La Paz, Bolivia
La Paz, Bolivia
La Paz is a mad carnival of jostling pedestrians, honking, diesel-spewing minivans, street marches and cavalcades of vendors that seems to reinvent itself at every turn – a jaw-dropping subway in the sky brings you from the heights of El Alto to the depths of Zona Sur in the blink of an eye.
Beneath the blinding altiplano sun, sharp-suited business people flank machine-gun-toting bank guards and balaclava-camouflaged shoeshine boys. Lung-busting inclines terminate in peaceful plazas. This maze of contradictions, where cobblestones hit concrete, and Gothic spires vie with glassine hotels, will amaze all who enter.
Two Days in La Paz
Stroll the cobblestone streets around Calle Jaén, home to the wonderful Calle Jaén Museums, then visit the fascinating Mercado de las Brujas. Dine that evening in award-winning Gustu.
On the second day, hop aboard Mi Teleférico up to El Alto for memorable views. Have dinner in upmarket Sopocachi then catch traditional music at a peña.
Four Days in La Paz
On your third day, take a day trip out of La Paz to Tiwanaku to explore pre-Columbian ruins. Then browse for crafts at Walisuma.
On your fourth day, head out for some adventure, on an adrenaline-fueled ride with Gravity Assisted Mountain Biking. In the evening check out La Paz’ cocktail scene at the speakeasy-style La Costilla de Adán.
Arriving in La Paz
Minibus 212 runs frequently between El Alto International Airport and Plaza Isabel la Católica between around 7am and 8pm (B$3.80). Look for the sign that says ‘Minibus Cotranstur’ just outside arrivals. Heading into town from the airport, this service will drop you anywhere along El Prado.
Radio taxis charge around B$70 to the centre.
Where to Stay
The area around the Mercado de las Brujas (Witches’ Market; between Illampu, Av Mariscal Santa Cruz and Sagárnaga) is a true travelers’ ghetto. To be closer to a wider array of restaurants and a bar or two, consider Sopocachi. For more upmarket luxury, look along the lower Prado and further south in the Zona Sur.
TOP EXPERIENCE
Markets
La Paz’ frenetic markets are easily the highlight of any trip, where modern commerce and culture collide in a wonderful riot of honks, shouts and smells.
Great For…
yDon’t Miss
The strange charms, herbs and amulets of the Mercado de las Brujas.
8Need to Know
You’ll find open-air markets all across town, though the Rosario neighborhood has a notable concentration.
5Take a Break
Mercado Camacho (map Google map; cnr Av Camacho & Bueno, Casco Viejo; snacks B$5-25; 
h7am-9pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat & Sun) makes an ideal lunch stop with stands selling empanadas, fruit juices and chorizo sandwiches.
oTop Tip
Every day is a de facto market day in La Paz, but Saturdays are particularly fun.
Mercado Negro
The narrow cobblestone streets off Max Paredes – the Mercado Negro (map Google map; Black Market; h6am-8pm) – are a good place to start the market experience. Especially interesting are the sections near Graneros (‘designer’ clothes), Tumusla and Isaac Tamayo (everything and anything), and between Santa Cruz and Sagárnaga (tools and building materials). The best place for electronics is along Eloy Salmón. Be especially careful when wandering around this part of town: it’s notorious for light fingers. It’s best to take a taxi here at night.
Mercado Lanza
North of Plaza San Francisco, on Calle Figueroa, the Mercado Lanza (map Google map; Rosario; snacks B$5-25; h6am-8pm) is one of La Paz’ main food markets. It sells all manner of fruits, vegetables, juices, dairy products, breads and canned foods, and there are numerous stalls where you can pick up a sandwich, soup, salteña (filled pastry shells), empanada or full meal. It also houses the splendid Flower Market.
Mercado de las Brujas
The famed Mercado de las Brujas (map Google map; Witches’ Market; La Hechicería) is chock-a-block with stores selling mysterious potions for lovemaking, llama fetuses and Aymará good-luck charms, including frogs. Artisan stores in the area sell oriente wood carvings and ceramics, and Potosí silver. Others deal in rugs, wall hangings, woven belts and pouches. Amid the lovely weavings and other items of exquisite craftsmanship, you’ll find plenty of tourist kitsch, an art form unto itself: Inca-themed ashtrays, fake Tiwanaku figurines, costume jewelry and mass-produced woolens.
Mercado 16 de Julio
To visit the biggest market in Bolivia – some say it’s the largest in South America – you’ll need to hop in a cable car and head up to El Alto, where each Thursday and Sunday the massive Mercado 16 de Julio (El Alto; h6am-3pm Thu & Sun) completely absorbs dozens of city blocks. You can buy everything from new cars to animals, textiles and firearms. For the most part, however, it’s a colossal flea market, the likes of which you won’t soon forget.
Mercado Uruguay
On the far side of El Prado, Mercado Uruguay (map Google map; off Max Paredes, Rosario; snacks B$5-25; h7am-8pm) is purely the domain of adventurous eaters after tiny ispi fish from Lake Titicaca or stews made with unidentifiable offal.
TOP EXPERIENCE
Tiwanaku
The ruins of Tiwanaku make for a good day trip from La Paz for those who want to view a few carved monoliths, archways and arcades, and two decent museums. History buffs will love diving into the myths and mysteries of this lost civilization.
Great For…
yDon’t Miss
The many carved faces along the walls of the Templete Semisubterráneo.
8Need to Know
Ticket Office (Av Puma Punku s/n; B$100; htickets 9am-4pm, site 9am-5pm)
5Take a Break
Restaurante Cabaña del Puma (Av Puma Punku s/n; almuerzo B$25; h9am-6pm) serves decent Bolivian fare next to the ruin entrance.
oTop Tip
Guided tours (
%7724-9572; walipini.tiwanacu@gmail.com; Av Ferrocarril s/n; tour for up to 6 people in Spanish/English/French B$150/180/180) are available in English, French and Spanish, and are highly recommended.
Museo Cerámico
Near the ticket office, this gallery showcases a small collection of the ceramics found at the site, as well as a ceremonially deformed cranium and artifacts from the Chiripa and Wankarani cultures.
Museo Lítico Monumental
The star of the show at this Tiwanaku museum is the massive 8m Monolito Bennett Pachamama, rescued in 2002 from its former smoggy home at the outdoor Templete Semisubterráneo in La Paz. You’ll also find a basic collection of other monoliths and artifacts dug up on-site here. Labeling is in Spanish.
Much of the collection is currently mothballed, as the roof of the relatively new museum is already collapsing.
Megaphones
At the entrance to the Tiwanaku site there are two stone blocks that can be used as megaphones. Entertain yourself for a minute or two with this interesting pre-Columbian, pre-iPod technology.
Akapana Pyramid
Climb the hill up to Tiwanaku’s most outstanding structure, the partially excavated Akapana pyramid, which was built on an existing geological formation. At its base this roughly square, 16m hill covers a surface area of about 200 sq meters. In the center of its flat summit is an oval-shaped sunken area, which some sources attribute to early, haphazard, Spanish excavation. The presence of a stone drain in the center, however, has led some archaeologists to believe it was used for water storage.
Recent findings include craniums, assumed to be war trophies, suggesting the pyramid may have been a ceremonial temple. Others think it was used for the study of astronomy.
Kalasasaya
North of the Akapana Pyramid is Kalasasaya, a partially reconstructed 130m-by-120m ritual-platform compound with walls constructed of huge blocks of red sandstone and andesite. The blocks are precisely fitted to form a platform base 3m high. Monolithic uprights flank the massive entrance steps up to the restored portico of the enclosure, beyond which is an interior courtyard and the ruins of priests’ quarters. Note the size of the top stair – a massive single block.
The Monolito Ponce monolith, with his turban (no doubt covering up his deformed cranium), mask, ceremonial vase and walking stick, sits at the center of the first platform. Some say the stick and the vase are symbolic of the dualism of Andean culture (nature versus nurture).
Other stairways lead to secondary platforms, where there are other monoliths including the famous El Fraile (priest).
Templete Semisubterráneo
East of the main entrance to Kalasasaya, a stairway leads down into the Templete Semisubterráneo, an acoustic, red-sandstone pit structure measuring 26m by 28m, with a rectangular sunken courtyard and walls adorned with 175 crudely carved stone faces. In the 1960s archaeologists tried to rebuild these and used cement between the stones.
Putuni
West of Kalasasaya is a 55m-by-60m rectangular area known as Putuni (Palacio de los Sarcófagos, Palace of the Sarcophagi). It is surrounded by double walls and you can see the foundations of several tombs. About 90% of the artifacts collected by amateur enthusiast Fritz Buck in the early 20th century from these tombs are found in La Paz’ Museo de Metales Preciosos.
Puerta del Sol
At the far northwest corner of Kalasasaya is Tiwanaku’s best-known structure, the 10-ton Puerta del Sol (Gateway of the Sun). This megalithic gateway was carved from a single block of andesite, and archaeologists assume that it was associated with the sun deity. The surface of this fine-grained, gray volcanic rock is ornamented with low-relief designs on one side and a row of four deep niches on the other.
The gateway was most likely originally located in the center of Kalasasaya Platform and was used as a calendar, with the sun striking specific figures on the solstice and equinox.
There’s a smaller, similar gateway carved with zoomorphic designs near the western end of the site that is informally known as the Puerta de la Luna.
Kantatayita
The heap of rubble at the eastern end of the Tiwanaku site is known as Kantatayita. Archaeologists are still trying to deduce some sort of meaningful plan from these well-carved slabs; one elaborately decorated lintel and some larger stone blocks bearing intriguing geometric designs are the only available clues.
oTours From La Paz
Diana Tours (map; www.diana-tours.com) and Vicuña Travel (map; %228-0140; http://vicuna-travel.com) have round-trip guided trips to Tiwanaku from La Paz, leaving daily at 8:30am and returning around 4pm.
Puma Punku
Across the railway line southwest of the Tiwanaku site, you’ll see the excavation site of Puma Punku (Gateway of the Puma). In this temple area megaliths weighing more than 130 tons have been discovered. Like Kalasasaya and Akapana, there is evidence that Puma Punku was begun with one type of material and finished with another; part was constructed of enormous sandstone blocks and, during a later phase of construction, notched and jointed basalt blocks were added.
Note also, in the distance of the site’s northern boundary, the sukakollo, a highly sophisticated system of terraced irrigation.
Aymará New Year
The biggest celebration of the year happens during the Aymará New Year (Machaq Mara; hMar 21, Jun 21, Sep 21). Locals don colorful ceremonial dress and visitors are invited to join the party, drink singani (distilled grape liquor), chew coca and dance until dawn at celebrations that take place on fall and spring equinox, when the rays of the rising sun shine through the temple entrance on the eastern side of Kalasasaya. The big event happens on June 21, when as many as 5000 people, including a large contingent of New Agers, arrive from all over the world. Artisans hold crafts fairs to coincide with the annual celebrations.
oDid You Know?
Nobody knows why Tiwanaku’s population disappeared by 1200, though most archaeologists point to climate change as the likely cause of the civilization’s rapid decline.
Central La Paz
1Sights
2Activities, Courses & Tours
5Eating
6Drinking & Nightlife
1Sights
Calle Jaén MuseumsMuseum
(map Google map; Calle Jaén, Casco Viejo; 4 museums B$20; h9am-12:30pm & 3-7pm Tue-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat & Sun)
La Paz’s best-preserved colonial street is home to four small museums. They are all clustered together and can generally be bundled into one visit. Buy tickets at the Museo Costumbrista (map; cnr Jaén & Sucre; h9am-12:30pm & 3-7pm Tue-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat & Sun) and continue to the Museo de Metales Preciosos (map Google map; Museum of Precious Metals; Jaén 777; h9am-12:30pm & 3-7pm Tue-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat & Sun), Museo del Litoral (map Google map; Museo de la Guerra del Pacífico; Jaén 798; h9am-12:30pm & 3-7pm Tue-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat & Sun) and Casa de Murillo (map Google map; Jaén 790; h9am-12:30pm & 3-7pm Tue-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat & Sun).
Museo de Etnografía y FolkloreMuseum
(map Google map; Ethnography & Folklore Museum; %240-8640; www.musef.org.bo; cnr Ingavi & Sanjinés, Casco Viejo; B$20, with photography B$40; h9am-12:30pm & 3-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4:30 Sat, 9am-12:30pm Sun)
Anthropology buffs should check out this museum, one of the city’s best. The building, itself a real treasure, was constructed in 1720 and was once the home of the Marqués de Villaverde. Highlights include an awe-inspiring collection of ritualistic masks and an exhibition of stunning weavings from around the country. A guided tour is available by calling ahead.
Museo Nacional del ArteMuseum
(map Google map; National Art Museum; www.facebook.com/museonacionaldeartebolivia; cnr Comercio & Socabaya, Casco Viejo; B$20; h9:30am-12:30pm & 3-7pm Tue-Fri, 10am-5:30pm Sat, 10am-1:30pm Sun)
This colonial building was constructed in 1775 of pink sandstone and has been restored to its original grandeur, in mestizo (mixed) baroque and Andino baroque styles. In the center of a huge courtyard, surrounded by three stories of pillared corridors, there is a lovely alabaster fountain. The various levels are dedicated to different eras, with an emphasis on religious themes.
Catedral MetropolitanaCathedral
(map Google map; Plaza Murillo, Casco Viejo)
Although it’s a relatively recent addition to La Paz’s religious structures, the 1835 cathedral is impressive – mostly because it is built on a steep hillside. The main entrance is 12m higher than its base on Calle Potosí. The cathedral’s sheer immensity, with its high dome, hulking columns, thick stone walls and high ceilings, is overpowering, but the altar is relatively simple.
Iglesia de San FranciscoChurch
(map Google map; Plaza San Francisco, Rosario)
The hewed stone basilica of San Francisco was founded in 1548 by Fray Francisco de los Ángeles. The original structure collapsed under heavy snowfall around 1610, but it was rebuilt between 1743 and 1772. The second building is made of stone quarried at nearby Viacha. The facade is decorated with carvings of natural themes such as chirimoyas (custard apples), pine cones and tropical birds.
SopocachiArea
Sopocachi has some of La Paz’ best restaurants and nightspots. You can spend a few hours people-watching on Plaza Eduardo Avaroa, before hoofing up to the wonderful views from Montículo Park.
Mi Teleférico
At 30km-long and growing, Mi Teleférico (Aerial Cable Car System; www.miteleferico.bo; ticket B$3, plus B$2 per line transfer; h6am-11pm Mon-Sat, 7am-9pm Sun) is easily the world’s longest aerial cable-car system. Riders can hop between lines for an additional B$2 per segment (pay in advance), creating endless combinations of ways to travel across the city. One popular trip takes you from the Zona Sur to El Alto via the yellow and green lines.
The thrill of riding above La Paz’ swirling traffic and deep canyons is undeniably cool. There’s more than enough time to cruise down from the center to the Zona Sur for lunch or dinner, and back. Not for the faint of heart.
TTours
La Paz on FootEcotour
(map Google map; %cell 7154-3918; www.lapazonfoot.com; Av Ecuador 2022, Sopocachi; h10:30am-6:30pm Mon-Fri)
This tip-top operation, run by the passionate English-speaking ecologist Stephen Taranto, offers a range of activities, including walks in and around La Paz, Apolobamba, the Yungas, Chulumani, Madidi and Titicaca. The interactive La Paz urban treks (half-day or full-day, fee depending on group size) venture from the heights of El Alto to the depths of the historic center.
Gravity Assisted Mountain BikingMountain Biking
(map Google map; %231-0218, cell 7721-9634; www.gravitybolivia.com; Linares 940, Rosario; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat, 2-6pm Sun)
This knowledgeable, highly regarded and professional outfit has an excellent reputation among travelers and tip-top Kona downhill bikes. Their Dangerous Road Trip (B$850 per person) ends with hot showers, an all-you-can-eat buffet and an optional tour of the Senda Verde animal refuge (www.sendaverde.org; Yolosa; B$100, bear visit extra B$20; h10am-4pm).
Climbing South AmericaClimbing
(map Google map; %cell 7190-3534; www.climbingsouthamerica.com; Linares 940, 2nd fl, Rosario; h9am-6:30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat)
A reputable English-speaking operator for climbing, mountaineering and trekking in the nearby mountains. Also sells great topography and trekking maps.
HanaqPacha TravelTours
(map Google map; %cell 6980-3602; www.hanaqpachatravel.com; Jaén 765, Casco Viejo; h9am-6:30pm)
Runs recommended daily tours to El Alto (B$140) to step inside the prismatic cholets of Aymará architect Freddy Mamani. Also has a daily Tastes of Bolivia tour (B$140) to learn about typical food. Uyuni, Tiwanaku and Rurrenabaque are the focus of longer tours.
7Shopping
WalisumaArts & Crafts
(www.facebook.com/walisuma.org; Aliaga 1231, San Miguel; h10am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 7pm Sat) 
S
For a one-of-a-kind souvenir head to Walisuma, which works with 59 Bolivian artisans. Star items include gorgeous (and ultrasoft) alpaca and vicuña textiles made with natural dyes. There are also quinoa soaps, flavored Uyuni salts and designer sweaters. Prices match the quality.
Bolivian Peñas
Typical of La Paz (and most of Bolivia) are folk-music venues known as peñas. These present traditional Andean music, rendered on zampoñas (pan flutes), quenas (cane flute) and charangos (ukulele-style instrument), as well as guitar shows and song recitals. Most shows happen on Friday and Saturday nights, starting at 9pm or 10pm and running into the wee hours.
Jallalla (map Google map; Indaburo 710, cnr Jaén, Casco Viejo; cover incl cocktail B$30-70; h9pm-1am Tue, Thu, Fri & Sat) Just above the Mamani Mamani Gallery, this is one art-filled peña you won’t want to miss. The top-tier live music goes nicely with authentic Bolivian tapas and creative cocktails.
Peña Huari (map Google map; %231-6225; Sagárnaga 339, Rosario; cover B$105; hshow 8pm) The city’s best-known peña draws tourists and Bolivian business-people. The attached restaurant specializes in Bolivian fare.
Peña Jamuy (map Google map; %cell 7676-7817; www.facebook.com/jamuybolivia; Max Paredes, near Sagárnaga, Rosario; cover B$25-50; h9pm-7am Fri & Sat) Locals flock to this fun two-story Andean-themed venue. It hosts all-night ragers each weekend.
5Eating
Namas TéVegetarian $
(www.namastebolivia.com; Zoilo Flores 1334, San Pedro; mains B$12-30; h8:30am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat; 
v)
Tea lovers take note: the tea menu at this lovable lime-green veggie restaurant is a staggering four pages long! There’s also plenty of quinoa in all forms (falafel, soup, tabbouleh salad) and even a raved-about tofu pad thai. Smoothies, juices and sandwiches round out the well-priced menu.
Los QñapésBolivian $
(www.facebook.com/losqnapes; René Moreno 1283, San Miguel; snacks B$6-15; h3:30-10pm) S
Snack on Bolivian favorites like cuñapé (a cheesy yuca bread), humitas (a steamed corn pie) and masacos (plantains or yucca mashed with meat or cheese) at this always-busy cafe. All of the ingredients are organic and come from within the country.
Popular Cocina BolivianaBolivian $$
(map Google map; www.facebook.com/popularlapazbolivia; Murillo 826, Rosario; 3-course lunch B$50; h12:30-2:30pm Mon-Sat)
The concept of waiting in line for a restaurant doesn’t exist in La Paz, but that’s exactly what you’ll need to do to get into Popular. Seasonal three-course menus put a gourmet spin on the city’s humble lunch spots. Ingredients come fresh from the market and the plates are true works of art. Did we mention that it’s ridiculously affordable?
MagicK Cafe CulturalInternational $$
(map Google map; www.cafemagick.com; Presbítero Medina 2526, Sopocachi; mains B$30-55; h4-11:30pm Tue-Sat; 
Wv)
This funky pescatarian restaurant serves up fig-and-blue-cheese pizza, quinoa tabbouleh and pasta with smoked trout in a lovingly converted Sopocachi home. Vegan and gluten-free options abound, as do good tunes and chill vibes.
TogaAsian $$
(map Google map; %mobile 7650-4643; Av Sánchez Lima 2235, Sopocachi; 4-course meal B$35; h10am-11pm Mon-Sat)
There’s no fixed menu here so you’ll have to put your trust in chef Rubén Gruñeiro as he takes you on a four-course culinary journey mixing Asian flavors with Bolivian produce. With just four tables and an open kitchen, it’s an incredibly intimate experience.
Ali PachaVegetarian $$$
(map Google map; %220-2366; www.alipacha.com; Colón 1306, Casco Viejo; 3/5/7 courses B$100/150/200; hnoon-3pm Tue-Sat & 7-10pm Wed-Sat; Wv)
Locals thought it absurd on so many levels to open a high-end vegetarian restaurant with degustation menus in La Paz’s downtrodden Casco Viejo neighborhood. And it is absurd. Fantastically so! Even carnivores will swoon over the creative plant-based creations and herbaceous cocktails. You’re guaranteed to taste the flavors of Bolivia like never before.
GustuBolivian $$$
(%211-7491; www.gustu.bo; Calle 10 No 300, Calacoto; almuerzo B$95, dinner tasting menu B$430-560, à la carte mains B$95-130; hnoon-3pm & 6:30-11pm; 
pW)
Credited with sparking La Paz’ culinary renaissance, and launched by the Danish culinary entrepreneur Claus Meyer (of Noma fame), this groundbreaking restaurant works to both rescue and showcase underutilized Bolivian ingredients. It’s located in a gorgeous building rich with Andean textiles and offers everything from Andean grains to caiman from the Amazon. Even the wine pairings come from within Bolivia.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Hb Bronze CoffeebarCoffee
(map Google map; http://hb-bronze.com; Plaza Tomás Frías 1570, Casco Viejo; h8:30am-midnight Mon-Sat, 1-9pm Sun; W)
Sleek, earthy and architecturally inspiring – coffee shops don’t get much cooler than Hb Bronze! This sorely needed addition to the Casco Viejo neighborhood offers the strongest brews in the city, and it doubles as a bar by night with 100% Bolivian cocktails, beers and wines. The food is equally memorable.
La Costilla de AdánCocktail Bar
(map Google map; %cell 7207-4518; Armaza 2974, Sopocachi; h9pm-4am Wed-Sat)
Take a dive down the rabbit hole into the mind of owner Roberto Cazola at this supremely surreal speakeasy. Prepare yourself for hundreds of creepy dolls, a dozen hanging bicycles and a night full of wonder next to the roaring fire. There’s no sign out front. Simply ring the bell, wait, and let the magic begin.
Reineke FuchsBeer Hall
(map Google map; www.reinekefuchs.com; Pasaje Jáuregui 2241, Sopocachi; hnoon-3pm & 7pm-late Mon-Fri, 7pm-late Sat)
This woodsy Sopocachi brewhaus features imported German beers, schnappsladen and hearty sausage-based fare. They also make their own Pilsner, dunkel and amber ales, based on centuries-old Deutsch traditions – heady concoctions, indeed.
8INFORMATION
Tourist Information (map; cnr Av Mariscal Santa Cruz & Colombia, Prado; h8:30am-7pm Mon-Fri) Stop by to grab some maps and get detailed information. English is spoken by some staff.
Tourist Information (map; www.facebook.com/Gamlpturismo; Plaza del Estudiante, Prado; h8:30am-7pm Mon-Fri) Maps, flyers and some English-speaking staff.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
El Alto International Airport (LPB; Héroes Km 7, El Alto) is 10km via toll road from the city center on the altiplano. At 4062m, it’s the world’s highest international airport.
BUS
La Paz has three bus terminals/bus areas. You can use the main bus terminal (Terminal de Buses; map; cnr Avs Perú & Uruguay, Challapampa) for most national and international destinations.
8GETTING AROUND
MICRO & MINIBUS
La Paz’ buses charge from B$2 per trip. Look for your destination on a signboard posted in the front window.
TAXI & RIDE SHARE
Radio taxis (with roof bubbles advertising their telephone numbers) are recommended.
A newer solution to safe taxis is to use the Easy Taxi app (www.easytaxi.com/bo, in Spanish). Uber (www.uber.com) is also available in La Paz.