Florida
South Florida
Miami
Fort Lauderdale
Palm Beach
The Everglades
Around the Everglades
Florida Keys
Atlantic Coast
Space Coast
Daytona Beach
St Augustine
Jacksonville
Amelia Island
Southwest Florida
Tampa
St Petersburg
Sarasota
Sanibel & Captiva Islands
Naples
Central Florida
Orlando
Walt Disney World® Resort
Universal Orlando Resort
Florida Panhandle
Tallahassee
Pensacola
Florida
Why Go?
For countless visitors Florida is a place of promises: of eternal youth, sun, relaxation, clear skies, space, success, escape, prosperity and, for the kids, a chance to meet much-loved Disney characters in person.
No other state in America is as built on tourism, and tourism here comes in a thousand facets: cartoon mice, Miami Vice, country fried oysters, Spanish villas, gators kicking footballs, gators prowling golf courses, and of course, the beach. So. Much. Beach.
Don’t think Florida is all marketing, though. This is one of the most genuinely fascinating states in the country. It’s as if someone shook the nation and tipped it over, filling this sun-bleached peninsula with immigrants, country boys, Jews, Cubans, military bases, shopping malls and a subtropical wilderness laced with crystal ponds and sugary sand.
Florida means almost anything: amusement kingdoms, Latin and Caribbean capitals, wild wetlands, artist colonies, and wild surf beaches. This vast, flat peninsula has it all.
When to Go
- Mar–Aug Hot, humid high season sees busy theme parks; beaches peak in summer.
- Oct–Dec Beach towns are quiet until winter snowbirds arrive.
- Feb & Sep Shoulder season sees the region less crowded but still hot.
Best Places to Sleep
A 1 Hotel
Florida Highlights
1 Mallory Square Joining the sunset bacchanal in Key West.
2 Everglades National Park Paddling among alligators and sawgrass in the Everglades.
3 Walt Disney World® Resort Being swept up in nostalgia and thrill rides in Orlando.
4 Wynwood Walls Marvelling at mural after mural in Miami.
5 John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park Snorkelling the continental USA’s most extensive coral reef.
6 Siesta Key Relaxing on these sugar sand beaches, in Sarasota.
7 Salvador Dali Museum Pondering the symbolism of the Hallucinogenic Toreador in St Petersburg.
8 Amelia Island Taking a breather among the greenery of this historic island near the Georgia border.
South Florida
Once you head far enough south in Florida, you’re no longer in ‘the South’ as a regional entity – you’ve slipped those bonds into South Florida, which is truly a hybrid of the USA, the Caribbean and Latin America. Miami is the area’s beating urban heart and one of the few truly international cities in the country. Wealthy oceanfront communities stretch from the Palm Beaches to Fort Lauderdale, while inland, the dreamscape of the Everglades, the state’s most unique, dynamic wilderness, await. And when the state’s peninsula ends, it doesn’t truly end, but rather stretches into the Overseas Hwy which leads across hundreds of mangrove islands to colorful Key West.
Miami
Even if there was no beach, Miami would still have undeniable allure. The gorgeous 1930s hotels lining Ocean Dr are part of the world’s greatest collection of art deco buildings. Tropical motifs, whimsical nautical elements and those iconic pastel shades create a cinematic backdrop for exploring the streets of Miami Beach. Of course, you don’t have to see these architectural beauties at arm’s length. Lavishly restored, Miami’s art deco and mid-century-modern hotels are also the playground for locals and out-of-towners alike, with sunny poolside terraces, artfully designed dining rooms and plush nightclubs.
Chalk it up to Miami’s diverse population, or perhaps its love of always being on the cutting edge. Whatever the reason, creativity is one of the great hallmarks of this city. From art and design to global cuisine, Miami remains ever on the search for bold new ideas, which manifest themselves in surprising ways. You’ll find brilliantly inventive chefs blending Eastern and Western cooking styles, sustainably designed buildings inspired by South Florida ecosystems and open-air galleries where museum-quality artwork covers once-derelict warehouses. The one constant in Miami is its uncanny ability to astonish.
History
It’s always been the weather that’s attracted Miami’s two most prominent species: developers and tourists. But it wasn’t the sun per se that got people moving here – it was an ice storm. The great Florida freeze of 1895 wiped out the state’s citrus industry; at the same time, widowed Julia Tuttle bought out parcels of land that would become modern Miami, and Henry Flagler was building his Florida East Coast Railroad. Tuttle offered to split her land with Flagler if he extended the railway to Miami, but the train man didn’t pay her any heed until north Florida froze over and Tuttle sent him an ‘I told you so’ message: an orange blossom clipped from her Miami garden.
The rest is a history of boom, bust, dreamers and opportunists. Generally, Miami has grown in leaps and bounds following major world events and natural disasters. Hurricanes (particularly the deadly Great Miami Hurricane of 1926) have wiped away the town, but it just keeps bouncing and building back better than before. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Miami earned a reputation for attracting design and city-planning mavericks such as George Merrick, who fashioned the artful Mediterranean village of Coral Gables, and James Deering, designer of the fairy-tale Vizcaya mansion.
Greater Miami
1Top Sights
1Sights
2Activities, Courses & Tours
4Sleeping
5Eating
6Drinking & Nightlife
1Sights
Miami’s major sights aren’t concentrated in one neighborhood. The most frequently visited area is South Beach, home to hot nightlife, beautiful beaches and art deco hotels, but you’ll find historic sites and museums in the Downtown area, street art in Wynwood and galleries in the Design District, old-fashioned hotels and eateries in Mid-Beach (in Miami Beach), more beaches on Key Biscayne, and peaceful neighborhood attractions in Coral Gables and Coconut Grove.
Water and income – canals, bays and bank accounts – are the geographic and social boundaries that divide Miami. Of course, the great water that divides here is Biscayne Bay, holding the city of Miami apart from its preening sibling Miami Beach (along with the fine feathers of South Beach). Don’t forget, as many do, that Miami Beach is not Miami’s beach, but its own distinct town.
1South Beach
South Beach (SoBe) is everything Miami is known for – the sparkling beach, beautiful art-deco architecture, top-end boutiques and buzzing bars and restaurants. South Beach has its glamour, but there’s more to this district than just velvet ropes and high-priced lodging (though there’s a lot of this too). You’ll find some great down-to-earth bars, good eating and excellent museums.
South BeachBEACH
(map Google map; Ocean Dr; 
h5am-midnight)
When most people think of Miami Beach, they’re envisioning South Beach (SoBe). The beach encompasses a lovely stretch of golden sands, dotted with colorful deco-style lifeguard stations. The shore gathers a wide mix of humanity, including suntanned locals and plenty of tourists, and gets crowded in high season (December to March) and on weekends when the weather is warm.
You can escape the masses by avoiding the densest parts of the beach (5th to 15th Sts). Keep in mind that there’s no alcohol (or pets) allowed on the beach.
Art Deco Historic DistrictAREA
(map Google map; Ocean Dr)
The world-famous art-deco district of Miami Beach is pure exuberance: an architecture of bold lines, whimsical tropical motifs and a color palette that evokes all the beauty of the Miami landscape. Among the 800 deco buildings listed on the National Register of Historic Buildings, each design is different, and strolling among these restored beauties from a bygone era is utterly enthralling. Classic art-deco structures are positioned beautifully between 11th and 14th Sts – each bursting with individuality.
oWolfsonian-FIUMUSEUM
(map Google map; 
%305-531-1001; www.wolfsonian.org; 1001 Washington Ave; adult/child $12/8, 6-9pm Fri free; h10am-6pm Mon, Tue, Thu & Sat, to 9pm Fri, noon-6pm Sun, closed Wed)
Visit this excellent design museum early in your stay to put the aesthetics of Miami Beach into context. It’s one thing to see how wealth, leisure and the pursuit of beauty manifest in Miami Beach, but it’s another to understand the roots and shadings of local artistic movements. By chronicling the interior evolution of everyday life, the Wolfsonian reveals how these trends manifested architecturally in SoBe’s exterior deco.
Art Deco MuseumMUSEUM
(map Google map; www.artdecowelcomecenter.com/art-deco-museum; 1001 Ocean Dr; $5; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun, to 7pm Thu)
This small museum is one of the best places in town for an enlightening overview of the art-deco district. Through videos, photography, models and other displays, you’ll learn about the pioneering work of Barbara Capitman, who helped save these buildings from certain destruction back in the 1970s, and her collaboration with Leonard Horowitz, the talented artist who designed the pastel color palette that become an integral part of the design visible today.
New World CenterNOTABLE BUILDING
(map Google map; %305-673-3330, tours 305-673-3331; www.newworldcenter.com; 500 17th St; tours $5; htours 4pm Tue & Thu, 1pm Fri & Sat)
Designed by Frank Gehry, this performance hall rises majestically out of a manicured lawn just above Lincoln Rd. Not unlike the ethereal power of the music within, the glass-and-steel facade encases characteristically Gehry-esque sail-like shapes within that help create the magnificent acoustics and add to the futuristic quality of the concert hall. The grounds form a 2.5-acre public park aptly known as SoundScape Park (map Google map; www.nws.edu; 500 17th St).
MIAMI’S BEST BEACHES
South Beach Miles of sand, people watching, art deco buildings and iconic lifeguard stations – photo opportunities galore!
Crandon Park (map Google map; %305-361-5421; www.miamidade.gov/parks/parks/crandon_beach.asp; 6747 Crandon Blvd; per car weekday/weekend $5/7; hsunrise-sunset; 
p
c
#) Nature and quiet times on this beautiful Key Biscayne beach.
Haulover Beach Park (map Google map; %305-947-3525; www.miamidade.gov/parks/haulover.asp; 10800 Collins Ave; per car Mon-Fri $5, Sat-Sun $7; hsunrise-sunset; p) In North Beach, Haulover provides privacy and tranquility for nudists and clothed bathers alike.
Bill Baggs Cape Florida State Park A picture-perfect lighthouse and miles of sand on Key Biscayne’s southern end.
Boardwalk North Beach’s stretch of gorgeous beach with a laid-back, real-world vibe.
1North Beach
If you’re after fewer people along a gorgeous strip of sand that more than matches South Beach, then North Beach is for you. Instead of art deco, you’ll find the so-called MiMo (Miami Modern) style, of grand buildings constructed in the post-WWII boom days. Although it has fewer restaurants, bars and shops, there’s good quality eating and drinking here, and a colourful and strong local community.
BoardwalkBEACH
(map Google map; www.miamibeachboardwalk.com; 21st St–46th St)
Posing is what many people do best in Miami, and there are plenty of skimpily dressed hotties on the Mid-Beach boardwalk, but there are also middle-class Latinos and Jews, who walk their dogs and play with their kids here, giving the entire place a laid-back, real-world vibe that contrasts with the nonstop glamour of South Beach.
Eden Roc RenaissanceHISTORIC BUILDING
(map Google map; www.nobuedenroc.com; 4525 Collins Ave)
The Eden Roc was the second groundbreaking resort from Morris Lapidus, and it’s a fine example of the architecture known as MiMo. It was the hangout for the 1960s Rat Pack – Sammy Davis Jr, Dean Martin, Frank Sinatra and crew. Extensive renovation has eclipsed some of Lapidus’ style, but with that said, the building is still an iconic piece of Miami Beach architecture, and an exemplar of the brash beauty of Millionaire’s Row.
FontainebleauHISTORIC BUILDING
(map Google map; www.fontainebleau.com; 4441 Collins Ave)
As you proceed north on Collins, the condos and apartment buildings grow in grandeur and embellishment until you enter an area nicknamed Millionaire’s Row. The most fantastic jewel in this glittering crown is the Fontainebleau hotel. The pool here, which has since been renovated, features in Brian de Palma’s classic Scarface.
MIAMI IN…
Two Days
Focus your first day on South Beach. Bookend an afternoon of sunning and swimming with a walking tour through the Art Deco Historic District and a visit to Wolfsonian-FIU, which explains it all. When the sun fades, head to Yardbird where southern comfort cooking gets a Miami foodie makeover.
Next morning, shop for Cuban music at Exquisito Restaurant. Go for a stroll at Vizcaya Museum & Gardens, then enjoy the tropical ambience and exceptional food at 27 Restaurant before sipping cocktails at Broken Shaker.
Four Days
Follow the two-day itinerary, then head to the Everglades on day three and jump in a kayak. For your last day, immerse yourself in art and design in Wynwood and the Design District, followed by a visit to the Museum of Contemporary Art North Miami. In the evening, join the party at Sweet Liberty.
1Downtown Miami
Most of the sights in Downtown are on the north side of the river. While you can walk between a few highlights, it’s handy to use Metromover, the free trolley, or a Citi Bike when you really need to cover some ground.
oHistoryMiamiMUSEUM
(map Google map; %305-375-1492; www.historymiami.org; 101 W Flagler St; adult/child $10/5; h10am-5pm Tue-Sat, from noon Sun; c)
South Florida – a land of escaped slaves, guerrilla Native Americans, gangsters, land grabbers, pirates, tourists, drug dealers and alligators – has a special history, and it takes a special kind of museum to capture that narrative. This highly recommended place, located in the Miami-Dade Cultural Center, does just that, weaving together the stories of the region’s successive waves of population, from Native Americans to Nicaraguans.
Pérez Art Museum MiamiMUSEUM
(map Google map; PAMM; %305-375-3000; www.pamm.org; 1103 Biscayne Blvd; adult/senior & student $16/12, 1st Thu & 2nd Sat of month free; h10am-6pm Fri-Tue, to 9pm Thu, closed Wed; p)
One of Miami’s most impressive spaces, designed by Swiss architects Herzog & de Meuron, integrates tropical foliage, glass, concrete and wood – a melding of tropical vitality and fresh modernism that fits perfectly in Miami. PAMM stages some of the best contemporary exhibitions in the city, with established artists and impressive newcomers. The permanent collection rotates through unique pieces every few months – drawing from a treasure trove of work spanning the last 80 years. Don’t miss.
Patricia & Phillip Frost Museum of ScienceMUSEUM
(map Google map; %305-434-9600; www.frostscience.org; 1101 Biscayne Blvd; adult/child $30/21; h9am-6pm; pc)
This sprawling new Downtown museum spreads across 250,000 sq ft that includes a three-level aquarium, a 250-seat, state-of-the-art planetarium and two distinct wings that delve into the wonders of science and nature. Exhibitions range from weather phenomena to creepy crawlies, feathered dinosaurs and vital-microbe displays, while Florida’s fascinating Everglades and biologically rich coral reefs play starring roles. The building you now see, which cost a staggering $305 million to complete, was built with sustainability in mind and opened in 2017.
Void ProjectsARTS CENTER
(map Google map; www.voidprojects.org; 60 SE 1st St; h11am-6pm) 
F
If you’d like to meet local artists and see how life is lived on a smaller, more modest scale in Miami’s creative pockets, visit this arts collective – run by artist Axel Void – where resident artists paint and hold exhibitions (by visiting artists) and organise free life drawing classes for the public (Thursdays from 6.30pm) and movie screenings.
1Little Havana
The Cubaness of Little Havana is slightly exaggerated for visitors, though it’s still an atmospheric area to explore for an afternoon, with the crack of dominoes, the scent of wafting cigars and salsa spilling out of storefronts. Little Havana’s main thoroughfare, Calle Ocho (SW 8th St), is the heart of the neighborhood. In many ways, this is every immigrant enclave in the USA – full of restaurants, mom-and-pop convenience shops and phonecard kiosks, except here you get intermittent tourists posing and taking selfies.
oMáximo Gómez ParkPARK
(map Google map; cnr SW 8th St & SW 15th Ave; h9am-6pm)
Little Havana’s most evocative reminder of Cuba is Máximo Gómez Park (‘Domino Park’), where the sound of elderly men trash-talking over games of dominoes is harmonized with the quick clack-clack of slapping tiles – though the tourists taking photos all the while does take away from the authenticity of the place somewhat. The heavy cigar smell and a sunrise-bright mural of the 1994 Summit of the Americas add to the atmosphere.
Little Havana Art DistrictAREA
(map Google map; Calle Ocho, btwn SW 15th & 17th Aves)
This particular stretch of Little Havana is the epicenter of the Viernes Culturales (Cultural Fridays; www.viernesculturales.org; h7-11pm last Fri of month) celebration and has a handful of galleries and studios still in business that are worth a browse.
1Wynwood & the Design District
Wynwood and the Design District are two of Miami’s arts neighborhoods (though it’s fair to say the edge has worn off a bit) – Wynwood is packed with galleries and lots of street art and has a lively night life, and there are some good music festivals held here every year. It’s very popular with tourists who are looking for an alternative to South Beach. The Design District is a high-end shopping area, with a couple of great little art museums and a mixed bag of restaurants.
Institute of Contemporary ArtMUSEUM
(map Google map; www.icamiami.org; 61 NE 41st St; h11am-7pm Tue-Sun) F
An excellent contemporary arts museum, the ICA sits in the midst of the Design District, and hosts a fantastic range of contemporary exhibitions alongside its permanent collection pieces. The building, designed in 2017 by Aranguren & Gallegos architects, is especially beautiful, with its sharp geometric lines and large windows overlooking the back garden. The metallic grey facade is simultaneously industrial and elegant
Wynwood WallsPUBLIC ART
(map Google map; www.thewynwoodwalls.com; NW 2nd Ave, btwn 25th & 26th Sts) F
In the midst of rusted warehouses and concrete blah, there’s a pastel-and-graffiti explosion of urban art. Wynwood Walls is a collection of murals and paintings laid out over an open courtyard that invariably bowls people over with its sheer color profile and unexpected location. What’s on offer tends to change with the coming and going of major arts events, such as Art Basel, but it’s always interesting stuff.
Margulies Collection at the WarehouseGALLERY
(map Google map; %305-576-1051; www.margulieswarehouse.com; 591 NW 27th St; adult/student $10/5; h11am-4pm Tue-Sat mid-Oct–Apr)
Encompassing 45,000 sq ft, this vast not-for-profit exhibition space houses one of the best art collections in Wynwood – Martin Margulies’ awe-inspiring 4000-piece collection includes sculptures by Isamu Noguchi, George Segal, Richard Serra and Olafur Eliasson, among many others, plus sound installations by Susan Philipsz and jaw-dropping room-sized works by Anselm Kiefer. Thought-provoking, large-format installations are the focus at the Warehouse, and you’ll see works by some leading 21st-century artists here.
Bakehouse Art ComplexGALLERY
(map Google map; BAC; %305-576-2828; www.bacfl.org; 561 NW 32nd St; hnoon-5pm; p) F
One of the pivotal art destinations in Wynwood, the Bakehouse has been an arts incubator since well before the creation of the Wynwood Walls. Today this former bakery houses galleries and some 60 studios, and the range of works is quite impressive. Check the schedule for upcoming artist talks and other events.
1Coral Gables
The lovely city of Coral Gables, filled with Mediterranean-style buildings, feels like a world removed from other parts of Miami. Here you’ll find pretty banyan-lined streets, and a walkable village-like center, dotted with shops, cafes and restaurants. The big draws are the striking Biltmore Hotel, a lush tropical garden and one of America’s loveliest swimming pools.
oFairchild Tropical GardenGARDENS
(map Google map; %305-667-1651; www.fairchildgarden.org; 10901 Old Cutler Rd; adult/child/senior $25/12/18; h9:30am-4:30pm; pc)
If you need to escape Miami’s madness, consider a green day in one of the country’s largest tropical botanical gardens. A butterfly grove, tropical plant conservatory and gentle vistas of marsh and keys habitats, plus frequent art installations from artists like Roy Lichtenstein, are all stunning. In addition to easy-to-follow, self-guided walking tours, a free 45-minute tram tours the entire park on the hour from 10am to 3pm (till 4pm weekends).
oBiltmore HotelHISTORIC BUILDING
(map Google map; %855-311-6903; www.biltmorehotel.com; 1200 Anastasia Ave; htours 1:30pm & 2:30pm Sun; p)
In the most opulent neighborhood of one of the showiest cities in the world, the Biltmore is the greatest of the grand hotels of the American Jazz Age. If this joint were a fictional character from a novel, it’d be, without question, Jay Gatsby. Al Capone had a speakeasy on-site, and the Capone Suite is said to be haunted by the spirit of Fats Walsh, who was murdered here.
1Coconut Grove
Coconut Grove was once a hippie colony, but these days its demographic is middle-class, mall-going Miamians and college students – so much so that at the time of research, CocoWalk, the main street, was undergoing massive renovations that will bring it up to the new standards.
It’s a pleasant place to explore, with intriguing shops and cafes, and a walkable village-like vibe. It’s particularly appealing in the evenings, when residents fill the outdoor tables of its bars and restaurants. Coconut Grove backs onto the waterfront, with a pretty marina and some pleasant green spaces.
oVizcaya Museum & GardensHISTORIC BUILDING
(map Google map; %305-250-9133; www.vizcayamuseum.org; 3251 S Miami Ave; adult/6-12yr/student & senior $22/10/16; h9.30am-4.30pm Wed-Mon; p)
If you want to see something that is ‘very Miami’, this is it – lush, big, over the top, a patchwork of all that a rich US businessman might want to show off to his friends. Which is essentially what industrialist James Deering did in 1916, starting a Miami tradition of making a ton of money and building ridiculously grandiose digs. He employed 1000 people (then 10% of the local population) and stuffed his home with Renaissance furniture, tapestries, paintings and decorative arts.
1Key Biscayne
Key Biscayne and neighboring Virginia Key are a quick and easy getaway from Downtown Miami. Once you pass those scenic causeways you’ll feel like you’ve been transported to a far-off tropical realm, with magnificent beaches, lush nature trails in state parks and aquatic adventures aplenty. The stunning skyline views of Miami alone are worth the trip out.
oBill Baggs Cape Florida State ParkSTATE PARK
(map Google map; %305-361-5811; www.floridastateparks.org/capeflorida; 1200 S Crandon Blvd; per car/person $8/2; h8am-sunset, lighthouse 9am-5pm; pc#) 
S
If you don’t make it to the Florida Keys, come to this park for a taste of their unique island ecosystems. The 494-acre space is a tangled clot of tropical fauna and dark mangroves – look for the ‘snorkel’ roots that provide air for half-submerged mangrove trees – all interconnected by sandy trails and wooden boardwalks, and surrounded by miles of pale ocean. A concession shack rents out kayaks, bikes, in-line skates, beach chairs and umbrellas.
1Greater Miami
Museum of Contemporary Art North MiamiMUSEUM
(map Google map; MoCA; %305-893-6211; www.mocanomi.org; 770 NE 125th St; adult/student/child under 12yr $10/3/free; h11am-5pm Tue-Fri & Sun, 1-9pm Sat; p)
The Museum of Contemporary Art has long been a reason to hike up to North Miami – its galleries feature excellent rotating exhibitions of contemporary art by local, national and international artists, usually themed along socially engaged lines of interest. There is a pay what you wish gallery policy during Jazz@MOCA from 7pm to 10pm on the last Friday of every month, when live outdoor jazz concerts are held.
Gold Coast Railroad MuseumMUSEUM
(%305-253-0063; www.gcrm.org; 12450 SW 152nd St; adult/child 2-12yr $8/6; h10am-4pm Mon-Fri, from 11am Sat & Sun; p)
Primarily of interest to train buffs, this museum displays more than 30 antique railway cars, including the Ferdinand Magellan presidential car, where President Harry Truman famously brandished a newspaper with the erroneous headline ‘Dewey Defeats Truman.’
MIAMI FOR CHILDREN
The best beaches for kids are in Miami Beach north of 21st St, especially at 53rd St, which has a playground and public toilets, and the dune-packed beach around 73rd St. Also head south to Matheson Hammock Park, which has calm artificial lagoons.
Miami Children’s Museum (map Google map; %305-373-5437; www.miamichildrensmuseum.org; 980 MacArthur Causeway; $20; h10am-6pm; c) On Watson Island, between Downtown Miami and Miami Beach, this hands-on museum has fun music and art studios, as well as some branded ‘work’ experiences that make it feel a tad corporate.
Jungle Island (map Google map; %305-400-7000; www.jungleisland.com; 1111 Parrot Jungle Trail, off MacArthur Causeway; adult/child $50/38; h10am-5pm; pc) Jungle Island is packed with tropical birds, alligators, orangutans, chimps and (to the delight of Napoleon Dynamite fans) a liger – a cross between a lion and a tiger.
Zoo Miami (Metrozoo; %305-251-0400; www.zoomiami.org; 12400 SW 152nd St; adult/child $23/19; h10am-5pm; pc) Miami’s tropical weather makes strolling around Zoo Miami almost feel like a day in the wild. For a quick overview (and because the zoo is so big and the sun is broiling), hop on the Safari Monorail; it departs every 20 minutes.
Monkey Jungle (%305-235-1611; www.monkeyjungle.com; 14805 SW 216th St; adult/child/senior $30/24/28; h9:30am-5pm, last entry 4pm; pc) The tagline, ‘Where humans are caged and monkeys run free,’ tells you all you need to know – except for the fact that it’s in far south Miami.
2Activities
Miami doesn’t lack for ways to keep yourself busy. From sailing the teal waters to hiking through tropical undergrowth, yoga in the parks and (why not?) trapeze artistry above the city’s head, the Magic City rewards those who want an active holiday.
Citi BikeCYCLING
(%305-532-9494; www.citibikemiami.com; rental per 30min $4.50, 1/2/4hr $6.50/10/18, day $24)
This bike-sharing program, modeled after similar initiatives in New York, London and Paris, makes getting on a bike a relative breeze. Just rock up to a solar-powered Citi Bike station (a handy map can be found on the website), insert a credit card and ride away. You can return your bike at any Citi Bike location.
Bike & RollCYCLING
(map Google map; %305-604-0001; www.bikemiami.com; 210 10th St; hire per 2/4hr from $10/18, day from $24, tours $40; h9am-7pm)
This well-run outfit offers a good selection of bikes, including single-speed cruisers, geared hybrids and speedy road bikes; all rentals include helmets, lights, locks and maps. Staff move things along quickly, so you won’t have to waste time waiting to get out and riding. Bike tours are also available (daily at 10am).
Fritz’s Skate, Bike & SurfSKATING
(map Google map; %305-532-1954; www.fritzsmiamibeach.com; 1620 Washington Ave; bike & skate rental per hour/day/5 days $10/24/69; h10am-9pm Mon-Sat, to 8pm Sun)
Rent your wheels from Fritz’s, which offers skateboards, longboards, in-line skates, roller skates, scooters and bicycles (cruisers, mountain bikes, kids’ bikes). Protective gear is included with skate rentals, and bikes come with locks. Be mindful that there’s a deposit for each rental – skates $100, longboards $150 and bicycles $200.
SoBe SurfSURFING
(%786-216-7703; www.sobesurf.com; group/private lessons from $70/100)
Offers surf lessons both in Miami Beach and in Cocoa Beach, where there tends to be better waves. Instruction on Miami Beach usually happens around South Point. All bookings are done by phone or email.
Miami Watersports ComplexWATER SPORTS
(map Google map; MWCC; %305-476-9253; www.aktionparks.com; Amelia Earhart Park, 401 E 65th St, Hialeah; h11am-6pm Mar-Oct, to dusk Nov-Feb)
Offers lessons in cableboarding, where the rider is pulled along by an overhead cable system. That means no boat, less pollution and less noise. A 20-minute/one-hour lesson costs $25/90, or opt for a $59 package that includes a beginner lesson, rental gear and four-hour cable pass. Call ahead to reserve a spot.
2City Walk
Art Deco Magic
START Art Deco Museum
END Ocean’s Ten
LENGTH 1.2 miles; two to three hours
Start at the 1Art Deco Museum, at the corner of Ocean Dr and 10th St (named Barbara Capitman Way here, after the Miami Design Preservation League’s founder). Step in for an exhibit on art-deco style, then head out and north along Ocean Dr; between 12th and 14th Sts you’ll see three examples of deco hotels: the 2Leslie, a boxy shape with eyebrows (cantilevered sunshades) wrapped around the side of the building; the 3Carlyle (map Google map), featured in the film The Birdcage and boasting modernistic styling; and the graceful 4Cardozo Hotel (map Google map), built by Henry Hohauser, owned by Gloria Estefan and featuring sleek, rounded edges.
At 14th St peek inside the sun-drenched 5Winter Haven Hotel (map Google map) to see its fabulous terrazzo floors, made of stone chips set in mortar that’s polished when dry. Turn left and down 14th St to Washington Ave and the 6US Post Office, at 13th St. It’s a curvy block of white deco in the stripped classical style. Step inside to admire the wall mural, domed ceiling and marble stamp tables.
Lunch at the 711th St Diner, a gleaming aluminum Pullman car that was imported in 1992 from Wilkes-Barre, PA. Get a window seat and gaze across the avenue to the corner of 10th St and the stunningly restored 8Hotel Astor (map Google map), designed in 1936 by T Hunter Henderson. After your meal, walk half a block east from there to the imposing 9Wolfsonian-FIU, an excellent design museum, formerly the Washington Storage Company. Wealthy snowbirds of the ’30s stashed their pricey belongings here before heading back up north.
Continue walking on Washington Ave, turn left on 8th St and then continue north along Collins Ave to the aHotel of South Beach (map Google map), featuring an interior and roof deck by Todd Oldham. Walk for two more blocks to Ocean Dr, where you’ll spy nonstop deco beauties; at 960 Ocean Dr (the bOcean’s Ten restaurant) you’ll see an exterior designed in 1935 by deco legend Henry Hohauser.
TTours
History Miami ToursTOURS
(www.historymiami.org/city-tour; tours $30-60)
Historian extraordinaire Dr Paul George leads fascinating walking tours, including culturally rich strolls through Little Haiti, Little Havana, Downtown and Coral Gables at twilight, plus the occasional boat trip to Stiltsville and Key Biscayne. Tours happen once a week or so. Get the full menu and sign up online.
Miami Food ToursFOOD & DRINK
(map Google map; %786-361-0991; www.miamifoodtours.com; 429 Lenox Ave; South Beach tour adult/child $58/35, Wynwood tour $75/55, Swooped with Forks $129/109; htours South Beach 11am & 4:30pm daily, Wynwood 10:30am Mon-Sat)
This highly rated tour explores various facets of the city – culture, history, art and of course cuisine – while making stops at restaurants and cafes along the way. It’s a walking tour, though distances aren’t great, and happens in South Beach and Wynwood. There is also the Swooped with Forks food tour that takes you places in a golf cart.
Miami Design Preservation LeagueWALKING
(map Google map; MDPL; %305-672-2014; www.mdpl.org; 1001 Ocean Dr; guided tours adult/student $25/20; h10:30am daily & 6:30pm Thu)
Tells the stories and history behind the art-deco buildings in South Beach, with a lively guide from the Miami Design Preservation League. Tours last 90 minutes. Also offers tours of Jewish Miami Beach, Gay & Lesbian Miami Beach and a once-monthly tour (first Saturday at 9:30am) of the MiMo district in the North Beach area. Check website for details.
zFestivals & Events
Winter Music ConferenceMUSIC
(www.wintermusicconference.com; hMar)
Party promoters, DJs, producers and revelers come from around the globe to hear new electronic-music artists, catch up on technology and party the nights away.
Miami Spice Restaurant MonthFOOD & DRINK
(www.miamiandbeaches.com/offers/temptations/miami-spice-months; hAug-Sep)
Top restaurants around Miami offer three-course lunches and dinners to try to lure folks out during the heat wave. Prices hover around $25 for lunch and $40 for dinner. Reservations essential.
White PartyMUSIC
(www.whiteparty.org; hNov)
If you’re gay and not here, there’s a problem. This weeklong extravaganza draws more than 15,000 gay men and women for nonstop partying at clubs and venues all over town.
Art Basel Miami BeachART
(www.artbasel.com/miami-beach; hearly Dec)
One of the most important international art shows in the world, with works from more than 250 galleries and a slew of trendy parties. Even if you’re not a billionaire collector, there’s much to enjoy at this four-day fest, with open-air art installations around town, special exhibitions at many Miami galleries and outdoor film screenings, among other goings-on.
4Sleeping
Miami has some alluring lodging options, but beware that high-season prices can be sky-high. South Beach has all the name recognition with boutique hotels set in lovely art deco buildings, but there are plenty of other options in Miami – from Downtown high-rises with sweeping views and endless amenities to historic charmers in Coral Gables and Coconut Grove and some modern – MiMo – beauties along Biscayne Boulevard.
4South Beach
Bed & DrinksHOSTEL$
(map Google map; %786-230-1234; www.bedsndrinks.com; 1676 James Ave; dm/d from $29/154)
This hostel pretty shamelessly plays to the sexy, party, beautiful-people crowd – check the name – so know this before booking. The beach is a few blocks away. The rooms range from average to slightly below average. Friendly staff, a lively on-site bar and nightlife outings to clubs around town make up for the minuses.
SoBe HostelHOSTEL$
(map Google map; %305-534-6669; www.sobe-hostel.com; 235 Washington Ave; dm $22-52; 
a
i
W)
On a quiet end of SoFi (the area south of 5th St, South Beach), this massive multilingual hostel has a happening common area and spartan rooms. The staff are friendly and the on-site bar (open to 5am) is a great spot to meet other travelers. Free breakfasts and dinners are included in the rates.
There are loads of activities on offer – from volleyball games to mojito-making nights, screenings of big games and bar crawls.
Catalina HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
(map Google map; %305-674-1160; www.catalinahotel.com; 1732 Collins Ave; r from $220; paW
s)
The Catalina is a lovely example of midrange deco style. Most appealing, besides the playfully minimalist rooms, is the vibe – the Catalina doesn’t take itself too seriously, and staff and guests all seem to be having fun as a result. The back pool, concealed behind the main building’s crisp white facade, is particularly attractive and fringed by a whispery grove of bamboo trees.
It was renovated to incorporate the Dorset, next door, which means that it now has two pools, a roof terrace and a reasonable Mexican restaurant.
o1 HotelHOTEL$$$
(map Google map; %866-615-1111; www.1hotels.com; 2341 Collins Ave; r from $400; aWs) S
One of the top hotels in the USA, the 1 Hotel has 400-plus gorgeous rooms that embrace both luxurious and ecofriendly features – including tree-trunk coffee tables/desks, custom hemp-blend mattresses and salvaged driftwood feature walls, plus in-room water filtration (no need for plastic bottles). The common areas are impressive, with four pools, including an adults-only rooftop infinity pool.
oSurfcomberHOTEL$$$
(map Google map; %305-532-7715; www.surfcomber.com; 1717 Collins Ave; r $250-480; paWs#)
The Surfcomber has a classic art-deco exterior with strong lines and shade-providing ‘eyebrows’ that zigzag across the facade. But the interior is the really impressive part – rooms have undeniable appeal, with elegant lines in keeping with the art-deco aesthetic, while bursts of color keep things contemporary.
4North Beach
oFreehand MiamiBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
(map Google map; %305-531-2727; www.thefreehand.com; 2727 Indian Creek Dr; dm $28-55, r $160-250; aWs)
The Freehand is the brilliant reimagining of the old Indian Creek Hotel, a classic of the Miami Beach scene. Rooms are sunny and attractively designed, with local artwork and wooden details. The vintage-filled common areas are the reason to stay here though – especially the lovely pool area and backyard that transforms into one of the best bars in town.
Dorms serve the hostel crowd, while private rooms are quite appealing. There are also bungalows for self-catering groups.
4Downtown Miami
Eurostars LangfordHERITAGE HOTEL$$
(map Google map; %305-250-0782; http://the-langford.miamiallhotels.com; 121 SE 1st St; r from $180; aW)
Set in a beautifully restored 1925 beaux-arts high-rise, the Langford’s 126 rooms blend comfort and nostalgia, with elegant fixtures and vintage details, including oak flooring and lush furniture. Thoughtful design touches abound, and there’s a rooftop bar and an excellent ground-floor restaurant on-site.
4Coral Gables
oBiltmore HotelHISTORIC HOTEL$$$
(map Google map; %855-311-6903; www.biltmorehotel.com; 1200 Anastasia Ave; r/ste from $699/730; paWs)
Though the Biltmore’s standard rooms can be small, a stay here is a chance to sleep in one of the great laps of US luxury. The grounds are so palatial it would take a week to explore everything the Biltmore has to offer – sunbathe underneath enormous columns and take a dip in the largest hotel pool in continental USA.
5Eating
Miami has tons of immigrants – mainly from Latin America, the Caribbean and Russia – and it’s a sucker for food trends. Thus you get a good mix of cheap ethnic eateries and high-quality top-end cuisine, alongside some poor-value dross in touristy zones like Miami Beach. Downtown, Wynwood and Upper East Side have excellent offerings; for great classics, head to Coral Gables.
5South Beach
11th Street DinerDINER$
(map Google map; %305-534-6373; www.eleventhstreetdiner.com; 1065 Washington Ave; mains $10-20; h7am-midnight Sun-Wed, 24hr Thu-Sat)
A gorgeous slice of Americana, this Pullman-car diner trucked down from Wilkes-Barre, PA, is where you can replicate Edward Hopper’s Nighthawks – if that’s something you’ve always wanted to do. The food is as classic as the architecture, with oven-roasted turkey, baby back ribs and mac ’n’ cheese among the hits – plus breakfast at all hours.
oYardbirdSOUTHERN US$$
(map Google map; %305-538-5220; www.runchickenrun.com; 1600 Lenox Ave; mains $18-38; h11am-midnight Mon-Fri, from 8:30am Sat & Sun; 
v)
Yardbird has earned a die-hard following for its delicious haute Southern comfort food. The kitchen churns out some nice shrimp and grits, St Louis–style pork ribs, charred okra, and biscuits with smoked brisket, but it’s most famous for its supremely good plate of fried chicken, spiced watermelon and waffles with bourbon maple syrup.
oPubbellyFUSION$$
(map Google map; %305-532-7555; http://pubbellyglobal.com; 1424 20th St; plates $7-18; h6pm-midnight Tue-Thu & Sun, to 1am Fri & Sat; v)
A mix of Asian and Latin flavors, Pubbelly serves delicacies such as grilled miso black cod with spring onions, beef tartare rolls with mustard and truffle poached egg, and Japanese fried chicken with kimchi. Super popular and decently priced, it’s a real treat on South Beach.
Joe’s Stone Crab RestaurantAMERICAN$$$
(map Google map; %305-673-0365; www.joesstonecrab.com; 11 Washington Ave; mains lunch $14-30, dinner $19-60; h11:30am-2:30pm Tue-Sat, 5-10pm daily)
The wait is long and the prices for iconic dishes can be high. But if those aren’t deal breakers, queue to don a bib in Miami’s most famous restaurant (around since 1913!) and enjoy deliciously fresh stone-crab claws. Aside from tender stone crab (which can top $60 for half-a-dozen jumbo claws), you’ll find excellent blackened codfish sandwiches and creamy lobster mac ’n’ cheese.
5North Beach
Roasters ‘n ToastersDELI$
(map Google map; %305-531-7691; www.roastersntoasters.com; 525 Arthur Godfrey Rd; mains $10-18; h6:30am-3:30pm)
Given the crowds and the satisfied smiles of customers, Roasters ‘n Toasters meets the demanding standards of Miami Beach’s large Jewish demographic, thanks to juicy deli meat, fresh bread, crispy bagels and warm latkes. Sliders (mini-sandwiches) are served on challah bread, an innovation that’s as charming as it is tasty.
o27 RestaurantFUSION$$
(map Google map; %786-476-7020; www.freehandhotels.com; 2727 Indian Creek Dr, Freehand Miami Hotel; mains $17-28; h6:30pm-2am Mon-Sat, 11am-4pm & 6:30pm-2am Sun; v)
Part of Freehand Miami and the very popular Broken Shaker, 27 has a lovely setting – akin to dining in an old tropical cottage, with worn floorboards, candlelit tables, and various rooms slung with artwork and curious knickknacks, plus a lovely terrace. Try the braised octopus, crispy pork shoulder, kimchi fried rice and yogurt-tahini-massaged kale. Book ahead. Brunch is also quite popular.
5Downtown Miami
oAll DayCAFE$
(map Google map; www.alldaymia.com; 1035 N Miami Ave; coffee from $3.50, breakfast $10-14; h7am-7pm Mon-Fri, from 9am Sat & Sun; W)
All Day is positively Miami’s best cafe – with locally sourced ingredients forming the basis of its simple menu, as well as excellent coffees, teas, beer and wine, and an airy, light Scandinavian-style decor, this is a winner all-around. Stylish chairs, wood-and-marble tables, friendly staff and an always enticing soundtrack lend it an easygoing vibe.
oCasablancaSEAFOOD$$
(map Google map; www.casablancaseafood.com; 400 N River Dr; mains $15-34; h11am-10pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat)
Perched over the Miami River, Casablanca serves some of the best seafood in town. The setting is a big draw – with tables on a long wooden deck just above the water, and the odd seagull winging past. But the fresh fish is the real star here.
Chef Allen’s Farm-to-Table DinnerVEGETARIAN$$$
(map Google map; %786-405-1745; 1300 Biscayne Blvd; dinner $40, with wine pairing $60; h6:30pm Mon; v)
A great way to get to know some locals, this Monday-night feast is served family-style at outdoor tables in front of the Arsht Center, with live music and plenty of chatting between the diners. The vegetarian menu is inspired by the farmers market held on the same day. Call ahead to reserve a spot or book online.
5Little Havana
oVersaillesCUBAN$
(map Google map; %305-444-0240; www.versaillesrestaurant.com; 3555 SW 8th St; mains $6-21; h8am-1am Mon-Thu, to 2:30am Fri & Sat, 9am-1am Sun)
Versailles (ver-sigh-yay) is an institution – one of the mainstays of Miami’s Cuban gastronomic scene. Try the excellent black-bean soup or the fried yucca before moving onto heartier meat and seafood plates. Older Cubans and Miami’s Latin political elite still love coming here, so you’ve got a real chance to rub elbows with Miami’s most prominent Latin citizens.
Exquisito RestaurantCUBAN$
(map Google map; %305-643-0227; www.elexquisitomiami.com; 1510 SW 8th St; mains $9-13; h7am-11pm)
Great Cuban cuisine in the heart of Little Havana – the roast pork has a tangy citrus kick and the ropa vieja (spiced shredded beef and rice) is wonderfully rich. Even standard sides like beans and rice and roasted plantains are executed with a little more care and are extra tasty. Prices are a steal, too.
5Wynwood & the Design District
Della Test KitchenVEGAN$
(map Google map; %305-351-2961; www.dellabowls.com; 56 NW 29th St, Wynwood Yard; mains $11-14; hnoon-10pm Tue-Sun; v)
From a food truck parked in Wynwood Yard, this place offers delicious ‘bowls’ – build-your-own culinary works of art featuring ingredients such as black coconut rice, ginger tempeh, chickpeas, sweet potato and marinated kale. It’s heavenly good and quite healthy. Not surprisingly, DTK has quite a following.
oKyuFUSION$$
(map Google map; %786-577-0150; www.kyumiami.com; 251 NW 25th St; sharing plates $17-38; hnoon-11:30pm Mon-Sat, 11am-10:30pm Sun, bar till 1am Fri & Sat; v) S
Kyu has been dazzling locals and food critics alike with its creative Asian-inspired dishes, most of which are cooked over the open flames of a wood-fired grill. Try the Florida red snapper, beef tenderloin and a magnificent head of cauliflower. There’s also grilled octopus, soft-shell-crab steamed buns and smoked beef brisket. Book well ahead, or turn up and wait (one-hour average).
AlterMODERN AMERICAN$$$
(map Google map; %305-573-5996; www.altermiami.com; 223 NW 23rd St; set menu 5/7 courses $79/99; h7-11pm Tue-Sun)
Alter brings creative high-end cooking via its award-winning young chef Brad Kilgore. The changing menu showcases Florida’s high-quality ingredients from sea and land in seasonally inspired dishes with Asian and European-flavoured haute cuisine. Expect dishes such as eggs with sea scallop foam, truffle pearls and Siberian caviar, or lamb neck, forest consommé, toasted apple miso and shaved kombu. Reserve well ahead.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Miami has an intense variety of bars, ranging from grotty jazz and punk dives (with excellent music) to beautiful – and laid-back – lounges and nightclubs. There is a great live-music scene across the city. Miami’s nightlife reputation for being all about wealth, good looks and phoniness is thankfully mostly isolated to the South Beach scene.
oBroken ShakerBAR
(map Google map; %305-531-2727; www.freehandhotels.com; 2727 Indian Creek Dr, Freehand Miami Hotel; h6pm-3am Mon-Fri, 2pm-3am Sat & Sun)
A single small room with a well-equipped bar produces expert cocktails, which are mostly consumed in the beautiful, softly lit garden – all of it part of the Freehand Miami hotel. There’s a great soundtrack at all times, and the drinks are excellent. The clientele is a mix of hotel guests (young and into partying) and hip locals.
oSweet LibertyBAR
(map Google map; www.mysweetliberty.com; 237 20th St; h4pm-5am Mon-Sat, from noon Sun)
A much-loved local haunt near Collins Park, Sweet Liberty has all the right ingredients for a fun night out: friendly, easygoing bartenders who whip up excellent cocktails (try a mint julep), great happy-hour specials (including 75¢ oysters) and a relaxed, pretension-free crowd. The space is huge, with flickering candles, a long wooden bar and the odd band adding to the cheer.
Ball & ChainBAR
(map Google map; www.ballandchainmiami.com; 1513 SW 8th St; hnoon-midnight Mon-Wed, to 3am Thu-Sat, 2-10pm Sun)
The Ball & Chain has survived several incarnations over the years. Back in 1935, when 8th St was more Jewish than Latino, it was the sort of jazz joint Billie Holiday would croon in. That iteration closed in 1957, but today’s Ball & Chain is still dedicated to music and good times – specifically, Latin music and tropical cocktails.
Vagabond Pool BarBAR
(map Google map; %305-400-8420; www.thevagabondhotelmiami.com; 7301 Biscayne Blvd; h5-11pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat)
Tucked behind the Vagabond Hotel, this is a great spot to start the evening, with perfectly mixed cocktails, courtesy of pro bartenders (the kind who will shake your hand and introduce themselves). The outdoor setting overlooking the palm-fringed pool and eclectic crowd pairs nicely with elixirs like the Lost in Smoke (mezcal, amaro, amaretto and orange bitters).
oGalleriaCAFE
(map Google map; http://galleriadowntown.com; 69 SE 1st St; h11am-4pm) S
Galleria is a tiny spot of beauty, with its tiled benches and coral walls. The owner, Jeremy Sapienza, makes all his own nut milks, and everything here, including the pastries, is vegan. There are also vintage ceramics on sale – if you’d like an alternative Miami souvenir.
LGBTIQ+ MIAMI
In Miami, the gay scene is so integrated it can be difficult to separate it from the straight one; popular hot spots include South Beach, North Beach, and Wynwood and the Design District. Events such as the White Party and Swizzle are major dates in the North American gay calendar.
3Entertainment
Miami’s artistic merits are obvious, even from a distance. Could there be a better creative base? There’s Southern homegrown talent, migratory snowbirds bringing the funding and attention of northeastern galleries, and immigrants from across the Americas. All that adds up to some great live music, theater and dance – with plenty of room for experimentation.
oAdrienne Arsht Center for the Performing ArtsPERFORMING ARTS
(map Google map; %305-949-6722; www.arshtcenter.org; 1300 Biscayne Blvd; hbox office 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, plus 2hr before performances)
This magnificent venue manages to both humble and enthrall visitors. Today the Arsht is where the biggest cultural acts in Miami come to perform; a show here is a must-see on any Miami trip. There’s an Adrienne Arsht Center stop on the Metromover.
oCubaochoLIVE PERFORMANCE
(map Google map; %305-285-5880; www.cubaocho.com; 1465 SW 8th St; h11am-10pm Tue-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat)
Jewel of the Little Havana Art District, Cubaocho is renowned for its concerts, with excellent bands from across the Spanish-speaking world. It’s also a community center, art gallery and research outpost for all things Cuban. The interior resembles an old Havana cigar bar, yet the walls are decked out in artwork that references both the classical past of Cuban art and its avant-garde future.
Colony TheaterPERFORMING ARTS
(map Google map; %305-674-1040, box office 800-211-1414; www.colonymb.org; 1040 Lincoln Rd)
The Colony was built in 1935 and was the main cinema in upper South Beach before it fell into disrepair in the mid-20th century. It was renovated and revived in 1976 and now boasts 465 seats and great acoustics. It’s an absolute art-deco gem, with a classic marquee and Inca-style crenellations, and now serves as a major venue for performing arts.
New World SymphonyCLASSICAL MUSIC
(map Google map; NWS; %305-673-3330; www.nws.edu; 500 17th St)
Housed in the New World Center – a funky explosion of cubist lines and geometric curves, fresh white against the blue Miami sky – the acclaimed New World Symphony holds performances from October to May. The deservedly heralded NWS serves as a three- to four-year preparatory program for talented musicians from prestigious music schools.
8Information
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
Miami is a fairly safe city, but there are a few areas considered by locals to be dangerous:
A Liberty City, in northwest Miami; Overtown, from 14th to 20th Sts; Little Haiti and stretches of the Miami riverfront.
A South Beach, particularly along the carnival-like mayhem of Ocean Dr between 8th and 11th Sts, and deserted areas below 5th St are also dangerous at night.
A Use caution around causeways, bridges and overpasses where homeless people have set up shantytowns.
In these and other reputedly ‘bad’ areas you should avoid walking around alone late at night. It’s best to take a taxi.
TOURIST INFORMATION
Greater Miami & the Beaches Convention & Visitors Bureau (map; %305-539-3000; www.miamiandbeaches.com; 701 Brickell Ave, 27th fl; h8:30am-6pm Mon-Fri) Offers loads of info on Miami and keeps up-to-date with the latest events and cultural offerings.
8Getting There & Away
Located 6 miles west of Downtown, the busy Miami International Airport (MIA; map; %305-876-7000; www.miami-airport.com; 2100 NW 42nd Ave) has three terminals and serves more than 40 million passengers each year. Around 60 airlines fly into Miami. The airport is open 24 hours and is laid out in a horseshoe design. There are left-luggage facilities on two concourses at MIA, between B and C, and on G; prices vary according to bag size.
For bus trips, Greyhound (www.greyhound.com) is the main long-distance operator. Megabus (map; https://us.megabus.com; Miami International Center, 3801 NW 21st St) offers service to Tampa and Orlando.
Greyhound’s main bus terminal (map; %305-871-1810; 3801 NW 21st) is near the airport, though additional services also depart from the company’s Cutler Bay terminal (Cutler Bay; %305-296-9072; 10801 Caribbean Blvd) and North Miami terminal (map; %305-688-7277; 16000 NW 7th Ave).
If you are traveling very long distances (say, across several states), bargain airfares can sometimes undercut buses. On shorter routes, renting a car can sometimes be cheaper. Nonetheless, discounted (even half-price) long-distance bus trips are often available by purchasing tickets online seven to 14 days in advance.
The main Miami terminal of Amtrak (%305-835-1222; www.amtrak.com; 8303 NW 37th Ave, West Little River), about 9 miles northwest of Downtown, connects the city with several other points in Florida (including Orlando and Jacksonville) on the Silver Service line that runs up to New York City. Travel time between New York and Miami is 27 to 31 hours. The Miami Amtrak station is connected by Tri-rail to Downtown Miami and has a left-luggage facility.
8Getting Around
Bus Extensive system, though slow for long journeys.
Citi Bike Bike-sharing network in both Miami and Miami Beach. With heavy traffic, however, take care riding long distances – it can be hazardous.
Rental Car Convenient for zipping around town, but parking can be expensive.
Taxi & Ride-Sharing Services Best for getting between destinations if you don’t want to drive, but can be pricey for long distances. Difficult to hail on the street; call or use an app (Lyft or Uber are the most popular) for a pick-up.
Trolley Free service with various routes in Miami Beach, Downtown, Wynwood, Coconut Grove, Coral Gables, Little Havana and other neighborhoods.
Fort Lauderdale
After years of building a reputation as the destination for beer-swilling college students on raucous spring breaks, Fort Lauderdale now angles for a slightly more mature and sophisticated crowd. Think martinis rather than tequila shots; jazz concerts instead of wet T-shirt contests. But don’t worry, there’s still plenty of carrying-on within the confines of area bars and nightclubs.
Few visitors venture far inland – except maybe to dine and shop along Las Olas Blvd; most spend the bulk of their time on the coast. It’s understandable. Truly, it’s hard to compete with beautiful beaches, a system of Venice-like waterways, an international yachting scene, spiffy new hotels and top-notch restaurants.
The city’s Port Everglades is one of the busiest cruise-ship ports in the world, with megaships departing daily for the Caribbean, Mexico and beyond.
1Sights
Fort Lauderdale Beach & PromenadeBEACH
(N Atlantic Blvd; pc#)
Fort Lauderdale’s promenade – a wide, brick, palm-tree-dotted pathway swooping along the beach and the A1A – is a magnet for runners, in-line skaters, walkers and cyclists. The white-sand beach, meanwhile, is one of the nation’s cleanest and best. Stretching 7 miles to Lauderdale-by-the-Sea, it has dedicated family-, gay- and dog-friendly sections. Boating, diving, snorkeling and fishing are all extremely popular.
NSU Art Museum Fort LauderdaleMUSEUM
(%954-525-5500; www.nsuartmuseum.org; 1 E Las Olas Blvd; adult/student/child $12/free; h11am-5pm Tue-Sat, from noon Sun)
A curvaceous Florida standout with an interesting spilled rainbow design outside, the museum is known for its William Glackens collection (among Glackens fans) and its exhibitions on wide-ranging themes from northern European art to contemporary Cuban art, American pop art and contemporary photography. On first Thursdays, the museum stays open to 8pm and hosts lectures, films and performances, as well as a happy hour in the museum cafe. Day courses and workshops are also available. Check the website for details.
oBonnet HouseHISTORIC BUILDING
(%954-563-5393; www.bonnethouse.org; 900 N Birch Rd; adult/child $20/16, grounds only $10; h9am-4pm Tue-Sun)
This pretty plantation-style property was once the home of artists and collectors Frederic and Evelyn Bartlett. It is now open to guided tours that swing through its art-filled rooms and studios. Beyond the house, 35 acres of lush, subtropical gardens protect a pristine barrier-island ecosystem, including one of the finest orchid collections in the country.
RiverwalkLANDMARK
Curving along the New River, the meandering Riverwalk runs from Stranahan House to the Broward Center for the Performing Arts. Host to culinary tastings and other events, the walk connects a number of sights, restaurants and shops.
Museum of Discovery & ScienceMUSEUM
(%954-467-6637; www.mods.org; 401 SW 2nd St; adult/child $17/14; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, noon-6pm Sun; c)
A 52ft kinetic-energy sculpture greets you here, and fun exhibits include Gizmo City and Runways to Rockets – where it actually is rocket science. Plus there’s an Everglades exhibit and IMAX theater. You can even have an ‘Otter Encounter’ for $50 per person (reservations only), where you can feed otters, participate in a training, and learn about their habits and diet.
2Activities
Fort Lauderdale lies on the same reef system as the Keys. Snorkeling is a popular pastime but the real action in the water lies within a 50-minute boat ride at the site of some two-dozen wrecks. Here divers can nose around the Mercedes freighter and the Tenneco Towers artificial reef made up from an old oil platform. Soft corals bloom prolifically, and barracuda, jacks and parrotfish duck and dive between the wreckage.
Besides the underwater scenery, everything from jet-skis to parasailing to deep-sea fishing charters is available at the beach.
oSea ExperienceBOATING, SNORKELING
(%954-770-3483; www.seaxp.com; 801 Seabreeze Blvd; snorkeling adult/child $40/25, 2-tank dive $85 (not incl gear); h10:15am & 2:15pm; c)
Sea Experience takes guests in a 40ft glass-bottom boat along the Intracoastal and into the ocean to snorkel on a natural reef, thriving with marine life, in 10ft to 20ft of water. Tours last 2½ hours. Also offers scuba trips to multiple wreck sites.
Carrie BBOATING
(%954-642-1601; www.carriebcruises.com; 440 N New River Dr E; tours adult/child $29/15; htours 11am, 1pm & 3pm, closed Tue & Wed May-Sep)
Hop aboard this replica 19th-century riverboat for a narrated 90-minute ‘lifestyles of the rich and famous’ tour of the ginormous mansions along the Intracoastal and New River. Tours leave from Las Olas at SE 5th Ave.
oBar-B-RanchHORSEBACK RIDING
(%954-424-1060; www.bar-b-ranch.com; 3500 Peaceful Ridge Rd, Davie; 60/90 min trail rides $50/60; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 4:30pm Sat)
With the glitter of Ft Lauderdale so close, it’s hard to feel like any ‘old’ Florida is left, but Davie is just 15 minutes away and at Bar-B-Ranch, a family-owned riding stable since 1969, you can truly get away from it all: on top of a horse. It offers trail and rental options, including a day and summer kids’ camp.
The real magic though is just being in the saddle and seeing some of the nearby preserved woodlands and fields that once comprised most of this part of Florida. Davie has done a good job of preserving these spaces, so if the 23 acres of ranchland are too wimpy for you, there’s 160-plus acres of additional countryside to explore, including live oak hammocks, wetlands, and a citrus grove.
Blue Moon Outdoor AdventuresBOATING
(%954-781-0073; www.bluemoonoutdoor.com; 1101 Bayview Dr, George English Park & Boat ramp; 1st hour kayak 1/2 person $15/25, SUP $35, then $10 per hour after; h10am-sunset Thu-Sun or by appointment)
Paddle the Island City Loop or go south through ‘Venice of America,’ Fort Lauderdale. Day, sunset, and moonlight tours are available by appointment. Tours include light refreshments.
4Sleeping
The splashiest hotels are found along the beach. Of course, those places are also the priciest. Meander inland and you’ll discover some wonderful inns with Old Florida charm. For more budget-friendly accommodations, check out Lauderdale-by-the-Sea.
TranquiloMOTEL$$
(%954-565-5790; www.tranquilofortlauderdale.com; 2909 Vistamar St; r $149-194; p
naWs)
This white-on-white retro 1950s motel offers fantastic value for families. Rooms range over five buildings, each with its own pool, and some include newly refurbished kitchens along with access to outdoor grills and laundry services. No shuttle, but the beach is three blocks away. The main pool even has an accessible entry for those with mobility needs.
B Ocean ResortHOTEL$$
(%954-524-5551; www.bhotelsandresorts.com; 1140 Seabreeze Blvd; r from $144; pnaWs)
Defining the southern end of Seabreeze Blvd, this hotel straddles the uberpopular South Beach and offers breezy ocean views from the majority of its airy rooms. Built by M Tony Sherman in 1956, it looks like a giant cruise ship tethered to the sidewalk.
oW Fort LauderdaleHOTEL$$$
(%954-414-8200; www.wfortlauderdalehotel.com; 401 N Fort Lauderdale Beach Blvd; r $289-699; paiWs)
With an exterior resembling two giant sails and an interior that looks like the backdrop for a J Lo video, this is where the glitterati stay – bust out your stiletto heels/skinny ties and join them. The massive lobby is built for leisure, with a silver-and-aqua lounge area, a moodily lit bar, and a deck lined with wicker chaises.
oLago Mar ResortRESORT$$$
(%954-523-6511; www.lagomar.com; 1700 S Ocean Lane; r $300-700; pnaiWs)
On the south end of South Beach, this wonderfully noncorporate resort has it all: a private beach, grand lobby, massive island-style rooms, a full-service spa, on-site restaurants, a lagoon-style pool set amid tropical plantings and the personal touch of family ownership. (And no, not to be confused with President Trump’s Mar-a-Lago.) A lovely fish mosaic graces the lobby floor.
5Eating
Fort Lauderdale’s food scene is heavily influenced by the area’s large Italian American population but increasingly it’s becoming known for its casual chic, farm-to-table options. Las Olas Blvd has a number of eating places, especially the stretch between 5th and 16th Aves, though these can be more touristy.
Lester’s DinerDINER$
(%954-525-5641; www.lestersdiner.com; 250 W State Rd 84; mains $6-19; h24hr)
Hailed endearingly as a greasy spoon, retro-since-it-was-new Lester’s Diner has been keeping folks happy since the late 1960s. Everyone makes their way here at some point, from business types on cell phones to clubbers to travel writers needing pancakes at 4am.
Green Bar & KitchenVEGAN$
(%954-533-7507; www.greenbarkitchen.com; 1075 SE 17th St; mains $8-16; h10am-9pm Mon-Sat, to 4pm Sun; pv)
Discover bright flavors and innovative dishes at this modern, plant-based shop located in a strip mall. Get your fresh celery-juice fix, veggie voodoo shots, or non-dairy gelato. Almond milk replaces dairy in cold-pressed fruit smoothies, and the delectable cashew cup gives Reese’s a run for its money.
oBurlock CoastINTERNATIONAL$$$
(%954-302-6460; www.burlockcoast.com; Ritz Carlton, 1 N Fort Lauderdale Beach Blvd; mains $19-46; h7am-10pm)
Situated in the lovely Ritz Carlton Hotel, this chic, casual spot somehow manages to be all things to all people: a cafe, bar, market and upmarket restaurant. The menu has been crafted to the mantra: local farmers and vendors. The menu changes seasonally but errs towards modern international, like pulled pork or simple fish-and-chips. The deck outside is prime for people watching.
15th Street FisheriesSEAFOOD$$$
(%954-763-2777; www.15streetfisheries.com; 1900 SE 15th St; bar mains $7-16, restaurant mains $38-55; p)
Tucked away in Lauderdale Marina with an open-fronted deck offering a front-row view of yachts, this place is hard to beat for waterfront dining. The wooden interior is kitted out like an Old Florida boathouse. The fine-dining restaurant is upstairs and a more informal dockside bar serves shrimp, crab and grilled mahi-mahi. You can feed the tarpon, too, which is popular with kids.
LGBTIQ+ FORT LAUDERDALE
Sure, South Beach is a hot location for gay travelers, but Fort Lauderdale nips at the high heels of its southern neighbor. Compared to South Beach, Lauderdale is a little more rainbow-flag-oriented and a little less exclusive. And for the hordes of gay men who flock here, either to party or to settle down, therein lies the charm.
Fort Lauderdale is home to several-dozen gay bars and clubs, as many gay guesthouses, and a couple of way-gay residential areas. Victoria Park is the established gay hub just northeast of downtown Fort Lauderdale. A bit further north, Wilton Manors is a more recently gay-gentrified area boasting endless nightlife options. Look for Rosie’s (%954-563-0123; www.rosiesbng.com; 2449 Wilton Dr; h11am-11pm), a low-key neighborhood watering hole; The Manor (%954-626-0082; www.themanorcomplex.com; 2345 Wilton Dr; cover $10-20; hvaries), for nationally recognized performers and an epic dance floor; and Georgie’s Alibi (%954-565-2526; www.alibiwiltonmanors.com; 2266 Wilton Dr; h11am-2am), best for its Wednesday comedy night with Cashetta, a fabulous female impersonator. Spots like Stache offer non-binary nights. There’s even a leather/bear/cowboy club, Ramrod (%954-763-8219; www.ramrodbar.com; 1508 NE 4th Ave; h3pm-2am).
Gay guesthouses are plentiful; visit www.gayftlauderdale.com. Consult the glossy weekly rag Hot Spots (www.hotspotsmagazine.com) to keep updated on gay nightlife. For the most insanely comprehensive list of everything gay, log on to www.jumponmarkslist.com.
6Drinking & Entertainment
Fort Lauderdale bars can stay open until 4am on weekends and 2am during the week. A handful of great bars and pubs are found in the Himmarshee Village area on SW 2nd St, while the beach offers plenty of open-air boozing.
oRok:BrgrPUB
(%954-525-7656; www.rokbrgr.com; 208 SW 2nd St; h11:30am-midnight Mon-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat, 10am-11pm Sun)
One of several dining spots in this strip of hip bars and restaurants, Rok:Brgr shoots for a 1920s Chicago-era ‘American kitchen’ and pulls it off. Edison light bulbs and contemporary industrial decor creates the ambience, while the cuisine is contemporary – gourmet burgers using locally sourced ingredients, plus Prohibition-style cocktails.
oStacheCOCKTAIL BAR
(%954-449-1044; www.stacheftl.com; 109 SW 2nd Ave; h7am-5pm Mon & Thu, to 4am Fri, 8pm-4am Sat)
A tall, sleek and sexy 1920s-themed drinking den serving crafted cocktails and rocking a crossover classic rock/funk/soul/R&B blend. At weekends there’s live music, dancing and burlesque. Dress up; this is where the cool cats come to play. Serves coffee during the day; open late on weekends only. ‘Non-binary night’ is one of their themed evenings.
Revolutions LiveCONCERT VENUE
(%954-449-1025; www.jointherevolution.net; 100 SW 3rd Ave; varies, usually per person from $25; hvaries)
Great event space with concerts that range from local up-and-comings to legends and household names. It’s a multilevel space where up to 1300 people can rock on, and you actually have to try hard to not get a good view of the performers. No smoking is allowed.
Blue Jean BluesJAZZ
(%954-306-6330; www.bjblive.com; 3320 NE 33rd St; snacks $9-17; h11am-2am Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat)
Get away from the beach for a low-key evening of jazz and blues at this cool little neighborhood bar, often packed. There’s live music seven nights and four afternoons a week, featuring a who’s who of the southern Florida music scene. From East Sunrise Blvd head north for 2.3 miles and then turn left onto NE 33rd Street.
8Information
Greater Fort Lauderdale Convention & Visitors Bureau (%954-765-4466; www.sunny.org; 101 NE 3rd Ave, Suite 100; h8:30am-5pm Mon-Fri) Has an excellent array of visitor information about the greater Fort Lauderdale region.
8Getting There & Around
Fort Lauderdale is served by its own international airport (FLL; %866-435-9355; www.broward.org/airport; 100 Terminal Dr).
If you’re driving here, I-95 and Florida’s Turnpike run north–south and provide good access to Fort Lauderdale. I-595, the major east–west artery, intersects I-95, Florida’s Turnpike and the Sawgrass Expwy. It also feeds into I-75, which runs to Florida’s west coast.
Sun Trolley (%954-876-5539; www.suntrolley.com; per ride/day $1/3; h10:30am-5pm) runs between Las Olas and the beaches between 9:30am and 6:30pm Friday to Monday. Broward County Transit (BCT; www.broward.org/bct; single fare/day pass $2/5) operates between downtown, the beach and Port Everglades. From Broward Central Terminal (101 NW 1st Ave), take bus 11 to upper Fort Lauderdale Beach and Lauderdale-by-the-Sea; bus 4 to Port Everglades; and bus 40 to 17th St and the beaches.
The fun, yellow water taxi (%954-467-6677; www.watertaxi.com; day pass adult/child $28/14) travels the canals and waterways between 17th St to the south, Atlantic Blvd/Pompano Beach to the north, the Riverwalk to the west and the Atlantic Ocean to the east. There are also services to Hollywood ($15 per person).
Palm Beach
The third-wealthiest city in America, Palm Beach, a barrier island connected by bridges to the mainland, is home to dozens of billionaires and looks every inch the playground for the rich and famous. Palatial Greco-Roman mansions line the shore; Bentleys and Porsches cruise the wide avenues of downtown; you may even see an entirely chrome Rolls Royce or two. Life here revolves around charity balls, designer shopping and cocktail-soaked lunches. Though all the bling may make you nauseated, fear not – much of Palm Beach is within the reach of all travelers. Stroll along the truly gold Gold Coast beach, ogle the massive gated compounds on A1A or window-shop in uber-ritzy Worth Ave – all for free.
These days, Palm Beach is frequently in the news because of US president Donald Trump, whose mansion-cum-private-club, Mar-a-Lago, is here.
Despite all the glitz, the architecture and history is nothing but fascinating, and offers some insight into how it might have been to live during the Gilded Age of late-19th-century USA.
1Sights & Activities
Worth AvenueAREA
This quarter-mile, palm-tree-lined strip of more than 200 high-end brand shops is like the Rodeo Dr of the East. You can trace its history back to the 1920s when the now-gone Everglades Club staged weekly fashion shows and launched the careers of designers such as Elizabeth Arden. Even if you don’t have the slightest urge to sling a swag of glossy bags over your arm, the people-watching is priceless, as is the Spanish Revival architecture.
oFlagler MuseumMUSEUM
(%561-655-2833; www.flaglermuseum.us; 1 Whitehall Way; adult/child $18/10; h10am-5pm Tue-Sat, from noon Sun)
This museum is housed in the spectacular 1902 mansion built by Henry Flagler as a gift for his bride, Mary Lily Kenan. The beaux arts–styled Whitehall was one of the most modern houses of its era and quickly became the focus of the winter season. It was designed by John Carrère and Thomas Hastings, both students of the Ecole des Beaux-Arts in Paris and collaborators on other Gilded Age landmarks such as the New York Public Library.
oPalm Beach Lake TrailCYCLING
(Royal Palm Way, at the Intracoastal Waterway)
Running along the Intracoastal Waterway, this 5-mile paved path stretches from Worth Ave (in the south) to Indian Rd (in the north). Nicknamed ‘The Trail of Conspicuous Consumption,’ it is sandwiched between two amazing views: Lake Worth lagoon to the west, and an unending series of mansions to the east, and it originally allowed Flagler hotel guests to check out the social scene.
Palm Beach Bicycle Trail ShopCYCLING
(%561-659-4583; http://palmbeachbicycle.com; 50 Cocoanut Row, Suite 117, In the Slat House; bikes/electric bikes per day $49/89; h9am-5:30pm Mon-Sat, 10am-5pm Sun)
This shop rents out bikes and electric bikes at a convenient spot for cycling. Helmets cost $5 extra.
4Sleeping & Eating
Bradley Park HotelHOTEL$$
(%561-832-7050; www.bradleyparkhotel.com; 2080 Sunset Ave; r $229, ste $329-359; paW)
Though undergoing restoration at the time of research, the midrange Bradley (built in 1921) offers large rooms and will likely retain much of its previous charm. Some rooms included original features from the era and characterful furniture. It’s located just a short walk from the shops and restaurants of Royal Poinciana Way. Expect that the decor may change but the grandeur will remain.
oBreakersRESORT$$$
(%855-801-7057; www.thebreakers.com; 1 S County Rd; r/ste from $699/2000; pnaiWs) S
Originally built by Henry Flagler (in 1904, rooms cost $4 per night, including meals), today this 538-room resort sprawls across 140 acres and boasts a staff of 2000 plus, fluent in 56 languages. Just feet from the county’s best snorkeling, this palace has two 18-hole golf courses, a mile of semiprivate beach, four pools and the best brunch around.
Surfside DinerDINER, BREAKFAST$
(%561-659-7495; 314 S County Rd; mains $8-13; h8am-3pm)
This classy remake of a classic diner serves decent breakfasts and brunch. Pancakes, chicken breakfast burritos and French toast are all tasty. For lunch there’s a healthy offering of grilled cheese and tomato soup, BLTs, PB&Js and sliders.
oBūccanAMERICAN$$$
(%561-833-3450; www.buccanpalmbeach.com; 350 S County Rd; mains $18-40; h5pm-10pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat)
With its modern American menu and James Beard–nominated chef, Clay Conley, at the helm, Būccan is the ‘it’ place to eat in Palm Beach. Flavor-hop with a selection of small plates, including smoked chicken sliders, and move on to snapper ceviche. Reservations recommended.
The bar will stay open later if it’s busy, to midnight Sunday to Thursday and to 1am on Friday and Saturday.
oCafé BouludFRENCH$$$
(%561-655-6060; www.cafeboulud.com/palmbeach; 301 Australian Ave; mains $16-49, fixed-price menu $48; hcafe 7am-11pm, bar to midnight)
Created by renowned New York chef Daniel Boulud, the restaurant at the Brazilian Court hotel is one of the few places in Palm Beach that truly justifies the sky-high prices. The warm dining room, beautiful lit-marble bar, and terrace complements a rich menu of classic French and fusion dishes, all displaying Boulud’s signature sophistication and subtlety.
6Drinking & Entertainment
Leopard LoungeLOUNGE
(www.chesterfieldpb.com; 363 Cocoanut Row; h7am-2:30pm & 5:30-11pm Mon-Fri, to midnight or later Sat & Sun)
This gold, black and red lounge attracts a mature crowd and the occasional celeb (neither photos nor autograph hounds are allowed). The piano player and the waitstaff give off a there’s-a-place-they’d-rather-be vibe, but if you want to relax with a drink or strike up a chat with someone next to you, this is the spot.
Society of the Four ArtsPERFORMING ARTS
(%561-655-7226; www.fourarts.org; 2 Four Arts Plaza)
The concert series here includes cabaret, the Palm Beach Symphony, chamber orchestras, string quartets and piano performances.
8Information
Chamber of Commerce (%561-655-3282; www.palmbeachchamber.com; 400 Royal Palm Way, Suite 106; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri) Excellent maps and racks of pamphlets, plus a dog to pat.
8Getting There & Around
Palm Tran (http://discover.pbcgov.org/palmtran; per ride $2, day pass $5) bus 41 covers the bulk of the island, from Lantana Rd to Sunrise Ave; transfer to bus 1 at Publix to go north or south along Hwy 1. To get to Palm Beach International Airport in West Palm Beach, take bus 41 to the downtown transfer and hop on bus 44.
Though it’s a fairly compact city, the two major downtown neighborhoods, centered on Royal Poinciana Way and Worth Ave, are a fair hike apart.
West Palm Beach
When Henry Flagler decided to develop what is now West Palm Beach, he knew precisely what it would become: a working-class community for the labor force that would support his glittering resort town across the causeway. And so the fraternal twins were born – Palm Beach, considered the fairer of the two, and West Palm Beach, a cooler work-hard-play-hard community. West Palm has a surprisingly diverse collection of restaurants, friendly inhabitants (including a strong gay community) and a gorgeous waterway that always seems to reflect the perfect amount of starlight.
1Sights & Activities
oNorton Museum of ArtMUSEUM
(%561-832-5196; www.norton.org; 1451 S Olive Ave; adult/child $18/5, free on Sat; h10am-5pm Mon, Tue, Thu & Sat, to 10pm Fri, from 11am Sun)
This is the largest art museum in Florida and arguably the most impressive. It opened in 1941 to display the enormous art collection of industrialist Ralph Hubbard Norton and his wife Elizabeth. The Nortons’ permanent collection of more than 5000 pieces (including works by Matisse, Warhol and O’Keeffe) is displayed alongside important Chinese, pre-Columbian Mexican and Southwestern USA artifacts, plus some wonderful contemporary photography and regular traveling exhibitions.
South Florida Science Center & AquariumMUSEUM
(%561-832-1988; www.sfsciencecenter.org; 4801 Dreher Trail North; adult/child $18/14; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun)
A great little hands-on science center, aquarium and planetarium with weekend programs, traveling exhibits, a science trail, mini-golf and butterfly garden. On the last Friday of the month the museum stays open from 6pm to 9pm so you can view the night sky from the county’s only public observatory (weather permitting). Prices change according to the exhibition.
Peanut IslandISLAND
(http://discover.pbcgov.org; $12 round-trip; h11am-4pm Thu-Sun)
Plopped right off the northeastern corner of West Palm, Peanut Island was created in 1918 by dredging projects. Originally named Inlet Island, the spit was renamed for a peanut-oil-shipping operation that failed in 1946. There is even a disused nuclear fallout bunker that was constructed for John F Kennedy during the days of the Cuban missile crisis (although it was closed at the time of research).
Rapids Water ParkWATER PARK
(%561-848-6272; www.rapidswaterpark.com; 6566 North Military Trail, Riviera Beach; weekday/weekend $46/52; h10am-5pm mid-Mar-Dec, to 7pm or 9pm Jun-Aug)
South Florida’s largest water park features 30 action-packed acres of wet and wild rides. Don’t let the squeals of fear and delight from the Big Thunder funnel put you off. Awesome fun. Parking costs an extra $15.
4Sleeping
Hotel BibaMOTEL$
(%561-832-0094; www.hotelbiba.com; 320 Belvedere Rd; r $149-179; paWs)
With plain, white, slightly missing-a-small-something rooms, this place lacks a bit of color, but is one of the better (if only) budget options around. It’s well located – only a block from the Intracoastal, and perched on the edge of the El Cid district. Suffice to say it’s clean and fine if you just want a bed. Includes a simple Continental breakfast.
oGrandview GardensB&B$$
(%561-833-9023; www.grandview-gardens.com; 1608 Lake Ave; r $139-249; paWs)
Book a room at this intimate resort and you’ll feel like a local in no time. Hidden in a tropical garden on Howard Park, the enormous suites with their wrought-iron and four-poster beds access the pool patio through French doors. They’re decorated to reflect the Spanish Mediterranean style that is so popular in these parts.
5Eating
oGrandview Public MarketMARKET$
(www.grandviewpublic.com; 1401 Clare Ave; h7am-10:30pm)
Recently opened, the Grandview Public Market is an expansive array of small shops, stalls and foodcarts with all kinds of offerings. This is by far the best option for budget travelers or a group who may want individual items. The selection ranges from Cuban sandwiches to Thai rolled ice cream and everything in between. Plenty of public seating, too!
Restoration HardwareBRASSERIE$$
(%561-804-6826; www.restorationhardware.com; 560 Okeechobee Blvd; mains $19-27; h10am-8pm Mon-Sat, 11am-7pm Sun)
Both the name and the location (atop a furniture store) belie the exquisite experience that awaits those who seek out Restoration Hardware, an as-ritzy-as-it-gets rooftop dining experience with a full bar and spectacular wine room. Presentation is as lovely as the food is tasty, with beautiful salads, artfully presented burgers and snazzy lobster rolls.
DarbsterVEGAN$$
(%561-586-2622; www.darbster.com; 8020 S Dixie Hwy; mains $12-18; h5-10pm Tue-Fri, 10:30am-3pm & 5-10pm Sat, to 9pm Sun)
This place is out on a limb in many respects: it’s 5 miles south of town in an incongruous location by the S Dixie Hwy on the Palm Beach canal; the menu is 100% vegan; all profits go to a foundation for animal care; and it attracts everyone from Birkenstock-wearing hippies to diamond-wearing Palm Beachers.
oTable 26 DegreesAMERICAN$$$
(%561-855-2660; www.table26palmbeach.com; 1700 S Dixie Hwy; mains $20-49; h11:30am-2pm Mon-Sat, from 10:30am Sun, plus 4:30-10pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat)
Don’t be put off by the price of this sophisticated restaurant. It is filled with locals, conversation and the clinking of glasses for good reason. They flock here for the bar (great happy hour 4:30pm to 6:30pm daily) plus the share plates and mains that are divided by water, land, field, and hands (the latter covers fried chicken and burgers).
6Drinking & Entertainment
RoostersGAY
(%561-832-9119; www.roosterswpb.com; 823 Belvedere Rd; h3pm-3am Sun-Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat)
A mainstay of West Palm’s thriving gay community, this bar has been offering popcorn, hot dogs, bingo and hot male dancers since 1984.
oVoltaireCLUB
(%561-408-5603; www.voltairewpb.com; 526 Clematis St; h8pm-2am Sun-Wed, to 3am Thu, to 4am Fri-Sat)
Part of the Subculture umbrella and next door to Respectable Street, Voltaire is the wildebeest of clubs: fresh sushi, craft cocktails and live music don’t always go together, but this quirky spot is fantastic, offering great drinks, excellent maki and nigiri, and some fun, interesting bands. Spoken word, live-mic nights, and other events happen here too. Don’t miss it!
Respectable StreetLIVE MUSIC
(%561-832-9999; www.respectablestreet.com; 518 Clematis St; h9pm-3am Wed-Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat)
Respectables has kept South Florida jamming to great bands for two decades; it also organizes October’s MoonFest, the city’s best block party. Great DJs, strong drinks and a breezy chill-out patio are added bonuses. See if you can find the hole that the Red Hot Chili Peppers’ Anthony Kiedis punched in the wall when they played here.
International Polo ClubSPECTATOR SPORT
(%561-204-5687; www.internationalpoloclub.com; 3667 120th Ave S, Wellington; general admission $10, lawn seating from $30; hSun Jan-Apr)
Between January and April the International Polo Club hosts 16 weeks of polo and glamour. As one of the finest polo facilities in the world, it not only attracts the most elite players but also the local and international glitterati who whoop it up in head-turning fashion over champagne brunches ($125, with bottle of Veuve Cliquot, $325). Why not?
8Information
The Palm Beach Post (www.palmbeachpost.com) is the largest paper.
Discover The Palm Beaches Visitor Center (%561-233-3000; www.thepalmbeaches.com; 2195 Southern Blvd, Suite 400; h8:30am-5:30pm Mon-Fri) is a good for area information, maps and online guides.
Music lovers will want to pick up a free copy of Pure Honey (www.purehoneymagazine.com) for details of great music, live shows and other entertainment going on.
8Getting There & Around
Palm Beach International Airport (PBI; %561-471-7420; www.pbia.org; 1000 James L Turnage Blvd) is served by most major airlines and car-rental companies. It’s about a mile west of I-95 on Belvedere Rd. Palm Tran bus 44 runs between the airport, the train station and downtown ($2).
Greyhound (%561-833-8534; www.greyhound.com; 205 S Tamarind Ave; h6am-10:45pm), Tri-Rail (%800-875-7245; www.tri-rail.com; 203 S Tamarind Ave) and Amtrak (%800-872-7245; www.amtrak.com; 209 S Tamarind Ave) share the same building: the historic Seaboard Train Station. Palm Tran serves the station with bus 44 (from the airport).
A cute and convenient (and free!) trolley runs between Clematis St and CityPlace starting at 11am.
The Everglades
There is no wilderness in America quite like the Everglades. Called the ‘River of Grass’ by Native American inhabitants, this is not just a wetland, or a swamp, or a lake, or a river, or a prairie, or a grassland – it is all of those, twisted together into a series of soft horizons, long vistas, sunsets that stretch across your entire field of vision and the toothy grins of a healthy population of dinosaur-era reptiles.
The park’s quiet majesty is evident when you see anhinga flexing their wings before breaking into a corkscrew dive, or the slow, rhythmic flap of a great blue heron gliding over its domain, or the shimmer of light on miles of untrammeled saw grass as the sun sets behind hunkering cypress domes. In a nation where natural beauty is measured by its capacity for drama, the Everglades subtly, contentedly flows on.
Everglades National Park
This vast wilderness (%305-242-7700; www.nps.gov/ever; 40001 SR-9336, Homestead; hvisitor center 9am-5pm), encompassing 1.5 million acres, is one of America’s great natural treasures. There’s much to see and do – from spying alligators basking in the noonday sun as herons stalk patiently through nearby waters in search of prey, to going kayaking in mangrove canals and on peaceful lakes. You can also wade into murky knee-high waters among cypress domes on a rough-and-ready ‘slough slog.’
There are sunrise strolls on boardwalks amid the awakening glimmers of birdsong, and moonlit glimpses of gators swimming gracefully along narrow channels in search of dinner. Backcountry camping, bicycle tours and ranger-led activities help bring the magic of this place to life. The biggest challenge is really just deciding where to begin.
There are three main entrances and three main areas of the park: one along the southeast edge near Homestead and Florida City (Ernest Coe section); at the central-north side on the Tamiami Trail (Shark Valley section); and a third at the northwest shore (Gulf Coast section), past Everglades City. The Shark Valley and Gulf Coast sections of the park come one after the other in geographic succession, but the Ernest Coe area is entirely separate.
The admission fee – $30 per vehicle, $15 per hiker and cyclist – covers the whole park, and is good for seven consecutive days. Because the Tamiami Trail is a public road, there’s no admission to access national park sights along this highway, aside from Shark Valley. In the southern half of the park, one staffed checkpoint oversees access to all sights on the road between Ernest Coe down to Flamingo.
Three types of backcountry campsites (%239-695-3311, 239-695-2945; www.nps.gov/ever/planyourvisit/backcamp.htm; hFlamingo & Gulf Coast Visitor Centers 8am-4.30pm) are available: beach sites, on coastal shell beaches and in the 10,000 Islands; ground sites, which are basically mounds of dirt built up above the mangroves; and chickees, wooden platforms built above the waterline where you can pitch a freestanding (no spikes) tent. Chickees, which have toilets, are the most civilized – there’s a serenity found in sleeping on what feels like a raft levitating above the water. Ground sites tend to be the most bug infested.
From November to April, backcountry camping permits cost $15, plus $2 per person per night; from May to October sites are free, but you must still self-register at Flamingo and Gulf Coast Visitor Centers or call %239-695-2945.
Warning: if you’re paddling around and see an island that looks pleasant for camping but isn’t a designated campsite, beware – you may end up submerged when the tides change.
Some backcountry tips:
A Store food in a hand-sized, raccoon-proof container (available at gear stores).
A Bury your waste at least 10in below ground, but keep in mind some ground sites have hard turf.
A Use a backcountry stove to cook. Ground fires are only permitted at beach sites, and you can only burn dead or downed wood.
Load up on provisions before you enter the park. Homestead or Florida City are your best options if going into the Southern Everglades. If heading to the Tamiami Trail, plan to stock up in Miami – or the western suburbs.
8Getting There & Around
The largest subtropical wilderness in the continental USA is easily accessible from Miami. The Glades, which comprise the 80 southernmost miles of Florida, are bound by the Atlantic Ocean to the east and the Gulf of Mexico to the west. The Tamiami Trail (Hwy 41) goes east–west, parallel to the more northern (and less interesting) Alligator Alley (I-75).
You need a car to properly enter the Everglades and once you’re in, wearing a good pair of walking boots is essential to penetrate the interior. Having a canoe or a kayak helps as well; these can be rented from outfits inside and outside the park, or else you can seek out guided canoe and kayak tours. Bicycles are well suited to the flat roads of Everglades National Park, particularly in the area between Ernest Coe and Flamingo Point. Road shoulders in the park tend to be dangerously small.
Around the Everglades
Biscayne National Park
Just to the east of the Everglades is Biscayne National Park (%305-230-1144, boat tours 786-335-3644; www.nps.gov/bisc; 9700 SW 328th St; boat tours adult/child $35/25; h7am-5:30pm), or the 5% of it that isn’t underwater. In fact, a portion of the world’s third-largest reef sits here off the coast of Florida, along with mangrove forests and the northernmost Florida Keys. This is some of the best reef viewing and snorkeling you’ll find in the USA, outside Hawaii and nearby Key Largo.
Biscayne requires a little extra planning, but you’ll be rewarded for your effort. This unique 300-sq-mile park is easy to explore independently with a canoe, or via a boat tour. Generally summer and fall are the best times to visit the park; you’ll want to snorkel when the water is calm. The offshore Keys, accessible only by boat, offer pristine opportunities for camping.
Primitive camping (www.nps.gov/bisc/planyourvisit/camping.htm; tent sites per night $25, May-Sep free) is available on Elliott and Boca Chita Keys, though you’ll need a boat to get there. No-see-ums (tiny flies) are invasive, and their bites are devastating. Make sure your tent is devoid of minuscule entry points.
8Information
Dante Fascell Visitor Center (%305-230-1144; www.nps.gov/bisc; 9700 SW 328th St; h9am-5pm) Located at Convoy Point, this center shows a great introductory film for an overview of the park, and has maps, information and excellent ranger activities. The grounds around the center are a popular picnic spot on weekends and holidays, especially for families from Homestead. Also showcases local artwork.
8Getting There & Away
To get here, you’ll have to drive about 9 miles east of Homestead (the way is pretty well signposted) on SW 328th St (North Canal Dr) into a long series of green-and-gold flat fields and marsh.
Homestead & Florida City
Homestead and neighboring Florida City, 2 miles to the south, aren’t of obvious appeal upon arrival. Part of the ever-expanding subdivisions of South Miami, this bustling corridor can feel like an endless strip of big-box shopping centers, fast-food joints, car dealerships and gas stations. However, look beneath the veneer and you’ll find much more than meets the eye: strange curiosities like a ‘castle’ built single-handedly by one lovestruck immigrant, an animal rescue center for exotic species, a winery showcasing Florida’s produce (hint: it’s not grapes), an up-and-coming microbrewery, and one of the best farm stands in America.
This area makes a great base for forays into the stunning Everglades National Park.
1Sights & Activities
oCoral CastleCASTLE
(%305-248-6345; www.coralcastle.com; 28655 S Dixie Hwy; adult/senior/child $18/15/8; h8am-6pm Sun-Thu, to 8pm Fri & Sat)
‘You will be seeing unusual accomplishment,’ reads the inscription on the rough-hewn quarried wall. That’s an understatement. There is no greater temple to all that is weird and wacky about South Florida. The legend goes that a Latvian man got snubbed at the altar, came to the USA and settled in Florida, and handcarved, unseen, in the dead of night, a monument to unrequited love.
Everglades OutpostWILDLIFE RESERVE
(%305-562-8000; www.evergladesoutpost.org; 35601 SW 192nd Ave, Homestead; adult/child $15/10; h10am-5:30pm Mon, Tue & Fri-Sun, by appointment Wed & Thu)
The Everglades Outpost houses, feeds and cares for wild animals that have been seized from illegal traders, abused, neglected or donated by people who could not care for them. Residents of the outpost include a lemur, wolves, a black bear, a zebra, cobras, alligators and a pair of majestic tigers (one of whom was bought by an exotic dancer who thought she could incorporate it into her act). Your money goes toward helping the outpost’s mission.
Garls Coastal Kayaking EvergladesKAYAKING
(www.garlscoastalkayaking.com; 19200 SW 344th St, Homestead; single/double kayak per day $40/55, half-/full-day tour $125/150)
On the property of the Robert Is Here (%305-246-1592; www.robertishere.com; juices $7-9; h8am-7pm) S fruit stand, this outfitter leads highly recommended excursions into the Everglades. A full-day outing includes hiking (more of a wet walk or slog into the lush landscape of cypress domes), followed by kayaking in both the mangroves and in Florida Bay, and, time permitting, a night walk.
4Sleeping & Eating
oHoosville HostelHOSTEL$
(%305-248-1122; www.hoosvillehostel.com; 20 SW 2nd Ave, Florida City; tent sites per person $18, dm $35, d $65-80, ste $149-190; paWs)
Formerly the Everglades International Hostel, the Hoosville has kept the good-value dorms, private rooms and ‘semi-privates’ (you have an enclosed room within the dorms and share a bathroom with dorm residents). The creatively configured backyard is the best feature. There’s a small rock-cut pool with a waterfall and a gazebo.
Gator GrillAMERICAN$
(%786-243-0620; 36650 SW 192nd Ave, Homestead; mains $9-16; h11am-6:30pm)
A handy pit stop before or after visiting the Everglades National Park, the Gator Grill is a white shack with picnic tables, where you can munch on all manner of alligator dishes. There are gator tacos, gator stir-fry, gator kebabs and straight-up fried alligator served in a basket.
8Information
There are several info centers where you can get tips on attractions, lodging and dining.
Chamber of Commerce (%305-247-2332; www.southdadechamber.org; 455 N Flagler Ave, Homestead; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri)
Tropical Everglades Visitor Association (www.tropicaleverglades.com; 160 N 1st St, Florida City; h8am-5pm Mon-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun)
8Getting There & Away
Homestead runs a free weekend trolley bus service (%305-224-4457; www.cityofhomestead.com; hSat & Sun Dec-Apr), which takes visitors from Losner Park (downtown Homestead) out to the Royal Palm Visitor Center (%305-242-7700; www.nps.gov/ever; State Rd 9336; h9am-4:15pm) in Everglades National Park. It also runs between Losner Park and Biscayne National Park. Call for the latest departure times.
Tamiami Trail
Calle Ocho, in Miami’s Little Havana, is the eastern end of the Tamiami Trail/Hwy 41, which cuts through the Everglades to the Gulf of Mexico. So going west along Hwy 41, you may only cross a few dozen miles but you’ll feel several different worlds away – this trip leads you into the northern edges of the Everglades, past long landscapes of flooded forest, pine woods, gambling halls, swamp-buggy tours and roadside food shacks.
Airboat tours are an old-school way of seeing the Everglades (and there is something to be said for getting a tour from a raging Skynyrd fan with killer tats and better camo), but there are other ways of exploring the park as well.
1Sights & Activities
oFakahatchee Strand PreservePARK
(%239-695-4593; www.floridastateparks.org/parks-and-trails/fakahatchee-strand-preserve-state-park; 137 Coastline Dr, Copeland; vehicle/pedestrian/bicycle $3/2/2; h8am-sunset; pc) S
The Fakahatchee Strand, besides having a fantastic name, also houses a 20-mile by 5-mile estuarine wetland that looks like something from the beginning of time. A 2000ft boardwalk traverses this wet and wild wonderland, where panthers still stalk their prey amid the black waters. While it’s unlikely you’ll spot any panthers, there’s a great chance you’ll see a large variety of blooming orchids, bird life and reptiles ranging in size from tiny skinks to grinning alligators.
Shark Valley Tram TourTOURS
(%305-221-8455; www.sharkvalleytramtours.com; adult/child under 12yr/senior $25/19/12.75; hdepartures 9:30am, 11am, 2pm & 4pm May-Dec, 9am-4pm Jan-Apr hourly on the hour)
This excellent two-hour tour runs along a 15-mile asphalt trail allowing you to see copious amounts of alligators in the winter months. Tours are narrated by knowledgeable park rangers who give a fascinating overview of the Everglades.
8Information
Shark Valley Visitor Center (%305-221-8776; www.nps.gov/ever/planyourvisit/svdirections.htm; national park entry per vehicle/bicycle/pedestrian $25/8/8; h9am-5pm) A good place to pick up information about the Everglades, including trails, wildlife watching and free ranger-led activities.
DETOUR: LOOP ROAD
The 24-mile-long Loop Rd, off Tamiami Trail (Hwy 41), offers some unique sites. One: the homes of the Miccosukee, some of which have been considerably expanded by gambling revenue. You’ll see some traditional chickee-style huts and some trailers with massive add-on wings that are bigger than the original trailer – all seem to have shiny new pickup trucks parked out front. Two: great pull-offs for viewing flooded forests, where egrets that look like pterodactyls perch in the trees, and alligators lurk in the depths below. Three: houses with large Confederate flags and ‘Stay off my property’ signs; these homes are as much a part of the landscape as the swamp. And four: the short, pleasantly jungly Tree Snail Hammock Nature Trail. Though unpaved, the graded road is in good shape and fine for 2WD vehicles. True to its name, the road loops right back onto the Tamiami; expect a leisurely jaunt on the Loop to add an hour or two to your trip.
Everglades City
On the edge of Chokoloskee Bay, you’ll find an Old Florida fishing village of raised houses, turquoise water and scattershot emerald-green mangrove islands. ‘City’ is stretching it for Everglades City – this is really a friendly fishing town where you can easily lose yourself for a day or three. You’ll find some intriguing vestiges of the past here, including an excellent regional museum, as well as delicious seafood.
Hwy 29 runs south through town onto the small, peaceful residential island of Chokoloskee, which has some pretty views over the watery wilderness of the 10,000 Islands. You can arrange boating excursions from either Everglades City or Chokoloskee to explore this pristine environment.
1Sights & Activities
oMuseum of the EvergladesMUSEUM
(%239-695-0008; www.evergladesmuseum.org; 105 W Broadway, Everglades City; h9am-4pm Mon-Sat; p) F
For a break from the outdoors, don’t miss this small museum run by volunteers who have a wealth of knowledge on the region’s history. Located in the town’s former laundry house, the collection delves into human settlement in the area from the early pioneers of the 1800s to the boom days of the 1920s and its tragic moments (Hurricane Donna devastated the town in 1960), and subsequent transformation into the quiet backwater of today.
10,000 IslandsISLAND
One of the best ways to experience the serenity of the Everglades – somehow desolate yet lush, tropical and forbidding – is by paddling the network of waterways that skirt the northwest portion of the park. The 10,000 Islands consist of many (but not really 10,000) tiny islands and a mangrove swamp that hugs the southwestern-most border of Florida.
Everglades AdventuresCANOEING
(%877-567-0679; www.evergladesadventures.com; 107 Camellia St, Everglades City; 3-4hr tours from $99, canoe/kayak rental per day from $30/50) S
For a real taste of the Everglades, nothing beats getting out on the water. This highly recommended outfitter offers a range of half-day kayak tours, from sunrise paddles to twilight trips through mangroves that return under a sky full of stars. Tours shuttle you to places like Chokoloskee Island, Collier-Seminole State Park, Rabbit Key or Tiger Key for excursions.
4Sleeping & Eating
Outdoor Resorts of ChokoloskeeMOTEL$
(%239-695-2881; www.outdoorresortsofchokoloskee.com; 150 Smallwood Dr, Chokoloskee; r $119; as)
At the northern end of Chokoloskee Island, this good-value place is a big draw for its extensive facilities, including several swimming pools, hot tubs, tennis and shuffleboard courts, a fitness center and boat rentals. The fairly basic motel-style rooms have kitchenettes and a back deck overlooking the marina.
Everglades City MotelMOTEL$$
(%239-695-4224; www.evergladescitymotel.com; 310 Collier Ave, Everglades City; r $150-250; paW)
With large rooms that have all the mod cons (flat-screen TVs, fridge, coffeemaker) and friendly staff who can hook you up with boat tours, this motel provides good value for those looking to spend some time near the 10,000 Islands.
oHavana CafeLATIN AMERICAN$$
(%239-695-2214; www.havanacafeoftheeverglades.com; 191 Smallwood Dr, Chokoloskee; mains lunch $10-19, dinner $22-30; h7am-3pm Mon-Thu, to 8pm Fri & Sat, closed mid-Apr–mid-Oct)
This cafe is famed far and wide for its deliciously prepared seafood served with Latin accents. Lunch favorites include stone-crab enchiladas, blackened grouper with rice and beans, and a decadent Cuban sandwich. The outdoor dining amid palm trees and vibrant bougainvillea – not to mention the incredibly friendly service – adds to the appeal.
Oyster HouseSEAFOOD$$
(%239-695-2073; www.oysterhouserestaurant.com; 901 Copeland Ave, Everglades City; mains lunch $12-18, dinner $19-30; h11am-9pm Sun-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat; vc)
Besides serving the Everglades staples of excellent seafood (oysters, crab, grouper, cobia, lobster), this buzzing, family-run spot serves alligator dishes (tacos, jambalaya, fried platters) and simpler baskets (burgers, fried seafood), plus not-to-be-missed desserts. The cabin-like interior is decorated with vintage knickknacks and taxidermy, which might make you feel like you’re in the deep woods.
8Information
Everglades Area Chamber of Commerce (%239-695-3941; cnr Hwys 41 & 29; h9am-4pm) General information about the region is available here.
8Getting There & Away
There is no public transportation out this way. If driving, it’s a fairly straight 85-mile drive west from Miami. The trip takes about 1¾ hours in good traffic.