Margaret Fulton’s Encyclopedia of Food and Cookery

ABALONE

The beautiful single ear-shaped shell of the abalone is lined with mother of pearl, which is used to make buttons. The tough, fleshy mollusc in the shell is the edible part, and has a delicious clam-like flavour. Abalone is considered a great delicacy and is available fresh or canned.

If fresh, abalone should be cut into thin slices and pounded to tenderise it before sautéeing briefly (45–55 seconds). It will toughen if overcooked. Dried abalone has to be soaked for 4 days before using and is not recommended.

Sautéed Abalone: Slice abalone into strips against the grain. If fresh, pound with a meat mallet until soft and limp. Coat with egg and breadcrumbs or flour, and cook very quickly in hot oil or butter until golden. Season with salt and pepper and serve with lemon wedges or Sauce Tartare.

ABERDEEN SAUSAGE

A Scottish favourite. Serve cold, with salads.

ABERDEEN SAUSAGE

250 g (8 oz) bacon, rind removed
500 g (1 lb) topside mince
1 cup fresh breadcrumbs
2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley
1 teaspoon salt
freshly ground black pepper
½ teaspoon nutmeg
grated rind
½ lemon
1 egg
flour for dusting
fine, dry breadcrumbs

Mince bacon and combine with remaining ingredients except flour and dry breadcrumbs. Form into a roll about 8 cm (3 in) wide and dust with flour. Tie securely in a scalded, floured cloth and plunge into a saucepan of boiling water. Boil steadily for 2 hours, replacing water if necessary. Unwrap while hot and roll in dry breadcrumbs. Place on a baking tray and dry in a preheated slow oven (150°C/300°F) for 15 minutes. Serves 6.

AÏOLI

A garlic-flavoured sauce from Provence in France. Serve it with hot or cold fish, cold meats, cooked or raw vegetables and hard-boiled eggs.

AÏOLI

4 fat cloves garlic
salt
2 egg yolks
1 cup olive oil
1 tablespoon lemon juice

Crush garlic to a pulp with ¼ teaspoon salt. Beat in egg yolks, then 3 tablespoons olive oil drop by drop, then lemon juice. Beat in remaining oil a little at a time. Mixture should be smooth and thick, like mayonnaise. Taste and adjust seasoning. Makes 1¼ cups.

ALLSPICE

A spice which seems to combine the flavours of cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg. The source is the berry of the pimento tree and allspice is sometimes bought as ‘pimento’.Whole berries are used in pickles and preserves. Crushed, they flavour cakes, puddings, biscuits and some meat and fish dishes.

ALMOND

Whole, slivered, chopped, crushed or ground, plain or toasted, almonds are one of the pleasures of the kitchen.

To blanch almonds (remove brown skin): Cover whole almonds with boiling water and leave until skins are wrinkled (about 5 minutes). Drain, pinch off skins and dry, without colouring, in a preheated very cool oven (120°C/250°F).

To sliver or flake almonds: Cover freshly blanched nuts with boiling water and simmer for 2–3 minutes; drain. Using a very sharp paring knife, cut almonds horizontally into flakes, or split in 2 and cut each half lengthways into fine slivers. Dry, without colouring, in a preheated very cool oven (120°C/250°F).

To toast almonds: Spread in a single layer on a baking tray and bake in a preheated slow oven (150°C/300°F), turning them frequently until golden.

To grind almonds: Use a special rotary nut mill or process in small batches in a blender or food processor. Use pulse action on high speed but be careful to stop as soon as the almonds become a dry meal. Over-processing makes them pasty and oily.

ALMOND SOUP

1 cup ground almonds
3 cups chicken stock
1 small onion stuck with 2 cloves
1 bay leaf
½ cup milk
pinch nutmeg
salt and freshly ground black pepper
30 g (1 oz) butter
2 tablespoons flour
1 cup cream
slivered toasted almonds to garnish

Combine ground almonds, stock, onion and bay leaf in a saucepan. Simmer, covered, for 30 minutes. Remove onion and bay leaf, pour mixture into a jug and add milk, nutmeg, salt and pepper. Melt butter, add flour and stir on low heat for 1 minute. Remove from heat, and blend in stock mixture. Stir over heat until boiling. Simmer for 5 minutes. Add cream and reheat but do not boil. Serve hot or cold, with a sprinkle of slivered almonds. Serves 4.

ALMOND MACAROONS (AMARETTI)

2 egg whites
1 cups freshly ground almonds
1 cup caster sugar
2 tablespoons icing sugar, sifted
extra sifted icing sugar for dusting

Beat egg whites to a firm snow and fold in almonds and sugars. Pipe mixture onto squares of greaseproof paper in small round or oval shapes. Dust with icing sugar and leave for about 4 hours. Bake macaroons in a preheated moderately slow oven (160°C/325°F) for 15 minutes or until delicately browned. Cool before removing from paper squares. Store in an airtight container. Makes 14–16.

ALMOND TART

Pastry

1 cup flour
2 tablespoons sugar
¼ teaspoon baking powder
90 g (3 oz) butter
1 egg, lightly beaten
1 tablespoon iced water

Filling

125 g (4 oz) butter
1 cup caster sugar
¼ cup flour, sifted
¼ cup cream
1½ cups flaked almonds, lightly toasted

To make pastry, sift together flour, sugar and baking powder; rub in butter until mixture resembles fine breadcrumbs. Quickly stir in egg and add enough iced water to form a ball. Knead very lightly, wrap in plastic wrap and chill for 1 hour. Place dough on a lightly floured surface and roll out to line a 20 cm (8 in) flan ring. Chill for 30 minutes.

To make filling, cream butter, add sugar and beat until light and fluffy. Stir in flour and cream, mixing well. Add almonds and spoon mixture evenly into tart shell. Bake in a preheated hot oven (200°C/400°F) for 30–40 minutes (the filling will not be quite firm). Remove from oven and cool on a wire rack until filling is firm. Serve cold with whipped cream. Serves 8.

ALMOND-CHICKEN SALAD

3 cups cooked, diced chicken
½ cup sultanas
½ cup slivered almonds, toasted
3 sticks celery, finely sliced
6 spring onions, chopped
¾ cup Mayonnaise
¼ cup orange juice
salt and freshly ground black pepper
lettuce leaves, orange slices and extra toasted almonds to garnish

Combine all ingredients for salad. Spoon into a platter lined with lettuce leaves and garnish with orange slices and almonds. Serves 6.

ALMOND PASTE

This sweet, pale paste, made from ground almonds, is used to cover fruit cakes before they are iced, as a filling in pastries, as an ingredient in biscuits, etc.

To apply almond paste to the top of a cake: trim top of cake, if necessary, to give a flat surface, or turn cake upside-down and use the bottom. Brush lightly with lightly beaten egg white or warm, sieved apricot jam. On a board dusted with sifted icing sugar, roll out paste to fit cake, place on top and press gently with a rolling pin. Leave for several hours or overnight before icing cake.

ALMOND PASTE

3 cups pure icing sugar, sifted
250 g (8 oz) ground almonds
2 tablespoons lemon juice
2 tablespoons sweet sherry
1 egg yolk
2–3 drops almond essence
1 egg white
½ cup apricot jam

Combine icing sugar and ground almonds. Combine lemon juice, sherry, egg yolk and essence. Mix with sugar-almond mixture to form a firm paste which can be rolled out. If necessary, add a little more sherry. Will cover the tops of 2 × 20 cm (8 in) cakes.

AMARETTI (ITALIAN MACAROONS)

see Almond: Almond Macaroons.

ANCHOVY

A member of the herring family. Anchovies are often eaten fresh where caught, but are more familiar to most people as salted fillets packed in oil. They are also made into a paste, which is used as a spread for toast, or an essence to flavour sauces, etc.

ANCHOVY BUTTER

Spread on bread, toast, crisp crackers or Croûtons, or slice and place on hot cooked steaks. For a milder flavour, soak anchovies in a little milk for 20 minutes before using.

125 g (4 oz) butter
1 tablespoon mashed, drained anchovy fillets
squeeze lemon juice

Cream butter, then beat in anchovies and lemon juice. Store, covered, in refrigerator. Keeps for 1–2 weeks.

FETTUCINE WITH BUTTER AND ANCHOVIES

500 g (1 lb) fettucine (ribbon noodles), freshly cooked and drained
125 g (4 oz) butter
¼ cup drained, chopped anchovy fillets
freshly ground white pepper
1 cup grated Parmesan cheese

Place fettucine on a heated serving dish. Heat butter with anchovies, stirring well. Grind white pepper over noodles, sprinkle with half the cheese and pour anchovy butter over. Serve remaining cheese separately. Serves 6.

ANCHOIADE

This spicy, anchovy and garlic spread is delicious served on hot dry toast or crunchy French bread. Small black olives and crisp radish make an interesting addition to the plate. Use the anchovies packed in rough salt for preference; otherwise, use those canned in oil.

20 anchovy fillets, rinsed
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar or lemon juice
freshly ground black pepper
4 tablespoons olive oil
6 slices white bread, or 12 slices French bread
lemon wedges, red radish and black olives to garnish

Mash anchovies in a mortar (or use a blender or food processor for this). Add garlic, vinegar and pepper, and drizzle oil in very slowly so sauce does not separate. Sprinkle slices of bread with olive oil, place on a baking tray and toast under a preheated grill for 2–3 minutes or until slightly crisp. Turn over, spread with anchovy paste and return to heat for 3–5 minutes. Cut each slice into 4 triangles and serve immediately while piping hot. Arrange on a platter with lemon, radish and black olives. Serves 6.

ANGEL CAKE

A delicate American speciality. Because of its light texture it is not cut, but separated into pieces with 2 forks. You should be able to find an angel cake pan – a high tube pan, often with a removable base – in a good kitchen shop.

ANGEL CAKE

1 cup flour, sifted
1½ cups caster sugar
1¼ cups egg whites (10–12 medium eggs)
¼ teaspoon salt
1½ teaspoons cream of tartar
1½ teaspoons vanilla essence
few drops almond essence

Sift flour and ¾ cup sugar together 3 times. Beat egg whites with salt and cream of tartar until soft peaks form. Sprinkle rest of sugar over egg whites 2 tablespoons at a time, beating well after each addition. Continue beating until whites stand in stiff peaks, then fold in vanilla and almond essence. Sift about a quarter of the dry ingredients over egg whites and fold in gently. Repeat until all the mixture is used. Pour batter into an ungreased 23 cm (9 in) angel cake pan – if there is a speck of grease on the pan, the cake will not rise. Cut gently through batter with a spatula to remove any large air bubbles. Bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for 45–50 minutes or until crust is golden-brown. Take cake from oven and place tube on a funnel or bottle, so cake hangs upside-down. When cool, use a thin knife to help remove cake from pan. Serve plain, iced or topped with whipped cream and strawberries. Serves 10–12.

ANGELICA

An aromatic herb, which most home cooks know as bright green, candied stalks used to decorate desserts, cakes and biscuits. Keep candied angelica airtight to avoid drying out, and if necessary wash in warm water to remove excess sugar, and dry before using.

ANGELS ON HORSEBACK

The intriguing name for oysters wrapped in thin rashers of bacon and grilled until bacon is crisp. Serve on small rounds of buttered toast or fried bread. Can be served as an hors d’oeuvre or as a savoury at the end of a meal.

ANISE/ANISEED

A tall plant which has a pronounced licorice flavour. It is also known as sweet cumin. The tiny, greyish-brown seeds are dried for use in cooking and are called aniseed. To release the full flavour of the seeds, they may be crushed – but use them with a light hand, especially in savoury dishes, as the flavour can dominate. Aniseed is used in fish dishes, in particular some fish and vegetable curries and mussels. It is also added to cheeses, cakes, breads and confectionery, as well as some alcoholic drinks.

ANISE DROP BISCUITS

These tiny biscuits bake to a puffed top on a soft biscuit base.

3 eggs
1 cup caster sugar
½ teaspoon vanilla essence
2 cups flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1½ tablespoons crushed aniseeds

Beat eggs until light, then beat in sugar, a little at a time. Mixture should be thick and pale yellow. Add vanilla, then flour and baking powder, sifted together. Add aniseed and beat for 5 minutes. Drop mixture in half-teaspoonfuls, well apart, on a baking tray lined with lightly greased foil. Bake in a preheated moderately slow oven (160°C/325°F) for about 12 minutes or until lightly coloured.

Remove from oven, loosen biscuits on foil and leave them on it, uncovered and at room temperature, for 18 hours to dry. Store in airtight containers. Makes about 90.

ANTIPASTI

The Italian version of appetisers or hors d’oeuvre.

They may be hot or cold and, in Italy, are most often served at the table as a first course. Antipasti may be arranged on one large platter for guests to serve themselves, or on individual plates. They may also be served as an accompaniment to aperitifs or cocktails.

Popular ingredients for cold antipasti (antipasti freddi) include crisp raw vegetables, lightly cooked vegetables marinated in dressing, slices of ham, prosciutto and salami, marinated mushrooms, stuffed eggs, caviar, smoked salmon and eel, tuna, herring fillets and sardines. Hot antipasti (antipasti caldi) might include chicken livers on crisp fried bread, grilled cheese fingers, dumplings stuffed with spinach or cheese, grilled sardines and batter-fried seafood.

Antipasto Variato: Use a large, round platter. In the centre, put a mound of drained tuna. Coat with Mayonnaise and sprinkle with capers. Arrange around tuna overlapping slices of prosciutto, then sliced salami. Add thinly sliced fennel bulb, then a circle of hard-boiled eggs, cut into quarters, and topped with strips of anchovy. Arrange celery sticks, radishes and olives around the edge. Serve with salt and freshly ground black pepper, separate jugs of oil and vinegar, crusty bread and butter.

Antipasto Misto: On a long dish arrange an assortment of salads – raw peppers, seeded and cut into rings; raw mushrooms, sliced; potato salad; whole small red tomatoes (the plum-shaped, egg tomatoes are ideal); fennel or celery, finely sliced. Sprinkle with a little Vinaigrette Dressing, top with hard-boiled eggs, cut into quarters, and sprinkle with chopped parsley.

See also Appetisers; Hors d’Oeuvre.

NEAPOLITAN TOMATO SALAD

6 tomatoes, peeled and sliced
¼ cup Vinaigrette Dressing
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
6–8 leaves fresh basil

Arrange tomato slices overlapping on a large platter and pour over dressing mixed with the garlic. Scatter with freshly cut ribbons of basil. Serves 6–8.

GREEN BEANS AND TUNA

500 g (1 lb) green beans, topped and tailed and stringed if necessary
salt
¼ cup olive oil
1 teaspoon lemon juice
freshly ground black pepper
1 × 200 g can tuna in oil

Drop beans into boiling salted water and cook until just tender-crisp; drain. While still hot, sprinkle with salt and pepper. Drain tuna, break into large chunks and toss with beans. Cover and chill before serving. Serves 4–6.

STUFFED EGGS WITH ANCHOVIES

Use as part of an antipasto tray, or serve on a bed of finely shredded lettuce as a first course (allow 2 per serving).

6 hard-boiled eggs
5 anchovy fillets, mashed
30 g (1 oz) butter
1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley
2 tablespoons Mayonnaise
freshly ground black pepper

Shell eggs, cut in half lengthways and remove yolks. Mash yolks with anchovies, butter, parsley, mayonnaise and pepper. Refill whites with mixture. Serve slightly chilled. Makes 12.

CROSTINI CON GORGONZOLA (GORGONZOLA ON FRIED BREAD FINGERS)

Base

6 slices white bread, crusts removed and cut into 4 strips each
30 g (1 oz) unsalted butter
3 tablespoons olive oil

Topping

½ cup crumbled Gorgonzola cheese at room temperature
60 g (2 oz) unsalted butter, softened
1 tablespoon brandy
1 teaspoon paprika
freshly ground black pepper

Fry bread strips in hot butter and oil until golden-brown on both sides. Drain on paper towels.

To make topping, cream Gorgonzola and butter, and mix in brandy, paprika and pepper. Spread on fried bread and serve at once. This mixture may also be spread on biscuits or toast. Serves 4–6.

MARINATED MUSHROOMS

500 g (1 lb) button mushrooms
2 tablespoons olive oil
½ cup Vinaigrette Dressing
2 cloves garlic, split in half
finely chopped parsley to garnish

Lightly brown mushrooms in hot olive oil. Do not overcook – they should stay firm. Turn into a bowl, add dressing and garlic and marinate, covered, in refrigerator for several hours. Bring mushrooms to room temperature to serve, sprinkled with chopped parsley. Serves 4–6.

ANZAC BISCUITS

Crunchy and economical – an Australian favourite, made popular during World War I when there were egg shortages. Sent in food parcels to the troops who became famous as Anzacs (Australian and New Zealand Army Corps).

ANZAC BISCUITS

125 g (4 oz) butter
1 tablespoon golden syrup
2 tablespoons boiling water
1½ teaspoon bicarbonate of soda
1 cup rolled oats
¾ cup desiccated coconut
1 cup flour
1 cup sugar

Melt butter and syrup over low heat. Add boiling water mixed with soda. Pour into mixed dry ingredients and mix well. Drop teaspoonfuls of mixture on to greased baking trays, leaving room for spreading. Bake in a preheated slow oven (150°C/300°F) for 20 minutes. Cool on trays for a few minutes, then remove to wire racks. Store in airtight containers. Makes about 48.

APPETISERS

The name covers a wide variety of food served in small portions with drinks before a meal, or as the first course. They may include vegetables with a light dressing, dips, small fancy sandwiches, pâtés, cold meats and fish, skewered foods and tiny, hot pastries.

See also Antipasti; Canapés; Hors d’Oeuvre; Sandwiches.

ANCHOVY APPETISER TURNOVERS

½ × 375 g (12 oz) packet frozen puff pastry, thawed
2 × 56 g cans rolled, stuffed anchovy fillets, drained
1 egg yolk, lightly beaten

Roll out thawed packet pastry thinly. Cut out 5 cm (2 in) rounds,wet edges and place an anchovy on one side of each. Fold other sides over, press with a fork to seal and chill for 30 minutes. Brush tops with egg yolk and bake in a preheated very hot oven (230°C/450°F) for 15 minutes or until turnovers are puffed and golden. Makes about 24.

CHICKEN SATÉS

3 chicken fillets (skinless, boneless half-breasts)
1 chilli, halved and seeded
½ medium onion, chopped
2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger
juice ½ lemon
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon water
2 tablespoons light soy sauce
1 tablespoon peanut oil
extra oil for brushing

Cut chicken into 2 cm (¾ in) cubes. Put chilli, onion, ginger, lemon juice, salt, water, soy sauce and oil in a blender and blend until smooth. Pour over chicken, cover and marinate for 2 hours in refrigerator. Thread on skewers, brush with extra oil and grill under a preheated grill for 5–8 minutes, turning often, until chicken is crisp and brown. Serves 6.

HAM AND CHICKEN ROLLS

A popular Chinese appetiser, may also be served as a first course with a sweet and sour sauce.

4 chicken fillets (skinless, boneless half-breasts)
1 teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon white pepper
¼ teaspoon five-spice powder
1 clove garlic, crushed
4 slices cooked ham
½ cup flour
1 egg, lightly beaten
2 tablespoons milk
4 spring roll wrappers
oil for deep-frying

Separate strip of fillet which runs lengthways along each half-breast. Pound breast and fillet pieces separately until very thin, being careful not to tear meat. Lay a fillet piece on top of each breast and pound lightly. Spread chicken pieces with combined mixture of salt, pepper, five-spice powder and garlic. Separately roll each slice of ham and place on top of each chicken piece. Roll up firmly, folding ends in securely. Dip chicken rolls in flour, then in egg beaten with milk. Place chicken roll diagonally across spring roll wrapper, fold in ends and roll up securely. Seal with a little of the egg mixture. Deep-fry rolls in hot oil for 3–5 minutes until golden-brown and cooked through. Do not have the oil too hot or the rolls will brown too much before they are cooked through. Drain on crumpled paper towels. Serve cut into diagonal slices. If serving as a first course, serve accompanied by Sweet and Sour Sauce. Serves 4–6.

APPLE

Since the days of the Garden of Eden, apples have been munched with enjoyment at any time of the day in most parts of the world. Although there are many varieties, in general they can be divided into apples for cooking and those for eating, though in many cases they overlap. The Australian Granny Smith, a self-planted tree, discovered by ‘Granny’ Smith in her garden and nurtured to produce the beautiful green apples that carry her name, is a superb example of the ‘all-purpose’ apple, with tart-sweet flesh just right for cooking and also for eating.

Apples are used in a great number of ways. They can be baked, stewed, puréed, and used to make tarts and puddings; they can be preserved as jam or jelly, in pickles and chutney, or dried. Raw, they feature in salads, can be eaten with cheese, and are used with savoury meats. Roast pork with apple sauce is enjoyed in many countries.

Store small quantities of apples in the refrigerator crisper, and large quantities in a cool, dark place where plenty of air can circulate. If raw apples are cut for salads etc., sprinkle with a little lemon juice to prevent discolouring.

To cook: If you want apple pieces to hold their shape, cook them in syrup (½ cup sugar to 1 cup water for tart apples, less sugar for sweeter apples). If you want the apples to break up (for example for apple sauce), add sugar to taste after cooking in water. For best flavour and colour in apple sauce, slice apples but do not peel or core, and rub through a sieve or put through a food mill after cooking. Flavour with lemon juice or grated rind and a little butter.

APPLE SAUCE (CHUNKY)

Serve with roast or grilled pork or ham.

4 large cooking apples, peeled, cored and quartered
½ cup water
¼ –½ cup sugar
2 teaspoons lemon juice
¼ teaspoon cinnamon

Cook apples until soft in covered saucepan, using just enough water to keep them from scorching. Stir occasionally during cooking. Break up apple a little and add sugar to taste. Stir in lemon juice and cinnamon. Makes about 1½ cups.

VARIATIONS

Add nutmeg, ground cloves, a few raisins or chopped nuts.

APPLE SAUCE (SMOOTH)

Serve hot or cold with roast duck or pork.

4 cooking apples, quartered
about ½ cup water
¼ – ½ cup sugar
2 teaspoons lemon juice

Do not peel or core apples. Cook until soft in covered saucepan, using just enough water to keep them from scorching. Stir occasionally during cooking. Force through a sieve or food mill and stir in sugar to taste and lemon juice. Vary as in Apple Sauce (Chunky). Makes about 1½ cups.

APPLE BAVARIAN SLAW

1 Spanish onion, sliced
2 red apples, cored and thinly sliced
4 cups shredded red cabbage
½ cup sliced dill pickles
½ cup Vinaigrette Dressing

Separate onion into rings. Combine onion, apples, cabbage and pickles. Chill. Just before serving, toss with dressing. Serves 6.

APPLE BUTTER

2 kg (4 lb) well-flavoured apples, quartered
2 cups cider or water
sugar
3 teaspoons cinnamon
1½ teaspoons ground cloves
½ teaspoon ground allspice

Cook apples in cider or water until soft. Strain pulp. To each cup of pulp, add ½ cup sugar. Stir in remaining ingredients. Cook over low heat, stirring constantly, until mixture is thick. Pour into hot sterilised jars, cool and seal. Store in a cool, dry place. Makes about 5 × 1 cup jars.

DEEP DISH APPLE PIE

Use frozen shortcrust, puff or flaky pastry for this pie.

3 tablespoons quick-cooking tapioca
¾ cup white sugar
cup firmly packed dark brown sugar
¼ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon cinnamon
½ teaspoon nutmeg
6 tart apples, peeled, cored and sliced
½ × 375 g (12 oz) packet frozen shortcrust, puff or flaky pastry, thawed
whipped cream flavoured with a little sugar and nutmeg to serve (optional)

Mix all ingredients except pastry and whipped cream. Pour into buttered deep 20 cm (8 in) round or square dish. Roll out pastry to fit top of dish. Cut several slits near the centre and lay pastry over apple mixture. Bake in a preheated hot oven (220°C/425°F) for about 35 minutes; reduce heat to moderate (180°C/350°F) and bake for a further 30 minutes. Serve with whipped cream if desired. Serves 6.

APPLE CRISP

5 large cooking apples, peeled, cored and sliced
¼ cup water
½ cup white sugar
½ cup firmly packed light brown sugar
½ teaspoon nutmeg
½ teaspoon cinnamon
¼ teaspoon salt
¾ cup flour
125 g (4 oz) butter or margarine

Put apples in shallow 4-cup ovenproof dish and add water. Combine sugars, nutmeg, cinnamon, salt and flour. Cut in butter with pastry blender, knife or fingertips. Spoon evenly over apples. Cover and bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for 30 minutes. Uncover and bake for 30 minutes longer. Serves 6.

APPLE SLICES IN BRANDY AND CREAM

6 medium cooking apples, peeled, cored and thinly sliced
60 g (2 oz) unsalted butter
3 tablespoons brandy
3 tablespoons water
¾ cup firmly packed brown sugar
1 teaspoon nutmeg
1 cup currants or dried, mixed fruit
1 cup cream

Place apples in a buttered shallow baking dish and dot with remaining butter. Stir rest of ingredients together and spoon over apples. Bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for 30 minutes or until apples are tender. Serve warm with crisp biscuits or plain cake. Serves 6–8.

QUICK APPLE STRUDEL

An Austrian specialty – paper-thin pastry enveloping buttery, spiced apple slices. This version is simplified by using commercial puff pastry, rolled as thin as possible. The same method is used when making with classic Strudel Pastry (see Strudel ).

4 large cooking apples, peeled, cored and thinly sliced
2 tablespoons brown sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla essence
250 g (8 oz) puff pastry
125 g (4 oz) unsalted butter
½ cup fresh breadcrumbs
2 tablespoons redcurrant jelly
½ cup chopped almonds
sifted icing sugar
whipped cream to serve

Sprinkle apples with brown sugar and vanilla, toss well to coat apples and stand for 1 hour. Roll out pastry on a floured tea-towel to an oblong shape about 35 × 50 cm (14 × 20 in). Melt half the butter and sauté breadcrumbs until golden. Melt remaining butter and brush half over pastry, leaving a 5 cm (2 in) margin along each side. Spread half the apples over crumbs, dot with 1 tablespoon redcurrant jelly and sprinkle with half the almonds. Top with remaining apples, jelly, almonds and breadcrumbs. Fold in edges of pastry and brush with remaining melted butter. Roll up like a Swiss roll and place strudel, seam side down, on a greased baking tray, curving it if necessary to fit. Brush top with butter and bake in a preheated moderately hot oven (190°C/375°F) for 45 minutes, brushing again with butter every 10 minutes. Remove from oven and dust generously with icing sugar. Serve warm, with whipped cream. Serves 6–8.

BAKED APPLES

6 large Granny Smith or other cooking apples, cored
½ cup sugar
1 cup water
1 teaspoon cinnamon or nutmeg

Make a slit around the centre of each apple to prevent splitting. Arrange close together in a shallow baking dish. Boil sugar and water together for 2–3 minutes and stir in spice. Pour over apples and bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for 50–60 minutes, basting often with syrup. Serve warm with custard, cream or ice cream. Serves 6.

NOTE: Cavities of apples may be filled with chopped dates or raisins if wished. Brown sugar may be used instead of white for a caramel flavour, and grated lemon rind added to the syrup instead of spice.

FRESH APPLE CHUTNEY

2 medium cooking apples, peeled, cored and grated
3 tablespoons apricot jam
1 tablespoon vinegar
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh mint
salt
pinch cayenne

Mix apples with remaining ingredients, seasoning to taste with salt and cayenne. Serve at once with curries or cold meats. Makes about 2 cups.

BUTTERED APPLES

3–4 cooking apples, peeled, cored and sliced
1 tablespoon brown sugar
30 g (1 oz) butter, cut into small pieces
piece lemon peel

Put apples into a small, heavy saucepan. Sprinkle with sugar, dot with butter and lay peel on top. Cover and cook on low heat for 15–20 minutes or until tender, turning slices over gently from time to time. Serve hot or cold with cream. Serves 4.

NORMANDY PORK CHOPS

6 large pork chops
60 g (2 oz) butter
2 large onions, sliced
1 clove garlic, crushed
3 large cooking apples, peeled, cored and sliced
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon sugar
2 cups cider

Trim excess fat from chops and fry them in butter until golden-brown on both sides. Remove to a shallow casserole, arranging them in a single layer. In the same pan fry onions, garlic and apple slices until beginning to soften. Arrange over chops. Add salt, pepper, sugar and cider to pan and bring to the boil, stirring to get up brown bits from bottom. Pour over chops, cover tightly and bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for 45 minutes or until chops are tender. Serve with noodles and braised red or green cabbage. Serves 6.

APPLE FRITTERS

Serve with grilled bacon for breakfast, or as a dessert with ice cream.

3 large cooking apples, peeled and cored
½ cup sugar
2 tablespoons brandy
2 teaspoons grated lemon rind
1½ cups flour, sifted
½ teaspoon baking powder
¼ teaspoon salt
2 eggs, lightly beaten
1 teaspoon oil
cup beer
oil for deep-frying
sifted icing sugar (for dessert fritters)

Cut each apple crossways into 4 rings. Mix ¼ cup sugar with the brandy and lemon rind, pour over apples and stand for 2–3 hours. Mix remaining ¼ cup sugar with flour, baking powder, salt, eggs, oil and beer to make a batter. Let batter stand for 1 hour. Drain and dry apple rings. Dip in batter one at a time and deep-fry in hot oil until golden-brown and crisp. Drain on crumpled paper towels. Sprinkle dessert fritters with icing sugar. Serve hot. Serves 4.

APPLE PIE

1 quantity Sweet Rich Shortcrust Pastry
6 large cooking apples, peeled, cored and thinly sliced
¾ cup sugar
1 tablespoon flour
1 teaspoon cinnamon
¼ teaspoon nutmeg
pinch salt
30 g (1 oz) butter
1 egg white, lightly beaten
extra sugar

Reserve one-third of pastry for lid of pie. Roll out remainder to line a greased 23 cm (9 in) pie plate. Toss apples with sugar, flour, spices and salt. Spread evenly in pastry case and dot with butter. Roll out remaining pastry to cover top of pie, moisten edges and press firmly together. Press edges with tines of a fork to decorate. Make a few slits in top crust for steam to escape, brush with egg white and sprinkle with extra sugar. Bake in a preheated hot oven (200°C/400°F) for 10 minutes. Lower heat to moderately slow (160°C/325°F) and bake for a further 45minutes or until pastry is golden and apples are tender. Serve warm. Serves 6–8.

APPLE KUCHEN

A soft yeast bread of German origin.

2 cups flour
½ teaspoon salt
15 g (½ oz) compressed yeast
2 tablespoons sugar
1 egg, beaten
½ cup warm milk
30–60 g (1–2 oz) butter, melted
¼ cup raisins
1 apple, peeled, cored and sliced
syrup or water
caster sugar
1 teaspoon cinnamon

Sift flour and salt. Cream yeast with sugar. Mix into flour with egg, milk and butter. Beat thoroughly, then leave to rise in a warm place until double its bulk. Turn out onto a floured board and knead lightly. Work raisins into dough. Shape into a large bun with the hand and put into a lightly greased cake or deep sandwich tin. Flatten top with your fist and cover with sliced apple, pressing the sharp edge of the slices into the dough. Brush lightly with a thin syrup (3 tablespoons water and 1 tablespoon sugar boiled for 1 minute) or water, sprinkle thickly with caster sugar mixed with a little cinnamon, and leave to prove for 20 minutes. Bake in a preheated moderately hot oven (190°C/375°F) for 40–45 minutes. Serves 6–8.

NOTE: Dry yeast can be used; see Yeast Cookery.

GERMAN APPLE CAKE

60 g (2 oz) butter
cup sugar
1 egg
1 cup self-raising flour, sifted
¼ cup milk
4 medium apples, peeled, quartered and cored
juice 1 lemon
sugar
cinnamon

Cream butter with sugar. Add egg and beat well. Add half of flour and beat to combine. Add milk and remaining flour alternately (this will make a thick mixture). Spread mixture over bottom of greased 23 cm (9 in) springform tin. Cut quartered apples into thin slices but not all the way through. Put apples as you are preparing them in a bowl and squeeze over lemon juice. Place drained apples, cored side down, on cake. Bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for 1 hour. While still warm sprinkle with sugar and cinnamon. Serves 6–8.

APRICOT

This small, round, golden fruit grows on a tree that is a member of the peach family. Canned and dried apricots make it possible to enjoy the flavour of this lovely fruit all year round. Keep fresh apricots in the refrigerator in a covered container, or in a plastic bag perforated with a few holes. If apricots are not quite ripe, ripen them at room temperature before storing.

To cook fresh apricots: Poach gently in a syrup so that they keep their shape. Bring to the boil 1 cup water, ¾ cup sugar and 4 cloves or a piece of cinnamon stick. Simmer for 5 minutes. Add 12–15 washed apricots, whole, or halved and stoned. Simmer for 10 minutes or until just tender. Serve warm or chilled. If desired, liquid may be flavoured with lemon rind instead of spice, or you may use half white wine and half water.

To cook dried apricots: Simmer in water to cover for 20 minutes or until tender. Sweeten after cooking with sugar or honey. Dried apricots will also become plump and tender without cooking, if soaked overnight in water, fruit juice or cold tea. Keep covered in the refrigerator.

Apricot Glaze: This simple glaze is much used in French home and professional cooking to give brilliance and glitter to any fruit tart, since the taste of apricot blends very well with that of other fruits. It can be used as a simple icing for cakes and pies, or used inside a pastry case to moisture-proof it before the filling goes in. Simply boil 1 cup apricot jam with ¼ cup water, stirring frequently until mixture is clear and will just drop from the spoon. Use a pastry brush to apply it. (Redcurrant jelly may be treated and used in the same way.)

FRESH APRICOT CRUMBLE PIE

1 kg (2 lb) fresh apricots, halved and stoned
¾ cup sugar
pinch salt
1 tablespoon grated lemon rind
2 tablespoons lemon juice
1 tablespoon cornflour
1 × 23 cm (9 in) unbaked Rich Shortcrust Pastry pie shell

Topping

cup firmly packed brown sugar
½ cup flour
1 teaspoon cinnamon
90 g (3 oz) butter

Mix together apricots, sugar, salt, lemon rind and juice and cornflour. Pack into pie shell. For topping, combine sugar, flour and cinnamon and rub in butter to form crumbs. Sprinkle over apricots. Bake in a preheated hot oven (200°C/400°F) for 15 minutes. Reduce heat to moderate (180°C/350°F) and bake for 30 minutes longer or until apricots are tender. Serve warm with cream or custard. Serves 6–8.

APRICOT CHICKEN

A recipe that swept the world – a way of turning chicken pieces into an exotic dish with only 3 ingredients.

1 large roasting chicken, cut into serving pieces
1 packet French onion soup mix
1 × 250 ml can (1 cup) apricot nectar
canned apricot halves to garnish (optional)

Arrange chicken pieces in one layer in a casserole. Sprinkle with soup mix and pour nectar over. Cover and bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/ 350°F) for 40 minutes or until chicken is tender, turning the pieces once or twice. If desired, garnish with canned apricots heated in a little syrup from the can. Serves 4.

DRIED APRICOT JAM

250 g (8 oz) dried apricots
2 lemons
4 cups water
4 cups sugar
6 blanched almonds

Cut each apricot in half. Halve the lemons, squeeze 3 tablespoons of juice and reserve. Gather lemon pips and tie in a muslin bag. Soak apricots and lemon pips in the water for several hours. Put apricots, pips and water into saucepan and cook slowly until fruit is soft. Remove pips. Warm sugar in a preheated very slow oven (120°C/250°F) for 10 minutes and add to fruit with strained lemon juice. Stir with a wooden spoon until sugar has dissolved.

Boil the fruit mixture quickly until setting point is reached (place a small teaspoon of jam on a saucer and wait 20 seconds, then run a finger through it; if it wrinkles at the edges and stays in 2 separate parts the jam is right for bottling). Cool slightly and stir once to distribute fruit evenly. Ladle into warm sterilised jars, including 1–2 almonds in each jar to represent kernels. Moisten clear preserve covers with cloth dipped in vinegar and cover, or cover with sterilised screw-on lids. Tie down, then cool. Makes about 3 cups.

NOTE: For sterilising jars and storing preserves see Jams.

APRICOT CRESCENTS

125 g (4 oz) butter or margarine
90 g (3 oz) cream or Neufchâtel cheese, softened
¾ cup flour, sifted
teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon cold water
apricot conserve
chopped nuts
sifted icing sugar

Cut butter and cheese into flour and salt. Add water and mix lightly with fork until blended. Chill until firm, then cut into 24 pieces. Keep dough chilled before rolling. Roll each piece very thin on floured board to form 8 cm (3 in) squares. Spread each with apricot conserve and sprinkle with nuts. Roll up from one corner and bend ends in slightly to form crescents. Put folded side down on ungreased baking trays and bake in a preheated very hot oven (230°C/450°F) for about 10 minutes. Dust icing sugar over cooled crescents. Makes 24.

SPICED APRICOTS

1 × 825 g can apricots
8 whole cloves
1 × 3 cm (1 in) cinnamon stick
8 whole allspice
¼ cup white vinegar
½ cup sugar
1 small orange, sliced
extra whole cloves (optional)

Drain apricots, reserving 1 cup syrup. Tie whole cloves, cinnamon and allspice in a piece of muslin or cheesecloth and put into saucepan with reserved apricot syrup, vinegar, sugar and orange slices. Bring to the boil. Add apricot halves and simmer for 5 minutes. Cover and allow to cool at room temperature. Remove spice bag. Serve warm or chilled. If liked, stud some apricots with extra whole cloves. Spiced apricots improve on keeping; after 1 week they are at their best. Serve with baked ham, roast pork or cold meats. Serves 8.

APRICOT MOUSSE

500 g (1 lb) dried apricots
½ cup sugar
¾ cup cream
1 teaspoon vanilla essence
whipped cream and slivered toasted almonds to decorate

Simmer apricots in water to cover for 25 minutes. Stir in sugar and cook for a further 5 minutes. Rub through a sieve or purée in a blender or food processor. Cool. Whip cream, add vanilla and fold into apricot purée. Spoon into small mousse pots or dessert bowls and chill. Decorate with whipped cream and almonds. Serves 6.

ARROZ CON POLLO (RICE WITH CHICKEN)

One of the best known dishes from Spain. Recipes may vary slightly from region to region, but flavourings should always include olive oil, garlic and saffron.

ARROZ CON POLLO

1 chicken, about 2 kg (4 lb), cut into serving pieces
¼ cup olive oil
1 × 130 g can pimientos, drained and sliced
1 large onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, crushed
2 large ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped
12 large green olives, stoned and sliced
1 cup shelled peas (fresh or frozen)
3 cups chicken stock
½ teaspoon saffron threads
2 cups long-grain rice
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Brown chicken pieces on all sides in hot oil. Add pimientos, onion, garlic, tomatoes, olives and peas. Fry together for a few minutes, stirring. Meanwhile, heat chicken stock and soak saffron threads in it for 5 minutes. Add stock to pan, bring to the boil, add rice and stir. Taste, and season with salt and pepper. Simmer, covered, for 30 minutes or until chicken is tender and rice has absorbed the liquid. Serves 4.

ARROZ CON POLLO MEXICANO (MEXICAN RICE WITH CHICKEN)

Arroz con pollo travelled from Spain to Mexico, then to Peru, Colombia and Cuba, and each country has its own adaptation. In Mexico, oregano and cilantro are used. Cilantro is the Mexican name for coriander or Chinese parsley.

6 chicken pieces (breasts, thighs, etc.)
½ cup olive oil
1 onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1½ cups long-grain rice
1 × 425 g can tomatoes, drained
1 teaspoon salt
freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano
3 cups chicken stock
1 × 130 g can pimientos, drained and sliced fresh cilantro (coriander or Chinese parsley) or chopped parsley to garnish

Wipe over chicken and cut into small serving-sized pieces. Heat oil in a large frying pan and sauté chicken until just browned. Remove chicken and sauté onion and garlic. Add rice and cook until grains are coated with oil, shaking pan and stirring rice around. Add tomatoes, salt, pepper, oregano and chicken stock, mixing gently. Return chicken pieces to pan, pushing them down into rice. Simmer, covered (foil will do), until all liquid has been absorbed and chicken and rice are tender. Garnish dish with strips of pimiento and sprigs of cilantro or chopped parsley. Serves 6.

ARTICHOKE

THE GLOBE OR COMMON ARTICHOKE

The leafy bud of a plant of the thistle family. When buying fresh artichokes, look for solid heads with tightly packed leaves. They should be used as soon as possible after buying. If not cooking the same day, store in a closed container in the refrigerator.

Basic preparation: Wash and drain artichokes and trim stems. Pull off any coarse outer leaves then cut one-third off the top of the artichokes or cut off the thorny tips of the remaining leaves with kitchen scissors. As each artichoke is prepared, drop at once into a bowl of cold water containing lemon juice or vinegar; use about 3 tablespoons to each litre (4 cups) of water. This will prevent discoloration. It is possible to remove the hairy choke before cooking, to form little cups which are boiled and then filled with a savoury sauce or stuffing.

To cook: The basic cooking methods for artichokes are boiling and braising.

Boiled artichokes: Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil, add artichokes and boil, uncovered, until they are tender (for 20–45 minutes depending on size and freshness). A leaf will pull away easily when cooked. Drain upside-down and serve hot with melted butter, warmed cream or Hollandaise Sauce, or allow to cool and serve with Vinaigrette Dressing, Mayonnaise or Sauce Tartare.

To eat: Using fingers, pull off one leaf at a time, and dip the base in butter, cream or sauce. Pull the leaf between the teeth to scrape away the soft fleshy base and discard the rest of the leaf. In the centre of older artichokes you will find the fuzzy portion called the choke. Lift up and discard the choke and eat the soft fond (bottom) underneath. This is the most delicate part, and the one often canned for use in salads and antipasti (as are hearts of artichokes).

Preserved artichokes: Hearts and fonds of artichokes are available canned or bottled in brine or in oil. They are used in the preparation of antipasti and hors d’oeuvre. Artichoke hearts in brine are drained, dressed with Vinaigrette Dressing and chopped parsley and served chilled.

Italian Artichokes in Wine: Use young artichokes with slender elongated heads. Cut the artichokes lengthways into quarters. Put in cold water to cover with some lemon slices as you prepare them. Heat a little olive oil in a heavy pan with a sprig of fresh, or a pinch of dried, oregano, and 1 clove garlic. Add artichokes and cook over a moderate heat, tossing the artichokes until they are burnished and crispy on the outside. Remove garlic clove, add ½ cup white wine, season with salt and black pepper, cover and simmer gently for 10–15 minutes, until artichokes are tender. Serve as a first course.

THE JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE

Despite the name, this vegetable is quite different from the globe artichoke. The globe is a bud; the Jerusalem artichoke is a tuber. About the size of a small potato, it is creamy-brown with a knobbly shape.

To cook: Wash well, peel and cut to the size of pigeons’ eggs, then drop into boiling salted water with a squeeze of lemon juice or a little wine added to prevent discoloration. Cook with the lid on for about 5 minutes. Drain, return to pan, add a good knob of butter and cook gently for about 10 minutes or until tender. Season with salt and pepper and toss with a few chopped fresh herbs.

Purée of Jerusalem Artichokes: Peel and quarter artichokes and cook as above. Rub through a sieve, return to saucepan and heat gently with a few tablespoons of milk or cream and a touch of nutmeg.

Jerusalem Artichoke Soup: Prepare Purée of Jerusalem Artichokes (above).Add enough chicken stock or milk to make a cream soup consistency. Swirl with cream.

BRAISED ARTICHOKES

Artichokes cooked gently with oil, wine and aromatics are an epicurean treat.

6 globe artichokes
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 cup dry white wine
2 cloves garlic
1 small onion, finely chopped
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
2 sprigs fresh oregano, or pinch dried
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Prepare artichokes (see above). Combine remaining ingredients in a heavy saucepan, add artichokes and cook, covered, for 30–45 minutes or until tender. Add a little more oil and wine if liquid is drying out. Serve hot or warm with pan juices poured over. Alternatively, drain and chill and serve with Vinaigrette Dressing. Serves 6.

VARIATION

ARTICHOKES À LA GRECQUE: Prepare as for Braised Artichokes, adding 2 peeled, seeded and chopped tomatoes. Serve warm with some of the pan sauce spooned over, or cold, cut into quarters, again with some of the delicious sauce in which they were cooked. Top with chopped parsley. Serves 6.

ARTICHOKES CLAMART

Choose very small, young artichokes for this dish. Prepare in a heavy enamelled cast iron pan or flameproof casserole and serve in the same dish.

8 small, young globe artichokes
75 g (2½ oz) butter
1 lettuce, shredded
2 cups shelled fresh peas
½ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon sugar
½ cup chicken or vegetable stock

Trim artichokes down to tender hearts. Melt 60 g (2 oz) butter in a heavy saucepan, add lettuce and place artichokes and peas on top. Add salt and sugar to taste and moisten with stock. Cover and simmer for about 30 minutes or until vegetables are tender. Add remaining butter and serve immediately. Serves 4.

VARIATION

ARTICHOKES CRÉCY: Prepare as for Artichokes Clamart, replacing peas with an equal quantity of small young carrots, or larger carrots, diced.

ARTICHOKE HEART SALAD

1 × 400 g can globe artichoke hearts
1 small firm lettuce, shredded
1 cup small, uncooked cauliflower florets
1 large tomato, peeled, seeded and diced
1 tablespoon snipped chives
2 tablespoons sliced stuffed olives
2 tablespoons chopped dill pickle
about ½ cup Vinaigrette Dressing

Drain artichokes and chill. Combine with remaining ingredients, adding enough dressing to moisten well. Serve at once as a first course, or as a lunch salad with cold meat. Serves 6.

ARTICHOKE HALVES GREEK-STYLE

6 large globe artichokes
4½ cups water
3 lemons
1 tablespoon flour
2 onions, chopped
1 cup olive oil
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Cut stems off artichokes. Remove bottom leaves and with scissors trim off brown thorny tips of all remaining leaves. Cut off tops and halve each artichoke lengthways. Soak in 4 cups water and juice of 2 lemons. Meanwhile, sprinkle flour over onions and sauté in olive oil until lightly browned. Arrange artichoke halves, cut sides up, in roasting tin or large heavy frying pan. Add salt and pepper and juice of remaining lemon to onion and oil, and pour over artichokes. Add remaining water. Cover and simmer over low heat for 35–40 minutes or until artichokes are tender. Serve warm or cold. Serves 6.

ARTICHOKES ROMAN-STYLE

Carciofi fritti vecchia Roma, the fried artichokes found on menus in Rome, are a treat. Young, tender artichokes, about 60 g (2 oz) in weight, are used for this dish.

6 baby globe artichokes
flour for dredging
1 large egg, lightly beaten
2 cups fresh breadcrumbs
1 cup olive oil
2 cups vegetable oil
salt

Trim artichoke stems even with their bases and remove any hard exterior leaves. Blanch artichokes in boiling water for 7 minutes or until just tender. Drain in a colander and refresh under cold running water. Spread leaves of artichokes gently outwards. Flatten them with the side of a large knife, being careful not to crack them, and pat dry. Dredge artichokes lightly in flour, then coat with egg, letting excess drip off. Finally coat with breadcrumbs, and shake off excess. Heat oils in a deep heavy saucepan over moderate heat and fry artichokes, a few at a time, for 3–5 minutes or until leaves are golden. Drain on paper towels. Sprinkle with salt and arrange on a heated platter. Serves 6 as a first course.

ASPARAGUS

This edible member of the lily family with its crisp stalks and closed, tender tips is considered a luxury vegetable throughout the world. Stalks may range from slender and green to thick, white and fleshy. Violet asparagus is favoured in Italy and wild asparagus is found in some places. Asparagus is delicious served hot, warm or cold. It may be served as an accompaniment, a first course, with salads, or combined with ingredients such as ham, cheese and eggs in main courses. When served as a separate course, it is best eaten with the fingers. When buying fresh asparagus look for firm, straight stalks with tightly closed, well-formed tips. Allow 6–8 spears per person when serving as a separate course.

Canned asparagus is one of the most versatile and popular of canned vegetables. It is used to make salads, sandwiches or a lovely mousse, and may be used in any of the ways suggested for hot, boiled asparagus.

Basic preparation: Wash gently in cold, running water. Break off the bottom of the stalks at the point where they will snap easily. If stalks seem woody or scaly, peel them thinly with a vegetable peeler or sharp knife.

To store: To keep fresh for longer stand the bunch in 2.5 cm (1 in) water and store in the fridge. Change the water frequently.

To cook: Asparagus is usually boiled, but may also be prepared Chinese-style (below).

Boiled asparagus: Put prepared stalks into a large, shallow pan of boiling, salted water. Cook, uncovered, for 8–10 minutes or until just tender. Lift out of pan and drain on paper towels or a napkin.

Chinese-style asparagus: Slice prepared stalks in slanted pieces, leaving tips whole. Heat enough butter to cover the bottom of a frying pan, add asparagus pieces and season with salt and pepper. When steam rises, cover the pan, lower the heat and cook for about 4 minutes until tender-crisp.

Ways to serve asparagus: Devotees enjoy asparagus in many different ways. See above for preparation and cooking of asparagus. Good canned asparagus may also be treated in the following ways.

Asparagus Flamande: Prepare, boil and drain 24–30 asparagus spears, or use drained canned asparagus. Hard-boil 4 eggs for 8–10 minutes. Melt 90 g (3 oz) butter. Serve asparagus to each guest with 2 hard-boiled egg halves and melted butter. Each guest mashes the hard-boiled eggs, then adds them to the butter, and dips the asparagus into the mixture. Serves 4.

Asparagus au Gratin: Prepare, boil and drain 24–30 asparagus spears, or use drained canned asparagus. Make Mornay Sauce, adding 2–3 teaspoons French mustard. Arrange asparagus in a buttered flameproof dish, spoon sauce over spears, sprinkle with ½ cup grated Parmasan cheese and 1 tablespoon melted butter, and brown under a preheated grill. Serves 4.

Asparagus Milanese: Proceed as in the recipe for Asparagus au Gratin, but omit mornay sauce. Serves 4.

Asparagus Hollandaise: Prepare, boil and drain 24–30 asparagus spears, or use drained canned asparagus. Keep warm. Make 1 quantity Hollandaise Sauce. Serve asparagus with sauce spooned over tips. Serves 4.

Asparagus with Melted Butter: Prepare, boil and drain 24–30 asparagus spears, or use drained canned asparagus. Keep warm. Melt 125 g (4 oz) butter with a grinding of white pepper and a squeeze of lemon juice. Serve asparagus warm with melted butter. Serves 4.

Asparagus Polonaise: Prepare, boil and drain 24–30 asparagus spears, or use drained canned asparagus. Keep warm. To make polonaise butter, combine 3 hard-boiled egg yolks, chopped, with 1 tablespoon chopped parsley. Heat 2 tablespoons butter and fry ¾ cup fresh breadcrumbs until golden. Add egg yolks and parsley. Serve asparagus with polonaise butter. Serves 4.

Asparagus Noisette: Prepare, boil and drain 24–30 asparagus spears, or use drained canned asparagus. Keep warm. Heat 90 g (3 oz) butter until a light hazelnut (noisette) colour. Serve asparagus with browned butter. Serves 4.

ASPARAGUS AND HAM AU GRATIN

An excellent dish for a first course or light lunch.

18 large, cooked asparagus spears (fresh or canned)
18 paper-thin slices cooked ham or prosciutto
125 g (4 oz) butter, melted
1 cup grated Parmesan cheese
6 slices white bread, crusts removed
butter for frying

Wrap each asparagus spear in a slice of ham. Arrange seam sides down, close together, in a shallow baking dish greased with a little of the butter. Sprinkle with half the remaining butter, then the cheese, then top with rest of butter. Bake in a preheated very hot oven (230°C/450°F) for 10 minutes or until topping is golden-brown. Meanwhile, cut bread into triangles and fry on both sides in a little butter until crisp and golden. Serve asparagus garnished with triangles of fried bread. Serves 6.

CREAM OF FRESH ASPARAGUS SOUP

500 g (1 lb) fresh asparagus
salt
6 cups chicken stock
1 medium onion, finely chopped
2 sticks celery, finely chopped
45 g (1½ oz) butter
2 tablespoons flour
½ cup cream
freshly ground white pepper
paprika
2 finely chopped hard-boiled eggs to garnish

Wash asparagus and remove tips. Simmer tips in lightly salted water for 4–6 minutes or until tender. Drain and reserve. Cut stalks into small pieces and place in saucepan with stock, onion and celery. Simmer, covered, for 20 minutes or until vegetables are tender. Drain, reserving liquid, and rub vegetables through a sieve. Melt butter in a large saucepan, stir in flour, then slowly stir in cream over low heat. Add warm asparagus stock and stir until soup thickens. Add vegetable purée and reserved asparagus tips and heat through. Season with salt and pepper. Ladle into heated bowls and top each serving with a sprinkle of paprika and a spoonful of chopped egg. Serves 6.

ASPARAGUS MOUSSE

2 × 440 g cans asparagus spears
2 tablespoons powdered gelatine
6 tablespoons water
1½ cups cream
salt and freshly ground white pepper
3 egg whites
few drops green food colouring
extra asparagus spears and canned pimiento strips to garnish

Drain asparagus and rub through a sieve, or purée in a blender then rub through a sieve to remove any stringy stalk. Soften gelatine in water, then stand container in hot water until dissolved. Add to asparagus purée, stirring continuously. Cool, then chill until mixture begins to thicken round edges. Whip cream lightly and gradually stir into asparagus mixture until smooth. Season with salt and pepper. Beat egg whites to a firm snow and fold in with a few drops of green food colouring, if desired. Pour into a 7-cup mould which has been rinsed with cold water. Chill. To serve, unmould and garnish with extra asparagus spears and pimiento strips. Serve very cold. Serves 8.

ASPARAGUS ROLLS

Popular on the afternoon tea tray, or with pre-dinner drinks. Also suitable for large receptions.

12 slices sandwich bread, crusts removed
60 g (2 oz) butter, softened
1 × 440 g can asparagus spears, drained salt and freshly ground white pepper

Butter bread and place 1 asparagus spear diagonally on each slice. Season with salt and pepper, roll up and secure with a toothpick. Store, seam sides down, in shallow containers, covered with a slightly dampened tea-towel, in refrigerator. Take out 15 minutes before serving, and remove toothpicks to serve. Makes 12.

ASPIC

This is a clear, savoury jelly in which cold fish, poultry, meat or vegetables may be served. Aspic is also used to cover food, chopped for a garnish, or mixed with Mayonnaise to coat cold dishes. It is sold in powdered form with instructions for use on the package, or can be made at home.

To make an aspic mould: After preparing aspic, allow it to cool until it is the consistency of unbeaten egg white. Have the mould chilled. Spoon a little aspic into the mould and run it round to cover the inside completely. Keep aspic jelly moving until it sets, to ensure only a thin coating. Allow to set firm. Pour a little aspic into a saucer, dip decorations – hard-boiled egg slices, raw or cooked vegetable or fruit pieces – into it and arrange them over base and sides of mould. (Place small decorations on the end of a skewer for dipping and arranging.) When design is completed, put to chill until set firm before adding filling.

To coat food with aspic: Have food well dried and chilled. Place on a rack over a tray. Cool aspic to consistency of unbeaten egg white and spoon over food. Allow to set firm. Pour a little aspic into a saucer, dip decorations into it and arrange on food. Allow to set firm again, then spoon over 2–3 more layers of aspic, allowing each to set firm before adding the next. Aspic that runs onto the tray can be warmed and re-used.

Quick Aspic: Soften 1½ tablespoons powdered gelatine in ¼ cup cold water, then dissolve by standing container in hot water. Heat the contents of 1 × 440 g can consommé, and stir in gelatine mixture and 2 tablespoons port, sherry or Madeira. Pour through a scalded cloth into a bowl. Makes about 2 cups.

AUBERGINE

see Eggplant.

AVGOLEMONO

The name indicates an egg-lemon mixture, whipped into stock to make a delicate, creamy sauce. It is famous in Greek cookery and popular throughout the Balkans. The mixture is also used to thicken soup. The sauce is always made from the liquid in which meats or vegetables have been cooked, thickened with beaten egg and fresh lemon juice. Fish may be poached and the liquor used to make an avgolemono sauce. Chicken, lamb, meatballs and dolmas may all be served with this sauce.