BRANDY ALEXANDER PIE

3 teaspoons powdered gelatine
½ cup cold water
cup sugar
teaspoon salt
3 eggs, separated
¼ cup brandy
¼ cup crème de cacao
2 cups cream, whipped
chocolate curls to decorate

Crumb crust

1¼ cups sweet biscuit crumbs (Nice are ideal)
¼ cup sugar
75 g (2½ oz) butter, melted

Soften gelatine in cold water in a saucepan. Add half of the sugar, the salt and egg yolks. Stir to blend. Heat over low heat, stirring, until gelatine dissolves and mixture thickens. Do not boil. Remove from heat and stir in brandy and crème de cacao. Chill until mixture starts to thicken slightly.

To make crumb crust, combine all ingredients and press evenly over bottom and sides of 23 cm (9 in) pie plate. Chill until ready to use. Beat egg whites until stiff. Gradually beat in remaining sugar and fold into the thickened mixture. Fold in half of the whipped cream. Tip into chilled crust and chill for several hours or overnight. Decorate with remaining cream and chocolate curls. Serves 6–8.

PIGEON

A small game bird with a distinctive, almost sweet flavour, which is highlighted by a tangy, sweet-sour sauce. If young and tender, pigeon may be roasted, with a slice of bacon or pork fat or a lump of butter to keep it moist. Alternatively, and especially if it is older, pigeon may be braised or stewed.

Young fledgling pigeons, bred especially for the table, are called squab. They have a more delicate, tender flesh and are better suited to roasting in a very hot oven.

In general, allow one squab or one pigeon per person. If pigeon breasts only are offered, allow 3–4 breasts per person.

PIKELET

The Australian version of an old Scottish scone or ‘girdle’ cake, which is a popular item on the afternoon tea tray. Pikelets can be served warm or cold with butter and honey or jam, or cold with jam and cream. Pikelets can be reheated briefly in a warm oven or under a slow grill.

PIKELETS

1 cup self-raising flour
½ teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons sugar
1 egg
1 cup milk
30 g (1 oz) butter, melted
fat for frying

Sift flour and salt into a bowl. Stir in sugar and make a well in centre. Beat egg, add milk and butter and mix well. Pour into well in dry ingredients all at once and stir to make a smooth batter. Drop scant tablespoons of batter onto a hot, greased griddle or shallow frying pan. Cook until golden, then turn and cook other side until golden. Cool, wrapped in a clean tea-towel or napkin. Serve warm with butter or cold with jam and cream. Makes 25–30 × 8 cm (3 in) pikelets.

PILAF (PILAU, PILAW)

See Rice.

PIMENTO

See Allspice.

PIMIENTO

Skinned sweet red peppers of a small, elongated variety, available canned in oil or brine. They add bright colour and Mediterranean flavour to salads, and are invaluable drained and cut into strips or other shapes for garnishing.

POTATO, PRAWN AND PIMIENTO SALAD

A salad to serve as part of hors d’oeuvre variés or on an antipasto tray.

3 canned pimientos, drained
4 medium waxy potatoes, cooked and diced
3 hard-boiled eggs, cut into wedges
125 g (4 oz) small cooked prawns, shelled and de-veined
1 tablespoon finely chopped onion
salt and freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup Vinaigrette Dressing
cup Mayonnaise

Cut 2 pimientos into squares and reserve the third. Lightly fold together all ingredients, except reserved pimiento and 8–10 prawns. Spoon into a shallow square or oblong dish. Cut reserved pimiento into strips and garnish salad with pimiento strips arranged lattice-fashion, with a prawn in each space. Serves 4–6.

PINEAPPLE

A year-round favourite, doubly welcome in the cold winter months, when its golden sweetness reminds us that sunnier days are not too far away.

Pineapples are grown in tropical and subtropical climates, and with modern agricultural techniques, fresh pineapples are available at any time of the year. There is also the convenience of canned pineapple – in rings or chunks, crushed or as juice.

Fresh pineapple contains an enzyme, bromeline, similar to the papain found in pawpaw, which acts on protein. For this reason, fresh pineapple can never be used in any preparation containing gelatine or fresh cream. However, the enzyme is destroyed by heat and is not present in canned pineapple, which is an ideal base for many desserts.

Fresh pineapple is best served simply, at the end of a rich meal or at breakfast. If fully ripe, it will need very little, if any, sugar. A ripe pineapple should be golden, with a rich sweet perfume and firm yet tender flesh. The green plumes should pull out easily.

Fresh or canned pineapple may also be added to a salad. And rings of pineapple, lightly fried in butter, are a good flavour contrast to hot baked ham, ham steaks or grilled pork chops.

Basic preparation: To peel a fresh pineapple, using a sharp stainless-steel knife, cut off top and base of pineapple. Hold pineapple firmly with one hand and cut downwards, between eyes, at an angle of 45 degrees in a spiral pattern. Remove strips of skin between eyes. This method eliminates waste and also gives the pineapple an attractive appearance.

PINEAPPLE BUTTERMILK SHERBET

2 cups buttermilk
½ cup sugar
1 cup canned crushed pineapple
1 egg white
1½ teaspoons vanilla essence

Combine buttermilk, sugar and pineapple. Chill in freezer until mushy. Place in a chilled bowl. Add egg white and vanilla and beat mixture until light and fluffy. Pour into ice cream tray and freeze until firm, stirring occasionally. Serves 4.

PINEAPPLE IN KIRSCH

Kirsch and pineapple make a classic combination.

1 ripe pineapple, peeled
sugar
2 tablespoons Kirsch

Cut pineapple into quarters lengthways and remove core from each wedge. Cut each wedge into halves or quarters as desired. Arrange on dish, sprinkle with sugar to taste and Kirsch. Chill before serving. Serves 4–6.

VARIATIONS

Other fruits may be added to Pineapple in Kirsch – try strawberries, orange or mandarin segments, fresh grapes, passionfruit and kiwi fruit. Cointreau may be substituted for Kirsch. If warmed and poured over the pineapple just before serving, it may be flamed for presentation.

PINEAPPLE CARIBBEAN

1 small ripe pineapple, peeled
2 tablespoons brown sugar
grated rind 1 orange
pinch cinnamon
pinch nutmeg
½ cup fresh orange juice
30 g (1 oz) butter
4 tablespoons rum
cream or ice cream to serve

Cut pineapple into quarters lengthways and remove core from each wedge. Cut each wedge into slices. Arrange slices in buttered ovenproof dish. Mix brown sugar, orange rind and spices, sprinkle over pineapple then pour over juice. Dot with butter. Bake in preheated hot oven (200°C/400°F) for about 15 minutes. Warm rum, ignite and pour flaming over pineapple at table. Serve with cream or ice cream. Serves 4–6.

VARIATION

A medium can pineapple rings, drained, may be substituted for fresh.

CHAFING DISH PINEAPPLE

1 ripe pineapple, peeled, cored and diced
125 g (4 oz) butter
1½ tablespoons brown sugar
cup rum
1 cup cream

Cook pineapple pieces in butter until golden-brown. Sprinkle with sugar and rum and continue cooking until liquid is absorbed. Add cream, heat through and serve immediately. Serves 4–6.

PINEAPPLE WHIP

1 tablespoon powdered gelatine
¼ cup cold water
1 medium can pineapple chunks
1 tablespoon grated orange rind
½ cup plain yogurt
1 tablespoon honey

Soften gelatine in cold water in small saucepan for 5 minutes, then dissolve over gentle heat. Drain juice from pineapple, add enough water to juice to make 1½ cups, then stir in dissolved gelatine. Chill to the consistency of unbeaten egg white. Add orange rind, yogurt and honey and beat until thick. Fold in pineapple. Turn into bowl and chill until set. Serves 6–8.

PINEAPPLE UPSIDE-DOWN CAKE

Serve this dessert cake hot with ice cream, egg custard or a sweet sauce.

Caramel

75 g (2½ oz) butter
cup firmly packed brown sugar

Decoration

3 rings canned pineapple
6 glacé cherries
6 walnut halves

Cake

1½ cups self-raising flour
½ teaspoon salt
60 g (2 oz) butter
¾ cup caster sugar
1 egg, well whisked
½ cup milk

To make caramel, cream butter with sugar. Spread over bottom and sides of a greased and lined 20 cm (8 in) round cake tin.

To make decoration, halve pineapple rings to make 6 thin rings; arrange these on caramel and decorate with cherries and walnuts.

To make cake, sift flour and salt together 3 times. Cream butter with sugar, then beat in egg until light and fluffy. Stir in sifted flour alternately with milk. Spoon cake mixture carefully on top of the pineapple arrangement in the tin. Bake in preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for 50–60 minutes. Invert onto serving plate immediately cake is removed from oven. Leave for a few minutes then remove tin. Serves 6–8.

PINE NUT

The kernel from the cone of certain types of pine tree, some of which are very common in Mediterranean countries. Naturally, pine nuts often feature in traditional dishes of this region.

In Italy, pine nuts (called pignoli) go into the famous sauce Pesto alla Genovese. In Nice, France, a sweet tart is made with silverbeet, apples, pine nuts and sultanas. Often, a decorative pattern of pine nuts will stud Lebanese kibbi, or toasted pine nuts will be used to garnish a rice pilaf or rice salad. Roasted and salted, pine nuts can be substituted for salted almonds.

Although they are more commonly used in savoury dishes, pine nuts are also made into macaroon-type biscuits and sweets.

PINE NUT SAUCE FOR FISH

60 g (2 oz) butter
½ cup pine nuts, sliced
2 tablespoons lemon juice

Melt butter over low heat. Add pine nuts and cook gently for 5 minutes or until the butter is slightly browned. Add lemon juice and heat. Pour over grilled or pan-fried fish fillets. Makes about ¾ cup, sufficient for 4 fillets.

SPINACH WITH SULTANAS AND PINE NUTS

1 bunch fresh spinach
2 tablespoons olive oil
salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ cup sultanas
60 g (2 oz) butter
¾ cup pine nuts

Remove stalks and rinse spinach leaves. Pat leaves as dry as possible, then slice into fine shreds. Heat oil in large frying pan. Add spinach, salt and pepper and toss over heat until spinach starts to give out juices. Add sultanas and continue cooking over moderate heat until spinach is tender and juices have evaporated, turning and tossing often. In separate pan, heat butter and cook pine nuts until golden. Add to spinach and serve at once. Serves 4.

PIPÉRADE

This open-faced omelette is a specialty of the Basque country. It is quick to make if the pipérade mixture (onions, peppers, tomatoes) is made ahead. It makes a lovely lunch dish.

PIPÉRADE

2 tablespoons oil
2 onions, finely sliced
1 red or green pepper, cored, seeded and cut into thin strips
1 clove garlic, crushed
2–3 tomatoes, peeled, seeded and sliced
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon butter
8 eggs
2–3 slices cooked ham, cut into strips
2–3 tablespoons chopped parsley

Heat oil in a frying pan and cook onions and pepper gently, covered, until they are tender but not browned. Add garlic and tomatoes, and cook gently for about 5 minutes longer. Season with salt and pepper. Remove from pan and keep hot. In the frying pan heat butter. Beat eggs with ¼ teaspoon salt and pepper and add to pan. Cook rapidly, stirring with a fork, to a creamy mass. Remove from pan and top with vegetable mixture, mixing a bit of it delicately into the eggs. Heat strips of ham in frying pan and strew over pipérade. Sprinkle with parsley. Serves 4.

PIROSHKI (PIROZHKI)

Some say that the Russians were the first to think of the delicious tidbits served with cocktails. We know for a fact that they did invent piroshki, the little pies that now appear in all shapes and sizes all over the world.

Piroshki, made into tiny cocktail sizes, served piping hot from the oven, make wonderful accompaniments to clear chicken or beef soups, or to drinks, or may be served all on their own as a first course. Allow at least 3 or 4 for each person, although you may need more.

There are several versions and many varied fillings. Piroshki may be made with yeast dough, or shortcrust, cream cheese or choux pastry, and filled with smoked pork and onion, vegetables, cream cheese or fish. Fried piroshki are a great favourite in Europe, and are mostly filled with meat or cabbage.

Piroshki are best served fresh but may be made ahead and reheated in a moderate oven for 10 minutes.

Piroshki also freeze well and, once thawed, need just 20 minutes’ reheating, wrapped in foil, in a moderate oven before serving.

PIROSHKI WITH CREAM CHEESE PASTRY

Pastry

125 g (4 oz) cream cheese
125 g (4 oz) butter
1½ cups flour
beaten egg to glaze

Filling

60 g (2 oz) butter
1 onion, chopped
2–3 rashers bacon, or 90 g (3 oz) speck, rind removed, chopped
salt and freshly ground black pepper

To make pastry, beat cream cheese with butter in a mixing bowl. Add sifted flour and mix to a dough. Wrap in greaseproof paper and chill overnight or for several hours. (If left overnight, allow pastry to stand at room temperature for 1 hour or so before rolling out.)

To make filling, melt butter in a frying pan and fry onion and bacon or speck until onion is transparent and bacon is crisp. Season with salt and pepper. Roll out pastry dough thinly and cut into 5 cm (2 in) rounds with a pastry cutter. Put 1 teaspoonful of filling onto each round, moisten edges with a little beaten egg and fold dough over to form a crescent shape. Seal edges well. Place on baking trays. Brush with beaten egg and bake in a preheated hot oven (200°C/400°F) for 10 minutes or until golden-brown. Makes about 24.

PIROSHKI WITH YEAST DOUGH

Yeast dough

30 g (1 oz) compressed yeast
2½ tablespoons sugar
3 cups flour
1¼ cups milk
125 g (4 oz) butter
2 teaspoons salt
1 egg yolk, beaten
beaten egg to glaze

Filling

3 large onions, finely chopped
60 g (2 oz) butter
250 g (8 oz) speck, or thick rasher bacon, rind removed, finely chopped
freshly ground white pepper

Combine yeast with ½ tablespoon sugar in a small bowl. Stir until yeast becomes liquid. Sprinkle with 1 teaspoon flour and leave in a warm place for about 20 minutes. Meanwhile, heat milk, butter, salt and remaining sugar in a saucepan, stirring occasionally until milk is lukewarm. Sift remaining flour into a large mixing bowl. Make a well in centre and pour in milk mixture, yeast mixture and egg yolk. Stir with a wooden spoon, gradually incorporating flour. Beat dough with your hand for 3 minutes until it is smooth and elastic. Sprinkle with a little flour, cover with damp tea-towel and leave dough to rise in a warm place for about 1 hour or until dough has doubled in bulk.

To make filling, fry onions in butter until golden. Allow to cool. Mix the speck or bacon with onion and season with pepper.

Turn dough onto a floured work surface and knead lightly. This is a soft dough. Tear off pieces of dough the size of a large tablespoon. Place 1 teaspoon of filling in middle of each piece of dough, fold over to enclose filling and mould dough into little balls.

Place piroshki on lightly greased baking trays and leave to rise in warm place for 15 minutes. Brush with beaten egg and bake in a preheated very hot oven (230°C/450°F) for 10–15 minutes or until golden. Slide onto a clean tea-towel to keep warm. Makes 60 tiny cocktail, or 30 larger, piroshki.

NOTE: If using dry yeast, see Yeast Cookery.

FRIED PIROSHKI

These dainty fried pastries are made to accompany soups in Russia. They have fillings appropriate to the soup they accompany – tiny bacon cubes, minced fish or meat, mushrooms, hard-boiled eggs, cheese or cabbage. They may be made larger and enjoyed as a large snack or for lunch.

Yeast dough

15 g (½ oz) compressed yeast
¼ cup lukewarm water
½ teaspoon sugar
½ cup milk
15 g (½ oz) butter
1 tablespoon sour cream
2 cups flour
½ teaspoon salt
1 egg, beaten
oil for deep-frying

Filling

1 medium onion, finely chopped
1 tablespoon oil
250 g (8 oz) minced steak
250 g (8 oz) mixed minced pork and veal
2 hard-boiled eggs, chopped
15 g (½ oz) butter
2 tablespoons chicken stock or water
1 teaspoon salt
freshly ground black pepper

Combine compressed yeast, water and sugar in a small bowl. Stir and set aside. Place milk, butter and sour cream in saucepan and heat until just warm, stirring occasionally. Sift flour and salt into a large mixing bowl and make a well in centre. Pour in yeast and milk mixtures and beaten egg. Stir with a wooden spoon, gradually incorporating flour. Remove from bowl and knead lightly on a floured work surface. Place dough back in bowl, sprinkle with a little flour, cover and leave to rise in a warm place for about 1 hour or until doubled in bulk.

To make filling, cook onion in oil until soft; remove to a bowl. Lightly fry meat until brown and crumbly. Combine with onions, hard-boiled eggs, butter, stock, salt and pepper. Leave to cool.

Turn dough onto a floured work surface and knead lightly. Roll out thinly and cut into rounds with an 8 cm (3 in) cutter. Place 2 teaspoons of the filling in centre of each round and fold over to enclose filling and mould into oval shapes. Stand on a baking tray and keep covered with a clean tea-towel. As soon as all the piroshki have been filled and shaped, deep-fry in batches in hot oil until golden-brown. Drain on paper towels. Serve hot. Makes about 30.

NOTE: If using dry yeast, see Yeast Cookery.

PISSALADIÈRE

A wonderful warm, savoury open tart from the south of France. It is often sold in market places where it can be bought, sliced and still hot, with onions, herbs, anchovies and black olives, spread over pastry or bread dough – an irresistable combination that can easily be prepared at home.

PISSALADIÈRE NIÇOISE

1 × 20 cm (8 in) Plain Shortcrust Pastry flan case, baked blind
6–8 medium onions, sliced
4 tablespoons oil
1 bouquet garni
salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 cloves garlic, crushed
12–16 anchovy fillets
8–10 black olives

Put flan case on a baking tray. Cook onions gently in 3 tablespoons oil, with bouquet garni, salt and pepper, for about 45 minutes. The onions should almost melt and become a rich golden colour. Stir in garlic after 20 minutes. Transfer onion mixture to pastry case, discarding bouquet garni, and make a lattice pattern on top with anchovies and olives. Sprinkle remaining oil on top and bake pissaladière in a preheated hot oven (200°C/400°F) for about 15 minutes or until very hot. If pissaladière is to be a lunch or supper dish, serve with a bowl of tossed green salad. Serves 4–6.

NOTE: The pissaladière can be made using Pizza Dough instead of shortcrust pastry if you wish. In this case use a pizza tray and form the dough as for a pizza.

PISTACHIO NUT

Throughout the Middle East you will find street vendors with snacks of salted pistachio nuts. Greek and Lebanese delicatessens in other countries stock them, and often the unsalted nuts as well.

The pistachio needs a hot climate for the small nuts to ripen properly. When ripe, the shells crack open spontaneously. The nuts are usually salted in the shell. The small, pale green kernels have a unique flavour which is equally appropriate in sweet and savoury dishes. For example, pistachio nuts are often added to a terrine or to pork sausages or tossed in butter to garnish a pilaf, while pistachio ice cream is very popular in France and Italy, and chopped pistachios may be included in the filling for Baklava. The favourite confections of the Middle East, halva and Turkish delight, often include pistachios, especially the luxury versions. Chopped or sliced, shelled pistachios add an attractive touch if used to decorate desserts, ices and cakes.

PISTOU

The Provençal name for basil and, by extension, also the name of the typical soup of Provence in southern France – soupe au pistou – in which basil is an essential ingredient. This soup is rather similar to the Italian minestrone, with its combination of vegetables and pasta. The basil enrichment added at the end is not too distant from the sauce Pesto alla Genovese – which is not really surprising, given the proximity of Provence and Italy and their respective histories.

SOUPE AU PISTOU

2 large onions, chopped
½ –1 cup plus 2 tablespoons olive oil
1 cup dried white beans, soaked overnight and drained
500 g (1 lb) green beans, cut into short lengths
500 g (1 lb) zucchini, diced
2 large tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped
3 potatoes, diced
8 cups water
salt and freshly ground black pepper
200 g (7 oz) vermicelli
5 cloves garlic
about 1 cup fresh basil leaves, loosely packed
5 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese
extra grated Parmesan cheese to serve (optional)

Cook onions in 2 tablespoons oil in a saucepan until soft. Add remaining vegetables and cover with water. Season with salt and pepper. Bring to the boil, then cover and simmer for about 1 hour or until white beans are almost tender. Add vermicelli and continue cooking until soft.

Meanwhile, pound the garlic and basil to a paste in a large mortar or bowl. Slowly add about ½ cup remaining oil, alternating with cheese. Add additional oil to obtain a thick but pouring consistency. Taste soup and adjust seasoning. Pour basil mixture into soup, or offer it separately. Pass around a bowl of additional Parmesan if desired. Serves 8–10.

PITA BREAD

The unleavened bread of the Middle East, sometimes called Lebanese bread or pocket bread, because it is flat and hollow inside, like a pocket. Both white and wholemeal varieties are available.

Pita bread is soft, and can be rolled or folded around a filling: cubes of grilled meat, a couple of Falafel, or simply salad with Tahini Sauce. In the Middle East, it is always served with dips such as Hummus bi Tahini or Baba Ghannouj, and it can also be folded into a sort of spoon for eating stews or rice.

Pita bread is available from delicatessens and supermarkets, and is a very useful standby to have in your freezer.

Quick Pita Pizza: Cover pita bread with thin slices of tomato or a thick tomato purée, add slices of cheese, anchovies, olives and a sprinkling of oregano and pop into a hot oven for 5–10 minutes.

Individual Pissaladière à la Minute: Top pita bread with finely sliced onions, cooked until very soft in oil or butter, then a lattice of anchovy fillets and black olives, and cook in a hot oven for 5–10 minutes.

PITHIVIERS

Gâteau Pithiviers is a much-loved pastry of France, named after the French town of Pithiviers. It becomes the traditional epiphany cake served on Twelfth Night (6th January) in France, when it is called galette des rois (cake of kings). It was the traditional gift of the baker to his favourite customers, the almond paste sometimes hiding a dried bean or silver trinket, and the cake accompanied by a cardboard cut-out crown. The lucky person who found the bean in his mouth would wear the crown for the day.

It is fairly easy to make, with frozen puff pastry sheets being readily available.

GÂTEAU PITHIVIERS

2 sheets ready-rolled frozen puff pastry
1 egg, beaten, for glaze
2 tablespoons caster sugar

Filling

125 g (4 oz) unsalted butter
½ cup caster sugar
1 egg
1 egg yolk
150 g (5 oz) ground almonds
1 tablespoon plain flour
2 tablespoons rum

To make filling, cream the butter and beat in the sugar until light and fluffy. Beat in the egg and yolk. Stir in the ground almonds, flour and rum.

With a sharp knife and using a cake tin as a guide, cut out a 25 cm (10 in) round from each sheet of pastry. Set one round on a baking tray and mound the filling in the centre, leaving a 2.5 cm (1 in) border. Brush the border with some of the egg glaze. Lay the remaining round on top and press the edges together firmly. Scallop the edge of the gâteau by pulling it in at regular intervals with the back of a knife. Chill until ready to bake, as this is delicious served warm. Brush with egg glaze and, working from the centre, score the top in curves like the petals of a flower without cutting through to the filling. Cut a hole in the centre to allow steam to escape.

Bake in a preheated (220°C/425°F) oven for 20 minutes, reduce the heat to (180°C/350°F) and bake for a further 10 minutes. Sprinkle with the extra caster sugar and return to the oven for a further 5–10 minutes to give the pastry a crisp, caramelised glaze. Serve warm with coffee or with whipped cream as a dessert. Serves 8.

PIZZA

Probably no other food has had such a quick rise to fame as the pizza. From Italy, it has spread to almost every country in the world. Its power to please lies in the aroma of the freshly baked yeast crust, the savoury topping, and its versatility as a snack, first course, or meal in itself.

The word ‘pizza’ in Italian actually means any kind of cake or pie, but the pizza most familiar is the pizza alla Napoletana, a dish typical of Naples. It consists of a layer of dough, rolled or patted to a preferred thickness, and is beautiful to look at topped with a wonderful fresh tomato sauce or sliced tomatoes, black olives, anchovies, mozzarella cheese and sometimes a sprinkling of oregano leaves. Today, round pizza ovens, with their glowing coals, are to be found at work from the narrow alleyways of Naples to all over the south and into the north of Italy as well. Indeed, pizza shops are all over the world.

Pizza is traditionally cooked in a round pan in a hot oven until the edges are brown and crisp and the cheese bubbly and golden. It is cut into wedges to serve, and eaten with the fingers. For parties, bake pizza in a rectangular or square tin, which makes it easier to cut into serving-size portions.

There are countless varieties of pizza, ranging from the simplest – just a crust, tomato sauce and mozzarella cheese – to the elaborate four seasons pizza, each section representing a season of the year. Washed down with a goodly quantity of light wine, pizza makes a delicious and substantial meal prepared before your very eyes.

PIZZA DOUGH (1)

If you like a high, fluffy, bread-like crust, use this dough to make 1 × 30 cm (12 in) pizza. For a thinner, crisper crust, divide dough roll and pat out into 2 × 30 cm (12 in) rounds.

30 g (1 oz) compressed yeast, or 1 sachet (1½ teaspoons) active dried yeast
1 cup lukewarm water
½ teaspoon sugar
3 tablespoons olive oil
3 cups flour
1½ teaspoons salt
freshly ground white pepper

Combine compressed yeast, water and sugar in a large bowl. (If using dried yeast see Yeast Cookery.) Set aside for about 15 minutes or until surface is foamy. Stir in olive oil. Sift flour and salt over yeast mixture, season with pepper and blend with a wooden spoon. Turn dough onto a lightly floured work surface and knead gently until smooth and elastic. Place dough in a large, greased bowl, turn dough to grease it all over. Cover with a tea-towel and leave in a warm place for 2 hours, or until doubled in bulk, light and spongy. Turn out onto a lightly floured work surface, knock down and knead 4–5 times. Roll out to a 30 cm (12 in) diameter round about 1 cm (½ in) thick, or divide dough in half and roll out into 2 rounds 5 mm (¼ in) thick. Place on a greased baking tray, cover and leave to rise in a warm place for about 15 minutes before adding toppings. Makes 1–2 pizza crusts.

NOTE: After the first rising, pizza dough can be wrapped in plastic wrap and refrigerated overnight. The next day, simply knock down, knead lightly, roll out, and allow to rise for 15 minutes before filling and baking.

PIZZA DOUGH (2)

This recipe makes a dough that can be successfully reheated. You can make the pizzas beforehand and reheat them in a slow oven for 7–10 minutes before serving, or freeze them until required. The quantity is enough for 12 individual pizzas about 12 cm (5 in) in diameter, or 1 large rectangular pizza about 35 × 30 cm (14 × 12 in) in diameter.

4 cups flour
2 teaspoons salt
½ cup lukewarm milk
30 g (10 oz) compressed yeast, or 1 sachet (1½ teaspoons) active dried yeast
1 egg
2–4 tablespoons olive oil

Sift flour and salt into a large, warmed bowl. Combine a little milk and compressed yeast and stir until it is smooth. (If using dried yeast, see Yeast Cookery.) Make a well in centre of flour and pour in yeast mixture, remaining milk, egg and 2 tablespoons olive oil. Stir with a wooden spoon to form a dough, adding more olive oil if required until dough can be shaped into a ball which comes away cleanly from sides of bowl. Cover with a tea-towel and leave to rise in a warm place for about 2 hours or until doubled in bulk and spongy. Knock dough down, knead 4–5 times and pat out in a greased rectangular baking tray, or shape into 12 individual round pizzas and arrange on greased baking trays. Allow dough to rise in a warm place for 15 minutes before adding toppings. Makes 1 large or 12 small pizza crusts.

PIZZA SAUCE

This rich, flavourful tomato sauce is used as a base for many pizzas. It is spread over the bread dough before other toppings are added. Instead of fresh tomatoes, drained canned whole tomatoes may be used.

750 g (1½ lb) ripe tomatoes, peeled and chopped
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil, or 1 teaspoon dried
1 bay leaf
1 tablespoon brown sugar
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Place all ingredients in a saucepan and simmer gently for 30–40 minutes, stirring often. Taste for seasoning, remove bay leaf and cool before using. Makes sufficient for two 30 cm (12 in) diameter rounds, or two 35 × 30 cm (14 × 12 in) rectangles.

FOUR SEASONS PIZZA

A choice of four toppings makes this pizza especially colourful and interesting.

½ quantity Pizza Dough (1), patted out to a 30 cm (12 in) round
1 quantity Pizza Sauce (above)

Topping 1

2 slices cooked ham, cut into strips
4 medium mushrooms, thinly sliced
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Topping 2

4 anchovy fillets, halved
2 tablespoons diced mozzarella cheese
2 teaspoons drained capers

Topping 3

4–5 slices salami, cut into strips
8 black olives, stoned

Topping 4

6 prawns, shelled and de-veined, or ¼ cup flaked tuna, or 1 × 125 g can mussels, drained
4 thin slices mozzarella cheese
2 tablespoons olive oil and ¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese to finish

Spread cooled sauce over dough and add toppings, a different one for each quarter. Sprinkle the olive oil and cheese over the whole pizza and bake in a preheated hot oven (200°C/400°F) for 18–20 minutes or until crust is golden and crisp around edges. Serves 6–8.

SALAMI PIZZA

double quantity Pizza Dough (2), patted out to two 35 × 30 cm (14 × 12 in) rectangles or two 30 cm (12 in) rounds
4 tablespoons olive oil
½ cup grated Parmesan cheese
1 quantity Pizza Sauce (above)
1 × 50 g can flat anchovy fillets
125 g (4 oz) Italian salami, cut into strips
12 black olives, stoned and quartered

Brush pizza dough with half of the olive oil and sprinkle with half of the Parmesan cheese. Spoon sauce over the top, then add anchovy fillets, salami and black olives. Sprinkle with remaining oil and cheese. Bake pizzas in a preheated hot oven (200°C/400°F) for 18–20 minutes or until crust is golden and cooked. Serves 12.

VARIATION

NEAPOLITAN PIZZA: Make as for Salami Pizza but replace salami with slices of mozzarella cheese, and omit Parmesan cheese. Olives are optional.

HAM AND MUSHROOM PIZZA

double quantity Pizza Dough (2), patted out to two 35 × 30 cm (14 × 12 in) rectangles or two 30 cm (12 in) rounds
4 tablespoons olive oil
½ cup grated Parmesan cheese
1 quantity Pizza Sauce (above)
250 g (8 oz) cooked ham, cut into strips
6–8 mushrooms, finely sliced
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Brush pizza dough with half olive oil and sprinkle with half of the Parmesan cheese. Spoon sauce over the top and then add ham and mushrooms, seasoning with salt and pepper. Sprinkle remaining olive oil and Parmesan cheese over and bake in a preheated hot oven (200°C/400°F) for 18–20 minutes or until crust is golden and cooked. Serves 12.

VARIATION

PIZZA MARGHERITA: Make as for Ham and Mushroom Pizza, substituting 2 cups diced mozzarella cheese and 12 leaves fresh basil, finely chopped, for the ham and mushrooms.

PLUM

A round stone fruit that comes in an abundance of colours, shapes and sizes throughout summer and the early part of autumn. There are large, red-skinned, yellow-fleshed varieties; deep crimson blood plums; small, oval, purplish angelinas; large prune plums; and sweet greengage plums.

Some varieties of plum are best eaten raw, or combined with other stone fruits, sprinkled with caster sugar and lemon juice and a little brandy and chilled. Others are equally good cooked, or made into a fruit tart; choose the least juicy varieties for a tart.

Spiced pickled plums make a good accompaniment to cold meats, or to a simple meat loaf.

PLUMS IN PORT

12 plums
3 cups water
1 cup sugar
cup port
Crème Fraîche or ice cream and crisp biscuits to serve

Wash plums. Place water and sugar in a saucepan and bring slowly to the boil, stirring until sugar dissolves. Boil, without stirring, for 5 minutes. Add port and plums and poach gently for about 5 minutes or until plums are tender. Remove plums and set aside. Boil the syrup until it is reduced by about one-third, then pour over the plums. Chill. Serve in a glass bowl with Crème Fraîche or ice cream, and a crisp biscuit. Serves 4.

OVEN-BAKED PLUMS

1 kg (2 lb) plums
¾ cup sugar
¼ cup water

Make shallow cut around each plum, then arrange in an ovenproof dish. Sprinkle with sugar and water, cook in a preheated slow oven (150°C/300°F) for 20–25 minutes or until soft. Serve warm. Serves 6.

VARIATIONS

Use brown or vanilla sugar in place of ordinary crystal sugar, or substitute 2 tablespoons each port and water for water.

PEACH AND PLUM COMPOTE

1 cup sugar
1 cup water
thinly peeled rind 1 orange, cut into fine strips
1 tablespoon lemon juice
about 2 tablespoons Cointreau
4 large ripe peaches, peeled
4 large ripe plums, peeled

Dissolve sugar in water in a saucepan over low heat. Bring to the boil, then add orange rind strips and boil for 5 minutes. Cool. Add lemon juice and Cointreau to cooled syrup. Place whole fruit in serving bowl and pour over syrup. Cover and chill before serving. Serves 4.

PICKLED PLUMS

An unusual accompaniment to cold meats, especially good with ham or pork.

1½ cups sugar
1½ cups wine vinegar
1 small cinnamon stick
1 tablespoon whole cloves
1 kg (2 lb) plums

Dissolve sugar in vinegar in a large saucepan over low heat. Bring to the boil and boil for 2–3 minutes, then add cinnamon and cloves. Prick plums in several places with a fine skewer and add to syrup. Bring to the boil again, skimming off any scum. Lift out plums and place in a bowl. Boil syrup for 3–4 minutes, then pour over plums. Leave in a cold place for 24 hours. Drain off syrup into a saucepan and bring to the boil. Add plums, return to the boil, then lift out plums. Boil syrup for 2 minutes longer and pour over plums. Cool. Place in sterilised jars and seal. Leave in a cool, dark place for 6 weeks before using.

NOTE: For sterilising jars and storing preserves see Jams.

PLUM PUDDING

See Christmas Pudding.

POLENTA

A yellow maize or cornmeal grown in northern Italy, where it is regarded as one of the staple foods. Polenta is used in many different ways after it has first been prepared as a rather thick porridge. Polenta is graded according to its texture and can be fine, medium or coarse ground. It is available from most supermarkets, delicatessens and health food stores.

Plain boiled polenta can be grilled, baked or fried and served with a meat or tomato sauce, or simply with butter and grated cheese. It can be made into Gnocchi, served in a ring with a chicken liver filling, or with chicken and mushrooms in a casserole.

BASIC POLENTA

6 cups water
2 teaspoons salt
250 g (8 oz) finely ground polenta
freshly ground black pepper

Bring water and salt to the boil in a saucepan over medium heat. Slowly pour in polenta, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon until a smooth mixture forms. Lower heat and simmer, stirring frequently, for 20–25 minutes or until polenta comes away cleanly from sides of pan. Season to taste with pepper. Serves 4.

VARIATION

THICK POLENTA: If a thicker polenta is needed, continue cooking over a low heat for 50 minutes or until it reaches the required thickness.

POLENTA IN TOMATO SAUCE

1 quantity Basic Polenta (above)
1 cup Tomato Sauce
grated Parmesan cheese

Turn warm polenta into a greased baking dish. Spread out evenly. When cool, cut into 5 cm (2 in) squares. Place squares in a lightly greased, shallow ovenproof dish, spoon over tomato sauce and sprinkle generously with grated Parmesan cheese. Bake in a preheated moderately hot oven (190°C/375°F) for 30–40 minutes or until golden-brown. Serve hot, with extra grated Parmesan cheese. Serves 4.

POLENTA WITH CHICKEN LIVERS

1 quantity Basic Polenta (above)
3 rashers bacon, rind removed and diced
30 g (1 oz) butter
500 g (1 lb) chicken livers
250 g (8 oz) mushrooms, sliced
salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 leaves fresh sage
¼ cup dry white wine
finely chopped parsley

Turn warm polenta into a greased 18 cm (7 in) cake tin and keep warm in a larger pan of hot water while preparing filling. Fry bacon in a frying pan until crisp. Add butter, chicken livers and mushrooms and sauté over medium heat for about 2 minutes or until chicken livers are just brown. Season with salt and pepper, add sage and wine. When wine starts to boil, turn down heat and cook for 2–3 minutes. Remove sage leaves. Ease polenta away from edges of tin and turn carefully onto a serving plate. Serve wedges with mixture and sprinkle with parsley. Serves 6–8.

POLENTA CASSEROLE

1 quantity thick Basic Polenta (above)
500 g (1 lb) mushrooms, sliced
30 g (1 oz) butter
3 cups diced cooked chicken
1 cup Tomato Sauce
½ cup grated Parmesan cheese

Serve warm polenta in a buttered casserole dish. Sauté mushrooms in butter for 3 minutes and scatter over polenta with the chicken. Coat with sauce and sprinkle with Parmesan cheese. Bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for 45 minutes. Serves 6.

POMEGRANATE

A late summer fruit, about the size of an apple. Its thick, reddish-golden skin contains a mass of tiny seeds, each enclosed in a capsule of deep pink jelly.

A pomegranate may be halved and squeezed like an orange; its juice is very refreshing and thirst-quenching, and forms the basis for grenadine syrup. The fleshy seeds may be eaten with a teaspoon, after all the skin and membrane of the pomegranate has been removed. In mediaeval times, pomegranate seeds were used to decorate dishes of fish, poultry and salad; they still are today.

POPCORN

A perennial children’s favourite for snacks and for birthday parties. It is a special type of dried corn, and may be bought ready-popped, either plain, toffee-coated or candy-coated. Popping your own corn, though, is very simple and much more fun. Automatic popcorn poppers are available, but an ordinary frying pan with a lid, or an electric frypan, will do the same job.

To pop corn: Heat 1–2 tablespoons oil in the pan, just enough to film the base, and add enough popcorn to cover half the base of the pan in one layer. Shake over high heat until popping starts, then cover with lid. Shake pan from time to time as long as popping continues (if you remove the lid you will have popcorn all over the room!).When all corn has popped, toss with melted butter and sprinkle lightly with salt.

POPOVER

First cousin to the Yorkshire pudding, popovers are made with the same basic ingredients, in slightly different proportions, and baked in the same way.

Popovers may be sweet or savoury. They may be eaten with butter and sugar, with honey, jam or golden syrup, or they may be split open and filled with a savoury meat, chicken or vegetable mixture. But no matter how they are eaten, they should be served as soon as they come out of the oven, nicely puffed and crisp.

POPOVERS

1 cup flour
pinch salt
2 eggs, beaten with 1 cup milk
1 tablespoon oil or melted butter

Sift flour and salt into a bowl. Make well in centre and pour in egg mixture. Add oil or melted butter and mix until batter is smooth, then beat well until surface is covered with bubbles. Allow to stand in a cool place for 1 hour. Grease deep patty pan tins or custard cups well and half fill with batter. Bake in a preheated hot oven (220°C/425°F) for about 40 minutes or until puffed and golden. Serve at once. Makes 8–10.

POPPY SEED

The tiny seed of a poppy plant, used a lot in European and Asian cooking. Although the plant belongs to the same family as the opium poppy, it is non-narcotic but does have some medicinal value – an infusion is said to relieve the pain of toothache.

Poppy seeds are often sprinkled on bread, rolls and savoury biscuits before baking, and baking enhances their nutty flavour. In central European countries, such as Austria and Hungary, poppy seeds are combined with sugar and raisins, peel or spice to make a strudel filling. For cakes, they may either be cooked in milk until soft or ground into a sort of flour.

The best poppy seeds are said to come from Holland, and are slate-blue in colour. In some countries, poppy seeds are crushed for their oil (they contain about 50% oil), which may be used as salad oil.

POPPY SEED NOODLES

egg ribbon noodles, cooked
butter
1–2 tablespoons poppy seeds

Drain noodles and return to pan. Add butter and poppy seeds and toss well. Serve with goulash, casseroles of meat or poultry.

POPPY SEED CAKE

An unusual but delicious cake. Serve as a dessert or as a tea-time treat.

1½ cups poppy seeds
6 eggs, separated
1 cup sugar
½ cup chopped mixed candied peel
1 teaspoon ground allspice
whipped cream

Grind poppy seeds in blender. Beat egg yolks until thick, then gradually add sugar and continue beating until very thick and pale. Stir in peel, allspice and poppy seeds. Beat egg whites until stiff and fold into yolk mixture. Pour mixture into a greased and floured 23 cm (9 in) springform tin. Bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for about 50 minutes. Allow cake to cool in tin, then remove sides. Spread top with whipped cream before serving.

PORK

Pork sold in butchers’ shops is from young animals and is a tender meat. Good pork should have pale pink, fine-grained flesh, pearly white fat and thin, smooth skin.

It used to be considered essential to cook pork thoroughly but modern commercial methods of feeding and raising pigs have made this unnecessary. Small cuts, grilled and fried, are more succulent if not cooked too well done; however, most people still enjoy a larger cut best if it is served traditionally well cooked.

See Meat for amount to buy, factors determining tenderness, testing meat for doneness, carving, etc.

ROAST PORK

Choice cuts for roasting:

Leg: A very large roast if left whole, but many butchers sell half-legs. The shank end is easier to cook evenly and to carve if it is boned and tied.

Loin: Can be bone-in or boned and tied. A full loin serves 8–10, but can be cut in 2 to make smaller roasts.

Rib on the bone: Consists of 6–8 rib chops in a piece.

Crown roast: Made from 2 sets of ribs bent round and tied together to make a circle with the meat inside and the bones outside. The skin and excess fat are removed before tying.

Fillet: A small, skinless and very tender piece of meat which is usually baked en croûte (pastry-wrapped), rather than truly roasted.

Suckling pig: A whole very young pig, still being milk-fed, hence its name. This makes an impressive party dish.

Economical cuts for roasting:

Shoulder: Can be bone-in or boned, rolled and tied. It may be stuffed before being tied.

Hand: Easier to cook evenly and to carve if it is boned and tied.

Foreloin, or cushion.

Belly, or spring: Used as the outer wrapping for a pork and veal–stuffed rolled roast. Belly is a flat and rather fatty cut which gives lots of crackling but has only a thin layer or two of lean meat. It can be slit through the centre and filled with a meaty stuffing for an economical roast.

To roast: Choice and economical cuts which still have the skin on may be roasted in the same way. Have skin scored by the butcher or score it yourself with a sharp knife, cutting about 3 mm ( in) deep at 1 cm (½ in) intervals. Tie meat into a compact shape if necessary, so that it will cook evenly, and weigh it. Sprinkle skin with cooking salt and rub well in (this makes the crackling crisp). Place pork, skin side up, on a rack in a roasting tin. Roast in a preheated very hot oven (260°C/500°F) for about 20–30 minutes or until the skin starts to bubble and crisp, then lower heat to moderate (180°C/350°F) for remainder of cooking time. Do not baste pork or cover dish, or the crackling will lose its crispness. Allow a total roasting time of approximately 30 minutes per 500 g (1 lb), plus an extra 30 minutes. To test for doneness, See Meat. Rest for 15–30 minutes in turned-off oven, with door ajar, or other warm place, before carving.

For pork roasts which have had the skin removed, follow instructions above but omit initial searing to crisp skin. Instead, place pork fatty side up in a preheated hot oven (220°C/425°F) for 10 minutes, then turn down heat to moderate (180°C/350°F) and continue cooking, allowing about 35 minutes per 500 g (1 lb), plus an extra 35 minutes.

To cook a crown roast: Cook in the same manner as other skinless roasts, but allow about 25 minutes per 500 g (1 lb). Stand crown roast directly in the pan, and protect tops of bones with foil to prevent charring.

GRILLED PORK

It is best to have pork chops and steaks cut 2–2.5 cm (¾ –1 in) thick for grilling.

Choice cuts for grilling:

Loin chops or the ‘new-style’ cuts: From the loin and chump (rump) area: medallions, butterfly steaks, porkacue steaks.

Economical cuts for grilling:

Leg chops and chump chops: These are inclined to be dry, so need to be marinated before grilling or basted very frequently during grilling.

Spareribs: Delicious barbecued; these are usually pre-baked or simmered to melt away excess fat, and are often marinated and always basted with spicy sauce.

To grill: Have meat at room temperature. Use a sharp knife to cut through the skin and fat around the edge at 1 cm (½ in) intervals to prevent buckling. Season with freshly ground black pepper and brush with oil or melted butter. Place on a greased grill rack under a preheated moderate grill or over coals. Brush every 2–3 minutes with more oil or melted butter to keep meat moist, and turn 2–3 times. Allow 12–16 minutes, depending on cut and thickness. To test for doneness, See Meat.

PAN-FRIED PORK

This method is suitable for slices of fillet, chops or steaks (any cut) and for the small ‘new–style’ cuts such as medallions or pork schnitzels cut from the leg. Prepare meat as for grilling. Use a thick, heavy pan; heat on high heat for a few minutes, add just enough oil, or butter and oil, to coat the base and when it gives off a slight haze, put in the meat. Cook for 30–60 seconds on each side until browned, then lower heat to moderate and continue to cook, turning once, until done as desired. To test for doneness, See Meat.

If meat is coated with breadcrumbs, cook as described but use a little more fat, enough to come halfway up the pieces.

A pan sauce, such as those given below, can be made after the meat is removed.

Pan sauces for pork: These quantities are enough for 4 large chops or 6–8 small medallions.

Juniper and Herb Sauce: Dust pork with flour and pan-fry in butter and oil as described. Remove meat and keep warm for a few minutes. Pour all but 1 tablespoon fat from the pan and add cup dry white wine, cup beef stock, 3 crushed juniper berries and 1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme, or ¼ teaspoon dried. Boil for 3 minutes, stirring and scraping up brown bits from pan. Season and pour over pork.

Cider and Cream Sauce: Pan-fry pork in a little oil as described, remove it from pan and keep warm for a few minutes. Pour off fat from pan, add 1 tablespoon butter and melt it. Add 2 tablespoons finely chopped shallot and cook gently for 2 minutes. Add cup cider and boil, stirring and scraping up brown bits from pan, for 2–3 minutes. Stir in ¼ cup cream, simmer for 1–2 minutes longer, season and pour over pork.

Piquant Caper Sauce (for crumbed pork or schnitzel): Coat pork with flour, egg and fresh or dried breadcrumbs, and pan-fry in butter and oil as described. Remove it from pan and keep warm. Add a little extra butter to pan, if necessary, to make about 2 tablespoons. Add 1 onion, chopped, and cook gently for a few minutes until softened. Add 3 canned anchovy fillets, finely chopped, ½ cup brown stock and 1 tablespoon wine vinegar. Boil, stirring and scraping up brown bits from pan, for about 3 minutes. Season, remove from heat and swirl in a knob of butter. Pour over pork and serve immediately.

BRAISED OR CASSEROLED PORK

Cuts for braising or casseroling include chops and steaks (any cut) and also diced meat from belly or forequarter.

PORK AND SAUERKRAUT GOULASH

Sauerkraut is a good foil for the richness of pork – this is an old Hungarian recipe.

60 g (2 oz) butter
1 tablespoon oil
4 onions, finely sliced
1 kg (2 lb) boneless pork shoulder, cut into 2.5 cm (1 in) cubes
2 tablespoons paprika
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1 cup water
salt
1 × 440 g can sauerkraut, drained
1 teaspoon caraway seeds
1 tablespoon flour
½ cup sour light cream

Melt butter and oil in a large flameproof casserole and cook onions until golden. Stir in pork and paprika and sauté for 5 minutes. Stir in tomato paste and water and bring to the boil, stirring constantly. Season with salt, cover and simmer for 30 minutes. Place sauerkraut in a colander and rinse well under cold running water. Drain. Add to casserole with caraway seeds and enough water just to cover. Simmer, covered, for 45 minutes or until pork is just tender. Combine flour with a little sour cream and stir into goulash. Simmer, stirring constantly, for 10 minutes, then add remaining sour cream and heat through. Adjust seasoning to taste. Serves 4–6.

MEDITERRANEAN-STYLE PORK CHOPS

30 g (1 oz) butter
1 tablespoon oil
4 pork chops
salt and freshly ground black pepper
375 g (¾ lb) mushrooms, sliced
2 large green or red peppers, cored, seeded and chopped
375 g (¾ lb) tomatoes, skinned and sliced
1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil
1 teaspoon sugar
1 cup chicken stock

Melt butter and oil and fry chops quickly until browned on both sides; season and remove from pan. Fry mushrooms and peppers until soft. Add tomatoes, basil, sugar and stock. Boil for 3 minutes then return chops to pan and simmer, uncovered, for about 30 minutes. The sauce should be thick. Arrange chops on a heated dish with sauce and garnish with lemon wedges. Serves 4.

PORK CHOPS LYONNAIS

Onions are a feature of Lyonnais cooking, typified by this hearty dish, which should be served with lots of mashed potato to absorb the flavoursome juices.

8 pork chops
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 kg (2 lb) onions, finely chopped
3 tablespoons cider vinegar
3 tablespoons dry white wine
1 sprig fresh thyme, or pinch dried

Trim any excess fat from chops, season them with a little salt and pepper and set aside. Melt a little pork fat in heavy pan and cook onions gently until starting to turn brown. Remove from pan and keep warm. Melt a little more pork fat if necessary and cook chops for about 20 minutes, turning once. Remove to heated serving platter and keep warm. Add vinegar and wine to pan and bring to the boil, scraping up any bits stuck to bottom. Reduce liquid by half, then stir in onions and season with salt, pepper and thyme. Cook, stirring, for 3–4 minutes, then pour around chops. Remove fresh thyme if using. Serve with creamy mashed potatoes. Serves 6.

SPICED PORK CHOPS WITH APPLE SLICES

4 pork loin chops, cut about 2 cm (¾ in) thick
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon oil
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
½ teaspoon dry mustard
60 g (2 oz) butter
4 apples, cored and thickly sliced

Use a sharp knife to cut through fat around chops at 2 cm (¾ in) intervals (this is to prevent chops curling during grilling). Season with salt and pepper. Combine oil, garlic,Worcestershire sauce and mustard and spread over chops. Melt half the butter. Grill chops as described, brushing every 2 minutes with melted butter. Meanwhile, fry apple slices gently in remaining butter until golden-brown on both sides. Serve with chops. Serves 4.

SPARERIBS IN PLUM SAUCE

8–10 meaty pork spareribs
fluffy boiled rice to serve

Marinade

2 tablespoons sherry
1 tablespoon light soy sauce
1 tablespoon hoisin sauce
1 clove garlic, crushed
2 teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger

Sauce

1 × 425 g can purple plums
1 teaspoon chilli sauce
½ cup water
1 tablespoon cornflour
¼ cup malt vinegar

Blanch spareribs in boiling water for 2 minutes, then drain and pat dry with paper towels. Place spareribs in a flat dish.

To make marinade, combine ingredients, spoon over spareribs and stand for 2 hours, turning often, or cover and refrigerate overnight.

To make sauce, drain plums and measure ¾ cup syrup into a saucepan. Blend in remaining ingredients. Stone plums, then purée and add to sauce. Bring to the boil, stirring, until thickened. Simmer for 5 minutes. Drain spareribs, reserving marinade. Cook spareribs under a preheated hot grill, on a barbecue or on a rack in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/ 350°F) for 25–40 minutes, turning during the cooking. Add any marinade to plum sauce, then pour over spareribs and serve with fluffy boiled rice with a tossed salad. Serves 4–6.

FINNISH KARELIAN POT

This old Finnish dish is so popular it is sold in cans in Finland. The recipe couldn’t be simpler, but the combination of meats and the long, slow cooking give it a unique flavour. In Finland, it would be served with boiled potatoes and tart-sweet lingon-berries or cranberries, both available in cans from delicatessens.

500 g (1 lb) lean, boneless pork
500 g (1 lb) lean, boneless beef
500 g (1 lb) lean, boneless lamb
1 tablespoon coarse salt (sea salt)
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
3–4 juniper berries (optional)
1 cup water

Cut meat into bite-size cubes and combine. Arrange in layers in a deep, round casserole, sprinkling each layer with a little salt. Add peppercorns, juniper berries, if using, and water and cover very tightly. (This amount of water seems small, but juices will come from meat.) Bake in a preheated slow oven (150°C/300°F) for 4 hours, or in a slow cooker set on low for 6–8 hours. Adjust seasoning, and serve from the pot. Serves 6–8.

PORK CHOPS WITH GREEN PEPPERCORNS

4 pork butterfly chops, loin chops or steaks
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon oil
2 teaspoons green peppercorns
1 tablespoon French mustard
½– cup cream
watercress or parsley to garnish

Season pork with salt and pepper. Heat oil in a large frying pan and fry pork for 4–5 minutes on each side. Remove to a heated platter and keep warm. Pour off all but 1 tablespoon fat from pan. Add peppercorns and fry for a few seconds, then add mustard and cream. Shake pan or stir with rounded side of a spoon to pick up brown bits on bottom of pan. Continue to cook until sauce thickens. Spoon sauce over pork and garnish with watercress or parsley. Serve with creamy, mashed potatoes or ribbon noodles and a green salad. Serves 4.

PORK SCHNITZELS WITH LEMON

Pork schnitzels look like and can be treated in the same way as veal schnitzels. This is an Italian way of treating tender, thin steaks.

6–8 pork schnitzels
juice 1 lemon
salt and freshly ground black pepper
flour
30 g (1 oz) butter
3 tablespoons oil
2 teaspoons butter and 6–8 slices lemon to finish

Season each schnitzel with lemon juice, salt and pepper and let meat stand for 30 minutes. Dry and dust lightly with flour. Heat half the butter and oil in a large frying pan and sauté half the steaks about for 3 minutes on each side. Remove to a plate and keep warm. Fry remaining schnitzels, using remaining butter and oil. It is important not to crowd the pan, or the meat steams.

To finish, heat butter in pan and lightly sauté lemon slices. Top schnitzels with lemon; serve with mashed or sautéed potatoes and a salad. Serves 4–6.

PICKLED (SALT) PORK

This is a useful cold meat to have on hand for summer eating. Slices of the pork are good mixed with shredded lettuce as a sandwich filling, or diced and added to omelettes. Top rye bread with thin slices, a dill pickle and a spot of mustard for open sandwiches. Smear slices with mustard, toss in breadcrumbs and pan-fry or grill for a hot dish. Cubes of pickled (salt) pork can be added to rice or potato salad, and of course it is delicious simply served as part of a cold meat platter.

1.5 kg (3 lb) pickled (salt) belly pork or hand of pork
2 carrots, sliced
1 onion, sliced
6 black peppercorns
2 cloves
2–3 stalks parsley
3 tablespoons wine vinegar

Soak pork in cold water for 3–4 hours. Drain, put in a saucepan with fresh cold water to cover and add remaining ingredients. Bring to simmering point, skimming off the scum, then cover pan and simmer gently for 1½ –2 hours or until pork is very tender. Remove and drain pork, cool slightly and slip out bones. Place in a flat dish, cover with plastic wrap and press with a weight until cold. Chill, then remove to a fresh plate or cover with fresh wrap. Serve in thin slices with hot English mustard and vinegar, or use in any of the ways suggested above. Serves 6.

NOTE: If using a hand of pork, there is no need to press it.

PORK CHEESE

For this excellent old-fashioned cold meat dish, fresh or pickled (salt) pork is cooked slowly until it falls from the bone and is pressed in its own savoury juices, which form a jelly.

1 fresh or pickled (salt) hand of pork
salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 leaves fresh sage, finely chopped

If using pickled (salt) pork, soak in water to cover overnight. Drain. Place in a heavy pan with enough fresh water just to cover. Cover and cook over low heat for 4 hours. Drain, reserving liquid, and discard bones. Place meat, including skin, in a bowl and season with salt, if needed, and pepper. Sprinkle sage over pork. Strain a little cooking liquid onto meat in bowl and leave to cool, pressed down with a weight. Chill until set. Turn out and serve with a green salad. Serves 6.

SPARERIBS WITH SPICED BARBECUE SAUCE

Meaty spareribs are lightly simmered, marinated overnight in a sweet and spicy sauce, then grilled until brown and crisp.

2 kg (4 lb) meaty pork spareribs
fresh coriander or shredded spring onion tops to garnish
boiled rice to serve

Barbecue sauce

½ cup tomato paste
½ cup olive oil
¼ cup red wine vinegar
2.5 cm (1 in) piece fresh ginger, chopped
2 tablespoons turmeric
2 tablespoons hoisin sauce
4 cloves garlic, chopped
1 teaspoon hot chilli sauce, or ¼ teaspoon Tabasco sauce
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Place spareribs in a large saucepan, cover with water and bring to the boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 20 minutes. Drain. Make the barbecue sauce by mixing all ingredients in a food processor fitted with a steel blade or in a blender about 30 seconds or until well combined, then transfer to a large bowl. Add spareribs, covering them well with sauce, cover bowl and chill overnight. Drain spareribs and place on an oiled rack under a preheated grill or over hot coals. Grill, turning once, for 15 minutes or until browned and crisp. Arrange spareribs on a heated platter. If liked, strew fresh coriander or shredded spring onion tops over spareribs. Serve with boiled rice. Serves 6–8.

FRAGRANT PORK BALLS WITH CABBAGE

Unlike many Chinese dishes, this one can be made beforehand if necessary and gently reheated. Pork mince is available from many butchers and supermarkets.

500 g (1 lb) pork mince
8 spring onions, finely chopped
1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger
½ cup drained, chopped water chestnuts (optional)
1 egg, lightly beaten
3 tablespoons dry sherry
1 teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
½ teaspoon Chinese five-spice powder
3 tablespoons soy sauce
1 tablespoon cornflour mixed to a paste with 2 tablespoons water
½ cup peanut oil
1 small head of cabbage or Chinese cabbage, chopped
2 cups water
2 teaspoons sugar

Mix mince with spring onions, ginger, water chestnuts, egg, 1 tablespoon sherry, salt, pepper, five-spice powder and 1 tablespoon soy sauce. Wet hands with cornflour mixture and shape pork mixture into 4 large balls. Heat oil in a wok or deep frying pan and fry meatballs for about 5 minutes or until golden-brown on all sides. Drain on paper towels and set aside. Reheat oil in wok and fry cabbage, tossing, for 2–3 minutes until coated with oil. Arrange meatballs on top, add water, remaining soy sauce and sherry and sugar and cover pan. Simmer for 1 hour. Serve with plain boiled rice and side dishes of soy sauce and hot mustard. Serves 4.

BARBECUED PORK SPARERIBS

Ask your butcher to cut spareribs into individual ribs.

1.5 kg (3 lb) meaty pork spareribs
3 tablespoons oil
5 tablespoons soy sauce
5 tablespoons water
2 tablespoons hoisin sauce
1 teaspoon sugar
4 slices fresh ginger, shredded
2 onions, finely sliced
5 tablespoons dry sherry
salt and freshly ground white pepper
5 tablespoons chicken stock

Blanch spareribs in boiling water for 2 minutes, then drain and pat dry with paper towels. Put ribs and oil into a flameproof casserole. Heat until oil just begins to bubble, then stir-fry for 5 minutes over medium heat, to brown ribs. Add soy sauce, water, hoisin sauce, sugar, ginger and onions. Stir until well blended, turning ribs to coat. Put casserole into a preheated slow oven (150°C/300°F). Cook for 20 minutes, then stir in sherry and season with salt and pepper. Cook for a further 40 minutes, stirring halfway through. Take dish from oven, remove spareribs and place them side by side on bottom of a baking dish. Return to oven and increase temperature to very hot (230°C/ 450°F). Roast for 12–15 minutes or until crisp and rich golden-brown. Arrange spareribs on a heated platter. Pour chicken stock into casserole dish with onion mixture and stir over moderate heat for 2–3 minutes. Pour into a separate dish and serve with spareribs. Serves 4–6.

STIR-FRIED PORK WITH SPRING ONIONS

Other vegetables may be substituted for the spring onions.

315 g (about 10 oz) boneless pork loin or fillet

Marinade

1 clove garlic, crushed
1 tablespoon soy sauce
½ tablespoon sugar
1 tablespoon cornflour

To cook

2–3 tablespoons oil
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 teaspoon sugar
8 spring onions, cut into finger lengths

Remove any fat and tough membranes from pork, and cut into slices about 5 mm (¼ in) thick. Using blunt edge of a chopper, or a heavy saucer, pound meat lightly to tenderise and flatten it. Mix marinade ingredients together, pour over pork and allow to stand for 30 minutes. Heat oil in a wok or a large, heavy frying pan. Fry pork slices on both sides until golden-brown (add a little more oil if necessary to prevent sticking). This should take about 4 minutes altogether. Add soy sauce and sugar. Stir in the spring onions, quickly mix through pork, then transfer to a heated serving plate and serve at once. This will serve 4–6 as part of a Chinese meal, or 2 as a main course with rice.

CHA SHAO QUICK ROAST PORK

1 kg (2 lb) pork fillet

Marinade
1½ tablespoons soy sauce

1½ teaspoons red bean curd
1½ tablespoons dry sherry
1 tablespoon hoisin sauce
½ teaspoon salt
1½ teaspoons sugar or honey
1 tablespoon oil

Place pork fillet in a shallow dish. Combine marinade ingredients, pour over pork and turn meat until well coated with marinade. Leave for 2 hours, turning every 20 minutes. Place pork on a wire rack in a baking dish and roast in a preheated hot oven (220°C/ 425°F) for 12 minutes, turning halfway through cooking. Remove from oven and cut into 5 mm (¼ in) thick slices. Arrange on a serving platter. Serves 4–6.

NOTE: Red bean curd can be purchased in cans from Chinese grocery stores.

ISLAND ROAST PORK

A good party dish. Serve with rice salad and glazed sweet potatoes.

2.5 kg (5 lb) loin of pork, bone-in or boned, rolled and tied
1 tablespoon light soy sauce
1½ teaspoons grated fresh ginger
1 clove garlic, crushed
2 teaspoons salt
2 teaspoons oil

Have skin of pork well scored. Mix soy sauce, ginger, garlic, salt and oil. Rub over pork. Cover and chill overnight. Next day, bring back to room temperature then place pork in a shallow roasting tin. Roast in a preheated very hot oven (260°C/500°F) for 15–20 minutes or until skin is starting to bubble and crisp. Lower heat to moderate (180°C/350°F) and roast for 2 hours. Do not cover pork while roasting. Serves 8–10.

ROAST SUCKLING PIG

Measure your oven and, when ordering the pig, specify the size you require. If necessary ask the butcher to saw it in half across the middle and arrange to have one-half cooked in a friend’s or neighbour’s oven. Also ask the butcher to score the sides of the pig diagonally at 2.5 cm (1 in) intervals from behind the head to the tail.

1 suckling pig, weighing 6–7 kg (12–15 lb)
olive oil
2 onions, finely chopped
6 spring onions, finely chopped
125 g (4 oz) butter
grated rind 1 lemon
6 cups fresh white breadcrumbs
4 tablespoons finely chopped mixed fresh herbs (marjoram, parsley, sage and thyme), or 3 tablespoons chopped parsley mixed with 1 tablespoon mixed dried herbs
salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 eggs, lightly beaten
watercress and baked apples (optional) to garnish

Make stuffing first. Fry onions and spring onions in half the butter until soft. Stir in remaining butter then lemon rind, breadcrumbs, herbs, salt, pepper and eggs. Pack loosely into pig. Sew up opening, or secure with skewers and lace them with string. Cover ears and tail with foil to protect them from burning. Place pig in a large baking dish on its belly with feet tucked in neatly, brush with oil and rub with salt. Bake in a preheated very hot oven (230°C/450°F) for about 45 minutes or until skin starts to crisp, then lower heat to moderate (180°C/350°F) and roast for a further 3 hours or until cooked. A small pig of 6 kg (12 lb) will take about 2½ hours. If the pig is cut in half, cooking time will be the same. Check for doneness with a meat thermometer inserted in thickest part of flesh, not touching bone; the pig will be cooked when internal temperature reaches 85°C/185°F. Failing a meat thermometer, pierce thickest part with a skewer and check juice that comes out; when pig is done, it will be quite clear with no tinge of pink. Leave pig in turned-off oven with door ajar for 20 minutes before serving. Place pig on a large platter or board. Serve hot or at room temperature, garnishing platter with watercress and baked apples or other garnish of your choice. If pig is in 2 halves, arrange a watercress garland, secured with toothpicks, over the join. To carve suckling pig, please See Meat. Serves 12–15.

POTTED HOUGH

The rightly famous potted meat of Scotland.

1.5 kg (3 lb) shin of beef, cut into thick slices
2 pig trotters, or 2 veal knuckles, each cut into 3 pieces
6 black peppercorns
1 blade mace
1 bay leaf
3–4 anchovy fillets, mashed
salt and freshly ground black pepper
cucumber slices, vinegar, hot English mustard, tomatoes and potato salad to serve

Put beef, pig trotters or veal knuckles, peppercorns, mace and bay leaf into a large, heavy saucepan and cover with cold water. Bring to the boil and skim top. Cover and simmer for 3 hours. Cool, then remove meat from broth. Strain broth. Trim away fat and gristle and remove bones from meat. With 2 forks, pull meat apart into fine shreds. Return shredded meat to strained broth and boil uncovered for 20 minutes to reduce. Add anchovies and season with salt and pepper. Boil for a further 5 minutes to blend flavours. Pour into 1 large or 2 small bowls which have first been rinsed with cold water. Cover with plastic wrap or a plate and chill until firm. Turn out onto a serving plate and garnish with cucumber slices. Serve the potted hough with vinegar, hot English mustard, tomatoes and a potato salad. Serves 8.

PORRIDGE

This is a relic of the gruel which was a staple item in the daily diet of poor peasants, particularly in the winter months, during many centuries past.

Basically, porridge is a mixture of partially milled grain and water, boiled until thick. Today it is more often a breakfast food, eaten with milk or cream, and may be sweetened with sugar or honey. It is usually made with rolled oats (see Oatmeal), but rolled wheat (wheatmeal) can also be used for porridge. Buckwheat is used in Russia to make a similar kind of porridge, called kasha (see Kasha), and in those areas of Europe where maize is grown, coarsely ground maize is the preferred grain.

SCOTTISH OATMEAL PORRIDGE

2 cups water
½ cup medium-ground oatmeal
¼ teaspoon salt

Bring water to the boil in a heavy saucepan or top of a double saucepan. Add oatmeal in a constant stream, stirring continuously. When boiling again, lower heat, cover and simmer very gently for 10 minutes. Add salt and stir. Cover and simmer for a further 10 minutes or until oatmeal is well swollen and tender. Serve piping hot in cold soup plates and dip each spoonful into individual bowls of cold milk or cream before eating. Serves 2.

PORT

A rich, sweet, fortified wine, usually drunk at the end of a meal but sometimes offered as an aperitif. In cooking it is used in a similar fashion to Madeira – for example, as a final enrichment to sauces. A simple sauce for roast duck can be made with pan juices, orange juice and port; Cumberland Sauce served with game and cold meats calls for port, and a basic brown sauce for roast meat may be varied by the addition of a little port. The once popular dessert of port wine jelly was made with port, redcurrant jelly, a little sugar, gelatine and water.

See also Jelly: Port Wine Jelly.

POTATO

There are numerous varieties of potatoes, with the more readily available ones depending on consumer demand and growers. Growers are constantly seeking hardier varieties according to their resistance to disease, keeping qualities and percentage yield that are also acceptable to the consumer. The consumer needs to know what potato is best for each method of cooking. Some make wonderful chips and baked potatoes, the more waxy ones are best for salads, while some are best for mashing. Much depends on how much starch a potato has.

Generally, the best potatoes for flavour and all-purpose use are those with a creamy flesh such as Desiree, Kipfler, Bintje and Pink Eye, among others. However, some of the more yellow-fleshed potatoes such as Nicola, though delicious, are often too waxy to be good for mashing. Those with a white flesh such as Pontiac, Russet Burbank and Sebago, are mostly used for mashing and chips.

Types of potatoes:

New or early: Proper new potatoes come onto the market in late spring and are available through most of the summer. They have a thin pearly skin and firm waxy flesh, are moister than older potatoes, and are best boiled or steamed. Chats are new-season potatoes which are graded to be round or oval in shape.

Old and floury or mealy: These are good for baking in their skins or ‘jackets’, or for boiling and mashing.

Slightly yellow or white-flesh waxy: Best for roasting, frying as chips, French fries, shoestrings or game chips, noisette or sautéed potatoes. Very waxy potatoes are best for salads.

Bintje: A long, oval potato with dense creamy flesh, best used for steaming, frying, boiling and salads.

Desiree: Oval potatoes with a pinkish-red skin and pale yellow creamy flesh. An excellent all-rounder, good for roasting, steaming, mashing and in sliced potato dishes.

Kipfler: These have yellow skin and flesh and an elongated knobbly shape and nutty flavour. Excellent boiled, steamed and in salads; good to roast. Rub with oil, sprinkle with sea salt and roast in a dry pan.

Nicola: Oval-shaped with creamy-coloured skin and yellow flesh. Good for boiling, potato salads, roasting, frying or microwaving, but the waxy texture means they are not suitable for mashing.

Patrone: Small, smooth-skinned, oval potatoes that can be slightly pear-shaped. The skin and flesh are light yellow. These potatoes have a firm waxy texture, which makes them excellent for steaming and boiling. They are good for salads, roasting and gratin dishes, but are not well suited to mashing.

Toolangi Delight: This potato was developed by the Department of Agriculture and Rural Affairs, Potato Research Station, Toolangi, in Victoria. Mostly round with moderately deep eyes, it has purple skin and white flesh. It has very good culinary qualities and will mash, bake, make very good chips and is excellent for gnocchi.

Pink Eye: Small irregular roundish potatoes with pink-mauve skin, the pink being more prominent around the eyes, with a yellow flesh. They will cook in much the same way as Patrone.

Pink Fir Apple: Creamy-pink skin, waxy yellow flesh. Boil or bake; very good for salads.

Russet Burbank: A long, oval potato, brown skin with chocolate and red tones, and white flesh. Excellent for baking and chips (used by that famous hamburger franchise), and similar to the famous American Idaho potato.

Do not buy any variety of potato that has green skin or flesh. Potatoes should feel very firm, and have a faint earthy smell. Buy new potatoes in small quantities as you need them, because they do not keep well. Store old potatoes in a cool, dark place; they keep particularly well if they are left unwashed, with earth still clinging to the skins.

Instant mashed potatoes: This convenience food cannot rival freshly cooked potatoes for flavour, but it can be useful when mashed potato is called for as an ingredient. It can also be used as a thickener for soups and stews – simply sprinkle over and stir in.

Potato flour: A thickening agent often used by Continental cooks in soups and gravies, and also in baking.

BOILED NEW POTATOES

Choose small, new potatoes of uniform size with pearly skins.

500 g (1 lb) new potatoes, lightly scraped
2 cups water
pinch salt
2 small sprigs fresh mint (optional)
30 g (1 oz) butter
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh mint, parsley or dill

Bring water to the boil in a saucepan, add potatoes, salt and mint sprigs, if using, and return to a gentle boil. Cover and cook gently for 10–15 minutes, depending on size of potatoes. Drain immediately. Return potatoes to saucepan and shake over low heat until quite dry. Add butter and toss potatoes until each is glistening. Place in heated serving dish and sprinkle with chopped mint, parsley or dill. Serves 4.

NOTE: Omit sprigs of mint in cooking water if garnishing with chopped parsley or dill.

CRISPY OLIVE POTATOES

16 small new potatoes
60 g (2 oz) butter, melted
3 tablespoons flour
1 teaspoon salt
pinch cayenne
1 teaspoon paprika
½ cup chopped stuffed olives

Cook potatoes in boiling salted water until just tender. Drain and peel when cool enough to handle. Toss in melted butter to coat evenly, then coat in flour mixed with salt, cayenne and paprika. Place in a buttered, shallow casserole. Sprinkle with olives and bake in a preheated hot oven (200°C/400°F) for 20 minutes (turn potatoes after first 10 minutes to brown evenly) until piping hot and crispy. Serves 4.

HERBED NEW POTATOES WITH FRESH PEAS

750 g (1½ lb) new potatoes, scraped
1¼ teaspoons salt
1 cup shelled fresh peas
freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons shredded fresh mint or basil
30 g (1 oz) butter
¼ cup cream
parsley to garnish

Cook potatoes in boiling water, with salt, until just tender. Ten minutes before potatoes are completely cooked, add peas. When peas are cooked, remove pan from heat and drain off water. Add pepper, mint or basil, butter and cream and heat a few seconds. Turn into a serving dish and garnish with parsley. Serve immediately. Serves 6.

SUGAR-GLAZED NEW POTATOES

New potatoes taste and look delectable with a caramel coating. Serve with ham, chicken or pork – meats that take well to a sweet sauce or fruit.

500 g (1 lb) new potatoes
45 g (1½ oz) butter
2 tablespoons sugar
salt

Cook potatoes in boiling salted water until just tender. Drain and peel as soon as they are cool enough to handle. Melt butter in a heavy frying pan big enough to take potatoes in a single layer. Add sugar and stir over low heat until a light golden-brown. Add potatoes and cook, stirring, until heated through and evenly coated with glaze. Sprinkle with salt and serve at once. Serves 4.

CREAMY MASHED POTATOES

When cooked sufficiently the potatoes should break under pressure of a fork but not be mushy. Over-cooking or cutting potatoes into small pieces makes them water-soaked and they lose flavour. Always add hot milk for fluffy potatoes as cold makes them sticky.

6 medium potatoes, peeled (halved if large)
salt and freshly ground black pepper
60 g (2 oz) butter
½–1 cup hot milk
nutmeg (optional)

Put potatoes into a saucepan with cold water to cover. Add a little salt and bring to the boil. Cook, covered, for about 20–30 minutes or until potatoes are easily pierced with a skewer. Drain, return to saucepan and shake pan over a low heat for a few minutes until potatoes are thoroughly dry. Mash with a potato masher or fork. Using a wooden spoon beat until very smooth. Add butter to potatoes, then gradually beat in hot milk until potatoes are light and fluffy. Season with salt and pepper, and a pinch of nutmeg, if liked.

To keep hot, after mashing potatoes push them down well in saucepan, packing tightly. Level top, add butter and spoon about 4 tablespoons hot milk over. Cover and leave in a warm place. Before serving beat well, adding more hot milk if necessary. The potatoes will keep hot for up to 20 minutes. Serves 4–6.

VARIATIONS

CHEESE POTATOES: Spread Creamy Mashed Potatoes in a buttered flameproof dish. Sprinkle top generously with grated cheese such as Parmesan, Gruyère or Cheddar and brush with melted butter. Or spread with cream to which grated cheese has been added. Place under a preheated hot grill or in a hot oven until cheese has melted.

POTATOES WITH CHIVES OR SPRING ONIONS: Fold snipped chives or chopped spring onions through Creamy Mashed Potato just before serving.

EGG GRATIN: Divide hot Creamy Mashed Potatoes among 4 greased individual ramekins and make a depression in each one. Drop an egg into each depression, spoon over a little cream, or cream mixed with grated cheese. Bake in a preheated moderately hot oven (190°C/375°F) until eggs are set.

POTATOES WITH ONIONS: Prepare Creamy Mashed Potatoes and keep warm. Melt 60 g (2 oz) butter in a frying pan and cook 3 medium onions, finely sliced, until golden-brown and tender. Sprinkle with ½ teaspoon dried sage, salt and pepper. Gently fold through potatoes and serve.

MOUSSELINE POTATOES (PURÉE OF POTATOES)

750 g (1½ lb) old, floury potatoes, peeled
30 g (1 oz) butter
1¼ cups hot milk
salt and freshly ground black pepper
¼ teaspoon nutmeg

Place potatoes in a large saucepan, cover with cold water and bring to the boil. Cook gently for about 20 minutes or until tender. Drain and cool slightly, then return to the pan 2 or 3 at a time and cook over very gentle heat to dry off any moisture. Rub potatoes through a sieve, or process in a food processor using the double-sided steel blade. Return potatoes to the hot pan, place over gentle heat and gradually beat in butter and hot milk. Continue beating until very smooth and soft. Add salt, pepper and nutmeg and serve immediately. Serves 4.

BAKED JACKET POTATOES

In the USA the Idaho potato is most often chosen for baking. Choose old, floury potatoes for this popular and easy way to serve them.

4 large, even-size baking potatoes
30 g (1 oz) butter, quartered

Scrub potatoes, dry, and pierce each 4–6 times with a skewer. Bake directly on the shelf in a preheated hot oven (200°C/400°F) for about 1 hour, depending on size of potatoes. Test by pressing between fingers. When done, cut a cross on top with a pointed knife and squeeze gently to open. Top with butter. Serves 4.

NOTE: The above method produces crisp skin. If softer skin is required rub all over the surface of potatoes with oil before baking.

TOPPINGS: Add a dollop of sour cream and sprinkle with snipped chives. Crumble crisp fried bacon over sour cream topping. Sprinkle with crisp bacon and grated cheese. Top with butter, grated orange rind and chopped mint.

POTATOES CZARINA

Baked potatoes are scooped out, seasoned, reheated in the jackets and topped with caviar. An unexpected but superb combination which may be served for lunch with a crisp salad, or as a first course before a simple main dish.

6 large baking potatoes
30 g (1 oz) butter
¾ cup sour cream
2 tablespoons snipped chives or finely chopped spring onions
1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley or fresh dill
½ teaspoon nutmeg
salt and freshly ground black pepper
125 g (4 oz) caviar or lumpfish roe, chilled

Scrub potatoes, dry, and pierce each 4–6 times with a skewer. Bake in a preheated hot oven (200°C/400°F) for about 1 hour or until tender when pressed between the fingers. Cut a lid from top of each potato and scoop out pulp with a sharp spoon, being careful not to pierce skins. Place potato shells in turned-off oven to keep warm. Put flesh in saucepan over low heat and add butter, sour cream, chives or spring onions, parsley or dill, nutmeg, salt and pepper. Stir thoroughly with a wooden spoon, mashing pulp and blending ingredients until mixture is piping hot. Arrange potato shells on a heated platter, stuff with seasoned potato, and top each serving with a spoonful of cold caviar. Serves 6.

VARIATION

Potatoes can be topped with crisp cooked bacon instead of caviar.

ROAST POTATOES

Choose potatoes of medium and uniform size. They should be old and slightly waxy for best results. Too small potatoes tend to dry out during roasting.

6 medium potatoes, peeled
salt
oil for roasting

Place potatoes in a saucepan, cover with cold water and bring to the boil. Boil for 5 minutes. Drain and dry well on paper towels. Run the tines of a fork over surface of potatoes and sprinkle very lightly with salt. Put enough oil into a baking dish to come 1 cm (½ in) up the sides. Heat oil, then put in potatoes and roast in a preheated hot oven (200°C/400°F) for 40–50 minutes or until golden and crusty, turning and basting occasionally. Drain on crumpled paper towels and serve hot. Serves 4–6.

NOTE: If you would like to roast potatoes at the same time as a joint of meat, prepare as above then place in the roasting pan alongside the joint during the last 45 minutes to 1 hour of cooking time, turning and basting with pan juices 3 or 4 times.

POTATO CHIPS

French fried potatoes, the popular pommes frites of France, have become equally well liked as potato chips in many other countries. Choose old, dry, slightly waxy potatoes for best results, and cut into uniform lengths and thicknesses. Soak the cut potatoes in cold water before frying to help get rid of some of the starch released when the potatoes are cut. Dry the potatoes well before immersing in hot oil; damp potatoes take longer to cook and become greasy. Care should always be taken when deep-frying to lower the food gently into the hot oil to avoid splashing or overflowing. Do not have the frying container more than half full of oil or the oil will overflow when the chips are added.

4 large, even-size potatoes, peeled
oil for deep-frying
salt

Cut potatoes into 5 cm (2 in) lengths, 1 cm (½ in) wide. Soak for 30 minutes in ice-cold water. Drain and dry well with paper towels. Place enough oil in a deep heavy pan to come not more than halfway up the sides and heat gently to 145°C/300°F or until a bread cube placed in the hot oil turns brown in less than 1 minute. Put potatoes in a frying basket and lower into hot oil. Cook for about 4–5 minutes or until soft but not brown. Lift out. Increase the temperature of the oil to 190°C/375°F or until a bread cube turns brown in 30 seconds. Gently lower chips into hot oil and cook for about 1–2 minutes or until brown and crisp. Drain on crumpled paper towels, sprinkle with salt and serve immediately. Serves 4.

VARIATIONS

MATCHSTICK POTATOES: Cut potatoes into strips the size of matchsticks and proceed as for Potato Chips, frying once only in oil (190°C/375°F) for about 1–2 minutes until crisp and golden.

SHOESTRING POTATOES: Cut potatoes into strips not more than 5 mm (¼ in) thick and proceed as for Potato Chips, frying once only in oil (190°C/375°F) for about 2–3 minutes.

GAME CHIPS

Game chips are the classic accompaniment for game and are sometimes served at Christmas with the festive roast turkey. Game chips should be of uniform shape, thickness and diameter, resembling fine wafers of potato.

2 large potatoes, peeled
oil for deep-frying
salt

Shape potatoes into thick cylinders so each slice will be approximately the same diameter. Slice very finely. Soak slices in ice-cold water for 20 minutes, then drain and dry thoroughly. Heat oil to 200°C/400°F or until a bread cube turns brown in 30 seconds. Place one-quarter of potatoes at a time in a frying basket and lower gently into hot oil. Keep slices moving so that they do not stick together. After 1–2 minutes, slices will float to the surface when they are nearly cooked. When they are golden and crisp, remove and drain on crumpled paper towels. Sprinkle the chips with salt and serve immediately on a folded napkin. Serves 4.

VARIATIONS

SARATOGA CHIPS: These chips are sliced very finely using a vegetable peeler. They should be of a uniform thickness but the diameter of each chip may vary. Soak, dry and fry as for Game Chips.

STRAW POTATOES: Cut potatoes into sticks 3 mm ( in) thick, then into very thin matchsticks, 3 mm ( in) wide. Soak, dry and fry as for Game Chips.

POMMES DE TERRE NOISETTE (NOISETTE POTATOES)

Slightly waxy, yellow or white-fleshed old potatoes are best for this method.

1 kg (2 lb) potatoes, peeled
4 tablespoons butter
salt

Using a melon baller scoop out balls of potato. Keep in cold water until all potatoes have been prepared. Drain and place in a saucepan with fresh cold water to cover. Bring to the boil and simmer for 2 minutes. Drain and dry thoroughly on paper towels. Heat the butter in a frying pan and sauté potatoes, shaking pan occasionally, until they are golden-brown all over. Season with salt. Serve with meat, poultry or fish. Serves 4–6.

SAUTÉ POTATOES

Potatoes for this dish should be old and slightly waxy.

They are boiled whole first then peeled. Serve with fish, chicken or steak.

1 kg (2 lb) potatoes
salt
60 g (2 oz) butter
1 tablespoon oil

Place potatoes in a large saucepan. Cover with cold water and add salt. Cover, bring to the boil and simmer for 15–20 minutes or until just tender. Drain, then peel when cool enough to handle. Cut into thick slices. Heat butter and oil in a heavy frying pan and when foaming add potatoes. Cook briskly, shaking pan and turning potatoes continually. They should never be left to fry. The constant turning gives outside of potatoes a crumbly texture, characteristic of this dish. Sprinkle with salt and serve immediately without draining potatoes. Serves 4–6.

SCALLOPED POTATOES

1 kg (2 lb) old potatoes, peeled and finely sliced
1 clove garlic, halved
90 g (3 oz) butter
salt and freshly ground white pepper
1 cup milk
nutmeg
60 g (2 oz) Gruyère cheese, finely sliced

Dry potato slices thoroughly. Rub a shallow ovenproof dish with cut sides of garlic and smear with 30 g (1 oz) butter. Carefully arrange potato slices in layers in the dish, seasoning each layer with salt and pepper. Scald milk and add a little nutmeg, salt and pepper. Arrange cheese on top of potatoes. Carefully pour over milk and add rest of butter, cut into small pieces. Bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for 40–45 minutes or until tender and golden. Cut in wedges and serve from the dish. Serves 6–8.

SAVOURY POTATO CAKES

These cakes go well with a fresh green salad. Serve them immediately while the outside is still brown and crispy and the inside fluffy.

750 g (1½ lb) potatoes, peeled
60 g (2 oz) butter
salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 rashers bacon, rind removed, finely chopped
3 tablespoons flour
lard or extra butter, if needed, for frying

Cook potatoes in boiling salted water. Drain well, return to heat for a minute or so to dry off, and mash until smooth with butter, salt and pepper. Cook bacon in a heavy frying pan over a medium heat, without extra fat, for 5 minutes. Remove bacon with a slotted spoon. Beat flour into potatoes and mix in bacon. Pat out on a well-floured work surface until about 5 mm (¼ in) thick. Cut into rounds with a floured pastry cutter. Heat bacon fat in frying pan, adding a little lard or butter if needed. Add potato cakes and cook over a medium-high heat for about 2 minutes on each side, until golden-brown. Serve at once. Serves 4.

POTATO CROQUETTES

1 quantity Duchess Potatoes
oil for deep-frying
flour, egg and breadcrumbs to coat

Roll potato mixture into small balls or barrel shapes. Coat with flour, then beaten egg and finally breadcrumbs. Deep-fry for 5–6 minutes and drain on paper towels. If preferred, mould potato mixture into flat cakes, coat with flour, egg and breadcrumbs and shallow-fry in a small amount of butter. Serves 6–8.

GRATIN DAUPHINOIS

The mountain province of Dauphine in France produces excellent potatoes which are used in gratins. The addition of cheese does not play any part in the genuine gratin Dauphinois but is particularly good when the gratin is served with a baked ham or roast beef.

1 kg (2 lb) potatoes, peeled
1 clove garlic, crushed
salt and freshly ground black pepper
nutmeg
125 g (4 oz) Gruyère or Emmenthal Cheese, grated (optional)
1 cup cream
30 g (1 oz) butter

Slice potatoes finely, to about 2 mm (1.16 in) thin. Rub garlic around inside of an ovenproof dish, then grease it well with butter. Arrange potato slices in concentric circles in dish, seasoning each with salt, pepper and nutmeg and sprinkling with grated cheese if using. Pour cream over layers, scatter butter, which has been cut into small pieces, over top and sprinkle with remaining cheese. Bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for 1 hour or until potatoes are tender and top golden and crisp. Serves 6–8.

PAN HAGGERTY

This is a traditional dish from northern England that combines potatoes, onions and cheese. It is hearty enough for a main course if you add a green vegetable or salad.

4 tablespoons oil
1 kg (2 lb) potatoes, peeled and finely sliced
500 g (1 lb) onions, finely sliced
125 g (4 oz) well-flavoured Cheddar cheese, grated
salt and freshly ground black pepper
butter
finely chopped parsley

You will need a large frying pan with a heavy base and a well-fitting lid for this dish. Heat oil in the pan and put in layers of potatoes, onions and cheese, seasoning each layer with salt and pepper and beginning and ending with potatoes. Put lid on pan and cook over gentle heat for about 20–30 minutes or until underside is crisp and brown and vegetables are tender. Dot top of potatoes with butter and place pan under a preheated grill for a few minutes until top is browned. Serve on a heated platter, cut in wedges like a pie and sprinkle with parsley. Serves 6–8.

SOUR CREAM POTATO CAKES

A lighter alternative to savoury potato cakes.

3 large boiled potatoes, coarsely grated (enough to make 2 cups)
1 teaspoon salt
freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons snipped chives or finely chopped spring onions
1 cup flour, sifted
about 1 cup sour cream
60 g (2 oz) butter
chopped parsley or chives

Combine grated potatoes with salt, pepper, chives or spring onions and flour in a large bowl. Stir in enough sour cream to make a soft dough, about the same consistency as scone dough. Roll or pat out on a lightly floured work surface to a thickness of about 1 cm (½ in). Cut into rounds with a floured 5 cm (2 in) scone cutter. Heat butter in a large, heavy frying pan and brown potato cakes for about 3 minutes on each side. Serve at once, sprinkled with a little parsley or chives. Serves 6.

POTATOES ANNA

This is a round ‘cake’ of thinly sliced potatoes, which is turned out and cut into wedges for serving. In kitchenware shops a special Anna tin is available, but you can get good results using a small, heavy frying pan. Choose potatoes of the same size, to give even rounds.

1 kg (2 lb) old potatoes, peeled and finely sliced
90 g (3 oz) butter
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Dry potato slices well. Rub frying pan generously with butter and arrange a layer of potatoes in neat, overlapping circles. Season with salt and pepper and dot with small pieces of butter. Arrange another layer of potato slices on top, with more seasoning and butter, and continue until potatoes and butter are used up. Place pan on top of stove over low heat, cover with buttered greaseproof paper and a lid, and cook gently for 20 minutes. Remove lid and paper, transfer pan to a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F). Continue cooking for 30–40 minutes or until potatoes are brown and crusty on the bottom and cooked through when tested with a skewer. Rest for 1–2 minutes, then invert potatoes onto a heated platter. Cut in wedges to serve. Serves 6–8.

POTATOES IN WHITE WINE WITH ANCHOVIES

Serve this simple appetiser at room temperature for the best flavour. Perfect for summer brunches.

6 large, old potatoes
¼ cup dry white wine
2 tablespoons wine vinegar
cup olive oil
freshly ground black pepper
2 × 50 g cans rolled anchovy fillets, drained
coriander leaves or flat-leaved parsley to garnish

Place potatoes in a saucepan, cover with cold water and bring to the boil. Simmer until tender. Drain and peel when cool enough to handle. Cut into thick slices and put in a serving bowl. Sprinkle with wine and cool to room temperature. Combine vinegar, olive oil and pepper and pour over potatoes. Scatter anchovies over potatoes and garnish with coriander leaves or parsley. Serves 6–8.

RÖSTI

Rösti is the national Swiss potato dish made in the shape of a thick, crispy, golden-brown cake. Sometimes the Rösti is flavoured with crisp bacon and sometimes with onion. It is cut in ample wedges and served with all meat dishes or with fried eggs for breakfast.

1.5 kg (3 lb) old potatoes
½ teaspoon salt
125 g (4 oz) speck or smoked bacon, diced
30 g (1 oz) butter

Place potatoes in a saucepan and cover with cold salted water. Bring to the boil and cook for about 10 minutes. Drain and peel when cool enough to handle. Grate potatoes. Fry speck or bacon in half the butter in a heavy frying pan. Cook gently until bacon fat is transparent. Spread potatoes in frying pan to form a thick cake. Cook over a low heat for about 10 minutes. Slip a knife or spatula under potato cake occasionally to ensure underside is not becoming too brown. Turn cake out onto a large plate. Add remaining butter to frying pan and when foam has subsided slide potato cake back into it. Cook over a gentle heat for 8 minutes, making sure it does not become too brown. Turn out onto a large heated dish and serve. Serves 6.

NOTES: The Rösti can be browned quickly on both sides over a high heat and then placed in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for 20 minutes to finish cooking. Rösti will keep for about 30 minutes in a warm oven, if necessary.

VARIATION

If making a simple Rösti without speck or bacon, heat 3 tablespoons olive oil in the frying pan before adding the butter. To add onions to Rösti, cook 2 chopped onions in oil and butter until they become transparent, then add potatoes.

HOT POTATO SALAD

2 rashers streaky bacon, rind removed
1 onion, chopped
1 tablespoon flour
¼ cup white vinegar
½ cup water
¼ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon sugar
freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons mild mustard
4 medium potatoes, peeled, boiled and sliced
chopped parsley

Fry bacon until crisp. Remove from pan with tongs, crumble and set aside. Cook onion in bacon fat until soft and lightly browned. Blend in flour, then stir in bacon, vinegar, water, salt, sugar, pepper and mustard. Bring to the boil, stirring well. Add potatoes, tossing to coat lightly, and heat through. Sprinkle with parsley and serve hot, or let cool, store in refrigerator and reheat before serving. Serves 4.

VARIATION

HOT POTATO SALAD WITH PIQUANT

MUSTARD DRESSING: Make Hot Potato Salad, using Dijon mustard instead of mild mustard and adding a pinch of cayenne to vinegar dressing. If liked, garnish with snipped chives instead of parsley.

CREAMY POTATO SALAD WITH HAM

This may be served as a first course at dinner, or as the main course for lunch. Cold sliced tongue, corned beef or any of the Continental-type sausages can replace the more expensive ham.

500 g (1 lb) new potatoes
3 tablespoons oil
1 tablespoon vinegar
1 small onion, finely chopped
salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ cup Mayonnaise
½ cup sour cream
3 thick slices cooked ham or tongue, cut into julienne (matchstick) strips
chopped parsley
1–2 canned pimientos, drained and cut into strips (optional)

Cook potatoes in boiling salted water until just tender. Peel while hot and cut into thick slices. Put oil, vinegar and onion in a bowl, beat until thick and season with salt and pepper. Add warm potatoes, folding them into dressing. Allow to cool. Combine mayonnaise and sour cream in another bowl and lightly fold into potatoes. Turn into a salad bowl. Arrange ham or tongue on top of potatoes. Sprinkle with chopped parsley to serve, and, if liked, strips of red pimiento. This salad is best served at room temperature. Serves 4.

POTATO SALAD

1 kg (2 lb) new or old potatoes
½ cup Vinaigrette Dressing
1 tablespoon snipped chives to garnish

If using tiny new potatoes, scrape skins with a small sharp knife, plunge them into boiling salted water and cook until tender. If using large older potatoes, cover with cold salted water, bring to the boil and simmer until tender, then peel and cut into large dice. The potatoes should be moistened with vinaigrette while still warm. To serve, pile into a bowl and garnish with chives. Best served at room temperature. Serves 4–6.

POTATO AND CUCUMBER SOUP

4 large old, floury potatoes, peeled and sliced
2¼ cups water
1 onion, sliced
60 g (2 oz) butter
½ tablespoons salt
2 cucumbers, peeled, seeded and diced
1 cup milk
1 cup cream
1 tablespoon caraway seeds

Put potatoes in a large heavy saucepan with water, onion, butter and salt. Bring to the boil, then cover and simmer for 20 minutes or until potatoes are soft. Purée mixture through a food mill, or in several batches in a blender or food processor. Return the mixture to the pan and add cucumber. Scald milk and cream and stir into pan. Bring to the simmer, then stir in caraway seeds and cook for 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Serves 6.

POULTRY

The name given to all domesticated fowl, that is, chicken, duck, goose, turkey, guinea fowl.

See individual entries.

PRALINE

A confection of caramelised sugar and almonds, crushed or ground to a fine powder. Equal quantities of sugar and almonds are used. Sometimes about half the almonds are replaced by hazelnuts, but the method remains the same, as do the uses for the final product.

Praline may be sprinkled on ice cream, a cold or hot soufflé or custard; added to a butter cream or crème pâtissière, to fill cakes and cream puffs; or used to decorate the top and sides of large cakes.

Praline keeps well in an airtight container; it may also be stored frozen.

PRALINE

250 g (8 oz) sugar
250 g (8 oz) whole unblanched almonds

Cook sugar and almonds in a heavy-based saucepan over low heat until sugar melts, turning nuts over to brown evenly. Continue cooking until sugar has become nut-brown in colour. Pour into an oiled tin or plate. Allow to become quite cold and hard, then break into small pieces and crush with a rolling pin, or grind in a blender or nut mill. Store in airtight container. Makes about 1 cup.

CRÈME ANGLAISE AU PRALINER

A rich and creamy stirred custard with a generous topping of praline is one of the most delectable creams. Serve with poached fruit – pears in burgundy, fresh strawberries or raspberries, fresh or poached peaches.

2 tablespoons sugar
4 egg yolks
1 teaspoon cornflour
1 cup cream
cup milk
5 tablespoons Praline

Beat sugar with egg yolks until thick and light-coloured. Stir in cornflour. Bring cream and milk to the boil. Pour a little onto beaten yolks, stirring all the time, then return yolk mixture to saucepan. Cook over a gentle heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until custard thickens and coats back of spoon thinly. Be sure to stir into corners and all over bottom of pan to prevent custard catching and burning. Remove from heat and beat for 2 minutes to help custard cool, then pour into a serving dish. Cool and chill. Just before serving coat top evenly with praline. Serves 6.

PRAWN

Small clawless crustaceans, possibly the most popular of all seafood. Prawns, and their relatives scampi and shrimp, are a delicacy enjoyed by people all over the world. Prawns are delicious eaten freshly boiled, either warm or chilled and served with plenty of brown bread and butter, a squeeze of lemon juice and freshly ground black pepper.

Cooked prawns are used in some recipes but in most cases it is best to use fresh green, or raw, prawns. The delicate flesh of prawns does not stand up to being cooked twice – it will toughen and lose much flavour. The appearance of some deep-sea prawns, such as the royal reds, make them unsuitable for some cold prawn dishes, but they are splendid in many cooked dishes.

To buy: Whether green or freshly boiled, prawns should be whole and undamaged. The heads should be firm and unbroken and the tails unsquashed and intact. Green prawns should be washed and free of any mud, and the flesh firm and translucent. The colour of cooked prawns varies according to the variety. Some are rich red while others turn a pale pink. Green or cooked prawns should each be stored by the fishmonger with plenty of crushed ice mixed through them; they should be reminiscent of the sea, with a mild, prawny smell.

To clean: Remove the head, shell, legs and tail (unless recipe specifies otherwise).Remove the black vein, which may be gritty, particularly in the larger prawns, by slitting along the back and pulling it out.

To boil: Wash thoroughly, then put into a large container of briskly boiling seawater, or fresh water with 2 teaspoons salt added to it for each 1 kg (2 lb) prawns. Too much salt will toughen the prawns. Boil for 2–3 minutes or until the prawns rise to the surface. Remove immediately, cool quickly in fresh cold water, drain and mix with crushed ice. Or, if you prefer, eat them while still warm with plenty of freshly ground black pepper, brown bread and butter and lemon juice.

Frozen and canned prawns: Choose untorn, well-wrapped packs without clumps of ice on the package. Prawns coated with breadcrumbs and frozen ready for cooking do not have to be thawed before frying. Use frozen or canned prawns in sauces, fillings and stuffing.

See also Garlic Prawns and Prawn Curry.

PRAWN COCKTAIL

A 1960s dish enjoying a revamp.

½ cup tomato purée
2 drops Tabasco sauce
½ teaspoon lemon juice
2–3 tablespoons cream
shredded lettuce
1 kg (2 lb) medium prawns, cooked, shelled and de-veined
thin buttered brown bread
4 lemon wedges

Combine tomato purée, Tabasco sauce, lemon juice and cream. Placed shredded lettuce in 4 individual dishes, arrange prawns on top and spoon sauce over. Serve with triangles of buttered bread and wedges of lemon. Serves 4.

ORANGE, AVOCADO AND PRAWN SALAD

This luxury salad would make a good main course for a small dinner party, yet takes only 10 minutes or so to put together. Heat bread rolls or crusty bread in the oven to serve with the salad.

2 ripe avocados, peeled, stoned and sliced lengthways
2 large oranges
500 g (1 lb) prawns, cooked, shelled and de-veined
4 sticks celery, chopped
1 tablespoon snipped chives
2 cos or 1 head of lettuce
8–10 walnut halves

French dressing

2 tablespoons lemon juice
6 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon chopped fresh oregano, or pinch dried
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Mix all ingredients for dressing together by shaking in a screw-top container. Pour half over sliced avocados. Peel oranges, removing outside membrane, and cut between membranes to remove skinless segments. Combine prawns, oranges, celery and chives. Line a large bowl with lettuce leaves. Place prawn mixture in centre and arrange avocado slices and walnut halves over it. At the table, pour remaining dressing over salad and toss lightly to combine. Serves 4.

PRAWN AND GRAPEFRUIT SALAD

1 kg (2 lb) prawns, cooked, shelled and de-veined
lettuce leaves
½ cup julienne (matchstick) strips celery
½ cup julienne strips red pepper
¼ cup julienne strips shallots
2 tablespoons lime or lemon juice
salt and freshly ground black pepper
¾ cup Mayonnaise
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
2 grapefruit, segmented
16 cherry tomatoes, or 4 small tomatoes, quartered

Chill prawns until ready to serve. Arrange lettuce leaves on 4 small serving plates and top with prawns. Sprinkle over celery, red pepper and shallots, reserving some for garnish. Season with lime or lemon juice, salt and pepper. Thin mayonnaise carefully with a little boiling water to make a light coating consistency. Spoon over salad. Sprinkle with reserved vegetables and parsley, then arrange grapefruit segments and tomatoes around top. Serves 4.

SUGAR-ROASTED PRAWNS

A popular dish on Chinese restaurant menus.

12 large green king prawns
peanut oil
4 thin slices fresh ginger, finely chopped
4 spring onions (with some green tops), finely chopped
½ cup chicken stock
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon chilli powder
½ cup sugar
2 teaspoons sesame oil
coriander sprigs or shredded spring onions to garnish

Remove legs and feelers from prawns, leaving on heads and shells. Heat enough peanut oil in a wok or large, heavy frying pan to come to a depth of 5 cm (2 in). Cook prawns in hot oil for 3–4 minutes or until they turn pink. Drain prawns. Pour off oil from pan to leave only a thin film. Stir-fry ginger and spring onions until the aroma is released, about 30 seconds, then pour in the chicken stock and add salt, chilli powder and sugar. Cook over a very high heat, so liquid reduces rapidly. When the mixture starts to caramelise, turn heat to low and add prawns, stirring and turning them over in caramel so they are well coated. Sprinkle with sesame oil, and stir through. Serve at once, garnished with coriander sprigs or shredded spring onions. Serves 4.

COLD PRAWNS IN DILL SAUCE

A Scandinavian way with prawns.

1 kg (2 lb) medium green prawns
½ cup lemon juice
1 teaspoon dried dill
1 small onion, grated
2 teaspoons sugar
1 teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon ground allspice
thinly sliced buttered rye bread to serve
sprigs fresh dill and lemon wedges to garnish

Cook prawns in boiling salted water to cover. As soon as they turn pink, drain, reserving ¾ cup of the liquid. Mix liquid with lemon juice, dill, onion, sugar, salt and allspice. Shell prawns, leaving on tail segments, and de-vein. Place in a bowl and pour sauce over. Cover and chill overnight. To serve, arrange in an attractive bowl and garnish with dill sprigs and lemon wedges. Serve with buttered rye bread. Serves 4–6.

NOTE: Cooked prawns may be used instead of green prawns. Peel, reserving shells and heads. Simmer shells and heads for 2 minutes in 1 cup water with a pinch of salt. Strain and use this liquid for the sauce.

PRAWN AND MUSHROOM VOL-AU-VENT

8 × 8 cm (3 in) vol-au-vent cases, bought or home-made
60 g (2 oz) button mushrooms, sliced
45 g (1½ oz) butter
250 g (8 oz) shelled, cooked prawns, de-veined
2 cups hot Béchamel Sauce
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
2–3 drops Tabasco sauce
2–3 teaspoons lemon juice
salt and freshly ground black pepper
sprigs parsley to garnish

Heat pastry cases in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for 5–10 minutes. Meanwhile, gently fry mushrooms in butter for 1 minute, then stir in prawns and heat through. Add to the hot sauce with chopped parsley, Tabasco, lemon juice, salt and pepper. Spoon sauce into warm pastry cases. Garnish each with a sprig of parsley. Serves 8.

PRAWN CUTLETS

12 green king prawns
2 eggs
1 tablespoon soy sauce
salt
cornflour
fine dry breadcrumbs
oil for deep-frying
lemon wedges to garnish

Shell prawns, leaving tails intact, and de-vein. Using a sharp knife, slit prawns down back, being careful not to cut right through. Beat eggs with soy sauce and salt. Dip prawns in cornflour to coat lightly, then into egg mixture and lastly in breadcrumbs. Press cut sides of prawns gently with palm to flatten. Deep-fry ‘cutlets’ in hot oil for about 5 minutes or until golden, taking care not to overcrowd the pan. Drain on paper towels and serve immediately, garnished with lemon wedges. Serves 2–4.

POTTED PRAWNS

A traditional English favourite.

185 g (6 oz) butter
500 g (1 lb) green prawns, shelled, de-veined and chopped
¼ teaspoon ground mace
¼ teaspoon nutmeg
pinch of cayenne
1 teaspoon ground mixed spice
freshly ground black pepper

Melt butter in a large frying pan and add prawns, mace, nutmeg, cayenne, mixed spice and pepper. Toss in butter for a few minutes until cooked. Spoon prawns and butter into small soufflé dish or 6 individual pots. Press down lightly, then cover with foil and chill overnight. Serve with Melba Toast. Serves 6.

KING PRAWNS IN SHELL WITH TOMATO SAUCE

If you are serving this dish the authentic Chinese way, with the heads and shells intact, don’t forget finger bowls and plenty of paper napkins, or set each diner’s place with a rolled, moist towel in its own little bamboo basket.

1 kg (2 lb) green king prawns
2 tablespoons oil
2 tablespoons Chinese rice wine or dry sherry
1 teaspoon sesame oil

Sauce

1½ tablespoons tomato sauce
1 tablespoon chilli sauce
pinch salt
¼ teaspoon sugar
2 tablespoons chicken stock
1 tablespoon shredded fresh ginger
½ teaspoon cornflour
2 teaspoons water

If prawns are very large, cut each in half. Rinse lightly and dry thoroughly. Heat a wok or frying pan, add oil and stir-fry prawns for about 2 minutes or until a good red colour. Sprinkle with wine or sherry.

To make sauce, combine ingredients in a bowl, add to prawns, cover and bring to the boil. Reduce heat and simmer gently for 3–4 minutes. Add sesame oil for a final touch and serve hot. Serves 4.

NOTE: You may shell the prawns, removing heads but leaving tail shells intact, and de-vein before cooking.

PRAWNS WITH RÉMOULADE SAUCE

A delightfully piquant dressing makes prawns a special treat.

1 kg (2 lb) prawns, cooked, shelled and de-veined
2 tablespoons chopped dill pickle or gherkin
1 tablespoon chopped capers
1 cup Mayonnaise
1½ teaspoons mustard
1 tablespoon chopped chives or parsley

Arrange prawns on a chilled plate. Combine remaining ingredients and pile in a bowl. Chill until serving time. Serve prawns and sauce with crisp salad greens and thin buttered brown bread, if liked. Serves 4.

BRAISED PRAWNS WITH SNOW PEAS

750 g (1½ lb) green prawns, shelled and de-veined
1 tablespoon Chinese rice wine or dry sherry
1 teaspoon cornflour
1 teaspoon soy sauce
125 g (4 oz) snow peas
5–6 tablespoons oil

Seasonings

1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon soy sauce

If prawns are large, cut in half. Put into bowl with wine or sherry, cornflour and soy sauce. Mix well, then cover and chill for at least 30 minutes. String snow peas, if necessary. Mix all ingredients for seasoning together. Heat 4 tablespoons oil in a wok or frying pan and cook prawns, stirring over a high heat until colour changes. Remove. Add a further 1–2 tablespoons oil to wok and stir-fry snow peas for 2 minutes. Return prawns to wok and add seasonings. Toss until heated through, and serve immediately. Serves 4.

SCANDINAVIAN PRAWNS

1 cup dry white wine
2 tablespoons fresh chopped dill, or 2 teaspoons dried
2 sticks celery, chopped
1 teaspoon salt
750 g (1½ lb) green prawns
sour cream or Mayonnaise to serve

Place wine, dill, celery and salt in a saucepan and bring to the boil. Drop in prawns. Stir until prawns take on a pink tinge, then cover and simmer gently for 2–3 minutes. Allow to cool in the liquid. Shell and de-vein. Serve chilled, with a bowl of sour cream or mayonnaise. Fresh dill may be snipped over prawns to garnish. Serves 4–6 as a main course with rice, or 8–10 as an appetiser without rice.

PRAWN BISQUE

250 g (8 oz) cooked prawns
30 g (1 oz) butter
1 tablespoon flour
4 cups Fish Stock or water
¼ teaspoon paprika
¼ teaspoon salt
½ cup cream
2 tablespoons dry sherry
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon chopped parsley and 1 tablespoon snipped chives to garnish

Shell and de-vein prawns, reserving heads and shells. Melt butter in a saucepan and sauté prawn heads and shells for 5 minutes. Sprinkle with flour and pound well with a wooden spoon. Add fish stock or water, paprika and salt. Bring to the boil and simmer for 10 minutes, then strain. Reserve a few prawns for garnish and place remaining prawns and strained stock in blender or food processor. Blend or process until smooth. Heat prawn mixture gently, stirring continuously, then add cream, sherry, salt and pepper. Do not let soup boil. Serve immediately, garnished with reserved prawns, chopped, and parsley and chives. Serves 6.

NOTE: If you do not have a blender or food processor, chop prawns very finely before adding to strained stock.

DEVILLED BARBECUED PRAWNS

1 kg (2 lb) green prawns
2 tablespoons butter
1 small green pepper, cored, seeded and diced
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
few drops Tabasco sauce
1 tablespoon Mango Chutney
1 teaspoon tomato paste
2 teaspoons barbecue sauce
2 spring onions, chopped
¼ teaspoon cayenne
salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ cup cream

Shell prawns, leaving heads on, and de-vein. Melt butter in a saucepan and sauté green pepper for 1 minute. Add remaining ingredients, except cream and prawns, and cook, stirring, over low heat for 1–2 minutes or until amalgamated. Remove from heat and stir in cream. Barbecue or grill prawns, brushing liberally with sauce during cooking. Serve with rice, or without as an appetiser. Serves 4–6.

PROFITEROLE

Profiteroles are small choux pastry puffs with a sweet or savoury filling. They make superb party savouries or glamorous desserts or can star at afternoon tea. Tiny profiteroles, filled or unfilled, are an elegant accompaniment to clear soup.

Cocktail-size Profiteroles (to serve with drinks or to accompany soup): Make mounds of pastry about 2 cm (¾ in) in diameter, and bake for 10 minutes in a very hot oven (230°C/450°F), then for about 10 minutes more at moderate (180°C/350°F). Dry out in turned-off oven with door ajar for 20 minutes.

Tiny Unfilled Puffs (to accompany soup): Make dots of pastry by squeezing it from a piping bag fitted with a plain 5 mm (¼ in) tube and cutting off in 5 mm (¼ in) lengths. Bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for about 10 minutes or until crisp and brown. Dry out in turned-off oven with door ajar for 20 minutes.

Cream Puffs: Make mounds of pastry about 4 cm (1½ in) in diameter and bake for 10 minutes in a very hot oven (230°C/450°F), then 20–25 minutes at moderate (180°C/350°F). Cover loosely with a sheet of foil if puffs brown too much before they feel firm and light in the hand. Slit sides and return to turned-off oven with door ajar for 30 minutes to dry out.

NOTE: Crème pâtissière fillings may be added to sweet profiteroles 1–2 hours ahead of time, but whipped cream fillings should not be added more than 30 minutes ahead or profiteroles may go soggy.

Cold fillings which do not contain cream may be added 1–2 hours ahead of time; those with cream should not be added more than 30 minutes ahead, or profiteroles may go soggy. Hot fillings may be added at the last minute and the filled profiteroles placed in the oven for a few minutes if necessary to ensure they are very hot. If you are making cocktail-size profiteroles, the filling may be put in cold and heated in the shells. Place them in one layer on a baking tray, in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for about 20–25 minutes.

Fill with one of the following to serve cold with drinks or soup:

• Softened pâté.

• Mashed salmon or finely chopped cooked ham, chicken or prawns, mixed with enough Mayonnaise to bind.

• Softened blue cheese mashed with a little cream.

• Caviar mixed with a little sour cream and onion juice.

• Chopped roast beef mixed with enough Béarnaise Sauce to bind.

• Avocado mashed with a little cream cheese, lemon juice and seasonings.

• Finely chopped smoked salmon or other flaked, smoked fish mixed with cream cheese and seasoned with pepper and lemon juice.

Fill with one of the following to serve hot with drinks or in cream puff–sized shells as a first course:

• Chopped cooked spinach, flaked crab, chopped prawns or asparagus, mixed with Mornay Sauce.

• Chopped cooked chicken, ham, brains, sweetbreads or seafood, fried mushrooms or Duxelles mixed with Béchamel Sauce or Velouté Sauce (p.565).

• Sautéed chicken livers and golden shallots in a sauce made in the pan with cream and a little sherry, thickened with cornflour.

BASIC PROFITEROLES

1 quantity sweetened or unsweetened Choux Pastry
1 egg
pinch salt

Using a piping bag fitted with a 1 cm (½ in) plain tube, pipe choux pastry into small, high mounds, well apart, on a lightly greased baking tray. Pipe each mound with one steady pressure, and release pressure before lifting bag away, to avoid a long tail. Alternatively, take spoonfuls of the pasty and push off onto baking tray. Do not try to change shape of choux pastry when putting it out, or it will rise in bumpy shapes instead of round ones. For 5 cm (2 in) profiteroles, make mounds about 3 cm (1¼ in) in diameter. Beat egg with salt and brush over pastry mounds, pushing down tails (egg glaze may be omitted if puffs are to be iced; just push down tails with a damp finger).

Bake in a preheated very hot oven (230°C/450°F) for 10 minutes. Reduce heat to moderate (180°C/350°F) and bake for 15–20 minutes more or until profiteroles are golden-brown, firm and light in the hand. If pastry is becoming too brown before it is cooked through, cover loosely with a sheet of foil. Make a slit or hole with the point of a knife in the side of each profiterole. Return to turned-off oven and leave with door ajar for 20 minutes to ensure that puffs are thoroughly dried out (this is the secret of puffs that will hold their shape without collapsing). Cool on a wire rack. Fill by piping filling through the holes in the sides, or by carefully cutting off tops with a serrated knife, spooning in filling and replacing lids. Unfilled profiteroles will keep in an airtight container for 1–2 weeks. Makes about 16 × 5 cm (2 in) profiteroles.

PROFITEROLES AU CHOCOLAT (CHOCOLATE PROFITEROLES)

16 × 5 cm (2 in) Basic Profiteroles
½ cup cream, whipped with 2 teaspoons icing sugar and a few drops vanilla essence, or ¾ cup Crème Pâtissière
sifted icing sugar
Hot chocolate sauce
185 g (6 oz) dark chocolate
6 tablespoons water
1 tablespoon rum or brandy (optional)

Fill profiteroles with whipped cream or crème pâtissière. Pile them into a serving dish and sift a little icing sugar over the top.

To make hot chocolate sauce, break chocolate into pieces and place in a heatproof bowl with water and rum or brandy, if using. Set bowl over a saucepan of simmering water and stir until chocolate melts. Cook for 1 minute longer, then pour into a heated jug and serve with profiteroles. Serves 6–8.

VARIATION

CHOCOLATE PROFITEROLES FOR AFTERNOON TEA: Fill profiteroles as described, then dip tops into Chocolate Glaze. Place on a wire rack to set. Omit chocolate sauce.

PROFITEROLES À L’ORANGE (ORANGE PROFITEROLES)

3 sugar cubes
1 orange
½ cup cream
2 teaspoons brandy (optional)
16 × 5 cm (2 in) Basic Profiteroles
90 g (3 oz) caster sugar

Rub sugar cubes over rind of orange until sugar is saturated with orange oils. Squeeze juice from half the orange, and pound sugar cubes with 2 teaspoons of the juice until dissolved. Whip cream with this orange syrup and brandy. Use to fill profiteroles. To make toffee topping, place caster sugar in a small, heavy saucepan and cook slowly, tilting pan frequently from side to side so that sugar heats evenly, until it melts and caramelises to a golden-brown. Dip base of saucepan in cold water to stop further cooking. Dip top of each profiterole in toffee and place on a wire rack to set. Serves 6–8.

PROFITEROLES PRALINÉES (PRALINE PROFITEROLES)

½ cup cream
¼ cup Crème Pâtissière
2 tablespoons Praline
16 × 5 cm (2 in) Basic Profiteroles
icing sugar

Whip cream and mix with crème pâtissière and praline. Fill profiteroles and sift a little icing sugar over tops. Serves 6–8.

COFFEE PROFITEROLES

1 teaspoon instant coffee powder
2 teaspoons hot water
½ cup cream
2 teaspoons icing sugar, sifted
2 teaspoons brandy or whisky (optional)
16 × 5 cm (2 in) Basic Profiteroles
1 quantity Coffee Glacé Icing

Dissolve coffee in hot water and allow to cool. Whip cream with icing sugar, coffee and brandy or whisky, if using. Fill profiteroles, and ice tops with coffee glacé icing. Serves 6–8.

CREAM PUFFS

These are delicate little puffs of feather-light choux pastry, filled with sweetened whipped cream. Alternatively, use Crème Pâtissière.

1 cup cream
icing sugar, sifted
few drops vanilla essence
12 Basic Profiteroles

Whip cream with 1 tablespoon icing sugar and vanilla. Fill shells and sift more icing sugar over the tops. Makes 12.

PROSCIUTTO

The general Italian term for ham, although it has come to refer more particularly to raw, uncooked ham (prosciutto crudo).

Prosciutto is made throughout Italy (and the same method is followed in many other countries), but the prosciutto of Parma has the highest reputation. It is traditionally prepared in the cold months of the year; proscuitto is cut from the hind thigh of the pig, salted, then allowed to dry for about 12–18 months.

A good prosciutto should be a deep, rosy pink colour, with a thin edge of white fat; it should be quite firm and dry. It is usually cut in paper-thin slices, since it contains very little moisture and its flavour is quite intense. It is often served as an antipasto or hors d’oeuvre, either by itself or accompanied by fresh ripe figs or melon. It may also be used with pasta, in which case thicker slices are required.

See also Ham.

PROSCIUTTO CON MELONE (RAW HAM WITH MELON)

There is no substitute for the delicate flavour of raw smoked ham. It combines exquisitely with the sweetness of ripe cantaloupe (rockmelon) or honeydew melon and, when in season, ripe figs.

1 ripe melon, chilled
6–8 paper-thin slices prosciutto

Seed and cut melon into 6–8 slices. Serve each portion of melon with a slice of prosciutto draped over it. Serves 6–8.

PRUNE

Any kind of dried plum. Certain varieties of plums are particularly suitable for drying. Prunes should be black and shiny, with a moist, dark, sweet flesh. They may often be eaten or used for cooking without any preliminary soaking, but soaking will soften them and reduce cooking time. Red or white wine may be used to give a slightly different flavour, and soaking in weak tea is said to enhance the prunes’ flavour.

A simple dish of stewed prunes may be offered for breakfast or as a dessert, and many more elaborate desserts are based on prunes. Halved prunes may be added to a plain cake, a steamed pudding or a custard in place of raisins or sultanas, and the inclusion of nicely plumped prunes in a winter fruit salad makes a welcome change.

The rich flavour of prunes also combines well with meats such as pork and rabbit. In Germany, prunes are often associated with goose – for example, in a stuffing with apples, with goose giblets or with haricot beans or lentils, to accompany goose or duck.

Large stoned dessert prunes may be stuffed with a whole almond or walnut, with almond paste or fondant, or with ground walnuts, sweetened with sugar or honey. Overnight soaking in port or Madeira beforehand will add a delightfully subtle difference to their flavour.

PORK WITH PRUNES

500 g (1 lb) large dessert prunes
1½ cups white wine
6 thick pork chops, trimmed of rind and excess fat
flour
salt and freshly ground black pepper
30 g (1 oz) butter
1 tablespoon redcurrant jelly
1 cup cream
squeeze lemon juice

Soak prunes overnight in wine. The next day, drain off ¼ cup wine and reserve. Simmer prunes very gently in remaining wine until they are soft. Remove stones. Lightly flour chops and season with salt and pepper. Brown on both sides in butter, then add reserved wine, cover and simmer gently for about 40 minutes.

Drain prunes, and add liquid to pan. Cook for about 3 minutes, then remove chops to heated serving dish. Arrange prunes with chops. Reduce pan liquid, then add redcurrant jelly and gradually stir in cream. Adjust seasoning, add lemon juice and pour sauce over chops. Serves 6.

PRUNE MOUSSE

500 g (1 lb) prunes, stoned
grated rind and juice 1 orange
grated rind and juice 1 lemon
1 tablespoon port
3 teaspoons powdered gelatine
2 egg whites
½ cup caster sugar
whipped cream to decorate

Cook prunes in water to cover until tender. Purée in a blender or push through sieve. If necessary, add a little water to make 1½ cups purée. Set aside ¼ cup orange juice. Add remaining juices, rinds and port to purée. Soften gelatine in reserved juice, then dissolve over gentle heat. Add to purée and chill until starting to thicken. Beat egg whites until stiff, and gradually beat in sugar. Fold meringue into prune mixture. Spoon into individual dishes or large serving bowl and chill for at least 1 hour. Decorate with whipped cream before serving. Serves 6.

PRUNE HORS D’OEUVRE

boiling water or hot black tea (optional)
large dessert prunes
walnut or pecan halves
rashers lean bacon, rind removed

Soak prunes in boiling water or hot black tea for 15 minutes, if desired. Drain, remove stones and stuff with nuts. Wrap in bacon and secure with wooden toothpicks. Grill, turning frequently, or bake in a preheated hot oven (200°C/400°F) for 7–10 minutes or until bacon is crisp. Drain on paper towels and serve hot.

PRUNE TART

3 cups boiling water
1 teaspoon tea leaves
500 g (1 lb) large dessert prunes
1 quantity Rich Shortcrust Pastry
1 egg
½ cup cream
1 teaspoon cornflour
¼ cup caster sugar
2 tablespoons Grand Marnier or Cointreau
30 g (1 oz) butter

Pour boiling water over tea and leave to steep for 5 minutes then drain. Soak prunes in weak tea for 4 hours. Drain and remove stones. Roll out pastry dough to about 5 mm (¼ in) thick. Line 23 cm (9 in) tart tin, and arrange prunes in tin. Bake in a preheated hot oven (200°C/400°F) for about 15 minutes. Meanwhile, beat egg with cream, cornflour, caster sugar and liqueur. Pour mixture over prunes, dot with butter and bake for 10–15 minutes longer. Serve warm or cold with cream. Serves 6–8.

PUDDINGS

See Desserts and Puddings.

PUFF PASTRY

See Pastry.

PUFTALOON (FRIED SCONE)

It seems that puftaloons are particular to Australia, where, traditionally, they are eaten hot with golden syrup or treacle. Puftaloons are a type of scone dough fried in plenty of hot dripping or a light vegetable oil.

PUFTALOONS

2 cups self-raising flour
½ teaspoon salt
30 g (1 oz) butter
cup milk
oil for deep-frying

Sift flour and salt into a bowl. Rub in butter. Make a well in centre and mix in milk, adding more milk if necessary to make a soft dough. Knead lightly, then roll out on a floured work surface to 1 cm (½ in) thickness. Cut into rounds with a 4 cm (1½ in) cutter. Heat oil in a saucepan or deep-frying pan and fry scones, turning once, until puffed, golden and cooked through. Drain on paper towels and serve hot. Makes about 12.

PULSES: DRIED BEANS, PEAS AND LENTILS

Dried beans, peas and lentils are classified as ‘pulses’, a word taken from the Latin puls or pottage. There are hundreds of varieties of pulses with differing flavours and textures. They are regarded as a good source of protein.

Pulses are readily available from supermarkets, health food stores and delicatessens. They can be stored for up to 1 year in airtight containers, but longer storage will harden them. Buy pulses that are clean and of uniform size and quality. Most are available ready-wrapped, but some can be purchased loose.

Pulses make delicious soups, salads or main course dishes. They are economical, easy to prepare and help stretch the menu.

Types of dried beans:

Haricot or white beans: Smooth, oval beans of which there is more than one variety. Each is virtually interchangeable with another in most recipes. Haricot beans are used in soups, baked bean dishes, stews, with meats and in salads. Varieties of haricot or white beans include:

Navy beans: Excellent in dishes such as Boston baked beans.

Flageolets: Used with lamb dishes in France.

Soissons: Often considered to be the finest haricot beans and used to great effect in the superb cassoulet dishes of France.

Cannellini: The Italian variety of haricot beans and slightly fatter than their French and English equivalents. Cannellini are delicious in soups as well as many dishes from Tuscany, including beans with tuna, served with a garlicky dressing.

Butter beans: Also known as lima beans, and can be large or small. Use the large beans in soups and purées, and the small butter beans in dishes instead of haricot beans or in their own right. Either large or small butter beans are delicious in salads.

Borlotti beans: Pinky-brown, black-speckled beans used in Italian soup-stews, and sometimes mixed with pasta.

Chick peas: Also known as Spanish beans, garbanzo or ceci peas. They are not, strictly speaking, peas. Their nutty flavour and crisp texture are perfect in salads, soups, stews and in many other dishes such as Hummus bi Tahini, a delicious Middle Eastern spread.

Dried chick peas may need soaking for up to 10 hours before cooking, and sometimes need 5–6 hours of gentle simmering to become completely tender. Chick peas can also be purchased canned, which will eliminate the soaking and long cooking processes. Simply drain, rinse and use as specified in your recipe.

Red kidney beans: Kidney-shaped, as their name suggests, and are probably most often associated with Chile Con Carne, or salads. They are also the major component in frijoles refritos (refried beans), one of the basic dishes of Mexico.

Broad beans or fava beans: These are strongly flavoured beans that form the basis of the Middle Eastern dish Falafel, little bean patties flavoured with herbs, garlic and onion.

Mung beans: These can be cooked as for other dried beans, but are probably best used after sprouting, in salads and Chinese dishes (see Bean Sprouts).

Black-eyed peas or beans: Creamy white beans which derive their name from the little black eye, or spot, in the centre. Often served in southern USA with pork and cornbread. Black-eyed peas are the essential ingredient in Hopping John – a mixture of beans, brown rice, bacon and oil.

Soy beans: Highly nutritious, containing complete protein, and used extensively as food and oil, particularly in countries where other sources of complete protein are scarce. Soy bean curds, or tofu, are used in Asian dishes as a meat substitute. Tofu is a rather bland substance that readily takes on flavours from other ingredients in the dish. Soy sauce is made from fermented soy beans. The distinctive flavour of soy beans blends well when used with other beans in recipes.

Basic preparation: When buying in bulk discard any broken or defective beans. Rinse well, until the water runs clear. Packaged beans usually need rinsing only. Most beans need soaking to restore the water lost during drying. The soaking water may be used in most recipes. Soak beans by one of the two methods below:

Quick soaking: Put beans in a large saucepan, add cold water to cover and bring to the boil. Cover pan and cook for 2 minutes; remove from heat. Let stand for 1 hour, then cook according to recipe.

Overnight soaking: Put beans in a large bowl, cover with water and soak for 6–8 hours but no longer or they may ferment.

To cook: Cook beans in the soaking water or fresh water to cover. Cover the saucepan, bring to the boil, reduce heat and simmer for the time stated in the recipe or for 1½ –2 hours (except chick peas, which take longer – up to 5–6 hours). Red kidney beans should boil rapidly for the first 10 minutes of cooking to ensure harmful toxins are destroyed. Stir occasionally, being careful not to break the beans. When ready, they should be tender and hold their shape. Sugar, salt or acids (this includes tomatoes) added to the beans during simmering will toughen them, so add after beans are tender.

If beans are to be used for soups or in baked dishes, they should be cooked until they are just barely tender. Add flavourings such as onion, carrot, celery, bouquet garni, bay leaf, garlic or bacon bones according to the dish.

Most dried beans are also available precooked in cans, which precludes the soaking and long slow cooking. Drain, rinse and use according to recipe.

Types of dried peas:

Split peas: Usually sold packaged, skinned and split; they may be bright green or golden-yellow, and are often used in soups. Rinse thoroughly and soak in cold water overnight unless otherwise specified on the package or in the recipe.

Types of lentils:

Red, brown and green lentils: These need less cooking and preparation than dried peas and beans. The small red lentil needs no pre-soaking and becomes tender after 20 minutes’ cooking. The brown and green lentils take a little longer to cook. Lentils are excellent in purées and soups.

In Germany, brown lentils accompany roast duck, and in France, when cooked with garlic and flavoured with lemon juice, the purée is eaten with pickled (salt) pork. Some lentils can be used in salads.

Dhal: This is the Hindi word for pulses, and most packages labelled ‘dhal’ contain a mixture of lentils with some dried beans and peas. Dhal is most commonly known as a delicious spiced purée served with Indian curries, and most dhal recipes will take about 45 minutes to cook.

Dried beans

BOSTON BAKED BEANS

2 cups small white haricot beans, soaked in water overnight
125 g (4 oz) pickled (salt) pork or speck, cut into 2.5 cm (1 in) strips
2 teaspoons dry mustard
½ cup firmly packed brown sugar
cup dark molasses
1 teaspoon salt

Drain beans, reserving soaking liquid. Place one-third of salt pork or speck in bottom of an ovenproof casserole and add drained beans. Blend together mustard, brown sugar and molasses with reserved soaking liquid and pour over beans. Cut several gashes in remaining salt pork or speck and place on top of beans. Cover and bake in a preheated very slow oven (120°C/ 250°F) for about 6 hours, adding extra water as needed. Uncover for final hour of cooking so pork will brown and crisp. Season with salt and pepper. Serves 6–8.

NOTE: If you have a slow cooker this dish is an excellent one to try.

BEANS WITH TUNA

A perfect light lunch dish.

¾ cup dried haricot or cannellini beans, soaked in water overnight and drained
½ cup olive oil
juice 1 lemon
2 cloves garlic, crushed
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 onion, finely sliced
1 × 200 g can solid pack tuna, drained and flaked
chopped parsley

Place beans in a saucepan and cover with fresh cold water. Bring to the boil, then cover and simmer for 2½ hours or until tender. Drain. Mix together olive oil, lemon juice, garlic, salt and pepper and add to hot beans. Stir in onion. Cover and chill for several hours. Fold in tuna, sprinkle with parsley and serve in individual bowls. Serves 4.

CASSOULET

The traditional French meat, sausage and bean casserole.

125 g (4 oz) bacon
750 g (1½ lb) pork spareribs
500 g (1 lb) dried white haricot beans, soaked in water overnight and drained
1 onion, halved
1 bouquet garni
2 cloves garlic, lightly crushed
500 g (1 lb) breast or shoulder of lamb, boned
500 g (1 lb) garlic-flavoured boiling sausage such as clobassi
¾ cup fresh breadcrumbs

Trim rind from bacon and also any rind from pork. Dice bacon. Place beans in a heavy saucepan with bacon, onion, bouquet garni and garlic. Cover with water, bring to the boil and simmer for 1¼ hours. Meanwhile, roast pork spareribs and lamb in a preheated moderately slow oven (160°C/325°F) for 30 minutes. Add whole sausage to beans and simmer for a further 15 minutes. When beans are almost cooked, drain off and reserve liquid, discarding onion, bouquet garni and garlic. Place half the beans in a deep casserole. On top place sausage, thickly sliced, then lamb and pork, cut into serving-size pieces. Cover with the remaining beans and moisten with 1 cup of reserved liquid. Sprinkle breadcrumbs on top. Bake in a very slow oven (120°C/250°F) for 1½ hours, adding more liquid if dish becomes too dry. The breadcrumbs should form a fine golden crust on top by the end of cooking. Serves 6.

QUICK BARBECUED BAKED BEANS

2 tablespoons dark molasses
2 tablespoons spicy mustard
juice ½ lemon
2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
4 cups (2 × 420 g cans) baked beans in tomato sauce
500 g (1 lb) frankfurts, thickly sliced

Combine molasses, mustard, lemon juice and Worcestershire sauce in a saucepan and heat gently. Add beans and frankfurts and simmer for about 10 minutes, or place in a casserole, top with frank-furts and bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/ 350°F) for about 30 minutes. Serves 4–6.

PASTA WITH BEANS

1 cup dried haricot or borlotti beans
4½ cups cold water
3 cups macaroni
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 large onion, chopped
2 large carrots, sliced
1 cup chopped celery
1 clove garlic, crushed
2 cups peeled, chopped tomatoes
1 teaspoon chopped fresh sage
1 teaspoon chopped fresh oregano
salt and freshly ground black pepper
chopped parsley
grated Parmesan cheese

Soak beans in water overnight. Next day, put beans and water into a large saucepan. Bring to the boil, then cover and simmer for 2–3 hours or until beans are tender. Stir several times during cooking. Drain, reserving 2½ cups liquid. Cook macaroni according to directions on packet. Drain. Heat oil in a large heavy saucepan and sauté onion, carrots, celery and garlic until soft but not coloured. Add tomatoes, sage, oregano, salt and pepper. Cover and cook over a gentle heat for 20 minutes. Add beans, macaroni and 1½ cups reserved bean liquid. Bring to the boil, then cover and simmer for 35–40 minutes, stirring occasionally, and adding more bean liquid if necessary. Adjust seasoning. Turn into a serving bowl or casserole and sprinkle with chopped parsley and Parmesan cheese. Serves 8.

CHICK PEAS IN GARLIC OIL

1 cup dried chick peas, or 2 × 375 g cans garbanzos
½ cup olive oil
4 cloves garlic, crushed
salt and freshly ground black pepper
juice 1 lemon
3 tablespoons chopped parsley

If using dried peas, cover with cold water and bring to the boil, then turn off heat. Cover and leave for 1 hour. Drain, cover with fresh cold water and cook, covered, over a low heat for 2–3 hours or until tender. Add a little more water if necessary to prevent sticking. Drain. If using canned peas, drain and rinse in a sieve under cold water before cooking. Heat oil in a frying pan and sauté garlic and chick peas on medium heat until lightly browned, stirring gently from time to time. Season with salt, pepper and lemon juice. Stir in half parsley. Serve hot or at room temperature, sprinkled with remaining parsley. Serves 6–8 as a first course.

CHICK PEA SALAD

1 cup dried chick peas, or 2 × 375 g cans garbanzos
2 small onions, 1 halved and 1 sliced into rings
1 bay leaf
1 clove garlic
1 teaspoon salt
1 orange
2 sticks celery, sliced
½ green or red pepper, cored, seeded and sliced

Dressing

1 tablespoon vinegar
3 tablespoons oil
pinch dry mustard
salt and freshly ground black pepper

If using dried chick peas, soak in water overnight. Next day, drain, place in saucepan, cover with fresh cold water and add halved onion, bay leaf and garlic. Bring to the boil, skimming off any scum that rises to the surface. Cook, covered, over a low heat for 2–3 hours or until tender. Drain, discarding flavourings, add salt and leave to cool. If using canned garbanzos, drain them and rinse in a sieve under cold water. Holding orange over a bowl to catch all the juice, remove all rind and white pith with a serrated knife. Loosen segments by cutting down each side of membranes. Lift out each segment in one piece and remove any seeds. Squeeze core with remaining membrane over segments. This juice may be added to dressing. Mix orange segments, celery, green or red pepper, beans and onion rings. Beat dressing ingredients together until slightly thickened. Pour over salad and toss well. Serves 4.

SPANISH COCIDO

A traditional Spanish soup-stew. Serve in deep soup plates.

500 g (1 lb) dried chick peas
¼ cup olive oil
1 × 1 kg (2 lb) piece chuck steak or breast of veal
3–4 large onions, chopped
2 cloves garlic, crushed
2 tomatoes, quartered
4 carrots, sliced
½ cup chopped parsley
1 ham bone or ham hock (optional)
2 teaspoons salt
2 chorizos (Spanish sausages) or salami, sliced

Place chick peas in a saucepan, cover with water and bring to the boil. Boil for 2 minutes, then remove from heat and soak for 1 hour. Drain. Cover with fresh water and simmer for 1½ hours. Heat oil in a large saucepan and sear meat over high heat. When brown all over, add remaining ingredients and chick peas with their cooking water. Bring slowly to the boil, then cover and simmer for 1½ hours or until chick peas are tender. Add more hot water during cooking if necessary; the peas must be well covered throughout cooking time. To serve, discard ham bone or hock (return meat to soup, if liked), slice meat and spoon chick pea sauce over. Serves 6.

GARBANZO SPREAD

This spread is good for sandwiches or as a dip. Try it in an open-face sandwich with cucumber and tomato slices, or serve with wholemeal cracker biscuits.

1 × 375 g can garbanzos
½ small onion, finely chopped
1 clove garlic, crushed
1 tablespoon oil
¼ cup chopped parsley
1 teaspoon chopped fresh basil, or ¼ teaspoon dried
1 teaspoon chopped fresh oregano, or ¼ teaspoon dried
1 teaspoon ground cumin
lemon juice
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Drain garbanzos, reserving liquid from can, and mash or purée in a food processor. Cook onion and garlic gently in oil until soft. Stir in herbs and cumin and cook for 1 minute longer. Remove from heat and mix in garbanzo purée and enough of their liquid to give a spreading or dipping consistency, with lemon juice to taste. Season with salt and pepper. Makes 1–1½ cups.

CHICK PEA AND PASTA SOUP

This soup from Italy is both filling and nutritious. The pancetta (or bacon) and parsley give a rich and fresh flavour. Pancetta is available at specialty Italian delicatessens.

1 × 375 g can garbanzos, drained
6 cups chicken or beef stock
2–3 slices pancetta or rashers streaky bacon, rind removed, finely chopped
4 tablespoons olive oil
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
4 tablespoons chopped parsley
salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 cups ditalini or small pasta shells
grated Parmesan or pecorino cheese

Place garbanzos and stock in a saucepan and simmer gently for 5 minutes. Spoon out about half the chick peas and reduce to a purée with a little of the stock – use a food processor, blender or food mill. Return purée to pan. Fry pancetta or bacon in oil with garlic and parsley until cooked. Add this mixture (known as the soffrito) to chick pea mixture and bring to the boil. Season with salt and pepper. Add pasta and cook until tender. The soup will thicken considerably during this last cooking. Serve with cheese sprinkled over. Serves 4–6.

REFRIED BEANS (FRIJOLES REFRITOS)

With minor variations these appear at every meal in Mexico.

2 cups dried red kidney beans, soaked in water overnight
salt
125 g (4 oz) bacon dripping or lard
1 large onion, finely chopped
1 clove garlic, crushed
1 small dried red chilli, seeded and finely chopped, or 1½ teaspoons Mexican chilli powder

Boil beans rapidly in soaking liquid for 10 minutes, then reduce heat and cook gently for about 2 hours or until tender. Add salt during last 30 minutes’ cooking time. Drain beans, reserving cooking liquid. Heat half the dripping or lard in a large frying pan. Add some of the beans and mash into hot fat. Add a little liquid and stir, then mash more beans into pan. Keep on adding beans and liquid until all are used, then stir over medium heat until mixture thickens. Turn into a bowl, and clean frying pan. Refrigerate bean mixture until required. Heat remaining fat in pan and gently fry onion, garlic and chilli or chilli powder for a few minutes, stirring. Add beans and continue cooking and stirring until beans are dry. Taste and add more salt if necessary. Serves 6–8 as a side dish or as a filling for tacos.

NOTE: This dish can be made using canned kidney beans. Omit the first frying. Mash the beans in their liquid, then fry with onion, garlic and chilli until dry.

BEAN SALAD

1 onion, chopped
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 cloves garlic, 1 whole and 1 crushed
1 bay leaf
1 teaspoon salt
5¾ cups water
1 cup dried kidney or lima beans, soaked in water overnight and drained
1 green pepper, cored, seeded and diced
½ cup Vinaigrette Dressing
3 tablespoons chopped parsley
1 teaspoon mustard

Gently fry half the chopped onion in oil in a heavy saucepan until beginning to colour. Add whole garlic clove, bay leaf, salt and water. Add beans, boil rapidly for 10 minutes then simmer for 2–2½ hours or until tender. Drain and cool. Add green pepper to beans. Combine dressing, crushed garlic, parsley, mustard and remaining onion. Pour over beans and toss well to mix. Chill, and toss again just before serving. Serves 6–8.

NOTE: This salad may be served as a first course on a bed of shredded lettuce on individual plates.

HOPPING JOHN (BLACK-EYED PEAS AND RICE)

1 cup black-eyed peas, soaked in water overnight and drained
1 smoked pork hock, or 1 small piece pickled (salt) pork, or 1 ham bone
1 large onion, chopped
1 cup long-grain rice
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Rinse peas in cold water and place in a large saucepan with pork, onion and enough water to measure twice the depth of peas. Bring to the boil, then cover and simmer for 1 hour or until peas are tender. Remove pork with slotted spoon; discard any bone and gristle and chop meat into small pieces. Drain peas into a sieve placed over a bowl. Add enough water to liquid, if necessary, to measure 2 cups. Return chopped meat, peas and liquid to saucepan, bring to the boil and add rice. Simmer, covered, until rice is tender and liquid is absorbed. Stir in salt and pepper and spoon into a heated serving bowl. Serves 6.

FALAFEL (BEAN CROQUETTES)

This is a deliciously spicy appetiser from the Middle East. The fava or broad beans used in falafel need long soaking to help the skins slip off more easily.

1 cup dried fava or broad beans
1 cup dried chick peas
1 medium onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, chopped
½ cup finely chopped parsley
pinch chilli powder
1 teaspoon ground coriander
½ teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon bicarbonate of soda
salt and freshly ground black pepper
oil for deep-frying

Soak fava or broad beans in water to cover for 48 hours, changing water twice each day. It is best to cover beans and refrigerate during soaking process to prevent fermentation. Soak chick peas in cold water for 12–15 hours. Drain beans and peas. Remove skins from beans by squeezing each firmly in the fingers until the seed pops out of the skin. You may have to slit the skin of some beans with the point of a sharp knife and then squeeze. Leave skin on chick peas. Combine beans and peas with onion and garlic and process in a food processor in 2 batches, or push through a food mill twice. Add parsley, chilli powder, coriander, cumin and soda and season with salt and pepper. Knead well and leave for 30 minutes. Shape a tablespoon of the mixture into a ball and flatten into a thick patty, 4 cm (1½ in) in diameter. Repeat until all mixture is used. Deep-fry in hot oil, 6–8 at a time, for 5–6 minutes, turning to brown evenly. Drain on paper towels. Serve hot as an appetiser or in split pita bread with Tahini Sauce. Makes about 30.

Dried peas

PEA AND HAM SOUP

500 g (1 lb) split green peas, soaked in water overnight and drained
8 cups water
1 ham bone
salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 bratwurst sausages, or 6 frankfurts (optional)

Place peas, water and ham bone in a large saucepan and bring to the boil. Season with salt and pepper, and simmer for 30 minutes. Remove ham bone and cut off meat. Chop meat and set aside. Strain soup through a sieve, return to pan and reheat. Heat sausages or frank-furts, if using, in hot water, then drain and slice. Add to soup with ham. Adjust seasoning. Serves 6.

KICHADI

This is very much like pilaf – a combination of rice and split peas.

2 cloves
very small piece cinnamon stick
cardamom seeds from 3 pods
1 teaspoon turmeric
2 teaspoons ground fenugreek seeds
4 tablespoons oil
2 onions, chopped
1 green pepper, cored, seeded and diced
2 cups brown rice
6 cups water
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup yellow split peas

Sauté all the spices in 2 tablespoons oil in a large, heavy saucepan. Add onions and green pepper and cook, stirring, until onions are soft. Stir in rice and continue to cook for about 5 minutes or until rice begins to turn white. Add water and salt and bring to the boil. Cover and cook on low heat for 20 minutes. Sauté yellow split peas in remaining oil. Add split peas to rice and continue cooking for 30 minutes. Makes 6 cups.

VARIATION

Add chopped cooked vegetables or a diced raw tomato at end of cooking time.

Lentils

SAUSAGES WITH LENTILS

3 rashers bacon, rind removed, halved
6 large pork sausages
250 g (8 oz) lentils
2 onions, each studded with 3 cloves
1 bouquet garni
salt and freshly ground black pepper
chopped parsley to garnish (optional)

Place bacon in a large saucepan over low heat and cook until fat melts. Add sausages to pan and fry, turning occasionally, until evenly browned. Add lentils, onions, bouquet garni, salt and pepper. Pour in sufficient water just to cover the ingredients. Bring to the boil, then cover and simmer gently for 30–40 minutes or until lentils are tender and liquid has been absorbed. Remove bouquet garni and onions and serve hot, garnished with parsley, if desired. Serves 6.

LENTILS WITH MINT

1 cup brown lentils
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 clove garlic, crushed
cup plain yogurt
½ bunch watercress, stalks removed, or ½ cup chopped parsley
1½ tablespoons chopped fresh mint
2 tomatoes, peeled, seeded and diced

Place lentils in a saucepan with enough fresh cold water to cover. Bring to the boil slowly and simmer for 15 minutes or until just tender but not mushy. Drain lentils, reserving liquid. Stir in salt, pepper and garlic. Measure ½ cup lentil stock and mix it with yogurt. Stir into lentil mixture. Just before serving, lightly mix watercress or parsley into lentils. Finally, add mint and tomatoes. Serve as salad, or use to fill small pita breads. May be served with cold meats or other vegetable dishes. Serves 4.

MEDITERRANEAN LENTIL STEW

Lentils do not need soaking before cooking. Mixed with vegetables they make a delicious stew in which most of the liquid is absorbed to give a moist sauce.

2 tablespoons oil
2 onions, chopped
1 clove garlic, crushed
2 sticks celery, sliced
4 small zucchini, sliced
4 tomatoes, peeled and quartered
3¾ cups water or vegetable stock
1 teaspoon ground coriander
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 cup brown lentils
2 tablespoons chopped coriander or parsley (optional)

Heat oil in a large saucepan. Add onions, garlic, celery and zucchini and fry gently for 5 minutes or until lightly browned, stirring frequently. Add tomatoes, water or stock, ground coriander, salt and pepper. Bring to the boil. Add lentils, then cover and simmer for 1 hour or until lentils are tender. Alternatively, transfer ingredients to a casserole, cover and bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for 1½ –2 hours. Sprinkle with chopped coriander or parsley, if using, before serving. Serve hot. Serves 4.

LENTIL SALAD

2 cups brown lentils
1 large onion, studded with 2 cloves
1 bay leaf
1 teaspoon salt
3 cloves garlic, bruised
1 strip orange rind
½ cup chopped parsley
1 cup finely chopped spring onions
½ cup olive oil
1 teaspoon red wine vinegar
1 tablespoon lemon juice

Garnish

2 rashers bacon, grilled until crisp and crumbled
2 hard-boiled eggs, chopped
¼ cup chopped parsley
12–15 black olives

Cover lentils with cold water in a saucepan and bring slowly to the boil, then remove from heat, cover and stand for 1 hour. Drain and return to pan. Cover again with cold water to come 5 cm (2 in) above lentils. Add onion, bay leaf, salt, garlic and orange rind. Bring to the boil, then cover and simmer for about 20–30 minutes or until just tender. Drain and discard flavouring ingredients. Cool. Put lentils into a bowl and toss gently with parsley, spring onions, oil, vinegar and lemon juice. Cover and stand for 1 hour. Fold bacon gently through lentils. Spoon salad into a serving dish and garnish with eggs, parsley and black olives. Serves 8.

CAULIFLOWER AND LENTIL CURRY

½ cup red or brown lentils
2 onions, finely chopped
60 g (2 oz) butter or ghee
½ teaspoon chilli powder, or to taste
¼ teaspoon turmeric
½ teaspoon curry powder
2 tablespoons desiccated coconut
1 medium cauliflower, cut into florets
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup water
juice 1 lemon

Place lentils in a saucepan, cover with fresh cold water and simmer gently for about 20 minutes or until almost tender. Drain. Fry onions in butter or ghee until soft. Add spices and coconut and cook gently, stirring, for 3 minutes. Add cauliflower, salt, lentils and water. Cover tightly and cook on low heat for 15–20 minutes or until cauliflower and lentils are soft. Stir in lemon juice. Taste and add more salt if needed. Serve as a main course with rice, pappadams and 1–2 side dishes, or as an accompaniment to a meat curry. Serves 4 as a main, 6 as an accompaniment.

DHAL (RED LENTILS)

250 g (8 oz) red lentils
½ teaspoon chilli powder
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon turmeric
4½ cups boiling water
3 tomatoes, quartered
2 onions, finely chopped
30 g (1 oz) butter
2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger

Put lentils, chilli, salt and turmeric into a saucepan with boiling water, and cook until tender. Purée lentils in a blender or push through a sieve. Fry tomatoes and onions in butter until golden. Add to lentils with ginger and cook for 5 minutes. Dhal should have the consistency of a thick sauce and is best eaten with boiled rice. Serves 4–6.

PUMPKIN

To trick-or-treat children at Halloween, this vegetable is perhaps more of a joy than something to be eaten. Historically, pumpkin is from the most ancient of vegetable families, the gourds, which were eaten in soups in Europe well before America and its pumpkins were discovered. There are many varieties of pumpkins, of all shapes and sizes. Some are available almost throughout the entire year; others wait for the first frosts before being harvested, when they are said to keep better and to have a sweeter flesh. Look for golden nuggets, japs and Queensland blues.

Pumpkin has a sweetish, nutty flavour which may be enhanced with herbs, cheese or spices, as in the traditional pumpkin pie. A dash of grated nutmeg is good with mashed pumpkin, too.

Whole pumpkins may be stuffed with bread, cheese, cream and seasonings and baked in the oven for a couple of hours; if the mixture is more liquid, the result is thick pumpkin soup in its own tureen. Small butternut pumpkins, halved and the centre flesh and seeds removed, may be parboiled and used as a ‘cup’ for another vegetable, such as spinach or broccoli.

Pumpkin soup – whether cooked in the pumpkin or not – is always a winter favourite; in some Asian countries it is made with coconut milk and flavoured with coriander and shallots.

To cook: Pumpkin may be boiled, steamed or baked. Steaming is usually preferable to boiling, unless the pumpkin is to be mashed afterwards, since it will keep its shape better and not become waterlogged. Pumpkin is generally peeled before it is cooked, although the skin of some varieties (such as butternut) is edible when young.

Baked pumpkin: Cook with roast meat, if the tin is large enough. Roll pumpkin pieces in meat drippings, arrange around meat and cook for 30–45 minutes. Otherwise, cook in a separate tin with 1–2 tablespoons oil or dripping.

Boiled pumpkin: Cook pieces of pumpkin, not too small, in boiling salted water until tender. Drain, dry briefly over heat then toss with butter and chopped fresh parsley. Alternatively, mash with butter and seasonings to taste.

Pumpkin is often mashed with potato, which can absorb some of the excess moisture from the pumpkin. The pumpkin needs less cooking time, and should be added to the pan about 5 minutes after potato.

Steamed pumpkin: Place even-size pieces of pumpkin in steaming basket and steam for about 10–15 minutes or until tender. Alternatively, cook in 5 mm (¼ in) water over high heat, but make sure the pan does not boil dry.

PUMPKIN SOUP

4½ cups peeled, seeded and chopped pumpkin
½ cup finely chopped onion
90 g (3 oz) butter
3 cups water
1 cup milk
2 tablespoons flour
salt and freshly ground white pepper
1 egg yolk (optional)

Cook pumpkin and onion in 60 g (2 oz) butter in a saucepan for 10 minutes, stirring constantly. Add water and cook gently until pumpkin is very tender. Push through sieve or purée in blender or food processor with a little of the milk. Melt remaining butter in clean pan and stir in flour, then pumpkin purée and remaining milk, stirring constantly until well blended. Season with salt and pepper. Simmer for 20 minutes. If desired, take out a little soup, blend with egg yolk and stir into remaining soup, just before serving. Serves 4–6.

VARIATION

Add a little grated fresh ginger with onion.

PUMPKIN GRATIN

500 g (1 lb) pumpkin, peeled, seeded and chopped
2 tablespoons rice
¾ cup water
salt and freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup cream
nutmeg
3 tablespoons grated cheese

Place pumpkin in a saucepan with rice and water. Season lightly with salt and pepper. Bring to the boil, then cover, reduce heat and cook for 12–15 minutes, by which time pumpkin and rice should be tender and water absorbed. Mash pumpkin and rice, or purée in blender. Add cream, nutmeg and extra seasoning if required. Turn into buttered, shallow ovenproof dish. Sprinkle with cheese and place in a preheated hot oven (200°C/400°F) to warm through and brown surface. Serves 6.

PUMPKIN PIE

Gramma, or bugle, pumpkin is the variety traditionally used for pumpkin pie, but if it is not available, use butternut instead.

1 kg (2 lb) pumpkin, peeled, seeded and chopped
½ teaspoon salt
¾ cup firmly packed brown sugar
½ cup sultanas
1 teaspoon cinnamon
½ teaspoon nutmeg
1 tablespoon flour
grated rind and juice 1 lemon
Rich Shortcrust Pastry (see Variation) for a 2-crust pie made using 2 cups flour
30 g (1 oz) butter
beaten egg white or milk
caster sugar

Place pumpkin in a saucepan, cover with boiling water, add salt and cook for 5 minutes. Drain. Combine pumpkin with brown sugar, sultanas, spices, flour, lemon juice and rind. Line greased 23 cm (9 in) pie plate with just over half pastry dough. Add pumpkin filling and dot with butter. With remaining dough, make lid for pie, or cut pastry into strips and arrange as lattice. Cut small steam vents in lid if not latticed. Brush dough with egg white or milk and sprinkle with caster sugar. Bake in a preheated hot oven (200°C/400°F) for 30 minutes, then reduce heat to moderate (180°C/350°F) and bake for further 40 minutes or until pastry is crisp and golden. Serves 6–8.

PUMPKIN PIE AMERICAN-STYLE

The traditional American recipe made without the top pastry crust.

2 cups cooked, mashed pumpkin
2 eggs, lightly beaten
1½ cups evaporated milk
½ cup sugar
1 teaspoon cinnamon
½ teaspoon ground ginger
¼ teaspoon ground cloves
½ teaspoon salt
1 quantity Rich Shortcrust Pastry

Combine pumpkin with eggs, milk, sugar, spices and salt, blending well. Roll out pastry dough and use it to line a 23 cm (9 in) pie plate. Fill with pumpkin mixture. Bake in a preheated hot oven (200°C/400°F) for 40 minutes. Serve warm or cool, with whipped cream, if liked. Serves 6–8.

PUNCH

Originally, punch was a drink based on rum and flavoured with lemon juice and cinnamon. Today, it is a beverage made in large quantities, usually containing fruit or fruit juice but not necessarily made with alcohol. A bowl of punch is useful at large parties when it is not possible to offer a range of different drinks. In the time of Brillat-Savarin, the famous eighteenth-century French gourmet and writer, a bowl of punch was served at the end of the evening, after coffee and liqueurs.

WASSAIL BOWL

The Wassail bowl, symbolising good cheer, is a traditional drink whose origins go back to Anglo-Saxon times. It should be quaffed with the toast ‘Wassail!’ (‘Good health!’).

12 small red apples
2 cups water
1 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
2 teaspoons ground ginger
1 cinnamon stick
6 whole cloves
6 whole allspice
4 coriander seeds
4 cups sugar
2½ litres (10 cups) ale
2 bottles sherry or Madeira
12 eggs, separated
1 cup brandy

Prick apples all over and bake them in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for 40–50 minutes or until soft. Mix water, spices and sugar in a large saucepan and bring to the boil, stirring until sugar is dissolved. Simmer for 10 minutes, then add ale and sherry or Madeira and heat; do not boil. Beat egg yolks until thick and pale. Whisk egg whites to a firm snow and fold into yolks. Slowly strain half the spiced mixture over the eggs, stirring constantly. Pour into a warmed punch bowl. Bring the remaining spiced mixture almost to boiling point and strain it into the bowl. Add brandy, stir to combine and add apples. Serve hot in punch cups. The apples may be served after the punch. Serves 25–30.

CHAMPAGNE CUP

Champagne or sparkling wine may by used for this cup.

¼ cup brandy
¼ cup Curaçao
1 × 750 ml bottle champagne
soda water
fresh grapes, strawberries or sliced fresh peaches to garnish

Pour brandy, Curaçao and champagne over ice in large punch bowl and mix well. Add soda water as desired just before serving, and garnish with fresh fruit. Quantities may be doubled if desired. Serves 6–8.

RUM PUNCH

For each drink

crushed ice
60 ml (2 oz) rum
juice ½ lime
1 teaspoon sugar
mint sprigs to garnish

Half fill a tall glass with ice and add rum, lime juice and sugar. Stir, and serve garnished with mint sprigs.

TEA PUNCH (ALCOHOLIC)

3 tablespoons tea leaves
5 cups boiling water
5 cups sweet white wine (Sauternes, Barsac)
½ cup lemon juice
ice cubes
fresh fruit to garnish (orange and lemon slices, strawberries or cherries, sliced peaches, pineapple chunks)

Steep tea leaves in boiling water for 5 minutes. Add wine and lemon juice and strain over ice in a punch bowl. Float fruit on top and stand for 10 minutes before serving. Serves 10.

TEA PUNCH (NON-ALCOHOLIC)

3 tablespoons lemon juice
¾ cup orange juice
1½ cups apricot nectar
1 × 750 ml bottle ginger ale
1½ cups strong black tea
3 tablespoons sugar
ice cubes
mint sprigs to garnish

Have fruit juices, apricot nectar and ginger ale well chilled. Strain tea into a large jug and stir in sugar, lemon and orange juices and apricot nectar. Add ginger ale, stirring gently. Serve over ice cubes in tall glasses, garnishing each drink with a sprig of fresh mint. Serves 8.

PURI

An Indian deep-fried unleavened bread made from atta or roti flour.

The dough is well kneaded to give the necessary light texture, rolled into thin rounds, then deep-fried. Puris are very light, puffed golden and hollow inside. They are served warm to accompany curries, dhal or vegetable purées. Atta or roti flours are available from health food shops and good delicatessens.

PURI

3 cups atta or roti flour
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon ghee or peanut oil
1 cup lukewarm water
oil for deep-frying

Place flour in a bowl, reserving ½ cup. Add salt to flour. Rub in ghee or add oil. Make a well in the centre and add water all at once, mixing with one hand to form a dough. Knead dough for at least 10 minutes. Wrap in plastic wrap and chill for 1 hour. Shape dough into 14–16 small balls about the size of a large walnut. Roll each one into thin rounds about 10 cm (4 in) diameter using reserved flour for dusting the work surface. In a deep frying pan heat about 2.5 cm (1 in) deep oil until a faint haze rises from the surface. Fry puris one at a time, pressing on the edges with an egg slice to encourage them to puff. When risen, turn to cook the other side. Drain on crumpled paper towels and serve hot. Makes about 14–16.