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USA’s National Parks
Great Lakes
Why Go?
Don’t be fooled by all the corn. Behind it lurks surfing beaches and Tibetan temples, car-free islands and the green-draped night lights of the aurora borealis. The Great Lakes takes its knocks for being middle-of-nowhere boring, so consider the moose-filled national parks and Hemingway, Dylan and Vonnegut sites to be its little secret.
Roll call for the region’s cities starts with Chicago, which unfurls what is arguably the country’s mightiest skyline. Milwaukee keeps the beer-and-Harley flame burning, while Minneapolis shines a hipster beacon out over the fields. Detroit rocks, plain and simple. The Great Lakes themselves are huge, and offer beaches, dunes, resort towns and lighthouse-dotted scenery. Dairy farms and fruit orchards blanket the region, meaning fresh pie and ice cream aplenty. And when the scenery does flatten out? There’s always a goofball roadside attraction, such as the Spam Museum or the world’s biggest ball of twine, to revive imaginations.
When to Go
- Jan & Feb Skiers and snowmobilers hit the trails.
- Jul & Aug Finally, it’s warm! Beer gardens hop, beaches splash, and festivals rock most weekends.
- Sep & Oct Fair weather, bountiful farm and orchard harvests, and shoulder-season bargains.
Best Places to Sleep
A Lora
Great Lakes Highlights
1 Chicago Absorbing the skyscrapers, museums, festivals and foodie bounty.
2 Detroit Embracing the city’s can-do spirit and partaking of its art, eateries and neighborhood bicycle rides.
3 Boundary Waters Paddling deep into the piney woods and sleeping under a blanket of stars.
4 Ohio’s Amish Country Slowing down for clip-clopping horses and buggies.
5 Michigan’s Western Shore Beach lounging, dune climbing, berry eating and surfing.
6 Milwaukee Polka dancing at a Friday-night fish fry and drinking lots o’ beer.
7 Route 66 Taking the slowpoke route through Illinois, past pie-filled diners and oddball roadside attractions.
8 Southern Indiana Being surprised by the Tibetan temples, phenomenal architecture and green hills.
History
The region’s first residents included the Hopewell (around 200 BC) and Mississippi River mound builders (around AD 700). Both left behind mysterious piles of earth that were tombs for their leaders and possibly tributes to their deities. You can see remnants at Cahokia in southern Illinois, and Mound City in southeastern Ohio.
French voyageurs (fur traders) arrived in the early 17th century and established missions and forts. The British turned up soon after that, with the rivalry spilling over into the French and Indian Wars (Seven Years’ War; 1754–61), after which Britain took control of all of the land east of the Mississippi. Following the Revolutionary War, the Great Lakes area became the new USA’s Northwest Territory, which soon was divided into states and locked to the region after it developed its impressive canal and railroad network. But conflicts erupted between the newcomers and the Native Americans, including the 1811 Battle of Tippecanoe in Indiana; the bloody 1832 Black Hawk War in Wisconsin, Illinois and around, which forced indigenous people to move west of the Mississippi; and the 1862 Sioux uprising in Minnesota.
Throughout the late 19th and early 20th centuries, industries sprang up and grew quickly, fueled by resources of coal and iron, and cheap transportation on the lakes. The availability of work brought huge influxes of immigrants from Ireland, Germany, Scandinavia and southern and eastern Europe. For decades after the Civil War, a great number of African Americans also migrated to the region’s urban centers from the South.
The area prospered during WWII and throughout the 1950s, but this was followed by 20 years of social turmoil and economic stagnation. Manufacturing industries declined, which walloped Rust Belt cities such as Detroit and Cleveland with high unemployment and ‘white flight’ (white middle-class families who fled to the suburbs).
The 1980s and ’90s brought urban revitalization. The region’s population increased, notably with newcomers from Asia and Mexico. Growth in the service and high-tech sectors resulted in economic balance, although manufacturing industries such as car making and steel still played a big role, meaning that when the economic crisis hit in 2008, Great Lakes towns felt the pinch first.
Some 10 years later, many of the big cities have rallied. Detroit, Cleveland, Cincinnati and Milwaukee are among those that have experienced reinvigorated cores, where businesses and residents are moving back to the downtown areas and making them shine again.
GREAT LAKES IN…
One Week
Spend the first two days in Chicago stuffing your face and gawking at architecture. On your third day, make the 1½-hour trip to Milwaukee for beer, art and fierce motorcycles. Take the ferry to Michigan and spend your fourth day in Saugatuck. The artsy town booms in summer thanks to its golden beaches, piney breezes, galleries and welcoming bars. Circle back via Indiana Dunes for sandy hikes and swimming, or via Indiana Amish Country for a unique cultural immersion.
Two Weeks
After two days in Chicago, on day three make for Madison to chow in locavore eateries and visit the surrounding quirky sights. Spend your fourth and fifth days at the Apostle Islands boating around wind-bashed cliffs and caves. Then head into Michigan’s Upper Peninsula to visit Marquette and Pictured Rocks for a few days. Both are outdoorsy places with dramatic nature at their doorstep. Follow with a visit to the towering Sleeping Bear Dunes and the foodie restaurants and wineries around Traverse City. Return via the galleries, pies and beaches of Saugatuck.
Illinois
Chicago dominates the state with its sky-high architecture and superlative museums, restaurants and music clubs. But venturing further afield reveals Oak Park, Hemingway’s mannerly hometown, scattered shrines to local hero Abe Lincoln, and a trail of corn dogs, pies and drive-in movie theaters down Route 66. A cypress swamp and a prehistoric World Heritage Site make appearances in Illinois too.
8Information
Illinois Highway Conditions (www.gettingaroundillinois.com)
Illinois Office of Tourism (www.enjoyillinois.com)
Illinois State Park Information (www.dnr.illinois.gov) State parks are free to visit. Campsites cost $6 to $35; some accept reservations (www.reserveamerica.com; fee $5).
Chicago
Steely skyscrapers, top chefs, rocking festivals – the Windy City will blow you away with its low-key cultured awesomeness.
It’s hard to know what to gawk at first. High-flying architecture is everywhere, from the stratospheric, glass-floored Willis Tower to Frank Gehry’s swooping silver Pritzker Pavilion to Frank Lloyd Wright’s stained-glass Robie House. Whimsical public art studs the streets; you might be walking along and wham, there’s an abstract Picasso statue that’s not only cool to look at, but you’re allowed to go right up and climb on it. For art museums, take your pick: impressionist masterpieces at the massive Art Institute, psychedelic paintings at the midsized Museum of Mexican Art or outsider drawings at the small Intuit gallery.
History
Much of Chicago’s past is downright legendary. You’ve probably heard about Mrs O’Leary’s cow that kicked over a lantern that started the Great Fire that torched the city. And about a man named Al Capone who wielded a mean machine gun during an unsavory era of booze-fueled vice. And about the ‘machine’ that has controlled local politics for decades. Throw in the invention of the skyscraper and Ferris wheel, and you’ve got a whopper of a tale.
Downtown Chicago
1Top Sights
1Sights
2Activities, Courses & Tours
4Sleeping
5Eating
6Drinking & Nightlife
3Entertainment
1Sights
Big-ticket draws such as Millennium Park, Willis Tower and the Art Institute are downtown right in the Loop. Next door is the lakefront Museum Campus, with three popular sights including the Field Museum. To the Loop’s north are Navy Pier and the 360° Chicago observatory. A short distance onward Lincoln Park and Wrigley Field do their thing. All of these places are within a 6-mile span, and all are easy to reach on public transportation. Hyde Park is the one neighborhood with top sights that is further flung and requires some planning to reach.
All of the major attractions are open daily. Smaller museums are often closed on Monday and/or Tuesday.
1The Loop
oArt Institute of ChicagoMUSEUM
(map Google map; 
%312-443-3600; www.artic.edu; 111 S Michigan Ave; adult/child $25/free; 
h10:30am-5pm Fri-Wed, to 8pm Thu; 
c; 
mBrown, Orange, Green, Purple, Pink Line to Adams)
The Art Institute is the second-largest art museum in the USA. Its collection of impressionist and post-impressionist paintings rivals those in France, and the number of surrealist works is tremendous. Download the free app for DIY audio tours; it offers several quick-hit jaunts, from highlights (including Georges Seurat’s A Sunday Afternoon on the Island of La Grande Jatte and Edward Hopper’s Nighthawks) to architecture and pop-art tours. Allow two hours to browse the must-sees; art buffs should allocate much longer.
More comprehensive audio guides ($7) are also available in English, Spanish, French and Mandarin. You can buy a ticket in advance online (for a $2 surcharge) but unless there’s a huge exhibit on, the entrance lines move pretty quickly. Or you can skip the lines altogether with the Fast Pass ticket, available online for $10 more.
The main entrance is on Michigan Ave, but you can also enter via the dazzling Modern Wing on Monroe St. Ask at the front desk about free talks and tours once you’re inside. Note that the 3rd-floor contemporary sculpture terrace is always free. It has great city views and connects to Millennium Park via the mod, pedestrian-only Nichols Bridgeway.
oMillennium ParkPARK
(map Google map; %312-742-1168; www.millenniumpark.org; 201 E Randolph St; h6am-11pm; c; mBrown, Orange, Green, Purple, Pink Line to Washington/Wabash)
The city’s showpiece is a trove of free and arty sights. It includes Pritzker Pavilion (map Google map), Frank Gehry’s swooping silver band shell, which hosts free weekly concerts in summer (6:30pm; bring a picnic and bottle of wine); Anish Kapoor’s beloved silvery sculpture Cloud Gate (map Google map), aka the ‘Bean’; and Jaume Plensa’s Crown Fountain (map Google map), a de facto water park that projects video images of locals spitting water, gargoyle-style.
oWillis TowerTOWER
(map Google map; %312-875-9696; www.theskydeck.com; 233 S Wacker Dr; adult/child $24/16; h9am-10pm Mar-Sep, 10am-8pm Oct-Feb, last entry 30min prior; mBrown, Orange, Purple, Pink Line to Quincy)
It’s Chicago’s tallest building, and the 103rd-floor Skydeck puts you high into the heavens. Take the ear-popping, 70-second elevator ride to the top and then step onto one of the glass-floored ledges jutting out into mid-air for a knee-buckling perspective straight down. On clear days the view sweeps over four states. The entrance is on Jackson Blvd. Queues can take up to an hour on busy days (peak times are in summer, between 11am and 4pm Friday through Sunday).
Chicago Cultural CenterNOTABLE BUILDING
(map Google map; %312-744-6630; www.chicagoculturalcenter.org; 78 E Washington St; h10am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun; mBrown, Orange, Green, Purple, Pink Line to Washington/Wabash) 
F
This exquisite, beaux-arts building began its life as the Chicago Public Library in 1897. Today the block-long structure houses terrific art exhibitions (especially the 4th-floor Yates Gallery), as well as classical concerts at lunchtime every Wednesday (12:15pm). It also contains the world’s largest Tiffany stained-glass dome, on the 3rd floor where the library circulation desk used to be. InstaGreeter (map Google map; www.chicagogreeter.com/instagreeter; 77 E Randolph St; h10am-3pm Fri & Sat, 11am-2pm Sun) F tours of the Loop depart from the Randolph St lobby, as do Millennium Park tours. And it’s all free!
Chicago Architecture CenterGALLERY
(map Google map; CAC; %312-922-3432; www.architecture.org; 111 E Wacker Dr; adult/student/child $12/8/free; h9:30am-5pm; 
g151, mBrown, Orange, Green, Purple, Pink Line to Clark/Lake)
The CAC is the premier keeper of Chicago’s architectural flame. Pop in to explore its excellent galleries, which feature an interactive 3-D model of Chicago and displays on the city’s architectural history, as well as giant models of and exhibits on skyscrapers around the world and the amazing technologies needed to build them, from construction to security to sustainability. You can also check out the CAC’s extensive roster of boat and walking tours and make bookings here.
Buckingham FountainFOUNTAIN
(map Google map; 301 S Columbus Dr; mRed Line to Harrison)
Grant Park’s centerpiece is one of the world’s largest fountains, with a 1.5-million-gallon capacity and a 15-story-high spray. It lets loose on the hour from 9am to 11pm early May to mid-October, accompanied at night by multicolored lights and music.
Route 66 SignHISTORIC SITE
(map Google map; E Adams St, btwn S Michigan & Wabash Aves; mBrown, Orange, Green, Purple, Pink Line to Adams)
Attention Route 66 buffs: the Mother Road begins in downtown Chicago. Look for the ‘Historic 66 Begin’ sign at the northwestern corner of Adams St and Michigan Ave, across from the Art Institute. (There’s another sign at the end of the block, but this one is a replica of the original.) From Chicago the route traverses 2400 miles to Los Angeles, past neon signs, mom-and-pop motels and pie-and-coffee diners…but it all starts here.
Museum of Contemporary PhotographyMUSEUM
(map Google map; %312-663-5554; www.mocp.org; 600 S Michigan Ave, Columbia College; h10am-5pm Mon-Wed, Fri & Sat, to 8pm Thu, noon-5pm Sun; mRed Line to Harrison) F
This small museum focuses on American and international photography from the early 20th century onward, and is the only institution of its kind between the coasts. The permanent collection includes the works of Henri Cartier-Bresson, Harry Callahan, Sally Mann, Victor Skrebneski, Catherine Wagner and 500 more of the best photographers working today. Special exhibitions (also free) augment the rotating permanent collection.
CHICAGO IN TWO DAYS…
Day One
You might as well dive right in with the big stuff. Take a boat or walking tour with the Chicago Architecture Foundation and ogle the most sky-scraping collection of buildings the US has to offer. Saunter over to Millennium Park to see the ‘Bean’ reflect the skyline and to splash under Crown Fountain’s human gargoyles.
Explore the Art Institute of Chicago, the nation’s second-largest art museum. It holds masterpieces aplenty, especially impressionist and post-impressionist paintings (and paperweights). Next, head over to Willis Tower, zip up to the 103rd floor and step out onto the glass-floored ledge. Yes, it is a long way down.
The West Loop parties in the evening. Sit on the glittery patio sipping a glass of bubbly at RM Champagne Salon. Haymarket Pub & Brewery pours great beers. Or down a cocktail made with the house vodka at CH Distillery.
Day Two
Take a stroll on Michigan Ave – aka the Magnificent Mile – where big-name department stores ka-ching in a glittering row. Mosey over to Navy Pier. Wander the half-mile promenade and take a spin on the high-in-the-sky Ferris wheel.
Spend the afternoon at the Museum Campus (the water taxi from Navy Pier is a fine way to get there). Miles of aisles of dinosaurs and gemstones stuff the Field Museum of Natural History. Sharks and other fish swim in the kiddie-mobbed Shedd Aquarium. Meteorites and supernovas are on view at the Adler Planetarium.
Wander along Milwaukee Ave and take your pick of booming bars, indie-rock clubs and hipster shops. Quimby’s shows the local spirit: the bookstore stocks zines and graphic novels, and is a linchpin of Chicago’s underground culture The Hideout and Empty Bottle are sweet spots to catch a bad-ass band.
1Pilsen & Near South Side
oField Museum of Natural HistoryMUSEUM
(map Google map; %312-922-9410; www.fieldmuseum.org; 1400 S Lake Shore Dr, Near South Side; adult/child $24/17; h9am-5pm; c; g146, 130)
The Field Museum houses some 30 million artifacts and includes everything but the kitchen sink – beetles, mummies, gemstones, Bushman the stuffed ape – all tended by a slew of PhD-wielding scientists, as the Field remains an active research institution. The collection’s rock star is Sue, the largest Tyrannosaurus rex yet discovered. She even gets her own gift shop. Special exhibits, such as the 3-D movie, cost extra. Other highlights include ‘Inside Ancient Egypt,’ a burial chamber reproduction that contains 23 real mummies; the Hall of Gems; and the Northwest Coast and Arctic Peoples’ totem pole collection. The museum is vast, so get a map at the desk and make a plan of attack.
Northerly IslandPARK
(1521 S Linn White Dr, Near South Side; g146, 130)
This prairie-grassed park has a walking and cycling trail, bird-watching, fishing and an outdoor venue for concerts. It’s actually a peninsula, not an island, but the Chicago skyline views are tremendous no matter what you call it. Stop in at the field house, if it’s open, for tour information. Bicycles are available at the Divvy bike-share station by the Adler Planetarium. Note that parts of the trail are closed at times due to weather damage.
oNational Museum of Mexican ArtMUSEUM
(map; %312-738-1503; www.nationalmuseumofmexicanart.org; 1852 W 19th St, Pilsen; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun; mPink Line to 18th St) F
Founded in 1982, this vibrant museum – the largest Latinx arts institution in the US – has become one of the city’s best. The vivid permanent collection sums up 1000 years of Mexican art and culture through classical paintings, shining gold altars, skeleton-rich folk art, beadwork and much more.
Adler PlanetariumMUSEUM
(map Google map; %312-922-7827; www.adlerplanetarium.org; 1300 S Lake Shore Dr, Near South Side; adult/child $12/8; h9:30am-4pm; c; g146, 130)
Space enthusiasts will get a big bang (pun!) out of the Adler. There are public telescopes to view the stars (10am to 1pm daily, by the Galileo Cafe), 3-D lectures to learn about supernovas (in the Space Visualization Lab), and the Planet Explorers exhibit where kids can ‘launch’ a rocket. The immersive digital films cost extra (from $13 per ticket). The Adler’s front steps offer Chicago’s best skyline view, so get your camera ready.
Shedd AquariumAQUARIUM
(map Google map; %312-939-2438; www.sheddaquarium.org; 1200 S Lake Shore Dr, Near South Side; adult/child $40/30; h9am-6pm Jun-Aug, 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat & Sun Sep-May; c; g146, 130)
Top draws at the kiddie-mobbed Shedd Aquarium include the Wild Reef exhibit, where there’s just 5in of Plexiglas between you and two-dozen fierce-looking sharks, and the Oceanarium, with its rescued sea otters. Note the Oceanarium also keeps beluga whales and Pacific white-sided dolphins, a practice that’s increasingly frowned upon as captivity is stressful for these sensitive creatures.
BLUES FANS’ PILGRIMAGE
From 1957 to 1967, Chess Records was the seminal electric blues label. The building it occupied is now known as Willie Dixon’s Blues Heaven (%312-808-1286; www.bluesheaven.com; 2120 S Michigan Ave, Near South Side; adult/child $15/10; hnoon-4pm Tue-Sat; mGreen Line to Cermak-McCormick Pl), for the bassist who wrote most of Chess’ hits. Staff give hour-long tours of the premises. It’s pretty ramshackle, with few original artifacts on display. Still, hard-core fans will get a thrill out of hearing stories from the heady era and walking into the studio where their musical heroes recorded. Free blues concerts rock the side garden on summer Thursdays at 6pm.
1Near North & Navy Pier
oNavy PierWATERFRONT
(map Google map; %312-595-7437; www.navypier.com; 600 E Grand Ave; h10am-10pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat Jun-Aug, 10am-8pm Sun-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat Sep-May; c; g65) F
Half-mile-long Navy Pier is one of Chicago’s most-visited attractions, sporting a 196ft Ferris wheel (adult/child $18/15) and other carnival rides ($9 to $18 each), an IMAX theater (map Google map; %312-595-5629; www.amctheatres.com; 700 E Grand Ave; tickets $15-22), a beer garden and lots of chain restaurants. A renovation added public plazas, performance spaces and free cultural programming. Locals still groan over its commercialization, but its lakefront view and cool breezes can’t be beat. The fireworks displays on summer Wednesdays (9:30pm) and Saturdays (10:15pm) are a treat too.
oDriehaus MuseumMUSEUM
(map Google map; %312-482-8933; www.driehausmuseum.org; 40 E Erie St, River North; adult/child $20/free; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun; mRed Line to Chicago)
Set in the exquisite Nickerson Mansion, the Driehaus immerses visitors in Gilded Age decorative arts and architecture. You’ll feel like a Great Gatsby character as you wander three floors stuffed with sumptuous objets d’art and heaps of Tiffany stained glass. Recommended guided tours ($5 extra) are available four times daily. The price seems steep, but the museum is a prize for those intrigued by opulent interiors.
Tribune TowerARCHITECTURE
(map Google map; 435 N Michigan Ave, Streeterville; mRed Line to Grand)
Take a close look when passing by this 1925 neo-Gothic edifice. Colonel Robert McCormick, eccentric owner of the Chicago Tribune in the early 1900s, collected – and asked his reporters to send – rocks from famous buildings and monuments around the world. He stockpiled pieces of the Taj Mahal, Westminster Abbey, the Great Pyramid and more than 140 others, which are now embedded around the tower’s base.
Marina CityARCHITECTURE
(map Google map; 300 N State St, River North; mBrown, Orange, Green, Purple, Pink Line to State/Lake)
The twin corncob towers of Marina City are an Instagram favorite for their futuristic, cartoony look. Bertrand Goldberg designed the 1964 high-rise, and it has become an iconic part of the Chicago skyline (check out the cover of the Wilco CD Yankee Hotel Foxtrot). And yes, there is a marina at the towers’ base.
Magnificent MileAREA
(map Google map; www.themagnificentmile.com; N Michigan Ave, Streeterville; mRed Line to Grand)
Spanning N Michigan Ave between the river and Oak St, the ‘Mag Mile’ is Chicago’s much-touted upscale shopping strip, where Bloomingdale’s, Apple, Burberry and many more will lighten your wallet. The retailers are mostly high-end chains that have stores nationwide.
DISCOUNT CARDS
The following options let you skip the regular queues at sights.
The Go Chicago Card (www.smartdestinations.com/chicago) allows you to visit an unlimited number of attractions for a flat fee. It’s good for one, two, three or five consecutive days. The company also offers a three-, four- or five-choice Explorer Pass where you pick among 29 options for sights. It’s valid for 30 days. Architecture cruises, the Navy Pier Ferris wheel and all major museums are among the choices.
CityPass (www.citypass.com/chicago) gives access to five of the city’s top draws, including the Art Institute, Shedd Aquarium and Willis Tower, over nine consecutive days. It’s less flexible than Go Chicago’s pass, but cheaper for those wanting a more leisurely pace.
1Gold Coast
o360° ChicagoOBSERVATORY
(map Google map; %888-875-8439; www.360chicago.com; 875 N Michigan Ave, 94th fl; adult/child $22/15; h9am-11pm, last tickets 10:30pm; mRed Line to Chicago)
The views from the 94th-floor observatory of this iconic building (formerly known as the John Hancock Center) in many ways surpass those at the Willis Tower; there are informative displays and the ‘Tilt’ feature (floor-to-ceiling windows you stand in as they tip out over the ground), which costs $7.20 extra and is less exciting than it sounds. Or just shoot straight up to the 96th-floor Signature Lounge (map Google map; www.signatureroom.com; h11am-12:30am Sun-Thu, to 1:30am Fri & Sat), where the view is free if you buy a drink ($10 to $18).
oMuseum of Contemporary ArtMUSEUM
(map Google map; MCA; %312-280-2660; www.mcachicago.org; 220 E Chicago Ave; adult/child $15/free; h10am-9pm Tue & Fri, to 5pm Wed, Thu, Sat & Sun; mRed Line to Chicago)
Consider it the Art Institute’s brash, rebellious sibling, with especially strong minimalist, surrealist and conceptual photography collections, and permanent works by René Magritte, Cindy Sherman and Andy Warhol. Covering art from the 1920s onward, the MCA’s collection spans the gamut, with displays arranged to blur the boundaries between painting, sculpture, video and other media. Exhibits change regularly so you never know what you’ll see, but count on it being offbeat and provocative. Illinois residents get free admission on Tuesday.
Newberry LibraryLIBRARY
(%312-943-9090; www.newberry.org; 60 W Walton St; hgalleries 8:15am-5pm Mon, Fri & Sat, to 7:30pm Tue-Thu; mRed Line to Chicago) F
The Newberry’s public galleries are a treat for bibliophiles: those who swoon over original Thomas Paine pamphlets about the French Revolution, or get weak-kneed seeing Thomas Jefferson’s copy of the History of the Expedition under Captains Lewis and Clark (with margin notes!). Intriguing exhibits rotate yellowed manuscripts and tattered 1st editions from the library’s extensive collection. The on-site bookstore is tops for Chicago-themed titles. Free tours of the impressive building take place at 3pm Thursday and 10:30am Saturday.
Chicago Sports MuseumMUSEUM
(map Google map; %312-202-0500; www.chicagosportsmuseum.com; 835 N Michigan Ave, 7th fl, Water Tower Place; adult/child $10/6; h11:30am-8:30pm Mon-Thu, to 9pm Fri, 11am-9pm Sat, 11am-6pm Sun; mRed Line to Chicago)
To understand Chicago’s sports psyche, peruse the memorabilia-filled cases at this gallery attached to Harry Caray’s 7th Inning Stretch restaurant. See the cleats Cubs infielder Kris Bryant wore on the winning final play of the 2016 World Series, which ended the team’s 108-year championship drought. Examine Sammy Sosa’s corked bat and the infamous ‘Bartman ball.’ The museum also enshrines relics for Da Bears, Bulls, Blackhawks and White Sox. (Admission is free if you eat or drink at the restaurant.)
1Lincoln Park & Old Town
oLincoln ParkPARK
(www.chicagoparkdistrict.com; Lincoln Park; h6am-11pm; c; g22, 151, 156)
The park that gave the neighborhood its name is Chicago’s largest. Its 1200 acres stretch for 6 miles from North Ave north to Diversey Pkwy, where it narrows along the lake and continues on until the end of Lake Shore Dr. On sunny days locals come out to play in droves, taking advantage of the ponds, paths and playing fields or visiting the zoo and beaches. It’s a fine spot to while away a morning or afternoon (or both).
Green City MarketMARKET
(%773-880-1266; www.greencitymarket.org; 1790 N Clark St, Lincoln Park; h7am-1pm Wed & Sat May-Oct; g22)
Stands of purple cabbages, red radishes, green asparagus and other bright-hued produce sprawl through Lincoln Park at Chicago’s biggest farmers market. Follow your nose to the demonstration tent, where local cooks such as Top Chef winner Stephanie Izard prepare dishes – say rice crepes with a mushroom gastrique (reduction) – using market ingredients.
Chicago History MuseumMUSEUM
(%312-642-4600; www.chicagohistory.org; 1601 N Clark St, Lincoln Park; adult/child $19/free; h9:30am-4:30pm Mon & Wed-Sat, to 9pm Tue, noon-5pm Sun; c; g22)
Curious about Chicago’s storied past? Multimedia displays at this museum cover it all, from the Great Fire to the 1968 Democratic Convention. President Lincoln’s deathbed is here, as is the bell worn by Mrs O’Leary’s cow. So is the chance to ‘become’ a Chicago hot dog covered in condiments (in the kids’ area, but adults are welcome for the photo op).
CHICAGO FOR GANGSTERS
Chicago would rather not discuss its gangster past; consequently there are no brochures or exhibits about infamous sites, so you’ll need to use your imagination when visiting the following places:
Green Mill Al Capone’s favorite speakeasy; the tunnels where he hid the booze are still underneath the bar.
Biograph Theater (2433 N Lincoln Ave, Lincoln Park; mBrown, Purple, Red Line to Fullerton) Where the ‘lady in red’ betrayed ‘public enemy number one’ John Dillinger.
Union Station (map Google map; %312-655-2385; www.chicagounionstation.com; 225 S Canal St; mBlue Line to Clinton) Fans of The Untouchables can see where the baby carriage bounced down the stairs.
St Valentine’s Day Massacre Site (2122 N Clark St, Lincoln Park; g22) Where Capone’s men, dressed as cops, killed seven members of Bugs Moran’s gang.
1Lake View & Wrigleyville
oWrigley FieldSTADIUM
(map; %800-843-2827; www.cubs.com; 1060 W Addison St, Wrigleyville; mRed Line to Addison)
Built in 1914 and named for the chewing-gum guy, Wrigley Field is the second-oldest baseball park in the major leagues. It’s known for its hand-turned scoreboard, ivy-covered outfield walls and neon sign over the front entrance. The Cubs are the home team. Games are always packed. Ticket prices vary, but in general you’ll be hard-pressed to get in for under $45. The area around the stadium is like a big street festival on game days.
The ballpark is filled with legendary traditions and curses, including a team that didn’t win a championship for 108 years. But a 2016 World Series victory coupled with heaps of new family-friendly and foodie hot spots around the stadium have given it new life. The grassy plaza just north of the main entrance – aka Gallagher Way (www.gallagherway.com; 3637 N Clark St) – hosts free events including concerts, alfresco fitness classes and movie nights on the jumbo video screen.
Ninety-minute Wrigley Field tours (per person $25) are available April through September.
1Wicker Park, Bucktown & Ukrainian Village
Intuit: The Center for Intuitive & Outsider ArtGALLERY
(map Google map; %312-243-9088; www.art.org; 756 N Milwaukee Ave, River West; $5; h11am-6pm Tue, Wed, Fri & Sat, to 7pm Thu, noon-5pm Sun; mBlue Line to Chicago)
Behold this small museum’s collection of naive and outsider art from Chicago artists, including rotating mixed-media exhibits and watercolors by famed local Henry Darger. In a back room the museum has re-created Darger’s awesomely cluttered studio apartment, complete with balls of twine, teetering stacks of old magazines, an ancient typewriter and a Victrola phonograph. The gift shop carries groovy jewelry (such as pencil-eraser necklaces), bags and wallets made from recycled material, and art books.
1Logan Square & Humboldt Park
oGalerie FGALLERY
(%872-817-7067; www.galeriefchicago.com; 2415 N Milwaukee Ave, Logan Square; h11am-6pm Mon & Thu-Sun; mBlue Line to California)
Galerie F is exactly the type of laid-back, ubercool gallery you’d expect to find in Logan Square. It specializes in rock-and-roll gig posters, printmaking and street art. Walk into the bright, open space and browse – the vibe here is totally welcoming. Dip into the basement to listen to records, play chess or just linger in the sitting area.
oBusy Beaver Button MuseumMUSEUM
(%773-645-3359; www.buttonmuseum.org; 3407 W Armitage Ave, Logan Square; h10am-4pm Mon-Fri; g73) F
Even George Washington gave out campaign buttons, though in his era they were the sew-on kind. Pin-back buttons came along in 1896. Badge-making company Busy Beaver chronicles its history in displays holding thousands of the little round mementos. They tout everything from Dale Bozzio to Bozo the clown, Cabbage Patch Kids to Big Rock Point Nuclear Plant.
1Hyde Park & South Side
oMuseum of Science & IndustryMUSEUM
(map; MSI; %773-684-1414; www.msichicago.org; 5700 S Lake Shore Dr, Hyde Park; adult/child $22/13; h9:30am-5:30pm Jun-Aug, shorter hours Sep-May; c; g6 or 10, mMetra Electric Line to 55th-56th-57th St)
Geek out at the largest science museum in the Western Hemisphere. Highlights include a WWII German U-boat nestled in an underground display (adult/child $18/14 extra to tour it) and the Science Storms exhibit with a mock tornado and tsunami. Other popular exhibits include the baby chick hatchery, the minuscule furnishings in Colleen Moore’s fairy castle and the life-size shaft of a coal mine (adult/child $12/9 extra to descend and tour its workings).
The museum’s main building served as the Palace of Fine Arts at the landmark 1893 World’s Expo, which was set in the surrounding Jackson Park (6401 S Stony Island Ave, Woodlawn; g6, mMetra Electric Line to 59th or 63rd St). When you’ve had your fill of the sensory-overload sights inside, the park makes an excellent setting to recuperate.
oRobie HouseARCHITECTURE
(%312-994-4000; www.flwright.org; 5757 S Woodlawn Ave, Hyde Park; adult/child $18/15; h10:30am-3pm Thu-Mon; g6, mMetra Electric Line to 59th St)
Of the numerous buildings that Frank Lloyd Wright designed around Chicago, none is more famous or influential than Robie House. Because its horizontal lines resembled the flat landscape of the Midwestern prairie, the style became known as the Prairie style. Inside are 174 stained-glass windows and doors, which you’ll see on the hour-long tours (frequency varies by season, but there’s usually at least one tour per hour). Advance tickets are highly recommended.
DuSable Museum of African American HistoryMUSEUM
(%773-947-0600; www.dusablemuseum.org; 740 E 56th Pl, Washington Park; adult/child $10/3, Tue free; h10am-5pm Tue-Sat, noon-5pm Sun; g6, mMetra Electric Line to 55th-56th-57th St)
This was the first independent museum in the country dedicated to African American art, history and culture. The collection features African American artworks and photography, permanent exhibits that illustrate African Americans’ experiences from slavery through the Civil Rights movement, and rotating exhibits that cover topics such as Chicago blues music or the Black Panther movement. It’s affiliated with the Smithsonian Institution.
Obama’s HouseHOUSE
(5046 S Greenwood Ave, Kenwood; g6, mMetra Electric Line to 51st-53rd St)
Among the handsome manors lining S Greenwood Ave is the redbrick Georgian-style home at number 5046, where Barack Obama and his family lived from 2005 until he became president in 2008. The Obamas still own the house, though they chose to stay in Washington, DC, after his time in office. You can’t go inside, and fences block the sidewalk, but you can get close enough for a photo.
2City Walk
The Loop
START CHICAGO BOARD OF TRADE
FINISH BILLY GOAT TAVERN
LENGTH 3 MILES; ABOUT TWO HOURS
This tour winds through the Loop and across the Chicago River, passing some of the city’s finest old buildings and notable public art.
Start at the 1Chicago Board of Trade (map Google map; 141 W Jackson Blvd), a 1930 art-deco temple of commerce. The nearby 2Rookery (map Google map; www.flwright.org; 209 S LaSalle St) was built in 1888 by Daniel Burnham – a monumental brick building maximizing light and air with a central atrium. Frank Lloyd Wright redesigned the lobby 19 years later.
Head east on Adams to the 3Art Institute, one of the world’s finest art museums. The lion statues out front make a classic keepsake photo. Just north is 4Millennium Park, filled with avant-garde works from world-famous names such as Frank Gehry and Anish Kapoor.
Two blocks west on Washington is the 1895 5Reliance Building (map Google map). Another Burnham design, it’s a posh hotel today (it originally housed medical offices – Al Capone’s dentist practiced in room 809).
Another block west is Pablo Picasso’s 6untitled sculpture (50 W Washington St). He never revealed what it portrayed – popular guesses include a woman, a dog or a baboon – so interpret it however you like. Just northwest is another inscrutable sculpture, Jean Dubuffet’s 7Monument with Standing Beast (map Google map; 100 W Randolph St).
Walk east on Randolph to beaux-arts beauty the 8Chicago Cultural Center. Further famous edifices are north of the Chicago River: the gleaming-white terra-cotta 9Wrigley Building (map Google map; 400 N Michigan Ave) and the neo-Gothic, eye-popping aTribune Tower.
Finish up at the bBilly Goat Tavern, a classic dive bar whose owner invoked the Cubs’ famous curse in 1945 after being ejected from Wrigley Field because of his pet goat. Raise a glass to the Cubs, who broke it – and their 108-year-long World Series drought – in 2016.
2Activities
Chicago offers plenty of places to get active via its city-spanning shoreline, 26 beaches and 580 parks. After a long, cold winter, everyone dashes outside to play. Top marks go to the 18-mile Lakefront Trail, prime for cycling and running. Meanwhile, Lake Michigan and the Chicago River provide loads of paddling possibilities.
On The Land
The flat, 18-mile Lakefront Trail is a beautiful ride along the water, though on nice days it’s jam-packed. It starts at Ardmore Ave and rolls all the way south to 71st St. The path is split so cyclists and runners have separate lanes; look for signposts and markers painted on the ground to tell you what’s what. The trail is most congested between Lincoln Park and the Museum Campus; it’s least congested heading south from the museums. The Active Transportation Alliance (www.activetrans.org) publishes a bike trail map. Check @activetransLFT on Twitter for updates on trail conditions; some parts close in bad weather.
oBobby’s Bike HikeCYCLING
(map Google map; %312-245-9300; www.bobbysbikehike.com; 540 N Lake Shore Dr, Streeterville; per hr/day from $8/27, tours $38-70; h8:30am-8pm Mon-Fri, 8am-8pm Sat & Sun Jun-Aug, 9am-7pm Mar-May & Sep-Nov; mRed Line to Grand)
Locally based Bobby’s earns rave reviews from riders. It rents bikes and has easy access to the Lakefront Trail. It also offers cool tours of gangster sites, the lakefront, nighttime vistas, and venues to indulge in pizza and beer. The Tike Hike caters to kids. Enter through the covered driveway to reach the shop. Call for winter hours.
Bike & RollCYCLING
(map Google map; %312-729-1000; www.bikechicago.com; 239 E Randolph St; tours adult/child from $45/35; h9am-7pm; mBrown, Orange, Green, Purple, Pink Line to Washington/Wabash)
Summer guided tours (adult/child from $45/35) cover themes such as lakefront parks, breweries and historic neighborhoods, or downtown’s sights and fireworks at night (highly recommended). Prices include lock, helmet and map. Operates out of the McDonald’s Cycle Center in Millennium Park; there’s another branch on Navy Pier. It also rents out bikes for DIY explorations (per hour/day from $12.50/35).
McCormick Tribune Ice RinkICE SKATING
(map Google map; www.millenniumpark.org; 55 N Michigan Ave; hnoon-8pm Mon-Thu, to 10pm Fri, 10am-9pm Sat & Sun mid-Nov–mid-Mar; mBrown, Orange, Green, Purple, Pink Line to Washington/Wabash)
Millennium Park’s busy rink is the city’s most scenic, tucked between the reflecting Bean sculpture and the twinkling lights of Michigan Ave. Admission to the ice is free; skate rental costs $13 (Monday through Thursday) or $15 (Friday through Sunday). Free ice-skating lessons are offered an hour before the rink opens.
DON’T MISS
THE 606
Like NYC’s High Line, Chicago’s 606 (www.the606.org; Wicker Park/Bucktown; h6am-11pm; mBlue Line to Damen) is a similar urban-cool elevated path along an old train track. Bike or stroll past factories, smokestacks, clattering L trains and locals’ backyard affairs for 2.7 miles between Wicker Park and Logan Square. It’s a fascinating trek through Chicago’s socioeconomic strata: moneyed at the east, becoming more industrial and immigrant to the west.
On The Water
Visitors often don’t realize Chicago is a beach town, thanks to mammoth Lake Michigan lapping its side. There are 26 official strands of sand patrolled by lifeguards in summer. Swimming is popular, though the water is pretty freaking cold. Beaches at Montrose and North Ave have rental places offering kayaks and stand-up paddleboards. Other kayak companies have set up shop along the Chicago River.
oMontrose BeachBEACH
(www.cpdbeaches.com; 4400 N Lake Shore Dr, Uptown; g146)
One of the city’s best beaches. You can rent kayaks, stand-up paddleboards and Jet Skis; sometimes you’ll see surfers and kitesurfers, and anglers frequently cast here. Watch sailboats glide in the harbor over some waterside snacks or a drink at the Dock Bar and Grill. A wide, dog-friendly beach with a curving breakwater abuts the main beach to the north.
North Avenue BeachBEACH
(www.cpdbeaches.com; 1600 N Lake Shore Dr, Lincoln Park; h6am-11pm; c; g151)
Chicago’s most popular strand of sand gives off a bit of a Southern California vibe in summer. Buff teams spike volleyballs, kids build sandcastles and everyone jumps in for a swim when the weather heats up. Bands and DJs rock the steamboat-shaped beach house, which serves ice cream and margaritas in equal measure. Kayaks, Jet Skis, stand-up paddleboards, bicycles and lounge chairs are available to rent, and there are daily beach yoga classes.
Urban KayaksKAYAKING
(map Google map; %312-965-0035; www.urbankayaks.com; 435 E Riverwalk S; rental per hour per person $30, tours $55; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 7pm Sat & Sun May-early Oct; mBrown, Orange, Green, Purple, Pink Line to State/Lake)
On the Riverwalk (map Google map; www.chicagoriverwalk.us; Chicago River waterfront, btwn N Lake Shore Dr & W Lake St; h6am-11pm), this outfitter rents out kayaks for DIY explorations and offers guided tours that glide past downtown’s skyscrapers and historic sites; beginners are welcome, with a 20-minute training session starting off each tour. For extra help, try the hour-long ‘intro to paddling’ class ($35). Nighttime tours on Wednesdays and Saturdays take in the Navy Pier summer fireworks show.
CHICAGO FOR CHILDREN
Ferocious dinosaurs, an ark’s worth of beasts, lakefront boat rides and sandy beaches are among the top choices for toddlin’ times. Add in magical playgrounds, family cycling tours and lots of pizza, and it’s clear Chicago is a kid’s kind of town.
Chicago Children’s Museum (map Google map; %312-527-1000; www.chicagochildrensmuseum.org; 700 E Grand Ave, Navy Pier; $15; h10am-5pm, to 8pm Thu; c; g65) is the reigning favorite, geared to kids aged 10 and under, with a slew of hands-on building, climbing and inventing exhibits. Bonus: it’s located on Navy Pier.
Bring on the dinosaurs at Field Museum of Natural History. The Crown Family PlayLab, on the ground floor, lets kids excavate bones and make loads of other discoveries. It’s open Thursday to Monday from 10am to 3:30pm.
Families could spend a week the Museum of Science & Industry and not see it all. Staff conduct ‘experiments’ in various galleries throughout the day, such as dropping things off the balcony and creating mini explosions. The Idea Factory lets scientists aged 10 and under ‘research’ properties of light, balance and water pressure.
The Peggy Notebaert Nature Museum (%773-755-5100; www.naturemuseum.org; 2430 N Cannon Dr, Lincoln Park; adult/child $9/6; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, from 10am Sat & Sun; c; g76, 151) is somewhat overlooked, but its butterfly haven and marsh full of frogs provide gentle thrills. Bonus: it’s located in Lincoln Park by the zoo.
At the Art Institute of Chicago, the Ryan Learning Center provides interactive games (such as puzzles of famous works) and art-making activities.
TTours
oChicago Architecture Center ToursBOAT TOURS
(CAC; %312-922-3432; www.architecture.org; 111 E Wacker Dr; tours $20-55)
Gold-standard boat tours ($47) sail from the river dock (map; mBrown, Orange, Green, Purple, Pink Line to State/Lake) on the southeast side of the Michigan Ave Bridge. Also popular are the Historic Skyscrapers walking tours ($26) and tours exploring individual landmark buildings ($20). CAC sponsors bus, bike and L train tours, too. Buy tickets online or at the CAC’s front desk; boat tickets can also be purchased at the dock.
Chicago by FootWALKING
(%312-612-0826; www.freetoursbyfoot.com/chicago-tours)
Guides for this pay-what-you-want walking tour offer engaging stories and historical details on different jaunts covering Loop architecture, West Loop history, Lincoln Park’s gangster sites and much more. It’s recommended to pay about $20 per person. Reserve in advance to guarantee a spot; walk-up guests are welcome if space is available (chancy). Tours usually last around two hours.
Chicago DetoursWALKING
(%312-350-1131; www.chicagodetours.com; tours from $28)
Chicago Detours offers engrossing, detail-rich tours (mostly walking, but also some by bus) that take in Chicago’s architecture, history and culture. The 2½-hour Historic Bar Tour is a popular one.
Chicago Beer ExperienceWALKING
(%312-818-2172; www.chicagobeerexperience.com; 3hr tours $67)
These walking tours visit a neighborhood in order to discover its beer history along with general Chicago history. Expect to hit four bars over the course of a mile or so. Beer and a snack (such as a stuffed pizza slice or hot dog) are included. Departure points vary.
zFestivals & Events
St Patrick’s Day ParadeCULTURAL
(www.chicagostpatricksdayparade.org; hmid-Mar)
The local plumbers union dyes the Chicago River shamrock-green; a big parade follows downtown in Grant Park. Held the Saturday before March 17.
Chicago Blues FestivalMUSIC
(www.chicagobluesfestival.us; hJun)
The biggest free blues fest in the world, with three days of the music that made Chicago famous. Held in Millennium Park.
oTaste of ChicagoFOOD & DRINK
(www.tasteofchicago.us; hJul)
This five-day food festival in Grant Park draws hordes for a smorgasbord of ethnic, meaty, sweet and local edibles – much of it served on a stick. Several stages host free live music, including big-name bands.
Pride ParadeLGBTIQ+
(http://chicagopride.gopride.com; Boystown; hlate Jun; mRed Line to Addison)
On the last Sunday in June, colorful floats and risqué revelers pack Halsted St in Boystown. It’s the LGBTIQ+ community’s main event, and more than 800,000 people come to the party.
Pitchfork Music FestivalMUSIC
(http://pitchforkmusicfestival.com; Union Park, Near West Side; day pass $75; hmid-Jul; mGreen, Pink Line to Ashland)
Taste-making alternative and emerging bands strum for three days in Union Park in mid-July.
LollapaloozaMUSIC
(www.lollapalooza.com; hAug)
Up to 170 bands spill off eight stages at Grant Park’s four-day mega-gig.
Jazz FestivalMUSIC
(www.chicagojazzfestival.us; hAug/Sep)
Top names on the national jazz scene play for free over Labor Day weekend. Performances are held in Millennium Park and the Chicago Cultural Center.
Open House ChicagoCULTURAL
(%312-922-3432; www.openhousechicago.org; hOct) F
Design geeks, take note: for one weekend in mid-October the Chicago Architecture Center coordinates free tours of more than 200 architectural gems around the city, many of them normally off-limits to the public.
Chicago MarathonSPORTS
(www.chicagomarathon.com; hOct)
More than 45,000 runners compete on the 26-mile course through the city’s heart, cheered on by a million spectators. Held on a Sunday in October (when the weather can be pleasant or freezing), it’s considered one of the world’s top five marathons.
4Sleeping
Chicago’s lodgings rise high in the sky, many in architectural landmarks. Snooze in the building that gave birth to the skyscraper, in one of Mies van der Rohe’s boxy structures, or in a century-old art deco masterpiece. Huge business hotels, trendy boutique hotels and snazzy hostels blanket the cityscape too. But nothing comes cheap…
4The Loop
HI-ChicagoHOSTEL$
(map Google map; %312-360-0300; www.hichicago.org; 24 E Congress Pkwy; dm $35-55; 
a
i
W; mBrown, Orange, Purple, Pink Line to Library)
Chicago’s most stalwart hostel is immaculate, conveniently placed in the Loop, and offers bonuses such as a staffed information desk, free volunteer-led tours and discount passes to some sights. The simple dorm rooms have eight or 10 beds, and most have attached baths; others share hallway bathrooms. Dorms are segregated by gender.
oHampton Inn Chicago Downtown/N LoopHOTEL$$
(map Google map; %312-419-9014; www.hamptonchicago.com; 68 E Wacker Pl; r $200-290; 
paW; mBrown, Orange, Green, Purple, Pink Line to State/Lake)
This unique property with a central location makes you feel like a road-tripper of yore. Set in the 1928 art deco Chicago Motor Club Building, the lobby sports a vintage Ford and a cool USA mural map from the era. The dark-wood-paneled rooms strike the right balance of retro vibe and modern amenities. Free wi-fi.
oVirgin HotelHOTEL$$
(map Google map; %312-940-4400; www.virginhotels.com; 203 N Wabash Ave; r $240-380; paiW
#; mBrown, Orange, Green, Purple, Pink Line to State/Lake)
Billionaire Richard Branson transformed the 27-story, art deco Dearborn Bank Building into the first outpost of his cheeky new hotel chain. The airy, suite-like rooms have speedy free wi-fi, low-cost minibar items and a bed that doubles as a work desk. An app controls electronics including thermostat and TV. Guests receive earplugs, handy for dulling noise from nearby L trains.
oHotel JulianHOTEL$$
(map Google map; %312-346-1200; www.hoteljulianchicago.com; 168 N Michigan Ave; r $200-400; p
naW; mBrown, Orange, Green, Purple, Pink Line to Washington/Wabash)
Twelve stories in a 1912 office building now comprise one of the Loop’s newest mod-luxe hotels. Large rooms are elegantly decorated with a slightly masculine retro-1930s vibe and feature king-sized captain’s beds with Frette linens and leather headboards, espresso makers and 55in TVs – not to mention stunning views of Millennium Park through some of the city-view rooms.
Buckingham Athletic Club HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
(map Google map; %312-663-8910; www.thebuckinghamclub.com; 440 S LaSalle St; r $200-280; paW
s; mBrown, Orange, Purple, Pink Line to LaSalle)
On the 40th floor of the Chicago Stock Exchange building, this 21-room hotel isn’t easy to find. The benefit if you do? It’s quiet (on weekends and evenings especially) and has expansive views. Elegant rooms are so spacious they’d be considered suites elsewhere. Lots of freebies add to the excellence, including access to the namesake gym with lap pool.
SilversmithHISTORIC HOTEL$$
(map Google map; %312-372-7696; www.silversmithchicagohotel.com; 10 S Wabash Ave; r $200-350; paiW; mRed, Blue Line to Monroe)
Designed by renowned architect Daniel Burnham’s firm as a place for jewelers and silversmiths to ply their trade, this 1897 building’s gem-inspired theme carries over to the current, vintage-cool design. Rooms are good-sized, with pearl-colored decor and ruby and gold accents. A cushioned seat nestles in each floor-to-ceiling window, prime for city-watching.
4Near North & Navy Pier
oFound Hotel ChicagoHOSTEL, HOTEL$
(map Google map; %224-243-6863; www.foundhotels.com; 613 N Wells St, River North; dm $25-55, r $120-330; paW; mBrown, Purple Line to Merchandise Mart)
Breezy Found Hotel joins the elevated hostel/casual-hotel brigade. The 60 rooms come in several configurations, including four-bed dorms with sturdy (and quite comfy) bunk beds, and private rooms with twin or queen beds – all with en-suite bathrooms. Rooms are small and plain, but who cares? The price is often right, and the common areas are where the fun is.
Freehand ChicagoHOSTEL, HOTEL$
(map Google map; %312-940-3699; www.freehandhotels.com/chicago; 19 E Ohio St, River North; dm $35-55, r $220-310; aW; mRed Line to Grand) 
S
At this super-hip hostel-hotel hybrid, travelers split evenly between the four-person, bunk-bed dorms and private rooms. All feature warm woods, bright tiles and Central American–tinged fabrics. Everyone mingles in the totem-pole-filled common area and groovy Broken Shaker bar. The Freehand works best as a hostel, its dorms spiffier than most, with en-suite bathrooms and privacy curtains around each bed.
oAcme HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
(map Google map; %312-894-0800; www.acmehotelcompany.com; 15 E Ohio St, River North; r $170-310; paiW; mRed Line to Grand)
Urban bohemians love the Acme for its indie-cool style at (usually) affordable rates. The 130 rooms mix industrial fixtures with retro lamps, mid-century furniture and funky modern art. They’re wired up with free wi-fi, good speakers, smart TVs and easy connections to stream your own music and movies. Graffiti, neon and a rock-and-roll elevator embellish the common areas.
Moxy Chicago DowntownHOTEL$$
(map Google map; %312-527-7200; http://moxy-hotels.marriott.com; 530 N LaSalle Dr, River North; r $224-299; paW#; mRed Line to Grand)
When a hotel’s front desk doubles as a bar, you know you’re in for a good time. So it goes at Moxy, where the lobby is a communal area with a 24-hour taco joint and novelty-size Jenga and Connect Four games. The wee rooms feel bigger than they are thanks to floor-to-ceiling windows and a pegboard wall to hang items.
4Gold Coast
oFieldhouse JonesHOSTEL, HOTEL$
(map Google map; %312-291-9922; www.fieldhousejones.com; 312 W Chestnut St; r/apt from $125/180; paW; mBrown, Purple Line to Chicago)
This hip hotel occupies a vintage, redbrick dairy warehouse. It’s great value for the Gold Coast, drawing a wide range of travelers – global backpackers, families – for its quality rooms and sociable common areas. There are standard hotel rooms, studios and one- and two-bedroom apartments, all with en-suite bathrooms, wi-fi and fun, sporty decor (dartboard wall art, old trophies etc).
Drake HotelHISTORIC HOTEL$$
(%312-787-2200; www.thedrakehotel.com; 140 E Walton St; r $230-360; paiW; mRed Line to Chicago)
Queen Elizabeth, Princess Di, the Reagans, the Bushes, the Clintons, the late, great Aretha Franklin… Who hasn’t stayed at the Drake since its 1920 opening? The elegant, chandelier-strewn grande dame anchors the northern end of Michigan Ave, near Oak Street Beach. While the public spaces are gilded eye-poppers, the 535 rooms are more everyday yet well-sized and comfy.
oViceroy ChicagoLUXURY HOTEL$$$
(%312-586-2000; www.viceroyhotelsandresorts.com; 1118 N State St; d $275-450, ste from $550; pnaWs; mRed Line to Clark/Division)
The Gold Coast’s newest luxury hotel, the Viceroy has 198 rooms and suites with art deco–inspired design elements with warm woods, gold accents and luxe furnishings. Blue-velvet curtains float across floor-to-ceiling windows with lake and skyline views; the restaurant, helmed by a Michelin-starred chef, features nautical yacht-club motifs. In summer you can use the rooftop dipping pool. Free wi-fi.
oWaldorf Astoria ChicagoLUXURY HOTEL$$$
(%312-646-1300; www.waldorfastoriachicagohotel.com; 11 E Walton St; r from $400; paiWs#; mRed Line to Chicago)
The Waldorf routinely tops the list for Chicago’s best uber-luxury hotel. It models itself on 1920s Parisian glamour and, we have to admit, it delivers it in spades. Rooms are large – they have to be, to hold the fireplaces, the bars, the marble soaking tubs, the beds with 460-thread-count sheets and the fully wired work spaces and other techno gadgets.
4Lincoln Park & Old Town
Hotel LincolnBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
(%312-254-4700; www.jdvhotels.com; 1816 N Clark St, Lincoln Park; r $150-399; paiW; g22)
The boutique Lincoln is all about kitschy fun, as the lobby’s ‘wall of bad art’ and front desk patched together from flea-market dresser drawers attest. Standard rooms are small, but vintage-cool and colorful; many have sweet views. Leafy Lincoln Park and the city’s largest farmers market sprawl across the street. The hotel’s rooftop bar (%312-254-4747; www.jparkerchicago.com; h5pm-1am Mon-Thu, from 3pm Fri, from 11:30am Sat & Sun) offers spectacular lake views.
4Lake View & Wrigleyville
oMajestic HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
(%773-404-3499; www.majestic-chicago.com; 528 W Brompton Ave, Lake View; r $159-275; paW; g151)
Nestled into a row of residential housing, the Majestic is walking distance to Wrigley Field and Boystown and mere steps from the lakefront. From the lobby fireplace and dark-wood furnishings to the handsome, paisley-swirled decor, the interior has the cozy feel of an English manor. Free wi-fi and continental breakfast are included.
oWheelhouse HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
(%773-248-9001; www.wheelhousehotel.com; 3475 N Clark St, Wrigleyville; r $250-350; paW; mRed Line to Addison)
A 2018 newbie, the Wheelhouse features 21 rooms in a restored greystone building not far from Wrigley Field. The smallish rooms have an earthy, urban loft feel, with exposed brick walls, cool vintage decor and bold shades of peach, yellow and blue; some even have bunk beds. The playful, baseball-tinged vibe extends to the lobby’s wood-bat ceiling and scoreboard wall.
Hotel ZacharyHOTEL$$
(%773-302-2300; www.hotelzachary.com; 3630 N Clark St, Wrigleyville; r $250-425; paW#; mRed Line to Addison)
Gleaming Hotel Zachary – named after Zachary Taylor Davis, the architect of Wrigley Field – opened in 2018 right across the street from the celebrated ballpark. Nods to baseball are subtle in the 173 stylish, natural-light-filled rooms: ivy-green headboards, baseball-glove-colored leather chairs, gray pinstripe carpet. On game days it’s a high-energy scene, and it can be noisy into the wee hours.
4Wicker Park, Bucktown & Ukrainian Village
Holiday JonesHOSTEL$
(%312-804-3335; www.holidayjones.com; 1659 W Division St, East Village; dm/r from $28/76; naiW; mBlue Line to Division)
Holiday Jones has an irreverent personality, with old steamer trunks turned stereo speakers comprising the front desk and cartoony posters lining the stairwell. Rooms are compact but tidy, with splashes of comforting plaid. Gender-segregated dorms have four to six bunk beds; private rooms are available too. The large common room has couches and a flat-screen TV, plus free wi-fi and lockers.
Urban Holiday LoftsHOSTEL$
(%312-532-6949; www.urbanholidaylofts.com; 2014 W Wabansia Ave, Wicker Park; dm $25-40, r $79-115; aiW; mBlue Line to Damen)
An international crowd fills the gender-segregated dorms (with four to eight beds) and private rooms of these converted loft condos; some rooms have private bathrooms. Exposed-brick walls, hardwood floors and bunks with plump bedding feature in all 21 rooms. It’s close to the L station and in the thick of Wicker Park’s nightlife. Continental breakfast is included. No elevator.
Wicker Park InnB&B$
(%773-486-2743; www.wickerparkinn.com; 1331 N Wicker Park Ave, Wicker Park; r $180-200, apt $200-250; aW; mBlue Line to Damen)
This classic brick row house is steps away from great restaurants and nightlife. The sunny rooms aren’t huge, but all have hardwood floors, small desk spaces and soothing color schemes with bright splashes of floral wallpaper. Breakfast is rich in baked goods and fruit. Across the street, three apartments with kitchens provide a self-contained experience.
4Logan Square & Humboldt Park
Longman & EagleINN$
(%773-276-7110; www.longmanandeagle.com; 2657 N Kedzie Ave, Logan Square; r $95-250; aW; mBlue Line to Logan Square)
Check in at the tavern downstairs and then head to your wood-floored, vintage-stylish accommodations on the floor above. The six rooms aren’t particularly soundproof, but after using your whiskey tokens in the bar, you probably won’t care.
4West Loop & Near West Side
oAce HotelHOTEL$$
(map Google map; %312-548-1177; www.acehotel.com/chicago; 311 N Morgan St, West Loop; r $250-400; paW; mGreen, Pink Line to Morgan)
Chicago’s branch of the super-hip Ace chain rises up across the street from Google’s shiny office. Hints of Frank Lloyd Wright, Ludwig Mies van der Rohe and other famed local architects show up in the mod, earthy design. The 159 minimalist rooms are on the small side but have cool decor, including a turntable or Martin guitar in most.
Publishing House Bed & BreakfastB&B$$
(map Google map; %312-554-5857; https://publishinghousebnb.com; 108 N May St, West Loop; r $179-379; mGreen, Pink Line to Morgan)
The building was indeed a publishing house more than a century ago, and it’s now transformed so it looks like the stylish home of your coolest city friend. The 11 warm-toned rooms, each named for a Chicago writer, have hardwood floors, mid-century modern decor and original art on the walls. A fireplace and reading nooks fill the cozy common areas.
4Hyde Park & South Side
Sophy Hyde ParkBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
(%773-289-1003; www.sophyhotel.com; 1411 E 53rd St, Hyde Park; r $229-329; paW; g6, mMetra Electric Line to 51st-53rd St)
Hyde Park got its first boutique hotel in 2018, and it’s a design winner. The 98 rooms have an artsy-hip look that feels truly fresh. Each is a good size, with hardwood floors, a record player and albums by local blues and rock musicians, plus an 8ft, bright-hued, abstract painting (by a local artist) that anchors the space. Free wi-fi, to boot.
5Eating
Chicago has become a chowhound’s hot spot. For the most part, restaurants here are reasonably priced and pretension-free, serving masterful food in come-as-you-are environs. You can also fork into a superb range of international eats, especially if you break out of downtown and head for neighborhoods such as Pilsen or Uptown.
5The Loop
oRevival Food HallAMERICAN$
(map Google map; %773-999-9411; www.revivalfoodhall.com; 125 S Clark St; mains $7-12; h7am-7pm Mon-Fri; W; mBlue Line to Monroe)
The Loop needed a forward-thinking food court, and Revival Food Hall delivered. Come lunchtime, hip office workers pack the blond-wood tables of this ground-floor modern marketplace in the historic National building. The all-local dining concept brings 15 of Chicago’s best fast-casual food outlets to the masses, from Antique Taco and Smoque BBQ to Furious Spoon ramen and HotChocolate Bakery.
Mercat a la PlanxaSPANISH$$$
(map Google map; %312-765-0524; www.mercatchicago.com; 638 S Michigan Ave; tapas $10-18, tasting menus from $65; hdinner 5-10pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat, brunch 7am-3pm Sat & Sun; mRed Line to Harrison)
This Barcelona-style tapas and seafood restaurant buzzes in an enormous, convivial room where light streams in through the floor-to-ceiling windows. It cooks all the specialties of Catalonia and stokes a festive atmosphere, enhanced by copious quantities of cava (sparkling wine) and sangria. It’s located in the beaux-arts Blackstone Hotel.
5Pilsen & Near South Side
oDon Pedro CarnitasMEXICAN$
(1113 W 18th St, Pilsen; tacos $2.50; h6am-6pm Mon-Thu, 5am-5pm Fri-Sun; mPink Line to 18th St)
At this no-frills meat den, a man with a machete salutes you at the front counter. He awaits your command to hack off pork pieces and then wraps the thick chunks with onion and cilantro in a warm tortilla. You then devour the tacos at the tables in back. Goat stew and tripe add to the carnivorous menu. Cash only.
Qing Xiang Yuan DumplingsDUMPLINGS$
(%312-799-1118; www.qxydumplings.com; 2002 S Wentworth Ave, Suite 103, Chinatown; mains $9-14; h11:30am-9pm; mRed Line to Cermak-Chinatown)
The name doesn’t lie: it’s all about dumplings in this bright room under bamboo lanterns. The dough pockets come steamed or pan-fried, in serves of 12 or 18, with fillings such as lamb and coriander, ground pork and cabbage, sea whelk and leek, and some 30 other types. Bite into one and a hot shot of flavor erupts in your mouth.
Pleasant House PubPUB FOOD$
(%773-523-7437; www.pleasanthousepub.com; 2119 S Halsted St, Pilsen; mains $10.50-15; h10am-10pm Tue-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat, to 10pm Sun; W; g8)
Follow your nose to Pleasant House, which bakes tall, fluffy, savory pies. Daily flavors include chicken and chutney, steak and ale, or kale and mushroom, made with produce the chefs grow themselves. The pub also serves excellent UK and local beers to accompany the food. Friday is a good day to visit, when there’s a fish fry.
5Near North & Navy Pier
oBilly Goat TavernBURGERS$
(map Google map; %312-222-1525; www.billygoattavern.com; 430 N Michigan Ave, lower level, Streeterville; burgers $4-8; h6am-1am Mon-Thu, to 2am Fri, to 3am Sat, 9am-2am Sun; mRed Line to Grand)
Tribune and Sun Times reporters have guzzled in the subterranean Billy Goat for decades. Order a ‘cheezborger’ and Schlitz beer, then look around at the newspapered walls to get the scoop on infamous local stories, such as the Cubs’ Curse. This is a tourist magnet, but a deserving one. Follow the tavern signs leading below Michigan Ave to get here.
GT Fish & OysterSEAFOOD$$
(map Google map; %312-929-3501; www.gtoyster.com; 531 N Wells St, River North; mains $17-30; h5-10pm Mon-Thu, to 11pm Fri, 10am-2:30pm & 5-11pm Sat, 10am-2:30pm & 5-10pm Sun; mRed Line to Grand)
Seafood restaurants can be fusty. Not so GT Fish & Oyster. The clean-lined room bustles with date-night couples and groups of friends drinking fizzy wines and slurping mollusks. Many of the dishes are shareable, which adds to the convivial, plate-clattering ambience. The sublime clam chowder arrives in a glass jar with housemade oyster crackers and bacon.
5Gold Coast
Velvet TacoTACOS$
(%312-763-2654; www.velvettaco.com; 1110 N State St; tacos $3.50-7; h11am-midnight Mon, to 2am Tue & Wed, to 3am Thu, to 5am Fri, 10am-5am Sat, 10am-midnight Sun; 
v; g36, mRed Line to Clark/Division)
An excellent late-night option for this area, Velvet Taco features hip new takes on the eminently adaptable taco: spicy chicken tikka; Nashville hot tofu with Napa slaw; shredded pork with avocado crema and grilled pineapple; Kobe bacon-burger with smoked cheddar; even shrimp and grits. Down a few accompanied by a margarita or a beer.
oLe ColonialFRENCH, VIETNAMESE$$$
(%312-255-0088; www.lecolonialchicago.com; 937 N Rush St; mains $20-34; h11:30am-3pm & 5-10pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat; v; mRed Line to Chicago)
Step into the dark-wood, candlelit room, where ceiling fans swirl lazily and big-leafed palms sway in the breeze, and you’d swear you were in 1920s Saigon. Staff can arrange vegetarian and gluten-free substitutions among the curries and banana-leaf-wrapped fish dishes. If you want spicy, be specific; everything typically comes out mild.
5Lincoln Park & Old Town
oSultan’s MarketMIDDLE EASTERN$
(%872-253-1489; 2521 N Clark St, Lincoln Park; mains $4-10; h10am-10pm Mon-Sat, to 9pm Sun; v; mBrown, Purple, Red Line to Fullerton)
Neighborhood folks dig into plates heaped with falafel sandwiches, creamy hummus, lamb shawarma, spinach pies and other quality Middle Eastern fare at family-run Sultan’s Market. There’s a large salad bar, too. The small, homey space doesn’t have many tables, but Lincoln Park is nearby for picnicking.
oAlineaGASTRONOMY$$$
(%312-867-0110; www.alinearestaurant.com; 1723 N Halsted St, Lincoln Park; 10-/16-course menus from $205/290; h5-10pm; mRed Line to North/Clybourn)
One of the world’s best restaurants, the triple-Michelin-starred Alinea purveys multiple courses of molecular gastronomy. Dishes may emanate from a centrifuge or be pressed into a capsule, à la duck served with a ‘pillow of lavender air.’ There are no reservations; instead Alinea sells tickets two to three months in advance via its website. Check Twitter (@Alinea) for last-minute seats.
BokaMODERN AMERICAN$$$
(%312-337-6070; www.bokachicago.com; 1729 N Halsted St, Lincoln Park; mains $21-42, small plates $14-20, 8-course menus $125; h5-10pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat; mRed Line to North/Clybourn)
A Michelin-starred restaurant-lounge hybrid, Boka is a pre- and post-theater stomping ground for younger Steppenwolf patrons. Order a cocktail at the bar or slip into one of the booths for small-plate dishes such as striped-jack crudo or veal sweetbreads with charred cabbage.
5Lake View & Wrigleyville
oJennivee’sBAKERY$
(%773-697-3341; www.facebook.com/jennivees; 3301 N Sheffield Ave, Lake View; items $3.25-7.50; hnoon-midnight Tue-Thu, to 2am Fri, 10am-2am Sat, 10am-midnight Sun; mRed, Brown, Purple Line to Belmont)
This LGBTIQ-friendly bakery mixes Filipino and American flavors. The teeny room couldn’t be any cuter. Chandeliers dangle from the ceiling, and a handful of French-inspired tables and chairs let you sit in dainty comfort as you dig into Jennivee’s moist, creamy-frosted layer cakes and cupcakes. Specialties include purple velvet (made with purple yam) and mango cream cakes.
Gundis Kurdish KitchenKURDISH$$
(%773-904-8120; www.thegundis.com; 2909 N Clark St, Lake View; mains $17-26; h9am-9pm Mon, Wed & Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat, to 8pm Sun; mBrown, Purple Line to Wellington)
The owners, who hail from southern Turkey, prepare meals from their Kurdish homeland. Dishes include sac tawa, a traditional stir-fry of meat, peppers and tomatoes on a sizzling plate, and tirsik, a stew of eggplant, carrots and other veggies in a spicy sauce. Sunshine streams into the airy, exposed-brick room by day, while pendant lights create a romantic vibe at night.
DEEP-DISH CHICAGO
Deep-dish pizza is Chicago’s most famous concoction. These behemoths are nothing like the flat circular disks known as pizza in the rest of the world. Chicago’s thick-crusted pie stacks up like this: a fat and crumbly crust baked in a cast-iron pan (kind of like a skillet without a handle), capped by mozzarella, then toppings and sauce. Gino’s East (map Google map; %312-266-3337; www.ginoseast.com; 162 E Superior St, Streeterville; small pizzas from $18; h11am-9pm Sun-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat; mRed Line to Chicago), Pizano’s (map Google map; %312-236-1777; www.pizanoschicago.com; 61 E Madison St; small pizzas from $16; h11am-2am Sun-Fri, to 3am Sat; W; mRed, Blue Line to Monroe) and Lou Malnati’s (map Google map; %312-828-9800; www.loumalnatis.com; 439 N Wells St, River North; small pizzas from $13; h11am-11pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat; mBrown, Purple Line to Merchandise Mart) offer classic deep-dish.
An adjunct to the genre is stuffed pizza. It’s like deep dish on steroids, bigger and more decadent. Basically it’s dough, with cheese on top, then another layer of dough atop that, plus toppings. Giordano’s (map Google map; %312-951-0747; www.giordanos.com; 730 N Rush St, River North; small pizzas from $18; h11am-11pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat; mRed Line to Chicago) bakes a mighty one.
Pan pizza is the third contender. It’s similar to deep dish, but the crust is baked differently so it’s breadier, and it has a ring of caramelized cheese that crisps in the pan. Pequod’s (%773-327-1512; www.pequodspizza.com; 2207 N Clybourn Ave, Lincoln Park; small pizzas from $12; h11am-2am Mon-Sat, to midnight Sun; g9 to Webster) sets the standard for pan deliciousness.
5Andersonville & Uptown
oHopleafEUROPEAN$$
(%773-334-9851; www.hopleaf.com; 5148 N Clark St, Uptown; mains $9-32; hnoon-10pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat; g22, mRed Line to Berwyn)
A cozy, European-like tavern, Hopleaf draws crowds for its Montreal-style smoked brisket, cashew-butter-and-fig-jam sandwich, ubercreamy macaroni and Stilton cheese, and the house-specialty frites (fries) and beer-broth-soaked mussels. It also pours 200 types of brew (with around 60 on tap), emphasizing craft and Belgian suds. (The bar stays open several hours after the kitchen closes.)
PasserottoKOREAN$$
(%708-607-2102; www.passerottochicago.com; 5420 N Clark St, Andersonville; small plates $9-16; h5-10pm Tue-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat; g22, mRed Line to Berwyn)
Korean American chef Jennifer Kim showcases the food of her childhood through the influences of Italian cooking at Andersonville’s hottest new restaurant. The regularly changing menu features sharing plates of varying sizes, from raw Atlantic fluke or bay scallops to ddukbokki lamb ragu and kalbi short ribs for two ($38). Finish with Tuscan biscotti dipped in Italian raisin wine. Bookings advised.
5Lincoln Square & Ravenswood
GoosefootAMERICAN$$$
(%773-942-7547; www.goosefoot.net; 2656 W Lawrence Ave, Lincoln Square; tasting menu $145; h6-8:30pm Wed-Sat; mBrown Line to Rockwell)
Michelin-starred Goosefoot serves a cutting-edge, modern American tasting menu that never fails to surprise. For instance, your dessert – a vanilla-truffle-cherry-pink-peppercorn ice-cream cone – will arrive in a toy goose-foot-shaped holder surrounded by moss. Prepare for around six courses of richly textured, amazing-looking food. It’s BYOB, with most people buying a bottle at Goosefoot’s wine shop next door. Reservations required.
5Wicker Park, Bucktown & Ukrainian Village
oHoosier Mama Pie CompanyPIES$
(%312-243-4846; www.hoosiermamapie.com; 1618 W Chicago Ave, East Village; slices $5-6; h8am-7pm Tue-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat, 10am-4pm Sun; g66, mBlue Line to Chicago)
Soothing 1950s pastels and antique pie tins set the Americana vibe at Paula Haney’s celebrated pie shop, where hand-rolled, buttery-flaky crust is plumped full with fruit or creamy fillings. Favorites include sour-cream Dutch cranberry, banana cream, chocolate chess (aka ‘brownie pie’) and apple-blueberry-walnut. A handful of savory pies tempt, but let’s not kid ourselves – we’re here for the sweet stuff.
IrazuLATIN AMERICAN$
(%773-252-5687; www.irazuchicago.com; 1865 N Milwaukee Ave, Bucktown; mains $7-16; h11:30am-9:30pm Mon-Sat; v; mBlue Line to Western)
Chicago’s lone Costa Rican eatery turns out burritos bursting with chicken, black beans and fresh avocado, and sandwiches dressed in a heavenly, spicy-sweet vegetable sauce. Wash them down with an avena (a slurpable milkshake in tropical-fruit flavors). For breakfast, the arroz con huevos (peppery eggs scrambled into rice) relieves hangovers. Irazu is BYOB with no corkage fee. Cash only.
Dove’s LuncheonetteTEX-MEX$$
(%773-645-4060; www.doveschicago.com; 1545 N Damen Ave, Wicker Park; mains $13-22; h9am-10pm Mon-Thu, to 11pm Fri, 8am-11pm Sat, 8am-10pm Sun; mBlue Line to Damen)
Sit at the retro counter for Tex-Mex plates of pork-shoulder posole and buttermilk fried chicken with chorizo-verde gravy. Dessert? It’s pie, of course – maybe horchata, lemon cream or peach jalapeño, baked by Hoosier Mama. Soul music spins on a record player, tequila flows from the 70 bottles rattling behind the bar, and presto: all is right in the world.
5Logan Square & Humboldt Park
oSpinning JBAKERY$
(%872-829-2793; www.spinningj.com; 1000 N California Ave, Humboldt Park; mains $9-12; h7am-9pm Tue-Fri, 8am-9pm Sat & Sun; g52)
Retro-cute as can be, little Spinning J harks back to a 1950s soda fountain, with a line of counter stools and a smattering of booths where you can sip egg creams and malts made with housemade syrups in flavors such as Thai tea and bay rum cola. Classic sandwiches, hearty soups and sweet and savory pies also please the artsy-crafty patrons.
Ground ControlVEGETARIAN$
(%773-772-9446; www.groundcontrolchicago.com; 3315 W Armitage Ave, Logan Square; mains $10-12; h5-10pm Tue-Thu, 5-11pm Fri, 11am-11pm Sat, 11am-9pm Sun; v; g73)
Ground Control is an industrial, trippy mural-clad restaurant with pinball machines and craft beer on tap. That it’s meat-free is incidental. The dishes play off Asian, Latin and Southern flavors, like the Nashville hot tofu, sweet-potato tacos and wasabi portobello sandwich. It’s super delicious, and there’s always a cool-cat crowd.
GiantAMERICAN$$$
(%773-252-0997; www.giantrestaurant.com; 3209 W Armitage Ave, Logan Square; small plates $14-19; h5-10:30pm Tue-Sat; g73)
This wee storefront eatery produces huge flavors in its heady comfort food. Dishes like the king-crab tagliatelle, biscuits with jalapeño butter and sweet-and-sour eggplant have wowed the foodie masses, and rightfully so. The small plate portions mean you’ll need to order a few dishes to make a meal. Well-matched cocktails and wine add luster to the spread. Reserve ahead.
5West Loop & Near West Side
oLou Mitchell’sBREAKFAST$
(map Google map; %312-939-3111; www.loumitchells.com; 565 W Jackson Blvd, West Loop; mains $9-14; h5:30am-3pm Mon, to 4pm Tue-Fri, 7am-4pm Sat, to 3pm Sun; c; mBlue Line to Clinton)
A relic of Route 66, Lou’s brings in elbow-to-elbow locals and tourists for breakfast. The old-school waitstaff deliver big fluffy omelets and thick-cut French toast with a jug of syrup. They call you ‘honey’ and fill your coffee cup endlessly. There’s often a queue to get in, but free doughnut holes and Milk Duds help ease the wait.
MonteverdeITALIAN$$
(map Google map; %312-888-3041; www.monteverdechicago.com; 1020 W Madison St, West Loop; mains $18-24; h5-10:30pm Tue-Fri, 11:30am-10:30pm Sat, 11:30am-9pm Sun; mGreen, Pink Line to Morgan)
Housemade pastas are the specialty here. They seem simple in concept, such as the cacio whey pepe (small tube pasta with pecorino Romano, ricotta whey and four-peppercorn blend), but the flavors are lusciously complex. That’s why the light-wood tables in the lively room are always packed. Reserve ahead, especially for weekends, or try the bar or patio for walk-in seats.
oGirl & the GoatAMERICAN$$$
(map Google map; %312-492-6262; www.girlandthegoat.com; 809 W Randolph St, West Loop; small plates $12-19; h4:30-11pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat; v; mGreen, Pink Line to Morgan) S
Stephanie Izard’s flagship restaurant rocks. The soaring ceilings, polished wood tables and cartoon-y art on the walls offer a convivial atmosphere where local beer and housemade wine hit the tables, along with unique small plates such as catfish with pickled persimmons. Reservations are difficult; try for walk-in seats before 5pm or see if anything opens up at the bar.
5Hyde Park & South Side
Gorée CuisineSENEGALESE$$
(%773-855-8120; www.goreecuisine.com; 1126 E 47th St, Kenwood; mains $11-19; h9am-10pm Mon-Wed, 8am-11pm Thu-Sun; mMetra Electric Line to 47th St)
You’ll feel transported to Dakar upon entering this tidy, white-curtained cafe where spicy yassa chicken (marinated in lemon and onion), bissap (hibiscus flower drink) and a slew of other Senegalese dishes hit the tables. If you’re new to the cuisine, the friendly staff will help you order. Gorée offers a terrific, authentic, reasonably priced experience that’s rare to find.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Chicagoans love to hang out in drinking establishments. Blame it on the long winter, when folks need to huddle together somewhere warm. Blame it on summer, when sunny days make beer gardens and sidewalk patios so splendid. Whatever the reason, drinking in the city is a widely cherished civic pastime.
6The Loop
BerghoffBAR
(map Google map; %312-427-3170; www.theberghoff.com; 17 W Adams St; h11am-9pm Mon-Fri, from 11:30am Sat; mBlue, Red Line to Jackson)
The Berghoff dates from 1898 and was the first Chicago bar to serve a legal drink after Prohibition (ask to see the liquor license stamped ‘#1’). Little has changed around the antique wood bar since. Belly up for mugs of local and imported beers and order sauerbraten, schnitzel and pretzels the size of your head from the adjoining German restaurant.
6Pilsen & Near South Side
oAlulu Brewery & PubMICROBREWERY
(%312-600-9865; www.alulubrew.com; 2011 S Laflin St, Pilsen; h5pm-2am Mon, Wed & Thu, 3pm-2am Fri & Sun, 3pm-3am Sat; mPink Line to 18th St)
Pilsen’s bohemians love this intimate brewpub and no wonder. Join them at the reclaimed wood tables for a flight and fancy pub grub such as poutine with merguez-sausage gravy. The brewers play around with styles, so anything from a watermelon sour to coffee blond, wheat beer or Mexican lager may be pouring from the 20 taps when you visit.
6Near North & Navy Pier
oArbellaCOCKTAIL BAR
(map Google map; %312-846-6654; www.arbellachicago.com; 112 W Grand Ave, River North; h5pm-midnight Mon, to 2am Tue-Fri, to 3am Sat; mRed Line to Grand)
Named for a 17th-century ship full of wine-guzzling passengers, Arbella is an adventuresome cocktail bar. Booze from around the globe makes its way into the drinks, from rye to rum, pisco to mezcal. Park yourself at a dark leather banquette, under sparkly globe lights, and taste-trip the night away in one of the city’s warmest, coziest rooms.
Centennial Crafted Beer & EateryCRAFT BEER
(map Google map; %312-284-5353; www.centennialchicago.com; 733 N LaSalle Dr, Near North; h4pm-midnight Mon-Wed, 11:30am-midnight Thu, to 2am Fri, 10:30am-3am Sat, 10:30am-midnight Sun; mBrown, Purple Line to Chicago)
Centennial hides in plain sight. It’s rarely mobbed, like many of its neighborhood competitors, yet its 50 taps of carefully chosen craft beer and its cozy, candelabra-and-weathered-wood vibe are exactly what you want in a bar. Beer lovers will never want to leave. Four-beer flights are available that let you expand your hops horizon.
6Lincoln Park & Old Town
oDelilah’sBAR
(%773-472-2771; www.delilahschicago.com; 2771 N Lincoln Ave, Lincoln Park; h4pm-2am Sun-Fri, to 3am Sat; mBrown Line to Diversey)
A bartender rightfully referred to this hard-edged black sheep of the neighborhood as the ‘pride of Lincoln Ave’: a title earned for the heavy pours and the best whiskey selection in the city – more than 860 different labels! The no-nonsense staff know their way around a beer list, too, tapping unusual domestic and international suds. Cheap Pabst longnecks are always available.
Old Town Ale HouseBAR
(%312-944-7020; www.theoldtownalehouse.com; 219 W North Ave, Old Town; h3pm-4am Mon-Fri, noon-5am Sat, noon-4am Sun; mBrown, Purple Line to Sedgwick)
Located near the Second City comedy club and the scene of late-night musings since the 1960s, this unpretentious neighborhood favorite lets you mingle with beautiful people and grizzled regulars, seated pint by pint under the paintings of nude politicians (just go with it). Classic jazz on the jukebox provides the soundtrack for the jovial goings-on. Cash only.
6Lake View & Wrigleyville
oHungry BrainBAR
(%773-935-2118; www.hungrybrainchicago.com; 2319 W Belmont Ave, Roscoe Village; h7pm-2am, closed Tue; g77)
The owner of nearby music club Constellation also owns this off-the-beaten-path little bar. It charms with its kind bartenders and well-worn, thrift-store decor. It’s a hub of the underground jazz scene; Sunday nights are the mainstay (suggested donation $10), though there are shows and literary readings other nights of the week, too. Cash only.
Ten Cat TavernPUB
(%773-935-5377; 3931 N Ashland Ave, Lake View; h3pm-2am; mBrown Line to Irving Park)
Pool is serious business on the two vintage tables that the pub refelts regularly with Belgian material. The ever-changing, eye-catching art comes courtesy of neighborhood artists and the furniture is a garage saler’s dream. Regulars (most in their 30s) down leisurely drinks at the bar or, in warm weather, in the beer garden. The back room has a toasty fireplace.
6Lincoln Square & Ravenswood
oSpiteful BrewingMICROBREWERY
(%773-293-6600; www.spitefulbrewing.com; 2024 W Balmoral Ave, Ravenswood; h4-10pm Mon-Wed, to 11pm Thu, noon-midnight Fri & Sat, 11am-10pm Sun; W#; g50)
Spiteful’s taproom has a rock-and-roll, DIY vibe. Two home brewers launched the brand, and they now operate out of a renovated garage. The concrete floored, exposed-ductwork place has a long bar where you can belly up for hard-hitting pale ales, IPAs and double IPAs.
Begyle BrewingMICROBREWERY
(%773-661-6963; www.begylebrewing.com; 1800 W Cuyler Ave, Ravenswood; hnoon-9pm Mon-Thu, to 10pm Fri, 11am-10pm Sat, noon-8pm Sun; W#; mBrown Line to Irving Park)
Tucked in a warehouse by the train tracks, Begyle’s little taproom is a community hub. Friends play cards at one table, an old guy chills with his dog next to them, while work mates discuss business nearby. The blond and wheat ales are mainstays of the 15 beers on tap, but there are also some monster stouts and triple IPAs. They come in 5oz pours and pints, and you can bring in your own food to eat alongside them. Brewery tours ($10) take place at noon on Saturday and include generous samples.
NorthmanBAR
(%773-935-2255; www.thenorthman.com; 4337 N Lincoln Ave, Lincoln Square; h5pm-midnight Mon, to 2am Tue-Fri, noon-3am Sat, noon-2am Sun; mBrown Line to Montrose)
The Northman gives the neighborhood beer scene a twist by focusing on cider. Around 20 taps flow with tart, fermented creations from the US, England, France and Spain, and there’s a long list of calvados (apple or pear brandies), as well. The low-lit, dark-wood pub feels like it has been plucked from the English countryside.
6Wicker Park, Bucktown & Ukrainian Village
Violet HourCOCKTAIL BAR
(%773-252-1500; www.theviolethour.com; 1520 N Damen Ave, Wicker Park; h6pm-2am Sun-Fri, to 3am Sat; mBlue Line to Damen)
This nouveau speakeasy isn’t marked, so look for the wood-paneled building with a full mural and a yellow light over the door. Inside, high-backed booths, chandeliers and long velvet drapes provide the backdrop to elaborately engineered, award-winning seasonal cocktails with droll names. As highbrow as it sounds, friendly staff make Violet Hour welcoming and accessible.
6Logan Square & Humboldt Park
Metropolitan BrewingMICROBREWERY
(%773-754-0494; www.metrobrewing.com; 3057 N Rockwell St, Avondale; h4-10pm Mon, to 11pm Tue-Thu, to midnight Fri, noon-midnight Sat, noon-10pm Sun; g77)
An elder of the local beer scene, Metropolitan has expanded into a striking, retrofitted old tannery overlooking the Chicago River. The floor-to-ceiling windows provide water views, while the tables made of salvaged wood provide a place to put your slew of German-style lagers.
6West Loop & Near West Side
CH DistilleryDISTILLERY
(map Google map; %312-707-8780; www.chdistillery.com; 564 W Randolph St, West Loop; h4-10pm Mon-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat; mGreen, Pink Line to Clinton)
This slick tasting room has a cool, naturalistic look with exposed concrete posts and knotty wood beams across the ceiling. Slip into a seat at the bar and watch the silver tanks behind the big glass window distilling the organic vodka and gin that go into your creative cocktail.
oRM Champagne SalonWINE BAR
(map Google map; %312-243-1199; www.rmchampagnesalon.com; 116 N Green St, West Loop; h5pm-midnight Mon-Wed & Sun, 5pm-2am Thu-Sat, plus 11am-2pm Sat & Sun; mGreen, Pink Line to Morgan)
This West Loop spot is a twinkling-light charmer for bubbles. Score a table in the cobblestoned courtyard and you’ll feel transported to Paris. In winter, the indoor fireplace and plush seats provide a toasty refuge.
Haymarket Pub & BreweryBREWERY
(map Google map; %312-638-0700; www.haymarketbeer.com; 737 W Randolph St, West Loop; h11am-2am Sun-Fri, to 3am Sat; mGreen, Pink Line to Clinton)
An early arrival on the West Loop scene, Haymarket remains nicely low-key. It doesn’t try to win you over with uberhipness like many of its neighbors. Locals hang out in the cavernous, barrel-strewn space drinking fresh-from-the-tank recipes. The focus is on classic Belgian and German styles, but saisons, IPAs and barrel-aged barley wines fill glasses, too.
6Hyde Park & South Side
Marz Community BrewingMICROBREWERY
(%773-579-1935; www.marzbrewing.com; 3630 S Iron St, McKinley Park; hnoon-11pm Tue-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat, to 10pm Sun; g9)
Marz started as a group of home brewers whose friends demanded more. The small brewery is known for its peculiar creations, such as Potion #1 (aged in absinthe barrels), Diliner Weisse (with fresh dill) and Churros Y Chocolate (milk stout brewed with cocoa nibs and cinnamon). The taproom is a gathering spot for local artists and beer buffs.
LGBTIQ+ CHICAGO
Exploring kinky artifacts in the Leather Archives & Museum, or playing a game of naughty Twister at a rollicking street fair? Shopping for gay literature, or clubbing alongside male go-go dancers? Chicago’s flourishing gay and lesbian scene in party-hearty Boystown and easygoing Andersonville offers plenty of choices.
The main event on the calendar is the Pride Parade, held the last Sunday in June. It winds through Boystown and attracts more than 800,000 risqué revelers. Northalsted Market Days (www.northalsted.com; Boystown; hmid-Aug; mRed Line to Addison), held in Boystown, is a steamy two-day street fair in mid-August. Crafty, incense-wafting vendors line Halsted St, but most folks come for the drag queens in feather boas, Twister games played in the street and disco divas (Gloria Gaynor!) on the main stage. The International Mr Leather (www.imrl.com; hMay) contest brings out lots of men in, well, leather in late May. Workshops and parties take place around town, with the main event happening at a downtown hotel or theater.
The following resources will assist with your explorations:
Chicago Pride (www.chicagopride.org) Events and happenings in the community.
Purple Roofs (www.purpleroofs.com) Listings for queer accommodations, travel agencies and tours.
Windy City Times (www.windycitymediagroup.com) LGBTIQ+ newspaper, published weekly. The website is the main source for events and entertainment.