Pimlico

The origins of its name highly obscure, Pimlico is a grand part of London, bordered by the Thames but lacking a strong sense of neighbourhood, becoming prettier the further you stray from Victoria station.

oTate BritainGALLERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.tate.org.uk; Millbank, SW1; h10am-6pm, to 10pm 1st Fri of month; tPimlico)F

Splendidly refurbished with a stunning new staircase and a rehung collection, the more elderly and venerable of the two Tate siblings – in a riverside Portland stone edifice – celebrates paintings from 1500 to the present, with works from Blake, Hogarth, Gainsborough, Barbara Hepworth, Whistler, Constable and Turner – in particular – whose light-infused visions dominate the Clore Gallery. It doesn't stop there and vibrant modern and contemporary art finds expression in pieces from Lucian Freud, Francis Bacon and Tracey Emin.

The controversial Turner Prize (inviting annual protests outside the gallery) is held here every year between October and January, while a fantastic cafe with an excellent terrace facing the river provides sustenance and views. Free one-hour thematic tours are held daily at 11am, noon, 2pm and 3pm, and don't overlook the Late at Tate night (first Friday of the month), when doors are open to 10pm.

Chelsea & Kensington

Known as the royal borough, Chelsea and Kensington lays claim to the highest income earners in the UK. Kensington High St has a lively mix of chains and boutiques, while even the charity shops along King's Rd resemble fashion outlets. Some of London's most beautiful and fascinating museums, clustered together in South Kensington, are must-sees come rain or shine.

Knightsbridge, South Kensington & Chelsea

1Top Sights

1Natural History MuseumB5

2Science MuseumB5

3Victoria & Albert MuseumC5

1Sights

4Albert MemorialB4

5Diana, Princess of Wales Memorial FountainC3

6Hyde ParkD2

7King's RoadD7

8Royal Hospital ChelseaF8

9Saatchi GalleryE7

10Serpentine GalleryB3

11Serpentine LakeD3

12Serpentine Sackler GalleryC2

13Speakers' CornerE1

4Sleeping

14Ampersand HotelB6

15B+B BelgraviaG6

16GoreB4

17Levin HotelE4

18Lime Tree HotelG6

19MeiningerB5

20Number SixteenB6

5Eating

21Dinner by Heston BlumenthalE4

22Five FieldsE7

23Gordon RamsayE8

24OttolenghiE4

25ZumaD4

6Drinking & Nightlife

26Queen's ArmsA4

3Entertainment

27Royal Albert HallB4

28Royal Court TheatreF6

7Shopping

29HarrodsD4

30Harvey NicholsE4

31John Sandoe BooksE7

oVictoria & Albert MuseumMUSEUM

(V&A; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.vam.ac.uk; Cromwell Rd, SW7; h10am-5.45pm Sat-Thu, to 10pm Fri; tSouth Kensington)F

This outstanding museum boasts an unparalleled collection of decorative art and design with some 4.5 million objects from Britain and around the globe. The museum setting and gorgeous architecture is as inspiring as the sheer diversity and rarity of its exhibits. Part of Prince Albert's legacy to Londoners in the wake of the Great Exhibition of 1851, the museum is a bit like the nation's attic, spread generously through nearly 150 galleries.

The museum is epic, but it's open late on Friday evenings, for smaller crowds. For food and drink, make for the V&A Café in the magnificent Refreshment Rooms, dating from the 1860s, or the Garden Café in the John Madesjki Garden in summer.

Free one-hour guided tours leave the main reception area four times daily.

oNatural History MuseumMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.nhm.ac.uk; Cromwell Rd, SW7; h10am-5.50pm; tSouth Kensington)F

This ornate building is one of London's finest and a masterpiece: pale blue and honey-coloured stone, broken by Venetian arches decorated with all manner of carved critters. A sure-fire hit with kids of all ages, this awesome museum is crammed with fascinating discoveries, starting with the giant Diplodocus skeleton that greets you in the main hall. In the dinosaur gallery, the roaring 4m-high animatronic Tyrannosaurus Rex is a heart-thumping highlight.

Other galleries are equally impressive. An escalator slithers up into a hollowed-out globe where Volcanoes and Earthquakes explores the forces that shape our planet; highlights include a plate tectonics room and the mock-up of the Kobe earthquake, a bone-rattling lesson in fault lines.

The Darwin Centre houses a team of biologists and a staggering 20-million-plus repertoire of animal and plant specimens. Take a lift to the top of the Cocoon, a seven-storey egg-shaped structure encased within a glass pavilion, and make your way down through the floors of interactive displays. Glass windows allow you to watch the scientists at work.

Finally, don't overlook Sensational Butterflies by the East Lawn and the charming Wildlife Garden, a slice of English countryside in SW7.

oScience MuseumMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.sciencemuseum.org.uk; Exhibition Rd, SW7; h10am-6pm; tSouth Kensington)F

With seven floors of interactive and educational exhibits, this scientifically spellbinding museum will mesmerise even the most precocious of young Einsteins. Highlights include the Energy Hall on the ground floor, the riveting Flight Gallery on the 3rd floor and the flight simulator. There's also a 450-seat Imax cinema. Some children head straight for voice warpers, lava lamps, boomerangs, bouncy globes and alien babies in the ground-floor shop, and stay put.

If you've kids under the age of five, scoot down to the basement for the Garden, where there's a fun-filled play zone, including a water-play area, besieged by tots in red waterproof smocks.

Hyde ParkPARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h5.30am-midnight; tMarble Arch, Hyde Park Corner, Queensway)

At 145 hectares, Hyde Park is central London's largest open space. Henry VIII expropriated it from the Church in 1536, when it became a hunting ground and later a venue for duels, executions and horse racing. The 1851 Great Exhibition was held here, and during WWII the park became an enormous potato field. These days, it serves as an occasional concert venue and a full-time green space for fun and frolics.

There's boating on the Serpentine ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; tKnightsbridge or South Kensington), while Speakers' Corner ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Park Lane; tMarble Arch) sees oratorical acrobats on Sundays, maintaining a tradition begun in 1872 as a response to rioting. A wee bit north is Marble Arch ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; tMarble Arch), designed by John Nash in 1828 as the entrance to Buckingham Palace and moved here in 1851; it once served as a police lookout. The infamous Tyburn Tree, a three-legged gallows, once stood nearby. It is estimated that up to 50,000 people were executed here between 1196 and 1783.

Kensington PalacePALACE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.hrp.org.uk/kensingtonpalace; Kensington Gardens, W8; adult/child £16.50/free; h10am-6pm Mar-Oct, to 5pm Nov-Feb; tHigh St Kensington)

Kensington Palace (1605) became the favourite royal residence under the joint reign of William and Mary and remained so until the death of George II (in 1762, George III bought Buckingham Palace for his wife, Charlotte). It still has private apartments where various members of the royal extended family live.

In popular imagination it's most associated with three intriguing princesses: Victoria (who was born here in 1819 and lived here with her domineering mother until her accession to the throne), Margaret (sister of the current queen, who lived here until her death in 2002) and, of course, Diana. The palace recently underwent huge restoration work totalling £12 million.

Kensington GardensGARDENS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; hdawn-dusk; tHigh St Kensington)

Blending in with Hyde Park, these royal gardens are part of Kensington Palace and hence popularly associated with Princess Diana. Diana devotees can visit the Diana, Princess of Wales Memorial Fountain ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; tKnightsbridge), a soothing structure fashioned from 545 pieces of Cornish granite, channeling a circular stream drawn from chalk aquifers more than 100m underground that cascades gently and flows together in a pool at the bottom; paddling is encouraged.

The astonishing Albert Memorial ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; tours adult/concession £6/5; htours 2pm & 3pm 1st Sun of month Mar-Dec; tKnightsbridge, Gloucester Rd) is a unique chunk of Victorian bombast, a lavish marble, mosaic and gold affair opposite the Royal Albert Hall, built to honour Queen Victoria's husband, Albert (1819–61).

The gardens also house the Serpentine Gallery ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.serpentinegallery.org; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun; tLancaster Gate or Knightsbridge), one of London's edgiest contemporary art spaces; the recently opened Serpentine Sackler Gallery ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.serpentinegallery.org; West Carriage Drive; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun; tLancaster Gate) is on the far side of the Serpentine Bridge, in the former Magazine. The Sunken Garden, near the palace, is at its prettiest in summer, while tea in the Orangery ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-3166 6112; www.hrp.org.uk; Kensington Palace, Kensington Gardens, W8; afternoon tea £24, with champagne £34; h10am-6pm Mar-Oct, to 5pm Nov-Feb; tQueensway, Notting Hill Gate, High St Kensington) is a treat any time of the year.

King’s RoadSTREET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; tSloane Sq)

Named after King Charles II who would return to Hampton Court Palace along a farmer's track here after amorous interludes with Nell Gwyn, this street was almost synonymous with London fashion during the '60s and '70s. Its days at the counter-cultural forefront of London fashion long gone, King’s Road today is more a stamping ground for the leisure-class shopping set.

Saatchi GalleryGALLERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.saatchi-gallery.co.uk; Duke of York's HQ, King's Rd, SW1; h10am-6pm; tSloane Sq)F

This enticing gallery hosts temporary exhibitions of experimental and thought-provoking work across a variety of media. The white and sanded bare-floorboard galleries are sharply presented, but save some wonder for Gallery 15, where Richard Wilson’s 20:50 is on permanent display. Mesmerising, impassive and ineffable, it's a riveting tour de force. A cool bookshop chips in down in the basement.

Royal Hospital ChelseaHISTORIC BUILDINGS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.chelsea-pensioners.co.uk; Royal Hospital Rd, SW3; hgrounds 10am-noon & 2-4pm Mon-Sat, museum 10am-noon & 2-4pm Mon-Fri; tSloane Sq)F

Designed by Wren, the Royal Hospital Chelsea was built in 1692 to provide shelter for ex-servicemen. Today it houses hundreds of war veterans known as Chelsea Pensioners, charming old chaps generally regarded as national treasures. The Chelsea Flower Show takes place in the hospital grounds in May.

Chelsea Physic GardenGARDENS

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.chelseaphysicgarden.co.uk; 66 Royal Hospital Rd, SW3; adult/child £9.90/6.60; h11am-6pm Tue-Fri & Sun Apr-Oct, to 10pm Wed Jul & Aug; tSloane Sq)

This gorgeous botanical enclave was established by the Apothecaries' Society in 1676 for students working on medicinal plants and healing. One of Europe's oldest of its kind, the small grounds are a compendium of botany from carnivorous pitcher plants to rich yellow flag irises, a cork oak from Portugal, delightful ferns and a treasure trove of rare trees and shrubs. Free tours are held three times daily.

Fulham PalaceHISTORIC BUILDING

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.fulhampalace.org; Bishop's Ave; hpalace & museum 12.30-4.30pm Mon-Thu, noon-5pm Sun, gardens dawn-dusk daily; tPutney Bridge)F

Summer home of the bishops of London from 704 to 1975, this genteel palace near the Thames has an adorable courtyard that draws watercolourists on sunny days, a splendid cafe in the drawing room at the rear (looking out onto a magnificent lawn), a pretty walled garden and a Tudor Revival chapel.

Guided tours usually take in the Great Hall, the Victorian chapel, Bishop Sherlock’s Room and the museum and last about 1¼ hours. There are also garden tours (£5); check the website for details on evening walks (for a nightfall perspective). Hiking around the extensive and partially excavated palace moat (once the longest in England) is enjoyable. Films are screened on the lawn in summer, when art fairs and musical festivals are also held.

Marylebone

Not as exclusive as its southern neighbour Mayfair, hip Marylebone has one of London's most pleasant high streets and the famous, if rather disappointing, Baker St, immortalised in the hit song by Gerry Rafferty and strongly associated with Victoria-era sleuth Sherlock Holmes (there's a museum and gift shop at his fictional address, 221b).

Marylebone

1Sights

1Madame TussaudsB1

2Marble ArchA5

5Eating

3La FromagerieB2

4Locanda LocatelliA4

5Providores & Tapa RoomC3

6Roti ChaiB5

6Drinking & Nightlife

7PurlB3

7Shopping

8Daunt BooksB2

9SelfridgesB5

Regent’s ParkPARK

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.royalparks.org.uk; h5am-dusk; tRegent's Park, Baker St)

A former royal hunting ground, Regent's Park was designed by John Nash early in the 19th century, although what was actually laid out is only a fraction of the celebrated architect's grand plan. Nevertheless, it's one of London's most lovely open spaces – at once serene and lively, cosmopolitan and local – with football pitches, tennis courts, a boating lake, ZSL London Zoo, and Regent's canal along its northern side.

Queen Mary's Gardens, towards the south of the park, are particularly pretty, with spectacular roses in summer. Open Air Theatre ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0844 826 4242; www.openairtheatre.org) hosts performances of Shakespeare and other classics here on summer evenings, along with comedy and concerts.

ZSL London ZooZOO

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.londonzoo.co.uk; Outer Circle, Regent's Park, NW1; adult/child £26/18.50; h10am-5.30pm Mar-Oct, to 4pm Nov-Feb; tCamden Town)

These famous zoological gardens have come a long way since being established in 1828, with massive investment making conservation, education and breeding the name of the game. Highlights include Tiger Territory, Penguin Beach, Gorilla Kingdom, Rainforest Life, Nightlife and Butterfly Paradise. Feeding sessions or talks take place during the day. Save 20% off the admission price by booking online.

Regent's CanalCANAL

( GOOGLE MAP )

To flee the crowded streets and enjoy a picturesque, waterside angle on North London, take to the canals that once played such a vital role in the transport of goods across the capital. The towpath of Regent's Canal also makes an excellent shortcut across North London, either on foot or by bike.

In full, the ribbon of water runs 9 miles from Limehouse to Little Venice (where it meets the Grand Union Canal), but you can make do with walking from Little Venice to Camden in under an hour, passing Regent's Park and London Zoo, as well as beautiful villas designed by architect John Nash and redevelopments of old industrial buildings. Allow 15 to 20 minutes between Camden and Regent's Park, and 25 to 30 minutes between Regent's Park and Little Venice. The London Waterbus Company and Jason's Trip run canal boats between Camden Lock and Little Venice.

Madame TussaudsMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0870 400 3000; www.madame-tussauds.com/london; Marylebone Rd, NW1; adult/child £30/26; h9.30am-5.30pm; tBaker St)

Tickets may cost a (wax) arm and a (wax) leg and the crowds can be as awesome as the exhibits, but the opportunity to pose beside Posh and Becks has clear-cut kudos. Most of the life-size wax figures – such as Leonardo Di Caprio – are fantastically lifelike and as close to the real thing as most of us will get, but queues for the Queen (and Barack Obama) can get leg-numbing.

Honing her craft making effigies of victims of the French revolution, Tussaud brought her wares to England in 1802. Her Chamber of Horrors still survives (complete with the actual blade that took Marie Antoinette's head), but it's joined by Scream!, where actors lunge at terrified visitors in the dark. The Spirit of London ride in a black cab is tremendous fun and the 4-D Marvel film is top-drawer entertainment, the audience sprayed with air jets and mist and jabbed in the back during a spectacular action film centred on London. Try to arrive early in the morning to avoid long queues.

Tickets are cheaper when ordered online; combined tickets with the London Eye, London Dungeon and London Sealife Aquarium are also available.

North Central London

1Top Sights

1British LibraryC2

2Wellcome CollectionB3

1Sights

3Charles Dickens MuseumF4

4Sleeping

4Arosfa HotelB4

5Clink78F2

6GeneratorD3

7London St Pancras YHAC2

8Rough LuxeD2

9St Pancras Renaissance London HotelC2

10Zetter Hotel & TownhouseH4

5Eating

Bistrot Bruno LoubetH4

11DabbousA5

12Diwana Bhel Poori HouseA3

13Hummus BrosD5

14Hummus BrosG3

15Little BayG4

16Modern PantryH4

17MoritoG3

18North Sea Fish RestaurantD3

19Prufrock CoffeeG5

6Drinking & Nightlife

20Big Chill HouseE1

21Jerusalem TavernH5

22Queen's LarderD5

3Entertainment

23Sadler's WellsH2

7Shopping

24Fortnum & MasonC2

25Harry Potter ShopD1

Bloomsbury & St Pancras

With the University of London and British Museum within its genteel environs, it's little wonder that Bloomsbury has attracted a lot of very clever, bookish people over the years. Between the world wars, these pleasant streets were colonised by a group of artists and intellectuals known collectively as the Bloomsbury Group, which included novelists Virginia Woolf and EM Forster and the economist John Maynard Keynes. Russell Sq, its very heart, was laid out in 1800 and is one of London's largest and loveliest.

The conversion of spectacular St Pancras station into the Eurostar terminal and a ritzy apartment complex is reviving the area's fortunes.

oBritish MuseumMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7323 8000; www.britishmuseum.org; Great Russell St, WC1; h10am-5.30pm Sat-Thu, to 8.30pm Fri; tRussell Sq, Tottenham Court Rd)F

The country's largest museum and one of the oldest and finest in the world, this monumental accumulation of treasures boasts vast Egyptian, Etruscan, Greek, Roman, European and Middle Eastern galleries, among many others. Begun in 1753 with a 'cabinet of curiosities' bequeathed by Sir Hans Sloane to the nation on his death, the collection mushroomed over the ensuing years partly through plundering the empire. The grand Enlightenment Gallery was the first section of the redesigned museum to be built (in 1820).

Among the must-sees are the Rosetta Stone, the key to deciphering Egyptian hiero­glyphics, discovered in 1799; the controversial Parthenon Sculptures, stripped from the walls of the Parthenon in Athens by Lord Elgin (the British ambassador to the Ottoman Empire), and which Greece wants returned; the stunning Oxus Treasure of 7th- to 4th-century-BC Persian gold; and the Anglo-Saxon Sutton Hoo burial relics.

The Great Court was restored and augmented by Norman Foster in 2000 and now has a spectacular glass-and-steel roof, making it one of the most impressive architectural spaces in the capital. In the centre is the Reading Room, with its stunning blue-and-gold domed ceiling, where Karl Marx wrote the Manifesto of the Communist Party.

The museum is huge, so make a few focused visits if you have time, and consider the 15 free 30- to 40-minute eyeOpener tours of individual galleries per day. The museum also has excellent multimedia iPad tours (adult/child £5/3.50), offering six themed one-hour tours, and eight 35-minute children’s trails. Highlights tours (adult/child £12/free) depart at 11.30am and 2pm Saturday and Sunday.

The British Museum's long-awaited new extension, the World Conservation and Exhibitions Centre in its northwestern corner, opened in 2014, with an exhibition on the Vikings.

When museum fever strikes you down, pop across the way to the lovely Museum Tavern ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 49 Great Russell St, WC1; h11am-11.30pm Mon-Sat, 10am-10pm Sun; tHolborn, Tottenham Court Rd) where Karl Marx used to polish off a drink or two after a hard day’s graft in the Reading Room of the British Library.

oBritish LibraryLIBRARY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.bl.uk; 96 Euston Rd, NW1; Ritblat Gallery free, special exhibition cost varies; h9.30am-6pm Mon & Wed-Fri, to 8pm Tue, to 5pm Sat, 11am-5pm Sun; tKing's Cross St Pancras)

For visitors, the real highlight of the British Library is a visit to the Sir John Ritblat Gallery, where the most precious manuscripts, spanning almost three millennia, are held. Here you'll find the Codex Sinaiticus (the first complete text of the New Testament), a Gutenberg Bible (1455), the stunningly illustrated Jain sacred texts, Leonardo da Vinci's notebooks, a copy of the Magna Carta (1215), explorer Captain Scott's final diary and Shakespeare's First Folio (1623).

Further choice selections include the lyrics to 'A Hard Day's Night' (scribbled on the back of Julian Lennon's birthday card) plus original scores by Handel, Mozart and Beethoven.

oWellcome CollectionMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.wellcomecollection.org; 183 Euston Rd, NW1; h10am-6pm Tue, Wed, Fri & Sat, to 10pm Thu, 11am-6pm Sun; tEuston Sq)F

Focussing on the interface of art, science and medicine, this museum – 'a free destination for the incurably curious' – is fascinating. The core of the permanent collection includes objects from around the world collected by Sir Henry Wellcome (1853–1936), a pharmacist, entrepreneur and collector who amassed more than a million objects from different civilisations.

Charles Dickens MuseumMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.dickensmuseum.com; 48 Doughty St, WC1; adult/child £8/4; h10am-5pm, last admission 4pm; tChancery Lane, Russell Sq)

Recently refurbished, Dickens' sole surviving London residence is where his work really flourished – The Pickwick Papers, Nicholas Nickleby and Oliver Twist were all written here. The handsome four-storey house narrowly dodged demolition and opened as a museum in 1925.

Camden Town

Once well outside the city limits, the former hamlets of North London were long ago gobbled up by the metropolis, yet they still harbour a village feel and distinct local identity. Neither as resolutely wealthy as the west (although there are highly desirable pockets) or as gritty as the east (but there's attitude), the 'Norf' is a mix of genteel terrace houses and featureless council estates, containing some of London's hippest neighbourhoods.

Technicolor hairstyles, facial furniture, elaborate tattoos and alternative threads are the look of bohemian Camden Town, a vibrant neighbourhood of pubs, live-music venues, appealing boutiques and, most famously, Camden Market.

Hoxton, Shoreditch & Spitalfields

These revitalised and hip areas northeast of the City have enough sightseeing allure to keep daytime travellers occupied, but things really get going in the evening, when the late-night pubs, clubs and restaurants come into their own. Vibrant Hoxton and Shoreditch form the centre of gravity for nightlife, while Sunday is optimum for strolling leisurely through Spitalfields after a Saturday night out. Over the centuries, waves of immigrants have left their mark here, and it's a great place to come for diverse cuisine and vibrant nightlife.

Dennis Severs' HouseMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7247 4013; www.dennissevershouse.co.uk; 18 Folgate St, E1; tLiverpool St)

This extraordinary Georgian House is set up as if its occupants (a family of Huguenot silk weavers) had just walked out the door, with half-drunk cups of tea, lit candles and, with perhaps more detail than necessary, a full chamber pot by the bed. More than a museum, it's an opportunity to meditate on the minutiae of everyday Georgian life through silent exploration.

Bookings are required for the Monday- and Wednesday-evening candlelit sessions (£14; 6pm to 9pm), but you can just show up on Sundays (£10; noon to 4pm) or selected Mondays (£7; noon to 2pm).

Geffrye MuseumMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.geffrye-museum.org.uk; 136 Kingsland Rd, E2; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun; tHoxton, Old St)F

If you like nosing around other people's homes, you'll love this museum. Devoted to middle-class domestic interiors, these former almshouses (1714) have been converted into a series of living rooms dating from 1630 to the current Ikea generation. On top of the interiors, the back garden has been transformed into period garden 'rooms' and a lovely walled herb garden (April to October only).

LONDON FOR CHILDREN

London is terrific for kids. Many of the city's museums – among the best in the world – are free and will fascinate all ages, with bundles of activities on offer, from storytelling at the National Gallery to arts and crafts workshops at the Victoria & Albert Museum and fun sleepovers at the British Museum, Natural History Museum, Science Museum and others. Theatre, dance and music performances are perfect for older kids and teens. Playgrounds and parks are ideal for relaxation or wearing the young tykes out. On top of that, city farms (see www.london-footprints.co.uk/visitfarms.htm) and the big galleries have activities for children. Ice rinks glisten across London in winter months, at Somerset House, the Natural History Museum, the Tower of London, and Hampton Court Palace. For the Hogwarts fan club, the Making of Harry Potter (Warner Bros studio tour) is a short train trip away from Euston station.

All top-range hotels offer in-house babysitting services. Prices vary enormously from hotel to hotel, so ask the concierge about hourly rates. Get a babysitter or nanny at Greatcare (www.greatcare.co.uk), a site that provides all manner of childcare options.

Under-16s travel free on buses, under-11s travel free on the tube and under-5s go free on the trains.

The East End & Docklands

A huge area, the East End and Docklands are not rich in sights, but a dramatic new focus has emerged in the Olympic Park, while recently opened Overground lines make transport a breeze.

The Docklands' Canary Wharf and Isle of Dogs are an island of tower blocks, rivalling those of the City itself. London's port was once the world's greatest, the hub of the enormous global trade of the British Empire. Since being pummelled by the unpleasant Luftwaffe in WWII, its fortunes have been topsy-turvy, but massive development of Canary Wharf replaced its crusty seadogs with battalions of dark-suited office workers.

Museum of London DocklandsMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.museumoflondon.org.uk/docklands; Hertsmere Rd, West India Quay, E17; h10am-6pm; dDLR West India Quay)F

Housed in a heritage-listed warehouse, this museum combines artefacts and multimedia to chart the history of the city through its river and docks. There's a lot to see here, including an informative section on the slave trade. The museum faces West India Quay; head west (towards the City) from the DLR station.

Queen Elizabeth Olympic ParkPARK

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.queenelizabetholympicpark.co.uk; tStratford)

From 2008, a vast swath of industrial East London was ambitiously regenerated, becoming London's Olympic Park for the 2012 Games. The 560-acre parkland was renamed the Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park and fully opened to public use in 2014. Complementing its iconic sporting architecture (much of which has been opened to public use) the park was thoughtfully designed with a diverse mix of wetland, woodland, meadow and other wildlife habitats as an environmentally fertile legacy for the future.

The signature buildings are the sustainably-built Olympic Stadium, the uplifting Aquatics Centre (now open to swimmers of all abilities), the cutting-edge Lee Valley VeloPark (%0845 6770 603; h9am-10pm), with cycling sessions now bookable, and the Copper Box Arena, an indoor venue for sports and concerts. The twisted, abstract tangle of metal overlooking everything is the ArcelorMittal Orbit ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.arcelormittalorbit.com; Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, E20; adult/child £15/7; h10am-6pm Apr-Sep, to 4pm Oct-Mar; tStratford), a 115m-high observation tower that opened during the games. Panoramic views of the park can also be had from the View Tube ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.theviewtube.co.uk; The Greenway; h9am-5pm; dDLR Pudding Mill Lane) on the Greenway. Right alongside the park, Westfield Stratford City is Europe's largest urban shopping mall.

House MillHISTORIC BUILDING

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.housemill.org.uk; Three Mill Lane, E3; adult/child £3/free; h11am-4pm Sun May-Oct, 1st Sun only Mar, Apr & Dec; tBromley-by-Bow)

One of two remaining mills from a trio that once stood on this small island in the River Lea, House Mill (1776) operated as a sluice tidal mill, grinding grain for a nearby distillery until 1941. Tours, which run according to demand and last about 45 minutes, take visitors to all four floors of the mill.

CrystalMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; One Siemens Brothers Way, Royal Victoria Docks, E16; adult/child £8/free; h10am-5pm Tue-Fri, to 7pm Sat & Sun; dDLR Royal Victoria, Emirates Royal Docks)

Housed in a dramatically modern structure, this creative, highly interactive and thoroughly engaging Siemens-sponsored exhibition focuses on urban sustainability and the pressures facing the modern city, from water to energy consumption, transport needs and beyond. Engaging for both adults and youngsters, you can tie it in with the Emirates Air Line cable car journey across the river from North Greenwich. The ticket includes a complimentary return within two weeks.

EMIRATES AIR LINE CABLE CAR

Emirates Air LineCABLE CAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.emiratesairline.co.uk; adult/child single £4.40/2.30, return £8.80/4.60, with Oyster or Travelcard single £3.20/1.60, return £6.40/3.20; h7am-9pm Mon-Fri, 8am-9pm Sat, 9am-9pm Sun Apr-Sep, closes 1hr earlier Oct-Mar; dDLR Royal Victoria, tNorth Greenwich)

Capable of ferrying 2400 people per hour across the Thames in either direction, the Emirates Air Line cable car staples together the Greenwich Peninsula and the Royal Docks in a five- to 10-minute journey.

Designed to help regenerate both sides of the river around each embarkation point, the UK's first urban cable car system has cabins every half minute; Oyster card and Travelcard holders nab discounts for journeys, which are bike-friendly, too.

Arriving at Royal Docks, you can hop on the DLR at Royal Victoria DLR station, while in Greenwich, the underground interchange is with North Greenwich Station. Open return tickets (£10) can be used any time on the same day and include entry to the Emirates Aviation Experience.

Greenwich

Greenwich (gren-itch) straddles the hemispheres and the ages, retaining its own sense of identity based on historic associations with the sea and science and an extraordinary cluster of buildings that have earned 'Maritime Greenwich' a Unesco World Heritage listing.

Greenwich is easily reached on the DLR or via train from London Bridge. Thames River Services ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.thamesriverservices.co.uk; adult/child single £12.25/6.10, return £16/8) has boats departing from Westminster Pier (one hour, every 40 minutes), or alternatively take the cheaper Thames Clippers (www.thamesclippers.com; adult/child £6.50/3.25) ferry.

oOld Royal Naval CollegeHISTORIC BUILDING

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.oldroyalnavalcollege.org; 2 Cutty Sark Gardens, SE10; h10am-5pm, grounds 8am-6pm; dDLR Cutty Sark)F

Designed by Wren, the Old Royal Naval College is a magnificent example of monumental classical architecture. Parts are now used by the University of Greenwich and Trinity College of Music, but you can visit the chapel and the extraordinary Painted Hall, which took artist Sir James Thornhill 19 years to complete. The complex was built on the site of the 15th-century Palace of Placentia, the birthplace of Henry VIII and Elizabeth I.

The Tudor connection, along with Greenwich's industrial and maritime history, is explored in the Discover Greenwich ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.ornc.org; Pepys Building, King William Walk; h10am-5pm) centre. The tourist office is based here, along with a cafe/restaurant and microbrewery. Yeomen-led tours of the complex leave at 2pm daily, taking in areas not otherwise open to the public (£6, 90 minutes).

oNational Maritime MuseumMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.rmg.co.uk/national-maritime-museum; Romney Rd, SE10; h10am-5pm, Sammy Ofer Wing & ground fl galleries to 8pm Thu; dDLR Cutty Sark)F

With its recently opened Sammy Ofer Wing, the National Maritime Museum houses a splendid collection of nautical paraphernalia recounting Britain's brine-soaked seafaring history. Exhibits range from Miss Britain III (the first boat to top 100mph on open water) from 1933, the 19m-long golden state barge built in 1732 for Frederick, Prince of Wales, humdingers such as Cook's journals and Nelson's uniform, complete with bullet hole, and interactive educational displays. Tours depart from the ship's propeller at noon, 1pm and 3pm.

oRoyal ObservatoryHISTORIC BUILDING

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.rmg.co.uk; Greenwich Park, SE10; adult/child £7.70/3.60; h10am-5pm; dDLR Cutty Sark, dDLR Greenwich, dGreenwich)

Affording sublime views of London from a hilltop position within idyllic Greenwich Park, the Royal Observatory was commisioned in 1675 by Charles II to help solve the riddle of longitude. Success was confirmed in 1884 when Greenwich was designated as the prime meridian of the world, and Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) became the universal measurement of standard time.

In the north of the observatory is lovely Flamsteed House and the Meridian Courtyard (where you can stand with your feet straddling the western and eastern hemispheres); admission is by ticket. The southern half contains the highly informative (and free) Astronomy Centre and the Peter Harrison Planetarium ( GOOGLE MAP ; adult/child £6.50/4.50).

Queen’s HouseHISTORIC BUILDING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %020-8858 4422; www.rmg.co.uk/queens-house; Romney Rd, SE10; h10am-5pm; dGreenwich or DLR Cutty Sark)F

The elegant Queen's House is a Palladian peach, designed by Inigo Jones in 1616 for the wife of Charles I. Don't miss the ceremonial Great Hall or the delightful helix-shaped Tulip Staircase.

Cutty SarkSHIP

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.rmg.co.uk/cuttysark; King William Walk, SE10; adult/child £13.50/7; h10am-5pm; dDLR Cutty Sark)

The last of the great clipper ships to sail between China and England in the 19th century has reopened after a serious fire almost scuttled her forever. The vessel has been raised to allow visitors to view the ship from below.

O2NOTABLE BUILDING

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.theo2.co.uk; Peninsula Sq, SE10; tNorth Greenwich)

The 380m-wide circular O2 cost £750 million to build. Once the definitive white elephant, it finally found a winning direction as a multipurpose venue hosting big-ticket concerts, sporting events (it was the gymnastics and basketball venue for the London Olympics) and blockbuster exhibitions. There are dozens of bars and restaurants inside. The O2 is located on the Greenwich Peninsula, just 10 minutes by bus from Greenwich itself.

WORTH A TRIP

ESTORICK COLLECTION OF MODERN ITALIAN ART

Estorick Collection of Modern Italian ArtGALLERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.estorickcollection.com; 39a Canonbury Sq, N1; adult/child £5/free; h11am-6pm Wed-Sat, noon-5pm Sun; tHighbury & Islington)

The outstanding concentration of art in the Estorick Collection of Modern Italian Art in Islington boasts one of the world's leading collections of futurist painting, from such dazzling talents as Umberto Boccioni, Giacomo Balla and Gino Severini.

Royal London Walking Tour

1Sights

1Westminster Hall

2Jewel Tower

3Westminster Abbey

4Supreme Court of the United Kingdom

5Cockpit Steps

6St James's Park

7Guards Museum

8Queen's Gallery

9Royal Mews

10Buckingham Palace

11Queen Victoria Memorial

12Spencer House

13Clarence House

14St James's Palace

15Queen's Chapel

16Statue of Queen Elizabeth II

17St James's Square

18Fortnum & Mason

19Royal Academy of Arts

20Royal Opera Arcade

21Horse Guards Parade

22Banqueting House

23Houses of Parliament

2City Walk
Royal London Tour

Start: Houses of Parliament

End: Houses of Parliament

Length: 4 miles; three to four hours

From Westminster underground station, cross Bridge St to the Palace of Westminster, aka the 1Houses of Parliament. Originally built in 1097, Westminster Hall is the oldest surviving part of the original palace, much of which burned down in October 1834. Following the length of the Houses of Parliament along Abingdon St (which becomes Old Palace Yard) brings you to the 2Jewel Tower, the only other still-extant chunk of the old palace, built in the 14th century for storing Edward III’s royal treasures.

Exit the Jewel Tower to breathtaking 3Westminster Abbey, London’s West Minster (as distinct from the minster in the east – St Paul’s Cathedral) and traditional venue of coronation for the English monarchy. Walking around Parliament Sq, note the 4Supreme Court, within the ornate Middlesex Guildhall, dating from 1913.

Round the corner and walk west along Great George St. Turn left down Storey’s Gate and then right into Old Queen St, before trotting down 5Cockpit Steps, said to be haunted by a headless woman dressed in red! The steps lead down to lovely Birdcage Walk, named after the royal Aviary, which was once situated here. Cross over the road and walk into 6St James’s Park to walk alongside the lake. Near the southwestern end of the park is the 7Guards Museum on the far side of Birdcage Walk.

Walk up Buckingham Gate to the 8Queen’s Gallery and the 9Royal Mews before walking back to aBuckingham Palace and the bQueen Victoria Memorial, dating from 1911, with its grumpy-looking monarch staring down the Mall. Follow the ceremonial route of the Mall (rhymes with ‘shall’) and cross into cGreen Park to head up Queen’s Walk to grand dSpencer House before retracing your steps back to the Mall and on to eClarence House, residence of Prince Charles and former home of Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother.

Continue east along the Mall then walk north up Marlborough Road to fSt James’s Palace and the gQueen’s Chapel opposite. Open during services only, the church interior has exquisite 17th-century fittings. Return to the Mall briefly, then take the steps up alongside a hbronze statue of Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother with King George VI behind her.

Head up Carlton Gardens and take the first left (also Carlton Gardens) and cross over the pedestrian crossing in Pall Mall to reach iSt James’s Sq, surrounded by handsome Georgian architecture. With a statue of King William III at its centre, the private gardens at the heart of the square are open from 10am to 4.30pm on weekdays.

Head up Duke of York St towards the side-on form of St James’s Piccadilly, designed by Christopher Wren, turn left along Jermyn St to cross Duke St St James's and walk up colonnaded Piccadilly Arcade to exit into Piccadilly. On the far side of the road is the impressive entrance of the jRoyal Academy of Arts, founded by George III in 1768, and located within Burlington House. Head back across the road to mint-green kFortnum & Mason, London’s oldest grocery store and holder of many royal warrants.

Walk east along Piccadilly and turn right down Church Pl, then left onto Jermyn St. Take a right at Regent St, then left onto King Charles II St and walk down lRoyal Opera Arcade, London’s oldest shopping arcade (designed by John Nash). From Pall Mall, walk along Cockspur St to pass Trafalgar Sq and head down Whitehall. Walking past the old Admiralty Building, you will reach mHorse Guards Parade, where the mounted troopers of the Household Cavalry change guard daily at 11am (10am Sunday) and a lite-pomp version takes place at 4pm when the dismounted guards are changed. Open daily, the Household Cavalry Museum is here as well. On the far side of Whitehall stands nBanqueting House, with its bust of Charles I on the corner above the door, while continuing south along Whitehall takes you past oNo 10 Downing Street and returns you to the pHouses of Parliament.

Hampstead & Highgate

These quaint and well-heeled villages, perched on hills north of London, are home to a litany of A- and B-list celebrities.

Hampstead HeathPARK

( GOOGLE MAP ; dGospel Oak, Hampstead Heath, tHampstead)

With its 320 hectares of rolling meadows and wild woodlands, Hampstead Heath is a million miles away – approximately four, actually – from central London. A walk up Parliament Hill affords one of the most spectacular views of the city, and on summer days it's picnic heaven. Also bewilderingly popular are the murky brown waters of the single-sex and mixed bathing ponds.

Kenwood HouseHISTORIC BUILDING

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.english-heritage.org.uk; Hampstead Lane, NW3; h10am-5pm; dGospel Oak, Hampstead Heath)F

Kenwood House is a magnificent neoclassical mansion (1764) on the northern side of Hampstead Heath that houses a collection of paintings by English and European masters including Rembrandt, Vermeer, Turner and Gainsborough.

Highgate CemeteryCEMETERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.highgatecemetery.org; Swain's Lane, N6; East Cemetery adult/child £4/free; h10am-4pm Mon-Fri, 11am-4pm Sat & Sun; tArchway)

A Gothic wonderland of shrouded urns, obelisks, broken columns, sleeping angels, classical tomb porticoes and overgrown graves, this boneyard is a sublime Victorian Valhalla. On the eastern side you can pay your respects to the graves of Karl Marx and George Eliot (Mary Ann Evans), but the highlight is the overgrown West Cemetery, where a maze of winding paths leads to the Circle of Lebanon, rings of tombs flanking a circular path and topped with a majestic cedar of Lebanon tree.

Admission to the West Cemetery is by tour only (adult/child £12/6); bookings are essential for weekday tours. Tours of the East Cemetery take place on Saturdays at 2pm (adult/child £8/4). From Archway station, walk up Highgate Hill until you reach Waterlow Park on the left. Go through the park; the cemetery gates are opposite the exit.

Outside Central London

oKew GardensGARDENS

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.kew.org; Kew Rd; adult/child £15/free; h9.30am-6.30pm Apr-Aug, earlier closing Sep-Mar; fKew Pier, dKew Bridge, tKew Gardens)

In 1759 botanists began rummaging around the world for specimens they could plant in the 3-hectare plot known as the Royal Botanic Gardens. They never stopped collecting, and the gardens, which have bloomed to 120 hectares, provide the most comprehensive botanical collection on earth (including the world's largest collection of orchids). The beautiful gardens are now recognised as a Unesco World Heritage Site.

No worries if you don't know your golden slipper orchid from your fengoky or your quiver tree from your alang-alang, a visit to Kew is a journey of discovery for everyone. You can easily spend a whole day wandering around, but if you're pressed for time, the Kew Explorer (adult/child £2/1) is a hop-on/hop-off road train that rolls from Victoria Gate, visiting the gardens' main sights.

Highlights include the enormous early Victorian Palm House, a hothouse of metal and curved sheets of glass; the impressive Princess of Wales Conservatory; the red-brick, 1631 Kew Palace ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.hrp.org.uk/kewpalace; h9.30am-5.30pm Apr-Sep), formerly King George III's country retreat; the cele­brated Great Pagoda designed by William Chambers in 1762; the Temperate House, the world's largest ornamental glasshouse; and the fun Rhizotron and Xstrata Treetop Walkway, 18m up in the air.

Several fabulous vistas (Cedar Vista, Syon Vista and Pagoda Vista) are channelled by trees from vantage points within Kew Gardens. The idyllic, thatched Queen Charlotte’s Cottage ( GOOGLE MAP ; h11am-4pm Sat & Sun Apr-Sep) in the southwest of the gardens was popular with ‘mad’ George III and his wife; the nearby carpets of bluebells are a drawcard in spring. The Orangery near Kew Palace contains a restaurant, cafe and shop.

The gardens are easily reached by tube, but you might prefer to cruise by riverboat from the Westminster Passenger Services Association ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-7930 2062; www.wpsa.co.uk; return adult/child to Kew Gardens £18/9), which runs several daily boats from April to October from Westminster Pier (90 minutes).

oHampton Court PalacePALACE

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.hrp.org.uk/HamptonCourtPalace; adult/child £18.20/9.10; h10am-6pm Apr-Oct, to 4.30pm Nov-Mar; fHampton Court Palace, dHampton Court)

Built by Cardinal Thomas Wolsey in 1514 but coaxed from him by Henry VIII just before Wolsey (as chancellor) fell from favour, Hampton Court Palace is England's largest and grandest Tudor structure. It was already one of the most sophisticated palaces in Europe when, in the 17th century, Wren was commissioned to build an extension. The result is a beautiful blend of Tudor and 'restrained baroque' architecture.

Take a themed tour led by costumed historians or, if you're in a rush, visit the highlights: Henry VIII's State Apartments, including the Great Hall with its spectacular hammer-beamed roof; the Tudor Kitchens, staffed by 'servants'; and the Wolsey Rooms. You could easily spend a day exploring the palace and its 60 acres of riverside gardens, especially if you get lost in the 300-year-old maze.

Hampton Court is 13 miles southwest of central London and is easily reached by train from Waterloo. Alternatively, the riverboats that head from Westminster to Kew continue here (return adult/child £22.50/11.25, three hours).

Richmond ParkPARK

( GOOGLE MAP ; h7am-dusk; tRichmond)

London's wildest park – and the largest urban parkland in Europe – spans more than 1000 hectares and is home to all sorts of wildlife, most notably herds of red and fallow deer.

To get there from Richmond tube station, turn left along George St then left at the fork that leads up Richmond Hill.

Strawberry HillHISTORIC BUILDING

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.strawberryhillhouse.org.uk; 268 Waldegrave Rd, TW1; adult/child £10.80/free; hhouse 2-6pm Mon-Wed, noon-6pm Sat & Sun Mar-Oct, garden 10am-6pm daily; tRichmond, then bus R68)

With its snow-white walls and Gothic turrets, this fantastical and totally restored 18th-century creation in Twickenham is the whimsical work of art historian, author and politician Horace Walpole. Studded with elaborate stained glass, the building reaches its astonishing apogee in the gallery, with its magnificent papier-mâché ceiling. For the full magic, join a twilight tour (£20).

Wimbledon Lawn Tennis MuseumMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %020-8946 6131; www.wimbledon.com/museum; Gate 4, Church Rd, SW19; adult/child £12/7, museum & tour £22/13; h10am-5pm; dWimbledon, then bus 93, tWimbledon)

This museum in leafy Wimbledon details the history of tennis – from its French precursor Jeu de paume to the supersonic serves of today's champions. It’s a state-of-the-art presentation, with plenty of video clips and a projection of John McEnroe in the dressing room at Wimbledon, but the highlight is the chance to see Centre Court from the 360-degree viewing box. During the championships, the museum is only open to ticket holders.

Regular tours of Wimbledon take in Centre Court, No 1 Court and other areas of the All England Club and include access to the museum.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

IAN FRANKLIN: HAMPTON COURT PALACE STATE APARTMENT WARDER

An enthusiastic communicator, Ian Franklin has been a State Apartment Warder at Hampton Court Palace for 17 years.

Costumed Guides & State Apartment Warders

Trained historians, our interpreters wear extremely accurate representations of period clothes, bringing historic scenarios to life. Warders, such as myself, are found in most of the rooms and can answer questions face to face in a very personal way.

Fascinating Palace Facts

The Palace is home to the largest indigenous spider in England. Tegenaria parietina, nick-named the Cardinal Spider after Cardinal Wolsey, can measure up to 20cm from leg-tip to leg-tip. You probably won’t encounter one, but their webs are often seen in places like the Tudor Kitchens and King’s Stairs. If you don’t like spiders – watch out!

And another snippet – Jane Seymour, Henry VIII’s third wife, died at Hampton Court Palace. It is said that as there was no burial place ready, her body was laid out in the Chapel Royal. To prevent Jane’s body decomposing too quickly, her internal organs were removed, and her heart placed in a casket and buried beneath the Chapel altar. There’s no evidence the casket was ever dug up, so the heart could still be buried at the palace.

Favourite Part of the Palace

I love the Chapel Royal. As it’s still used as a place of worship, and visitors are welcome to attend Sunday services, it gives a sense of life and community to the palace.

Recommended Palace Events

Check out the special cooking days in the Tudor Kitchens on the first full weekend in any month, and at Easter and Christmas. Where else in the UK can you regularly see cooks creating Tudor dishes, or meals from period recipes, in the greatest surviving Tudor Kitchens in the country?

Spooky Treats

Our famous ghost tours, which run from Halloween to March, allow visitors to enter the palace after dark, and take in the most 'haunted' areas. You can visit the infamous 'Haunted Galley' in almost total darkness!

WORTH A TRIP

ABBEY ROAD

Abbey Road StudiosHISTORIC BUILDING

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.abbeyroad.com; 3 Abbey Rd, NW8)

Beatles aficionados can't possibly visit London without making a pilgrimage to Abbey Road Studios in St John's Wood. The fence outside is covered with decades of fans' graffiti. Stop-start local traffic is long accustomed to groups of tourists lining up on the zebra crossing to reenact the cover of the fab four's 1969 masterpiece and penultimate swan song Abbey Road. In 2010, the crossing was rewarded with Grade II listed status.

For an entertaining live view of the crossing and highlights of the day's action, check out the fun webcam at www.abbeyroad.com/crossing. To get here, take the tube to St John's Wood, cross the road, follow Grove End Rd to its end and turn right.

City Walk

1Sights

1St Bartholomew-the-Great

2St Bartholomew's Hospital

3Postman's Park

4City Walls

5Museum of London

6Ruins of the Barbicans

7Barbican

8St Alban's

9St Mary Aldermansbury

10Guildhall

11St Mary-le-Bow

12St Mary Aldermary

13St Stephen's Walbrook

14Mansion House

15Equestrian Statue of the Iron Duke

16Royal Exchange

17St Michael, Cornhill

18St Michael's Churchyard

19Leadenhall Market

20Lloyd's of London

2130 St Mary Axe

22Heron Tower

2City Walk
City of London

Start: St Bartholomew-the-Great

End: Heron Tower

Length: 2 miles; two to four hours

It's fitting to start at 1St Bartholomew-the-Great (a five-minute walk southwest from Barbican tube station), as this history-steeped 12th-century church was once a pilgrimage stop for travellers to London.

Head out through the Tudor gatehouse and to your right you'll see the Victorian arches of Smithfield's meat market, on this site just north of the old city walls for 800 years. Executions were held here, most famously the torching of Protestants under Mary I and the grisly killing of Scottish hero William Wallace (Braveheart) in 1305; a plaque on the front of 2St Bartholomew's Hospital commemorates him.

Head back towards the gate and turn right into Little Britain. Follow it as it curves to the right and look out for the large tree marking the entrance to 3Postman's Park. This lovely space includes a touching legacy of Victorian socialism: a tiled wall celebrating everyday heroes.

Coming out of the park, turn right onto Aldersgate, then left and left again into Noble St. You're now inside what was once the old City's 4walls, remnants of which you'll pass on your left. This section was only uncovered after WWII bombs destroyed the buildings covering it. Take the stairs up to the footbridge crossing the street called London Wall towards the 5Museum of London.

Turn left when leaving the museum and follow the Highwalk past 6ruins of the barbicans (defensive towers) that once guarded the northwestern corner of the walls, on your left, with the 7Barbican Centre behind (filling a space bombed out during WWII). At its heart is an arts centre consisting of concert halls, cinemas, galleries, eateries, a library and a school.

Follow the painted lines on the Highwalk for a closer look, or turn right at Pizza Express, take the escalator down to Wood St and head towards the remaining tower of 8St Alban's, a Wren-designed church destroyed in WWII. Turn left and you'll find a sweet garden on the site of 9St Mary Aldermanbury, with a bust of Shakespeare.

Turn right on to Aldermanbury and head to the aGuildhall. Take King St down to Cheapside, cross the road and head right to elegant bSt Mary-le-Bow. The church was rebuilt by Wren after the Great Fire, and then rebuilt again after WWII. The term 'Cockney' traditionally refers to someone born within the sound of this church's bell.

Walk down the west flank of the church and turn left into Bow Churchyard to reach Bow Lane; follow this narrow path south to cSt Mary Aldermary, rebuilt in the Perpendicular Gothic style in 1682 following the Great Fire. Turn left on to Queen Victoria St and then right into Bucklersbury, to spot dSt Stephen's Walbrook directly in front of you. Rebuilt after the Great Fire, the current St Stephen's is one of Wren's greatest masterpieces, with elegant Corinthian columns supporting a beautifully proportioned dome.

Leaving the church, you'll pass eMansion House, built in 1752 as the official residence of the Lord Mayor. As you approach the busy Bank intersection, lined with neoclassical temples to commerce, you might think you've stumbled into the ancient Roman forum (the actual forum was a couple of blocks east). Head for the fequestrian statue of the Iron Duke, behind which a metal pyramid details the many significant buildings here. Directly beyond the statue is the gRoyal Exchange; walk through it and exit through the door on the right, then turn left onto Cornhill.

If you're still not churched out, cross the road to hSt Michael's, a 1672 Wren design that still has its box pews. Hidden in the warren of tiny passages behind the church is its ichurchyard. Head through to Gracechurch St, turn left and cross the road to wonderful jLeadenhall Market. As you wander out the far end, the famous kLloyd’s of London displays its metallic innards for all to see. To the south rises the bulbous, top-heavy form of l20 Fenchurch St (aka the 'Walkie-Talkie') – most impressive from a distance.

Turn left onto Lime St and you'll soon reach the uncompromising wedge of the mLeadenhall Building (aka the 'Cheese Grater'). Ahead of you rises Norman Foster's 180m n30 St Mary Axe (the 'Gherkin'). A short walk beyond, the oHeron Tower is currently the tallest building in the City, from where it's a short walk north to Liverpool Street tube station.