Iguazú Falls, Brazil & Argentina
Iguazú Falls, Brazil & Argentina
One of the planet’s most awe-inspiring sights, the Iguazú Falls are simply astounding. A visit is a jaw-dropping, visceral experience, and the power and noise of the cascades – a chain of hundreds of waterfalls nearly 3km in length – live forever in the memory. An added benefit is the setting: the falls lie split between Brazil and Argentina in a large expanse of national park, much of it rainforest teeming with unique flora and fauna. The falls are easily reached from either side of the Argentine-Brazilian border.
Two Days in Iguazú Falls
Spend the first day taking in the sweeping views of the waterfalls from the Brazilian side. On day two, cross over to Argentina for a close-up look at the Garganta del Diablo, take a boat trip along the river and then visit Isla San Martín.
Four Days in Iguazú Falls
Spend day three on the Argentine side of the falls, exploring the rainforest-lined Sendero Macuco, where you can spy birds, monkeys and other wildlife, then take a swim at the base of the small waterfall. On day four, head out to Itaipú Binacional for a look at one of the largest dams on the planet.
Arriving in Iguazú Falls
Located 9km south of the Argentine side of the falls, Cataratas del Iguazú International Airport (www.aa2000.com.ar/iguazu) has flights to Buenos Aires and Cordoba.
On the Brazilian side, Foz do Iguaçu International Airport has flights to major Brazilian cities as well as Lima.
Where to Stay
The towns of Foz do Iguaçu, Brazil, and Puerto Iguazú, Argentina have abundant accommodation options. There are also two high-end hotels near the falls: Meliá Iguazú (www.melia.com) in Argentina and Belmond Hotel das Cataratas (www.belmond.com) in Brazil.
TOP EXPERIENCE
Visiting the Falls
While the Argentine side, with its variety of trails and boat rides, offers many more opportunities to see individual falls close up, the Brazilian side yields the more panoramic views. You can easily make day trips to both sides of the falls, no matter which side of the border you’re on.
Great For…
yDon’t Miss
The platform overlooking the deafening cascade of the Garganta del Diablo.
8Need to Know
Parque Nacional Iguazú (
%03757-491469; www.iguazuargentina.com; adult foreigners/Mercosur/Argentines AR$600/480/310, child AR$150/120/100; 
h8am-6pm) , Argentina; Parque Nacional do Iguaçu (%45 3521-4400; www.cataratasdoiguacu.com.br; Hwy BR-469, Km 18; adult foreigners/Mercosur/Brazilians R$62/49/36, child R$10; h9am-5pm), Brazil.
5Take a Break
On the Brazilian side, have a buffet lunch on the terrace at Restaurante Porto Canoas (www.cataratasdoiguacu.com.br; Parque Nacional do Iguaçu; buffet R$59.90; hnoon-4pm).
oTop Tip
To beat the crowds (and congestion along the narrow gangways), get to the falls by 9am.
Parque Nacional Iguazú, Argentina
On the Argentine side of the falls, this park has loads to offer and involves a fair amount of walking. The spread-out entrance complex ends at a train station, with departures every half-hour to the Cataratas train station, where the waterfall walks begin, and to the Garganta del Diablo. You may prefer to walk: it’s only 650m along the Sendero Verde path to the Cataratas station, and a further 2.3km to the Garganta.
Garganta del Diablo
A 1.1km walkway across the placid Río Iguazú leads to one of the planet’s most spectacular sights, the ‘Devil’s Throat.’ The lookout platform is perched right over this amazingly powerful, concentrated torrent of water.
From Cataratas train station, train it or walk the 2.3km to the Garganta del Diablo stop. The last train to the Garganta leaves at 4pm and we recommend taking it, as it’ll be a somewhat less crowded experience. If you walk, you’ll see quite a lot of wildlife around this time of day, too.
Circuito Inferior
This circuit (1400m) descends to the river, passing delightfully close to falls on the way. At the end of the path prepare for a drenching at the hands of Salto Bossetti if you’re game. Just short of here, a free launch makes the short crossing to Isla San Martín. At the same junction you can buy tickets for the popular boat rides under the falls.
Circuito Superior
The Circuito Superior (1750m) is entirely level and gives good views of the tops of several cascades and across to more. A recently constructed final section crosses a large swath of the Iguazú river, ending above the powerful Salto San Martín before wending its way back across river islands.
Isla San Martín
From the end of the Circuito Inferior, a free launch takes you across to this island with a trail of its own that gives the closest look at several falls, including Salto San Martín, a huge, furious cauldron of water. When the water is high – and this is the case more often than not – island access is shut off.
Iguazú Jungle Explorer
Offers three adventure tours (%03757-421696; www.iguazujungle.com). Most popular is the short boat trip leaving from the CircuitoInferior that takes you right under one of the waterfalls for a high-adrenalin soaking (AR$1000), while the Paseo Ecológico (AR$400) is a wildlife-oriented tour in inflatable boats upstream from the falls.
Sendero Macuco
This 3.5km jungle trail leads through dense forest to a nearly hidden waterfall. It’s a rare opportunity to explore the park independently. Six interpretive stations explain the flora, including bamboo, palmitos and pioneer plants. The white-bearded manakin and toco toucan live in these parts, as does a troupe of brown capuchin monkeys.
You can swim at the base of the waterfall but take care and don’t head out into the river.
Safaris Rainforest
Using knowledgeable guides, this outfit (%03757-491074; www.rainforest.iguazuargentina.com) is the best option for appreciating Parque Nacional Iguazú’s flora and fauna. It offers combined driving-walking excursions: the Safari a la Cascada takes you to the Arrechea waterfall (AR$560, 90 minutes); the Safari en la Selva (AR$660, two hours) is better, a trip in a less-touristed part of the park that includes explanations of Guaraní culture.
Parque Nacional do Iguaçu, Brazil
Brazil’s section of the falls offers fabulous panoramic views. You can’t miss the shiny entrance to Parque Nacional do Iguaçu, which houses bathrooms, ATMs, lockers, souvenir shops, left-luggage facilities and a vast parking lot. You can purchase your ticket in advance on the website and pick it up in the preferential line at the ticket windows, or buy from on-site machines (if you have a chip-in-pin card). Once ticketed, you will be directed to board a free double-decker bus, which departs every 10 minutes. In addition to the main event, the park and its environs offers trails, boat trips, whitewater rafting and other nature-focused adventures.
Waterfall Trail & Views
Once you’re in the park and ready to visit the falls, take the Parque Nacional do Iguaçu bus to the third stop at Belmond Hotel das Cataratas. Here you can pick up the main waterfall observation trail, Trilha das Cataratas (‘Waterfall Trail’), a 1200m trail following the shore of the Iguaçu River, terminating at the stunning Garganta do Diabo.
An elevator heads up to a viewing platform at the top of the falls at Porto Canoas, the last stop of the double-decker buses. Porto Canoas has a gift shop, a couple of snack bars and an excellent buffet restaurant.
Macuco Safari
Under concession from the national park, Macuco (%45 3529-6262; www.macucosafari.com.br; Av das Cataratas, Km 25, Parque Nacional do Iguaçu; boat trip R$215, excursions R$61-515) is the designated adventure operator on the Brazilian side of the falls. The main event is the namesake safari, which involves a wet-and-wild boat ride on rapids and waterfalls, but they also offer trekking, bird-watching, whitewater-rafting and other nature-centric activities. To reach Macuco, get off the double-decker bus at the second stop.
oDid You Know?
Thousands of years before they were ‘discovered’ by Europeans, the falls were a holy burial place for the Tupi-Guaraní and Paraguas tribes.
Trilha das Bananeiras
The Bananeiras Trail is a 1.5km walk passing lagoons and observing aquatic wildlife, ending at a jetty where you can take boat rides or silent floating excursions in kayaks down to Porto Canoas. If you plan to do any of these, chat with one of the agents touting them around the park visitor center; they can get you a discount.
Trilha do Poço Preto
A 9km guided hike (get off the bus at the first stop) through the jungle on foot, by bike or on an electric cart. The trail ends at Taquara Island, where you can kayak or take a boat cruise to Porto Canoas. You can also return via the Bananeiras Trail.
oWildlife
On the falls trails you’ll see large lizards, coatis, monkeys and birds, but you’ll see much more on one of the few trails through the dense forest.
Foz do Iguaçu, Brazil
The Brazilian city of Foz do Iguaçu went through a period of frenzied growth during the 18 years that Itaipú Dam was under construction (completed in 1982), when the population increased more than fivefold. These days, it’s a fairly average town, but it makes a fine base for exploring the famed waterfalls nearby as well other area attractions such as Itaipú Binacional and Parque das Aves.
1Sights
Parque das AvesBird Sanctuary
(Bird Park; %45 3529-8282; www.parquedasaves.com.br; Av das Cataratas, Km 17.1; R$45; h8:30am-5pm)
This 5-hectare bird park, located 300m from the entrance to Parque Nacional do Iguaçu, is home to 800-plus species of birds, including red ibis, bare-throated bellbird and flamingos galore. They live in 8m-high aviaries that are constructed right in the forest, some of which you can walk through. Kids and adults freak out alike. Well worth it.
Enthusiasts can go deeper here with Guaraní forest (R$250) and behind-the-scenes (R$200) experiences.
Marco das Três FronteirasViewpoint
(%45 3132-4100; www.marcodastresfronteiras.com.br; Av Gen Meira s/n; 2-11pm; hadult/child R$22/12)
Once little more than an uneventful obelisk, the Parque Nacional do Iguaçu concession folks have now built a small tourist complex around the viewpoint of all three tri-border countries that includes a children’s park, a light and water show, cultural shows and a memorial to Álvar Núñez Cabeza de Vaca – the first European to have recorded the existence of the falls around 1540.
2Activities
In addition to the nature and water-related activities inside Parque Nacional do Iguaçu, Foz offers skydiving (over Itaipú Binacional; R$590) as well as other excursions.
Aguaray Eco EsportesOutdoors
(%45 99158-8826; www.aguaray.com.br; Alameda Caete s/n; R$150)
Arranges a recommended three-hour excursion on the Rio Iguaçu that involves a nature hike, kayak or stand-up paddle board, and visits to waterfalls.
5Eating
Castelo LibanêsMiddle Eastern $
(%45 3526-1218; Vinícius de Moraes 520; mains R$16-60; hnoon-10pm)
Foz’s Lebanese community is second in size only to São Paulo’s; come here to sample the Middle Eastern cuisine. The bakery does great esfihas (open-faced or triangular meat pies); other well-done staples include roast chicken, Lebanese kafta (beef kebabs), shawarma and hummus.
Empório com ArteCafe $$
(Av das Cataratas 569; mains $30-62; h3-11pm Tue-Fri, 2-11pm Sat, 2-10pm Sun; 
W)
This mineiro-run highlight of the Foz scene (‘scene’ used loosely) is full of country charm and swarming with town sophisticates gossiping among a potpourri of mostly Minas Gerais art and handicrafts (all for sale). Decent espresso, elaborate mixed-fruit caipirinhas made with local cachaça, and a few elaborate main courses (eg duck confit in dark-beer reduction) make for rustic-romantic encounters.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Nightlife is hopping along Av Jorge Schimmelpfeng, where you’ll find breezy beer gardens, lively outdoor patio bars and hot-to-trot nightclubs that stay open late. Good outdoor drinking dens include Rafain Chopp (www.facebook.com/rafainchopp; Av Jorge Schimmelpfeng 450; h4pm-2am Mon-Thu, from 2pm Fri-Sun; W) and Capitão Bar (www.capitao.bar; Av Jorge Schimmelpfeng 288; h11:30am-2am; W).
Zeppelin Old BarLive Music
(www.facebook.com/ZeppelinFoz; Raul Mattos 222; h7pm-midnight Tue, 9pm-2am Wed-Sat; W)
Outstanding bar serving up excellent cocktails and live music that spans the gamut from grunge to reggae. The beautiful people congregate from Thursday onwards.
8GETTING THERE & AWAY
Daily flights link Foz do Iguaçu/Cataratas International Airport (IGU; %45 3521-4200; Hwy BR-469, Km 16.5) to Lima and several major Brazilian cities.
Bus 120 ‘Aeroporto/Parque Nacional’ runs to the Brazilian side of the waterfalls from Foz do Iguaçu’s TTU bus station every 22 to 30 minutes from 5:25am to midnight (R$3.55).
For Parque Nacional Iguazú on the Argentine side, catch a Puerto Iguazú bus in Foz do Iguaçu (R$5/AR$20, one hour) on Rua Mem de Sá (Mem de Sá) across from the local bus terminal or along Av das Cataratas every 30 minutes or so between 7am and 7:15pm (less on Sunday).
Itaipú Binacional
With a capacity of 14 million kilowatts, this binational dam is the world’s second-largest hydroelectric power station, and the one that produces the most electricity per year. The impressive structure, at some 8km long and 200m high, is a memorable sight, especially when the river is high and a vast torrent of overflow water cascades down the spillway.
The visitor center (%45 3576-7000; www.turismoitaipu.com.br; Tancredo Neves 6702; h8am-6pm Sun-Thu, to 9pm Fri & Sat) is 12km north of Foz. From here, regular tours (visita panorâmica) depart every 20 minutes between 8:30am to 4:45pm. A variety of other attractions within the complex include a museum, wildlife park and river beaches, and a sunset catamaran tour.
The project was controversial: it plunged Brazil deeply into debt and necessitated the large-scale destruction of rainforest and the displacement of 10,000 people. But it cleanly supplies 75% of Paraguay’s energy needs, and 17% of Brazil’s.
To get to the Itaipú Dam, catch bus 101 (Vila C Norte-Sohab) or 102 (Vila C Sul-Profilurb), among others (R$3.45, 30 minutes). These leave every 30 minutes from Foz do Iguaçu’s Urban Bus Terminal (TTU) (Terminal de Transporte Urbano; %2105-1385; Av Juscelino Kubitschek 1385).
Puerto Iguazú, Argentina
At the end of the road in Argentina, Puerto Iguazú sits at the confluence of the Ríos Paraná and Iguazú and looks across to Brazil and Paraguay. There’s little feeling of community: everyone is here to see the falls or to make a buck out of them, and planning laws seem nonexistent as hotels go up on every street. Still, it’s not unattractive and is quiet and safe, with good transportation connections. There are also many excellent places to stay and eat.
1Sights
Casa Ecológica de BotellasArchitecture
(http://lacasadebotellas.googlepages.com; RN 12, Km 5; AR$100; h9am-6:30pm) 
S
About 300m off the falls road, this fascinating place is well worth a visit. The owners have taken used packaging materials – plastic bottles, juice cartons and the like – to build not only an impressive house, but furnishings and a bunch of original handicrafts that make unusual gifts. The guided visit talks you through their techniques.
Güirá OgaAnimal Sanctuary
(www.guiraoga.com.ar; RN 12, Km 5; adult/child AR$200/150; h9:30am-6pm, last entry 4:45pm) S
On the way to the falls, this is an animal hospital and center for rehabilitation of injured wildlife. It also carries out valuable research into the Iguazú forest environment and has a breeding program for endangered species. You get walked around the jungly 20-hectare park by one of the staff, who explains about the birds and animals and the sad stories of how they got there. The visit takes about 90 minutes.
Full Moon Over the Falls
For five consecutive nights per month, these guided walks (%03757-491469; www.iguazuargentina.com/en/luna-llena) visit the Garganta del Diablo. There are three departures nightly. The first, at 8pm, offers the spectacle of the inflated rising moon; the last, at 9:30pm, sees the falls better illuminated. The price (AR$1100) includes admission and a drink; dinner is extra (AR$500). Book ahead as numbers are limited.
Extra buses from Puerto Iguazú cater for moonwalkers. If the weather is bad, the tour is postponed to the following night or a refund is offered, so allow some flexibility in your plans.
2Activities & Tours
Numerous local operators offer day tours to the Brazilian side of the Iguazú Falls, some taking in the Itaipú Dam and Paraguay shopping as well. Many have offices at the bus terminal. At the port, there are various options for boat trips around the junction of the Paraná and Iguazú rivers. Boats leave every 30 minutes during peak periods. Expect to pay around AR$150 for a one-hour cruise in a small boat.
Iguazú Bike ToursCycling
(%03757-15-678220; www.iguazubiketours.com.ar)
These guys run anything from gentle jaunts through the nearby forest to long vehicle-supported rides through the lesser-visited corners of Parque Nacional Iguazú.
Iguazú KayakKayaking
(%03757-549930; www.iguazukayak.com; AR$700)
Take a paddle between three countries along the Río Iguazú and down to the Río Paraná on this three-hour, 8km kayaking trip.
Cruceros IguazúBoating
(%03757-421111; www.crucerosiguazu.com; Zona Puerto; 2hr cruise AR$390)
Daily two-hour late-afternoon cruises on the Paraná and Iguazú rivers in a large air-conditioned catamaran with a bar and live music on board. You can buy snacks but nothing gourmet.
5Eating
FeriaMarket $
(Feirinha; cnr Av Brasil & Félix de Azara; picadas AR$250-350; h8am-midnight)
A really nice place to eat or have a beer is this market in the north of town. It’s full of stalls selling Argentine wines, sausages, olives and cheese to visiting Brazilians, and several of them put out picadas, grilled meats, other simple regional dishes and cold beer. There’s folk music some nights and a good evening atmosphere.
BocamoraArgentine $$
(%03757-420550; www.bocamora.com; Av Costanera s/n; mains AR$145-250; hnoon-11pm Tue-Sun; W)
A romantic location overlooking two rivers and three nations is reason enough to come to this place just down the hill from the Argentine border marker. It specializes in grilled meats and well-prepared plates of river fish; the food is decent, service is very hospitable and the view is just breathtaking.
La RuedaArgentine $$$
(%03757-422531; www.larueda1975.com; Av Córdoba 28; mains AR$245-480; h5:30pm-midnight Mon-Tue, from noon Wed-Sun; W)
A mainstay of upmarket eating in Puerto Iguazú, this culinary heavyweight still packs a punch. The salads are inventive and delicious, as are the imaginative river-fish (mostly pacú and surubí) creations. Meat with a variety of sauce options is reliably good; the homemade pasta is cheaper but doesn’t disappoint. Service is good but slow. The wine list has a high flagfall.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Quita PenasBar
(%03757-458223; Av Brasil 120; h6pm-late)
A happening open-air bar in the middle of Puerto Iguazú’s little nightlife strip, Quita Penas has an elevated deck and a variety of other spaces below. It serves good food and is a fine place to sink some beers and watch the action. Often has live music.
8GETTING THERE & AWAY
Aerolíneas Argentinas (%03757-420168; www.aerolineas.com.ar; Av Victoria Aguirre 295; h8am-noon & 3-7pm Mon-Fri, 8am-1pm Sat) flies from Iguazú to both Buenos Aires airports, Mendoza via Córdoba or Rosario, Salta and El Calafate (via BA). LAN (www.lan.com) and Andes (www.andesonline.com) also fly the Buenos Aires route. Four Tourist Travel (%03757-420681, 03757-422962; www.ftt.tur.ar) runs an airport shuttle for AR$130 per person that meets most flights.
The bus terminal (cnr Avs Córdoba & Misiones) has departures for all over the country.
8GETTING AROUND
Parque Nacional Iguazú is 20km southeast of Puerto Iguazú. From Puerto Iguazú’s bus terminal, buses leave every 20 minutes for the park (AR$75, 40 minutes) between 7:20am and 7:20pm, with return trips between 7:50am and 8pm. The buses make flag stops along the road.
A taxi from town to the park entrance is AR$300 (AR$550 return).
8BORDER CROSSING
If traveling by bus, at Brazilian immigration in either direction, most bus drivers won’t wait around while you finish visa formalities. Officially, you should get a pass from the driver, get your passport stamped, then wait and reboard the next bus from the same bus company.
On the Argentine side, drivers wait, so with luck and patience you can do this for R$5/AR25.
It’s important you pay attention as drivers ask if anyone needs to stop at immigration on the Brazilian side – but in Portuguese (or Spanish), if at all. Many travelers miss it and end up with serious immigration hassles later (ie hefty fines).
At Argentine immigration, the bus always stops and usually waits for everyone to be processed. Both borders are open 24 hours but bus service ends around 7:15pm.
Many nationalities, including US citizens, require visas to enter Brazil. It’s best to arrange your visa in your home country before coming to South America.