 g (2 oz) butter
2 onions, finely chopped
1 cup diced celery
1 clove garlic, crushed
1–2 tablespoons curry power
2 teaspoons flour
2 cups chicken stock
1 green apple, peeled and diced
2 cups diced cooked lamb

Melt butter in frying pan and sauté onions, celery and garlic until soft. Stir in curry powder and flour and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in stock. Bring to the boil, add apple and lamb and simmer, covered, for 30 minutes. Serves 4.

VEGETABLE CURRY

½ cup oil or melted ghee
1 teaspoon mustard seeds
6–8 curry leaves (optional)
1 teaspoon turmeric
2 cloves garlic, crushed
2 cm (¾ in) piece fresh ginger, peeled and grated
½ red chilli, seeded and chopped
½ cauliflower, broken into florets
1 carrot, sliced
250 g (8 oz) green beans, strung and chopped
1 cup shelled fresh peas
salt

Heat oil in large saucepan, add mustard seeds, curry leaves, turmeric, garlic, ginger and chilli and fry for 1–2 minutes. Add vegetables and fry over a medium heat, stirring, for 10–12 minutes or until vegetables are almost tender but still a little crisp. Add salt, cover and simmer for 2–3 minutes. Serve at once. Serves 4.

NOTE: You may vary the vegetables for this dish, using diced potato, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, silver-beet leaves, green peppers, spinach, etc.

CHICKEN CURRY

2 medium onions, finely chopped
1 clove garlic, crushed
2 cm (1 in) piece fresh ginger, peeled and grated
60 g (2 oz) ghee, or ¼ cup oil
1 tablespoon curry powder
2 large tomatoes, peeled, seeded and diced
2 teaspoons paprika
2 whole cloves
8 cm (3 in) cinnamon stick
2 cups coconut milk
2 teaspoons salt
2 green peppers, seeded and shredded
1 × 1.5 kg (3 lb) chicken
2 tablespoons cream
1 tablespoon chopped fresh mint

Cook onions, garlic and ginger gently in hot ghee or oil until beginning to turn golden. Add curry powder and cook for 3–4 minutes. Add tomatoes, paprika, cloves, cinnamon, coconut milk, salt and green peppers. Simmer, covered, for about 15 minutes, then add chicken, cut into serving pieces, and simmer 30–40 minutes, until chicken is tender. Add cream and fresh, chopped mint. Heat curry through and serve with boiled rice and accompaniments. Serves 4.

BURMA BEEF CURRY

1 medium onion, finely chopped
1 clove garlic, crushed
30 g (1 oz) butter or ghee
1 tablespoon curry powder
2 ripe tomatoes, peeled and diced
500 g (1 lb) stewing steak, cubed
½ cup milk
2 teaspoons lemon juice
salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 teaspoons sugar

Fry onion with garlic in butter or ghee for 3–4 minutes. Add curry powder and fry for a further 2 minutes. Add tomatoes and meat with just enough water to barely cover meat. Simmer very gently for about 1½ hours or until meat is tender. Stir in milk and lemon juice, season to taste and add sugar. Serve with boiled rice and accompaniments (p.136).Serves 4.

PORK VINDALOO

1 kg (2 lb) pork
1½ cups boiling water
¼ cup tamarind pulp
¼ cup mustard oil
12 whole peppercorns
2–3 bay leaves

Marinade

3 large cloves garlic, crushed
1 tablespoon ground ginger
1 teaspoon ground chilli
1 tablespoon curry powder
½ teaspoon ground cloves
½ teaspoon ground cardamom
1 teaspoon cinnamon
½ teaspoon salt
½ cup malt vinegar

Combine all the ingredients for the marinade in a bowl. Cut the pork into large cubes and add to the marinade. Leave for 18–24 hours. Pour the boiling water over tamarind pulp and cool. When cold, push through a sieve and reserve the liquid. Heat the oil in a frying pan, add the meat, marinade, peppercorns, bay leaves and tamarind juice. Simmer gently for 2 hours or until meat is tender. Serves 4.

SINGARAS

500 g (1 lb) potatoes
2 teaspoons curry power
2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1 teaspoon fennel seeds
½ teaspoon black mustard seeds
30 g (1 oz) ghee or butter
4 cups flour
1¼ cups water
oil for deep-frying

Boil potatoes in their skins and when cooked, but still firm, peel and cut into 6 mm (¼ in) dice. Sprinkle curry power, salt and seeds evenly over and mix lightly. Rub soft ghee or butter into flour. Make a well in the centre, then add all the water at once to make a soft dough. Knead well until smooth and elastic. Divide into 32 pieces and roll each into a ball. Roll out each one thinly on a floured board, with a lightly floured rolling pin, to a circle about 10 cm (4 in) across. Cut each circle in 2 with a sharp knife. Moisten edges of each half-circle and put a spoonful of potato mixture on each. Fold over and press edges well together. From each circle, you will get 2 triangular-shaped pastries. When all are made, fry in deep hot oil until puffed and golden. Drain on paper towels. Serve hot or cold. Makes 64.

CUSTARD

Whether or not a custard is a simple, baked one flavoured with nutmeg or an elegant Crème Brûlée with soft cream covered with a brittle crust of burnt sugar, the custard base is milk and/or cream and eggs or egg yolks. Gentle cooking is essential to ensure the perfect smoothness of texture necessary for any custard.

There are two basic kinds of custard: stirred custard, cooked on top of the stove, and baked custard, cooked in the oven. Once these have been mastered a great many variations can be made, such as Crème Pâtissière which is used to fill French tarts, tartlets, éclairs and profiteroles, or such classic custards as Crème Caramel or Petits Pots de Crème.

BAKED CUSTARD

2 cups milk
2 eggs
1 egg yolk
2 tablespoons sugar
pinch salt
½ teaspoon vanilla essence or nutmeg

Heat milk in heavy saucepan over low heat. Mix together eggs, egg yolk, sugar, salt and vanilla or nutmeg. Mix well, but do not beat. When small bubbles appear around edge of milk pan, pour about one-third into egg mixture and mix until well blended. Add this mixture to remaining milk and mix again. Put 6 buttered custard cups or 1 large buttered ovenproof dish in a baking tin and fill with strained custard. Carefully pour hot water into baking tin to come halfway up sides of cups or dish. Bake in a preheated moderately slow oven (160°C/325°F) for 30 minutes or until a knife inserted in centre of custard comes out clean. Remove custard cups or large dish from water. Cool. Serves 6.

STIRRED CUSTARD

This is the simple custard sauce that accompanies many English steamed puddings and poached fruit.

1 cup milk
1 teaspoon cornflour
1 egg
1 tablespoon sugar
vanilla essence to taste

Heat most of the milk in the top of a double saucepan. Blend cornflour with remaining cold milk. Blend in a little of the hot milk, then return to saucepan and cook for 1 minute. Allow to cool. Add egg and sugar beaten together. Stand pan over boiling water and cook, stirring until custard coats spoon. Stir in vanilla. Makes 1 cup.

CRÈME ANGLAISE

This is the rich custard sauce, velvety and smooth, created in England and adopted by France.

½ cup sugar
4 large or 5 small egg yolks
1 teaspoon cornflour
2 cups milk
1 vanilla bean

Beat sugar into egg yolks gradually and continue to beat for 2–3 minutes until pale yellow. Beat in cornflour, then gradually stir in milk, scalded with vanilla bean. Pour mixture into top part of double saucepan, place over hot water and stir slowly and continuously until custard thickens sufficiently to coat back of spoon. Keep custard well under simmering point. Remove from heat and stir for 1–2 minutes to cool slightly. Strain. Serve warm or cold. If serving cold, cover surface with damp greaseproof paper to prevent skin forming on top, and chill. Serves 6–8.

CRÈME BRÛLÉE

Make as for Crème Anglaise, using only ¼ cup sugar and substituting cream for milk. Pour into 4 individual or 1 larger serving dish and chill well. Just before serving, stand custard in shallow baking dish surrounded with ice to keep custard chilled. Sprinkle white or brown sugar in a 3 mm ( in) layer over top and put under preheated grill until sugar melts and forms a toffee glaze. Serve immediately. Serves 4.

PETITS POTS DE CRÈME

These rich custard creams can be flavoured with vanilla, coffee or chocolate. Offer a choice of flavours or make all the pots de crème in one flavour.

2½ cups milk
1 vanilla bean, or ½ teaspoon vanilla essence
¼ cup caster sugar
4 egg yolks
1 whole egg
1 teaspoon instant coffee powder
1 tablespoon warm water
30–45 g (1–1½ oz) cooking chocolate, chopped

Scald milk with vanilla bean and sugar. Remove bean. Lightly beat egg yolks with whole egg. Add milk and vanilla essence if vanilla bean is not being used. Strain custard and divide into 3 equal parts. Flavour one part with coffee dissolved in the warm water; one with chocolate melted on a plate over hot water; and leave the third plain. Pour carefully into 9–10 little pots. Stand these in a shallow baking dish and half fill tin with hot water to surround pots. Cover pots and bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for 12–20 minutes or until set depending on your oven and thickness of pots. Cool and serve with crisp dessert biscuits. Serves 6.

OEUFS À LA NEIGE

This classic of the custard world is sometimes mistaken for the French dessert île flottante (floating island).

2½ cups milk
1 vanilla bean
1 tablespoon sugar or vanilla sugar
1 quantity Crème Anglaise
2 tablespoons slivered, toasted almonds, to decorate

Meringue

4 egg whites
1 cup caster sugar

To make meringue, whisk egg whites until peaks form. Gradually beat in sugar 1 tablespoon at a time until stiff peaks form and hold their shape.

Put milk, vanilla bean and sugar into shallow pan and bring to simmering point. Poach tablespoons of meringue in the milk, turning to cook evenly, for 3–5 minutes or until set. Lift out carefully with slotted spoon, drain and put on top of custard (crème anglaise) in a glass or china bowl. Serve decorated with almonds. Serves 6–8.

NOTE: The milk in which meringues were poached can be used for custard or sweet sauce.

CRÈME CARAMEL

Caramel

½ cup water
1 cup sugar

Custard

1 cup cream
1 cup milk
½ teaspoon vanilla essence
3 whole eggs
2 egg yolks
½ cup sugar

To make caramel, put water and sugar in a small saucepan over low heat and stir until sugar dissolves. Boil, without stirring, until golden-brown. Pour into 6 individual ½ -cup moulds, turning moulds to coat bottom and sides.

To make custard, warm cream and milk together, remove from heat and add vanilla. Beat whole eggs, egg yolks and sugar, and stir into warmed cream and milk. Strain, then pour into prepared moulds. Set in a baking tin of hot water and bake in a preheated moderately slow oven (160°C/325°F) for 25 minutes or until custard is set and a knife inserted in centre comes out clean. Cool and chill overnight. Unmould onto serving plates. Serves 6.

ÎLE FLOTTANTE AUX PRALINE (FLOATING ISLAND)

This classic dish with its ‘island’ of baked, toffee-coated meringue in a lake of rich custard is one of the greats of the dessert world.

½ cup sugar
2 tablespoons water
pinch cream of tartar
cup crushed Praline
1 quantity of Crème Anglaise, very well chilled

Meringue

4 egg whites
pinch cream of tartar
pinch salt
cup caster sugar
½ teaspoon vanilla essence

In a heavy saucepan combine sugar, water and cream of tartar. Heat gently, stirring, until sugar has dissolved. Wash sugar crystals frequently from sides of pan with a brush dipped in water. Cook over moderate heat, without stirring, until the mixture caramelises and turns a deep golden-brown. Pour caramel carefully into a 4-cup ovenproof mould, tilting it to coat bottom and sides. Set aside.

For the meringue, whisk egg whites with cream of tartar and salt until they form soft peaks. Beat in sugar, a little at a time, and vanilla, and continue beating until mixture holds stiff glossy peaks.

Spoon half meringue into caramel-lined mould, sprinkle with crushed praline and spoon in remaining meringue. Smooth top with a spatula. Place the mould in a baking tin and add enough hot water to reach halfway up sides of mould. Bake in centre of a preheated cool oven (140°C/275°F) for 40 minutes or until a skewer inserted in the centre comes out clean. Invert meringue onto a serving dish, surround with crème anglaise and serve remaining crème anglaise separately. Serves 4.

MAPLE SYRUP CUSTARD

Creamy custard with a subtle maple flavour, baked in individual pots or one large dish.

4 eggs
2 cups milk
½ cup maple syrup
pinch salt
whipped cream and maple syrup to serve

Beat eggs, then add milk, maple syrup and salt and combine well. Pour into 6 buttered custard cups or a buttered 4-cup casserole. Set container in a baking tin with enough warm water to come halfway up sides of container. Bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for about 30 minutes for individual cups, or 45–50 minutes for larger dish, or until set. Serve warm, with cream and a drizzle of maple syrup. Serves 6.

CUSTARD APPLE

The fleshy, round or heart-shaped fruit of the Anona tree, found in the tropics. The fruit is cut open and the creamy white flesh is spooned out of the knobbly green shell. The flesh is soft, sweet, aromatic and custard-flavoured; the shiny black seeds should be discarded.

CUTTLEFISH

A saltwater mollusc, closely related to squid. Like squid, the eyes, long central bone, sac of ink and yellowish deposit under the head must be removed. More tender than octopus and squid, cuttlefish can be cooked in the same way as squid.

See Squid.