t

TABASCO SAUCE

An orange-red fiery liquid made from hot red peppers and known by its trade name ‘Tabasco’.Tabasco sauce should always be used with discretion – 1 or 2 drops is often enough. Use in soups, cocktails and barbecue sauces, salad dressings, savoury butters, tomato juice, chilli dishes and also some egg or fish dishes. A drop added to scrambled eggs, fish cakes or salmon mornay enhances the flavour. Green Tabasco is also available but is not as popular as the fiery red.

SPICY AVOCADO SAUCE

1 large avocado, halved and stoned
1 tablespoon lemon juice
3 drops Tabasco sauce
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tomato, peeled, seeded and chopped
¼ cup finely chopped parsley
½ teaspoon ground coriander
1 tablespoon oil
1 tablespoon white vinegar

Scoop flesh from avocado into a bowl. Add lemon juice and mash roughly. Mix in Tabasco, salt, pepper and tomato. Blend to a smooth purée or push it through a sieve, then beat in parsley, coriander, oil and vinegar. Cover and refrigerate for 1 hour. Serve with poultry or fish, or as a dipping sauce for meatballs. Makes about 1½ cups.

TABLET

A Scottish version of fudge. Take care to stir gently or the mixture will become grainy before it has caramelised thoroughly.

TABLET

1¼ cups milk
4 cups sugar
60 g (2 oz) butter
1 × 400 g can sweetened condensed milk
¼ teaspoon vanilla essence
walnut halves to decorate

Combine milk, sugar and butter in a heavy saucepan. Stir over low heat for about 20 minutes or until sugar dissolves, then stir in condensed milk and bring to the boil. Boil steadily over medium heat for about 25 minutes or until dark golden-brown. Add vanilla and stir well. Remove from heat and allow to cool for a few minutes. Beat with a wooden spoon or handheld electric beater for about 10 minutes or until mixture is thick. Pour into a well-greased 28 × 19 cm (11 × 7½ in) lamington tin. Place walnut halves on top, mark into pieces with a knife and leave to cool. When set, break into squares. Makes about 60 pieces.

TABOULEH (TABBOULI, TABBOULEH)

One of the most popular dishes from the Middle East, and Lebanon in particular. Burghul (cracked wheat), on which the salad is based, gives a delicious nutty flavour that appeals to most people. Plenty of fresh mint and parsley is mixed through the burghul and lemon juice imparts a refreshing tang. Serve tabouleh with flat pita bread as part of an hors d’oeuvre tray or traditional mezze of the Middle East, or use as an accompaniment to grilled or barbecued lamb or chicken.

Burghul is available from most delicatessens, health food shops and good supermarkets. It is always soaked in cold water for about 2 hours before use, to soften and swell the grains.

TABOULEH

1 cup burghul
2 large tomatoes, peeled and chopped
3 tablespoons finely chopped spring onions
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1–1½ cups finely chopped fresh parsley

½ cup finely chopped fresh mint
3–4 tablespoons olive oil
3–4 tablespoons lemon juice
lettuce leaves to serve (optional)

Soak burghul in enough cold water to cover for about 2 hours. Drain, squeeze out as much water as you can (use your hands to do this) and spread onto a clean tea-towel or paper towel to dry. Put burghul in a bowl. Add tomatoes and spring onions to the burghul and season with salt and pepper. Add parsley, mint, oil and lemon juice and mix well. Adjust seasoning – the salad should taste fresh and lemony. Serve on lettuce leaves on a flat platter or piled in a bowl. Serves 6.

VARIATION

TABOULEH-STUFFED TOMATOES: Make Tabouleh, omitting the tomatoes. Remove tops from 6 tomatoes and scoop out the flesh, leaving the shell. Sprinkle tomatoes with salt, turn upside-down and leave to drain for about 30 minutes. Then dry with paper towels. Mix the chopped tomato flesh with the tabouleh and use this to fill the centres of tomatoes. Arrange on a platter with any leftover tabouleh spooned down centre.

TACO

A tortilla (Mexican corn pancake), folded or rolled around a filling and often fried crisp. It can be filled with a savoury filling before rolling and then fried, or fried first with fillings added afterwards. Crisp taco shells are available in packages and a complete ‘taco kit’ containing taco shells, sauce and seasonings, is also available at most health food shops and supermarkets. Tacos are eaten at all hours of the day in Mexico, and they have become a popular ‘fast food’ in other countries. They are good for a party because you can put out the fillings and sauce and let each guest assemble their own.

See also Tortilla.

TACOS

10–12 packaged taco shells or soft tortillas

Filling

1 tablespoon oil
1 clove garlic, crushed
1 medium onion, finely chopped
500 g (1 lb) lean minced beef
1 teaspoon Mexican chilli powder
1 teaspoon ground cumin
2 tablespoons tomato paste
½ cup water
salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander or parsley

Sauce

½ cup tomato purée
1 small onion, grated
1 teaspoon chopped fresh oregano, or ¼ teaspoon dried
1 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons vinegar
pinch sugar
1 small fresh or dried chilli, seeded and finely chopped

Toppings

1 cup grated, well-flavoured cheese
1 cup shredded lettuce
1 cup finely chopped onions
2 medium tomatoes, chopped
1 ripe avocado, peeled, stoned and diced (optional, but delicious)

Heat taco shells according to packet instructions, or fold soft tortillas in half and fry in a little hot oil until crisp.

To make filling, heat oil in a large saucepan and fry garlic and onion for about 4 minutes or until softened. Add minced beef, and stir over medium heat until it turns brown and crumbly. Add chilli powder, cumin, tomato paste, water, salt and pepper. Cook gently, covered, for 10 minutes. Stir in coriander or parsley and adjust seasoning.

To make sauce, combine all ingredients in a saucepan and simmer for 3 minutes.

Set taco shells on a platter, with filling, toppings and sauce in separate bowls. About 2 tablespoons of meat filling is placed in every taco, then toppings and sauce added according to taste. Tacos are eaten in the hand, so be sure to provide plenty of paper napkins! Serves 5–10.

NOTE: For vegetarian tacos, use Refried Beans as the filling instead of meat or create meatless fillings of your choice.

SALAD TACOS

1 cup cooked or canned red kidney beans, drained
1 leafy lettuce, torn into bite-size pieces
1 avocado, peeled, stoned and cubed
½ green pepper, cored, seeded and diced
2 tomatoes, chopped
1 teaspoon chopped fresh oregano
8 taco shells
½ cup grated Cheddar cheese

Marinade

½ teaspoon dry mustard
½ teaspoon ground cumin
2 tablespoons wine vinegar
¼ cup oil
¼ teaspoon salt

French dressing

1 tablespoon vinegar
3 tablespoons oil
1 clove garlic, crushed
pinch sugar

Beat marinade ingredients together with a fork. Chill kidney beans in marinade for 2–3 hours. Combine dressing ingredients. Add lettuce, avocado, green pepper, tomatoes and oregano. Drain beans, add to salad and toss lightly. Crisp taco shells as directed on packet. Spoon salad into tacos. Sprinkle cheese over top and serve immediately. Serves 4.

TAHINI (TAHINA)

A paste made from toasted sesame seeds, widely used in the Middle East, where it is made into delicious creamy sauces and salad dressings, is used to flavour cakes and biscuits and is an essential ingredient in the wonderful garlicky chick pea dip Hummus bi Tahini.

YOGURT AND TAHINI SALAD

1 small lettuce, torn into pieces
2 small carrots, very finely sliced
1 cucumber, thinly peeled and diced
2 sticks celery, sliced
3–4 spring onions, diagonally sliced into 2.5 cm (1 in) lengths
¼ cup roasted cashew nuts
2 tablespoons grated Cheddar or crumbled blue cheese
½ cup alfalfa sprouts

Dressing

1 cup plain yogurt
½ cup tahini
1 clove garlic, crushed
1 tablespoon lemon juice
salt
1 tablespoon chopped parsley

Put vegetables into a salad bowl and mix lightly. To make dressing, whisk together all ingredients except parsley; fold parsley in lightly. Spoon dressing over salad, sprinkle on cashews and cheese and top with alfalfa. Serves 4–6.

TAHINI SAUCE

2 cloves garlic
½ cup tahini
¼ –½ cup cold water
½ cup lemon juice
salt

Place garlic and tahini in blender or food processor and process to crush garlic. Add water and lemon juice alternately, a little at a time, until desired consistency is reached. Add salt to taste. If mixing by hand, crush garlic with salt in a mixing bowl, and gradually beat in tahini. Mix in water and lemon juice alternately until mixture is desired consistency. Makes about 1¼ cups.

TAMALE

A Mexican speciality: a hearty snack made by spreading cornmeal dough on a corn husk, covering it with a sweet or savoury filling, then rolling it up inside the husk and steaming it. The Mexican cornmeal, masa, is not readily available commercially in Australia, but canned tamales can be found in some good food stores.

TAMALE PIE

A savoury Mexican-style pie with a cornbread crust. Yellow cornmeal (polenta) is used in place of the Mexican cornmeal (masa).

750g (1½ lb) minced steak
1 large onion, chopped
1 green pepper, cored, seeded and chopped
1 × 425 g can tomatoes
1 × 310 g can sweetcorn kernels, drained
½ cup stoned black olives
1 tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon salt
2–3 teaspoons Mexican chilli powder, or 1 packet commercial chilli seasoning mix

Crust

1 cup yellow cornmeal
1 teaspoon salt
2½ cups cold water
½ cup grated Cheddar cheese

Brown minced beef in a dry frying pan, stirring and breaking down lumps with 2 forks, until crumbly. Add onion, green pepper, tomatoes with their juice (snipping into pieces with scissors as you add them), sweetcorn, olives and seasonings. Turn mixture into a pie or other ovenproof dish and spread evenly.

To make crust, mix cornmeal, salt and cold water in a heavy saucepan and cook, stirring, for about 15 minutes or until thick. Spread mixture over meat mixture. It may sink, but will rise during baking. Bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for about 40 minutes or until topping is firm. Sprinkle with grated cheese and bake for 5 minutes longer. Serves 6–8.

TAMARILLO (TREE TOMATO)

A glossy, plum-red fruit the size and shape of a large egg. There are also yellow and purplish varieties. Tamarillos, natives of South America, have juicy, slightly acid flesh.

Raw tamarillos may be used for fruit salads or on a fruit platter, or arranged in slices or wedges on a cheese board to accompany soft, creamy cheeses. The puréed flesh is used as an ingredient in sweet and savoury dishes, and the sliced fruit as a garnish.

Tamarillos may be poached in sugar syrup and served warm or cold with cream, ice cream or custard.

Basic preparation: Raw tamarillos need no preparation beyond washing. The skin and seeds can be eaten, but as the skin can be bitter, you may prefer to peel the fruit with a knife, or by covering with boiling water for 1 minute, then slipping the skins off with your fingers.

To prepare tamarillo purée: Skin the fruit, then rub flesh through a sieve.

CREAMY TAMARILLO SAUCE

Serve on ice cream or on poached fruit.

½ cup sugar
½ cup water
½ cup dry white wine
6 tamarillos, skinned and puréed (above)
1 teaspoon lemon juice
2 teaspoons brandy
½ cup cream

Heat sugar, water and wine together, stirring until sugar has dissolved. Bring to the boil and boil for 5 minutes. Add tamarillo purée and simmer until reduced and a little thickened. Stir in lemon juice and brandy. Cool and chill. At serving time, whip cream until it just holds its shape and fold into tamarillo mixture. Makes about 1½ cups.

TANDOORI CHICKEN

A great and famous dish of northern India, named after the tandoor (clay oven) in which the spiced chicken is baked. Tandoori chicken came into India from across the North West Frontier and beyond, from the Turks and the descendants of Genghis Khan – a fascinating example of the way in which food interlocks with history.

When cooked in the traditional way, the chicken is threaded on a spit and baked in the tandoor over hot coals, but it can be cooked on an electric rotisserie or on a rack set in a roasting tin, and finished on the barbecue if you wish.

TANDOORI CHICKEN

1 × 1.5 kg (3 lb) chicken

Yogurt masala

3–4 cloves garlic, chopped
2.5 cm (1 in) piece fresh ginger, chopped
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
pinch nutmeg
1½ teaspoons salt
¾ cup plain yogurt
1 tablespoon peanut oil
1 tablespoon tomato sauce
2 teaspoons lemon juice
2–3 drops red food colouring

Lemon spice sauce

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
¼ teaspoon ground cardamom
1 tablespoon peanut oil
2 teaspoons lemon juice
onion rings, radishes, red or green peppers, chillies and flat bread to serve

Remove chicken skin but leave chicken whole. Cut 2 slits about 1 cm (½ in) deep in thighs and breast.

To make yogurt masala, put all ingredients in a blender and purée, or grind garlic, ginger, cumin seeds, nutmeg and salt to a paste with a mortar and pestle or end of a rolling pin in a bowl, then mix in remaining ingredients. Spread masala over chicken, rubbing in well, and refrigerate, covered, overnight. Next day, bring chicken to room temperature, then place on a rotisserie over a pan, or on a rack in a shallow roasting tin. Pour over remaining masala. Bake in a preheated hot oven (200°C/400°F) for 15 minutes, then reduce heat to moderate (180°C/350°F) and bake for 1 hour more, basting frequently with pan juices.

To make lemon spice sauce, mix together ingredients. Remove chicken from the oven and cut into 6 pieces. Coat chicken pieces with any remaining masala and sprinkle with lemon spice sauce. Return to a hot oven (200°C/400°F) for 10–15 minutes, or grill under a preheated grill or over hot coals until dark reddish-brown and crisp. Serve chicken on a large heated platter, with onion rings, radishes, sliced green or red peppers and, for those who appreciate something hot, a few chillies. Pass a flat bread such as Chapatis. Serves 3–4.

TANGERINE

See Mandarin and Tangerine.

TAPENADE

Whether for a picnic, quick snack or a light lunch there is nothing nicer than a bowl of this delicious paste of olives, anchovies, capers and canned tuna. Tapenade is all the better for being made a few days ahead and stored airtight in the refrigerator.

TAPENADE

125 g (4 oz) black olives
6 anchovy fillets, drained and rinsed
3 tablespoons capers, drained
100 g (3½ oz) can tuna in oil, drained
juice 1 lemon
cup olive oil

Stone the olives and crush in a mortar or chop in a food processor. Add the anchovy fillets, capers, tuna and the juice of ½ lemon. Pound or process until the mixture has formed a fairly smooth paste. Still pounding or with the motor still running, add the oil in a slow, steady stream. Taste and add more lemon juice, if liked, to taste. Turn into a small serving bowl, and serve with halved hard-boiled eggs, some crusty bread and a few crisp vegetables.

TAPIOCA

A product extracted from the roots of the cassava plant; it forms into small balls during processing.

It is a starchy product, and thus sometimes used for thickening, but more commonly it is used in desserts, like sago. Tapioca pudding is made by substituting tapioca for sago in the recipe for Sago Pudding.

TAPIOCA ALMOND CREAM

250 g (8 oz) ground almonds
6 cups water
pinch salt
½ cup tapioca
2 eggs, separated
sugar
¼ cup cream, whipped

Pound ground almonds in a mortar, gradually adding enough water to produce a smooth, thick liquid. Turn into colander lined with a clean tea-towel. Wring and squeeze to extract almond milk. Repeat with remaining water. Alternatively, blend briefly in a blender, then squeeze out almond milk. Pour almond milk into saucepan, bring to the boil, add salt and sprinkle over tapioca. Cook over low heat, stirring or whisking constantly, until the tapioca is clear and the mixture has thickened. Beat in egg yolks off heat, and add sugar to taste. Beat egg whites until stiff, and fold into mixture with cream. Serve warm or cold. Serves 8.

TARAMASALATA

A splendid Greek dip made from tarama, the smoked, dried roe of the grey mullet. Tarama is available in cans. Serve taramasalata as an hors d’oeuvre with olives and crusty bread, pita bread or fresh vegetables such as pepper strips, celery sticks and radishes for dipping.

TARAMASALATA

4 thick slices day-old white bread, crusts removed
½ cup milk
125 g (4 oz) tarama
1 small onion, grated
1 clove garlic, crushed
¼ cup lemon juice
¾ cup olive oil
freshly ground white pepper

Soak bread in milk for 5 minutes, then squeeze dry, discarding milk. Mash bread until smooth with a mortar and pestle or with back of a wooden spoon in a bowl. Beat in tarama little by little, then onion, garlic and lemon juice. Mixture should be a smooth paste. Now add olive oil little by little, beating it in with a whisk or rotary beater and making sure that each addition is absorbed before adding more. Taramasalata should be thick and creamy; it will firm more on chilling. Taste and beat in a little more lemon juice if required. Chill well before serving. Makes about 1½ cups.

VARIATION

BLENDER TARAMASALATA: Taramasalata is beautifully simple to make in a blender or food processor. For this method, the onion and garlic need only be chopped. Place soaked and squeezed bread and all other ingredients except oil in container of blender or processor and process until smooth. Then, with motor running, add oil gradually through feed tube, making sure each addition is absorbed before adding more. Taste and add a little more lemon juice if required. Chill well before serving.

TARRAGON

A profusely growing summer herb. Its long, slender leaves are often used to decorate a cold dish, such as jellied chicken, but its role in the kitchen goes far beyond that of a mere garnish.

Tarragon is one of the four fresh herbs found in fines herbes (the others being chives, chervil and parsley).Tarragon lends its tang to Béarnaise Sauce, and does wonders for chicken in any form. It can be used in salads and salad dressings, either as the fresh herb or in the form of tarragon vinegar. Tarragon may be added to pâtés, especially chicken pâté, to soups and to seafood dishes, hot or cold.

Dried tarragon is more pungent than the fresh, and for many dishes it is advisable to add dried tarragon as well as fresh.

There are two variants of tarragon: French tarragon and Russian tarragon. The former has a more distinct aroma and flavour; the latter is more bland. It is advisable to buy only French dried tarragon, and this, together with fresh Russian tarragon, makes a quite satisfactory combination.

Tarragon Vinegar: Fill a sterilised glass or bottle with fresh tarragon leaves, add good-quality wine vinegar to cover and leave to infuse for 2 weeks. Strain and bottle, adding a sprig fresh tarragon to each bottle if desired. If fresh tarragon is unavailable, use 1–2 tablespoons dried tarragon to 2 cups wine vinegar.

TARRAGON BUTTER

Serve on grilled meats, fish and chicken.

125 g (4 oz) butter
1 tablespoon lemon juice
2–3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh tarragon, or mixture of fresh and dried tarragon
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Cream butter until soft, then gradually beat in lemon juice. Blend in tarragon, and season with salt and pepper. Form into a log. Chill and slice into rounds when firm. Makes enough for 8 pieces of meat, fish or chicken.

CHICKEN BREASTS WITH TARRAGON

6 chicken half-breasts or fillets, boned
60 g (2 oz) butter
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon dried tarragon
½ cup chicken stock
½ cup cream
1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon

Trim chicken if necessary. Cook in frying pan in foaming butter for 3–4 minutes each side. Season with salt and pepper and sprinkle with tarragon after turning. When both sides are browned, turn once more and cook for a further 2–3 minutes. Remove and keep warm. Deglaze the pan with stock, and boil to reduce by half. Stir in cream and chopped fresh tarragon. Reduce over heat if desired. Pour sauce over chicken and serve immediately. Serves 6.

TOURNEDOS WITH TARRAGON

6 fillet steaks, about 2.5 cm (1 in) thick
45 g (1½ oz) butter
salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons Madeira or port
1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon

Cook steaks in heavy frying pan in about 15 g (½ oz) butter for 2–3 minutes each side. Season cooked side with salt and pepper after turning. When little drops of red juice appear on surface of meat, pour over Madeira or port. Allow it to bubble for about 30 seconds, then stir in tarragon and remaining butter. Serve immediately. Serves 6.

NOTE: Cooked in this way, steaks will be rare. If medium steaks are desired, turn steaks a second time and cook for 2–3 minutes before adding Madeira.

TARTARE SAUCE

See Mayonnaise.

TARTS AND TARTLETS

The combinations of food, both sweet and savoury, that can be presented in an open pastry shell are almost endless. There is hardly an occasion, from afternoon tea or cocktails to a lunch or dinner party, a picnic or a relaxed family meal, when one or another of the great tart family would not be welcome.

The terms ‘tart’ and ‘flan’ are virtually interchangeable. The French lean towards the former, the English towards the latter, while Americans often call a filled pastry shell an open pie.

To shape tart shells: For directions on lining large or individual-size flan rings, see Pastry.

To line individual plain tartlet tins: For the tiny, saucer-shaped tartlet tins that are joined in a set of 12, roll pastry thinly and, using a round cutter, stamp out rounds a little larger than the top of the tins. If using pastry containing sugar or eggs, grease tins lightly. Fit the pastry rounds into tins, pressing lightly to ensure that no air remains between pastry and tin. Prick shells before baking.

To line individual fancy tartlet tins: Place the tins close together, about six in a group. If using pastry containing sugar or eggs, grease tins lightly. Roll the pastry thinly, lift on the rolling pin and lay it loosely over all the tins together. Shape a small piece of pastry into a ball, dip it in flour and use it to press pastry into the tins. Flour rolling pin and roll over tins, first one way, then the other, to remove surplus pastry. Fold trimmings together and roll out again to line more tins. Take each tin, press edges up lightly with the thumb and prick pastry bottom before baking until dried out and pale golden.

To bake unfilled tart shells: For directions on baking blind, see Pastry.

See also Flan; Quiche.

Savoury tarts

Savoury tarts can be created from store cupboard ingredients – eggs, milk, cheese, vegetables, even leftover meat and fish.

BASQUE TART

1 large onion, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, crushed
30 g (1 oz) butter
3 large tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped
1 small red pepper and 1 small green pepper, cored, seeded and cut into short strips
60 g (2 oz) cooked ham or prosciutto, cut into strips
1 teaspoon tomato paste
2 eggs, beaten
½ cup cream
1 cup fresh breadcrumbs
1 tablespoon grated Parmesan cheese
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 × 23 cm (9 in) Plain Shortcrust Pastry tart shell

Cook onion and garlic in butter until soft but not browned. Remove from heat and add tomatoes. Blanch peppers in boiling water for 5 minutes and drain. Add peppers, ham, tomato paste, eggs, cream, breadcrumbs, cheese, salt and pepper to tomato mixture and mix lightly. Turn into tart shell and bake in a preheated moderately hot oven (190°C/375°F) for about 40 minutes or until filling is set and pastry golden. Serves 4–6.

CHEESE SOUFFLÉ TART

This tart should be served while the filling is still puffed up. You can prepare the tart shell and the filling, up to the point of folding in the egg whites, ahead of time.

3 rashers streaky bacon, rind removed, finely chopped
1 onion, finely chopped
1 × 20–23 cm (8–9 in) Rich Shortcrust Pastry tart shell, partially baked blind
30 g (1 oz) butter
2 tablespoons flour
cup warm milk
salt and freshly ground black pepper
pinch dry mustard
60 g (2 oz) Gruyère cheese, grated
2 eggs, separated

Fry bacon gently in a dry frying pan until fat runs. Add onion and cook until golden-brown. Spread the onion and bacon on bottom of tart shell. Melt butter in a saucepan, add flour and stir on low heat for 1 minute. Remove from heat, cool a little and add milk, stirring until smoothly blended. Season with salt, pepper and mustard. Return to heat and stir until boiling, then remove from heat, stir in cheese and beat in egg yolks one at a time. Beat egg whites until they hold soft peaks, and fold into cheese mixture. Turn mixture into tart shell and bake in a preheated hot oven (200°C/400°F) for 20 minutes or until filling is puffed and golden. Serves 4–6.

VARIATION

CHEESE SOUFFLÉ TARTLETS: Follow recipe for Cheese Soufflé Tart, but use pastry to line 12 × 5 cm (2 in) shallow tartlet tins, and bake blind. Divide filling among tartlets and bake for 8–10 minutes.

TOMATO AND CHEESE TART

A good tart to take on a picnic or, baked in a 20 cm (8 in) shallow square tin and cut into squares, to serve with drinks.

3–4 firm, ripe tomatoes, cut into 1 cm (½ in) thick slices
375 g (12 oz) Gruyère cheese, finely sliced
1 × 23 cm (9 in) Plain Shortcrust Pastry tart shell, partially baked blind
2 spring onions, finely chopped
4–5 leaves fresh basil, cut into fine ribbons, or ½ teaspoon dried
salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese
30 g (1 oz) butter, melted

Sprinkle tomato slices with salt and place on a rack for about 30 minutes to drain. Arrange cheese slices, overlapping, in a layer in tart shell. Scatter chopped spring onions and basil over and place drained tomato slices on top to cover cheese completely. Season with salt and pepper, sprinkle with Parmesan cheese and drizzle melted butter over. Bake in a preheated moderately hot oven (190°C/375°F) for about 25 minutes or until lightly coloured. Serve warm. Serves 4–6 or makes 16 × 5 cm (2 in) squares.

SPANISH TARTS

Make in 10 cm (4 in) rings for a first course, or in tartlet tins for party savouries.

1 quantity Rich Shortcrust Pastry
1 kg (2 lb) spinach
salt and freshly ground black pepper
nutmeg
30 g (1 oz) butter
2 onions, finely chopped
2 tablespoons flour
1 cup warm milk
½ cup grated Swiss cheese
1 teaspoon lemon juice
½ teaspoon paprika
½ cup fresh breadcrumbs

Roll out pastry dough and use to line 4 × 10 cm (4 in) flan rings or 16–18 × 5 cm (2 in) tartlet tins. Prick well, chill for 30 minutes, then bake blind in a preheated hot oven (200°C/400°F) until golden. Cool in tins. Pack spinach into a saucepan and season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Cover tightly and cook, in water that clings to leaves after rinsing, for 5–6 minutes or until soft. Drain well and, when cool enough to handle, squeeze out as much moisture as possible. Chop spinach finely.

Melt butter in saucepan and cook onions gently until soft but not brown. Add flour and stir over low heat for 1 minute. Remove from the heat and cool slightly, then add milk, stirring until it is smoothly blended. Return to heat and stir until boiling. Season with salt, pepper and a little nutmeg. Fold in spinach. Remove from heat and stir in ¼ cup cheese and the lemon juice. Adjust seasoning. Fill tart shells with mixture. Mix remaining cheese, paprika and breadcrumbs and sprinkle over the tops. Place under a preheated grill or in a preheated hot oven (200°C/ 400°F), until tops are browned. Serve hot or warm. Makes 4 entrée tarts, 16–18 party savouries.

Fruit tarts

The French are masters at the art of producing a fine fruit tart. Attractively arranged fruit in a crisp pastry case, the most delectable tarts are made with fresh fruit, served warm from the oven.

GLAZED APPLE TART

A light French dessert tart, beautiful to look at and good to serve with coffee.

3 large dessert apples, such as golden delicious, peeled, halved and cored
1 × 23 cm (9 in) Sweet Rich Shortcrust Pastry tart shell, partially baked blind
30 g (1 oz) butter, melted
¼ cup sugar
¼ cup sieved apricot jam and 1 tablespoon water to glaze

Put each apple half, cut side down, on a board and cut across into very thin slices, keeping shape of half intact. Arrange halves in tart shell, fanning slices out somewhat. Brush with melted butter, sprinkle with sugar and bake in a preheated moderately hot oven (190°C/375°F) for 5 minutes. Brush again with butter and bake for 5 minutes more or until pastry is browned and apples tender. Cool for 10 minutes in the flan ring, then remove sides and place tart on a wire rack. Stir apricot jam and water over low heat until boiling and glaze hangs in heavy drops from spoon. Brush over apples. Serve tart lukewarm. Serves 6–8.

VARIATION

Halved, stoned fresh apricots or well-drained canned apricot halves may be substituted for apples.

FRENCH FRUIT TART (TARTE AUX FRUITS)

This tart has the tempting, glamorous look of the tarts seen in those superb French patisseries. The trick is to work in a tidy area, with nothing else on the go at the same time. The French fruit tart needs your undivided attention!

1 × 20 cm (8 in) Pâte Sucrée tart shell, baked blind
½ quantity Crème Pâtissière
few mixed fruits (strawberries, grapes, cherries, mandarin or orange segments, apricots or pears)
¼ cup sieved apricot jam
1 tablespoon water
squeeze lemon juice

Fill cooled tart shell with crème pâtissière. Have prepared fruit ready and arrange over cream in a decorative fashion, in concentric circles, in any order. The cream should be completely covered with fruit. Make glaze by heating apricot jam, water and lemon juice together, stirring, until mixture hangs in heavy drops from spoon. Brush over fruit while still warm. Put in refrigerator to set glaze until ready to serve. Serves 6.

NOTE: For the best result this tart should be put together 1–2 hours before serving. Have the tart shell baked, the crème pâtissière and the glaze at the ready (it will have to be reheated) and then settle down to create a beautiful work of art.

PLUM TART

Pastry

1 cup flour
60 g (2 oz) butter
1 tablespoon caster sugar
¼ cup ground almonds
½ egg, beaten
little grated lemon rind
2 teaspoons rum

Filling

½ cup ground almonds
½ cup sugar
1.5 kg (3 lb) ripe plums (president or angelina plums are best), slit open and stoned
3 tablespoons icing sugar
½ teaspoon cinnamon

To make pastry, work all pastry ingredients together. Roll into a ball, wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1 hour before using. When chilled, roll out on a floured work surface and use to line a 25 cm (10 in) flan tin with a removable base. Chill tart shell for 30 minutes.

To make filling, sprinkle tart shell with ground almonds and 1 tablespoon sugar. Arrange plums, cut side up, in circles, packing them tightly and reversing direction of fruit with each circle. Sprinkle with remaining sugar. Place on a baking tray and bake on the lowest rack in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/ 350°F) for 1 hour or until plums are soft. Cool for a few minutes, then remove the flan ring and allow to stand until just warm. Combine icing sugar and cinnamon and sift over plums before serving. Pass around a bowl of whipped cream if liked. Serves 8.

TART TATIN

This luscious dessert of caramelised apples on a pastry crust appears on the menu of nearly every French restaurant. Golden delicious apples must be used. To make this tart you need a heavy, round flameproof dish – a cast-iron frying pan with a screw-on handle is one idea, a small paella pan another – it is worth looking for a special pan for this famous dish. These are now available at specialty kitchen shops.

Pastry

1 cup flour
2 teaspoons caster sugar
90 g (3 oz) butter, cut into small dice
1 egg yolk
1 tablespoon cold water

Filling

125 g (4 oz) butter
1 cups sugar
10 large, ripe golden delicious apples, peeled, cored and cut into thin slices

To make pastry, sift flour and sugar into a bowl, make a well in the centre and place butter, egg yolk and water in well. Mix quickly with a fork to form a dough. To make this pastry with an electric beater, cream sugar with butter and incorporate egg and water. Mix for a few seconds, then add flour all at once. Do not beat any more when dough is formed. Roll in plastic wrap and chill for 1 hour.

To make filling, place butter and sugar in a 23 cm (9 in) round flameproof dish. Allow butter to melt on a gentle heat. Remove from heat and arrange apples, flat, in circles in the dish, packing them very tightly together. Return to heat and cook gently until butter and sugar form a pale caramel. This will take about 15 minutes. Do not allow caramel to become dark. While the apples are cooking carefully roll out pastry dough to a 28 cm (11 in) round. Remove dish from heat and cover apples with dough round, pushing edges inside dish. Place on a baking tray and bake in a preheated moderately hot oven (190°C/375°F) for 45 minutes, covering loosely with foil if browning too much. Stand for 10 minutes before inverting tart onto a heated dish. Serve tart warm, with lightly whipped cream if desired. Serves 8.

Fruit tartlets

These fruit-filled glazed tartlets may be made with any fruits in season.

1 quantity Pâte Sucrée
500 g (1 lb) fresh fruit in season (see Variations)

Glaze

1 cup sieved jam (use apricot for pale fruits and redcurrant for red fruits)
3 tablespoons water
1 tablespoon lemon juice

Roll out pastry dough thinly and use to line 6 individual 8 cm (3 in) tartlet tins. Chill. Prick bottom of each tartlet with a fork, chill for 20 minutes and then bake blind in a preheated moderately hot oven (190°C/375°F) for 8–10 minutes or until pastry is a pale biscuit colour. Do not allow to brown. Cool.

To prepare fruits for tarts, see Variations.

To make glaze, heat all ingredients over gentle heat, stirring until glaze hangs in heavy drops from spoon. Brush tartlet shells with hot glaze. Pile fruit into tartlet shells and brush fruit carefully with glaze until it glistens. Allow to set. Makes 6.

VARIATIONS

STRAWBERRIES: Wash, dry carefully and hull. They can be left whole if small, or sliced or halved.

APRICOTS, PEACHES AND PLUMS: Poach in a light syrup (½ cup sugar dissolved in 1 cup water) until just tender. Drain. Slit and remove stones. Small fruits may be used whole, larger fruits sliced or halved. Good-quality canned fruit may also be used.

GRAPES: Wash, halve if desired and seed if necessary (see Grapes).

PEARS: If using ripe pears, peel, slice finely and arrange in the tartlet shells. Brush with a little lemon juice to prevent discolouring. If the pears are not quite ripe, peel and poach in a light syrup until tender. Drain before slicing.

RHUBARB: Use young rhubarb; wash well and cut into 4 cm (1½ in) lengths. Poach in a light syrup until tender but still holding its shape and drain well.

MANDARINS: Peel, remove outside skins with a sharp knife and cut between membranes to separate skinless segments. Dry segments on paper towels before using.

CHERRIES: Wash, then remove stones with a cherry stoner, or halve cherries and lift stones out with a small sharp knife. Dry before placing in tartlet shells.

INDIVIDUAL PEAR TARTS

An example of the French way with fruit tarts. The fruit is arranged in a design that shows its lovely shape, over a layer of crème pâtissière.

1 quantity Biscuit Pastry
2 firm ripe pears, peeled, halved and cored
lemon juice
¼ cup sugar
½ cup water
1 strip lemon rind
½ quantity Crème Pâtissière

Roll out pastry dough and use to line 4 × 10 cm (4 in) loose-bottomed flan rings. Chill for 30 minutes, then bake blind in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for 8 minutes. Remove lining paper and rice or beans, return to oven and bake for 5–10 minutes more or until shells are golden. Remove from oven and cool. Brush each pear half with lemon juice as it is prepared, to prevent discolouration. Put sugar, water and lemon rind into a heavy saucepan and bring to the boil. Add pears, cover tightly and poach gently (just below a simmer) for 8–10 minutes or until pears are just tender. Remove saucepan from heat and cool pears in syrup for 20 minutes. Remove them and drain on a cloth. Spread a layer of crème pâtis-sière in each tart shell. Place each pear half cut-side down and cut lengthways into slices. Spread over crème pâtissière in a tart shell, fanning slices out. Boil down remaining poaching syrup until it is sticky, and brush over pears. Warm the tarts slightly in a cool oven (120°C/250°F) before serving. Serves 4.

HOT APPLE TARTS (TARTES FINES CHAUDES AUX POMMES)

The French way of making fruit tarts that look as beautiful as they taste is quite traditional. This is an up-to-date version from a top Paris restaurant.

1 × 375 g (12 oz) packet frozen puff pastry, thawed
4–6 eating apples, peeled and cored
½ cup caster sugar
125 g (4 oz) butter
little warmed honey
Crème Fraîche to serve

Roll out pastry dough thinly on a floured work surface. With a 15 cm (6 in) round cutter or saucer, cut out 6 rounds. Turn rounds over onto a dampened baking tray and chill for 30 minutes. Slice apples downwards very thinly. Arrange on the pastry rounds in overlapping rows. Sprinkle with sugar and dot with butter. Bake in a preheated hot oven (220°C/425°F) for 20–25 minutes or until the apples and pastry are golden. Brush tops with honey, and serve warm with chilled crème fraîche. Serves 6.

Other sweet tarts

To serve as dessert or at afternoon tea.

CREAM CHEESE TART

1 quantity Pâte Sucrée
125 g (4 oz) unsalted butter, softened
½ cup caster sugar
250 g (8 oz) cream cheese, softened
2 eggs, beaten
pinch nutmeg
icing sugar

Roll out pastry dough and use to line a 20 cm (8 in) flan ring. Chill for 20 minutes. Cream butter with sugar until light and fluffy. Add cream cheese, beating until it is light and fluffy. Beat in eggs little by little. Spread the mixture in tart shell and sprinkle with nutmeg. Bake in a preheated moderately hot oven (190°C/375°F) for 30 minutes or until filling is puffed and golden and pastry a pale gold. Protect sides with crumpled foil if pastry is browning too much. Sift icing sugar over surface and serve warm or cold. Serves 6.

BROWN SUGAR TART

double quantity Pâte Sucrée
2 cups firmly packed brown sugar
1 cup cream
30 g (1 oz) butter
¼ teaspoon vanilla essence
pinch salt
2 eggs, beaten

Use two-thirds of dough to line a 23 cm (9 in) flan ring. Place brown sugar and cream in a saucepan and bring to the boil, stirring. Simmer gently for about 15 minutes. Remove pan from heat and stir in butter, vanilla and salt. Let mixture cool to lukewarm. Add eggs and beat until well blended. Pour into tart shell. Roll out remaining one-third of dough, then cut into strips. Arrange strips lattice-fashion over tart, pressing lightly at ends to join them to sides. Bake in a preheated hot oven (200°C/400°F) for about 20–25 minutes or until pastry is cooked and filling is barely set. Cool on a wire rack. Serves 6–8.

NEENISH TARTS

Pastry

125 g (4 oz) butter
½ cup sugar
½ teaspoon almond essence
1 egg
2 cups flour, sifted
1 teaspoon baking powder
pinch salt

Filling

90 g (3 oz) butter
½ cup sifted icing sugar
3 tablespoons sweetened condensed milk
1 tablespoon lemon juice

Icing

1 cup icing sugar
drop vanilla essence
1 tablespoon cocoa powder
1 teaspoon butter

To make pastry, cream butter with sugar and almond essence until light and fluffy. Add egg and beat well. Stir in flour, baking powder and salt. Knead lightly, then form into a ball, wrap in plastic wrap and chill for 30 minutes. Roll out and cut into 24 × 6 cm (2½ in) rounds. Fit into greased patty tins, prick lightly and chill for 20 minutes. Bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for 10–15 minutes or until a pale biscuit colour. Cool on wire racks.

To make filling, beat butter until fluffy, then beat in icing sugar, condensed milk and lemon juice. Spoon into cooled tarts, smooth flat with palette knife and leave to set.

To make icing, sift icing sugar into a small heatproof bowl, add 1 tablespoon hot water and heat over gently simmering water. Stir in vanilla and when icing will coat back of a spoon use immediately to ice one-half of each tart. Add cocoa and butter to remaining white icing in bowl. Stand over simmering water and stir until butter melts and icing is smooth and glossy (you may have to beat in a little more hot water). Use at once to ice other halves. Makes 24.

JAM TARTS

½ quantity Biscuit Pastry
12 teaspoons jam (apricot, raspberry, strawberry, blackberry)

Roll out pastry dough thinly and use to line 12 shallow tartlet tins. Prick bases and put 1 teaspoon jam into each. Roll pastry trimmings and cut narrow strips to make pastry crosses on top of jam, if liked; press ends onto edges. Chill for 20 minutes, then bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for about 15 minutes. Makes 12.

LEMON CHEESE TARTS

½ quantity Biscuit Pastry
Lemon Cheese
whipped cream (optional)

Roll out pastry dough thinly and use to line 12 shallow tartlet tins. Prick bases and chill for 20 minutes, then bake blind in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for about 15 minutes or until pastry is golden. Remove from tins and cool on a wire rack. Fill each tart shell with lemon cheese and top with a dab whipped cream, if liked. Serve within 20 minutes. Makes 12.

TEACAKE

In England, traditional teacakes are large, round, baked buns of yeast dough, irresistible when served hot, split, toasted and buttered.

Other varieties of teacake are made from simple quick-mix batters, sometimes sprinkled with sugar and spices or other toppings, and often served sliced and buttered while still warm. Whichever variety you prefer, teacakes are a comforting treat at the close of a cold afternoon.

See also Yeast Cookery.;Cinnamon.

APPLE TEACAKE

1 egg, separated
½ cup caster sugar
½ cup milk
½ teaspoon vanilla essence
30 g (1 oz) butter, melted
1 cup self-raising flour, sifted
1 apple, peeled, cored and thinly sliced

Topping

melted butter
½ teaspoon cinnamon mixed with 1 tablespoon sugar

Whisk egg white until stiff and gradually beat in sugar, then egg yolk. Stir in milk, vanilla and melted butter. Fold flour carefully into mixture. Pour into a greased 18 cm (7 in) sandwich tin and arrange apple slices on top of batter. Bake in a preheated moderately hot oven (190°C/375°F) for 20–25 minutes. When cooked turn out onto a wire rack. While still hot, brush with melted butter and sprinkle with cinnamon and sugar. Serve warm or cold.

YORKSHIRE TEACAKES

15 g (½ oz) compressed yeast
1¼ cups warm milk
4 cups flour
1 teaspoon salt
45 g (1½ oz) lard or butter
1½ tablespoons caster sugar
¾ cup currants
2 tablespoons chopped mixed candied peel
milk to glaze

Dissolve yeast in warm milk and leave in a warm place for about 10 minutes or until the mixture becomes frothy. Sift flour and salt into a large bowl and rub in lard or butter. Stir in sugar, currants and peel. Add milk and yeast mixture and mix to a firm dough (you may need to add a little more flour). Turn dough onto a lightly floured work surface and knead for about 10 minutes or until smooth and elastic. Form into a ball, return to clean, very lightly oiled bowl and turn dough round to coat lightly with oil. Cover with a tea-towel and leave to rise in a warm place for about 1 hour or until dough has doubled in bulk.

Turn onto a lightly floured surface, knock dough down and knead until smooth. Divide into 6 pieces. Shape each into a ball and roll out to rounds 15–18 cm (6–7 in) in diameter. Then place the teacakes on 2–3 greased baking trays, brush tops with milk and cover with oiled plastic wrap. Allow to rise in a warm place for about 40 minutes or until almost doubled in size. Bake in a preheated hot oven (200°C/400°F) for about 20 minutes or until well risen and golden-brown. Cool on a wire rack. Serve warm or toasted, split open and spread with plenty of butter. Makes 6.

NOTE: If you would like the buns to have a sticky top, brush with clear honey or syrup as soon as you remove them from the oven. Dry yeast can be used; see Yeast Cookery.

HONEY TEACAKE

1¼ cups sour cream
¾ cup firmly packed brown sugar
1 egg
2¼ cups wholemeal flour, sifted
1 teaspoon bicarbonate of soda
3 tablespoons warmed honey
½ cup chopped mixed nuts

Topping

1 tablespoon caster sugar
¼ teaspoon nutmeg
2 teaspoons butter, softened

Beat together sour cream, sugar and egg, then stir in flour and bicarbonate of soda. Mix well. Beat in warmed honey and chopped nuts. Spoon mixture into a well-greased 20 cm (8 in) round cake tin and bake in a preheated slow oven (150°C/300°F) for about 1½ hours. Turn out onto a wire rack. Mix the topping ingredients and brush over top of loaf. Serve warm or cold, sliced, either buttered or plain.

TERIYAKI

The splendid Japanese dish of marinated, grilled and glazed beef or chicken. It can be cooked at the table on an Hibachi barbecue, on a griddle or in an electric frypan. Prepared teriyaki sauce, available bottled from Asian stores and many supermarkets, may be substituted for that given in the recipe.

BEEF TERIYAKI

6–8 slices fillet steak, each about 5 mm (¼ in) thick
oil

Sauce

1 clove garlic
½ teaspoon sugar
½ teaspoon grated fresh ginger
½ cup Japanese soy sauce
½ cup mirin (sweet sake) or dry sherry

Glaze

2 teaspoons sugar
3 tablespoons water
1 teaspoon cornflour mixed with 1 tablespoon cold water
1 tablespoon dry mustard and sprigs fresh coriander or parsley to garnish

Trim any fat and gristle from steaks. To make sauce, crush garlic with sugar, then mix with remaining ingredients. Dip both sides of each steak into sauce, then remove from sauce and set aside for 30 minutes.

To make glaze, put 3 tablespoons sauce into a small saucepan and add sugar and water. Bring to the boil. Stir cornflour mixture again, and stir into saucepan. Stir until mixture boils and becomes clear; set aside. Mix mustard with just enough hot water to make a thick paste; set aside.

Heat grill or griddle, brush with oil and cook steak at high heat for about 1 minute each side or until lightly browned. This will give medium-rare steak. For well-done meat, cook for 1 minute more. To serve, slice each steak into strips and assemble again into original shape. Heat glaze to boiling point and spoon over steaks. Garnish each plate with a dab of mustard and a sprig of coriander or parsley. Serves 6 as part of Japanese meal, 4 as a main course.

VARIATION

CHICKEN TERIYAKI: Follow recipe for Beef Teriyaki, but substitute 4–6 half-breasts of chicken, boned but with skin left on, for the fillet steaks. After marinating the meat, grill skin side up for 2–3 minutes or until a light golden-brown colour. Dip again into sauce and grill the other side for 2–3 minutes, then dip a third time into sauce and grill skin side up until a rich brown. Cut into strips and reassemble to serve. Glaze and garnish as for Beef Teriyaki.

TERRINE

See Pâté and Terrine.

THYME

Whether fresh or dried, the herb thyme is indispensable in the kitchen. It is one of the elements of the classic bouquet garni and a ‘must’ in many stocks and stews. It goes into wine marinades for meat and poultry, into hearty, one-dish soups, and is particularly good with rabbit.

There are many varieties of thyme, all of them perennial herbs. The wild thyme which grows in Mediterranean regions is one of these; in addition, there are lemon thyme and variegated thyme, plus other varieties used mainly as ornamental plants. The easiest way to have your own thyme is to get a rooted branch from a friend’s bush, which will quickly spread.

Branches of thyme may be dried, but since the herb is perennial it is often easier to use sprigs of fresh thyme. Dried thyme, however, is more convenient if the recipe calls for crumbled thyme – for example for a stuffing or to add to a meatball mixture.

SAUCE MARCHAND DE VIN

This sauce should be made in the same pan as the one used to cook steaks. Pour off excess fat before starting sauce.

2 tablespoons finely chopped onion
60 g (2 oz) butter
5 tablespoons red wine
1 clove garlic, crushed
1 sprig fresh thyme
½ teaspoon French mustard
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Cook onion in about 15 g (½ oz) butter in frying pan for about 2 minutes over high heat. Add wine, garlic and thyme, and boil to reduce to 3–4 tablespoons. Remove from heat. Whisk in remaining butter cut into small pieces, then add mustard, salt and pepper. Stir in any juices which have run out of the steaks. Remove thyme from sauce. Arrange steaks on heated plates, and strain sauce over them and serve immediately. Makes enough for 2 steaks.

PAPETON D’AUBERGINES (EGGPLANTS)

This was a dish created in the fifteenth century in Avignon by the French papal chef – thus the corruption of French and Italian words.

1.5 kg (3 lb) eggplants, peeled and finely sliced
salt
about ½ cup olive oil
freshly ground black pepper
2–3 sprigs fresh thyme
5 eggs
½ cup grated cheese

Place eggplant slices in large colander, sprinkle with salt and leave to dégorge (see Eggplant) for about 1 hour. Drain and pat dry with paper towels. Heat a little olive oil in a frying pan, and quickly brown eggplant slices, 3–4 at a time, on both sides. Add more oil to pan as needed. Purée eggplant through food mill or in blender. Season with salt and pepper and add thyme leaves. Add eggs one at a time, beating well. Pour mixture into greased 6-cup soufflé dish, and bake in a preheated hot oven (200°C/400°F) for 10–15 minutes or until a crust forms on top. Sprinkle with grated cheese, reduce the oven temperature to moderate (180°C/350°F) and cook for 25–30 minutes longer. Serve warm as an accompaniment to grilled or roast lamb or beef, or cold as an hors d’oeuvre. Serves 6–8.

TIMBALE

The name given to a deep round mould, usually small, made from metal, earthenware or ovenproof china, with either straight or sloping sides. It also applies to the dish prepared in the mould.

A timbale is made with a delicious creamy custard mixture of fish, poultry, meat or vegetables which is steamed, resulting in a texture resembling that of a soufflé. It is usually served with a sauce.

Sometimes the mould can be filled with potato, macaroni or rice and turned out as a garnish for fish, meat or poultry.

A timbale provides an elegant method for using leftover ingredients, and also makes a superb first course for a dinner party.

ZUCCHINI TIMBALE

A rather moist mixture reminiscent of the soft centre in a soufflé and an excellent first course or lunch dish.

1 kg (2 lb) zucchini, grated
salt
4 medium onions, minced
45 g (1½ oz) butter
1 tablespoon oil
1 cup grated mixed Parmesan and Gruyère cheeses
1 cup cream
8 large eggs, well beaten
freshly ground white pepper

Garnish

60 g (2 oz) butter
1 cup fresh white breadcrumbs
4 tablespoons chopped parsley

Sprinkle grated zucchini with salt and leave on a tilted plate for 30 minutes to drain. Dry well with paper towels. Cook onions gently in butter and oil until translucent. Increase heat to medium, stir in zucchini and cook for about 5 minutes, stirring frequently. Cover pan and cook over low heat for 2–3 minutes longer or until zucchini is tender. Remove from heat and cool. Add cheese to zucchini mixture and stir in cream. Mix in beaten eggs, salt and pepper. Carefully pour into a greased and bottom-lined 6-cup mould (or 6 individual 1-cup moulds). Set mould in a baking dish filled with enough hot water to come about two-thirds up sides of mould. Bake on middle shelf of a preheated moderate oven (180°C/ 350°F) for 35–40 minutes or until set. Test with a thin-bladed knife inserted in centre – it should come out clean and look slightly buttery when custard is ready. Remove from heat and from water bath. Rest timbale for 15 minutes before unmoulding.

To make garnish, melt butter in a small frying pan, stir in breadcrumbs and sauté until golden-brown. Remove from heat and stir in parsley. Run a knife around edge of mould and invert timbale onto serving plate. Sprinkle with parsley and breadcrumb garnish and serve immediately. Serves 6.

NOTE: If using individual moulds, bake for 20–25 minutes, depending on their depth.

VARIATIONS

BROCCOLI TIMBALE: Follow recipe for Zucchini Timbale, using 2½ –3 cups cooked, well-drained and puréed broccoli instead of zucchini. Serve with Hollandaise Sauce, if desired.

SPINACH TIMBALE: Follow recipe for Zucchini Timbale, using 2½ –3 cups cooked, well-drained and puréed spinach instead of zucchini. Serve with Hollandaise or Tomato Sauce.

TIMBALES OF SMOKED SALMON

A stunning way to present smoked salmon for a very special dinner. Crème fraîche makes a delicate filling.

125 g (4 oz) smoked salmon, thinly sliced
½ cup Crème Fraîche, chilled
2 tablespoons salmon roe
pinch cayenne, or dash Tabasco sauce

Fresh tomato purée

4 ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped
salt and freshly ground black pepper
snipped chives or fresh dill
whole chives or sprigs fresh dill to garnish

Rinse 4 individual soufflé dishes or other small moulds (about -cup size) and line bottoms with dampened greaseproof paper. Line dishes or moulds with smoked salmon slices, trimming them level with rims. Chop trimmings finely. Beat crème fraîche until soft peaks form, and fold in chopped salmon, roe and cayenne or Tabasco. Fill moulds with mixture. Cover and chill overnight.

To make tomato purée, mash tomato flesh with a fork or purée in a food processor fitted with the steel blade, then rub purée through a fine sieve. Season with salt and pepper and chill. Run a thin knife around inside of each mould. Invert a serving plate over each, hold plate and mould firmly together and turn them over. Rap plate sharply on table to release timbale, and lift mould off carefully. Spoon tomato purée in a cordon around each timbale and sprinkle with some snipped chives or dill. Garnish each plate with chives or dill. Serves 4.

FISH TIMBALES

2 cups boned and very finely chopped cooked fish
¼ teaspoon salt
pinch paprika
½ teaspoon grated lemon rind
2 teaspoons lemon juice
½ cup cream
3 egg whites
Sauce Tartare to serve

Combine fish, salt, paprika, lemon rind and lemon juice. Whip cream until it holds stiff peaks and fold into fish mixture. Whisk egg whites until stiff and fold in gently. Spoon into a greased and bottom-lined 4-cup mould (or 4 × 1-cup individual moulds). Set in a baking dish with hot water to come three-quarters of the way up sides of mould. Bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for 30–40 minutes, depending on depth of moulds. Test with a thin-bladed knife inserted in centre – it should come out clean when timbales are ready. Remove from heat and from water bath. Unmould onto serving plates and serve with sauce tartare. Serves 4.

CHICKEN TIMBALES

2 cups minced cooked chicken
¾ cup cream
¼ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon paprika
4 egg whites
1 small canned pimiento, drained and cut into strips
Velouté Sauce to serve

Combine minced chicken, cream, salt and paprika and blend well. Whisk egg whites until stiff peaks form and fold into chicken mixture. Line 6 greased 1-cup moulds with strips of pimiento and spoon in chicken mixture. Set in a baking dish with hot water to come three-quarters of the way up sides of the moulds. Bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/ 350°F) for 20–25 minutes or until set. Test with a thin-bladed knife inserted in centre – it should come out clean when the timbales are ready. Remove from heat and from water bath. Unmould and serve with velouté sauce. Serves 6.

VARIATION

HAM TIMBALES: Follow recipe for Chicken Timbales using 1 cup minced cooked chicken and 1 cup minced cooked ham instead of 2 cups chicken. Serve with Sauce Suprême.

TIPSY CAKE

A dessert resembling trifle, made from firm sponge cake either whole or in two layers. The cake is soaked in sweet white wine, sherry or brandy, then decorated with split, blanched almonds and whipped cream. It was once served surrounded with custard and when cut, the soaked cake slid and toppled sideways as though it was a bit ‘tipsy’ – a nice explanation for the name.

TIPSY CAKE

2 × 18 cm (7 in) Whisked Sponge or Sponge Sandwich layers
¾ cup sweet white wine, sherry or brandy
½ cup warm apricot jam
½ cup split, blanched almonds

Decoration

1 cup cream, whipped and sweetened with 1 tablespoon sifted icing sugar
¼ cup toasted flaked almonds

Prepare each sponge layer separately. Slowly spoon wine, sherry or brandy on cake to moisten evenly. Brush with warm jam and put layers together. Chill for 2–3 hours or overnight. Stud cake with almonds and decorate with whipped cream and toasted flaked almonds. Serves 8–10.

NOTE: Use a combination of wine, sherry or brandy if you wish.

TISANE

A herbal tea or infusion, sometimes sweetened with honey but rarely drunk with milk. Almost any herb can be used to make an infusion, together with the flowers of some plants.

Some tisanes have health-giving reputations. Camomile tea is an old remedy for upset stomachs (Mrs Rabbit gave it to Peter Rabbit after he had gorged himself in the vegetable garden). Peppermint tea is recommended as a prevention against colds. Angelica tea is said to help digestion. When caffeine is not allowed in the diet, herbal teas are often advised instead. Many have a soothing effect, such as linden flower (tilleul) tea.

A tisane may be made from either fresh or dried herbs or flowers. Little sachets of herbs or flowers for infusions may also be bought; these look like tea bags but must be left to infuse for much longer. Camomile, rose hip and linden flower are among the most common.

Rosemary Tea: Pour boiling water over a fresh sprig of rosemary in a cup. Cover, and leave to infuse for 5 minutes. For more than one person, use several sprigs rosemary in a teapot.

Peppermint Tea: Put a handful of fresh peppermint leaves in a china or earthenware teapot, pour over boiling water and leave to infuse for about 5 minutes. Sweeten to taste with a little honey and add a little squeeze of fresh lemon juice.

Dried peppermint leaves may be used in the same way. Cut branches of mint and spread out or hang in a dry, airy place until leaves are dried. Strip off leaves and store in an airtight container.

TOFFEE (TAFFY, TOFFY)

A very popular sweetmeat of ancient origin that was probably once made with black treacle that was flavoured with rum. Today the basic recipe contains sugar, water and sometimes butter. It is boiled at a high temperature (this varies according to type of toffee) to give the texture required after cooling.

Tips when making toffee:

• Always use a large heavy-based pan and oil the sides.
• Use a sugar thermometer for best results.
• Do not stir unless the recipe specifies this.
• Reduce the heat to a low simmer after the toffee has reached a temperature of 127°C/260°F.
• When the toffee reaches the required temperature, pour the mixture immediately into an oiled tin.
• Cool at an even room temperature, and when it is lukewarm, mark into squares with an oiled knife.

SIMPLE TOFFEE

2 cups sugar
¾ cup cold water
1 tablespoon vinegar

Place all ingredients in a heavy 8-cup saucepan. Stir over medium heat until sugar has dissolved. Bring to the boil, without stirring, and cook until syrup is golden-brown. Remove from heat and allow bubbles to settle. Pour into small paper cases (standing in metal pans), or pour into an oiled 18 cm (7 in) square shallow tin, cool for 5 minutes and mark into squares with an oiled knife. Makes about 50 × 2.5 cm (1 in) pieces.

TREACLE TOFFEE

2 cups raw sugar
½ cup water
90 g (3 oz) butter
pinch cream of tartar
cup treacle
cup golden syrup

Dissolve sugar in water in a heavy 8-cup saucepan over low heat. Add remaining ingredients and bring to the boil, without stirring. Boil to soft-crack stage, or 132°C/270°F if using a sugar thermometer. To test when soft-crack stage is reached, drop ½ teaspoon toffee syrup into 1 cup cold water. Work it with your fingers: hard separate threads that bend when removed from water should form.

Pour toffee into an oiled 18 cm (7 in) square shallow tin. Cool for 5 minutes, then mark into squares with an oiled knife and leave to set. When cold, break into squares and wrap in waxed paper. Makes about 50 × 2.5 cm (1 in) pieces.

TOFFEE APPLES

8 medium apples
2 cups sugar
cup water
2 teaspoons vinegar
pinch cream of tartar
red food colouring (optional)

Push a wooden butcher’s skewer into each apple. Place sugar, water, vinegar and cream of tartar in a deep, heavy saucepan. Stir over a gentle heat until the sugar has dissolved, then cover and bring to the boil. Remove lid and boil syrup rapidly, without stirring, for about 15 minutes or until temperature reaches 150°C/300°F, or hard-crack stage. To test when hard-crack stage is reached, drop ½ teaspoon toffee syrup in 1 cup cold water. Work it with your fingers for 1–2 seconds: if the toffee makes brittle threads that stay brittle out of the water, it is ready. Remove from heat and colour syrup with red food colouring, if liked. Twirl apples quickly in toffee mixture until well coated. Place on a greased baking tray to become hard. Makes 8.

VARIATION

TOFFEE SPRINKLES: Cook toffee as for Toffee Apples. Set paper cases in patty cake pans and three-quarters fill with toffee. Sprinkle with hundreds and thousands or desiccated coconut. Makes about 10.

TOFU (BEAN CURD)

Known as ‘tofu’ in Japan and ‘doufu’ in China and sometimes ‘the boneless meat of China’, bean curd is made from dried soy beans. High in protein, low in carbohydrates and cholesterol, bean curd generally has a bland nutty flavour, which is its strength. It is invaluable throughout Asia for absorbing the flavour of any dish to which it is added. It can be used in salads, stir-fries, soups and other healthy Asian dishes and is a great additionto a vegetarian diet.

To make bean curd, soy beans are soaked, skins removed then blended with water to make soy milk. Magnesium chloride is added to heated soy milk to separate the curds and whey. The curds are turned into many different forms: firm, soft silken puffs, sheets, fermented cakes and liquid. Pressed firm tofu is creamy in colour and comes in firm blocks; the softer silken firm tofu is fragile and also comes in blocks. It needs to be handled carefully. Puffed tofu has been cut into pieces and deep-fried; tempeh is fermented tofu with a nutty, smoky flavour made from cooked beans fermented with a mould until they form a chunky tasty bean cake. Bean curd also comes preserved in brine, sometimes flavoured with chilli or sesame oil.

AGEDASHI TOFU

600 g (20 oz) silken firm tofu
cornflour, potato flour or rice flour for dusting
oil for frying
1 sheet nori (dried seaweed)

Sauce

1 cup dashi broth (instant can be used)
2 tablespoons soy sauce
3 tablespoons mirin
1 teaspoon sugar
1 spring onion, finely sliced

Drain and rinse the tofu in water. Place on a rack over a plate, cover with paper towel and place a small weight on the top. Allow to drain for about 30 minutes to remove excess liquid. Cut the tofu into 5 × 1.5 cm (2 × ¾ in) cubes. To make sauce, gently heat together dashi broth, soy sauce, mirin and sugar, and simmer for a few minutes. Add spring onion and set aside.

Dust the cubes of tofu carefully with flour to coat evenly. In a wok or heavy frying pan, add enough oil to coat the tofu and heat until hot but not smoking. Add the tofu a few at a time and deep-fry, turning, until golden and crisp. Remove carefully with a slotted spoon and drain on crumpled paper towels. Arrange fried tofu on serving plates and pour a little dashi sauce over each. Alternatively, simply accompany the fried tofu with soy sauce for dipping. Serve immediately, garnished with nori cut into thin strips using scissors. Serves 4 as a starter.

SALT AND PEPPER DOUFU

Sichuan seasoning can be purchased at any good delicatessen or supermarket.

600 g (20 oz) silken firm tofu
1 cup peanut or vegetable oil
1 tablespoon Sichuan seasoning
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon sugar
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2.5 cm (1 in) piece fresh ginger, finely grated
½ –1 red bird’s-eye chilli, chopped
2 spring onions, sliced

Drain and rinse the tofu in water. Place the tofu on a rack on a plate, cover with clean paper towels and place a small weight on top. Drain for about 30 minutes to remove excess liquid. Cut the tofu into thick slices and cut again into triangles or squares. Heat a wok or heavy frying pan, add the oil and heat until hot but not smoking. Add the tofu, a few at a time, and deep-fry until lightly golden on both sides. Tofu is very fragile, so remove carefully with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels.

In a small bowl mix the Sichuan seasoning, salt and sugar together. Pour off most of the oil, leaving 1–2 tablespoons in the wok or frying pan. Reheat the oil and add the garlic, ginger and chilli and stir-fry very gently for 30 seconds. Return the tofu to the pan and continue to stir-fry very gently until it is heated through. Serve immediately. Garnish with the spring onions. Serves 4 as a starter or as a main meal with rice and a stir-fried vegetable.

TOMATO

Indispensable as the fresh tomato is for eating either raw or cooked, it is only the beginning of this great fruit’s usefulness to the cook. The tomato takes so well to being canned, puréed and concentrated that these forms are considered equal in status to the fresh product – indeed, they are sometimes the first choice for their rich colour and deep flavour, especially when fresh tomatoes are a little out of season and may lack flavour. Tomato juice, tomato sauce or ketchup, tomato relish or chutney find a place in most kitchens, and are used both to accompany food and as ingredients.

The tomato comes in a number of varieties from the large, ridged ones (which usually have especially good flavour), through smooth red globes to egg tomatoes, just right for lunch-boxes. There are also yellow varieties. Tiny cherry tomatoes (sometimes called ‘Tom Thumb’), now widely available, are brilliant for garnishing. They can be used in salads and, dipped first into gin then into coarse salt, make a sensational nibble to have with drinks. Tomatoes are often sold on the vine; these make an attractive display.

To buy: The very best fresh tomato is one that has been sun-ripened on the bush, but those available commercially have usually been picked at the stage where they are mature but still green or just beginning to redden. They are often fully ripe by the time they reach the shop; buy bright red ones for immediate use, paler ones if you want to use them in 1–2 days.

Tomatoes to be eaten raw or cooked whole or with a stuffing should be bright coloured but firm, with smooth, tight skins and no soft spots. Tomatoes which are a little beyond this stage and are very soft but still sound are usually cheaper and are excellent for cooking.

To store: Remove from any plastic wrapping and store ripe tomatoes in a cool, dark place; refrigerate (in a plastic bag in the crisper) only if you have more than you can use immediately, and remove half an hour before serving for fullest flavour. Store under-ripe tomatoes in good light but not in sunlight, and they will redden well in 1–2 days. You can speed the process by keeping them in a closed paper bag with a ripe apple. Tomatoes which have been picked before reaching maturity will not ripen and are best used for making pickles and chutney or, if they are not too hard, for frying:slice them thickly, dust with seasoned flour and fry slowly in bacon fat or butter.

Basic preparation:

To peel: Cover tomatoes with boiling water in a saucepan or bowl, count to 10, then remove and place them under cold running water. Make a tiny slit in the skin at the base and strip the skin off towards the stem end.

If the skin does not come away easily, drop tomatoes back into boiling water for a few seconds more, then place under cold running water again. After peeling, use the point of a knife to cut out the blossom at the stem end. Use peeled tomatoes in casseroles, sauces, salads and for garnish.

To seed: Cut tomatoes in half crossways; squeeze them in the palm of your hand, giving a little shake as you do so, over a sieve set over a bowl. Scrape out any remaining seeds with a teaspoon or grapefruit knife, and discard the seeds. Use the liquid in the bowl for the dish you are making, or add it to a stock or sauce.

To season: The correct basic seasoning for tomatoes is salt, pepper and just a touch of sugar to bring out the flavour. A little sugar added to dressings for tomato salads or to dishes using cooked tomatoes will give the fullest flavour.

BASIC TOMATO SAUCE

This is a good sauce to make in quantity and freeze – the recipe can easily be doubled. Use it as a base for a superb home-made soup; with spaghetti or other pasta; with meatballs; for cooking mussels or other seafood.

1 × 700 g (23 oz) can peeled tomatoes
3 tablespoons tomato paste
6 sprigs parsley
2 cloves garlic
1 medium onion, quartered
1 teaspoon sugar
1 tablespoon chopped basil leaves
¼ cup olive oil
1 bay leaf
1 teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

With the metal blade of a food processor or blender in place, add tomatoes, tomato paste, parsley, garlic, onion, sugar and basil. Process, turning on and off rapidly, until ingredients are all finely chopped. Pour into a large saucepan. Add olive oil, bay leaf, salt and pepper. Simmer for 30 minutes and remove the bay leaf. Taste for seasoning, adding more salt if needed. If a smoother sauce is desired, process the mixture until puréed, again using the food processor with the metal blade. Makes about 2 cups.

TOMATO MEATBALL SOUP

1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon sherry
1 spring onion, chopped
½ teaspoon grated fresh ginger
1 egg, beaten
2 tablespoons cornflour
250 g (8 oz) minced lean pork or beef
4 cups chicken stock
1 leek, thinly sliced
4 medium, ripe tomatoes, peeled and diced
1 teaspoon peanut oil
chopped fresh coriander or spring onions to garnish

Mix soy sauce, sherry, spring onion, ginger, egg and cornflour with minced meat and set aside. Place stock in large saucepan and add leek and tomatoes. Bring to the boil and simmer for a few minutes. Add oil, then drop teaspoons of the meat mixture into simmering soup. Cover and cook gently for 5–8 minutes. Serve sprinkled with fresh coriander or spring onions. Serves 4.

NOTE: When tomatoes are expensive, use 1 × 425 g can tomatoes. Chop the tomatoes and measure juice to replace some of the stock.

TOMATO SOUP WITH FRESH BASIL PASTE

Make the basil paste in the summer when the fresh herb is available, and keep it, covered with oil, in the refrigerator for the winter months.

1 teaspoon olive oil
1 medium carrot, sliced
1 small leek (white part only), sliced, or 8 spring onions, chopped
1 clove garlic, crushed
1 sprig fresh thyme, or small pinch dried
½ bay leaf
3 ripe tomatoes, chopped
1 tablespoon tomato paste
5 cups chicken stock
1 teaspoon salt
freshly ground black pepper

Basil paste

2 handfuls fresh basil leaves
2 teaspoons olive oil

Heat olive oil in a large heavy saucepan, add carrot, leek or spring onions and garlic and cook gently for 5 minutes. Stir in thyme, bay leaf, tomatoes and tomato paste, then the chicken stock. Heat until simmering. Season with salt and pepper, and simmer, half covered, for 20 minutes.

To make basil paste, put basil leaves and olive oil in a blender or food processor fitted with steel blade and blend to a paste.

Rub soup through a sieve and return to saucepan (or purée in a blender or food processor and strain back into pan). Reheat and serve, swirling a small dollop of basil paste into each serving. Serves 6.

CREAMY TOMATO SOUP (HOT OR COLD)

1 cup Basic Tomato Sauce
3 cups chicken stock
1 cup cream
salt and freshly ground black pepper
snipped chives, fresh basil or nutmeg to serve

Purée sauce in a blender until it is very smooth, or rub it through a sieve. Combine with stock and, if soup is to be served hot, bring cream to the boil and stir in tomato mixture gradually. Adjust seasoning. Serve scattered with chives or basil, or grate a little nutmeg over each serving. Serves 4.

SALAD OF ROASTED TOMATOES WITH SHALLOTS

This dish relies on flavoursome red tomatoes and delicious little golden shallots, both roasted, and good olive oil.

8 golden shallots, peeled and halved
about 8 tablespoons olive oil
2 teaspoons caster sugar
8 ripe red tomatoes, peeled
250 g (8 oz) green beans, tipped
1 cup shelled cooked broad beans
1 tablespoon balsamic or wine vinegar
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Arrange the shallots on a sheet of foil, sprinkle with 2 tablespoons olive oil and the caster sugar. Fold up the sides of the foil and seal the edges to make an airtight parcel. Bake in a preheated hot oven (200°C/ 400°F) for 30 minutes. Meanwhile, halve the peeled tomatoes, drizzle with olive oil and roast in the oven for 30 minutes. Remove and set tomatoes and shallots aside.

Drop the beans into boiling salted water and cook for about 4 minutes until crisp-tender. Drain and refresh under cold water. If time allows, remove the white skin from each broad bean to reveal the bright green bean underneath and set aside.

Add the vinegar to a small bowl with salt and pepper and gradually whisk in 4 tablespoons olive oil until a thickened dressing is formed. Whisk in the juice from the tomatoes. Arrange the beans on a salad platter and top with the roasted tomatoes and shallots. Scatter with the broad beans and spoon around the dressing. Serves 4–6.

PAN-FRIED CHERRY TOMATOES

Now that many back gardens are growing a few plants of these prolific tomatoes and the greengrocer has them in punnets, use them as a vegetable with all kinds of foods.

24–30 cherry tomatoes, depending on size
2 tablespoons light olive oil
1 clove garlic, chopped
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
6 fresh basil leaves, torn
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Wash and stem the tomatoes. Heat the oil in a frying pan, add the tomatoes, garlic and parsley and, over a moderate heat, cook the mixture for 2–3 minutes or until tomatoes are heated through. Take care not to allow the skins to split. Just before serving, toss in the basil and season with salt and pepper. Serves 4–6.

BUTTERED TOMATOES WITH BASIL

6 small tomatoes, peeled and cored
30 g (1 oz) butter, melted
salt and freshly ground black pepper
fresh basil, cut into fine ribbons, or chopped parsley

Arrange tomatoes in a buttered baking dish, blossom ends down. Brush with melted butter, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Bake in a preheated moderately hot oven (190°C/375°F) for 10–15 minutes or until slightly softened and heated through. Brush with melted butter and sprinkle lightly with salt every 5 minutes while cooking. Serve at once, sprinkled with basil or parsley. Serves 6.

TOMATES À LA PROVENÇALE (TOMATOES PROVENÇAL-STYLE)

Tomatoes and garlic are the basis for most dishes from Provence – in fact, tomatoes are referred to as ‘pommes d’amour’ there. If you’re a garlic lover, once you eat tomatoes cooked in this way, you won’t eat them simply grilled again. Tomates à la provençale is often served in France as a first course, with plenty of light, crusty French bread to mop up the garlicky oil.

6 large ripe tomatoes, halved
salt and freshly ground black pepper
olive oil
3 cloves garlic (more if desired), finely chopped
finely chopped parsley

Squeeze tomato halves gently to remove seeds and juice. Season lightly with salt and pepper. Heat oil in a heavy frying pan to a depth of about 1 cm (½ in).Add tomatoes, cut sides up, with garlic. Cover and cook gently for about 20 minutes or until tender. Remove to a heated serving dish, pour over cooking oil and sprinkle with chopped parsley. Serve hot with crusty bread, as an accompaniment to grills or as a separate vegetable dish. Serves 6.

ANCHOVY-STUFFED TOMATOES

6–8 even-size tomatoes
30 g (1 oz) butter
2 spring onions, chopped
3 tablespoons fresh white breadcrumbs
6 anchovy fillets
grated cheese
butter

Slice stem ends off tomatoes. Carefully scoop out seeds and discard. Remove and chop some of the pulp. Melt butter in a frying pan and gently fry spring onions until soft. Remove with a slotted spoon, and fry breadcrumbs until golden. Mash anchovy fillets and mix with spring onions, tomato pulp and fried breadcrumbs. Fill tomatoes with mixture and sprinkle with grated cheese. Bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for 10–15 minutes. Dot with butter before serving. Serves 6–8.

TOMATES GARNIES

This special way with tomatoes is often used as a garnish for dishes such as roast chicken, rack of lamb or roast fillet of beef.

6 medium, firm, ripe tomatoes
salt
sugar
60 g (2 oz) butter
1½ cups hot cooked peas

Cut tops off tomatoes and carefully scoop out seeds. Sprinkle insides with salt and a touch of sugar, then turn upside-down to drain for 30 minutes. Pat insides dry with paper towels. Put ½ teaspoon butter into each tomato and arrange in a buttered baking dish. Melt remaining butter, reserve 1 tablespoon and mix rest with peas. Fill tomatoes with peas and brush skins with reserved butter. Bake in a preheated moderately hot oven (190°C/375°F) for 10 minutes, brushing skins again with butter after 5 minutes. Serves 6.

TOMATOES AU GRATIN

4 ripe tomatoes, thickly sliced
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 cup fresh breadcrumbs
¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese
4 tablespoons oil

Arrange tomato slices, overlapping, in a lightly oiled flameproof dish. Season generously with salt and pepper, sprinkle with breadcrumbs, then cheese, and finally oil. Cook under a preheated medium grill for 5–6 minutes or until tomatoes are tender and surface is lightly browned. Serve from dish. Serves 4.

VARIATION

TOMATOES AND EGGPLANT AU GRATIN: Follow recipe for Tomatoes au Gratin, but before grilling, interleave overlapping slices of tomatoes in the dish with 8 slices eggplant which have been dusted with flour and very quickly browned in oil over a fairly high heat.

TOMATOES BAKED WITH HERBS

A most versatile yet simple dish, adding a touch of colour and robust flavour to roast chicken or a mixed grill. The amount of garlic used depends on personal liking for this pungent little bulb.

6 ripe tomatoes
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1–2 cloves garlic, chopped
2 tablespoons chopped fresh herbs (basil, parsley, thyme)
¾ cup fresh breadcrumbs (optional)
30 g (1 oz) butter

Cut tops off tomatoes and season generously with salt and pepper. Sprinkle each with garlic and herbs and top with breadcrumbs (if using). Put a generous dot of butter on top of each tomato. Arrange in a buttered gratin dish and bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for 10 minutes. Serve from dish. Serves 4–6.

TOMATO AND ONION SAVOURY

An excellent old-fashioned accompaniment to bake in the oven with a roast. It is good with barbecued chops or sausages, too. Tomatoes which are a little too soft for salad are right for this dish.

4 ripe tomatoes, peeled and sliced
2 onions, finely sliced
1½ cups fresh breadcrumbs
30 g (1 oz) butter, melted
sugar
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Arrange tomatoes, onions and breadcrumbs mixed with butter in layers in a shallow ovenproof dish, seasoning tomato layers with a little sugar, salt and pepper, and finishing with a layer of crumbs. Bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for 45 minutes or until vegetables are soft and top browned. Serves 6.

VARIATION

HERBED TOMATO SAVOURY: Follow recipe for Tomato and Onion Savoury, but sprinkle tomato layers with 2 teaspoons chopped fresh mixed herbs, or ½ teaspoon dried herbs mixed with 2 teaspoons chopped parsley.

SLICED TOMATOES WITH BASIL

One of the simplest and best ways to feast on tomatoes in summer when they, and basil, are in season.

4 ripe tomatoes, thickly sliced
2 teaspoons wine vinegar
½ teaspoon Dijon mustard
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
pinch sugar
1½ tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons fresh basil leaves, cut into fine ribbons

Place tomato slices in a shallow dish. Mix vinegar with mustard, salt, pepper and sugar in a small bowl, and beat in oil little by little to make a thick dressing. Spoon over tomatoes and scatter with basil. Serves 4.

LUNCHEON TOMATOES

Tomatoes filled with a delicious salad can be a main dish or an accompaniment to cold meats.

6 ripe tomatoes
½ cup plain yogurt
¼ cup Mayonnaise
1 small cucumber, diced
2 spring onions, finely chopped (including some green tops)
1 stick celery, diced
½ green or red pepper, cored, seeded and diced
3 hard-boiled eggs, chopped
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Have ingredients chilled. Cut a slice from the top of each tomato and carefully scoop out most of the pulp and seeds, leaving a shell about 1 cm (½ in) thick. Salt shells lightly inside and turn upside-down to drain. (Reserve scooped-out pulp and seeds for a stew, soup, casserole, etc.) Mix yogurt and mayonnaise, and fold in cucumber, spring onions, celery, pepper and eggs. Season with salt and pepper. Spoon mixture into tomato shells, mounding it up. Serves 6.

VARIATIONS

Instead of hard-boiled eggs, use 1 cup chopped cooked ham or corned beef, or 1 small can tuna fish or salmon, drained and flaked.

TOMATO RELISH

Home-made tomato relish is lovely with cold meats, grilled chops or cheese, or on sandwiches.

1.5 kg (3 lb) very ripe tomatoes, peeled and chopped
500 g (1 lb) onions, chopped
2 cups sugar
2½ cups malt vinegar
1 tablespoon flour
1 tablespoon curry powder
pinch cayenne
1 tablespoon dry mustard
1 tablespoon salt

Drain off ¾ cup juice from tomatoes and reserve. Put tomatoes, onions, sugar and vinegar into a saucepan and simmer, uncovered, until mixture is thick. Blend remaining ingredients with reserved tomato juice and stir in. Stir until boiling, then simmer for 5 minutes. Bottle in sterilised, warm jars and seal when cool. Makes about 8 × 250 g (8 oz) jars.

NOTE: For sterilising jars see Jams.

TOMATO KETCHUP

4 kg (8 lb) ripe tomatoes, chopped
2 cloves garlic, chopped
500 g (1 lb) onions, chopped
2½ cups firmly packed brown sugar
8 whole cloves
2 tablespoons rock salt
pinch cayenne
1 teaspoon cinnamon
½ teaspoon ground ginger
3½ cups vinegar

Put all ingredients in a heavy saucepan. Bring to the boil slowly, then simmer until tomatoes and onions are very soft. Stir from time to time with a wooden spoon to prevent burning. Strain mixture through a nylon sieve, bottle in sterilised, warm bottles and cork. This sauce keeps well for a long time. Makes about 6 × 300 ml (½ pint) bottles.

NOTE: For sterilising jars see Jams.

FRESH TOMATO JUICE

Nothing matches the flavour of home-made juice. When tomatoes are cheap, double or triple the quantity and keep covered in the refrigerator.

12 medium, ripe tomatoes, chopped
½ cup water
1 medium onion, sliced
2 sticks celery (with leaves), sliced
1 bay leaf
3 sprigs parsley

Seasoning

1–2 teaspoons salt
freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
1 teaspoon sugar

Place tomatoes in a saucepan with water, onion, celery, bay leaf and parsley. Simmer for 15 minutes. Strain and add seasoning ingredients to taste. Chill well before serving. Serves 4–6.

TOMATO SALSA

A tangy, hot salsa for dipping corn chips into, or for dressing up hamburgers or grilled meats, even fish.

2 medium onions, chopped
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
8 large tomatoes, peeled and roughly chopped
2 canned serrano chillies or 2 fresh green chillies, finely chopped
2 teaspoons sugar
salt to taste
6 tablespoons light olive oil
½ cup tomato paste
¼ cup chopped fresh coriander

Using a food processor and working in several batches, lightly purée together the onions, garlic, tomatoes and chillies. The purée should still have a chunky texture. Season with sugar and salt. Heat the oil in a heavy medium pan and add the tomato mixture and tomato paste. Bring slowly to the boil and cook, stirring frequently over a moderate heat, until thick and well blended. This should take about 10 minutes. Stir in the coriander and cook for a further minute. Cool slightly; pour into small sterilised jars and seal. Best kept in the refrigerator. Makes about 4 × 250 g (8 oz) jars.

NOTE: For sterilising jars see Jams.

FRESH TOMATO BRUSCHETTA

4–6 ripe red tomatoes
1 red salad onion, chopped
4 tablespoons virgin olive oil
sea salt
1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar
1 tablespoon chopped parsley or basil
4–6 slices of a small baguette, cut lengthways

Dice the tomatoes finely. Combine with the onion, adding 2 tablespoons olive oil, sea salt and balsamic vinegar. Stir in the parsley or basil. Then drizzle the remaining olive oil lightly on both sides of each bread slice. Heat the grill and toast the bread on both sides. Arrange the bread slices on a platter and spoon the tomato and onion mixture over each. Serves 4.

VARIATIONS

PISSALADIÈRE: Prepare as above, spooning the tomato mixture on toasted bread. Arrange 2 anchovy fillets, crisscrossed on each bruschetta, and scatter with a few halved black olives. Drizzle with extra olive oil and heat through under a preheated grill for about 2 minutes.

PARMIGIANA: Prepare bruschetta, spooning the tomato mixture on toasted bread. Top each with 2 thin slices of mozzarella cheese and a shaving of Parmesan cheese. Drizzle with olive oil and heat through to melt the cheese under a preheated grill.

STUFFED TOMATOES ITALIAN-STYLE

6 large tomatoes
1½ cups cooked long-grain rice ( cup uncooked)
2 tablespoons each chopped fresh basil and parsley
¼ cup olive oil
4 canned anchovy fillets, drained and chopped
2 cloves garlic, crushed
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Slice caps off tomatoes and set aside. Use a teaspoon to scoop out some of the flesh, leaving a thick shell. Roughly chop the scooped-out tomato and mix with the remaining ingredients, seasoning with salt and pepper. Stand tomatoes in an oiled shallow ovenproof dish just large enough to hold them in one layer and fill with the rice mixture. Top with caps. Bake in a moderately hot oven (190°C/360°F) for 15 minutes, basting with cooking juices every now and then.

Serve hot or at room temperature with crusty bread and a salad. Serves 4–6.

TOMATO BOCCONCINI SALAD

8 perfect vine-ripened tomatoes
8 baby fresh mozzarella cheeses (bocconcini)
sea salt crystals
small fresh basil leaves
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
balsamic vinegar
freshly ground black pepper

Wash tomatoes and cut into even slices. Cut each bocconcini through into 4–6 slices. Arrange tomato slices overlapping on a serving plate, alternating with the bocconcini slices. Season with sea salt and scatter with basil leaves, tearing them if they are large. Drizzle over the olive oil, and sprinkle with a little balsamic vinegar. Lastly, season with pepper. Serve with crusty bread. Serves 6.

TONGUE

Smooth, richly flavoured tongue, sold fresh, salted or smoked, is one of the best of cold meats and is excellent served hot with a piquant sauce. Cooked, sliced tongue can be crumbed and fried or it can be used in hearty savoury dishes. Canned tongues (usually lamb) are a useful store-cupboard item, and are especially popular with the elderly because they are easy to eat and can be bought in small cans.

Ox, calf and lamb tongues are available; pig tongue is usually available with the head. Whatever the variety, smaller tongues are usually better than larger; for prime texture, an ox tongue should be under 1.5 kg (3 lb). Fresh or salted tongues should be soft to the touch; smoked tongue should be firm but not hard.

Basic preparation: If salted or smoked tongue has been heavily salted (ask the butcher), it must be blanched before cooking. Cover with cold water, bring very slowly to the boil and drain.

To cook: Place tongue (fresh, salted or smoked) in a saucepan and cover with cold water. For 1 ox tongue or 6–8 lamb tongues, add 6 whole allspice, 6 whole cloves, 6 black peppercorns, 1 bouquet garni, 1 sliced onion, 1 sliced carrot and 1 sliced stalk celery. Add 1½ teaspoon salt if cooking fresh tongue. Bring slowly to the boil, skim the surface and simmer, covered, for about 3 hours for ox tongue and 1–1½ hours for lamb tongues.

The boiled tongue is cooked when one of the small bones near the root end can be easily pulled out. Cool in liquid until cool enough to handle, then take tongue out, remove remaining bones and trim off root. Slit underside of skin and remove. Skin should come off easily if you push thumbs underneath it to ease edges, then peel off. Tongue is then finished as the recipe directs.

To carve: Cut ox or calf tongue into slices straight across starting from the thickest part. Towards the thin end, change direction to carve diagonal slices. Carve lamb tongues in long diagonal slices. Carve pressed tongue in thin slices across the top.

BRAISED TONGUE WITH SOUR CREAM

1 onion, chopped
1 carrot, chopped
1 stalk celery, chopped
1 fresh ox tongue, cooked
125g (4 oz) butter, melted
½ –1 cup cooking liquid from tongue
1 cup sour cream
salt and freshly ground black pepper

To braise tongue, place vegetables in a large roasting pan. Place tongue on top and pour over melted butter. Cook uncovered in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for 45–60 minutes or until tongue is nicely browned. Baste every 10 minutes with pan juices, adding a little of the liquid in which tongue was cooked if juices are drying out.

Remove tongue to a heated platter. Rub contents of roasting pan through a sieve and return to pan. Boil down, stirring if necessary, until thick. Stir in sour cream and heat to just under boiling point. Season with salt and pepper and serve over tongue. Serves 6.

PRESSED TONGUE

1 fresh, salted or smoked ox tongue, freshly cooked
sauce of your choice (see recipe) to serve

After trimming and skinning tongue, curl it while still warm into an 18 cm (7 in) soufflé dish or cake tin. Place on top a plate which will just fit inside the dish or tin, then put a heavy weight, at least 3 kg (7 lb), on the plate. Chill overnight.

Run a knife round the edge and unmould tongue onto a serving plate. Serve tongue in thin slices with Cumberland Sauce, Sauce Rémoulade or one of the following sauces. Serves 6–8.

NOTE: 6–8 lamb tongues can be substituted for the ox tongue.

APPLE AND HORSERADISH SAUCE

3 cooking apples, peeled, cored and sliced
2 tablespoons water
2 tablespoons sugar
1 strip lemon rind
2 tablespoons grated horseradish

Put apples into a heavy saucepan with water, sugar and lemon rind. Cover and cook gently to a pulp. Cool, remove lemon rind and mash apples. Stir in horseradish. Makes about 1½ cups.

SPICED MUSTARD SAUCE

2 tablespoons brown sugar
3 tablespoons cider vinegar or white wine vinegar
4 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon English mustard
½ teaspoon salt
freshly ground black pepper
pinch ground cloves

Mix ingredients together well, beating vigorously with a fork or whisk. Makes about cup.

CRUMBED TONGUE

8–10 × 1 cm (½ in) thick slices cooked tongue
seasoned flour
2 eggs, beaten
2 tablespoons cold water
1 cup fresh breadcrumbs
2 tablespoons oil
60 g (2 oz) butter
Sauce Rémoulade to serve

Turn slices of tongue in seasoned flour and pat off excess. Mix egg and water and coat slices with this mixture, then with breadcrumbs. Chill for 20 minutes. Fry in oil and butter, turning once, until golden-brown. Drain on crumpled paper towels and serve with rémoulade sauce. Serves 4.

OX TONGUE AU GRATIN

1 fresh or salted, cooked ox tongue
3 onions, sliced
90 g (3 oz) butter
1 tablespoon flour
½ cup dry white wine
½ cup beef stock
8–10 mushrooms, sliced
1 cup fresh breadcrumbs

Cut tongue into 1 cm (½ in) thick slices and arrange the slices in a shallow ovenproof dish. Cook onions gently in half the butter until soft. Sprinkle in flour, blend thoroughly and stir in wine and stock. Simmer until thickened and spread over tongue. Heat remaining butter, add mushrooms and breadcrumbs and toss until coated with butter. Top dish with mixture and place in a preheated hot oven (200°C/400°F) for 15–25 minutes, or under a preheated grill, until top is crisp and golden. Serves 6.

TORTE

The German word for an open tart of rich cake, containing such ingredients as ground nuts, spices, fruit, chocolate and cream. Some tortes are a cake-like mixture, baked in a pastry case;some have many layers interspersed with butter cream;others are split and filled with sweet cream and fresh fruits.

Many tortes are made with little or no flour, ground nuts taking its place and whisked eggs providing aeration and structure.

See also Sacher Torte; Linzer Torte; Black Forest Cherry Torte.

HAZELNUT TORTE

6 eggs, separated
1 whole egg
¾ cup caster sugar
1 cup ground hazelnuts
¾ cup fresh white breadcrumbs
1 teaspoon flour

Filling

1½ cups cream
1 teaspoon caster sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla essence
½ cup ground hazelnuts

Beat egg yolks and whole egg together until thick and pale yellow. Gradually beat in ½ cup sugar, then nuts and breadcrumbs. Continue to beat until mixture forms a dense, moist mass. Whisk egg whites in another bowl until they begin to foam, then gradually add remaining sugar. Continue to whisk until whites form stiff glossy peaks. Mix about half the egg whites into hazelnut mixture, sprinkle flour over and fold in remaining egg whites. Pour into a buttered and floured 25 cm (10 in) spring-form tin. Bake in a preheated slow oven (150°C/ 300°F) for 35–45 minutes or until cake shrinks away slightly from sides of tin. Remove from oven, release spring on tin and remove sides. Allow cake to cool.

To make filling, whip cream and add sugar and vanilla. Slice cake into 2 layers and sandwich back together with one-third of the cream. Using a spatula, cover top and sides of cake with remaining cream, and scatter ground hazelnuts over top and sides. Serves 10.

GRIESTORTE

3 eggs, separated
½ cup caster sugar
grated rind and juice ½ lemon
cup fine ground semolina
2 tablespoons ground almonds
cup cream, whipped
1 punnet (250 g/8 oz) raspberries or strawberries, sprinkled with 1 tablespoon caster sugar

Beat egg yolks with sugar over a pan of hot water until thick and mousse-like. Remove from heat, add lemon rind and juice and continue beating until very thick and pale. Stir in semolina and ground almonds. Whisk egg whites until stiff peaks form, then fold into mixture. Turn at once into a greased and bottom-lined 20 cm (8 in) cake tin that has been dusted with caster sugar and flour. Bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for 30–40 minutes or until cake shrinks a little from sides of tin. Cool on a wire rack. When cold, split the cake into 2 layers and fill with whipped cream. Cover top of cake with raspberries or strawberries. Serves 8.

VARIATION

GRIESTORTE WITH FRESH PEACHES OR PEARS: Peel, stone or core and slice 2 fresh peaches or pears, dip in water acidulated with lemon juice to prevent browning, remove, dry well and put in between cake layers with whipped cream. Dust top of cake with sifted icing sugar.

MOCHA TORTE

2–3 packets Savoy or sponge fingers (about 18)
4 cups cream
3 tablespoons drinking chocolate powder
1 teaspoon instant coffee powder
1 cup sweet sherry

Decoration

1 cup cream (optional)
100 g (3½ oz) bar milk chocolate or chocolate buttons

Cut each sponge finger in half diagonally to give 2 pointed wedges from each biscuit. Whip cream with drinking chocolate and instant coffee until it just begins to hold its shape. Pour sherry into a shallow dish. Dip sponge finger halves, one at a time, in sherry, quickly to prevent them becoming soggy, and arrange one layer, cartwheel fashion, on bottom of greased and bottom-lined 28 cm (11 in) spring-form tin. Top with one-third of the whipped cream. Repeat with another layer of sherried sponge fingers, then cream, and repeat again. You will have 3 layers each of biscuits and cream. Cover with foil and refrigerate overnight. Remove sides of tin and place torte on a large serving plate.

To make decoration, lightly whip well-chilled cream, if using, until it holds its shape and pipe rosettes around edge of cake. Using a swivel-bladed vegetable peeler, shave curls of chocolate from the narrow edge of chocolate bar and strew over cream, or place chocolate buttons around edge, between cream rosettes. Serve cut into wedges. Serves 12.

CARAMEL ALMOND TORTE

3 eggs, separated
½ cup caster sugar
½ teaspoon vanilla essence
¼ cup Caramel Syrup
6 tablespoons flour
½ teaspoon baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon cream of tartar
½ cup chopped toasted almonds

Topping

1 cup cream, whipped with 1 tablespoon brown sugar
few whole toasted almonds

Beat egg yolks until thick, pale and creamy, then beat in ¼ cup sugar and the vanilla. Gradually add caramel syrup and beat until well blended. Sift flour, baking powder and salt over mixture and gently fold in. Whisk egg whites until foamy, add cream of tartar and whisk until whites hold their shape. Gradually whisk in remaining sugar and continue whisking until whites are a stiff snow. Fold whites into yolk mixture with chopped almonds. Pour into a lightly greased 23 cm (9 in) springform tin. Bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for 25 minutes or until golden-brown on top and beginning to shrink away slightly from sides of tin. Remove sides of tin and cool on a wire rack. Top with whipped cream and almonds to serve. Serves 8.

COFFEE AND NUT DOBOSTORTE

4 eggs
¾ cup caster sugar
1¼ cups flour

Coffee butter cream

cup sugar
½ cup water
3 egg yolks
250 g (8 oz) unsalted butter, creamed
½ cup ground hazelnuts
1 tablespoon coffee essence

Caramel

cup sugar
cup water

Decoration

½ cup ground hazelnuts
8 whole hazelnuts

Grease 3 baking trays and dust lightly with flour, shaking off excess. Using a cake tin or plate as a guide, mark 5 × 20 cm (8 in) circles on trays, 2 circles on 2 of the trays and 1 on the third tray. Whisk eggs with sugar in a heatproof bowl over a saucepan of very hot water off the heat until mixture is thick and mousse-like. Remove from saucepan and continue whisking until bowl is cold. Using a metal spoon, fold in sifted flour, lightly and thoroughly. Divide mixture into 5 portions and spread inside each circle on the prepared baking trays. Bake in a preheated moderately hot oven (190°C/375°F) for 5–8 minutes or until pale golden-brown. Remove from oven. Using a sharp knife, trim rounds if necessary. Cool on wire racks.

To make butter cream, dissolve sugar in water, stirring, over medium heat. Bring to the boil and boil for 5–6 minutes, without stirring, until syrup reaches thread stage. (To test, drop ½ teaspoon syrup into a cup of ice cold water; it should form threads.) Pour onto egg yolks and whisk until thick and mousse-like. Gradually beat in creamed butter, ground hazelnuts and coffee essence.

Place one round of cake on an oiled baking tray ready to coat with caramel.

To make caramel, combine sugar and water in a heavy saucepan over very low heat and stir until sugar dissolves. Increase heat, bring to the boil and boil steadily, without stirring, until mixture is a rich dark brown. Pour at once over round of cake. Cool for a few minutes until on point of setting, then mark into 8 portions with an oiled knife and trim around edges. To assemble torte, sandwich cake rounds together with half the butter cream, placing caramel-covered round on top. Spread sides of cake with half remaining butter cream, and press ground hazelnuts onto sides. Using rest of butter cream, pipe a rosette on each caramel portion and decorate with whole hazelnuts. Serves 8.

NOTE: Baking the rounds of cake can be done in rotation using one baking tray, but each time it must be wiped, re-greased and floured.

TORTILLA

The national bread of Mexico, a tortilla is a thin, flat cake made with cornmeal, from white corn, called masa.Tortillas are cooked on a griddle without browning, so they are quite soft and may be eaten like this or fried briefly in oil to crisp them. Masa is not readily available commercially in Australia, but soft tortillas are available in cans and also in refrigerated packages in some delicatessens.

Tortillas may be used as a plate or scoop for other food, or stuffed with a filling and rolled up. They are also the basis for other dishes: a Mexican family might start the day with freshly made soft tortillas, then eat more tortillas at every meal throughout the day to accompany meat dishes or as tacos or enchiladas.

Tortilla is also the Spanish name for omelette.

See also Tacos; Enchiladas; Omelette: Spanish Omelette.

TOURNEDOS

The French name for a small thick steak cut from the centre of a beef fillet; trim fillet of all fat and gristle and remove outer sinew. A tournedos should be about 5 cm (2 in) thick when it is ready for cooking, but if it comes from the area towards the narrower end of the fillet, it may be cut thicker and flattened with your hand to make it a little wider. Then shape it with your hands into a neat circular shape, and tie string around it to keep the shape, before cooking it.

A tournedos can be grilled but is usually pan-fried, and is often served on a Croûte, to catch the juices. It can be garnished in many ways to make luxury dishes which take their names from the garnish.

TOURNEDOS

1 tablespoon oil
30 g (1 oz) butter
4 tournedos
4 round Croûtes
salt and freshly ground black pepper
sauce or garnish of your choice (see recipe)

Heat a large, heavy frying pan until a drop of water flicked onto the surface will bounce and sizzle. Add oil and heat, then add butter and, when just turning brown, put in tournedos. Sear for 2 minutes on each side. Reduce heat to moderately low and continue to cook, turning once, for about 5 minutes more for rare, 7 minutes for medium-done. Remove strings from tournedos and place each on a hot croûte set on a heated plate. Season with salt and pepper. Garnish as desired and serve immediately. Serves 4.

VARIATIONS

TOURNEDOS ROSSINI: Place a slice of foie gras on each tournedos and spoon ¾ cup hot Madeira Sauce over them. Top each with a slice of truffle.

TOURNEDOS PARISIENNE: Garnish each plate with asparagus tips and Noisette Potatoes, and spoon ¾ cup warm Béarnaise Sauce over them.

TOURNEDOS CHASSEUR: Spoon ¾ cup hot Chasseur Sauce over tournedos and sprinkle with finely chopped parsley.

TOURNEDOS OPÉRA: Accompany tournedos with individual Rich Shortcrust Pastry tart shells filled with diced chicken livers, sautéed in butter, mixed with Madeira Sauce.

TREACLE

A by-product of sugar refining; it is the fluid left after sugar cane has been processed.

There are two types of treacle: black treacle, which closely resembles molasses but is sweeter, and light treacle, better known as golden syrup. Light treacle is used in the filling for the nursery favourite treacle tart. Black treacle enhances the flavour of rich fruit cakes, puddings and gingerbreads. It can also be used in barbecue sauces, or indeed in almost any recipe calling for molasses.

Treacle is obtainable from most good supermarkets, health food shops and delicatessens.

See also Ginger: Rich Ginger Cake.

RICH TREACLE TART

1 quantity Plain Shortcrust Pastry
1½ cups fresh bread or plain cake crumbs
1 cup golden syrup
1 egg, beaten
grated rind and juice ½ lemon

Roll out pastry dough and use to line a 20 cm (8 in) pie plate. Combine remaining ingredients and pour into pastry case. Use any remaining pastry to decorate the tart with a lattice design. Bake in a preheated hot oven (200°C/400°F) for 10 minutes, then reduce heat to moderate (180°C/350°F) and bake for a further 20 minutes. Allow to cool, during which time filling will set. Serves 6.

OLD-FASHIONED GINGER CAKE

2 cups flour
1 teaspoon mixed spice
2 teaspoons ground ginger
1 teaspoon bicarbonate of soda
125 g (4 oz) butter
cup firmly packed brown sugar
2 tablespoons black treacle
½ cup golden syrup
2 eggs, beaten
½ cup milk

Sift flour, spice, ginger and soda into a bowl. Then combine butter, sugar, treacle and syrup in a small heavy saucepan. Heat gently until melted and dissolved, then allow to cool. Stir into dry ingredients with eggs and milk and beat thoroughly until smooth. Pour into a greased and lined 18 cm (7 in) square cake tin. Bake in a preheated slow oven (150°C/300°F) for 1¼ –1½ hours or until a skewer inserted in centre comes out clean. Cool in tin for 15 minutes, then turn out. Serve plain or iced with Lemon Glacé Icing.

TREACLE SCONES

2 cups self-raising flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon mixed spice
pinch salt
60 g (2 oz) butter
1½ tablespoons caster sugar
2 tablespoons sultanas (optional)
1 tablespoon treacle
about cup milk

Sift flour, baking powder, spice and salt into a bowl. Rub in butter until mixture resembles fine breadcrumbs. Stir in sugar and sultanas, if using. Gently heat treacle in a small saucepan and mix thoroughly with half the milk. Add to dry ingredients with enough of the remaining milk to make a soft dough. Turn dough onto a floured work surface and flatten out to about 2 cm (¾ in) thick. Cut into rounds or squares using a floured scone cutter or sharp knife. Place on a lightly greased baking tray. Bake in a preheated very hot oven (230°C/450°F) for 10–12 minutes or until well risen and golden-brown. Cool on a wire rack. Makes about 12.

BARA BRITH

A Welsh fruit bread packed with flavour.

2 cups self-raising flour
pinch salt
1 teaspoon mixed spice
60 g (2 oz) butter
cup sugar
grated rind 1 lemon
¾ cup sultanas
¼ cup treacle
1 egg, beaten
½ teaspoon bicarbonate of soda
½ cup milk

Sift flour, salt and spice into a bowl. Rub in butter until mixture resembles fine breadcrumbs. Stir in sugar, lemon rind and sultanas. Add treacle and egg. Dissolve bicarbonate of soda in milk, add to flour mixture and mix until well blended. Turn into a greased and lined 21 × 15 cm (8½ × 6 in) loaf tin. Bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for about 1¼ hours or until a skewer inserted in centre comes out clean. Turn onto a wire rack to cool. Wrap in foil and store for 24 hours before serving, sliced and buttered.

TRIFLE

English trifle is similar to tipsy cake. It contains sponge cake soaked in a combination of good sweet sherry and brandy, rich egg custard, cream, nuts and jam. Although it is not traditional, some people also like to add fresh or canned fruit to the sponge cake base.

A well-made trifle is a splendid dish to serve at a party, piled up in your prettiest serving dish and decorated with fresh or glacé fruits, crushed macaroons or nuts.

TRIFLE

2 × 18 cm (7 in) Sponge Sandwich layers, made the day before
strawberry or raspberry jam
½ cup sweet sherry
2 tablespoons brandy
about 1 cup Crème Anglaise
1–1½ cups Crème Chantilly
½ cup almonds, blanched and split

Decoration

6 glacé cherries, halved
candied angelica, rinsed in warm water to remove sugar coating and cut into strips
½ cup roughly crushed macaroons (optional)

Cut sponge into 3.5 cm (1½ in) pieces and spread each piece lightly with jam. Pile into a serving dish and sprinkle with sherry and brandy. Allow to soak while making the crème anglaise. Pour hot custard over soaked cake, cover and chill overnight. Cover trifle thickly with crème Chantilly, piling it up in decorative swirls. Sprinkle almonds over, and decorate with glacé cherries, strips of angelica and crushed macaroons, if using. Serves 8–10.

TRIPE

The lining of the stomach of cattle or sheep, but particularly the former. These animals actually have four different stomachs, so tripe is available either quite smooth or honeycombed. Tripe is nearly always sold blanched and partly cooked, but it still needs further long, slow cooking. This is usually preceded by a second blanching, in order to freshen the flavour.

One of the classic accompaniments to tripe is onions, whether in the English tripe and onions or the French tripes à la lyonnaise. In Italy, tripe is often cooked with tomatoes or served in a tomato sauce; in Nice, in the south of France, tripe might be cooked with onions, tomatoes, garlic and white wine.

TRIPE AND ONIONS IN PARSLEY SAUCE

1 kg (2 lb) tripe, cut into squares
1½ cups water
5 onions, sliced
1 teaspoon salt

Parsley sauce

60 g (2 oz) butter
2 tablespoons flour
1 cup milk
salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons chopped parsley

Place tripe in a large saucepan, cover with cold water and bring to the boil. Boil for 5 minutes, then drain and discard water. Add measured water, bring to the boil, cover and simmer for 1 hour. Add onions and salt and continue to cook for about a further hour or until tripe is tender. Take care not to overcook. When tender, drain off liquid and reserve 1 cup for the sauce.

To make parsely sauce, melt butter in a clean saucepan and add flour. Cook without browning for 2 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in reserved liquid from tripe and milk. Return to heat and cook, stirring, until sauce thickens. Season with salt and pepper. Add parsley, tripe and onions, and serve very hot. Serves 6.

TRIPES À LA LYONNAISE

1 kg (2 lb) tripe
1 teaspoon salt
4 large onions, finely sliced
1 clove garlic, chopped
60 g (2 oz) butter
salt and freshly ground white pepper
1½ cups dry white wine
2 tablespoons lemon juice
1 tablespoon chopped parsley to garnish

Place piece of tripe in large saucepan, cover with water and bring to the boil. Drain off water, and add fresh water just to cover. Add salt, bring to the boil and simmer gently until tender, about 1 hour. Drain tripe and cut into thin strips about 5 cm (2 in) long. Fry onions and garlic in 30 g (1 oz) butter until golden. Add the remaining butter with tripe and cook for a further 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper, and stir in wine. Cook over high heat for 1 minute, then reduce heat, cover and simmer gently for 1 hour. Add lemon juice, and sprinkle with parsley before serving. Serves 6.

CASSEROLE OF TRIPE

500 g (1 lb) tripe
1 knuckle veal, split
2 rashers lean bacon, rind removed, cut into squares
1 large onion, sliced
3–4 carrots, quartered
30 g (1 oz) butter
1 clove garlic, chopped
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
1 cup dry white wine
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Place tripe and veal knuckle in a saucepan, cover with cold water and bring to the boil. Drain off water. Fry bacon, onion and carrots in butter for about 5 minutes. Cut tripe into small squares, and place on top of vegetables with knuckle. Sprinkle with garlic and parsley, add wine, and bring just to the boil. Cover tightly and cook very gently for 2–2½ hours. Remove veal knuckle and season with salt and pepper to taste before serving. Serves 4.

TROUT

The flavour of this freshwater fish is so delicate and the texture so fine it is regarded as one of the great fish of the world.

Trout are caught in mountain streams and lakes, and many fishermen consider the best method of cooking them is to dip them in flour and sauté each side in butter or bacon fat, with as little time as possible between catching and eating.

Indeed, they are absolutely delicious treated this way, but not everyone has the opportunity to fish for trout. Most people rely on the fishmonger to supply fresh trout. These are produced especially for the market at trout farms, and their quality is excellent. They are also available frozen, and can be purchased from good supermarkets and delicatessens.

Smoked trout is also considered a superb delicacy. Serve skinned and filleted with thin brown bread and butter, a twist of lemon and a grinding of black pepper. Smoked trout is available at good delicatessens. For ocean trout, see Salmon.

To buy: A trout about 300 g (10 oz) is sufficient for 1 serving. A larger trout about 600 g (1 lb 4 oz) will serve 2. Allow an extra 2–3 minutes’ cooking time for larger trout.

Basic preparation:

To clean fresh trout: Split the fish along the belly from the vent to the head. Remove the gills, entrails and stomach lining, leaving the head and tail intact. Rinse well in cold running water to remove all trace of blood. Dry well with paper towels.

To prepare cleaned fresh trout: Simply rinse lightly in cold water and pat dry with paper towels.

To prepare frozen trout: Allow the fish to thaw according to instructions on the packet. Rinse lightly in cold water and pat dry with paper towels.

To fillet smoked or cooked trout: Cut the fish down the lateral line along the side. Hold the knife against the backbone and, with a fork, ease the flesh from the rib cage and backbone. Slide the 2 fillets off the fish to each side of it. Lift up the tail and slide the knife under the backbone, lifting it up and easing off the flesh. Discard the tail, backbone and head, leaving 4 fillets ready to eat.

To cook: Trout can be grilled, baked, poached, barbecued or pan-fried. Be careful not to overcook or the flesh will be dry and powdery, losing much flavour. The flesh should be moist and flake easily when sufficiently cooked. Leave the head on and when done the eye will be quite white and opaque.

Baked trout: Season trout inside the cavity with black pepper and salt. Put in a buttered shallow ovenproof dish, dot with butter, pour over ¼ cup white wine, cover dish with foil and bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for 15–20 minutes.

Poached trout: Lower trout into boiling Court Bouillon and cook for 5 minutes. If serving hot, transfer drained trout to a heated platter and pour over a little melted butter. If trout is to be served cold, allow to cool in court bouillon and remove skin just before serving.

Barbecued trout: Season trout with salt and black pepper, place a knob of butter or bacon fat in the cavity, spread fish with softened butter. Wrap in foil and cook over or in coals for 10–15 minutes.

Grilled trout: Wrap each trout with a very thin bacon rasher. Place under a preheated moderate grill and grill for about 5 minutes on each side or until the bacon is crisp and trout is cooked.

Pan-fried trout: For 2 trout, (about 300 g/10 oz each) melt 30 g (1 oz) butter and 2 teaspoons oil in a large, heavy-based frying pan. Dip the fish lightly in seasoned flour and place in the pan when the butter stops foaming. Fry over moderate heat for 3–4 minutes on each side or until the eye is white and opaque and the flesh easily penetrated with a fine skewer.

TROUT MEUNIÈRE

2 trout (about 300 g /10 oz each), cleaned
milk
seasoned flour
90 g (3 oz) butter
2 tablespoons oil
1 lemon, sliced
squeeze lemon juice
salt and freshly ground black pepper
chopped parsley to garnish

Dip trout in milk, then dust lightly with seasoned flour and shake off any excess. Melt 60 g (2 oz) butter and the oil in a large frying pan. When butter foams, add trout and cook for about 3–4 minutes on each side or until golden-brown and flesh flakes easily when tested with a fine skewer. Transfer to a heated serving dish and place a few slices of lemon on each fish. Heat remaining butter in frying pan and when it foams add lemon juice. Season with salt and pepper and pour sizzling butter over fish. Garnish with chopped parsley. Serves 2.

VARIATION

TROUT AMANDINE: Cook trout as for Trout Meunière. Remove to a serving platter and keep warm. Heat 60 g (2 oz) butter in pan and gently fry ¼ cup blanched, sliced almonds until golden-brown. Add 1 tablespoon lemon juice, salt and pepper. Pour over hot fish and serve at once.

TROUT NANTUA

2 cups water
½ cup dry white wine
1 bay leaf
2 sprigs parsley
6 black peppercorns
salt
juice ½ lemon
4 trout (about 300 g/10 oz each), cleaned

Sauce

cup Mayonnaise
cup tomato juice
dash Tabasco sauce
salt and freshly ground black pepper
60 g (2 oz) cooked, shelled prawns, de-veined
1 cucumber, finely sliced, and watercress sprigs to garnish

Combine water, wine, bay leaf, parsley, peppercorns, salt and lemon juice in a large frying pan. Bring to the boil, then reduce heat and place trout side by side in simmering liquid. Poach very gently for 5–8 minutes or until flesh will flake easily when tested with a fine skewer. Allow to cool in the liquid. Drain, skin and fillet fish.

To make sauce, combine mayonnaise, tomato juice, Tabasco, salt, pepper and prawns and spoon over fish. Garnish with cucumber slices and watercress sprigs. Serve with thin triangles of brown bread and butter. Serves 4.

VARIATION

COLD POACHED TROUT WITH CUCUMBER SAUCE: Poach trout as for Trout Nantua and allow to cool in liquid. Drain carefully, skin and arrange on a platter with lemon wedges and sprigs of parsley. To make sauce, peel 1 small cucumber, cut in half lengthways and scoop out seeds. Chop flesh very finely and mix with ½ cup Fromage Blanc or sour light cream, 1 tablespoon lemon juice, pinch paprika, 1 tablespoon snipped chives and ½ teaspoon chopped fresh dill.

SMOKED TROUT WITH HORSERADISH CREAM

2 smoked trout
slices or wedges lemon or lime
citrus leaves or fresh dill
2 tablespoons grated horseradish
1 cup sour cream
salt and freshly ground black pepper
thin brown bread-and-butter sandwiches

With a sharp knife, slit trout skin along back and belly, and cut through skin just behind head and in front of tail on both sides. Carefully peel off skin and place whole trout on a serving platter or board. Garnish with lemon or lime and a spray of citrus leaves or dill. Mix horseradish and sour cream, and season with salt and pepper. Place in a bowl. To serve, cut through the flesh along back and down centre, and loosen and lift off blocks of trout. When first side is served, turn over and repeat with other side. Serve with horseradish cream, freshly ground black pepper, and small brown bread-and-butter sandwiches. Serves 6–8.

GRILLED TROUT WITH HERBS

4 trout (about 300 g /10 oz each), cleaned
salt and freshly ground black pepper
lemon juice
4 tablespoons chopped mixed fresh herbs (parsley, chives, marjoram, basil)
flour
60 g (2 oz) butter, melted

Sauce

30 g (1 oz) butter
1 tablespoon hot water
squeeze lemon juice

Season trout inside and out with salt, pepper and lemon juice. Place 1 tablespoon chopped herbs inside each cavity. Sprinkle fish with a little flour, patting it in with the fingers. (This improves colour and also helps to keep fish moist.) Place melted butter in grill tray, add fish and turn fish over in butter to coat on all sides. Cook under a preheated high grill for 5–8 minutes, without turning, until skin is crispy and flesh flakes easily when tested with a fine skewer. The underside will also be cooked at this stage. Place fish on a heated serving platter. Add butter for sauce to grill tray with hot water and lemon juice. Swirl this around to heat through, then pour over fish and serve at once. Serves 4.

TROUT DEL NERA

4 trout (about 300 g/10 oz each), cleaned
2–3 tablespoons olive oil
salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ cup chopped parsley
few sprigs fresh rosemary, chopped
sprigs fresh herbs to garnish
4 lemon wedges to serve

Arrange trout on greased preheated grill tray or pan, brush with oil and season with salt and pepper. Combine chopped herbs and sprinkle half over fish. Cook under a preheated high grill for about 5–8 minutes, brushing occasionally with oil. Season with salt and pepper and sprinkle over remaining chopped herbs. Grill for a further 1 minute or until fish flakes easily when tested with a fine skewer. Just before serving, trickle over a little more olive oil. Garnish with herb sprigs and serve with lemon wedges. Serves 4.

SMOKED TROUT PÂTÉ

2 smoked trout, skinned and filleted
1 cup sour cream
1 cup ricotta cheese
juice ½ lemon
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Melba Toast to serve

Flake trout and place in a blender with sour cream and ricotta cheese. Blend until smooth. Or mash with a fork or process in a food processor and push through a sieve. The mixture should be very smooth. Stir in lemon juice, salt and pepper. Pack into a 3-cup soufflé dish or 6 × ½ -cup individual little pots. Cover and chill overnight. Serve with Melba toast. Serves 6.

TROUT IN CREAM SAUCE

¼ cup flour
salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 trout (about 300 g/10 oz each), cleaned
60 g (2 oz) butter, melted
¾ cup cream
1 tablespoon snipped chives

Season flour with salt and pepper and dust trout lightly, shaking off any excess flour. Brush a small baking dish with melted butter and place trout in dish. Brush fish with remaining butter to coat well. Bake in a preheated hot oven (200°C/400°F) for 7–10 minutes or until skin is brown and crisp, basting occasionally with butter in dish. Meanwhile, season cream with salt and pepper and bring to the boil. Continue boiling for about 3 minutes or until thickened slightly. Remove from heat and stir in chives. Place trout on a heated serving platter and pour over hot cream sauce. Serve immediately. Serves 4.

TRUFFLE

One of nature’s best kept secrets, the truffle has resisted exploitation by modern agriculture until recent years. It is an edible fungus which grows underground, usually near oak trees, in many parts of the world. Not all truffles, however, have the same quality. The most esteemed are the black truffles from the Périgord in France, closely followed by the white truffles found in the Piedmont area of northern Italy. Excellent truffles are now grown in Australia but are still very expensive to buy.

The harvest takes place around late autumn, with the aid of specially trained pigs or dogs who sniff out the elusive truffles. Some truffles are used fresh, particularly for Christmas specialties such as roast truffled turkey, truffled boudin blanc (white pudding) or truffled goose liver pâté; others go into manufactured foods or are canned for year-round use.

Outside France and Italy, truffles usually come in cans – either as whole small truffles, truffle pieces or peelings, or truffle juice. Canned truffles or truffle pieces may be used in any recipe calling for truffles, and truffle juice may be used in a sauce. Even the peelings can be used to add flavour to a sauce, but should be removed before serving.

Truffles are, arguably, the most expensive ingredient a kitchen could have, but fortunately only a very small amount is required to perfume and flavour a dish.

In almost all dishes, it is best to add the truffle to whatever it is intended to perfume and then leave for several hours, at least, to allow the perfume of the truffle to permeate the food. Canned truffles are not nearly as flavoursome as fresh ones, but they can be improved if soaked in Madeira or port when removed from the can.

Ways to use truffles: Fresh truffles finely shaved are good with steamed potatoes, pasta, poached or scrambled eggs and steamed chicken. When, as is almost always the case, the supply of truffles is limited, use the truffle in a dish which will make the most of its flavour, rather than attempting to duplicate, with one small can of truffles, a dish which requires several large truffles. Use a small truffle to advantage in a terrine or pâté; with a loin of pork for roasting; slipped under the skin of a plump chicken before gently poaching; or added to a flavoursome brown Madeira sauce and served with perfectly cooked beef fillet or a warm, poached chicken liver mousse. Italians shave thin slices over freshly cooked pasta.

CHICKEN BREASTS WITH TRUFFLE SAUCE

1 × 30 g can truffle pieces or 30 g small fresh truffles, chopped
¼ cup port or Madeira
6 chicken fillets (skinless, boneless half-breasts)
salt and freshly ground black pepper
about ½ cup flour
90 g (3 oz) Clarified Butter
1 tablespoon chopped shallot
½ cup chicken stock

Mix truffle pieces and juice with port or Madeira, and leave to stand for 30 minutes. Season chicken with salt and pepper and lightly coat with flour. Cook chicken in hot clarified butter in a frying pan for about 3 minutes each side or until springy to touch. Remove to a heated dish. Add shallot to pan and cook for about 1 minute. Stir in stock and truffle mixture, bring to the boil and reduce over high heat until slightly thickened and syrupy. Pour sauce over chicken and serve immediately. Serves 6.

TRUFFLED LOIN OF PORK

1 × 1 kg (2 lb) boned pork loin, rind removed (bone and rind reserved)
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 × 60 g can truffle pieces, or 1 whole small truffle, chopped
1 small clove garlic, sliced
2 cups chicken stock
½ cup dry white wine

Spread meat flat and season with salt and pepper. Drain can of truffle pieces, if using, and reserve liquid. Place pieces of truffle at intervals along meat, together with slivers of garlic. Roll up meat neatly and tie securely with fine string. Leave for 1 hour, then place in baking dish with bones, trimmings and rind cut into strips. Roast in a preheated moderately slow oven (160°C/325°F) for 30 minutes, then add stock, wine and liquid from truffle can, if available. Cover and leave to cook for 2–2½ hours longer. Remove pork and set aside to cool. Drain off liquid. Chill pork and liquid. Next day, remove layer of fat from jellied liquid. Slice pork and surround with chopped jelly. Serves 6.

TRUFFLE, CHOCOLATE

This is a rich, luscious, cocoa-covered ball, which earns its name from its similar appearance to the real truffle, fresh from the earth. Chocolate truffles are perfect to serve with after-dinner coffee.

CHOCOLATE TRUFFLES

150 g (5 oz) dark chocolate
cup thick cream
30 g (1 oz) unsalted butter
rum or brandy (optional)
sifted cocoa powder

Melt chocolate in a basin placed over a pan of hot water. Bring cream to the boil in a pan, add to the chocolate and mix well. Refrigerate overnight. Next day, heat mixture gently over hot water again; when melted, gradually blend in butter and flavour with a little rum or brandy if desired. Remove from heat and cool. Chill until firm. Form into small balls, and roll in cocoa. Store in refrigerator, but remove about 1 hour before serving. Makes about 24.

NOTE: Chocolate truffles are best made in the cold winter months.

TUILES

Crisp curled wafer biscuits, very thin and delicious as petits fours with coffee or as an accompaniment to ice creams. After baking, the pliable mixture is draped over a rolling pin to cool, which gives the characteristic tuile shape. Handle the mixture quickly and lightly at this point as it cools and crisps quickly. Bake in batches of no more than 4 at a time for ease of handling. Tuiles can be flavoured with almonds, orange or lemon rind or vanilla. Store in airtight containers.

TUILES D’AMANDES

2 egg whites
½ cup caster sugar
½ cup flour, sifted
½ teaspoon vanilla essence
¼ cup blanched, slivered almonds
60 g (2 oz) butter, melted and cooled

Beat egg whites until stiff and gradually beat in sugar. Gently fold in flour, vanilla, almonds and butter. Spread 3–4 teaspoons of mixture to form flat rounds or ovals, well separated from each other, on greased baking trays. Bake in a preheated moderately hot oven (190°C/375°F) for 4–5 minutes or until golden. Remove from heat and, using a spatula, lift off carefully. Quickly drape over a rolling pin to cool. When cold, store in an airtight container. Makes 10–16 according to size required.

VARIATIONS

TUILES À LA VANILLE: Follow recipe for Tuiles d’Amandes, omitting slivered almonds and increasing vanilla to ¾ teaspoon.

TUILES À L’ORANGE: Follow recipe for Tuiles d’Amandes, omitting slivered almonds and vanilla and using 2 teaspoons finely grated orange rind instead (or lemon rind for lemon-flavoured tuiles).

NOTE: For large tuiles, spread 2–3 tablespoons of the mixture on baking trays to form round or oval shapes up to 15 cm (6 in) across. Bake and finish as for Tuiles d’Amandes.

TUNA

Fresh tuna steaks are such a good food and comparatively economical with little wastage from such dense meat. For those of us lucky enough to be able to shop at large fish markets, tuna has become a familiar sight. Ask for yellowfin tuna as the sustainable choice. Southern bluefin tuna has been declared by the Bureau of Rural Sciences as overfished and endangered. Steaks cut from the middle sections of the fish are really delicious grilled. Fresh tuna can also be baked, pan-fried, sliced paper-thin for tuna carpaccio (see Carpaccio) or eaten raw in the Japanese dish Sashimi.

Canned tuna is sold canned in oil, springwater or brine, in solid-pack style (large pieces), chunk style (smaller pieces) and sandwich or salad style (flaked). Various manufacturers also can it with flavourings such as onion, tomato, curry, etc. It is one of the best items to have on the emergency shelf. A can or two of tuna can be turned quickly into appetisers to serve with drinks, a hearty soup, a first course or main dish or, of course, into substantial salads and sandwiches.

To cook: Fresh tuna is often marinated before cooking and must be well basted while grilling or baking. For grilling, baking or poaching use steaks about 4 cm (1½ in) thick; for pan-frying use thinner ones, about 2 cm (¾ in) thick, or slice the tuna thinly into escalopes, flour lightly and fry for 2–3 minutes on each side. In general, it is best to leave the skin on the steaks for cooking, to hold them in shape, but peel it off before serving as it is unattractively dark and can have a strong flavour. Do not overcook tuna; the centre of each steak should be pale pink.

FRESH TUNA BURGERS

500 g (1 lb) tuna, cut into chunks
½ red onion, finely chopped
2 tablespoons freshly chopped coriander and parsley
½ teaspoon cumin
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon olive oil
salad greens to serve

Put the tuna in the bowl of a food processor and process using an on–off action until finely chopped. Add the onion, herbs, cumin and salt and pepper to taste and mix well. Using an egg poacher or with wetted hands shape the mixture into 4 even-size thick patties. Cover and refrigerate them until ready to use.

Heat the oil in heavy frying pan, add the tuna burgers and cook over a high heat for 1 minute on each side. They should be golden on the outside and moist and very pink in the middle. Serve with creamy mashed potatoes or on toasted crusty bread with salad greens. Serves 4.

GRILLED TUNA WITH ROCKET SALAD

6–8 patty pan squashes, halved
125 g (4 oz) sugar snap or snow peas, topped and tailed
1 bunch rocket leaves
1 red salad onion
4 tuna steaks
1 tablespoon light olive oil
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Dressing

juice 1 lime
1 teaspoon freshly grated ginger
3 tablespoons olive oil

Bring a saucepan of salted water to the boil, add the squashes and boil for 2–3 minutes or until tender. Remove with a slotted spoon and refresh in iced water. Drop the peas in boiling water and cook for 1 minute or until bright green. Drain, refresh in cold water and drain thoroughly. Remove the stems from the rocket, thoroughly wash the leaves, and dry well. Halve the onion and cut into thin slices. In a large bowl, whisk together the lime juice, ginger and oil. Toss the rocket and vegetables lightly in the dressing and set aside.

Brush the steaks with the olive oil and cook for a few minutes on each side under a preheated grill or in a ribbed grill pan or heavy frying pan. The tuna should be seared on the outside and still pinkish on the inside. To serve, pile the salad on serving plates and top with the grilled tuna. Season to taste with salt and a good grinding of pepper. Serves 4.

TUNA BROCHETTES

1 kg (2 lb) tuna steaks, cut 2 cm (¾ in) thick
½ cup olive oil
¼ cup lemon juice
1 teaspoon salt
freshly ground black pepper
2 sticks French bread, cut into 1 cm (½ in) slices
bay leaves

Remove skin from tuna and cut meat into bite-size pieces. Mix oil, lemon juice, salt and pepper, add tuna and marinate it for 1 hour, turning pieces gently once or twice. Thread a slice of bread onto a small bamboo or flat metal skewer, add a piece of fish and a bay leaf, and repeat until skewer contains 3 pieces of fish, 3 bay leaves and 4 pieces of bread. Do not push ingredients too close together. Repeat with more skewers and remaining bread, tuna and bay leaves. Brush filled skewers with marinade and cook under a preheated high grill for about 10 minutes or until browned, turning and basting with marinade several times. Serves 6.

NOTE: Soak bamboo skewers in hot water for 2 hours before using, to prevent charring.

FRESH TUNA WITH CORIANDER

4 tuna steaks, cut about 2 cm (¾ in) thick
1 cup dry white wine
seasoned flour
2 tablespoons oil
30 g (1 oz) butter
salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 teaspoons lemon juice
2 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander leaves

Marinate tuna in white wine for 2 hours. Drain, reserving wine. Dry steaks and dust lightly with seasoned flour. Heat oil in a frying pan, add butter and, when just turning brown, put steaks in. Sauté for 3–5 minutes on each side. Remove tuna to heated plates, peel off skin and keep warm. Add reserved wine to pan and boil over high heat for 30 seconds, stirring in brown bits from pan. Remove from heat, season with salt and pepper and stir in lemon juice and coriander. Pour over fish and serve immediately. Serves 4.

VITELLO TONNATO (VEAL WITH TUNA SAUCE)

The famous and superb Italian summer dish of veal masked with a creamy tuna sauce. Serve with a green salad.

1 × 2 kg (4 lb) boned veal leg roast, rolled and tied
6 anchovy fillets, chopped
1 onion, sliced
2 sticks celery, sliced
2 carrots, sliced
2 sprigs parsley
2 cloves
salt and freshly ground black pepper
2–3 bay leaves
1 cup dry white wine (optional)
lemon slices to garnish

Tuna sauce

1 × 200 g can tuna in oil, drained
6 anchovy fillets
1 teaspoon capers
2 tablespoons lemon juice
freshly ground black pepper
½ cup Mayonnaise

With a sharp-pointed knife make holes in surface of meat and insert pieces of anchovy. Place meat in a flameproof casserole with onion, celery, carrots, parsley, cloves, salt and pepper. Put bay leaves on top of meat. Pour in wine, if using, and sufficient water to cover meat. Bring slowly to the boil, then reduce heat, cover and simmer for 1½ –2 hours. When veal is tender, remove string and allow to cool in stock.

To make tuna sauce, pound tuna with anchovy fillets, capers and lemon juice, or purée in a food processor until smooth. Season with pepper. Combine with mayonnaise. Add a little of the veal stock if sauce is too thick.

Drain veal well when cold, put into an earthenware or glass bowl and cover with the tuna sauce. Cover and marinate overnight. A few hours before serving, remove veal from sauce and slice thinly. Arrange slices on serving platter and spoon over sauce thinned with a little more veal stock or olive oil. Chill again until ready to serve. Garnish with sliced lemon. Serves 8.

FRESH TUNA WITH PEAS TUSCAN-STYLE

Tuscan cooks sauté thin slices of tuna and serve them in a superbly simple wine sauce with green peas. Serve in deep plates, with lots of crusty bread to mop up the delicious sauce.

¼ cup olive oil
1 clove garlic, crushed
1 small onion, finely chopped
500 g (1 lb) tuna fillets, skinned and thinly sliced
¼ cup dry white wine
2 teaspoons tomato paste
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1½ cups cooked peas
2 teaspoons finely chopped parsley

Heat oil in a large frying pan and brown garlic and onion gently. Push vegetables to side of pan. Add tuna and brown lightly. Add wine and tomato paste, and season with salt and pepper. Cover and cook on very low heat for 10–15 minutes. Add peas, heat through for a few minutes and serve very hot, sprinkled with finely chopped parsley. Serves 4–6.

ITALIAN TUNA WITH HARICOT BEANS AND TOMATOES

¾ cup dried haricot beans, soaked overnight and drained
¼ cup olive oil
1 clove garlic, sliced
3 large ripe tomatoes, peeled and chopped
1 × 200 g can tuna in oil, drained and broken into chunks
1 teaspoon chopped fresh basil, or ½ teaspoon dried
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Cook beans in fresh water to cover until tender. Drain. Heat oil in a large saucepan and brown garlic. Discard garlic and add tomatoes. Salt lightly and cook for 10 minutes. Stir in cooked beans and tuna chunks, sprinkle with basil and plenty of pepper and simmer for 10 minutes. Serve very hot. Serves 6.

HOT TUNA AND POTATO SALAD

4 medium potatoes, peeled, cooked and cut into chunks
cup sliced celery
1 medium onion, chopped
½ cup cooked peas
1 × 200 g can tuna in oil
4 rashers streaky bacon, rind removed
3 tablespoons sugar
6 tablespoons vinegar
2 tablespoons water
½ teaspoon celery seeds
1 egg, beaten
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Put potatoes, celery, onion, peas and tuna with its oil into a shallow casserole. Put bacon into a cold frying pan and simmer for 5 minutes. Stir a little of the hot bacon fat into egg, then stir this back into pan. Pour over potato and tuna mixture. Season with salt and pepper, mix lightly and level surface. Crumble bacon over top. Bake, uncovered, in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for about 15 minutes or until heated through. Serves 6.

TUNA AND APPLE SALAD

1 large red apple, cored and finely sliced
1 tablespoon lemon juice
½ cup thinly sliced celery
1 × 200 g can tuna in oil, drained and broken into chunks
salt and freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup Mayonnaise
¼ cup sour cream
lettuce leaves

Toss apple slices in lemon juice and place in a bowl with celery and tuna. Season with salt and pepper, add mayonnaise and sour cream and mix lightly. Serve on a bed of lettuce. Serves 2 as a light lunch, 4 as a first course.

TUNA MORNAY

60 g (2 oz) plus 2 teaspoons butter
2 tablespoons flour
2 teaspoons dry mustard
1½ cups milk
salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ cup grated cheese
2 × 200 g cans tuna in oil, drained and broken into chunks
cup fresh breadcrumbs

Melt 60 g (2 oz) butter in a saucepan, blend in flour and cook over a gentle heat for 1 minute. Add mustard, then milk, stirring until sauce thickens. Season with salt and pepper and add 2 tablespoons grated cheese. Fold in tuna and turn into a greased flameproof dish. Top with remaining cheese mixed with breadcrumbs and dot with remaining butter. Place under a preheated grill until bubbly and golden. Serves 4.

BRANDADE OF TUNA AND BEANS

A sturdy French provincial dish, needing only a green salad, crusty bread and fresh fruit or the lightest of desserts to complete the meal.

1 cup dried haricot beans, soaked overnight and drained
1 × 200 g can tuna in oil, drained
¾ cup grated mature Cheddar cheese
60 g (2 oz) butter
1 clove garlic, crushed
salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons fine dry breadcrumbs

Cook beans in fresh water to cover until very tender. Drain and mash beans thoroughly with a fork. Mash tuna into beans. Beat in cheese, half the butter, the garlic, salt and pepper. This can all be done in a food processor – brandade should have a firm texture. Pile mixture in a shallow, buttered baking dish. Sprinkle with breadcrumbs and dot with remaining butter. Bake in a preheated hot oven (200°C/400°F) for about 25 minutes or until well browned. Serve warm. Serves 4.

TUNA WITH PEAS

A dish that can be created using the tuna, frozen peas, pasta and can of tomato paste you always have on hand in the kitchen.

2 × 200 g cans tuna in oil
1 onion, finely chopped
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
500 g (1 lb) shelled peas (fresh or frozen)
salt and freshly ground black pepper
pinch sugar
freshly cooked pasta or rice to serve

Drain oil from cans of tuna into a large saucepan. Heat oil and sauté onion over a medium heat until soft. Stir in tomato paste, parsley, peas and enough water barely to cover peas. Season with salt, pepper and sugar. Cover and cook for 10 minutes. Add tuna, broken into chunks, and simmer for 3 minutes more. Serve over freshly cooked pasta tossed with butter and Parmesan cheese, or with rice, noodles or crusty bread and butter. Serves 6.

TAIBA (ALGERIAN CHILLED TUNA WITH RED PEPPER)

The original recipe has enough chilli to make it quite fiery – suit yourself about the amount you use. Add slowly after the other vegetables and taste as you go.

2 red chillies, or to taste, seeded and chopped
1 small red pepper, halved, cored and seeded
6 ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped
4 tablespoons olive oil
4 cloves garlic, crushed
2 tablespoons tomato paste
3 × 200 g cans tuna in oil, drained and coarsely flaked
½ teaspoon ground coriander
salt and freshly ground black pepper

When preparing chillies, work under cold running water, and wash your hands immediately afterwards. Grill pepper halves, skin side up, under a preheated high grill until skin blisters and blackens, then rub skin off under running water. Chop flesh finely. Heat oil in saucepan and add vegetables, chilli, garlic and tomato paste. Stir over moderate heat for 5 minutes. Add tuna, coriander, salt and pepper. Simmer on low heat, stirring gently once or twice, for 5 minutes or until liquid has evaporated. Let taiba cool, then chill, covered, for 2 hours or overnight. Serve with crusty bread. Serves 6.

SAVOURY TUNA SPREAD

This can be used for sandwiches or can be piled on toasted French bread and grilled to make hot canapés.

1 × 185 g can sandwich tuna, drained
2 tablespoons finely chopped celery
1 tablespoon finely chopped shallot
2 tablespoons finely chopped cucumber
3 tablespoons Mayonnaise
dash Worcestershire sauce
dash Tabasco sauce

Mix all ingredients together. Makes about 1½ cups.

TURKEY

Turkey breeding has changed over the years and the present-day bird has more tender breast meat in proportion to dark meat than the same size bird of years ago.

Turkeys are available now from a small 2.5 kg (5 lb) up to a giant 12.5 kg (26 lb). It is also possible to buy half-turkeys, turkey breasts and turkey hindquarters – so there is a turkey to suit almost every family’s size and budget.

A good turkey is compact, with pearly-white skin and a broad plum breast. Organic turkey is a wise choice.

• A 3–4 kg (6–8 lb) turkey, unstuffed weight, will serve 8–10 people.

• A 4–6 kg (8–12 lb) bird will serve 10–14 people.

• A 6–8 kg (12–16 lb) bird will serve 14–16 people.

Most turkeys are purchased frozen, and they will take up to 3 days to thaw in the refrigerator. It is most important that the bird is properly thawed before it is stuffed and cooked, and that the stuffing is added just before roasting. Make the stuffing the day before, as well as the stock, so it is ready for making the gravy.

To stuff a turkey: A turkey is usually stuffed with 2 different stuffings – one in the crop, or neck cavity, and one in the main body cavity. When the turkey is cooked, the stuffing in the crop is carved into slices, so everyone gets a piece of stuffing surrounded by white breast meat and crispy skin. The stuffing from the main body cavity is spooned around the carved meat. Be careful to stuff the crop lightly as the stuffing will expand during cooking, and too much may cause the skin to split, spoiling the appearance of the turkey.

To truss a turkey: Place turkey on its back, legs towards you. Place centre of a piece of string below breast at neck end, bring ends down over wings then down underneath bird. Cross string underneath, then bring it forwards and up to tie ends of drumsticks and parson’s nose together.

To roast: One important point to remember – if you are cooking a very large turkey, do make sure beforehand that your oven is large enough to hold it.

Roasting times: An unstuffed turkey takes 20–30 minutes less overall to cook than a stuffed one. The times given here are for stuffed turkeys. Since ovens vary considerably and the shape of your bird can make a difference, check frequently after suggested cooking time is two-thirds over. Roast in a moderately slow oven (160°C/325°F).

Ready-to-cook weight	Cooking time
3-4 kg (6-8 lb)	3-3½ hours
4-6 kg (8-12 lb)	3½ -4 hours
6-8 kg (12-16 lb)	4-6 hours

To tell when cooked: If a meat thermometer pushed into the thickest part of the thigh registers 90°C/190°F, the turkey is cooked.

If you don’t own a thermometer, pierce the thickest part of the thigh with a fork or fine skewer. If the fork goes in easily and the juice which runs out is clear, the turkey is cooked. If the juice has a pink tinge, further cooking is required.

Rest turkey for 15 minutes in the turned-off oven, with door ajar, while making the gravy. This resting period allows the meat to firm up and makes carving easier.

To carve: First make sure your carving knife is razor-sharp. Remove the trussing strings and skewers and set the bird on a large board or serving plate (a board is easier to carve on). Holding the bird steady with a carving fork, place a long-bladed sharp knife between the thigh and body of the bird and cut through the joint. Remove the leg by pressing it outwards with the knife blade, while bending it back with the fork. Separate the thigh and drumstick, and slice off the dark meat. Repeat with the other leg. Remove the wings and cut into two if desired. Carve down the breast on each side with straight, even strokes.

Carve the stuffing in the crop, including some of the white breast meat, into thin slices; remove stuffing from the body cavity with a spoon.

To serve: The white meat is usually arranged in overlapping slices at one end of a heated platter, with slices of dark meat at the other. The stuffing may be served on two separate heated plates or, if your platter is large enough, arranged alongside the turkey meat.

Roast turkey portions: To roast a half-turkey, turkey breast or turkey hindquarter, place it skin side up on a greased rack in a roasting tin. Spread with softened butter and roast, uncovered, in a preheated moderately slow oven (160°C/325°F), basting with pan juices every 15 minutes, until juices run clear when the thickest part of the meat is pierced with a fine skewer, or a meat thermometer inserted into the thickest part, away from the bone, reads 90°C/190°F. The time will depend on the size and shape of the portion but, as a guide, allow about 30 minutes per 500 g (1 lb). Rest for 15 minutes in the turned-off oven with door ajar, while making the gravy as described in the recipe for Roast Stuffed Turkey (below).

If you want to serve stuffing with your turkey portions, prepare it and spread it in a buttered ovenproof dish. Moisten with a spoonful or two of the pan juices from the turkey and bake it in the oven with the turkey for the last 45 minutes of cooking.

Turkey à la King: Follow recipe for Chicken à la King, substituting cooked turkey for chicken.

Devilled Turkey: Devilled cooked turkey drumsticks or other joints, cut into pieces of suitable size, are a traditional and splendid Boxing Day dish. Follow directions for cooked meat or chicken under recipe for Devil Sauce.

ROAST STUFFED TURKEY

1 × 6 kg (12 lb) turkey with giblets
1 quantity Sausage or Meat Stuffing
1 quantity Chestnut Stuffing
60 g (2 oz) butter, softened
salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons flour

Giblet stock

3½ cups chicken stock
1 slice onion
1 slice carrot
small piece celery

Thaw turkey completely if frozen, and remove bag of giblets from cavity. Wipe cavity of turkey with damp paper towels. Spoon sausage or meat stuffing into the crop (neck cavity), being careful not to pack it too tightly, and press outside of breast to mould stuffing to a good shape. Bring neck flap over stuffing to the back and secure it with a poultry pin or small skewer. Spoon chestnut stuffing into body cavity. Shape bird nicely with both hands and truss. Wipe bird with a paper towel and spread butter over, being sure to cover breast and legs well. Grind a little pepper over. Place turkey on a rack in a large roasting tin, propping up legs with crumpled foil if necessary. Cover pan with a tent of greased foil. Roast in a preheated moderately slow oven (160°C/325°F) for 4–4½ hours or until done (see Roasting Times). Baste every 25 minutes with juices in tin (unless you have a self-basting turkey).Remove foil for last 30 minutes to allow turkey to brown.

To make giblet stock, while turkey is roasting, put giblets into a saucepan with stock, onion, carrot and celery. Cover and simmer for 45 minutes or until giblets are tender. Strain and reserve 3 cups for the gravy. The diced heart and gizzard may be added to the gravy if desired.

Remove the turkey to a heated serving platter or carving board and allow it to rest in a warm place for 20 minutes while making the gravy and finishing the vegetables.

Pour off all but about 3 tablespoons of turkey drippings from roasting tin. Put tin on medium heat, sprinkle in flour and stir briskly to prevent lumps from forming. Cook, stirring all the time, until it has browned. Stir in reserved giblet stock, scraping up all good brown bits on bottom of tin. Bring to the boil and simmer for 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and strain. Stir in diced heart and gizzard, if using. Cranberry sauce, available in cans from many delicatessens and supermarkets, is a classic additional accompaniment. Serves 14.

TURKEY HASH

60 g (2 oz) butter
1 onion, chopped
2 cups cubed cooked turkey
2 cups cubed cooked potatoes
½ cup leftover gravy or cream, or a mixture of both
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley

Heat butter in a large frying pan and fry onion until golden-brown. Stir in turkey and potatoes and cook pressing down with a spatula to form a flat cake, for 3–4 minutes. Lower heat, pour in gravy or cream, and season with salt and pepper. Cook for a further 10 minutes. Serve cut into wedges, sprinkled with chopped parsley. Serves 4–6.

NOTE: Any leftover stuffing can be added with the turkey and potato.

TURKEY PIE

60 g (2 oz) butter
1½ tablespoons flour
1 cup warm turkey stock (made from carcase) or chicken stock
¼ cup cream
salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 teaspoons lemon juice
12 button onions
2 cups cubed cooked turkey
1 cup cooked peas
1 quantity Plain Shortcrust Pastry, or 1 × 375 g (12 oz) packet frozen puff pastry, thawed

Melt 30 g (1 oz) butter in a saucepan, add flour and stir over low heat for 2 minutes. Remove from heat, cool a little and add stock, stirring until smoothly blended. Return to heat and stir until boiling. Stir in cream, salt, pepper and lemon juice. Remove from heat and cool. Cook onions in remaining butter until lightly browned. Arrange turkey in a layer in a pie dish, cover with onions with their butter, then peas, and pour sauce over. Roll out pastry dough and use to cover dish. Seal edges and cut slits in dough lid to allow steam to escape. Chill for 20 minutes, then bake in a preheated very hot oven (230°C/ 450°F) for 10 minutes. Reduce heat to moderate (180°C/350°F) and bake for a further 20 minutes, covering loosely with foil if pastry is browning too much. Serves 4–6.

TURKISH DELIGHT

A jelly-type sweet that is most popular in the Middle East, delicious served with coffee when guests call. Flavour with citrus juices, rose water or peppermint; add chopped nuts; colour delicately with a few drops of food colouring and roll each morsel in sifted icing sugar. Turkish delight makes a lovely gift from your kitchen.

TURKISH DELIGHT

2 tablespoons powdered gelatine
1 cup water
1 lemon
1 orange
3 cups sugar
cup cornflour
red or green food colouring
sifted icing sugar

Sprinkle gelatine over ¼ cup water and set aside to soften. Peel lemon and orange thinly, without any white pith. Squeeze and strain the juice. Place lemon and orange rinds and juice in a deep, heavy saucepan with sugar and cup water. Bring slowly to the boil, stirring to dissolve sugar before boiling point is reached. Boil steadily without stirring for 4–5 minutes until a sugar thermometer registers 105°C/221°F, or when ½ teaspoon syrup dropped into a cup of cold water forms long threads. Mix cornflour with remaining cold water and add to syrup with softened gelatine. Simmer until clear and gelatine has dissolved, stirring occasionally. Add a few drops food colouring, and strain into a lightly oiled 18 cm (7 in) shallow tin. Leave to set overnight. Next day, cut into squares and roll in sifted icing sugar. Package in layers separated with waxed paper lightly dusted with sifted icing sugar. Makes about 50 × 2.5 cm (1 in) squares.

VARIATIONS

Chopped nuts – almonds, pistachios, walnuts – may be added to the mixture before pouring into tins.

CRÈME DE MENTHE TURKISH DELIGHT: Follow the recipe for Turkish Delight, but omit the orange and lemon rinds and juice, and instead flavour with ½ teaspoon oil of peppermint and colour with green food colouring.

ROSE WATER TURKISH DELIGHT: Follow the recipe for Turkish Delight, but omit the orange and lemon rinds and juice, and instead flavour with 2 tablespoons rose water and tint pink with red food colouring. Add ½ cup chopped pistachio nuts before pouring into prepared tins.

TURMERIC

One of the principal spices of India, and an ingredient in most commercial curry powders. The powder is obtained from the dried root of a plant of the ginger family. Fresh turmeric rhizomes resemble ginger and need to be peeled and grated or finely chopped before use.

The most obvious characteristic of turmeric is its colour – ranging from brilliant yellow to deep gold. It may be used as a fabric dye as well as for colouring and flavouring foods, such as curries and Indian rice dishes, as well as chutneys and pickles.

Turmeric can be used instead of saffron to give a yellow colour although the flavour is quite different. It goes into almost all vegetable curries in India, and many other vegetarian dishes. Indonesian curries, too, often call for turmeric.

Like all aromatic spices, turmeric loses its pungency if stored too long; it should be bought in small quantities and replaced when its aroma fades.

MIXED VEGETABLE CURRY

Brussels sprouts, chokos or cabbage could replace any of the vegetables suggested in this recipe.

½ cup oil
½ teaspoon mustard seeds
2 teaspoons turmeric or 1 tablespoon grated fresh turmeric
6–8 curry leaves (optional)
2 cloves garlic, crushed
2 cm (¾ in) piece fresh ginger, grated
pinch chilli powder
½ small cauliflower, broken into florets
250 g (8 oz) green beans, cut into short lengths
1 carrot, finely sliced
6 leaves spinach, torn into pieces
salt

Heat oil in large saucepan and fry mustard seeds, turmeric, curry leaves, if using, garlic, ginger and chilli for a moment or two. Add cauliflower, beans and carrot and fry over medium heat, stirring, until vegetables are half cooked and still crisp. Add spinach and fry for a further 5 minutes. Add salt, cover and simmer over a low heat for 2–3 minutes. Serves 4.

INDIAN LAMB KEBABS

1 kg (2 lb) boneless leg of lamb, cut into cubes
1 small clove garlic
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
½ teaspoon turmeric
½ teaspoon ground coriander
½ teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon crushed dried curry leaves
½ teaspoon crushed dried oregano
2 teaspoons soy sauce
2 teaspoons sesame oil
2 teaspoons lemon juice
1 tablespoon peanut oil

Place lamb cubes in large bowl. Crush garlic with salt, and combine with remaining ingredients. Pour over lamb and stir well to ensure that each piece is covered with mixture. Cover well and refrigerate for at least 3 hours. Drain meat and thread onto small skewers. Cook under a preheated grill or over hot coals until nicely browned on all sides. Serve hot with boiled rice and Indian side dishes if desired. Serves 6.

TURNIP AND SWEDE (RUTABAGA, NEEP AND SWEDISH TURNIP)

These root vegetables grow wild in parts of eastern Europe and Siberia but are widely cultivated in many other countries.

Turnip: It can be either round or long, has white flesh and is at its best when young and small. The round ones should be no bigger than tennis balls and the long ones about the size of a medium carrot. The green tops when very young and fresh can be prepared the same way as spinach. Buy turnips when young, and choose firm, heavy roots with no soft spots. Most turnips are peeled and cubed or sliced before cooking, with some exceptions such as the classic accompaniment to roast duckling – glazed whole baby turnips. Turnips are also delicious with ham, turkey and boiled lamb.

Swede: Also known as Swedish turnip, rutabaga in the USA and neep in Scotland. Swede has a pale yellow flesh, with a firm dense texture. The flavour is slightly milder than a turnip and it can grow to a much larger size without much impairment to taste and texture. Choose swedes that are heavy with no soft spots, holes or bruising. Peel thickly and cut into dice or slices according to your recipe. They are delicious boiled then mashed with butter; roasted around a joint of lamb, beef or pork; used in soups or stews; or combined with other ingredients such as cheese or bacon.

ROAST TURNIPS OR SWEDES

500 g (1 lb) turnips or swedes, peeled and cut into 2.5 cm (1 in) pieces
dripping, lard or oil

Drop turnips or swedes into boiling water and cook for about 4 minutes. Drain and dry the pieces on paper towels. Have ready an ovenproof dish with enough hot dripping, lard or oil to come 1 cm (½ in) up sides. Put in dried vegetables and roast in top part of a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for about 40 minutes or until crisp and tender. Turn pieces several times during roasting. Serves 4.

NOTE: If you prefer to have the turnips or swedes soft and juicy, put the blanched pieces around the roasting joint of meat instead.

GLAZED BABY TURNIPS

500 g (1 lb) small whole baby turnips, peeled
2 teaspoons caster sugar
60 g (2 oz) butter

Cook turnips in boiling salted water until just tender. Drain off all but 2 tablespoons of liquid. Add sugar and cook over low heat until dissolved. Stir in butter, increase heat and cook until sugar and butter mixture begins to brown. Keep shaking pan so turnips are thoroughly coated in mixture, making sure it does not burn. Serve with roast duckling. Serves 4–6.

TURNIP CASSEROLE

3 cups diced cooked turnips or swedes (or a combination of both)
90 g (3 oz) butter
1 tablespoon sugar
½ teaspoon salt
freshly ground black pepper
1 cup fresh breadcrumbs
125g (4 oz) Gruyère cheese, diced

Mash the turnips or swedes and combine with 60 g (2 oz) butter, the sugar, salt, pepper, ¾ cup breadcrumbs and the cheese. Turn mixture into a buttered 4-cup ovenproof dish, top with remaining breadcrumbs and pour over remaining butter, melted. Bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for about 20 minutes or until top is browned. Serves 4–6.

TURNIPS IN BUTTER

500 g (1 lb) turnips, peeled
about 60 g (2 oz) butter
freshly ground black pepper

Cut turnips into wedges, quarters or thick slices.

Cook in boiling lightly salted water for 10–15 minutes or until tender. Drain and cool. Heat butter in a frying pan and brown turnips on all sides, a few at a time. Do not crowd the pan. Season with salt and pepper, remove to a heated serving dish and keep warm while browning remaining turnips, adding more butter when necessary. Serves 4.

TURNIPS IN SOUR CREAM

4 turnips, peeled and diced
2 teaspoons caraway seeds
¼ cup sour light cream
paprika
lemon juice

Cook turnips in boiling salted water, with caraway seeds, for 5 minutes. Drain off water, then add sour cream. Heat through gently for a few minutes. Sprinkle with paprika and a little lemon juice and serve hot. Serves 4.

MASHED SWEDES

500 g (1 lb) swedes, peeled and cubed
2 medium potatoes, peeled and cubed
30 g (1 oz) butter
¼ cup cream
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Put swedes and potatoes in a saucepan of cold salted water, bring to the boil and boil until tender. Drain, and mash well, purée in a food processor or push through a sieve. Return the purée to the cleaned saucepan and place over low heat. Beat in butter and cream, season with salt and plenty of black pepper to taste and serve very hot. Serves 4–6.

TURNOVER

A square or circle of pastry folded over a filling. It is quicker and easier to make than a pie, is portable and is a treat for many occasions. Serve turnovers, large or small, sweet or savoury, as a main course or dessert, for picnics, packed lunches or as nibbles with drinks.

Use plain or sweet shortcrust pastry, cream cheese or sour cream pastry, commercial or homemade flaky pastry or, speediest of all, frozen ready-rolled sheets of puff pastry. Turnovers can be baked or deep-fried.

BASIC TURNOVERS

Fillings must be completely cold when the pastry is folded around them.

1 quantity Plain or Sweet Shortcrust Pastry, Cream Cheese Pastry, Sour Cream Pastry or Rough Puff Pastry (see Pastry), or 1 × 375 g (12 oz) packet frozen puff pastry, thawed
filling of your choice (see recipe)
lightly beaten egg or egg white
caster sugar (for sweet turnovers only)

Roll out dough 5 mm (¼ in) thick and cut it into squares or circles of desired size. Mound chosen cold filling in centre of one-half of each piece of pastry (a triangular half for squares). Do not overfill; use about 1½ tablespoons filling for 10 cm (4 in) turnovers, 1 tablespoon filling for 8 cm (3 in) turnovers. Brush edges with beaten egg or egg white, fold other half over and press edges to seal. If using rough puff pastry, lightly tap cut edges. If using shortcrust, cream cheese or sour cream pastry, press round sealed edges with tines of a fork or point of a teaspoon for a decorative effect. Place turnovers on greased baking trays and chill for 20 minutes. Brush savoury turnovers with beaten egg; sweet ones with beaten egg white, then sprinkle over caster sugar.

Cut 2 or 3 slits in tops to allow steam to escape and bake in a preheated oven until pastry is golden-brown. Bake shortcrust, rough puff or puff pastry turnovers at 230°C/450°F and cream cheese or sour cream pastry turnovers at 200°C/400°F.

Turnovers may also be deep-fried. Shape as described above, but do not cut slits in pastry. Chill for 20 minutes. Heat oil in a deep-fryer until a small piece of pastry will brown in 1 minute. Place turnovers in a frying basket, fry for about 5 minutes or until golden, then drain on crumpled paper towels and serve hot. Makes about 12.

SAVOURY FILLINGS FOR BASIC TURNOVERS CHEESE AND TOMATO: Peel, seed and chop 2 large tomatoes and mix together well with 1 tablespoon fresh breadcrumbs, 4 tablespoons grated cheese, 1 tablespoon grated onion, 1 beaten egg, salt and pepper.

SAVOURY MINCE: Chop 1 small onion and fry, without extra fat, with 250 g (8 oz) hamburger mince, breaking the meat down with a fork. When meat has changed colour, sprinkle with 2 teaspoons flour and stir until brown. Add ¼ cup water or beef stock, ¼ teaspoon Worcestershire sauce, 1 teaspoon tomato sauce, salt and pepper. Stir until thickened. 2 teaspoons chopped parsley or other fresh herbs, a pinch dried herbs, or ½ small carrot, grated, may be added. Cover and simmer for 10 minutes, then cool.

COOKED OR CANNED FISH, MEAT OR CHICKEN: Flake or chop finely and mix with your choice of chopped tomato, celery, herbs, green pepper, grated onion, mustard or grated lemon rind. Add just enough chutney, cream, plain yogurt, mayonnaise, gravy or any suitable sauce you may have to moisten slightly. Season well with salt and pepper. Half a thick slice of the softer type of Continental sausage, spread with Dijon mustard, is excellent too, or, for tiny party turnovers, rolled, stuffed anchovy seasoned with pepper and a few drops of lemon juice.

VEGETABLE: Sliced mushrooms or chopped cooked vegetables are good mixed with chopped herbs or grated cheese and seasoned well with salt and pepper. Moisten slightly, as for meat fillings, if needed.

SWEET FILLINGS FOR BASIC TURNOVERS FRUIT: Use apples or pears, stewed or thinly sliced and sprinkled with sugar and lemon juice; or use berries or other fresh or canned fruits. Drain canned fruits well.

DRIED FRUIT: Use fruit mincemeat or raisins, sultanas or mixed dried fruit, sprinkled with brown sugar and lemon juice.

CREAM CHEESE OR RICOTTA: Use cream cheese, or ricotta cheese mixed with a little cream. Sweeten to taste with brown or white sugar, then add your choice of flavourings: ground cinnamon, cardamom or mixed spice, brandy or rum, chopped dried or glacé fruits, grated orange or lemon rind.

JAM OR LEMON CHEESE: Use a good berry jam, apricot jam (which may be mixed with slivered almonds), marmalade sprinkled with cinnamon or a few drops of orange liqueur, or lemon cheese.

PORK TURNOVERS

These are good hot or cold.

60 g (2 oz) butter
1 large onion, finely chopped
2 tablespoons flour
¾ cup warm milk
¼ cup cream
1 cup finely chopped cooked pork
1 cooking apple, peeled, cored and chopped
grated rind 1 lemon
1 tablespoon lemon juice
½ teaspoon crumbled dried rosemary
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 quantity Plain Shortcrust Pastry made with 2 cups flour (see Variation)
beaten egg to glaze

Melt butter in a saucepan and cook onion gently until soft. Add flour, stir over low heat for 1 minute and remove from heat. Cool a little, then add milk, stirring until smoothly blended. Return to heat and stir until boiling. Add cream, pork, apple, lemon rind, lemon juice, rosemary, salt and pepper and mix well. Cool completely. Roll out dough 5 mm (¼ in) thick and cut into 8 × 10 cm (4 in) rounds. Divide filling among rounds, mounding it on one-half of each and leaving a margin for sealing. Brush edges with beaten egg and fold other halves over, pressing edges to seal and crimping with fingers and thumb. Chill for 20 minutes. Cut 2 slits in top of each turnover and glaze with beaten egg. Place on a greased baking tray and bake in a preheated very hot oven (230°C/450°F) for 15 minutes or until golden-brown. Makes 8.

SAUSAGE AND APPLE TURNOVERS

3 thick beef or pork sausages
1 tablespoon bacon fat or butter
1 large cooking apple, peeled, cored and finely chopped
nutmeg
3 teaspoons currants
2 teaspoons lemon juice
1 quantity Rich Shortcrust Pastry made with 2 cups flour (see Variation)
salt and freshly ground black pepper
beaten egg to glaze

Prick sausages all over, cover with cold water and bring to the boil. Simmer for 3 minutes, then drain, cool and skin. Heat bacon fat or butter in a frying pan and fry sausages until brown on all sides. Set aside to cool. Mix apple with nutmeg, currants and lemon juice. Roll out dough and cut 6 × 15 cm (6 in) rounds. Divide apple mixture among rounds, placing it on one side only and leaving a margin for sealing. Cut sausages in half and place on apple mixture. Season with salt and pepper. Brush edges of dough rounds with beaten egg and fold over, pressing edges to seal and crimping with fingers and thumb. Chill for 20 minutes. Brush tops with egg and cut 2 or 3 small slits in each turnover for steam to escape. Place on a greased baking tray and bake in a preheated hot oven (220°C/425°F) for 10 minutes, then lower heat to moderate (180°C/350°F) and bake for 20 minutes longer, covering turnovers with foil if pastry is browning too much. Makes 6.

APRICOT TURNOVERS

Pastry

1½ cups flour
90 g (3 oz) butter
1 teaspoon grated lemon rind
cup ground almonds
1 egg, beaten
1 egg white
caster sugar to glaze

Filling

125 g (4 oz) dried apricots
1 cinnamon stick
¼ cup sugar
2 teaspoons brandy or Grand Marnier

To make pastry, sift flour into a bowl and rub in butter until mixture resembles crumbs. Stir in lemon rind and almonds. Add egg and 1–2 teaspoons cold water, if necessary, to make a soft dough. Wrap in plastic wrap and chill for 1 hour.

To make filling, simmer apricots with cinnamon stick in water to cover until very soft. Add sugar, stir to dissolve and simmer for 10–15 minutes longer or until liquid is almost evaporated. Remove from heat, stir in brandy and cool completely. Roll out dough and cut 6 × 10 cm (4 in) rounds. Put a spoonful of filling on one side of each round, leaving a margin for sealing, and brush edges with egg white. Fold other sides over, pressing to seal, and mark edges with point of a teaspoon. Brush with egg white, sprinkle with caster sugar and cut 2 small slits in the top of each turnover. Chill for 20 minutes, then place on a greased baking tray and bake in a preheated hot oven (200°C/400°F) for 15 minutes or until the pastry is golden-brown. Serve warm, to accompany coffee, or with whipped cream as a dessert. Serves 6.

TZATZIKI

A refreshing Greek yogurt and cucumber dip to serve with triangles of toasted Lebanese bread, Melba toast, slices of French bread or crisp raw vegetables. Tzatziki is also used as a sauce to complement fried or grilled fish, lamb kebabs or any barbecued meats; or fold diced green pepper, celery, tomato and shallots through tzatziki, garnish with fresh coriander or black olives and serve as a refreshing summer salad.

TZATZIKI

1½ cups plain yogurt
1 medium green cucumber
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 large clove garlic, crushed
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon chopped fresh mint

Line a sieve with a double thickness of cheesecloth (or use a disposable cloth). Place over a bowl, spoon yogurt in and let it drain for 2 hours. Meanwhile, peel cucumber thinly with a vegetable peeler so that some of the green under the skin is left. Cut lengthways in half, scoop out seeds and grate flesh, or chop very finely. Place in a sieve and leave for 20 minutes to drain off excess juice. Combine drained yogurt, cucumber, lemon juice and garlic in a bowl and season with salt and pepper. Fold in half the mint and sprinkle the rest over the top. Makes about 2 cups.