Hay-on-Wye & Mid-Wales

Why Go?

The big draw here is the magnificent upland scenery of Brecon Beacons National Park, with book-loving Hay-on-Wye within its confines and food-loving Abergavenny on its doorstep. By contrast the Powys countryside is Wales at its most rural – a landscape of lustrous green fields, wooded river valleys and small market towns; it's the part that the Industrial Revolution missed. Isolated, sea-battered Ceredigion is home to some of country's most unspoiled beaches, as well as the exuberant hot spot of Aberystwyth. Thrills can be found outside urban areas along lonely trails in the hills and valleys, and on two wheels down narrow country lanes. Central Wales is thoroughly Welsh, with around 40% of people speaking the mother tongue – and more than 50% in Ceredigion.

When to Go

If you're planning on walking, you'll get the most rain-free days between April and July; July and August are generally the warmest months. In May and June, the world's intelligentsia heads to Hay for its literary festival and for philosophy and music at HowTheLightGetsIn. In August, cap off the Green Man and Brecon Jazz music festivals with a spot of bog snorkelling. As the weather starts to cool, fill up at the Abergavenny Food Festival in September, and earn your laurel wreath in Llanwrtyd Wells' mountain-bike chariot race in January.

Best Places to Eat

ACheckers

AHardwick

AFelin Fach Griffin

ASt John's Place

AUltracomida

Best Hikes

APen-y-Fan

AYsgyryd Fawr

ASugar Loaf

ACrug Hywell

AFan Brycheiniog

Hay-on-Wye & Mid-Wales Highlights

1 Soaking up the tranquillity of the remote Vale of Ewyas in the Black Mountains

2 Experiencing charming Hay-on-Wye, a town surrounded by nature but infatuated with books

3 Conquering blustery Pen-y-Fan peak in the heart of the Brecon Beacons

4 Admiring the treasures of India and the sculptured yew paths of Powis Castle

5 Gazing up at Carreg Cennen, Wales' most dramatically positioned fortress

6 Revelling in the high culture and student-inspired high jinks that come together by the seaside at Aberystwyth

7 Exploring a countryside seasoned with Wales' best restaurants in the fields around Abergavenny

8 Reliving the age of steam with a scenic ride to Devil's Bridge on the Vale of Rheidol Railway

2Activities

The Brecon Beacons National Park is the focus for hiking and mountain biking (www.mtbbreconbeacons.co.uk) but Mid-Wales offers numerous other opportunities for outdoor activities. Walkers can follow the region’s main long-distance routes – Offa’s Dyke Path and Glyndŵr's Way national trails – for anything from a couple of hours to a couple of weeks. Touring cyclists can enjoy the quiet lanes and back roads that crisscross the countryside, and there are many opportunities for off-road cycling as well.

Rivers for canoeing include the Wye and Usk, while the coast of Cardigan Bay is the place for sailing and sea kayaking.

8Getting There & Around

The region’s main road artery is the A470 between the Brecon Beacons and Snowdonia. On other roads, expect to be stuck behind farm tractors and slow-moving trucks; just relax, slow down and enjoy the view.

The main railway is the Cambrian Line between Birmingham and Aberystwyth via Shrewsbury and Machynlleth, and the scenic Heart of Wales Line (www.heart-of-wales.co.uk) skirts the Brecon Beacons.

Trying to get anywhere by public bus on a Sunday can be a fool's errand. Most local buses operate Monday to Saturday only, so plan your journey in advance with Traveline Cymru (www.traveline-cymru.info).

Ceredigion

Bordered by Cardigan Bay to the west, buffeted by gun-metal waves and separated from Powys to the east by the barren uplands of the Cambrian Mountains, Ceredigion is one of the most sparsely populated parts of Wales. The Welsh language is strong here, kept alive in rural communities, fishing villages and in Aberystwyth, Wales' esteemed centre of learning. Inland from the rugged cliffs and the clean, isolated beaches, waterfalls and abbey ruins beckon travellers willing to get lost in the maze of narrow country lanes.

Cardigan (Aberteifi)

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Cardigan's present sedate state belies its past greatness – it was the site of the first ever eisteddfod in 1176 and was a busy seaport in the 18th and 19th centuries. The eisteddfod tradition looks set to be revived in the renovated castle, however, and the town makes a good base for coastal walkers.

Cardigan's biggest attractions are DIY walks; it's the start of both the Pembrokeshire Coast Path national trail (nt.pcnpa.org.uk) and the Ceredigion Coast Path (www.ceredigioncoastpath.org.uk), which, in turn, are both part of the Wales Coast Path. Both trails make for good multiday walks; pick up maps at Cardigan's well-stocked tourist office.

1Sights

oCardigan CastleCASTLE

(Castell Aberteifi; GOOGLE MAP ; %01239-615131; www.cardigancastle.com; 2 Green St)

Cardigan Castle holds an important place in Welsh culture as the venue for the first competitive National Eisteddfod, held in 1176 under the aegis of Welsh prince Rhys ap Gruffydd. Intensive restoration work was taking place at Cardigan Castle when we visited. There will be a permanent exhibition on the eisteddfod once it re-opens in 2015, and regular guided tours.

Mwnt ChurchCHURCH

(www.friendsofmwntchurch.co.uk)

Five miles of winding country lanes lead you from Cardigan to this tiny, whitewashed church overlooking Cardigan Bay. It's the oldest church in the region, dating back to the 13th century. It's reasonably well signposted from the roundabout just north of Cardigan.

GuildhallMARKET

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.guildhall-cardigan.co.uk; High St; hMon-Sat)

The neo-Gothic Guildhall (1860) is home to Cardigan Market, which sells everything from antiques to local cheeses and handicrafts.

4Sleeping & Eating

Poppit Sands YHAHOSTEL

(%0845-371 9037; www.yha.org.uk; dm £19, r with/without bathroom £47/42; hdaily Jul & Aug, Tue-Sat Sep-Jun; p)

Reached by the narrowest road imaginable, this hostel is tucked into a hillside overlooking a Blue Flag beach, 4 miles northwest of town. It makes a great base for cycling ventures along the disused railway that follows the river, plus trails near nearby Fishguard and Tregarron, and for water sports in nearby St Davids. There's a well-equipped guest kitchen.

oFforest CampCAMPSITE

(%01239-623751; www.coldatnight.co.uk; Cilgerran; per 3-night stay from £300; #)

Perched on the edge of Teifi Marshes Nature Reserve, 2 miles south of Cardigan, just off the A478, Fforest's large nomad tents, threepis, geodesic domes, camp-shacks and crofters' cottages are a study in how to get close to nature without giving up your creature comforts. Cooking facilities are included and active adventures are organised on land and water.

Ty-Parc B&BB&B

( GOOGLE MAP ; %01239-615452; www.ty-parc.com; Park Ave; s/d £50/65; pW)

Appealing Edwardian house on the western edge of town, featuring five bright en suite rooms decked out in cream shades, with thoughtful touches such as radios in the showers, and fresh flowers.

o25 MileMODERN WELSH

( GOOGLE MAP ; %01239-623625; www.the25mile.com; 1 Pendre; mains £8-16; h10am-9pm Mon-Sat; v#)S

All main ingredients at this 'local eating house' come from within a 25-mile radius, and the menu uses its seasonal produce in simple, beautifully crafted dishes that really hit the spot. The 25 Mile is an informal, friendly place where dog-walkers and families mingle, brought together by what is hands-down the best food in town.

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %01239-613230; www.discoverceredigion.co.uk; Bath House Rd; h10am-5pm)

In the lobby of the Theatr Mwldan.

8Getting There & Around

Hire bikes from New Image Bicycles ( GOOGLE MAP ; %01239-621275; www.bikebikebike.co.uk; 29-30 Pendre; per half-day/day £14/20; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat).

Bus routes include X50 to Aberystwyth (£5.35, 1¾ hours); 407 to Poppit Sands (£1.50, 15 minutes); and 412 to Newport (£3.35, 29 minutes), Fishguard (£3.75, 45 minutes) and Haverfordwest (£4.90, 1½ hours).

Aberystwyth

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Hemmed in between two rocky heads – Pen Dinas and Constitution Hill – and skirted by a long stretch of pebbled beach, compact and cosmopolitan Aberystwyth ('Aber' to its friends) is one of Wales' prettiest towns. Its long promenade is lined with pastel-coloured Georgian buildings.

Aberystwyth is distinguished by the presence of its prestigious university and a correspondingly youthful vibe. It also has a strong Welsh heritage and a rebellious spirit: the now-ruined castle on the rocky headland was once occupied by national hero Owain Glyndŵr in defiance of the English. The town's history, coupled with its lively nightlife, dining scene and spectacular natural setting make Aberystwyth an essential stop along the Ceredigion coast.

Aberystwyth

1Sights

1Ceredigion MuseumC1

2Activities, Courses & Tours

2Vale of Rheidol RailwayD3

4Sleeping

3Glyn GarthA4

4Gwesty CymruC2

5Maes-y-MôrC1

5Eating

6BaravinC1

7UltracomidaB2

6Drinking & Nightlife

8AcademyB3

9Ship & CastleB3

1Sights

National Library of WalesLIBRARY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %01970-632800; www.llgc.org.uk; A487; h9.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat)F

One of the UK's six copyright libraries, the National Library holds an ever-increasing (by 100-plus crates per week!) collection of written material. The Hengwrt Room houses the Welsh literary Holy Grail – the 13th-century Tintern Abbey Bible and the Four Ancient Books, one of which is the 12th-century Black Book of Carmarthen (the oldest existing Welsh poetry collection). The World of Books exhibition charts the history of the written word in Wales, while the Gregynog Gallery features temporary displays.

Constitution HillHILL

( GOOGLE MAP )

Constitution Hill rises from the northern end of the seafront Promenade and on a clear day you can see the Llŷn Peninsula from its blustery top. On the hilltop is a Victorian camera obscura (£1) – the world's largest – that allows you to spy on the people of Aberystwyth. If your, ahem, constitution is not up to walking up the hill, the 1896 cliff railway (Rheilffordd y Graig; GOOGLE MAP ; %01970-617642; www.aberystwythcliffrailway.co.uk; Cliff Tce; adult/child one-way £3/2, return £4/2.50; h10am-5pm Apr-Oct, shorter hours Nov-Mar) can carry you up. Albeit very, very slowly.

Ceredigion MuseumMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %01970-633088; http://museum.ceredigion.gov.uk; Terrace Rd; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat Apr-Sep, noon-4.30pm Mon-Sat Oct-Mar)F

This Edwardian former music hall houses entertaining displays devoted to Aberystwyth's history. Exhibits include anything from Roman coins, farming equipment and knitted woollen knickers to Victorian fashion and the famous Salem painting, in which the face of the Devil is said to be hiding in the old lady's shawl.

2Activities

oVale of Rheidol RailwayHERITAGE RAILWAY

(Rheilffordd Cwm Rheidol; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %01970-625819; www.rheidolrailway.co.uk; Park Ave; adult/child return £18/6; hup to 5 daily Feb-Dec)

Old steam locomotives (built between 1923 and 1938), formerly laden with lead and timber, have been lovingly restored by volunteers. They chug for almost 12 miles high above the picturesque valley of the River Rheidol to Devil's Bridge in a cloud of coal smoke. The trip lasts an hour each way; check the timetable online.

Ystwyth TrailCYCLING, WALKING

Suitable for cyclists and walkers, this 20-mile waymarked route starts from the footbridge on Riverside Tce. It follows for the most part an old rail line from Aberystwyth southeast to Tregaron, at the foot of the Cambrian Mountains. For the first 12 miles it shadows the River Ystwyth, and at the end it enters the Teifi Valley.

4Sleeping & Eating

Maes-y-MôrGUESTHOUSE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %01970-639270; www.maesymor.co.uk; 25 Bath St; s/d £35/55; W)

Yes, that is a launderette. But don't be fooled: venture upstairs from the drying machine and you will find clean, bright, inviting rooms and a warm welcome. Breakfast is not included but there's a kitchen for guest use. A lockable shed is available for bicycles.

Gwesty CymruHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %01970-612252; www.gwestycymru.com; 19 Marine Tce; s/d from £80/100, mains £13-19, 2-course Sunday lunch from £16; W)

This gem of a hotel is a character-filled boutique property with eight stylish, homely rooms (though outside noise can be an issue in room 7). Local slate features throughout, and the elegant little restaurant downstairs serves imaginative dishes such as gingerbread-crusted lamb.

Glyn GarthB&B

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %01970-615050; www.glyngarth.pages.qpg.com; South Rd; s/d from £33/66; W)

A stone's throw from the sea (literally), this friendly B&B is a boon for budget-conscious and solo travellers. Chintzy decor aside, all rooms are cosy and spotless; cheaper rooms share facilities. A full cooked breakfast is thrown in.

oUltracomidaTAPAS, DELI

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %01970-630686; www.ultracomida.co.uk; 31 Pier St; tapas £5-6.70; h10am-5pm Mon, to 9pm Tue-Sat, noon-4pm Sun; v)

Perch at one of the immense communal tables at this deli-cum-tapas-bar and sample the love children of Cymru and España: authentic fábada Asturiana (savoury bean and smoked meat stew), Welsh rarebit, meatballs, patatas bravas (fried cubes potatoes and sauce) and deli platters featuring Spanish and Welsh cold cuts and cheeses. Chase down all this bounty with a wide range of Spanish wines, Asturian and Welsh ciders, and real ales.

BaravinITALIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.baravin.co.uk; Llys y Brenin, Terrace Rd; mains £8-13; h10am-late Mon-Sat ; W)

This busy, buzzy bistro serves Italian food with Welsh touches, such as pizza with Penlan pulled belly pork, and vermicelli with locally sourced clams and cockles. Not hungry? Prop up at the horseshoe-shaped bar with a pint of real ale or an imaginative cocktail-of-the-week.

6Drinking

Thanks to its large student population, during term time you may find yourself sharing a bar with a bunch of toga-clad Romans or cross-dressed schoolgirls.

AcademyBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Great Darkgate St; hnoon-1am Sun-Fri, to 2am Sat)

This former chapel has a mezzanine supported by slender cast-iron columns and red lights illuminating a wooden staircase leading to an eagle-fronted pulpit. Most importantly, it serves cask ales and ciders.

Ship & CastlePUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.shipandcastle.co.uk; 1 High St; h2pm-midnight)

Cosy and welcoming 1830 pub, with sports on the big screen and a respectable selection of real ales on tap.

3Entertainment

Aberystwyth Arts CentreTHEATRE

(Canolfan Y Celfyddydau; GOOGLE MAP ; %01970-623232; www.aberystwythartscentre.co.uk; Penglais Rd)

Stages opera, drama, dance and concerts. There's also a cinema, a contemporary pottery and sculpture gallery, bar and cafe. The centre is on the Penglais university campus.

Aberystwyth Male Voice ChoirTRADITIONAL MUSIC

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.aberchoir.co.uk; Plascrug Ave)

Rehearses at the Aberystwyth Rugby Club from 7pm to 8.30pm most Thursdays.

8Information

Bronglais HospitalHOSPITAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %01970-623131; Caradoc Rd)

Emergency services.

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %01970-612125; www.tourism.ceredigion.gov.uk; Terrace Rd; h10am-5pm; W)

Below the Ceredigion Museum.

8Getting There & Away

Bus

Routes include the T2 to Bangor (£5.40, 3½ hours, two to three daily) via Machynlleth (£4.25, 45 minutes, three to seven daily), Dolgellau (£4.75, 1¼ hours, three to seven daily) and Porthmadog (£5.40, 2¼ hours, two to four daily); and the twice-daily 701 to Carmarthen (£7.80, 1¾ hours), Swansea (£11, 2¾ hours) and Cardiff (£16.50, four hours).

A daily National Express coach heads to/from Welshpool (£12, 1¾ hours), Shrewsbury (£15, 2¼ hours), Birmingham (£30, four hours) and London Victoria (£34, 6¾ hours).

Train

Aberystwyth is the terminus of the Cambrian Line, which crosses Mid-Wales every two hours en route to Birmingham (£28.80, 3½ hours) via Machynlleth (£6.20, 45 minutes), Welshpool (£14.20, 1¾ hours) and Shrewsbury (£19.20, 2¼ hours).

WORTH A TRIP

STRATA FLORIDA ABBEY

Strata Florida AbbeyRUIN

(Cadw; Abaty Ystrad Fflur; www.cadw.wales.gov.uk; B4343; adult/child £3.50/2.65; h10am-5pm Apr-Oct, unattended & free other months)

This ruined Cistercian abbey sits in splendid isolation. To get here, head a mile down a rural road from the village of Pontrhydfendigaid, which is on the B4343, 15 miles southeast of Aberystwyth or 9 miles south of Devil's Bridge. Founded in 1164, the abbey's best-preserved remnant is an arched doorway, decorated with maze-like lines of stone. At the rear of the site, two chapels still have some of their 14th-century tiling, and Welsh chieftains are seeing out eternity in graves found in a small enclosure.

This monastery was once a hub of activity: the industrious monks ran a lead mine, a sheep farm and corn mills; grew wheat; produced peat; and bred freshwater fish.

Devil's Bridge

Mysterious Devil's Bridge (www.devilsbridgefalls.co.uk; adult/child £3.50/2) spans the Rheidol Valley on the lush western slopes of Plynlimon Fawr (752m), source of the Rivers Wye and Severn. Here the Rivers Mynach and Rheidol tumble together in a narrow gorge.

The Mynach is spanned by three stone bridges, stacked on top of each other. The lowest and oldest is believed to have been built by the monks of Strata Florida Abbey before 1188. It's one of many bridges associated with an arcane legend that involves the devil building the bridge on the condition that he gets the first thing to cross it. An old lady outwits the devil by throwing some food over, which her dog chases and everybody's happy – except the devil and, presumably, the dog.

Just above the confluence, the Rheidol drops 90m in a series of spectacular waterfalls. Punch Bowl, a steep 10-minute circuit (£1), takes in the bridges and an emerald pool. The Waterfalls & Nature Trail (£2) is a 40-minute loop through striking hilly countryside, with viewpoints overlooking the 300ft falls en route and an almost vertical descent of 100 steps (Jacob's Ladder).

The Vale of Rheidol Railway heads to Devil's Bridge from Aberystwyth, as does the 18-mile Rheidol Cycle Trail.

Brecon Beacons National Park

Rippling dramatically for 45 miles from Llandeilo in the west, all the way to the English border, Brecon Beacons National Park (Parc Cenedlaethol Bannau Brycheiniog) encompasses some of the finest scenery in Mid-Wales. High mountain plateaux of grass and heather, their northern rims scalloped with glacier-scoured hollows, rise above wooded, waterfall-splashed valleys and green, rural landscapes.

There are four distinct regions within the park, neatly bounded by main roads and offering hundreds of walking routes as well as mountain-biking trails: the wild, lonely Black Mountain in the west, with its high moors and glacial lakes; Fforest Fawr, which lies between the A4067 and A470, whose rushing streams and spectacular waterfalls form the headwaters of the Rivers Tawe and Neath; the Brecon Beacons proper, a group of very distinctive, flat-topped hills that includes Pen-y-Fan ( GOOGLE MAP ) (886m), the park's highest peak; and, from the A40 northeast to the English border, the rolling heathland ridges of the Black Mountains (not to be confused with Black Mountain, singular).

THE DEMISE OF THE BEACONS BUSES

The very useful Beacons Buses service that ferried walkers and cyclists all over the Brecon Beacons on Sundays and bank holidays has been curtailed. The only bus route currently operating is the bike-bus service operated by Cardiff Bus (www.cardiffbus.com), which runs between Cardiff and Brecon (Sundays and bank holidays, late May to September); it interchanges with bus 39A in Brecon and runs between Brecon and Abergavenny twice a day.

Black Mountain (Mynydd Du) & Fforest Fawr

The western half of the Brecon Beacons National Park, centred around Black Mountain, is sparsely inhabited. This lonely land of barren peaks throws down an irresistible gauntlet to hikers.

Fforest Fawr (Great Forest; www.fforestfawrgeopark.org.uk), once a Norman hunting ground, is now a Unesco geopark famous for its varied landscapes, ranging from bleak moorland to flower-flecked limestone pavement and lush, wooded ravines choked with moss and greenery.

1Sights & Activities

A series of dramatic waterfalls lies between the villages of Pontneddfechan and Ystradfellte, where the Rivers Mellte, Hepste and Pyrddin pass through steep forested gorges. The Elidir Trail (2½ miles each way; allow four hours) leaves from the Waterfalls Centre and takes in four falls. This can be combined with the Four Falls Trail for a 12-mile loop (allow six hours), which includes Sgwd-yr-Eira (Waterfall of the Snow), where you can actually walk behind the torrent. Walks on the area are outlined in the national park's Waterfall Country publication (£3.50), available from visitor centres.

Carreg CennenCASTLE

(Cadw; www.carregcennencastle.com; adult/child £4/3.50; h9.30am-5.30pm)

Dramatically perched atop a steep limestone crag high above the River Cennen are the brooding ruins of the ultimate romantic castle, visible for miles in every direction. Originally a Welsh castle, the current structure dates back to Edward I's conquest of Wales in the late 13th century. It was partially dismantled in 1462 during the Wars of the Roses when taken by the Yorkists.

Carreg Cennen is signposted from the A483.

Fan BrycheiniogMOUNTAIN

The finest feature (and the highest point) of Black Mountain is the sweeping escarpment of Fan Brycheiniog (802m), reached via a fairly strenuous 11.5-mile loop from Glyntawe on the A4067.

The initial precipitous ascent of the Fan Hir ridge eases into a spectacular ridge walk, with views of the Llyn y Fan Fawr glacial lake to the east. A steep path climbs up to Fan Brycheiniog and it's worth detouring to climb Fan Foel for the views of Llyn y Fan Fach before following the almost level Bannau Sir Gaer ridge to the Waun Lefrith summit. Head west across pathless terrain to the rocky Carreg yr Ogof, and descend the trail to its east across a wild landscape of limestone sinkholes, marshland and streams.

Dan-yr-Ogof National Showcaves Centre for WalesCAVE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %01639-730284; www.showcaves.co.uk; adult/child £13.75/9; h10am-4pm Apr-Oct; c)

The limestone plateau of the southern Fforest Fawr is riddled with some of the largest and most complex cave systems in Britain. Most can only be visited by experienced cavers, but these three caves are easily accessible on a self-guided tour. Attractions range from the glistening limestone formations of Dan-yr-Ogof Cave and the two waterfalls that feed an underground lake to the high-domed chamber of Cathedral Cave and the Bronze Age finds of the tiny Bone Cave.

Somewhat at odds with the natural attractions are the plexiglass dinosaurs peeking through the trees, some of them locked in mortal combat, and a recreated Iron Age farm with mushroom-like huts. The admission fee covers other child-friendly draws, including a petting zoo and a shire-horse centre.

The complex is just off the A4067, north of Abercraf.

Penderyn DistilleryDISTILLERY

(%01685-810651; www.welsh-whisky.co.uk; Penderyn; tours adult/child £6/4; h9.30am-5pm)

Though Wales has a long history of spirit distillation, this boutique distillery released its first malt whisky only in 2004, marking the resurgence of Welsh whisky-making after a more than 100-year absence due to the popularity of the temperance movement in the late 19th century. Visitors can witness the creation of the liquid fire that's distilled with fresh spring water in a single copper still, then matured in bourbon casks and finished in rich Madeira wine casks. Tours include tastings.

MOUNTAIN SAFETY

The Brecon Beacons are serious mountains. The weather is very changeable and descending fog can obscure visibility within minutes even on a fine day. Wear hiking boots and take warm clothes, waterproofs, food and water, and a map and compass or a GPS. Weather forecasts are available from the Met Office (%0870 900 0100; www.metoffice.gov.uk).

8Information

Garwnant Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

(%01685-722481; www.forestry.gov.uk/garwnant; h10am-4pm; c)

At the head of Llwyn Onn Reservoir, 5 miles north of Merthyr Tydfil on the A470, this is the starting point for a couple of easy forest walks and has a mountain-bike park for children.

Waterfalls CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

(%01639-721795; Pontneathvaughan Rd, Pontneddfechan; h9.30am-1pm & 1.30-5pm daily Apr-Oct, 9.30am-1pm & 1.30-3pm Sat & Sun Nov-Mar)

Information on waterfall walks.

8Getting There & Away

Bus X63 (eight daily Monday to Saturday) stops at Dan-yr-Ogof en route from Brecon (£3.30, 33 minutes) to Swansea (£3.70, one hour).

`2`Walking Tour
Climbing Pen-y-Fan

Start Storey Arms

End Storey Arms

Length 5 miles; three hours

Of all the possible routes up the Brecon Beacons' highest peak, Pen-y-Fan (886m), this loop is reasonably straightforward to follow and the trailhead is easy to find. The ascent is along one of the quieter paths, which avoids the crowds along the 'motorway' – the main route – and offers particularly impressive views along the approach. Carry maps and a GPS (and know how to use it) as fog can descend suddenly.

Start at the 1Storey Arms car park off the A470. A clear trail crosses the moorland that covers the southern approach to the Y Gyrn summit on your left. Once you reach a broad ridge, cross a stile and follow the trail down to the 2River Taf Fawr. The rocky path then heads up the hillside along the right-hand side of the valley. Once you reach the 3steep escarpment edge overlooking the Cwm Llwch Valley and a small lake, if you have the energy, do a 275m detour northwest down along the escarpment edge to the 4Tommy Jones memorial obelisk, commemorating a lost local boy who died here of exposure in 1900.

The main path bears right along the escarpment and rises steeply to the crags that guard the approach to Corn Du (873m). It's a short, steep scramble to 5the Corn Du summit, followed by a short dip and a less precipitous final ascent to the exposed, wind-buffeted top of 6Pen-y-Fan, marked with a large cairn. Walk to the southern edge of the plateau for stupendous views of the Craig Gwaun Taf ridge to the south and the almost vertical drop-off along the northern flank of Craig Cwm Sere ridge. When you're ready to descend, take the path that skirts the eastern flank of Corn Du and leads to a 7major trail junction. Descend into the valley along the obvious trail paved with natural stone. After a mile or so, cross a 8wooden bridge and enter a 9large car park. Bear right and follow the path along the A470 back to Storey Arms.

Brecon (Aberhonddu) & Around

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The handsome stone market town of Brecon stands at the meeting of the River Usk and the River Honddu. For centuries the town thrived as a centre of wool production and weaving. Today it's a handy jumping-off point for the Brecon Beacons, and you'll find a high concentration of hikers and soldiers from the nearby military base in its bars, eateries and outdoor-gear shops. The conical hill of Pen-y-Crug (331m), capped by an Iron Age hill fort, rises northwest of the town, and makes a good objective for a short hike (2.5 miles round trip).

Brecon

1Top Sights

1Brecon CathedralB1

1Sights

2Heritage CentreB1

3Monmouthshire & Brecon CanalC4

2Activities, Courses & Tours

4Bikes + HikesC2

Dragonfly CruisesC4

4Sleeping

5Bridge CafeA3

5Eating

6Roberto'sB3

3Entertainment

7Theatr BrycheiniogC4

1Sights & Activities

oBrecon CathedralCHURCH

(Eglwys Gadeiriol Aberhonddu; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.breconcathedral.org.uk; Cathedral Close)

Perched on a hill above the River Honddu, Brecon Cathedral was founded as part of a Benedictine monastery in 1093. Only the carved font and parts of the nave remain of the original structure, but this stark stone church features an ornate 1937 reredos and a cross that seems to hover in mid-air at the end of the nave.

In the cathedral grounds is a Heritage Centre ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h10am-4.30pm Mon-Sat), cafe and gift shop housed in a restored 15th-century tithe barn.

Monmouthshire & Brecon CanalCANAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

Brecon is the northern terminus of this canal, built between 1799 and 1812 to move coal, iron, limestone and agricultural goods. The 33 miles from Brecon to Pontypool is back in business, transporting a generally less grimy cargo of holidaymakers and river-dwellers.

The busiest section is around Brecon, with craft departing from the canal basin, 400m south of the town centre. Dragonfly Cruises ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %07831-685222; www.dragonfly-cruises.co.uk; adult/child £7.50/4.50; hMar-Oct) runs 2½-hour narrowboat trips and Backwaters Adventure Equipment Ltd (%01873-831825; www.backwatershire.co.uk; kayak/canoe per day £27.50/45) rents kayaks and canoes.

Llangorse LakeLAKE

(Llyn Syfaddan)

Reed-fringed Llangorse Lake, to the east of Brecon, is Wales' second-largest natural lake, but it's barely more than a mile long and half a mile wide. The lake is the Brecon Beacons National Park's main water-sports location, used for sailing, windsurfing, canoeing and water-skiing. Lakeside Caravan Park rents rowing boats (per hour/day £12/30), Canadian canoes (per hour/day £12/36) and Wayfarer sailing dinghies (per hour £25). There's a crannog (lake dwelling) dating back to AD 900 near the northern shore.

Cantref Adventure Farm & Riding CentreHORSE RIDING

(%01874-665223; www.cantref.com; Llanfrynach, Upper Cantref Farm; height more than/less than 93cm £8.75/free; h10.30am-5.30pm)

In the countryside south of Brecon, Cantref operates a child-focused fun farm, complete with pig races, lamb feeding and indoor play areas. The adjoining riding centre offers equestrian lessons, horse treks (£35) into the Brecon Beacons and 20-minute pony rides.

Follow the horseshoe signs down narrow country lanes from the A40, southeast of town.

zFestivals & Events

Brecon Jazz FestivalMUSIC

(www.breconjazz.org; hAug)

On the second weekend in August, Brecon hosts one of Europe's leading jazz events, and there's plenty of free alternative-music events in the local pubs as part of the coinciding Brecon Fringe Festival (www.breconfringe.co.uk).

Brecon BeastSPORTS

(www.breconbeast.co.uk; hSep)

A gruelling mountain-bike challenge over either 31 or 47 miles, held in mid-September. The fee (£30 prepaid online or £35 on the day) covers camping, refreshments en-route, a 'pasta party' and a brag-worthy T-shirt.

4Sleeping & Eating

Brecon

Bridge CafeB&B

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %01874-622024; www.bridgecafe.co.uk; 7 Bridge St; s/d from £45/55; W)

With a particular focus on refuelling weary walkers and mountain-bikers, Bridge Cafe offers three comfortable double rooms with down-filled duvets and crisp, cotton sheets upstairs, and hearty dishes downstairs in cosy surrounds (mains £9 to £13; dinner Friday and Saturday, breakfast on Sundays; bookings advised).

Coach HouseGUESTHOUSE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %07974 328437; www.coachhousebrecon.com; 12 Orchard St; d incl breakfast £95)

This hospitable 19th-century coaching inn is well attuned to the needs of walkers, with a drying room for hiking gear, generous breakfasts (including good vegetarian options) and packed lunches put together by the hosts. The seven stylish, modern rooms, decorated in soothing creams, have ultracomfy beds and good showers.

Roberto'sITALIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %01874-611880; www.robertos.netau.net; St Mary St; mains £9-15; h6-11pm Mon-Sat; v)

Roberto's pairs mostly authentic Italian recipes, executed using fresh local ingredients, with an Italian-style ambience (plastic vines, wine racks). The quality of the specials can be variable, but the pizza hits the spot and the 'planks' – cured meat/fish/veggie platters – are very popular. Service can be slow.

Around Brecon

Beacons BackpackersHOSTEL

(%01874-730215; www.beaconsbackpackers.co.uk; The New Inn, Bwlch; dm £22)

The one thing better than a good hostel is a good hostel inside a 14th-century pub. This compact, friendly place comes with comfy bunks, reliable hot showers, a chillout room with a crackling wood fire, and knowledgeable owners. With good hikes on its doorstep, it's also a great place to mingle with fellow ramblers.

Danywenallt YHAHOSTEL

(%0800 0195 465; www.yha.org.uk; Talybont-on-Usk; dm/r from £18/54, campsites £9; p)

Ideally located for hiking and biking around Talybont Reservoir, this secluded, converted farmhouse lacks a guest kitchen but has a cafe. Camping is available in the orchard. Danywenallt is half way between Brecon and Crickhowell.

oPeterstone CourtHOTEL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %01874-665387; www.peterstone-court.com; A40, Llanhamlach; r from £145; pWs)

At this elegant Georgian manor house, the decor is classic, and the rooms large and comfortable. Its excellent restaurant (mains from £14 to £22) uses produce from the manor's own farm. The views across the valley to the Beacons are superb, and the boutique spa pampers guests with organic products. Llanhamlach is 3 miles southeast of Brecon, just off the A40.

oFelin Fach GriffinRESTAURANT

( GOOGLE MAP ; %01874-620111; www.felinfachgriffin.co.uk; Felinfach; mains £13-20; hnoon-2.30pm & 6-10pm)

Heavy wooden beams and the scent of woodsmoke from the open fires create a cosy, rustic ambience at this award-winning inn. The gourmet kitchen makes the most of local fish, meat and game, and the wine list spans the world. Rooms (single/double from £100/130) are TV-free. The Griffin is 5 miles northeast of Brecon on the A470.

3Entertainment

Brecon & District Male ChoirTRADITIONAL MUSIC

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.breconchoir.co.uk; Llanfaes Primary School, Orchard St; h7-9pm Fri)

For booming harmonies, head to the practice sessions of the local men's choir. Visitors welcome.

Theatr BrycheiniogTHEATRE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %01874-611622; www.brycheiniog.co.uk; Canal Wharf)

The town's main venue for drama, dance, comedy and music. It often hosts big-name touring acts.

8Information

Brecon War Memorial HospitalHOSPITAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %01874-622443; Cerrigcochion Rd)

Emergency services.

National Park Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

(%01874-623366; www.breconbeacons.org; Libanus; h9.30am-5pm)

The Brecon Beacons National Park's main visitor centre has full details of walks, hiking and biking trails, outdoor activities, wildlife and geology. Signposted off the A470 road, 5 miles southwest of Brecon.

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %01874-622485; Market car park; h9.30am-5pm Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm Sun)

8Getting There & Away

Bicycle

Bikes + Hikes ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %01874-610071; www.bikesandhikes.co.uk; Lion Yard; per half-/full day £18/20) rents bikes and offers guided mountain-bike rides. The Taff Trail heads south from here to Cardiff (67km). This forms part of the Lôn Las Cymru national cycling route, which also heads north to Builth Wells (28km).

Bus

Bus routes include the X43 to Abergavenny (£3.40, 40 minutes, 12 daily) via Crickhowell (£2.60, 25 minutes, 13 daily); X63 to Swansea (£7, 2 hours 20 minutes, six daily,) via Dan-yr-Ogof (£3.30, 33 minutes, nine daily); no Sunday service. The 39 runs to Hay-on-Wye (£3.80, 35 minutes, up to 10 daily).

Crickhowell (Crughywel)

This prosperous, picturesque village sits on the northern shore of the River Usk, straddled by an elegant 17th-century stone bridge famous for having 12 arches on one side and 13 on the other. Crickhowell grew up around a Norman motte-and-bailey castle, which was reduced to its present remains of a gatehouse tower and keep by the marauding forces of Owain Glyndŵr. Crickhowell is named after the distinctive flat-topped Crug Hywel.

1Sights & Activities

Crug HywelMOUNTAIN

(Table Mountain)

Crug Hywel (Hywel's Rock; 451m), better known as Table Mountain, rises to the north of Crickhowell. A hike to the top (3 miles round trip) starts behind the White Hart Inn, heads up through the woods, follows a stream and then a stone wall. The summit and the allegedly haunted remains of an Iron Age fort are a short scramble from the path. Exit through the fort gate and follow the path downhill through five stiles and a farmyard.

Tretower Court & CastleHISTORIC BUILDING

(Cadw; www.cadw.wales.gov.uk; Tretower; adult/child £4.75/3.60; h10am-5pm Apr-Oct; p)

Tretower consists of two historic buildings: a 15th-century manor house with a mock-up kitchen, a disembodied calf's head in the pantry, a cheery banquet hall and vast, bare rooms upstairs; and the remains of a Norman motte-and-bailey castle. Access to the 13th-century circular tower is through a vine-and-trellis-bedecked patio and a sheep-filled meadow.

Tretower is 3 miles northwest of Crickhowell on the A479.

zFestivals & Events

Green Man FestivalMUSIC

(www.greenman.net; Glanusk Park; adult/student/child £159/135/5; hmid-Aug; c)

Staged over a weekend in mid-August, 2 miles west of Crickhowell via the B4558, Green Man is an alternative, folk and indie music festival, which also features performance art, comedy, drumming workshops and children's events.

Walking FestivalSPORTS

(www.crickhowellfestival.com; hMar)

Eight-day walking fest in early March, with guided treks and walks, talks on keeping safe in the wilderness, navigating and more.

4Sleeping & Eating

oGwyn DeriB&B

(%01873-812494; www.gwynderibedandbreakfast.co.uk; Mill St; s/d/f £40/65/90; pW#)

The friendly couple who run this homely B&B keep its three modern rooms immaculately clean, and are happy to share their knowledge of the area. Bonuses include iPod docks, fresh fruit in the rooms and an excellent breakfast selection. Connecting rooms are available for family groups.

Tŷ GwynB&B

(%01873-811625; www.tygwyn.com; Brecon Rd; s/d from £40/68; pi)

Once the home of Regency architect John Nash, Tŷ Gwyn is a lovely old Georgian house with four spacious en suite rooms, each themed around a Welsh literary figure. The hosts are exceptionally helpful. It's five minutes' walk from the town centre.

Number EighteenCAFE, BRASSERIE

(%01873-810337; 18 High St; breakfast & lunch £6-7, dinner £10-20; hcafe daily 9am-6pm, restaurant 6-11.30pm Wed-Sat, noon-4pm Sun; v)

By day it's a bright, modern cafe serving good coffee, hearty breakfasts, panini and other light bites, but at night the action shifts to the glassed-in brasserie upstairs. It's a relaxed spot for a burger, steak or pork chop; live music serenades diners on Wednesday evenings.

Nantyffin Cider MillMODERN WELSH

(%01873-810775; www.cidermill.co.uk; mains £11-17; h12.30-2.30pm & 6-9.30pm Wed-Sun)

This 16th-century drovers' inn uses quality local produce to create simple, unfussy dishes, with a focus on meats cooked in the charcoal oven. The dining room is a blend of bare stone, exposed roof beams and designer chairs, set around the original 19th-century cider press. Nantyffin is a mile northwest of Crickhowell on the A40.

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

(%01873-811970; www.visitcrickhowell.co.uk; Beaufort St; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, to 1pm Sun; W)

Has leaflets for local walks.

8Getting There & Away

Bus X43 connects Crickhowell with Abergavenny (£1.20, 20 minutes) and Brecon (£2.60, 42 minutes); no service on Sundays.

Abergavenny (Y Fenni)

Pop 13,420

In a millennium of existence, Abergavenny has played many roles on history's stage: Norman stronghold, tanning and weaving centre and prison for Hitler's deputy. Its enviable location between three of the Black Mountains – Blorenge (561m) to the southwest; Ysgyryd Fawr (486m) to the northeast; and Sugar Loaf (596m) to the northwest – make it a superb base for walkers, while its annual food festival and its acclaimed restaurants attract lovers of fresh, organic and seasonal Welsh cuisine from all over the country, and beyond.

1Sights

Ysgyryd FawrMOUNTAIN

(Skirrid)

Of the glacially sculpted hills that surround Abergavenny, Skirrid (486m) is the most dramatic looking and was once considered holy.

Take the B4521 to the layby at the base of the hill. It's a steep climb from here through the woods along a muddy track. Once you clear the tree line the walk is less steep, with a final short climb to the summit where you'll be rewarded with extravagant views and the ruins of a clandestine Catholic chapel.

Sugar LoafMOUNTAIN

(Mynydd Pen-y-Fâl)

The cone-shaped pinnacle of Sugar Loaf (596m) is a 4½-mile round trip from the Mynydd Llanwenarth viewpoint car park. Take the middle track that follows a stone wall, skirts a wood and climbs steeply uphill, turning right to bisect a grassy ridge before a final steep summit scramble. The descent route flanks the head of the valley.

Head west on the A40; at the edge of town turn right for Sugarloaf Vineyards, then go left at the next two junctions.

oSt Mary's Priory Church CHURCH

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.stmarys-priory.org; Monk St; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat)

The austere interior of St Mary's contains a remarkable treasury of aristocratic tombs, including that of Eva de Braose (d 1246), Lady of Abergavenny. The church was founded at the same time as the castle (1087) as part of a Benedictine priory, but the present building dates mainly from the 14th century, with 15th- and 19th-century additions and alterations. In the northern transept is a monumental 15th-century wooden representation of the biblical figure of Jesse.

Next door, the restored 13th-century tithe barn has been converted into an excellent heritage centre and cafe.

Abergavenny Castle & MuseumMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.abergavennymuseum.co.uk; Castle St; h11am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Sat, 2-5pm Sun)F

The banquet hall of the now-ruined Abergavenny Castle witnessed a terrible act of treachery when Lord William de Braose massacred his dining guests – Seisyll ap Dyfnwal and his men – during a feast on Christmas Day, 1175. The castle keep now houses a small museum devoted to the history of the town.

zFestivals & Events

South Wales Three Peaks TrialSPORTS

(www.threepeakstrial.co.uk; hMar)

Annual walking challenge held in late March.

Abergavenny Festival of CyclingSPORTS

(www.abergavennyfestivalofcycling.co.uk; hJul)

Mid-July lycra-enthusiasts' meet incorporating the Iron Mountain Sportif, a participatory event with 20-mile, 41-mile, 67-mile and 100-mile courses.

Abergavenny Food FestivalFOOD

(www.abergavennyfoodfestival.co.uk; hSep)

The most important gastronomic event in Wales, held on the third weekend in September.

4Sleeping & Eating

Guest HouseB&B

( GOOGLE MAP ; %01873-854823; www.theguesthouseabergavenny.co.uk; 2 Oxford St; s/d from £45/80; pW#)

This family-friendly B&B features six cheerful, eclectically furnished, en suite rooms with mountain views and a mini-menagerie of pigs, rabbits and chickens. The gregarious owners slap up fantastic breakfasts (with good veggie options).

AngelHOTEL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %01873-857121; www.angelhotelabergavenny.com; 15 Cross St; r from £111, cottage from £293; pW)

Abergavenny's top hotel is a fine Georgian building that was once a famous coaching inn. Choose between sleek, sophisticated rooms and luxury cottages nearby. The menus at the informal Foxhunter bar and the refined Oak Room (mains £13 to £28, three-course meals £25) put an international twist on local produce.

Cwtch CafeCAFE

( GOOGLE MAP ; 58 Cross St; mains from £6; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat; v)

This wonderfully friendly cafe entices a crowd of regulars with its homemade cakes, good coffee and lunchtime dishes such as buck rarebit, Canadian pancakes with crispy bacon, quiche and veggie lasagne. Get here early or risk elbowing your neighbour every time you lift your fork.

oHardwickMODERN WELSH

( GOOGLE MAP ; %01873-854220; www.thehardwick.co.uk; Old Raglan Rd, Abergavenny; mains £17-25, 2-/3-course lunch £21/26; h9-11am, noon-3pm & 6.30-10pm)

The Hardwick is a traditional inn with an old stone fireplace and low ceiling beams. Ex–Walnut Tree alumnus Stephen Terry has created a gloriously unpretentious menu that celebrates the very best of country cooking. Attached are eight elegant, modern rooms (from £155). The Hardwick is 2 miles south of Abergavenny on the B4598.

Walnut TreeMODERN WELSH

( GOOGLE MAP ; %01873-852797; www.thewalnuttreeinn.com; Llanddewi Skirrid; mains £19-27, 2-/3-course lunch £25/30; hnoon-2.30pm & 6.30-10pm Tue-Sat)

Established in 1963, Michelin-starred Walnut Tree serves the imaginative meat and seafood creations of chef Shaun Hill, made from fresh, local produce. When we visited, the flavours were merely good rather than outstanding, however, and the service was brusque. The Walnut Tree is 3 miles northeast of Abergavenny on the B4521.

8Information

Nevill Hall HospitalHOSPITAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %01873-732732; Brecon Rd; h24hr)

Emergency service.

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %01873-853254; www.visitabergavenny.co.uk; Swan Meadow, Monmouth Rd; h10am-5pm Apr-Sep, 10am-1pm & 2-4pm Oct-Mar)

Has merged with the Brecon Beacons National Park visitor centre.

8Getting There & Away

Bus

Bus routes include the T4 to Cardiff (£5.90, 2½ hours, 11 daily) and Hereford (£5.30, one hour, six daily); and X43 to Brecon (£3.40, 45 minutes, 12 daily) via Crickhowell (£1.20, 20 minutes).

Daily National Express coaches head to Worcester (£12, 1¾ hours) and Birmingham (£13, three hours).

Train

Direct trains run from Cardiff (£12.70, 45 minutes, regular); Shrewsbury (£27.20, 1¼ hours, regular) via Hereford (£9.90, 25 minutes); and Holyhead (£74, 4¼ hours, two to six daily) via Bangor (£68.10, 3½ hours).

Black Mountains (Y Mynyddoedd Duon)

The hills that stretch northward from Abergavenny to Hay-on-Wye are bleak, untamed and largely uninhabited, their summits and pathways best explored on foot, hoof or two wheels. The scenic and secluded Vale of Ewyas runs through the heart of the area, from Llanfihangel Crucorney to the exposed Gospel Pass (542m), the single-track road winding its way down to Hay-on-Wye in between enchanted-forest-like hedgerows.

1Sights & Activities

Llanthony PrioryRUIN

(h10am-4pm)

Halfway along the Vale of Ewyas lie these atmospheric 13th-century ruins, set among grasslands and wooded hills by the River Honddu. JMW Turner painted the bleak grandeur of the still-standing arches and the chapel's remains in 1794.

Grange Trekking CentreHORSE RIDING

(%01873-890215; www.grangetrekking.co.uk; Capel-Y-Fin; per hour/half-day/day £17/32/52; c)

The friendly Griffiths family offers pony trekking in the Black Mountains for all abilities. B&B accommodation (£38 per person) and camping (£6 per person) are also available.

4Sleeping & Eating

Llanthony Priory HotelINN

(%01873-890487; www.llanthonyprioryhotel.co.uk; r from £80; p)

Seamlessly merging with the priory ruins, and incorporating some of the original medieval buildings, the Abbey Hotel is wonderfully atmospheric, with four-poster beds, stone spiral staircases, and four rooms squeezed into turrets; all share facilities. Hearty pub food, Welsh beers and real ales served.

Skirrid InnPUB

(%01873-890258; www.skirridmountaininn.co.uk; Llanfihangel Crucorney; d £90; p)

Those with a taste for the macabre and a fondness for ghost-hunting will adore this place. Wales' oldest inn (pre-1110) once doubled as a court and more than 180 people were hung here. Just so you don't forget, a noose dangles from the well-worn hanging beam, directly outside the doors to the three old-fashioned bedrooms. Good pub downstairs (mains £7 to £13).

Hay-on-Wye (Y Gelli Gandryll)

Pop 1955

The credit for putting this pretty little town on the literary map goes largely to the charismatic and forthright local maverick Richard Booth, who triggered an explosion in secondhand bookshops by opening his eponymous store in the 1960s and proclaiming himself the King of Hay. A festival of literature and culture followed in 1988, growing in stature every year until it became an international fixture, though old-timers grumble that it has now been hijacked by celebrities and has lost its 'alternative' vibe.

The printed word still rules this town, as evidenced by the number of bookshops and tongue-in-cheek anti-Kindle posters. It's easy for a bibliophile to drift into insolvency here, but Hay is also an excellent base for active pursuits, whether you wish to mount Lord Hereford's Knob (aka Twmpa) or walk Offa's Dyke Path.

2Activities

Drover CyclesCYCLING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %01497-822419; www.drovercycles.co.uk; Forest Rd)

Rents mountain and touring bikes (per half-day/day/week £25/35/100).

zFestivals

Hay FestivalLITERARY

(%01497-822629; www.hayfestival.com; hMay)

The 10-day Hay Festival in late May is Britain's leading festival of literature and the arts. Far more celebrity-driven these days, it consists of readings, workshops, book signings, concerts and club nights, and its internationally famous speakers include the likes of Terry Pratchett, Al Gore, Stephen Fry and Margaret Atwood. Book tickets for headlining acts as early as possible.

HowtheLightGetsInMUSIC, PHILOSOPHY

(howthelightgetsin.org; hJun)

A low-key and appealing week-long philosophy and music event in late June.

4Sleeping & Eating

oBearB&B

( GOOGLE MAP ; %01497-821302; www.thebearhay.com; 2 Bear St; s £55, d £75-95; pW)

This 1590 coaching inn, run by a friendly young owner, retains its historic ambience and combines it with interesting art, sisal floors and bathtubs in each of the bathrooms – succour for tired hikers. The 'romantic' bedroom features a four-poster bed, and the excellent breakfasts include imaginative vegetarian options. Curl up with a book by the immense fireplace.

oOld Black LionPUB

( GOOGLE MAP ; %01497-820841; www.oldblacklion.co.uk; Lion St; s/d £55/99; p)

This traditional coaching inn is Hay's most atmospheric sleeping option. Parts of it date from the 13th century – expect low ceilings, heavy wooden beams and uneven floors. The accumulated weight of centuries of hospitality is cheerfully carried by the current staff. The food (mains from £13 to £19) is leagues beyond pub grub: think stuffed Guinea fowl, roast halibut and beef Wellington.

Hay StablesB&B

( GOOGLE MAP ; %01497-820008; www.haystables.co.uk; Oxford Rd; s/d £40/60; W)

Three modern, homely en suite twins and doubles, decked out in neutral tones, welcome you at this friendly guesthouse. There's a common area and a large, fully equipped guest kitchen. Breakfast is a self-serve affair. The owners are very accommodating.

Tomatitos Tapas BarSPANISH

( GOOGLE MAP ; %01497-820770; 38 Lion St; tapas £2.25-4.95; h11am-11pm; W)

Friendly, bustling Tomatitos combines the atmosphere of everyone's favourite pub with a Spanish-centric menu. Staples such as patatas bravas and calamares aside, the menu's guest stars include mushrooms stuffed with Cabrales cheese and lamb tagine. Wash it down with Spanish, Chilean and Argentine wine by the glass. Book a table in advance or prop up the bar with the locals.

Bookshop CafeCAFE

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.boothbooks.co.uk; 44 Lion St; mains £4-10; h9.30am-4.30pm Tue-Thu, to 7pm Fri & Sat, 11am-4pm Sun; v)

Tucked into the rear of Richard Booth's Bookshop, this sun-filled cafe offers adventurous, modern breakfast and lunch menus with plenty of vegetarian options and greens straight out of its kitchen garden.

oSt John's PlaceMODERN WELSH

( GOOGLE MAP ; %07855 783799; stjohnsplacehay.tumblr.com; Lion St; mains £12-16; h6-10pm Thu-Sat)

The menu at this intimate restaurant inside St John's Chapel is limited, but each of the three-to-four unusual starters, mains and desserts is conceived and executed with imagination and flair. Expect the likes of brown shrimp with duck egg, palm sugar and chilli; mackerel with samphire; and date and pecan tart.

6Drinking & Entertainment

Blue BoarPUB

( GOOGLE MAP ; Oxford Rd; h9am-11pm)

This creeper-clad, family-run traditional pub is ideal for whiling away a wet afternoon with a pint of Timothy Taylor's ale, a home-cooked lunch of Glamorgan sausage, and a good book.

Globe at HayLIVE MUSIC, PERFORMING ARTS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %01497-821762; www.globeathay.org; Newport St; h10am-midnight Thu-Sat, to 5pm Sun, 6-11pm Tue; W)

This converted Methodist chapel wears many hats: cafe, bar, music venue, theatre and all-round community hub. It hosts DJs, world music, comedy, theatre, film, festivals such as HowTheLightGetsIn and political talks.

7Shopping

Richard Booth's BookshopBOOKS

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.boothbooks.co.uk; 44 Lion St; h9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sat, 11am-5pm Sun)

The most famous, and still the best; has a sizeable Anglo-Welsh literature section, and a Wales travel section.

Murder & MayhemBOOKS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %01497-821613; 5 Lion St; h10am-5.30pm Mon-Sat)

Body outline on the floor, monsters on the ceiling, and stacks of detective fiction, true crime and horror.

Hay Cinema BookshopBOOKS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %01497-820071; www.haycinemabookshop.co.uk; Castle St; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat, 10am-5.30pm Sun)

Converted cinema housing a huge collection of books about filmmaking and cinema.

Mostly MapsMAPS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %01497-820539; www.mostlymaps.com; 2 Castle St)

Exquisite antiquarian maps and prints, many hand-coloured. Hours vary; call ahead.

Addyman BooksBOOKS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %01497-821136; www.hay-on-wyebooks.com; 39 Lion St; h10am-5.30pm)

A dedicated sci-fi room and plenty of books on art, photography and architecture within a 19th-century Transylvanian church interior.

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %01497-820144; www.hay-on-wye.co.uk; Oxford Rd; h10am-1pm & 2-5pm)

The helpful tourist office stocks a free guide and map profiling all of Hay's bookshops (most bookshops stock the map, too).

8Getting There & Away

Buses 39, 39A and 39B stop in Hay-on-Wye, en route between Brecon (£3.80, 32 minutes, three to seven daily) and Hereford (£8.40, one hour).

Powys

By far Wales' biggest county, Powys is named after the ancient Welsh kingdom that succeeded Roman rule. Overwhelmingly rural, it is dotted with charming little villages. Along the border, the communities of Knighton and Presteigne play host to hikers tackling the 177-mile Offa's Dyke Path national trail – the symbolic line that separates Wales from England. Sheltered by the Cambrian Mountains to the west, this county isn't just green in a literal sense – successful conservation efforts have brought the threatened red kite back from brink of extinction, and Machynlleth has long been a focal point for the nation's environmental aspirations.

Llanwrtyd Wells (Llanwrtyd)

Pop 630

Llanwrtyd (khlan-oor-tid) Wells is one strange little town: mostly deserted, it becomes packed to the rafters with an influx of contestants and their merry-making supporters during its many oddball festivals. At the beginning of July Llanwrtyd is also busy with attendees of the Royal Welsh Show, held in nearby Builth Wells, which involves everything from gussied-up livestock to lumberjack competitions. According to the Guinness Book of Records, Llanwrtyd is the UK's smallest town – some local residents even claim that in order to cling onto this status there's a periodic cull.

LLANWRTYD'S UNCONVENTIONAL EVENTS

While mulling over how to encourage tourism in Llanwrtyd, some citizens started an inspired roll call of unconventionality. There's something on most months (see www.green-events.co.uk) but here are some of the wackiest.

Saturnalia Beer Festival & Mountain-Bike Chariot RacingBEER, SPORTS

(hDec)

Roman-themed festival that includes a 'Best-Dressed Roman' competition, the devouring of stuffed bulls' testicles and a chariot race.

Man vs Horse MarathonSPORTS

(hmid-Jun)

One of Llanwrtyd's many oddball events, this marathon has been held every year since 1980 and has resulted in some tense finishes. Two-legged runners have won only twice, most recently in 2007.

World Bog Snorkelling ChampionshipsSPORTS

(hAug)

Competitors are permitted wetsuits, snorkels and flippers in order to traverse a trench cut out of a peat bog, but may use no recognisable swimming stroke and may surface only to navigate. Spin-off events include Mountain-Bike Bog Snorkelling and the Bog-Snorkelling Triathlon, both held in July.

Real Ale Wobble & RambleSPORTS

(hNov)

Held in conjunction with the Mid-Wales Beer Festival, this event sees cyclists and walkers following waymarked routes (10, 15 or 25 miles, or 35 miles for the 'wobblers' on bikes), and supping real ales at the 'pintstops' along the way.

Mari LlwydNEW YEAR

(New Year Walk In)

A revival of the ancient practice of parading a horse's skull from house to house while reciting Welsh poetry.

4Sleeping & Eating

Ardwyn HouseB&B

(%01591-610768; www.ardwynhouse.co.uk; Station Rd; s/d £60/80; pW)

This beautifully restored art nouveau house wins you over with its yesteryear grandeur and the congeniality of its young owners. Some rooms have claw-foot baths and rural views, and there is oak parquet flooring, period wallpaper, and a guest lounge with a pool table and bar.

Plasnewydd B&BB&B

(%01591-610293; www.plasnewydd90.co.uk; Irfon Tce; s/d £35/60; pW)

Located in the heart of town, this spick-and-span B&B has numerous fans thanks to its warm, cosy, individually styled rooms, an extensive breakfast spread (which caters well for vegetarians) and the accommodating attitude of its owners. There's a drying room for wet cycling gear, and other nice touches include delicious homemade Welsh cakes.

oCarlton RiversideWELSH

(%01591-610248; www.carltonriverside.com; Irfon Cres; mains £13-27; h12.30-3pm Mon-Sat, 7-10.30pm Tue-Sat; pW)

This upmarket restaurant-with-rooms has a boutique feel. The restaurant executes classic dishes (slow-cooked pork, roast lamb, fillet steak) with aplomb. The rooms (single/double £50/65) are modern, simple and tasteful, and cater to bon vivants, with late breakfasts and check-outs.

Drovers RestWELSH

(%01591-610264; www.food-food-food.co.uk; Y Sgwar; mains £15-21; h10.30am-3.30pm & 7.30-9.30pm Tue & Thu-Sat, 12.30-2.30pm Sun; W)

The menu at the Drovers, a well-regarded restaurant-with-rooms, showcases some adventurous pairings of ingredients, plucked from the best local produce. The three-course Sunday lunches (£14.95) are particularly good value, and the owners run regular cooking classes, including a Welsh Cooking Day (£185).

6Drinking

Neuadd Arms PUB

(%01591-610236; www.neuaddarmshotel.co.uk; Y Sgwar)

A focal point for the community, Neuadd Arms hosts the farmers' dogs on the couch in front of the fire and brews its own real ales (including seasonal offerings). All this is complemented by an unusually good bar-food menu.

8Getting There & Away

Bus 48 heads to Builth Wells (£2.20, 23 minutes, six daily Monday to Saturday).

Llanwrtyd is on the Heart of Wales (www.heart-of-wales.co.uk) railway line, with direct services to Swansea (£10.60, 1¾ hours, two to four daily) via Llandeilo (£5, 44 minutes); and Shrewsbury (£13.40, two hours, two to four daily) via Llandrindod Wells (£4, 30 minutes) and Knighton (£7, 1¼ hours).

Llandrindod Wells (Llandrindod)

Pop 5310

This spa town struck gold in Victorian times by touting its waters to the well-to-do gentry who rolled in for rest and recuperation following the arrival of the railway in 1864. Though its heyday is long past, this languid place is worth a stop to admire the grand architecture of the era, such as the Gwalia on High St, the elaborate iron and woodwork of the original Victorian shopfronts on Middleton St, the 1865 signal box on the train station platform and the Pump Room.

1Sights

Rock ParkPARK

( GOOGLE MAP )

The sulphur and saline springs of the forested Rock Park were used as far back as Roman times, and the Victorians sought out their therapeutic properties when the spa Pump Room was built in 1867. The allure of pungent-smelling water diminished by the 1970s, but these days you can still wander past the blue-and-cream cast ironwork of the building and drink from the salty-tasting, iron-rich Chalybeate Spring beside Arlais Brook: apparently the water is good for treating gout, rheumatism, anaemia and more.

National Cycle CollectionMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %01597-825531; www.cyclemuseum.org.uk; Temple St; adult/child £4/2; h10am-4pm Tue-Fri Apr-Oct)

The art nouveau Automobile Palace houses more than 250 bikes, tracing the progression from clunky boneshakers to slick modern-day examples, such as the reserve bike of the 1992 Olympic gold medallist Chris Boardman. Curios include penny farthings, bamboo bikes from the 1890s and the vertiginous 'Eiffel Tower' of 1899.

Llandrindod LakeLAKE

Just southeast of the centre is a sedately pretty, tree-encircled lake constructed at the end of the 19th century to allow Victorians to engage in sedate rowing.

Radnorshire MuseumMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %01597-824513; www.powys.gov.uk/radnorshiremuseum; Temple St; adult/child £1/free; h10am-4pm Tue-Sat)

Small but entertaining, this museum offers a taste of local history. Look out for the carved sheila-na-gig figure with a prominent vulva; a 12th-century log boat; and a special centenary exhibition on WWI.

zFestivals & Events

Victorian FestivalCULTURAL

(www.victorianfestival.co.uk; hAug)

In the middle of August Llandrindod Wells indulges in nine days of capering in 19th-century costume.

4Sleeping

The CottageB&B

( GOOGLE MAP ; %01597-825435; www.thecottagebandb.co.uk; Spa Rd; s/d £43/65)

The original owner of this large, appealing Edwardian house requested that no room be made square. The end result? Comfortable, odd-angled twins, doubles and a single, all with heavy wooden furniture and without TV, some with funky wallpaper, and all presided over by the irrepressibly chatty host, who makes his own delicious preserves.

Metropole HotelHOTEL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %01597-823700; www.metropole.co.uk; Temple St; s/d from £98/126; pWs)

The grand dame of Llandrindod's hotels, turreted Metropole retains an old-fashioned elegance – particularly in the lobby. The facilities, however, are modern, and include a spa and sizeable pool. What some of its staff lack in the congeniality department, the hotel makes up for with its sheer size, and its brasserie is one of the better dining options in town.

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %01597-822600; www.llandrindod.co.uk; Temple St; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat)

In the old town hall.

8Getting There & Around

Bus routes include the T4 to Cardiff (£11, 2¾ hours, four daily), Brecon (£8.50, one hour, six daily), Builth Wells (£2, 22 minutes, seven daily) and Newtown (£4.80, 48 minutes, six daily); and X47 to Rhayader (£2.60, 25 minutes, six daily).

Llandrindod is on the Heart of Wales railway line, with direct services to Swansea (£12.20, 2¼ hours, two to four daily) via Llanwrtyd Wells (£4, 30 minutes), and Shrewsbury (£11.20, 1½ hours) via Knighton (£4.50, 35 minutes).

Rhayader (Rhaeadr Gwy)

Pop 1825

This small town, infamous in the mid-19th century for the Rebecca Riots, in which farmers disguised as women rebelled against unfair taxation, is a sleepy place that revolves around its Wednesday livestock market. Skirted by the River Wye, the town is a gateway for walkers and cyclists bound for the nearby Elan Valley and the 136-mile Wye Valley Walk, which passes through town; and draws visitors to the daily red-kite feeding at a local farm.

1Sights & Activities

Elan ValleyOUTDOORS

(Cwm Elan)S

In the early 19th century, dams were built on the River Elan (pronounced 'ellen'), west of Rhayader, in order to supply a rapidly expanding Birmingham. The 70-sq-mile watershed has been turned into an important wildlife conservation area, with red kites and other rare bird species now flourishing. The Elan Valley Visitor Centre (%01597-810880; www.elanvalley.org.uk; h10am-4.30pm Mar-Oct), 3 miles from Rhayader on the B4518, downstream of the lowest dam, has leaflets on the estate's 80 miles of nature trails and rents bicycles.

The 8-mile Elan Valley Trail, a walking, horse-riding and cycling path, starts just west of Rhayader at Cwmdauddwr and mostly follows the line of the long-gone Birmingham Corporation Railway alongside the River Elan and its reservoirs. The wall of water gushing from the Pen-y-Garreg dam is particularly impressive.

The Elan Valley Visitor Centre arranges numerous events for visitors, including birdwatching safaris and helicopter tours.

Gigrin Farm Red-Kite Feeding StationBIRDWATCHING

(%01597-810243; www.gigrin.co.uk; South St, A470; adult/child £5/3; h2pm Nov-Mar, 3pm Apr-Oct)

Once the most common bird of prey throughout Britain, by the 19th century the red kite was flirting with extinction. Now, visitors to Gigrin Farm can watch conservation efforts in action from strategically placed hides. Once the meat scraps (from a local abattoir) are spread on the field, the kites descend, swooping acrobatically – as many as 400 at a time – followed by crows, and later ravens and buzzards.

Clive Powell Mountain Bike CentreMOUNTAIN BIKING

(%01597-811343; www.clivepowell-mtb.co.uk; West St; h9am-5.30pm, closed Thu)

Mountain/hybrid-bike rental (per day £24/16) and all-inclusive mountain-biking 'Dirty Weekends', which hit trails around the Elan Valley and are run by a former cycling champion.

8Getting There & Away

Buses include the weekday X47 to Aberystwyth (£3.85, 1¾ hours, one daily) and Llandrindod Wells (£2.60, 22 minutes, six daily); and X75 to Shrewsbury (£9, 2¾ hours, one daily) and Newtown (£4.50, one hour, twice-daily).

Presteigne (Llanandras)

Pop 2055

Pressed right up against the English border, Presteigne (www.presteigne.org.uk) is a bohemian little place, lined with attractive old buildings.

1Sights

Radnorshire ArmsHISTORIC BUILDING

(High St)

One of the most impressive buildings in town is the half-timbered Radnorshire Arms, the former private residence of Sir Christopher Hatton, alleged lover of Queen Elizabeth I.

Judge's LodgingHISTORIC BUILDING

(%01544-260650; www.judgeslodging.org.uk; Broad St; adult/child £7.50/3.90; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun Mar-Oct )

The Judge's Lodging offers an intimate glimpse into Victorian times through a wander led by audioguide through the town's 19th-century courthouse, lock-up and the apartments where circuit judges used to stay. You'll 'meet' a motley crew of characters along the way.

4Sleeping

oOld VicarageB&B

(%01544-260038; www.oldvicarage-nortonrads.co.uk; Norton; s/d from £78/112 ; p)

The Old Vicarage is a three-bedroom, gay-friendly, boutique B&B that makes you feel as if you're on the set of a Victorian period drama, and serves up sumptuous three-course dinners. It's in the town of Norton, 1.5 miles north of Presteigne on the B4355.

8Getting There & Away

Bus 41 heads to Knighton (£1.85, 15 minutes, up to eight Monday to Saturday).

Knighton (Tref-Y-Clawdd)

Pop 3010

Hilly Knighton (www.visitknighton.co.uk) sits midway along the Offa's Dyke Path national trail and at one end of the Glyndŵr's Way national trail, a 132-mile walking route to Welshpool.

4Sleeping & Eating

Offa Dyke HouseB&B

(%01547-528886; www.offadykehouse.com; 4 High St; s/d from £49/75; pW)

Centrally located Offa Dyke House provides succour to weary hikers with its three sumptuous rooms, countryside views and delicious home-cooked dinners.

Horse & Jockey InnB&B

(%01547-520062; www.thehorseandjockeyinn.co.uk; Station Rd; mains bar £5-9, restaurant £9-18)

The town's best refuelling option is the Horse & Jockey, a horseshoe-shaped 14th-century coaching inn. You can eat in the bar or on the sunny terrace, or opt for a substantial meal at the restaurant.

8Information

Tourist Office & Offa's Dyke CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

(%01547-528753; www.offasdyke.demon.co.uk; West St; h10am-5pm Apr-Oct, to 4pm Mon-Sat Nov-Mar)

The two-in-one Tourist Office & Offa's Dyke Centre is full of information for walkers and interactive displays about the dyke, a section of which runs behind the centre.

8Getting There & Away

Train destinations from Knighton include Swansea (£15.80, 3¼ hours, two to four daily) via Llanwrtyd Wells (£7, 1¼ hours) and Llandrindod Wells (£4.50, 34 minutes), and Shrewsbury (£9.50, 50 minutes, two to four daily). Bus 41 heads to Presteigne (£1.85, 15 minutes, up to eight Monday to Saturday).

OFFA'S DYKE PATH

They say that good fences make good neighbours, but King Offa may have taken the idea a bit far. The 8th-century Mercian king built Offa's Dyke, Britain's longest archaeological monument, to mark the boundary between his kingdom and that of the Welsh princes. Even today, though only 80 miles of the dyke remains, the modern Wales–England border roughly follows the line it defined.

The Offa's Dyke Path national trail criss-crosses that border around 30 times in its journey from the Severn Estuary near Chepstow, through the beautiful Wye Valley and Shropshire Hills, to the coast at Prestatyn in North Wales. The dyke itself usually takes the form of a bank next to a ditch, although it's overgrown in some places and built over in others. The trail often strays from the dyke, covering an astonishing range of scenery and vegetation, including river valleys, hill country, oak forests, heathland and bracken, conifer forest, green fields, high moors and the mountainous terrain of the Clwydian Ranges in the north.

While it can be walked in either direction, it's best done south to north, with the wind and sun mainly on your back. Most people take 12 days to complete the 177-mile walk, though it's wise to allow at least two rest days, bringing your adventure to an even two weeks.

The best sources of information about the route are Offa's Dyke Centre in Knighton and www.nationaltrail.co.uk/offasdyke.

Becky Ohlsen

Newtown (Y Drenewydd)

Pop 11,360

Newtown used to be a major textiles centre but these days it's as somnolent as Heaven on a Sunday. Its big claim to fame is that Robert Owen (1771–1858), the factory reformer, founder of the cooperative movement and 'father of Socialism', was born and died here. His life and legacy are on display at the Robert Owen Museum (%01686-622510; www.robert-owen-museum.org.uk; The Cross) (which was under renovation at the time of writing).

A more contemporary attraction, Davies Gallery (Oriel Davies; %01686-625041; www.orieldavies.org; The Park; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat), often hosts edgy exhibitions. Its glassed-in Relish Cafe (mains £5-7) is the best place for light bites and the shop sells funky handmade jewellery by local designers.

Splendid half-timbered 1651 farmhouse Highgate (%01686-623763; www.highgatebandb.co.uk; Bettws Cedewain; s/d from £55/85; pW#) makes for a bucolic retreat near Newtown. It offers understated decor, heavy oak beams, inglenook fireplaces and hospitable owners.

Bus routes include the X75 to Shrewsbury (£4.50, 1½ hours, six daily) via Welshpool (£2.20, 35 minutes, seven daily), and the T4 to Cardiff (£14, 3¾ hours, three daily) via Brecon (£4.80, two hours, six Monday to Saturday). Daily National Express coaches run to Aberystwyth (£10, 1¼ hours) and London (£34, 5½ hours).

Newtown is on the Cambrian train line between Aberystwyth (£12.50, one hour 20 minutes, five to eight daily) and Birmingham (£19, 1¾ hours, five to eight daily).

Montgomery

Genteel Montgomery sits around a market square lined with Georgian houses in stone and brick, near a well-preserved section of Offa's Dyke Path national trail.

1Sights

St Nicholas' ChurchCHURCH

(Church Bank; h9am-dusk)

The appealing 13th-century St Nicholas' Church has a vaulted ceiling decorated with intricate coloured bosses, a carved altar screen and an elaborate Elizabethan tomb.

Montgomery CastleRUIN

F

The ruins of the 13th-century Montgomery Castle rise from the craggy outcrop above the town, and there are picture-perfect views of Montgomery along the short walk from the car park to the castle.

5Eating

oCheckersMODERN BRITISH

(%01686-669822; www.thecheckersmontgomery.co.uk; Broad St; mains £18-28, r from £145; hlunch Wed-Sat, dinner Thu-Sat; W)

This truly excellent restaurant-with-rooms is possibly the main drawcard of Montgomery. Its Modern British menu, put together from fresh, locally sourced ingredients, and its first-rate service have earned it a Michelin star. There are five stylish, contemporary rooms upstairs.

8Getting There & Away

Bus X71 stops in Montgomery five times daily (Monday to Saturday) en route from Newtown (£2.20, 19 minutes) to Welshpool (£1.85, 16 minutes).

DON'T MISS

POWIS CASTLE & GARDEN

oPowis CastleCASTLE

(NT; %01938-551944; www.nationaltrust.org.uk; adult/child castle & gardens £11.80/5.90, garden only £8.70/4.30; hgarden 10am-6pm, castle 12.30-5pm)

Surrounded by magnificent gardens, just over a mile south of Welshpool, Powis Castle was originally constructed in the 13th-century by Gruffydd ap Gwenwynwyn, Prince of Powys, and subsequently enriched by generations of the Herbert and Clive families. The castle's highlight, the Clive Museum, houses exquisite treasures brought back from India and the Far East by Clive of India (British conqueror of Bengal at the Battle of Plassey in 1757) and his son Edward, who married the daughter of the first Earl of Powys.

The extravagant mural-covered, wood-panelled interior, the mahogany beds, tiger skins and what is one of Wales' finest collection of paintings proclaim the family's wealth, while the Clive Museum, with its cache of armour, bejewelled weapons, textiles, diaries and letters is testimony to a life richly lived in colonial India. You may spot a gold tiger's head encrusted with rubies and diamonds – one of only two to survive from the throne of Tipu Sultan, as well as delicately carved ivory chess pieces.

The baroque garden is peerless, dotted with ornamental lead statues and an orangery, formal gardens, wilderness, terraces and orchards.

Machynlleth

Pop 2235

It was in little Machynlleth (ma-hun-khleth) that Welsh hero Owain Glyndŵr established the country's first Parliament in 1404. But even that legacy is close to being trumped by the town's reinvention as the green capital of Wales – thanks primarily to the Centre for Alternative Technology (CAT).

1Sights

oCentre for Alternative Technology (CAT)ECO-CENTRE

(Canolfan y Dechnoleg Amgen; GOOGLE MAP ; %01654-705950; www.cat.org.uk; Pantperthog; adult/child £8.50/4; h10am-5pm; pc)S

Founded in 1974 in a disused slate quarry, CAT is a pioneer education centre and an ecologically driven laboratory that believes that all of Britain's energy needs can be met through biomass, hydro, solar and wind power. A water-balanced funicular whisks you up to the primarily outdoor display area that covers 3 hectares and is devoted to environmentally friendly construction, renewable energy sources, organic gardening and alternative technologies.

To get to the CAT from Machynlleth, take the 32, X32 or 34 bus (£1.20, six minutes)

Interactive eco-games, pond dipping and the Mole Hole's gigantic subterranean dwellers keep younger visitors entertained. CAT hosts workshops for children during the main school holidays and offers an extensive program of courses for adults throughout the year at its state-of-the-art WISE building. It also works with local communities at a grassroots level and advises relevant government bodies on how Britain can adapt to environmental challenges in a sustainable manner. There's also an increasing focus on on-site demonstrations, talks and tours.

oMOMA WalesGALLERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %01654-703355; www.momawales.org.uk; Penrallt St; h10am-4pm Mon-Sat)F

Housed partly in a neoclassical chapel (1880), the Museum of Modern Art exhibits contemporary Welsh art, such as photography, dramatic Snowdonia landscapes and sculpture. The annual Machynlleth Festival, which combines music events with masterclasses and talks, takes place here in late August.

Owain Glyndŵr CentreMUSEUM

(Canolfan Owain Glyndŵr; GOOGLE MAP ; %01654-702932; www.canolfanglyndwr.org; Maengwyn St; adult/child £2.50/1; h10am-4pm)

Housed in a rare example of a late-medieval Welsh town house, the eponymous Centre charts the life and times of Owain Glyndŵr, a Welsh independence hero. Displays (some of which are interactive) focus on his military campaigns against the English – so successful initially that by 1404 he controlled most of what is now Wales – as well as his subsequent, swift downfall.

2Activities

Dyfi Mountain BikingMOUNTAIN BIKING

(www.dyfimountainbiking.org.uk)

Dyfi maintains three waymarked mountain-bike routes from Machynlleth: Mach 1 (10 miles), 2 (15 miles) and 3 (19 miles), each of which is more challenging than the last. The group also maintains the custom-built 15km Cli-machx loop trail in the Dyfi Forest, near Corris, with an extension planned. Each May the same crew runs the Dyfi Enduro (www.summitcycles.co.uk/enduro), a noncompetitive, long-distance mountain-bike challenge limited to 650 riders.

4Sleeping & Eating

Reditreks BunkhouseBUNKHOUSE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %07590-282374; www.reditreks.co.uk; Heol Powys; dm/f £17.55/55; pW)S

Run by an outdoor enthusiast involved with Enduro cycling events (www.summitcycles.co.uk/enduro), this comfy, ecofriendly bunkhouse is a fantastic base for self-catering cyclists. The owner has cycle trail maps on hand and the three rooms are spacious and warm. Bring your own bedding and towels.

Wynnstay HotelINN

( GOOGLE MAP ; %01654-702941; www.wynnstay-hotel.com; Maengwyn St; s/d from £59/90, mains £12-20; pW)

The rooms at this erstwhile Georgian coaching inn (1780) have old-fashioned decor and uneven floors, but wi-fi works in most rooms. The menu at the rustic bar-eatery revels in local meats, flying in the face of Machynlleth's veg-warrior image. The on-site pizzeria serves some of the UK's best pizza, including a sensational version topped with goats cheese and chargrilled vegetables.

Number Twenty OneMODERN WELSH

( GOOGLE MAP ; %01654-703382; www.numbertwentyone.co.uk; 21 Maengwyn St; mains £10-17; hnoon-10pm Wed-Sun; vc)

This bright and friendly little bistro is consistently packed full of happy customers thanks to its mantra (local, sustainable); its roster of fresh, expertly executed dishes (spiced lamb chops, pearl-barley risotto, slow-cooked pork belly); and its professional service. A warm welcome is extended to children, and there are homemade cakes to munch on between meals.

Farmers MarketMARKET

(www.machynllethmarket.co.uk; Maengwyn St; hWed)

This market has been held for more than seven centuries and remains a lively affair, with produce, baked goods and bric-a-brac for sale.

8Getting There & Away

Routes include the T2 to Aberystwyth (£4.25, 40 minutes, three to six daily) and Bangor (£5.40, 2¾ hours, two to five daily) via Dolgellau (£3.45, 35 minutes), Porthmadog (£4.75, 1¾ hours) and Caernarfon (£5.40, 2½ hours).

Machynlleth is on both the Cambrian and Cambrian Coast train lines. Destinations include Aberystwyth (£6.20, 35 minutes, five to eight daily) and Birmingham (£21.80, 2½ hours, five to eight daily) via Newtown (£9.50, 42 minutes). Train services to Pwllheli and Porthmadog have been replaced by bus services until further notice.

Hay-on-Wye & Mid-Wales

Hay-on-Wye & Mid-Wales

Why Go?

When to Go

Best Places to Eat

Best Hikes

Hay-on-Wye & Mid-Wales Highlights

Ceredigion

Cardigan (Aberteifi)

Aberystwyth

WORTH A TRIP

STRATA FLORIDA ABBEY

Devil's Bridge

Brecon Beacons National Park

THE DEMISE OF THE BEACONS BUSES

Black Mountain (Mynydd Du) & Fforest Fawr

MOUNTAIN SAFETY

2Walking TourClimbing Pen-y-Fan

Brecon (Aberhonddu) & Around

Brecon

Around Brecon

Crickhowell (Crughywel)

Abergavenny (Y Fenni)

Black Mountains (Y Mynyddoedd Duon)

Hay-on-Wye (Y Gelli Gandryll)

Powys

Llanwrtyd Wells (Llanwrtyd)

LLANWRTYD'S UNCONVENTIONAL EVENTS

Llandrindod Wells (Llandrindod)

Rhayader (Rhaeadr Gwy)

Presteigne (Llanandras)

Knighton (Tref-Y-Clawdd)

OFFA'S DYKE PATH

Newtown (Y Drenewydd)

Montgomery

DON'T MISS

POWIS CASTLE & GARDEN

Machynlleth

`2`Walking Tour
Climbing Pen-y-Fan