6Drinking & Nightlife

As long as there's been a city, Londoners have loved to drink – and, as history shows, often immoderately. The pub is the hub of social life and, despite depleting numbers, there's always one near at hand. When the sun shines, drinkers spill out into the streets, parks and squares.

Boho Soho is undoubtedly the heart of bar culture, with enough variety to cater to all tastes. Still great for grungy boozers and rock kids, Camden has lost ground on the bohemian-cool front to Hoxton and Shoreditch.

Neighbourhoods such as Clerkenwell, Islington, Southwark, Notting Hill and Earl's Court are bursting at their beer-addled seams with pub-crawl potential.

Mirroring its worker-base, the City is a Monday to Friday spot and several of its historic pubs shut up shop at weekends or on Sundays. South London has some fine historic haunts near the river.

The price of beer in pubs is enough to drive you to drink – expect to pay upwards of £3.25 per pint of lager.

The volume and variety of nightclubs in London is staggering. Megaclubs are scattered throughout town wherever there's a venue big enough, cheap enough or quirky enough. The big nights are Friday and Saturday, although some of the most cutting-edge sessions are midweek. Admission prices vary widely; it's often cheaper to arrive early or prebook tickets.

West End

oGordon’s Wine BarBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.gordonswinebar.com; 47 Villiers St, WC2; h11am-11pm Mon-Sat, noon-10pm Sun; tEmbankment)

What's not to love about this cavernous, candlelit wine cellar that's been practically unchanged for the last 120 years? Get here before the office crowd (generally around 6pm) or forget about getting a table.

OpiumCOCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7734 7276; www.opiumchinatown.com; 15-16 Gerrard St, W1; h5pm-midnight Mon-Wed, to 2am Thu-Sat, noon-midnight Sun)

Towering above Chinatown's main drag, this self-proclaimed 'cocktail and dim sum parlour' could easily pass as an opium den-cum-brothel, with a jade-coloured door leading to a scarlet-drenched interior and byzantine cocktails.

SpuntinoBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.spuntino.co.uk; 61 Rupert St, W1; mains £6-10; hnoon-midnight Mon-Wed, to 1am Thu-Sat, to 11pm Sun; tPiccadilly Circus)

Speakeasy decor meets creative fusion American–Italian food at Rupert St cool customer Spuntino. Grab a seat at the bar or one of the counters at the back, but put aside time to queue (no reservations and no phone).

French HouseBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.frenchhousesoho.com; 49 Dean St, W1; hnoon-11pm; tLeicester Sq)

French House is Soho’s legendary boho boozer with a history to match: the meeting place of the Free French Forces during WWII, De Gaulle is said to have knocked back shots here, while Dylan Thomas, Peter O’Toole, Brendan Behan and Francis Bacon all conspired to drink the place dry. The no-mobile phones, no-music and no-TV ruling only amplifies the mystique.

Princess LouisePUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 208 High Holborn, WC1; h11.30am-11pm; tHolborn)

This late 19th-century Victorian boozer is arguably London's most beautiful pub. Spectacularly decorated with fine tiles, etched mirrors, plasterwork and a gorgeous central horseshoe bar, it gets packed with the after-work crowd.

TerroirsWINE BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.terroirswinebar.com; 5 William IV St, WC2; hnoon-11pm Mon-Sat; tCharing Cross Road)

Fab two-floor spot for a pre- or post-theatre glass or some expertly created charcuterie, with informative staff, affordable £10 lunch specials, a convivial atmosphere and a breathtaking list of organic wines.

Lamb & FlagPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.lambandflagcoventgarden.co.uk; 33 Rose St, WC2; h11am-11pm Mon-Sat, noon-10.30pm Sun; tCovent Garden)

Everyone's Covent Garden 'find', this historic pub is often as jammed with punters as it is packed with history. Built in 1623 and formerly called the 'Bucket of Blood', inside it's all brass fittings and creaky wooden floors.

Galvin at WindowsBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.galvinatwindows.com; London Hilton on Park Lane, 28th fl, 22 Park Lane, W1; h11am-1am Mon-Wed, to 3am Thu-Sat, to 11pm Sun; tHyde Park Corner)

Be stunned by both the views and the cocktail prices at this 28th-floor eyrie at the Hilton, overlooking Hyde Park.

LAB COCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7437 7820; www.labbaruk.com; 12 Old Compton St, W1; h4pm-midnight Mon-Sat, to 10.30pm Sun; tLeicester Sq, Tottenham Court Rd)

The decor of the London Academy of Bartending has been left behind, but a frisson of creativity runs through the cocktail menu and LAB's mixologists can have your tastebuds singing.

The City

oVertigo 42BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7877 7842; www.vertigo42.co.uk; Tower 42, 25 Old Broad St, EC2; hnoon-3.45pm Mon-Fri & 5-11pm Mon-Sat; tLiverpool St)

Book a two-hour slot in this 42nd-floor champagne bar (no shorts, caps or flip-flops) with vertiginous views across London from the former National Westminster Tower. Reservations only.

MadisonCOCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.madisonlondon.net; Roof Terrace, One New Change, EC4; h10am-midnight Mon-Sat, to 8pm Sun; tSt Paul's)

Perched atop One New Change with a full-frontal view of St Paul's and beyond, Madison offers one of the largest public open-air roof terraces you'll ever encounter. There's a full restaurant on one side and a cocktail bar with outdoor seating on the other.

Ye Olde Cheshire CheesePUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Wine Office Court, 145 Fleet St, EC4; h11am-11pm Mon-Fri, noon-11pm Sat; tChancery Lane)

Rebuilt six years after the Great Fire, this hoary pub was popular with Dr Johnson, Thackeray, Dickens and the visiting Mark Twain. Touristy but always atmospheric and enjoyable for a pub meal.

South Bank

oRakePUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %20 7407 0557; www.uttobeer.co.uk; 14 Winchester Walk, SE1; hnoon-11pm Mon-Sat, to 10pm Sun; tLondon Bridge)

The resourceful Rake crams a range of over 100 beers, bitters and real ales into pea-sized premises. There's valuable elbow space on the bamboo-decorated decking outside.

George InnPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %20 7407 2056; www.nationaltrust.org.uk/george-inn; 77 Borough High St, SE1 1NH; h11am-11pm; tLondon Bridge)

This glorious old boozer is London's last surviving galleried coaching inn, dating from 1676 and now a National Trust property. Getting a mention in Dickens' Little Dorrit, it also stands on the site of the Tabard Inn, where the pilgrims in Chaucer's Canterbury Tales gathered before legging it to Canterbury.

Ministry of SoundCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.ministryofsound.com; 103 Gaunt St, SE1; admission £16-25; h11pm-6.30am Fri & Sat; tElephant & Castle)

Where the global brand started, it's London's most famous club and still packs in a diverse crew with big local and international names.

GAY & LESBIAN LONDON

The West End, particularly Soho, is the visible centre of gay and lesbian London, with venues clustered around Old Compton St and its surrounds. However, Soho doesn't hold a monopoly on gay life. Vauxhall is a hub for the hirsute, hefty and generally harder-edged sections of the community. The railway arches are filled with dance clubs, leather bars and a sauna. Clapham (South London), Earl's Court (West London), Islington (North London) and Limehouse (East End) have their own miniscenes.

Generally, London is a safe place for lesbians and gays. It's rare to encounter any problem with sharing rooms or holding hands in the inner city, although it would pay to keep your wits about you at night and be conscious of your surroundings.

Some venues to get you started include the following:

• George & Dragon ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 2 Hackney Rd, E2; h6-11pm; tOld St) Appealing corner pub where the crowd is often as eclectically furnished as the venue.
• She Soho (%0207 437 4303; www.she-soho.com; ​23a Old Compton St, W1D; h4-11.30pm Mon-Thu, to 12.30am Fri & Sat, to 10.30pm Sun; tLeicester Square) Soho Lesbian bar with DJs at weekends, comedy and live music.
• Duke of Wellington ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 77 Wardour St, W1; hnoon-11pm Sun-Wed, to midnight Thu-Sat; tLeicester Sq) Friendly hang-out for the 30-somethings (and above) gay set.
• Edge ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.edgesoho.co.uk; 11 Soho Sq, W1; h3pm-1am Mon-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat, to 11.30pm Sun; tTottenham Court Rd) London's largest gay bar, hopping nightly across four floors.
• Heaven ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.heavennightclub-london.com; Villiers St, WC2; h11pm-5am Mon, Thu & Fri, 10pm-5am Sat; tEmbankment, Charing Cross) Perennially popular gay club under the arches beneath Charing Cross station with fab club nights.
• RVT ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.rvt.org.uk; 372 Kennington Lane, SE11; h7pm-midnight Mon, Wed & Thu, 6pm-midnight Tue, 9pm-2am Fri & Sat, 2pm-midnight Sun; tVauxhall) Much-loved pub with crazy cabaret and drag acts. Head under the arches from Vauxhall tube station onto Kennington Lane, where you'll see the tavern immediately to your left.
• Two Brewers ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.the2brewers.com; 114 Clapham High St, SW4; admission after 10pm £3-6; h4pm-2am Sun-Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat; tClapham Common) Popular bar with regular acts and a nightclub out the back. From the tube station, head north along Clapham High St (away from the common).
• Village ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.village-soho.co.uk; 81 Wardour St, W1; h4pm-1am Mon-Sat, to 11.30pm Sun; tPiccadilly Circus) Glitzy gay bar with excellent, lengthy happy hours.

Chelsea & Kensington

oQueen’s ArmsPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.thequeensarmskensington.co.uk; 30 Queen’s Gate Mews, SW7; hnoon-11pm; tGloucester Rd)

Just around the corner from the Royal Albert Hall, this godsend of a blue-grey painted pub in an adorable cobbled mews setting off bustling Queen’s Gate beckons with a cosy interior and a right royal selection of ales and ciders on tap.

Bloomsbury & St Pancras

oQueen’s LarderPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.queenslarder.co.uk; 1 Queen Sq, WC1; h11.30am-11pm Mon-Sat, noon-10.30pm Sun; tRussell Sq)

This small and supremely cosy pub in a gorgeous square gets its name from Queen Charlotte, wife of 'Mad' King George III, who rented part of the pub's cellar to store special foods for him while he was undergoing treatment nearby. Poets Sylvia Plath and Ted Hughes married in the church opposite.

Newman ArmsPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.newmanarms.co.uk; 23 Rathbone St, W1; hnoon-11.30pm Mon-Fri; tGoodge St)

One of the few family-run pubs in central London, this tiny one-room affair with upstairs pie room packs a big history; George Orwell and Dylan Thomas drank here and a scene from Michael Powell's Peeping Tom was filmed in the passageway alongside the pub in 1960.

69 Colebrooke RowCOCKTAIL BAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; 69 Colebrooke Row, N1; h5pm-midnight Sun-Wed, to 1am Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; tAngel)

London cocktail lovers gravitate to this popular bar run by mixer-maestro Tony Conigliaro, but reserve ahead as seats go faster than a down-in-one. The seasonal drinks menu is steeped in ambitious flavours and blends, with classic drinks for less adventurous palates. Classes are also run in cocktail mixing (£40).

Big Chill HouseDJ BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.wearebigchill.com; 257-259 Pentonville Rd, N1; h9am-midnight Mon-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat, 11am-midnight Sun; W; tKing's Cross St Pancras)

Come the weekend, the only remotely chilled-out space in this busy bar, split over two levels, is its first-rate and generously proportioned rooftop terrace.

Draft HouseBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.drafthouse.co.uk; 43 Goodge St, W1; hnoon-11pm Mon-Sat; tGoodge Street)

You can line your tummy with ace food, but Draft House is all about the beer choice it crams into its pint-sized premises. This is a public house for ale aficionados, where you can corner a Flying Dog Gonzo Imperial Porter or a head-spinning Samichlaus 14%.

Notting Hill, Bayswater & Paddington

oChurchill ArmsPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.churchillarmskensington.co.uk; 119 Kensington Church St, W8; h11am-11pm Mon-Wed, to midnight Thu-Sat, noon-10.30pm Sun; W; tNotting Hill Gate)

Adorned with a gob-smacking array of flower baskets and Union Jacks, this magnificent old boozer is a London classic, famed for its atmosphere, Winston memorabilia, knick-knacks and attached conservatory serving fine Thai food (mains from £7.50).

Windsor CastlePUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.thewindsorcastlekensington.co.uk; 114 Campden Hill Rd, W11; hnoon-11pm; W; tNotting Hill Gate)

A fine pub with oak partitions separating the original bars at the crest of Campden Hill Rd. One of the loveliest walled gardens of any pub in London is tucked away through the side entrance. The bones of Thomas Paine (Rights of Man author) are rumoured to be in the cellar.

Earl of LonsdalePUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 277-281 Portobello Rd, W11; hnoon-11pm; tNotting Hill Gate, Ladbroke Grove)

Named after the bon vivant founder of the AA (Automobile Association), the Earl is peaceful during the day, with a mixture of old biddies and young hipsters inhabiting the reintroduced snugs. There's a fab backroom with sofas, banquettes and open fires, and a fine beer garden.

Marylebone

PurlCOCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7935 0835; www.purl-london.com; 50-54 Blandford St, W1; h5-11.30pm; tBaker St, Bond St)

Coined after an old English early morning drink of warm beer, gin, wormwood and spices, Purl is all low lighting, subterranean mellowness and some magnificently presented and unusual cocktails. If you're with a group, book an alcove table. On the musical menu is swing and jazz. Reserve ahead.

ArtesianBAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7636 1000; www.artesian-bar.co.uk; Langham Hotel, 1c Portland Pl, W1; h11am-2am Mon-Sat, to midnight Sun; tOxford Circus)

For doses of colonial glamour with a touch of China, the sumptuous bar at the Langham hits the mark. Rum is the speciality here – award-winning cocktails (from £14) are concocted from the 60 varieties on offer.

Camden Town

Lock TavernPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.lock-tavern.com; 35 Chalk Farm Rd, NW1; hnoon-midnight Mon-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat, to 11pm Sun; tChalk Farm)

The archetypal Camden pub, the Lock has both a rooftop terrace and a beer garden and attracts an interesting crowd with its mix of ready conviviality and regular live music.

Clerkenwell & Farringdon

oJerusalem TavernPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.stpetersbrewery.co.uk; 55 Britton St, EC1; h11am-11pm Mon-Fri; W; tFarringdon)

Pick a wood-panelled cubbyhole to park yourself in at this tiny 1720 coffee shop–turned-inn (named after the Priory of St John of Jerusalem) and select from St Peter's fantastic beers and ales, brewed in North Suffolk.

FabricCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.fabriclondon.com; 77a Charterhouse St, EC1; admission £8-18; h10pm-6am Fri, 11pm-8am Sat, 11pm-6am Sun; tFarringdon)

Consistently rated by DJs as one of the world's greatest, Fabric's three dance floors occupy a converted meat cold-store opposite the Smithfield meat market. Friday's FabricLive offers drum and bass, breakbeat and hip hop, Saturdays see house, techno and electronica, while hedonistic Sundays are delivered by the Wetyourself crew.

Hoxton, Shoreditch & Spitalfields

oBrewDogBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7729 8476; www.brewdog.com; 51-55 Bethnal Green Rd, EC1; hnoon-midnight Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat; W; tShoreditch High St)

Ale aficionados can migrate to this bar, which overflows with a seasoned and expertly selected choice of cask and bottled beers. There's a strong showing of microbrewery beers, including the Camden Town Brewery and the Redchurch Brewery.

Book ClubBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7684 8618; www.wearetbc.com; 100 Leonard St, EC2A; h8am-midnight Mon-Wed, to 2am Thu & Fri, 10am-2am Sat & Sun; W; tOld St)

A cerebral/creative vibe animates this fantastic one-time Victorian warehouse in Shoreditch that hosts cultural events (life drawing, workshops, dance lessons) and DJ nights to complement the drinking, enthusiastic ping-pong-playing and pool-playing shenanigans. Early birds can catch breakfast from 8am weekdays and food continues through the day.

Ten BellsPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Commercial & Fournier Sts, E1; h11am-11pm Mon-Sat, noon-10.30pm Sun; tLiverpool St)

The most famous Jack the Ripper pub, Ten Bells was patronised by his last victim before her grisly end, and possibly by the slayer himself.

Plastic PeopleCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.plasticpeople.co.uk; 147-149 Curtain Rd, EC2; admission £5-10; h10pm-2am Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat; tOld St)

Taking the directive 'underground club' literally, Plastic People provides a low-ceilinged subterranean den of dubsteppy, wonky, funky, no-frills fun times.

XOYOCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.xoyo.co.uk; 32-37 Cowper St, EC2; hhours vary; tOld St)

This excellent Shoreditch warehouse club throws together a pulsingly popular mix of gigs, club nights and art events.

CargoCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.cargo-london.com; 83 Rivington St, EC2; admission free-£16; hnoon-1am Mon-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat, to midnight Sun; tOld St)

A popular club with a courtyard where you can simultaneously enjoy big sounds and the great outdoors. Also hosts live bands.

Happiness ForgetsCOCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7613 0325; www.happinessforgets.com; 8-9 Hoxton Sq, N1; h5.30-11pm; dHoxton, tOld St)

Take the stairs down to this trendy basement nook where bar staff know their cocktails, and the seductive, subdued ambience hits all the right moody notes (short hours though).

Worship St Whistling ShopCOCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7247 0015; www.whistlingshop.com; 63 Worship St, EC2; h5pm-midnight Tue, to 1am Wed & Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; tOld St)

This drinking den's busy master mixologists are content to visit the more unexplored outer regions of cocktail chemistry and aromatic science, concocted within the on-site lab and its rotary evaporators. Many ingredients are made in-house.

Sager & WildeWINE BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.sagerandwilde.com; 193 Hackney Rd, E2; h5-11pm Mon-Fri, 2-11pm Sat & Sun; W; tHoxton)

Slightly beyond the Hoxton action along Hackney Rd, this fresh wine bar is a neat, unpretentious and good-looking addition to London drinking culture, with a modish bar bites menu, eye-catching iron- and glass-bricks bar counter and excellent wines by the glass and bottle.

Greenwich

Greenwich UnionPUB

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.greenwichunion.com; 56 Royal Hill, SE10; hnoon-11pm Mon-Fri, 11am-11pm Sat & Sun; dDLR Cutty Sark)

The award-winning and handsome Greenwich Union peddles six or seven local microbrewery beers, including raspberry and wheat varieties, and a strong list of ales and bottled international brews. Sink into a distressed leather armchair or find space in the conservatory and beer garden at the rear.

Cutty Sark TavernPUB

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.cuttysarktavern.co.uk; 4-6 Ballast Quay, SE10; h11am-11pm Mon-Sat, noon-10.30pm Sun; dDLR Cutty Sark)

Housed in a delightful bow-windowed, wood-beamed Georgian building facing the Thames, this historic gem has half a dozen cask-conditioned ales on tap, and riverside seating outside.

Hampstead & Highgate

Holly BushPUB

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.hollybushhampstead.co.uk; 22 Holly Mount, NW3; hnoon-11pm; tHampstead)

Dating from the early 19th century, this beautiful pub has a secluded hilltop location, open fires in winter and a knack for making you stay a bit longer than you had intended. It's above Heath St, reached via the Holly Bush Steps.

Outside Central London

White CrossPUB

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.thewhitecrossrichmond.com; Water Lane, TW9; h10am-11pm; tRichmond)

The riverside location and fine food and ales make this bay-windowed pub on the site of a former friary a winner. There are entrances for low and high tides, but when the river is at its highest, Cholmondeley Walk running along the Thames floods and the pub is out of bounds to those not willing to wade. Wellies are provided.

Quirky detail: there’s a tiny working fireplace under the window on your right as you enter.

3Entertainment

From West End luvvies to East End geezers, Londoners have always loved a spectacle. With bear-baiting and public executions long on the no-no list, they've fallen back on what London does well: some of the world's best theatre and live-music choices.

For a comprehensive list of what to do on any given night, check out free weekly listings mag Time Out and listings in the Evening Standard and Metro.

Theatre

London is a world capital for theatre across the spectrum from mammoth musicals to thoughtful drama for the highbrow crowd. Blockbuster musicals run and run, with mindboggling longevity. Les Misérables and Phantom of the Opera lead the pack, but the theatrical biscuit goes to Agatha Christie's The Mousetrap, keeping audiences guessing since 1952.

On performance days, you can buy half-price tickets for West End productions (cash only) from the official agency TKTS ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.tkts.co.uk; Leicester Sq, WC2; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat, noon-4pm Sun; tLeicester Sq) on the southern side of Leicester Sq. The booth is the one with the clocktower; beware of touts selling dodgy tickets.

The term 'West End' – as with Broadway – generally refers to the big-money productions such as musicals, but also includes other heavyweights. Off West End – including venues such as Almeida and Young Vic – is where you'll generally find the most original works.

National TheatreTHEATRE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7452 3000; www.nationaltheatre.org.uk; South Bank, SE1; tWaterloo)

Flagship South Bank venue with three theatres and excellent-value tickets for classic and contemporary productions.

Royal Court TheatreTHEATRE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7565 5000; www.royalcourttheatre.com; Sloane Sq, SW1; tSloane Sq)

Progressive theatre and champion of new talent.

Old VicTHEATRE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0844 871 7628; www.oldvictheatre.com; The Cut, SE1; tWaterloo)

Kevin Spacey continues his run as artistic director (and occasional performer) at this venue, which features classic, highbrow drama.

Donmar WarehouseTHEATRE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0844 871 7624; www.donmarwarehouse.com; 41 Earlham St, WC2; tCovent Garden)

A 251-seat theatre that has forged itself a West End reputation.

AlmeidaTHEATRE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7359 4404; www.almeida.co.uk; Almeida St, N1; tHighbury & Islington)

A plush Islington venue that can be relied on for an essential program of imaginative theatre.

Young VicTHEATRE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7922 2922; www.youngvic.org; 66 The Cut, SE1; tWaterloo, tSouthwark)

One of the capital’s most respected theatre troupes, the Young Vic stages winning performances.

Live Music

It goes without saying that London is a crucible of musical talent, with young bands gigging around venues citywide.

oVortex Jazz ClubJAZZ

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.vortexjazz.co.uk; 11 Gillet St, N16; g73, dDalston Kingsland, Dalston Junction)

Vortex has an outstanding program of musicians from the UK, US, Europe, Africa and beyond, and hosts jazz musicians, singers and songwriters. It’s a small venue, so make sure you book if there is an act you particularly fancy.

oO2 Academy BrixtonLIVE MUSIC

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.o2academybrixton.co.uk; 211 Stockwell Rd, SW9; tBrixton)

This Grade II–listed art-deco venue is always winning awards for 'best live venue' (something to do with the artfully sloped floor, perhaps) and hosts big-name acts in a relatively intimate setting (5000 capacity).

KOKOLIVE MUSIC

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.koko.uk.com; 1a Camden High St, NW1; h7-11pm Sun-Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat; tMornington Cres)

Occupying the grand Camden Palace theatre, Koko hosts live bands most nights and the regular Club NME (New Musical Express; £5) on Friday.

12 Bar ClubLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.12barclub.com; Denmark St, WC2; admission £6-10; h7pm-3am Mon-Sat, to 12.30am Sun; tTottenham Court Rd)

Small and intimate with a rough-and-ready feel, the 12 Bar is a favourite live-music venue, with anything from solo acts to bands performing nightly. The emphasis is on songwriting and the music is very much indie rock, with anything from folk and jazzy influences to full-on punk and metal sounds.

Dublin CastleLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7485 1773; www.thedublincastle.com; 94 Parkway, NW1; tCamden Town)

There's live punk or alternative music most nights in this pub's back room (cover usually £6).

BarflyLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.mamacolive.com/thebarfly; 49 Chalk Farm Rd, NW1; gigs from £8, club nights £3-5; h7pm-3am Mon-Sat, to midnight Sun; tChalk Farm)

This grungy, indie-rock Camden venue hosts small-time artists looking for their big break. The Killers, Kasabian and Franz Ferdinand have all been on the billing. The lean is clearly towards rock from the US and UK, with alternative-music radio station Xfm hosting regular nights.

Ronnie Scott’sJAZZ

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7439 0747; www.ronniescotts.co.uk; 47 Frith St, W1; h6.30pm-3am Mon-Sat, to midnight Sun; tLeicester Sq, Tottenham Court Rd)

London's legendary jazz club has been pulling in jazz titans since 1959.

100 ClubLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7636 0933; www.the100club.co.uk; 100 Oxford St, W1; admission £8-20; hcheck website for gig times; tOxford Circus, Tottenham Court Rd)

Hosting live music for 70 years, this legendary London venue once showcased the Stones and was at the centre of the punk revolution. It now divides its time between jazz, rock and even a little classical and swing.

606 ClubBLUES, JAZZ

( GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7352 5953; www.606club.co.uk; 90 Lots Rd, SW10; music fee Sun-Thu £10, Fri & Sat £12; h7-11.15pm Sun-Thu, 8pm-12.30am Fri & Sat; tImperial Wharf)

Named after its old address on the King's Road, this fantastic tucked-away basement jazz club and restaurant gives centre stage to contemporary British-based jazz musicians nightly. To consume alcohol you'll need to dine to meet some rather antique licensing requirements. There's no entry charge, but a music fee will go on your food/drink bill. Booking advised.

The club is also open most Sundays from 12.30pm to 4.30pm.

RoundhouseLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.roundhouse.org.uk; Chalk Farm Rd, NW1; tChalk Farm)

Built in 1847 as a railway shed, Camden's Roundhouse has been an iconic concert venue since the 1960s (capacity 3300), hosting the likes of the Rolling Stones, Led Zeppelin and The Clash. Theatre and comedy are also staged.

Classical Music

With four world-class symphony orchestras, two opera companies, various smaller ensembles, brilliant venues, reasonable prices and high standards of performance, London is a classical capital. Keep an eye out for the free (or nearly so) lunchtime concerts held in many of the city's churches.

Royal Albert HallCONCERT VENUE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7589 8212, 0845 401 5045; www.royalalberthall.com; Kensington Gore, SW7; tSouth Kensington)

This landmark elliptical Victorian arena – classically based on a Roman ampitheatre – hosts classical concerts and contemporary artists, but is best known as the venue for the annual classical music festival, the Proms.

BarbicanPERFORMING ARTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7638 8891, 0845 121 6823; www.barbican.org.uk; Silk St, EC2; tBarbican)

Home to the excellent London Symphony Orchestra (www.lso.co.uk), this famously hulking complex has a rich program of film, music, theatre, art and dance, including concerts.

Southbank CentreCONCERT VENUE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7960 4200; www.southbankcentre.co.uk; Belvedere Rd, SE1; tWaterloo)

Home to the London Philharmonic Orchestra (www.lpo.co.uk), Sinfonietta (www.londonsinfonietta.org.uk) and the Philharmonia Orchestra (www.philharmonia.co.uk), among others, this centre hosts classical, opera, jazz and choral music in three premier venues: the Royal Festival Hall, the smaller Queen Elizabeth Hall and the Purcell Room.

Opera & Dance

Royal Opera HouseOPERA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7304 4000; www.roh.org.uk; Bow St, WC2; tickets £4-250; tCovent Garden)

Covent Garden is synonymous with opera thanks to this world-famous venue, home of the Royal Ballet, Britain's premier classical ballet company. Backstage tours take place three times a day on weekdays and five times on Saturdays (£8.50 to £12, book ahead).

Sadler’s WellsDANCE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0844 412 4300; www.sadlerswells.com; Rosebery Ave, EC1; tickets £10-49; tAngel)

A glittering modern venue that was, in fact, first established in the 17th century, Sadler's Wells has been given much credit for bringing modern dance to the mainstream.

London ColiseumOPERA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7845 9300; www.eno.org; St Martin's Lane, WC2; tLeicester Sq)

Home of the progressive English National Opera; the English National Ballet also performs here.

Comedy

When London's comics aren't being outrageously funny on TV, you might find them doing stand-up somewhere in your neighbourhood.

Comedy StoreCOMEDY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0844 871 7699; www.thecomedystore.co.uk; 1a Oxendon St, SW1; admission £16.50-26; tPiccadilly Circus)

One of London's first comedy clubs, featuring the capital's most famous improvisers, the Comedy Store Players, on Wednesdays (8pm) and Sundays (7.30pm).

Comedy CafeCOMEDY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7739 5706; www.comedycafe.co.uk; 68 Rivington St, EC2; admission free-£12; hWed-Sat; tOld St)

Have dinner and watch comedy; the free New Act Night on Wednesday is good for toe-curling entertainment.

Soho TheatreCOMEDY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7478 0100; www.sohotheatre.com; 21 Dean St, W1; £15-20; tTottenham Court Rd)

This is where grown-up comedians graduate to once crowds start paying attention.

Cinemas

Glitzy premieres usually take place in one of the mega multiplexes in Leicester Sq.

Electric CinemaCINEMA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7908 9696; www.electriccinema.co.uk; 191 Portobello Rd, W11; tickets £8-22.50; tLadbroke Grove)

Getting Londoners buzzing since 1911, the Electric can help you grab a glass of wine from the bar, head to your leather sofa and snuggle down for a flick.

BFI SouthbankCINEMA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020 7928 3232; www.bfi.org.uk; Belvedere Rd, SE1; tickets £8-12; h11am-11pm; tWaterloo)

A film-lover's fantasy, screening some 2000 flicks a year, from classics to foreign art-house. There's also the Mediatheque viewing stations, for exploring the British Film Institute's extensive archive of movies and watching whatever you like for free.

BFI IMAX CinemaCINEMA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0330 333 7878; www.odeon.co.uk/cinemas/bfi_imax; 1 Charlie Chaplin Walk, SE1; adult/child from £9.25/5.90; tWaterloo)

Watch 3D movies and cinema releases on the UK's biggest screen: 20m high (nearly five double-decker buses) and 26m wide.

Prince CharlesCINEMA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.princecharlescinema.com; 7 Leicester Pl, WC2; tickets £7.50-16; tLeicester Sq)

West End cinema ticket prices are eye-watering, so wait till the first-runs have finished and come here, central London's cheapest picturehouse. Completing the score are mini-festivals, old classics and sing-along screenings.

Football (Soccer)

As the capital of a football-mad nation, expect half of London to be watching the beautiful game during the cooler months.

The home ground for England's national football team, and the venue for the FA Cup final, is Wembley Stadium ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0844 980 8001; www.wembleystadium.com; tours adult/child £16/9).

Tickets for Premier League football matches are like gold dust, but you could try your luck.

Contacts for London's leading football clubs include the following:

ArsenalSTADIUM

(www.arsenal.com/tours; 75 Drayton Park, N5; self-guided tour adult/child £17.50/9; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat, to 4pm Sun; tArsenal, Finsbury Park, Highbury & Islington)

Arsenal Emirates Stadium is the third largest in England. Daily tours available.

ChelseaSTADIUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0871 984 1955; www.chelseafc.com; Stamford Bridge, Fulham Rd, SW6; stadium tours & museum adult/child £20/13; hmuseum 9.30am-5pm; tFulham Broadway)

FulhamSTADIUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.fulhamfc.com; Craven Cottage, Stevenage Rd, SW6; tours adult/child £12/9; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri; tPutney Bridge)

Tottenham HotspurSTADIUM

(www.tottenhamhotspur.com; White Hart Lane, 748 High Rd, N17; tour adult/child £20/9; dWhite Hart Lane)

West HamSTADIUM

(www.whufc.com; Boleyn Ground, Green Street, Upton Park, E13; tUpton Park)

In 2016, the Olympic Stadium will become the new home of West Ham United FC.

Rugby

Twickenham ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.rfu.com; Rugby Rd, TW1; dTwickenham) is the home of English rugby union, but as with football, tickets for international matches are difficult to get unless you have contacts. The ground also has the World Rugby Museum (%020-8892 8877; www.rfu.com; adult/child £8/6; h10am-5pm Tue-Sat, 11am-5pm Sun), which can be combined with a tour of the stadium (adult/child £16/10, bookings recommended).

Cricket & Tennis

Cricket is as popular as ever in the home land. Test matches take place at two venerable grounds: Lord's Cricket Ground (which also hosts tours) and the Brit Oval ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0871 246 1100; www.kiaoval.com; Surrey County Cricket Club, Kennington Oval, SE11; tOval). Tickets cost from £20 to £80, but if you're a fan it's worth it.

The Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Championships is one of the biggest events on the city's summer calendar.

Lord’s Cricket GroundCRICKET GROUND

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.lords.org; St John's Wood Rd, NW8; tours adult/child £18/12; tSt John's Wood)

The next best thing to watching a test at Lord's is the absorbingly anecdotal 100-minute tour of the ground and facilities, held when there's no play. It takes in the famous (members only) Long Room and the MCC Museum, featuring evocative memorabilia, including the tiny Ashes trophy.

ROLL OUT THE BARROW

London has over 350 markets selling everything from antiques and curios to flowers and fish. Some, such as Camden and Portobello Rd, are tourist-packed, while others are just for locals.

Columbia Road Flower MarketMARKET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Columbia Rd, E2; h8am-3pm Sun; tOld St)

The best place for East End barrow boy banter ('We got flowers cheap enough for ya muvver-in-law's grave'). Unmissable.

Borough MarketMARKET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.boroughmarket.org.uk; 8 Southwark St, SE1; h11am-5pm Thu, noon-6pm Fri, 8am-5pm Sat; tLondon Bridge)

A farmers market sometimes called London's Larder, it has been here in some form since the 13th century. It's wonderfully atmospheric and you'll find everything from organic falafel to boars' heads.

Maltby Street MarketMARKET

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.maltby.st; Maltby St, SE1; h10am-4pm Sat; tLondon Bridge)S

Hailed as the new Borough Market, Maltby Street is small, delicious and a joy to spend a Saturday afternoon in.

Camden MarketMARKET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Camden High St, NW1; h10am-6pm; tCamden Town, Chalk Farm)

London's most famous market is actually a series of markets spread along Camden High St and Chalk Farm Rd. Despite a major fire in 2008, the Camden Lock Market ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.camdenlockmarket.com; 54-56 Camden Lock Pl, NW1; h10am-6pm; tCamden Town, Chalk Farm) and Camden Stables Market ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Chalk Farm Rd, NW1; h10am-6pm; tChalk Farm) are still the places for punk fashion, cheap food, hippy chic and a whole lotta craziness.

oPortobello Road MarketCLOTHING, ANTIQUES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.portobellomarket.org; Portobello Rd, W10; h8am-6.30pm Mon-Wed, Fri & Sat, to 1pm Thu; tNotting Hill Gate, Ladbroke Grove)

One of London's most famous street markets, in Notting Hill. New and vintage clothes are its main attraction, with antiques at its south end and food at the north.

Old Spitalfields MarketMARKET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.oldspitalfieldsmarket.com; Commercial St, btwn Brushfield & Lamb Sts, E1; h10am-4pm Sun-Fri; tLiverpool St)

It's housed in a Victorian warehouse, but the market's been here since 1638. Thursdays are devoted to antiques and vintage clothes and Fridays to fashion and art, but Sunday's the big day, with a bit of everything.

Broadway MarketMARKET

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.broadwaymarket.co.uk; London Fields, E8; h9am-5pm Sat; tBethnal Green)

Graze from the organic food stalls, choose a cooked meal and then sample one of the 200 beers on offer at the neighbouring Dove Freehouse. It's a bit of a schlep from the tube.

Brixton VillageMARKET

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.brixtonmarket.net; Atlantic Rd; h10.30am-6pm Mon-Wed, to 10pm Thu-Sat, 10.30am-5pm Sun; tBrixton)

Revitalised and hip transformation of Granville Arcade near Brixton Market, with a host of inventively inclined shops and fantastic restaurants and cafes.

Sunday UpMarketCLOTHING, ACCESSORIES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.sundayupmarket.co.uk; Old Truman Brewery, Brick Lane, E1; h10am-5pm Sun; tLiverpool St)

Handmade handbags, jewellery, new and vintage clothes and shoes, plus food if you need refuelling.

Brick Lane MarketMARKET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.visitbricklane.org; Brick Lane, E1; h8am-2pm Sun; tLiverpool St)

An East End pearler, this is a sprawling bazaar featuring everything from fruit and veggies to paintings and bric-a-brac.

Camden Passage MarketANTIQUES

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.camdenpassageislington.co.uk; Camden Passage, N1; h8am-2pm Wed, to 5pm Sat; tAngel)

Get your fill of antiques and trinkets galore. Not in Camden (despite the name).

Greenwich MarketMARKET

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.greenwichmarketlondon.com; College Approach, SE10; h10am-5.30pm; dDLR Cutty Sark)

Rummage through antiques, vintage clothing and collectables (Thursday and Friday), arts and crafts (Wednesday and weekends), or just chow down in the food section.

Petticoat Lane MarketMARKET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Wentworth St & Middlesex St, E1; h9am-2pm Sun-Fri; tAldgate)

A cherished East End institution overflowing with cheap consumer durables and jumble-sale ware.

7Shopping

From world-famous department stores to quirky backstreet retail revelations, London is a mecca for shoppers with an eye for style and a card to exercise.

London's famous department stores are a tourist attraction in themselves, and if there's a label worth having, you'll find it in central London. The capital's most famous designers (Paul Smith, Vivienne Westwood, Stella McCartney, the late Alexander McQueen) have their own stores scattered about and are stocked in major department stores. Look out for dress agencies that sell second-­hand designer clothes, bags and shoes – there are particularly rich pickings in the wealthier parts of town.

Nick Hornby's book High Fidelity may have done for London music-store workers what Sweeney Todd did for barbers, but those obsessive types still lurk in wonderful independent stores all over the city.

West End

Oxford St is the place for high-street fashion, while Regent St cranks it up a notch. Bond St has designers galore, Savile Row is all about bespoke tailoring and Jermyn St is the place for smart clobber (particularly shirts).

SelfridgesDEPARTMENT STORE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.selfridges.com; 400 Oxford St, W1; h9.30am-9pm Mon-Sat, 11.30am-6.15pm Sun; tBond St)

Famed for its innovative window displays – especially at yuletide – the funkiest of London's one-stop shops bursts with fashion labels and tempts with an unparalleled food hall and the world's largest shoe department.

Fortnum & MasonDEPARTMENT STORE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.fortnumandmason.com; 181 Piccadilly, W1; h10am-9pm Mon-Sat, noon-6pm Sun; tPiccadilly Circus)

It's the byword for quality and service from a bygone era, steeped in 300 years of tradition. The old-world basement food hall is where Britain's elite come for their pantry provisions and epicurean morsels. A new branch opened in 2013 at St Pancras International ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.fortnumandmason.com; Unit 1a, St Pancras International Station, Pancras Rd, N1; h7am-9pm Mon-Sat, 8am-9pm Sun; tKing's Cross St Pancras).

LibertyDEPARTMENT STORE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.liberty.co.uk; Great Marlborough St, W1; h10am-8pm Mon-Sat, noon-6pm Sun; tOxford Circus)

An irresistible blend of contemporary styles and indulgent pampering in a mock-Tudor fantasyland of carved dark wood.

TopshopCLOTHING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.topshop.co.uk; 36-38 Great Castle St, W1; h9am-9pm Mon-Sat, 11.30am-6pm Sun; tOxford Circus)

Billed as the 'world's largest fashion store', the Topshop branch on Oxford Circus is a frenzy of shoppers searching for the latest look at reasonable prices. It's home to a range by London's favourite local supermodel rock chick, Kate Moss. Topman is upstairs.

FoylesBOOKS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.foyles.co.uk; 107 Charing Cross Rd, WC2; h9.30am-9pm Mon-Sat, 11.30am-6pm Sun; tTottenham Court Rd)

Flogging books since 1906, Foyles is a bookselling institution and retail landmark.

Stanford’sBOOKS, MAPS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.stanfords.co.uk; 12-14 Long Acre, WC2; h9am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-8pm Sat, noon-6pm Sun; tLeicester Sq, Covent Garden)

A wonderland of travel titles and maps, with 160 years of experience.

HamleysTOYS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.hamleys.com; 188-196 Regent St, W1; h10am-8pm Mon-Sat, noon-6pm Sun; tOxford Circus)

Reputedly the oldest and largest toy store in the world, Hamleys is five floors of games and toys topped off with Lego world and a cafe.

WaterstonesBOOKS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.waterstones.com; 203-206 Piccadilly, W1; h9am-10pm Mon-Sat, noon-6pm Sun; tPiccadilly Circus)

The chain’s mega Piccadilly store is the largest bookstore in Europe, boasting knowledgeable staff and regular author readings and signings. Check out the roof-top 5th View ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7851 2433; www.5thview.co.uk; 5th fl, Waterstone’s Piccadilly, 203-206 Piccadilly, W1; mains £9-15; h9am-10pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun; tPiccadilly Circus) bar-restaurant.

Benjamin Pollock’s Toy ShopTOYS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.pollocks-coventgarden.co.uk; 1st fl, 44 Market Bldg, Covent Garden, WC2; h10.30am-6pm Mon-Sat, 11am-4pm Sun; tCovent Garden)

All manner of treasures await at this gem of a traditional toy shop selling Victorian paper toy theatres, children's masks, spinning tops, finger puppets, antique teddy bears, dolls and more.

Moomin ShopCHILDREN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.themoominshop.com; 43 Market Bldg, Covent Garden, WC2; h10am-8pm Mon-Sat, 11am-7pm Sun; tCovent Garden)

A tiny shrine to Tove Jansson’s adorable Moomintrolls: mugs, hot-water bottle sleeves, tea towels, T-shirts, fridge magnets. The whole moomin shebang.

Knightsbridge, Kensington & Chelsea

Knightsbridge draws the hordes with quintessentially English department stores.

HarrodsDEPARTMENT STORE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.harrods.com; 87 Brompton Rd, SW1; h10am-8pm Mon-Sat, 11.30am-6pm Sun; tKnightsbridge)

Simultaneously stylish and garish, Harrods is an obligatory stop for visitors, both cash-strapped and big spenders alike. The spectacular food hall is a sight in itself.

John Sandoe BooksBOOKS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.johnsandoe.com; 10 Blacklands Tce, SW3; h9.30am-6.30pm Mon-Sat, 11am-5pm Sun; tSloane Sq)

This atmospheric little bookshop is a treasure trove of literary gems and hidden surprises. In business for decades, loyal customers swear by it and the knowledgeable booksellers spill forth with well-read pointers.

Harvey NicholsDEPARTMENT STORE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.harveynichols.com; 109-125 Knightsbridge, SW1; h10am-8pm Mon-Sat, 11.30am-6pm Sun; tKnightsbridge)

London's temple of high fashion, jewellery and perfume.

Bloomsbury & St Pancras

Harry Potter ShopCHILDREN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.harrypotterplatform934.com; departure concourse, King's Cross station, N1; h10am-6pm; tKing's Cross St Pancras)

For all things Potter and Hogwartish.

Notting Hill, Bayswater & Paddington

Portobello Rd and the lanes surrounding it are the main focus, both for the famous market and the quirky boutiques and gift stores.

Ceramica BlueHOMEWARES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.ceramicablue.co.uk; 10 Blenheim Cres, W11; h10am-6.30pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun; tLadbroke Grove)

For original and eye-catching crockery and coloured glass imported from more than a dozen countries, with Japanese eggshell-glaze teacups, serving plates with traditional South African designs, and more.

Marylebone

Daunt BooksBOOKS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.dauntbooks.co.uk; 83 Marylebone High St, W1; h9am-7.30pm Mon-Sat, 11am-6pm Sun; tBaker St)

An exquisitely beautiful store, Daunt is one of London’s loveliest travel bookshops (and stocks general fiction and nonfiction titles as well).

Hoxton, Shoreditch & Spitalfields

Rough Trade EastMUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.roughtrade.com; Dray Walk, Old Truman Brewery, 91 Brick Lane, E1; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 11am-7pm Sat & Sun; tLiverpool St)

At the forefront of the punk explosion of the 1970s, Rough Trade East (or West ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7229 8541; www.roughtrade.com; 130 Talbot Rd, W11; h10am-6.30pm Mon-Sat, 11am-5pm Sun; tLadbroke Grove)) is the best place to come for anything of an indie or alternative music bent.

StartCLOTHING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.start-london.com; 42-44 Rivington St, EC2; h10.30am-6.30pm Mon-Wed & Fri, 11am-6pm Sat, noon-5pm Sun; tOld St)

Spilling over three stores on the same lane (womenswear, menswear and men's formal), your quest for designer jeans starts here.

The East End & Docklands

Westfield Stratford CityMALL

(http://uk.westfield.com; 2 Stratford Place, Montifichet Road, Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, E20; h10am-9pm Mon-Fri, 9am-9pm Sat, noon-6pm Sun; tStratford)

Right by the Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, this is Europe's largest mall, a shopping behemoth with over 250 shops, dozens of restaurants, a 17-screen cinema, and a casino.

8Information

Dangers & Annoyances

Considering its size and wealth disparities, London is generally safe. That said, keep your wits about you and don't flash your cash unnecessarily. Instances of youth-on-youth knife crime is cause for concern, so walk away if you sense trouble brewing and take care at night. When travelling by tube, choose a carriage with other people in it and avoid deserted suburban stations. Following reports of robberies and sexual attacks, shun unlicensed or unbooked minicabs.

Nearly every Londoner has a story about a wallet/phone/bag being nicked from under their noses – or arses, in the case of bags on floors in bars. Watch out for pickpockets on crowded tube trains, night buses and streets.

When using ATMs, guard your PIN details carefully. Don't use an ATM that looks like it's been tampered with as there have been incidents of card cloning.

Emergency

Police/Fire/AmbulanceEMERGENCY, POLICE

(%999)

Rape & Sexual Abuse Support CentreEMERGENCY

(%0808 802 9999; www.rasasc.org.uk; hnoon-2.30pm & 7-9.30pm)

SamaritansEMERGENCY

(%08457 90 90 90; www.samaritans.org)

Internet Access

You'll find free wireless (wi-fi) access at many bars, cafes and hotels (although a few, particularly top-end hotels, continue to charge for the service).

Internet Resources

BBC LondonWEBSITE

(www.bbc.co.uk/london)

Evening StandardNEWSPAPER

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.standard.co.uk)

LondonistWEBSITE

(www.londonist.com)

London-centric blog.

Lonely PlanetTOURIST INFORMATION

(www.lonelyplanet.com/london)

Time OutWEBSITE

(www.timeout.com/london)

View LondonWEBSITE

(www.viewlondon.co.uk)

Walk ItWEBSITE

(www.walkit.com)

Enter your destination and get a walking map, time estimate and information on calories burnt and carbon dioxide saved.

Media

Two free newspapers bookend the working day – Metro in the morning and the London Evening Standard in the evening – both available from tube stations. Also free, Time Out is the local listing guide par excellence.

Medical Services

To find a local doctor, pharmacy or hospital, consult the local telephone directory or call 0845 46 47.

Hospitals with 24-hour accident and emergency units include the following:

St Thomas' HospitalHOSPITAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7188 7188; Lambeth Palace Rd, SE1; tWaterloo)

University College London HospitalHOSPITAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0845 155 5000, 020-3456 7890; www.uclh.org; 235 Euston Rd, NW1; tEuston Sq or Warren St)

Toilets

If you're caught short around London, public toilets can be elusive. Only a handful of tube stations have them, but the bigger National Rail stations usually do (often coin operated). If you can face five floors on an escalator, department stores are a good bet.

Tourist Information

There are tourist information desks at Heathrow Airport, King’s Cross St Pancras station, Liverpool Street station, Piccadilly Circus underground station and Victoria Station. Visit London (%0870 156 6366; www.visitlondon.com) can fill you in on everything from attractions and events to tours and accommodation.

City of London Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.visitthecity.co.uk; St Paul's Churchyard, EC4; h9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm Sun; tSt Paul's)

Tourist information, fast-track tickets to City attractions and guided walks (adult/child under 12 £7/free).

Greenwich Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.visitgreenwich.org.uk/tourist-information-centre; Pepys House, 2 Cutty Sark Gardens, SE10; h10am-5pm; dDLR Cutty Sark)

Information plus guided tours.

8Getting There & Away

London is the major gateway to England.

Air

There are a number of London airports. For more information, see (Click here).

Bus

Most long-distance coaches leave London from Victoria Coach Station ( GOOGLE MAP ; 164 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1; tVictoria).

Car

Check reservation numbers of the main car-hire firms, all of which have airport and various city locations.

Train

London's main-line terminals are all linked by the tube and each serves different destinations. Most stations have left-luggage facilities (around £4) and lockers, toilets (20p) with showers (around £3), newsstands and bookshops, and a range of eating and drinking outlets. St Pancras, Victoria and Liverpool St stations have shopping centres attached.

If you can't find your destination in the list of main-line terminals, consult the journey planner at www.nationalrail.co.uk.

ACharing Cross Canterbury.

AEuston Manchester, Liverpool, Carlisle, Glasgow.

AKing's Cross Cambridge, Hull, York, Newcastle, Scotland.

ALiverpool Street Stansted Airport, Cambridge.

ALondon Bridge Gatwick Airport, Brighton.

AMarylebone Birmingham.

APaddington Heathrow Airport, Oxford, Bath, Bristol, Exeter, Plymouth, Cardiff.

ASt Pancras Gatwick and Luton airports, Brighton, Nottingham, Sheffield, Leicester, Leeds, Paris.

AVictoria Gatwick Airport, Brighton, Canterbury.

AWaterloo Windsor, Winchester, Exeter, Plymouth.

LONDON'S OYSTER DIET

To get the most out of London, you need to be able to jump on and off public transport like a local, not scramble to buy a ticket at hefty rates each time. The best and cheapest way to do this is with an Oyster card, a reusable smartcard on which you can load prepaid credit or Travelcards, valid for periods from a day to a year. The card itself is £5, which is fully refundable when you leave.

London is divided into concentric transport zones, although most visitor destinations are in Zones 1 and 2. Travelcard tickets will give you unlimited transport on the tube, buses and rail services within these zones. All you need to do is touch your card to the yellow sensors on the station turnstiles or at the front of the bus.

For pay-as-you-go, the fare will be deducted from the credit on your card at a much lower rate than if you were buying a one-off paper ticket. An oyster bus trip costs £1.45 as opposed to £2.40 for an individual fare, while a Zone 1 tube journey is £2.20 as opposed to £4.70. Even better, in any single day your fares will be capped at the equivalent of the Oyster day-pass rate for the zones you've travelled in (Zones 1 and 2 peak/off-peak £8.40/7).

Assuming you avoid peak hours (6.30am to 9.30am and 4pm to 7pm), this ready reckoner gives the cheapest options for your length of stay:

One to four days: prepay

Five to 24 days: weeklies topped up with prepay for any remaining days

Twenty-five to 31 days: monthly

8Getting Around

To/From the Airports

Gatwick

There are National Rail (%0845 748 4950; www.nationalrail.co.uk) services between Gatwick's South Terminal and Victoria station (from £15, 37 minutes), running every 15 minutes during the day and hourly through the night. Other trains head to London St Pancras International (from £10, 56 minutes) and London Bridge (£10, 30 minutes, every 15 minutes). Fares are cheaper the earlier you book. If you're racing to make a flight, the Gatwick Express (www.gatwickexpress.com; one way/return £19.90/34.90) departs Victoria every 15 minutes from 5am to 11.45pm (30 minutes, first/last train 3.30am/12.32am).

Prices start from £2, depending on when you book, for the EasyBus (www.easybus.co.uk) minibus service between Gatwick and Earls Court (allow 1¼ hours, every 30 minutes from 4.20am to 1am). You'll be charged extra if you have more than one carry-on and one check-in bag. Book online for the cheapest deals.

Heathrow

Transport connections to Heathrow are excellent, and the journey to and from the city is usually painless. The cheapest option is the Underground. The Piccadilly line is accessible from every terminal (£5.70, one hour to central London, every five minutes from around 5am to 11.30pm). If there are vast queues at the ticket office, use the automatic machines instead; some accept credit cards as well as cash.

You might save some time on the considerably more expensive Heathrow Express (www.heathrowexpress.com; one way/return £21/34), an ultramodern train to Paddington station (15 minutes, every 15 minutes 5.12am to 11.48pm). You can purchase tickets on board (£5 extra), from self-service machines (cash and credit cards accepted) at both stations, or online.

There are taxi ranks for black cabs outside every terminal; a fare to the centre of London will cost between £45 and £85.

London City

The Docklands Light Railway (DLR) connects London City Airport to the tube network, taking 22 minutes to reach Bank station (£4.70). A black taxi costs around £30 to/from central London.

Luton

There are regular National Rail (www.nationalrail.co.uk) services from St Pancras (£13.90, 29 to 39 minutes) to Luton Airport Parkway station, where a shuttle bus (£1.60) will get you to the airport within 10 minutes. EasyBus minibuses head from Victoria, Earl's Court and Baker St to Luton (one-way £10, allow 1½ hours, every 30 minutes). A taxi to central London costs around £100 to £110.

Stansted

The Stansted Express (%0845 8500150; www.stanstedexpress.com) connects with Liverpool St station (one way/return £23.40/33.20, 46 minutes, every 15 to 30 minutes 6am to 12.30am).

EasyBus (www.easybus.co.uk; one way £10, return from £12) services run between Stansted and Baker St (1¼ hours, every 20 minutes). The Airbus A6 (%0870 580 8080; www.nationalexpress.com) links with Victoria Coach station (£11, allow 1¾ hours, at least every 30 minutes). National Express also runs buses to Stansted from Liverpool St station (£9 one way, 80 mins, every 30 mins).

Terravision (www.terravision.eu) coaches link Stansted to both Liverpool St train station (bus A51, one way/return from £9/15, 55 minutes) and Victoria coach station (bus A50, one way/return from £8/14, 75 minutes) every 20 to 40 minutes between 6am and 1am.

A taxi cab to/from central London costs about £125.

Bicycle

The central city is flat and relatively compact and traffic moves slowly – all good news for cyclists. Operating 24 hours a day, the excellent Barclays Cycle Hire Scheme (%0845 026 3630; www.tfl.gov.uk.) allows you to hire a bike from one of 400 docking stations around London. The access fee is £2 for 24 hours or £10 per week; after that, the first 30 minutes is free (making the bikes perfect for short hops), or £1/4/6/15 for one hour/90 minutes/two hours/three hours. Cycle as often as you like, but leave five minutes between each trip. Visitors to London can pay either online or using a credit or debit card at a docking station. The minimum age for buying access is 18, the minimum age for riding a Barclays Bike is 14.

Car

The M25 ring road encompasses the 609 sq miles that is broadly regarded as Greater London. For motorists it's the first circle of hell; London's streets can be congested beyond belief. Traffic is heavy, roadwork continuous, parking is either impossible or expensive, and wheel-clampers are diligent. If you drive into central London from 7am to 6pm on a weekday, you'll need to pay a £10 per day congestion charge (visit www.tfl.gov.uk for payment options) or face a hefty fine. If you're hiring a car to continue your trip from London, take the tube to Heathrow and pick it up from there.

Public Transport

Although complaining about it is a local sport, London's public transport is excellent, with tubes, trains, buses and boats getting you wherever you need to go. TFL (www.tfl.gov.uk), the city's public transport provider, is the glue that binds the network together. Its website has a handy journey planner and information on all services, including cabs. Get yourself an Oyster card and make the most of it.

Boat

Boats plying the Thames are a great way to travel, avoiding traffic jams while affording great views. Passengers with daily, weekly or monthly travelcards (including on Oyster) get a third off all fares.

Thames Clippers (www.thamesclippers.com) runs regular commuter services between Embankment, Waterloo, Blackfriars, Bankside, London Bridge, Tower, Canary Wharf, Greenwich, North Greenwich and Woolwich piers (adult/child £6.80/3.40) from 6am and between 10pm and midnight depending on the day of the week (from 9.30am weekends). Leisure services include the Tate-to-Tate boat and Westminster–Greenwich services. There are also boats to Kew Gardens and Hampton Court Palace.

London Waterbus Company (%020-7482 2660; www.londonwaterbus.com; single/return £8.20/11.50) and Jason's Trip ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.jasons.co.uk; opposite 42 Blomfield Rd, W9; single/return £9/14) both run canal boat journeys between Camden Lock and Little Venice; see websites for times. London has some 40 miles of inner-city canals, mostly built in the 19th century.

Bus

Travelling around London by double-decker bus is great for seeing the city, but it's usually slower than the tube. Heritage 'Routemaster' buses with conductors operate on route 9 (from Aldwych to Royal Albert Hall) and 15 (between Trafalgar Sq and Tower Hill); these are the only buses without wheelchair access. A new fleet of freshly designed hybrid diesel/electric hop-on/hop-off (and wheelchair-accessible) Routemasters is now running on some routes, and will number 600 buses by 2016.

Buses run regularly during the day, while less frequent night buses (prefixed with the letter 'N') wheel into action when the tube stops. Single-journey bus tickets (valid for two hours) cost £2.40 (£1.45 on Oyster, capped at £4.40 per day); a weekly pass is £20.20. Children ride for free. At stops with yellow signs, you must buy your ticket from the automatic machine (or use an Oyster) before boarding. Buses stop on request, so clearly signal the driver with an outstretched arm.

London Underground, DLR & Overground

'The tube', as it's universally known, burrows throughout London and into the surrounding counties, with services running every few minutes from roughly 5.30am to 12.30am (from 7am to 11.30pm Sunday).

It's easy to use. Tickets (or Oyster card top-ups) can be purchased from counters or machines at the entrance to each station using either cash or credit card. They're then inserted into the slot on the turnstiles (or you touch your Oyster card on the yellow reader), and the barrier opens.

Also included within the network are the driverless Docklands Light Railway (DLR), and the train lines shown on tube maps as 'Overground'. The DLR links the City to Docklands, Greenwich and London City Airport.

The tube map itself is an acclaimed graphic design work, using coloured lines to show how the 14 different routes intersect. However, it's not remotely to scale. The distances between stations become greater the further from central London you travel, while Leicester Sq and Covent Garden stations are only 250m apart.

Train

Particularly south of the river, where tube lines are in shorter supply, the various rail companies are an important part of the public transport picture. Most stations are now fitted with Oyster readers and accept Travelcards. If you travel outside your zone you'll need to have enough prepay credit on your Oyster card to cover the additional charge. As not all stations have turnstiles, it's important to remember to tap-in and tap-out at the Oyster reader at the station or your card will register an unfinished journey and you're likely to be charged extra. You can still buy a paper ticket from machines or counters at train stations.

Taxi

London's famous black cabs are available for hire when the yellow light above the windscreen is lit. To get an all-London licence, cabbies must do 'The Knowledge', which tests them on up to 25,000 streets within a 6-mile radius of Charing Cross and all points of interest from hotels to churches. Fares are metered, with flag fall of £2.40 and the additional rate dependent on time of day, distance travelled and taxi speed. A one-mile trip will cost between £5.60 and £8.80. To order a black cab by phone, try Computer Cabs (%cash 020-7908 0207, credit card 020-7432 1432; www.comcablondon.com); it charges a £2 booking fee. Find the nearest black cab by downloading the Hailo (hailocab.com) app to your mobile.

Licensed minicabs operate via agencies (most busy areas have a walk-in office with drivers waiting). They're a cheaper alternative to black cabs and quote trip fares in advance. To find a local minicab firm, visit www.tfl.gov.uk.

There have been many reports of sexual assault and theft by unlicensed minicab drivers. Only use drivers from proper agencies; licensed minicabs aren't allowed to tout for business or pick you up off the street without a booking, so avoid the shady characters who hang around outside nightclubs or bars.