Margaret Fulton’s Encyclopedia of Food and Cookery

ECCLES CAKES

These little English pastries, filled with fruit and spices, were once part of the Eccles Wakes. These festival holidays were held 300 years ago in the Lancashire town of Eccles to celebrate the dedication of the local parish church. They can be made using frozen or home-made puff pastry.

ECCLES CAKES

2 tablespoons butter, softened
2 tablespoons brown sugar
2 tablespoons finely chopped mixed candied peel
cup currants
¼ teaspoon mixed spice
1 × 375 g (12 oz) packet frozen puff pastry, thawed
1 egg white, lightly beaten
¼ cup caster sugar

Mix together butter, brown sugar, peel, currants and mixed spice. Roll out pastry dough thinly and cut into 8 cm (3 in) rounds. Place a spoonful of fruit mixture in centre of each round. Moisten edges of rounds with water and draw up edges of each round to meet in the centre and completely enclose filling. Press well together and turn over so join is underneath. Roll out lightly until currants just show through dough and cake is about 8 mm ( in) thick. Place on greased baking trays and leave in a cool place for 10 minutes. Make 3 slits in top of each cake, then brush with lightly beaten egg white and dredge with caster sugar. Bake in a preheated very hot oven (230°C/450°F) for about 15 minutes or until golden-brown and crisp. Remove from baking tray and cool on a wire rack. Makes about 12.

ÉCLAIR

A finger-shaped puff of choux pastry. Éclairs make one of the most delicate confections for afternoon tea or dessert or, filled with a savoury mixture, are served as a first course or as party savouries.

The shells for savoury éclairs are made from unsweetened choux pastry, shaped and baked in the same way as for sweet éclairs. They may be filled with a hot or cold savoury mixture.

For savoury fillings, see Profiteroles.

Party Éclairs: For miniature éclairs to serve as party savouries, place 1 quantity savoury Choux Pastry in a piping bag fitted with a 1 cm (½ in) plain tube, and pipe into 4 cm (1½ in) lengths about 5 cm (2 in) apart on lightly greased baking trays. Bake in a preheated very hot oven (230°C/450°F) for 10 minutes, then reduce the heat to moderate (180°C/ 350°F) and bake for a further 10 minutes or until golden-brown, firm and light in the hand. Slit each éclair along the side and dry out in the turned-off oven for 20 minutes, with door ajar. Fill with hot or cold savoury mixture of your choice. Makes about 24.

CHOCOLATE ÉCLAIRS

1 quantity sweetened Choux Pastry
1 cup cream
1 teaspoon caster sugar

Glossy chocolate icing

2 tablespoons cocoa powder, sifted
1½ tablespoons sugar
3 tablespoons water
1 cup icing sugar, sifted
few drops vanilla essence

Spoon choux pastry into a large piping bag fitted with a 1 cm (½ in) plain tube. Pipe mixture in 8 cm (3 in) lengths about 5 cm (2 in) apart on 2 lightly greased baking trays. Bake in a preheated very hot oven (230°C/450°F) for 12 minutes, then reduce the heat to moderate (180°C/350°F) and bake for 15–20 minutes more or until golden-brown, firm and light in the hand. Slit each éclair along the side, turn off the oven and leave éclairs in the oven to cool for 20 minutes with the door half open. Remove and cool completely on a wire rack. When cold, whip cream with sugar and fill the éclairs.

To make icing, stir cocoa, sugar and water over low heat until sugar has dissolved, then bring to the boil without stirring. Remove from the heat and stir in icing sugar and vanilla. Add a little boiling water if necessary to make a coating consistency. Spread over tops of éclairs and leave to set. Makes about 12.

VARIATIONS

RASPBERRY OR STRAWBERRY ÉCLAIRS: Make as for Chocolate Éclairs but fill with whole raspberries or sliced strawberries and whipped cream. Ice with Lemon Glacé Icing tinted pink.

COFFEE ÉCLAIRS: Make as for Chocolate Éclairs but fill with whipped cream flavoured with 1 tablespoon coffee liqueur, and ice with Coffee Glacé Icing.

EEL

Fresh eel is firm and delicately flavoured; its high oil content makes it rich eating. Smoked eel makes a luxury first course or canapé topping.

Basic preparation: Fresh eel is cleaned in the same way as other fish, and is always skinned before cooking. Cut it, on the diagonal, into 5–8 cm (2–3 in) pieces and peel off skin, then proceed according to the recipe.

Smoked eel is ready to eat. Simply remove the skin and lift fillets off the bone. Serve as a first course with lemon wedges and brown bread and butter, or place on small pieces of buttered brown bread, add a squeeze of lemon juice, a grinding of black pepper and a dab of Mayonnaise, and serve with drinks.

SAUTÉED EEL PROVENÇALE

750 g (1½ lb) eel
seasoned flour
2 tablespoons olive oil
60 g (2 oz) butter
6 golden shallots, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, crushed
½ cup fresh breadcrumbs
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
salt and freshly ground black pepper
lemon wedges to serve

Cut eel into pieces and skin as described above. Cut fillets from bones, roll in seasoned flour and sauté in the oil and half the butter until golden-brown. Remove from pan and keep warm. Add remaining butter to pan and keep warm. Add remaining butter to pan and sauté spring onions, garlic and breadcrumbs until crumbs are crisp. Stir in parsley, season with salt and pepper and spoon over eel. Serve immediately, with lemon wedges. Serves 4.

EGG

An egg is a remarkably efficient package of nutrition, being rich in protein, vitamins and minerals. Eggs are indispensable in the kitchen. They are used to thicken, as in custards or puddings; to leaven, as in soufflés, cakes and puffy omelettes; to emulsify, as in mayonnaise. A beaten egg stirred into hot, not boiling, liquid will thicken and enrich soups and sauces. Use a beaten egg to bind mixtures for croquettes, meatballs and stuffings, and if you want to fry foods, a coating of egg will protect the food and keep an outer coating of breadcrumbs in place. Beaten egg gives a beautiful shiny glaze when brushed over pastry before baking.

To buy and store: Eggs are bought graded according to weight; the medium (55 g/2 oz) ones are used in most recipes unless otherwise stated. Choose the freshest eggs possible by purchasing them from a busy shop with a fast turnover. A fresh egg when broken into a saucer should be quite highly domed, with the white thick and compact.

Never wash eggs before storing as this will destroy the natural protective film over the shells; store them in the refrigerator away from highly flavoured foods as the shells are porous and absorb odours. Place the pointed ends down to allow the air space at the rounded end to ‘breathe’.

Egg whites can be stored for 2–3 weeks in an airtight container in the refrigerator. To use: measure 1½ tablespoons for each egg white. Egg yolks may be covered with water, and refrigerated. Use within 5 days.

For best results in cooking, remove eggs from the refrigerator for a few hours before using. Eggs used at room temperature mix with other ingredients more readily and the whites whisk to a greater volume.

To whisk egg whites: These can be beaten by hand, with a whisk or rotary beater, or using an electric mixer. Whether you beat egg whites by hand or use a machine the basic principle is the same. The bowl and beater should be very clean, and the whites have no trace of yolk.

Start beating slowly until a soft foam forms, then add a pinch of salt and ½ teaspoon cream of tartar for 4 egg whites. Gradually increase the beating speed and circulate the beaters right round the bowl, to incorporate all the egg white and beat in as much air as possible. Beat until the whites are glossy and creamy. Their volume by now should be 7 times greater than when you started beating and should hold a soft peak when the beater is raised. Stop beating before the whites form very stiff peaks as they become dry and brittle and will not mix well with other ingredients.

To cook: Eggs, cooked on their own, can be baked, boiled, coddled, fried, poached, scrambled and made into an omelette.

Baked eggs: Butter small ramekins and break an egg into each. Season with salt and freshly ground white pepper, cover with 1 teaspoon warm cream or melted butter, and bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for 8–10 minutes until the white is set and the yolk still runny.

Diced bacon, ham, salami or chopped spinach may be placed in the bottom of each ramekin before adding the egg if you wish. Cheese can be sprinkled over the egg before adding the cream or butter.

Boiled eggs: Place eggs in a pan with cold water to cover. Bring to the boil and cook for 3 minutes for soft-boiled, 4 minutes for medium-boiled and 10 minutes for hard-boiled. Cool hard-boiled eggs rapidly under cold running water and tap gently all over to crack the shell and prevent an unsightly dark ring forming around the yolk. Store shelled hard-boiled eggs in cold water in the refrigerator.

Coddled eggs: Butter inside of egg coddler lightly and drop in 1–2 eggs. Add a tiny piece of butter and season with salt and pepper. Screw on lid and cook for 10 minutes in a saucepan of boiling water. The yolks should be soft, the whites just set. For variety, add grated cheese, chopped fresh herbs, sliced mushrooms or diced cooked ham.

Fried eggs: Melt enough bacon fat or butter to cover the bottom of a frying pan. When it begins to sizzle break the eggs, one at a time, into a cup and slide them into the pan. Fry gently, basting from time to time with the fat, until the eggs are cooked with firm whites and soft yolks or as you like them. Remove with an egg slice and serve at once.

Poached eggs: Use very fresh eggs, straight from the refrigerator, as they hold their shape better. Half fill a shallow pan with water, add ¼ teaspoon vinegar and bring to the boil. Break each egg into a cup, slide it into the water, cover the pan, remove from the heat and leave for 3½ minutes for soft eggs or 4 minutes for firmer ones. Remove, using an egg slice, drain and serve at once.

Scrambled eggs: For one person, beat together 2 eggs, 1 tablespoon milk or cream, salt and freshly ground pepper. Melt 2 teaspoons butter in a pan, pour in the eggs and cook over low heat, stirring gently until the eggs are creamy and soft. Serve immediately.

Omelettes: For 1–2 people, beat 3 eggs lightly with 1 tablespoon water, season with salt and freshly ground white pepper. Melt 15 g (½ oz) butter in a small frying pan and, when the foam subsides, pour in the eggs. Lift the cooked egg from the edges towards the centre – the uncooked egg will run underneath. Repeat until the eggs have set underneath but are still moist on top. Fold one-third of the omelette towards the centre and roll it out onto a heated plate, tilting the pan so that the omelette folds over again. Serve at once.

To fill omelettes: Heat the filling and spoon it across the centre just before the omelette is folded over. Use about 3 tablespoons of any of the following fillings: chopped cooked mushrooms; chopped fresh herbs; chopped cooked bacon and onion;warm asparagus tips; grated cheese; salmon or crab mixed with a little cream.

EGGS FLORENTINE

1½ cups cooked, chopped spinach, well drained
2 tablespoons cream
salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 eggs, poached and kept hot
4 slices Gruyère or Emmenthal cheese
4 black olives to garnish (optional)

Combine spinach, cream, salt and pepper and put into a gratin dish or 4 individual ramekins. Arrange eggs on spinach purée. Place a slice of cheese on each egg and put into a preheated hot oven (200°C/400°F), or under a preheated hot grill, until cheese melts and turns golden. Garnish with olives if liked and serve immediately. Serves 4.

EGGS NEW ORLEANS

3 tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped
1 green pepper, cored, seeded and chopped
1 onion, chopped
2 sticks celery, chopped
3 tablespoons tomato paste
1 teaspoon sugar
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 bay leaf
1 cup fresh breadcrumbs
4 eggs
½ cup grated cheese

In a saucepan combine all ingredients except breadcrumbs, eggs and cheese. Simmer, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes. Remove bay leaf, then stir in breadcrumbs. Place mixture in a shallow ovenproof dish. Make 4 depressions on surface and break an egg into each. Sprinkle with grated cheese and bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for 15–20 minutes or until cheese has melted and the eggs are firm. Serves 4.

EGGS WITH WATERCRESS MAYONNAISE

3 cups watercress sprigs
½ cup thick Mayonnaise
squeeze lemon juice
cayenne or Tabasco sauce
¼ cup Vinaigrette Dressing
4–5 hard-boiled eggs, halved

Boil 1 cup watercress sprigs in water for 2 minutes. Drain well and purée in a blender or push through a sieve. Add to mayonnaise with lemon juice and cayenne or Tabasco. Toss remaining cress through vinaigrette dressing and arrange down centre of a platter. Place egg halves on cress and coat with mayonnaise. Serves 4.

SALMON-STUFFED EGGS

16 (2 × 50 g cans) flat anchovy fillets
milk
8 hard-boiled eggs, halved
90 g (3 oz) smoked salmon, chopped
½ cup Mayonnaise
freshly ground black pepper
capers
1 tablespoon snipped fresh dill or chives
watercress or shredded lettuce

Drain oil from anchovies and put fillets in a shallow dish with a little milk to cover. Remove yolks from the egg halves and mash with smoked salmon, mayonnaise and pepper. Spoon mixture back into egg whites, mounding it. Drain anchovies, pat dry and cut each fillet lengthways into 2 strips. Garnish each egg with 2 strips anchovy, crossed in the centre. Place a caper on each quarter of yolk and sprinkle with dill or chives. Arrange on cress or lettuce. Serves 8.

TEA EGGS (MARBLED EGGS)

In China eggs are often pickled (known in the West as thousand-year-old eggs), or preserved by salting. The Chinese also braise eggs in this mixture of tea and soy sauce.

6 eggs
2 tablespoons Indian tea leaves
2½ cups water
2 tablespoons soy sauce

Place eggs in a saucepan, cover with cold water and bring gently to the boil. Simmer for 10 minutes. Drain eggs and crack shells all over with a spoon without removing any shell. Boil tea leaves in the 2½ cups water for 5–6 minutes until liquid is strong and dark. Add soy sauce and stir. Remove from heat. Put eggs into liquid and leave for at least 1 hour or until liquid is cool. To serve, remove shells. You will find that some of the tea mixture has seeped through the cracks in shells to form a marble-like pattern on the whites. Makes 6.

EGGS MORNAY

250 g (8 oz) macaroni
90 g (3 oz) butter
3 tablespoons flour
2½ cups milk
90 g (3 oz) Cheddar cheese, grated
salt and freshly ground black pepper
pinch nutmeg
6 hard-boiled eggs, halved
parsley to garnish

Bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil. Add macaroni and cook rapidly for 15–20 minutes, or until tender. Meanwhile, melt 60 g (2 oz) butter in a saucepan, stir in flour and cook, stirring for 2 minutes. Add milk and stir until sauce boils and thickens. Beat in 60 g (2 oz) cheese, and season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Do not allow sauce to boil once cheese has been added. Drain macaroni and toss with remaining butter. Spoon hot macaroni into flameproof serving dish, top with eggs and spoon sauce over. Sprinkle with remaining cheese and put under preheated hot grill until cheese melts and browns. Garnish with parsley and serve immediately. Serves 6.

EGG CROQUETTES

60 g (2 oz) butter
3 tablespoons flour
1 cup milk
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
4 hard-boiled eggs, chopped
2 eggs
salt and freshly ground black pepper
pinch nutmeg
flour
dry breadcrumbs
oil or dripping for deep-frying
parsley to garnish

Melt butter in small saucepan, add flour and cook for 2 minutes. Add milk and cook until thick, stirring constantly. Remove from heat and, while sauce is still hot, stir in parsley, hard-boiled eggs, and 1 beaten egg. Season well with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Turn into a shallow dish or tin and smooth over with palette knife. Chill until ready to use (several hours if possible).Turn croquette mixture onto a floured board and cut into small sausage shapes. Dip into flour, then second egg beaten with ½ teaspoon salt. Roll in breadcrumbs. Deep-fry in hot fat until golden-brown. Drain on paper towels and serve immediately, garnished with parsley. Serves 4.

CURRIED EGGS

45 g (1½ oz) butter
1 small onion, finely chopped
½ cooking apple, peeled, cored and finely chopped
2 tablespoons curry powder
2 tablespoons flour
2½ cups stock or water
1 teaspoon curry paste (optional)
1 tablespoon chopped mango chutney
1 tablespoon brown sugar
juice ½ lemon
½ teaspoon salt
30 g (1 oz) sultanas
8 hard-boiled eggs, halved

Melt butter in a heavy saucepan, add onion and apple and cook gently for 5–6 minutes. Stir in curry powder and flour, then gradually stir in stock or water and bring to the boil. Add remaining ingredients (except eggs), cover and simmer for 20–30 minutes. Arrange eggs in a heated serving dish. Pour over sauce, and serve with boiled rice and chutney. Serves 4–6.

STRACIATELLA ALLA ROMANA (EGG AND CHEESE SOUP)

3 eggs
1½ tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
6 cups chicken stock

Beat eggs until frothy. Add cheese and parsley. Bring stock to a rolling boil. Pour egg mixture into it, stirring all the time until eggs are set. Serve immediately. Serves 6.

STUFFED EGGS

8 hard-boiled eggs, halved
60 g (2 oz) butter
2 tablespoons cream
½ teaspoon dry mustard
salt and freshly ground black pepper
paprika

Remove yolks from eggs, mash and mix with butter, cream, mustard, salt and pepper. Stuff egg whites with the mixture, sprinkle with paprika, and chill before serving. Serves 4–8.

VARIATIONS

STUFFED EGGS WITH LIVER PÂTÉ: Use Stuffed Egg recipe, adding 2 tablespoons chopped pickle relish and ½ cup liver pâté to egg yolks.

STUFFED EGGS WITH ANCHOVIES: Use Stuffed Egg recipe, adding 1 small can anchovy fillets, drained and crushed, or 1 tablespoon anchovy paste to egg yolks. Garnish with capers.

STUFFED EGGS WITH DEVILLED HAM: Use Stuffed Egg recipe, adding 2 or more tablespoons devilled ham to egg yolks. Garnish with chopped parsley.

STUFFED EGGS WITH OLIVES: Use Stuffed Egg recipe, adding 2 tablespoons chopped stuffed green or black olives to egg yolks.

STUFFED EGGS WITH MUSHROOMS: Use Stuffed Egg recipe, adding 2–3 tablespoons chopped, sautéed or raw mushrooms to egg yolks. Garnish with a bit of canned pimiento.

STUFFED EGGS WITH CAVIAR: Use Stuffed Egg recipe, adding 2 or more tablespoons caviar to egg yolks. Garnish with chutney.

CURRIED STUFFED EGGS: Use Stuffed Egg recipe, adding 1 teaspoon curry powder to egg yolks. Garnish with chutney.

STUFFED EGGS WITH HERBS: Use Stuffed Egg recipe, adding chopped fresh chives, chervil, parsley, savory or other herbs to egg yolks.

EGG FLIP

A nutritious meal-in-a-glass which should be in everyone’s repertoire. An egg flip is the perfect breakfast-on-the-run and an instant, light, digestible meal at any time of day.

EGG FLIP

1 egg
1 teaspoon sugar
¼ teaspoon vanilla essence, or 1 teaspoon brandy or sherry
1 cup hot or cold milk

Beat egg, sugar and vanilla, brandy or sherry thoroughly together. Add milk and beat until frothy. Pour into a glass and serve immediately. Serves 1.

VARIATIONS

FLUFFY EGG FLIP: Follow recipe for Egg Flip but separate the egg. Beat yolk, sugar and flavouring together, and stir in milk. Beat egg white until stiff, fold into mixture and serve immediately.

FRUIT EGG FLIP: Follow recipe for Egg Flip but substitute orange or pineapple juice for milk.

EGG NOG

A smooth but potent blend of eggs, cream and brandy, rum or whisky. Egg nog is a festive drink, associated especially with Christmas.

EGG NOG

6 eggs, separated
½ cup caster sugar
2 cups brandy, rum or whisky
4 cups cream
pinch salt
freshly grated nutmeg

Beat egg yolks with sugar until thick. Beat in spirit and cream. Beat egg whites with salt until they form soft peaks, then fold into cream mixture. Serve in small punch cups or coffee cups, sprinkled with grated nutmeg. Serves 10–12.

EGGPLANT (AUBERGINE)

Although there are many varieties of eggplant, ranging from white to almost black, the rich, purple one is the most familiar. Eggplant combines well with other vegetables such as tomatoes, zucchini and peppers. It makes a wonderful pickle. Cooked and mashed with spices, it is served as a dip (see Baba Ghannouj). It makes a case for savoury stuffings, and adds distinction to meat dishes and stews. Eggplant, diced or sliced and fried in butter or oil, can be served with eggs, fried or grilled fish, lamb chops, steaks or chicken. Small finger eggplants are known as Lebanese and long tom eggplant.

When buying eggplants, look for smooth, firm, shiny vegetables with no blemishes and a fresh, green calyx. Avoid the very large ones as they can often be spongy with little taste. Eggplants should be used as soon as possible after buying as they deteriorate quickly. If not using immediately, store, covered, in the refrigerator.

Basic preparation: Eggplants are often dégorged (treated with salt to remove excess liquid) before cooking. This process is aimed at removing any bitterness and also prevents them from becoming soggy when cooked, and from soaking up too much oil if fried.

To dégorge: Remove stem and calyx and cut the eggplant in half lengthways, or cut into slices. Score the surface of the flesh, sprinkle with salt and leave on a tilted plate or in a colander for 30 minutes or so, for liquid to run off. Rinse off excess salt and dry thoroughly with paper towels before proceeding with the recipe.

To cook: Eggplant may be grilled, pan-fried, sautéed or baked.

Grilled eggplant: Slice eggplant thickly (do not peel) and dégorge (see above). Brush both sides with oil and season with freshly ground black pepper. Grill under a preheated grill, turning once, until surface is flecked with brown and flesh is soft. Season with salt after cooking.

Serve with grilled meats.

Fried eggplant: Slice eggplant thickly (do not peel) and dégorge (see above). Dip in flour and fry in olive oil over medium heat until golden-brown. Drain on paper towels and season with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Serve as a hot vegetable, or as a first course with a sauce of chilled plain yogurt flavoured with garlic and mint.

Eggplant may also be cut into large dice and fried as above.

Baked eggplant: Brush whole, unpeeled eggplants with oil and bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for 30 minutes or until soft. Halve the eggplants lengthways and scoop the flesh into a bowl. Mash with a little butter, freshly ground black pepper, salt, crushed garlic and chopped fresh herbs such as parsley, basil or mint. Replace in shells, sprinkle with grated cheese or buttered breadcrumbs and reheat in the oven or under a preheated grill until golden and bubbling.

EGGPLANT PICKLE

Serve with shish kebabs, meatballs, chicken or curry dishes.

2 medium eggplants
1 cup vinegar
¼ cup lemon juice
2 teaspoons mustard seeds
2 teaspoons coriander seeds, toasted
1 teaspoon fennel seeds
3 cloves garlic
2 teaspoons fresh ginger, chopped
pinch chilli powder
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Pierce eggplants all over with a fork and place on rack in a preheated hot oven (200°C/400°F), with a dish on the shelf below to catch juices. Bake for about 30 minutes or until soft. Halve lengthways, scoop out flesh and chop finely. Mix with ½ cup vinegar to prevent discolouring. Put lemon juice and remaining vinegar into a blender with mustard, coriander and fennel seeds, garlic and ginger and blend until smooth. Add to eggplant flesh and season to taste with chilli powder, salt and pepper. Spoon into sterilised jars and store, covered, in the refrigerator. Makes 3–4 cups.

EGGPLANT PARMIGIANA

2 medium eggplants, thickly sliced
salt
1 small onion, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, crushed
½ cup olive oil
1 cup chopped canned tomatoes
freshly ground black pepper
90 g (3 oz) prosciutto, finely sliced
½ cup grated Parmesan cheese
15 g (½ oz) butter

Sprinkle eggplant slices with salt. Toss and let stand for 1 hour. Meanwhile, make sauce: fry onion and garlic in 1 tablespoon oil until soft. Add tomatoes and simmer, covered, for 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Rinse and dry eggplant slices. Fry over fairly high heat in remaining oil until golden-brown on both sides. Drain on paper towels. Arrange slices overlapping in a shallow baking dish, covering each slice with a slice of prosciutto, a spoonful of tomato sauce, a grinding of pepper and a sprinkling of Parmesan. Dot with butter and bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for 30–40 minutes. Serves 4.

STUFFED EGGPLANT

2 large eggplants
salt
4 tablespoons oil
1 onion, chopped
4 tomatoes, peeled and chopped
1 clove garlic, crushed
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
freshly ground black pepper
½ cup beef stock
2 tablespoons butter
1½ cups fresh white breadcrumbs
½ cup grated Cheddar cheese

Cut eggplants in half lengthways, slash cut edges, sprinkle with salt and leave to stand upside-down for 1 hour. Drain and dry on paper towels. Heat oil in a frying pan and fry eggplant gently for a few minutes, cut sides down. Remove from heat, carefully scoop out flesh, not damaging skins, and chop it finely. Mix together eggplant flesh, onion, tomatoes, garlic, parsley and pepper. Fill eggplant shells and place them in a flameproof gratin dish with stock. Cover with foil and bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/ 350°F) for 30–40 minutes or until eggplant is tender. Melt butter in a small frying pan and fry breadcrumbs until crisp and golden. Sprinkle crumbs over cooked eggplant, top with cheese and grill until cheese melts. Serves 4.

EGGPLANT MOUSSE

This delicious mousse is wonderfully versatile. Use it to fill halves of tomatoes, or serve it as an appetiser in a brightly coloured bowl with corn chips or crusty bread, or sticks of cucumber, zucchini and fennel for dipping. The mousse improves when made a day ahead and left in the refrigerator.

3 large eggplants, sliced
salt
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 onions, very finely chopped
3 cloves garlic, crushed
2 anchovies, finely chopped
freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley or basil
juice ½ lemon

Sprinkle eggplant slices with salt. Toss and let stand for 1 hour. Rinse and dry eggplant slices. Sprinkle with olive oil and place in an oiled baking dish. Bake in a preheated moderately hot oven (190°C/375°F) for 1 hour or until soft. Pass eggplant through a food mill or lightly purée in a food processor. Add onions, garlic, anchovies, salt and pepper (it should be highly seasoned). Chill. Before serving, sprinkle on parsley and lemon juice and, if you like, a few drops of olive oil. Makes 2 cups.

EGGPLANT PROVENÇALE

Halved eggplants, filled with a minced meat mixture and served hot with tomato sauce.

3 medium eggplants
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1 green pepper, cored, seeded and chopped
500 g (1 lb) minced steak
1¼ teaspoons salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
½ teaspoon dried oregano
½ cup grated Romano cheese
¼ cup dry breadcrumbs
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1 quantity Basic Tomato Sauce

Cook whole eggplants in boiling water, covered, for 15 minutes. Drain and cut in half lengthways. Carefully remove flesh, leaving a shell 1 cm (½ in) thick. Chop flesh. Heat oil in a heavy frying pan, add onion, garlic and green pepper and sauté until just tender. Combine eggplant flesh with sautéed mixture. Add remaining ingredients, except tomato sauce, and mix well. Fill eggplant shells with mixture and place in a greased baking pan. Brush tops with additional oil and bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for about 45 minutes. Serve with tomato sauce. Serves 6.

EMPANADAS

These spicy meat turnovers are popular in several Latin American countries. Fillings vary from region to region, and the empanadas may be baked or deep-fried.

EMPANADAS

Pastry

4 cups flour
2 teaspoons paprika
½ teaspoon salt
185 g (6 oz) butter or lard
cold water

Filling

½ cup oil
1 onion, finely chopped
1 tomato, peeled, seeded and chopped
1 teaspoon paprika
1 kg (2 lb) lean stewing beef, trimmed and cut into 6 mm (¼ in) dice
2 teaspoons flour
½ cup beef stock
½ teaspoon ground cumin
salt
½ teaspoon chilli powder
1 hard-boiled egg, chopped
¼ cup stoned, chopped green olives
cup sultanas

To make pastry, sift flour, paprika and salt together, and rub in fat. Using a knife, stir in enough water to make a fairly stiff dough. Knead lightly, wrap in plastic wrap and chill for 30 minutes.

To prepare filling, heat oil in a large frying pan, add onion and fry gently until golden-brown. Add tomato and paprika and cook slowly until soft. Add meat, flour, stock, cumin, salt to taste and chilli. Stir until mixture comes to the boil. Cover and simmer for 15 minutes, then remove lid and cook rapidly for 5–10 minutes to reduce liquid by half. Cool mixture.

Divide pastry into pieces about the size of an egg. Roll each piece thin to form an 18 cm (7 in) circle. Put 2 tablespoons meat filling, 1 teaspoon chopped egg, ½ teaspoon chopped olives and a few sultanas in the centre of each pastry circle.

Spread filling over half the circle, leaving a 2 cm (¾ in) margin. Moisten edges of pastry and fold over to make turnovers, pressing edges firmly together. Pinch edge between thumb and finger and fold pinched part over onto unpinched part, or fold pastry circle to within 1 cm (½ in) of opposite edge, fold lower half over the upper and crimp. Chill empanadas for 20 minutes, then bake in a preheated hot oven (200°C/400°F) for 15 minutes. Alternatively, deep-fry in oil until golden-brown and drain on crumpled paper towels. Makes 18.

ENCHILADAS

Spicy enchiladas are a Mexican dish made of flat, soft tortillas (see Tortilla) dipped in a chilli and cumin-flavoured sauce, rolled around a filling and topped with more sauce. Traditionally they are sprinkled with grated cheese and garnished with hard-boiled egg, radish and lettuce. There are many different enchiladas; cooked or leftover meat, fish or poultry can be used. Follow recipe for Enchiladas de Pollo using meat of your choice.

ENCHILADAS DE POLLO (CHICKEN-STUFFED TORTILLAS IN SAUCE)

2 eggs, beaten
2 tablespoons water
¼ teaspoon cinnamon
12 Tortillas, about 13 cm (5 in) in diameter
oil for frying

Sauce

2 tablespoons olive oil
6 tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped
1 onion, chopped
1 green or red pepper, seeded and chopped
½ teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon chilli powder
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Filling

250 g (8 oz) cooked chicken meat, chopped
¼ cup raisins
½ cup chopped blanched almonds
2 tablespoons chopped green olives

Garnish

½ small lettuce, shredded
3 radishes, finely sliced
1 Spanish onion, finely sliced into rings
1 hard-boiled egg, sliced

To make the sauce, heat the oil in a frying pan and sauté tomatoes, onion and green or red pepper until tender. Add cumin, chilli powder, salt and pepper. Remove from heat and keep warm.

Combine all the filling ingredients and mix well. Beat eggs with water and cinnamon until frothy, then dip each tortilla into this mixture to coat. Place some of the filling in centre of each tortilla, roll up and secure with wooden toothpicks. Heat oil in a frying pan and sauté enchiladas for about 2 minutes on each side or until golden-brown. Drain on paper towels. Place on a heated serving dish, pour sauce over and arrange garnish around edge. Serves 4–6.

ENDIVE, CURLY

A member of the chicory family whose decorative, curly-fringed leaves and pleasantly bitter taste make it a good partner to other greens, fruit or other robust-flavoured ingredients in a salad.

Basic preparation: Discard tough outer green leaves and break tender leaves off tough stalks. Wash leaves in cold water, dry in a salad dryer or on a tea-towel and store in a closed plastic bag in the refrigerator to crisp.

ENDIVE, APPLE AND WALNUT SALAD

Serve with grilled chicken or with cold meats.

½ bunch curly endive, trimmed and crisped
1 red and 1 green apple, cored and cut into thin wedges
2 teaspoons lemon juice
¼ cup walnut pieces

Dressing

2 teaspoons lemon juice
salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons walnut or olive oil
2 tablespoons sour cream

Place endive in a salad bowl. Toss apples with lemon juice and add to bowl. Make dressing: mix lemon juice with a little salt and pepper, beat in oil a little at a time, then sour cream. Pour over salad and toss lightly. Add walnuts, toss again and serve immediately. Serves 6.

ENSALADA SEVILLANA (SEVILLE WINTER SALAD)

1 bunch curly endive, trimmed and crisped
1 red pepper, cored, seeded and sliced
2 small onions, finely sliced into rings
16 black olives, stoned
2 oranges, peeled and finely sliced into rounds

Dressing

¼ cup olive oil
1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
1 clove garlic, crushed
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon sugar
little fresh or dried tarragon

Mix all salad ingredients together in a salad bowl. Combine ingredients for dressing in a screw-top jar, shake well and pour over salad just before serving. Serves 4–6.

ENTRECÔTE

Meaning ‘between the ribs’, entrecôte was originally the French name for a beef steak from the rib section, but the term is now widely used on menus to denote any fine steak dish. The dish is named after its sauce or garnish, for example entrecôte chasseur is a grilled or pan-fried steak with Chasseur Sauce.

ENTRECÔTES VERT-PRÉ

4 rib, sirloin or rump steaks, cut 2.5–4 cm (1–1½ in) thick, each weighing about 200 g (7 oz)
Straw Potatoes
watercress
Maître d’Hôtel Butter

Grill or pan-fry steaks until rare or medium, as desired. Put each steak onto a heated plate and garnish with a portion of straw potatoes and a small bouquet of watercress. Place a slice of maître d’hôtel butter on each steak and serve immediately. Serves 4.

ENTRÉE

Today, an entrée describes a made-up dish, served as a first course or as a light supper or lunch dish – it may even be the main dish of a meal.

The French word entrée means ‘way in’ or ‘entrance’. At a formal dinner, these dishes follow the soup and fish course and come before the main meat course. It is amusing to go through the menus of old-fashioned books – one cannot help but wonder how they did it. Today, much simpler menus are in favour and the separate hors d’oeuvre, soup, fish and entrée courses have practically combined into a first or starter course, and any one of these courses may be served.

Since entrées are usually ‘dressed’ or ‘made’ dishes, they are considered the first course to show the cook’s skill to the full. Attractive presentation is vital and, luckily, by their nature these small portions of meat, fish and so on, and their accompaniments, can be arranged in myriad different ways: in a pretty pastry case, en brochette, in individual ramekins or shells. They may also be individual feather-light souf-flés, golden croquettes, fritters, filled crêpes or bouchées, dainty portions of Beef Stroganoff, or sautéed calf’s liver (see Liver).

ESCABECHE (ESCOVITCH)

This dish is a form of pickled fish; the sauce preserves the fish with or without refrigeration for 2 days. It is served throughout the West Indies, but in Jamaica it is called Escovitch.

ESCABECHE

1 kg (2 lb) fish fillets
flour for coating
1 quantity Basic Fritter Batter
olive oil for deep-frying

Sauce

1 cup dry white wine
1 cup white wine vinegar
1 cup olive oil
1 teaspoon salt
6 black peppercorns

Pickles

2 cups finely sliced mixed vegetables (carrots, turnips, onions and green beans)
1 red pepper, seeded and sliced
1 green pepper, seeded and sliced
2 cloves garlic, sliced
1 chilli, seeded and finely chopped (optional)
1 cup white vinegar
1 tablespoon sugar

Cut fish into bite-size strips or cubes. Roll in flour, dip into batter and fry in oil until golden-brown. Drain on paper towels and cool. Mix together ingredients for sauce and set aside. Cover pickle vegetables with vinegar, add sugar and boil for 3 minutes. Cool. Place fish in an earthenware bowl, cover with sauce and pickles and marinate for 24 hours. Drain before serving with a salad. Serves 8.

ESCALOPE

Escalope is a French word which may mean any thin, boneless and skinless slice of meat or fish, but it is mainly used for fine slices of veal, beaten thin. The same delicate slices feature in the cuisines of various countries and take different names accordingly. The French escalope becomes scaloppine (plural, scaloppini) or sometimes costolette (cutlet) in Italian; the German name is schnitzel; in English, it is a scallop or simply a veal steak. You may find it under any of these names in butchers’ shops. Classically, escalopes are cut from the top of the leg, across the grain. Thin veal steaks from other sections are often sold as escalopes, schnitzels, etc., and they may also be satisfactory.

Basic preparation: If you buy large veal steaks which separate into natural divisions, divide them. Snip around the edges so that escalopes will cook without curling. If not already beaten out, place each one between 2 sheets of greaseproof paper and beat gently with a cutlet bat, rolling pin or the flat side of a meat mallet (not the knobbly side, which would tear the meat) to a thickness of 5 mm (¼ in).

Tiny escalopines (Italian piccati) can be prepared at home from a loin or set of rib cutlets. Cut the eye of meat from the bone and slice across about 2 cm (¾ in) thick. Beat each slice out as described.