Great Plains
Missouri
St Louis
St Charles
Hannibal
Springfield
The Ozarks
Kansas City
Independence
St Joseph
Iowa
Des Moines
Sioux City
Davenport
Iowa City
Amana Colonies
Cedar Valley
Mt Vernon
Dubuque
Iowa’s Great Lakes
North Dakota
Fargo
Bismarck
Theodore Roosevelt National Park
South Dakota
Sioux Falls
Chamberlain
Pierre
Wall
Badlands National Park
Pine Ridge Indian Reservation
Black Hills
Nebraska
Omaha
Lincoln
Grand Island
North Platte
Valentine
Nebraska Panhandle
Kansas
Wichita
Lawrence
Topeka
Chase County
Oklahoma
Oklahoma City
Western Oklahoma
Tulsa
Guthrie
Anadarko
Muskogee
Tahlequah
Great Plains
Why Go?
To best comprehend this vast and underappreciated region in the heart of the US, you need to split up the name. The first word, ‘great,’ is easy. Great scenery, great food, great people: all apply. The problem is with ‘plains.’ ‘Humdrum’ and ‘flat’ come to mind. Neither word applies. Amid the endless horizons are cosmopolitan oases like Kansas City, alpine wonders in the Black Hills, and soaring bluffs along the Mississippi and Missouri Rivers. There are also illuminating tales of comings and goings, from Okies fleeing the Dust Bowl along Route 66 to Lewis and Clark navigating the American frontier and the Five Civilized Tribes marching westward on a Trail of Tears.
Great distances across the beguiling wide-open spaces are the biggest impediment to enjoying this enormous region. Many sights lie near the interstates, but many more are found along the ever-intriguing small roads – the ‘blue highways’ of lore.
When to Go
- Apr, May, Sep & Oct Average highs of 55°F (13°C) in the north, warmer in the south; uncrowded months.
- Jun–Aug Thunderstorms and even tornadoes; sultry days with blooming wildflowers.
- Nov–Mar Attractions cut back hours, or close. Blizzards shut down roads for days.
Best Places to Eat
A Bluestem
Best Places to Sleep
The Great Plains Highlights
1 St Louis Immersing yourself in the blues rhythms of one of America’s great old cities.
2 Black Hills Finding mountain highs within this green island rising above the golden plains.
3 Theodore Roosevelt National Park Gaping at the wildly striated, otherworldly landscapes of America’s lesser-known Badlands.
4 Kansas City Eating yourself silly on amazing barbecue while grooving to Kansas City jazz.
5 Great River Road Driving atop Iowa bluffs for soaring Mississippi River vistas.
6 Western Oklahoma Tracking elk and buffalo past buzzing prairie dog ‘towns’ and rolling tumbleweeds in the land where the west begins.
7 Route 66 Time-traveling down the neon-lit byways of yesteryear on the fabled Mother Road.
History
Spear-toting nomads hunted mammoths here 11,000 years ago, long before cannon-toting Spaniards introduced the horse (accidentally) around 1630. Fur-frenzied French explorers, following the Mississippi and Missouri Rivers, claimed most of the land between the Mississippi and the Rocky Mountains for France. The territory passed to Spain in 1763, the French got it back in 1800 and then sold it to the USA in the 1803 Louisiana Purchase.
Settlers’ hunger for land pushed resident Native American tribes westward, often forcibly, as in the notorious relocation of the Five Civilized Tribes – Cherokee, Chickasaw, Choctaw, Creek and Seminole – along the 1838–39 Trail of Tears, which led to Oklahoma from back east. Pioneers blazed west on trails such as the Santa Fe across Kansas.
Earlier occupants, including the Osage and Sioux, had different, but often tragic, fates. Many resettled in pockets across the region, while others fought for lands once promised.
Railroads, barbed wire and oil all brought change as the 20th century hovered. The 1930s Dust Bowl ruined farms and spurred many fed-up residents to head west. Even today, many regions remain eerily empty.
Farm consolidation in recent decades and the lure of economically vibrant cities have left hundreds of small towns withering on the vine. Frustrated residents have responded by voting increasingly conservative in a region once known for its populism.
Local Culture
The people who attempted to settle the Great Plains after the Native Americans usually faced difficult lives, marked by scarcity, uncertainty and isolation – and it literally drove many of them crazy. Others gave up and got out (failed homesteads dot the region). Only fiercely independent people could thrive in those conditions and that born-and-bred rugged individualism is the core of Plains culture today. Quiet restraint is considered an important and polite trait here.
8Getting There & Around
The main airports are in St Louis, Kansas City and Omaha. Each has service from major American cities. Dozens more airports in the region have services from major hub airports such as Chicago, Denver and Dallas.
Greyhound (www.greyhound.com) buses cover some interstates, while Jefferson Lines (www.jeffersonlines.com) and Burlington Trailways (www.burlingtontrailways.com) take up some of the slack. Many smaller towns have no bus service at all.
Amtrak (www.amtrak.com) runs four major routes across the Plains, making it easy to get here by train. However, getting around by train is impractical with the exception of between St Louis and Kansas City.
GREAT PLAINS IN…
One Week
Spend your first two or three days in St Louis before snaking up the Mississippi River to Iowa along the Great River Road. Skirt past the folksy Amana Colonies en route to the bucolic countrysides (and famous bridges) of Madison County. Head west to link up with Nebraska’s Hwy 2 for a drive through the remote Sandhills. Then cut north to South Dakota where the gorgeous Black Hills and Badlands National Park will vie for your remaining time.
Two Weeks
With two weeks behind the wheel, you can take a big bite out of the Plains. Do the trip as above, then head south from South Dakota into the Nebraska Panhandle, stopping at fascinating, isolated sites such as the Agate Fossil Beds and Scotts Bluff.
Meander down to Kansas and pick up US 50 heading east. Stop at the astonishing Cosmosphere in Hutchinson. Continue south to Oklahoma where you can join historic Route 66 in Oklahoma City heading northeast to Tulsa. Follow the Mother Road into Missouri where you can dip into the lush Ozark Mountains and zip up to Kansas City before finishing your trip back in St Louis.
Missouri
The most populated state in the Plains, Missouri likes to mix things up, serving visitors ample portions of both sophisticated city life and down-home country sights. St Louis and Kansas City are the region’s most interesting cities, and each is a destination in its own right. But, with more forest and less farm field than neighboring states, Missouri also cradles plenty of wild places and wide-open spaces, most notably the rolling Ozark Mountains, where the winding valleys invite adventurous exploration or just some laid-back meandering behind the steering wheel. Maybe you’ll find an adventure worthy of Hannibal native Mark Twain as you wander the state.
8Information
Missouri Division of Tourism (www.visitmo.com)
Bed & Breakfast Inns of Missouri (www.bbim.org)
Missouri State Parks (www.mostateparks.com) State parks are free to visit.
St Louis
POP 318,100
Slide into St Louis and revel in the unique vibe of the largest city in the Great Plains. Beer, bowling and baseball are some of the top attractions, but history and culture, much of it linked to the Mississippi River, are a vital part of the fabric. And, of course, there’s the iconic Gateway Arch that you have seen in a million pictures; it’s even more impressive in reality. Many music legends, including Scott Joplin, Chuck Berry, Tina Turner and Miles Davis, got their start here and jammin’ live-music venues keep the flame burning.
This old city by the river is a sensational place for food and nightlife. Plan on adding an extra day or more to your trip, for time to explore.
Greater St Louis
1Top Sights
1Sights
5Eating
6Drinking & Nightlife
7Shopping
1Sights
oGateway Arch National ParkNATIONAL PARK
(map Google map; 
%877-982-1410; www.gatewayarch.com; 11 N 4th St; tram ride adult/child from $12/8; 
hgrounds 5am-11pm, Arch 8am-10pm Jun-Aug, 9am-6pm Sep-May, last tram 1hr before closing; 
c)
As a symbol for St Louis, the Gateway Arch has soared above any expectations its backers could have had in 1965 when it opened. Now the centerpiece of its own recently christened national park, the silvery, shimmering Arch is the Great Plains’ own Eiffel Tower. It stands 630ft high and symbolizes St Louis’ historical role as ‘Gateway to the West.’ It’s the design of the legendary Finnish American architect Eero Saarinen (1910–1961).
The tram ride takes you to the tight confines at the top. Book tickets in advance online or by phone. At busy times, same-day tickets may be sold out. At the base, there is the interesting Museum at the Gateway Arch (map Google map; www.nps.gov/jeff; Gateway Arch; adult/child $3/free; h8am-10pm Jun-Aug, 9am-6pm Sep-May; c). You can also buy tickets for a documentary Monument to the Dream (adult/child $7/3). Various money-saving combo tickets are available; some include rides on the Gateway Arch Riverboats.
A massive project transformed the area around the Arch in time for its 50th birthday. The large Luther Ely Smith Square (map Google map; www.archpark.org; 20 N 4th St) 
F now covers noxious I-44 and connects the Arch and its park to the Old Courthouse (map; %314-655-1700; www.gatewayarch.com; h8am-4:30pm) F and the rest of Downtown. It’s a huge and welcome improvement.
A pro tip: the parkland around the Arch is a great place to escape the crowds and relax with a view of the Mississippi River.
oCity MuseumMUSEUM
(map Google map; www.citymuseum.org; 701 N 15th St; $16, with rooftop $21; h9am-5pm Mon-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat, 11am-5pm Sun; c)
Possibly the wildest highlight of any visit to St Louis is this frivolous, frilly fun house in a vast old shoe factory. The Museum of Mirth, Mystery & Mayhem sets the tone. Run, jump and explore all manner of exhibits, including a seven-story slide. The summer-only rooftop offers all manner of weird and wonderful fun, including a flamboyant Ferris wheel and a wild slide.
oForest ParkPARK
(map Google map; %314-367-7275; www.forestparkforever.org; bounded by Lindell Blvd, Kingshighway Blvd & I-64; h6am-10pm; c) F
New York City may have Central Park, but St Louis has the bigger (by 528 acres) Forest Park. The superb, 1371-acre spread was the setting of the 1904 World’s Fair. It’s a beautiful place to escape to and is dotted with attractions, many free. Two walkable neighborhoods, the Loop and Central West End, are close. The Visitor & Education Center is in an old streetcar pavilion and has a cafe. Free walking tours leave from here, or you can borrow an audio tour.
National Blues MuseumMUSEUM
(map Google map; %314-925-0016; www.nationalbluesmuseum.org; 615 Washington Ave; adult/child $15/10; h10am-5pm Tue-Thu & Sat, to 9pm Fri, noon-5pm Sun & Mon)
This flashy museum explores blues legends like hometown hero Chuck Berry, while making a strong case for the genre’s myriad influences on modern rock, folk, R&B and more. There are interactive exhibits from the likes of Jack White, and stories about the early years of blues and its (almost exclusively female) pioneers.
St Louis Art MuseumMUSEUM
(map Google map; www.slam.org; 1 Fine Arts Dr, Forest Park; h10am-5pm Tue-Thu, Sat & Sun, to 9pm Fri) F
This grand beaux-arts palace (with a striking modern wing) was originally built for the World’s Fair. Now housing this storied institution, its collection spans time and styles, and includes a variety of household names from Picasso to Van Gogh and Warhol. The beguiling Grace Taylor Broughton Sculpture Garden opened in 2015.
St Louis ZooZOO
(map Google map; %314-781-0900; www.stlzoo.org; 1 Government Dr, Forest Park; fee for some exhibits; h9am-5pm daily, to 7pm Fri-Sun May-Sep; 
pc) F
Divided into themed zones, this vast park includes a fascinating River’s Edge area with African critters. Don’t leave without saying hello to the zoo’s superstar: Kali the polar bear. Note that some exhibits such as the Sea Lion Show have admission charges averaging $4 per person.
St Louis Science CenterMUSEUM
(map Google map; %314-289-4400; www.slsc.org; 5050 Oakland Ave, Forest Park; h9:30am-5:30pm Mon-Sat, from 11am Sun; pc) F
The interactive exhibits at this three-story museum are geared toward kids (and the young at heart). Expect live demonstrations, dinosaurs, a planetarium and an IMAX theater (additional fee). The museum is connected to Forest Park by a dramatic pedestrian bridge.
Missouri History MuseumMUSEUM
(map Google map; %314-746-4599; www.mohistory.org; 5700 Lindell Blvd, Forest Park; h10am-5pm Wed-Mon, to 8pm Tue; p) F
Presents the story of St Louis, starring such worthies as the World’s Fair; a replica of Charles Lindbergh’s plane, Spirit of St Louis; and a host of bluesmen. Oral histories from those who fought segregation are moving.
ST LOUIS NEIGHBORHOODS
The St Louis neighborhoods of most interest radiate out from the city’s Downtown core:
Central West End Just east of Forest Park, a posh center for nightlife and shopping.
Grand Center Located in Midtown and rich with cultural attractions, theaters and historic sites.
The Hill An Italian American neighborhood with good delis and restaurants.
Lafayette Square Historic, upscale and trendy.
The Loop Northwest of Forest Park; home to funky shops and nightlife line Delmar Blvd.
Soulard The city’s oldest quarter, with good cafes, bars and blues.
South Grand Bohemian and gentrifying; surrounds beautiful Tower Grove Park and has a slew of ethnic restaurants.
2Activities
BoathouseBOATING
(map Google map; %314-722-6872; www.boathousestl.com; 6101 Government Dr, Forest Park; boat rental per hour from $15; h11am-approx 1hr before sunset, weather permitting)
In warm weather, rent a rowboat to paddle over Forest Park’s Post-Dispatch Lake. Traveling couples should inquire about Moonlight Paddleboat Picnics, which run Thursday nights from May to October. Other rentals include canoes and kayaks. There’s also a good restaurant (map; %314-366-1555; mains $11-24; h11am-8pm Mon-Thu, to 9pm Fri & Sat, 10am-7pm Sun) here.
Steinberg Skating RinkICE SKATING
(map Google map; %314-367-7465; www.steinbergskatingrink.com; 400 Jefferson Dr, Forest Park; admission $8, skate rental $7; h10am-9pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat mid-Nov–Feb)
The balm for cold weather: fun on the ice.
zFestivals & Events
Big Muddy Blues FestivalMUSIC
(www.bigmuddybluesfestival.com; Laclede’s Landing; hearly Sep)
Three stages of riverfront blues at Laclede’s Landing on the Labor Day weekend.
TTours
Gateway Arch RiverboatsBOATING
(map Google map; %877-982-1410; www.gatewayarch.com; 50 S Leonor K Sullivan Blvd; 1hr tour adult/child from $19/8; hMar-Nov)
Churn up the Big Muddy on replica 19th-century steamboats. A park ranger narrates the midday cruises in season, and those after 3pm sail subject to availability. There are also numerous dinner and drinking cruises. Various combo tickets are available with attractions at the Gateway Arch National Park.
4Sleeping
oCheshireHOTEL$$
(map Google map; %314-647-7300; www.cheshirestl.com; 6300 Clayton Rd; r $145-250; p
a
W
s)
This upscale inn near Forest Park oozes character, from its stained-glass windows to the all-encompassing British literary theme. The hodgepodge of artworks, antique furnishings and (occasionally frightening) taxidermy are sure to delight.
Parkway HotelHOTEL$$
(map Google map; %314-256-7777; www.theparkwayhotel.com; 4550 Forest Park Ave; r $160-250; pa
iW)
Right in the midst of Central West End’s upscale fun, this indie eight-story hotel contains 217 remodeled rooms (with refrigerators and microwaves) inside a grand limestone building. A hot buffet breakfast is included, and you can’t beat the location right across from Forest Park. The decor is sleek and contemporary.
Missouri Athletic ClubHOTEL$$
(map Google map; %314-231-7220; www.mac-stl.org; 405 Washington Ave; r $115-160; paW)
Stay in style Downtown close to the Arch. The Missouri Athletic Club is a grand old facility with 73 nice, traditional hotel rooms.
Moonrise HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
(map Google map; %314-721-1111; www.moonrisehotel.com; 6177 Delmar Blvd; r $155-450; paW
#)
The stylish eight-story Moonrise has a high profile amid the high energy of the Loop neighborhood. Its 125 rooms sport a lunar motif, but are grounded enough to slow things down to comfy.
5Eating
oAdriana’sITALIAN$
(map Google map; %314-773-3833; www.adrianasonthehill.com; 5101 Shaw Ave, The Hill; mains $5-10; h10:30am-3pm Mon-Sat)
Redolent of herbs, this family-owned Italian deli serves up fresh salads and sandwiches (get the meaty Hill Boy) to ravenous lunching crowds. The thin-crust pizza is also a treat; ask about the off-the-menu specials. Expect lines.
oCrown Candy KitchenCAFE$
(map Google map; %314-621-9650; www.crowncandykitchen.net; 1401 St Louis Ave; mains $5-10; h10:30am-8pm Mon-Thu, to 9pm Fri & Sat; c)
An authentic family-run soda fountain that’s been making families smile since 1913. Malts (hot fudge, yum!) come with spoons, the floats, well, float, and you can try the famous BLT. Homemade candies top it off.
Park Avenue CoffeeCAFE$
(map Google map; %314-231-5282; www.parkavenuecoffee.com; 417 N 10th St; h7am-6pm)
A treat unique to St Louis is the butter cake, a buttery treat that reminds one of a heavenly cross between cake and fudge. This small chain of local coffee shops sells much-loved examples that come in dozens of flavors. Have a dark coffee with a red velvet or a lemon raspberry version.
oBroadway Oyster BarCAJUN$$
(map Google map; %314-621-8811; www.broadwayoysterbar.com; 736 S Broadway; mains $10-20; h11am-3am)
Part bar, part live-music venue, but all restaurant, this joint jumps year-round. When the sun shines, people flock outside where they suck down crawfish and other Cajun treats. It’s nuts before and after Cardinals games.
oShaved DuckAMERICAN$$
(map Google map; %314-776-1407; www.theshavedduck.com; 2900 Virginia Ave; mains $10-23; h11am-9pm Mon, to 10pm Tue-Sat, noon-8pm Sun)
A South Grand stalwart, the Shaved Duck fires up its grills early in the day and turns out excellent BBQ, such as the signature smoked duck. Options include fab sandwiches and veggie sides. Live music weeknights.
oEleven Eleven MississippiTUSCAN$$
(map Google map; %314-241-9999; www.1111-m.com; 1111 Mississippi Ave; mains $9-25; h11am-10pm Mon-Thu, to midnight Fri, 5pm-midnight Sat; 
v)
This popular bistro and wine bar fills an old shoe factory. Dinner mains have a Tuscan flair and farm-to-table vibe. Other options on the seasonal menu include sandwiches, pizzas, steaks and veggie dishes. Excellent wine selection.
ST LOUIS LOCAL SPECIALTIES
Toasted ravioli They’re filled with meat, coated in breadcrumbs, then deep-fried. Practically every restaurant on The Hill serves them, most notably Mama Toscano’s (map Google map; %314-776-2926; www.mamatoscano.com; 2201 Macklind Ave; mains $6-15; h8am-5:30pm Tue-Fri, to 5pm Sat). Another good source is Charlie Gitto’s (map Google map; %314-772-8898; www.charliegittos.com; 5226 Shaw Ave; mains $16-30; h5-10pm Mon-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat, 4-9pm Sun; p).
St Louis pizza Its thin-crusted, square-cut pizzas are really addictive. They’re made with Provel cheese, a locally beloved gooey concoction of processed cheddar, Swiss and provolone. Local chain Imo’s (map Google map; %314-641-8899; www.imospizza.com; 1 S Broadway; mains from $10; h11am-7pm Mon-Sat), with over 70 locations across the metro area, bakes ‘the square beyond compare,’ or get your pizza with Provel at the popular Joanie’s Pizzeria (map Google map; %314-865-1994; www.joanies.com; 2101 Menard St; mains $10-15; h11am-11pm Sun-Wed, to midnight Thu-Sat, bar 11am-2am).
Frozen custard Generations have found joy delighting in the local version of ice cream at historic Ted Drewes (map; %314-481-2652; www.teddrewes.com; 6726 Chippewa St; cones $2-6; h11am-11pm Feb-Dec), southwest of the city center on old Route 66. There’s a smaller summer-only branch south of the city center at 4224 S Grand Blvd. Frozen custard differs from regular ice cream because – like its namesake – it contains egg yolks, which make the treat creamier and richer.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Laclede’s Landing, Soulard and the Loop are loaded with pubs and bars, many with live music. Most bars close at 1:30am, though some have 3am licenses.
The Grove, a strip of Manchester Ave between Kingshighway Blvd and S Vandeventer Ave, is the hub of St Louis’ LGBT+ community. Peruse Vital Voice (www.thevitalvoice.com) for info.
oBlueberry HillBAR
(map Google map; %314-727-4444; www.blueberryhill.com; 6504 Delmar Blvd; h11am-late)
St Louis native Chuck Berry rocked the small basement bar here until the day he died in 2017. The venue hosts bands big and small and has good pub food (mains $7 to $15), arcade games, darts and walls covered in pop-culture memorabilia.
Bridge Tap House & Wine BarBAR
(map Google map; %314-241-8141; www.thebridgestl.com; 1004 Locust St; h11am-1am Mon-Sat, to midnight Sun)
Slip onto a sofa or rest your elbows on a table at this romantic bar where you can savor fine wine or the best local beer (over 50 on tap) and nibble a variety of exquisite little bites from a seasonal menu.
DRINK LOCAL
Schlafly (map; %314-241-2337; www.schlafly.com; 2100 Locust St; h11am-10pm Mon-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat, noon-9pm Sun), Civil Life (map; www.thecivillife.com; 3714 Holt Ave; h4-11pm Tue-Thu, noon-11pm Fri & Sat, 11am-9pm Sun), Earthbound Brewing (map; %314-769-9576; www.earthboundbeer.com; 2724 Cherokee St; h4pm-midnight Tue-Fri, from noon Sat, noon-10pm Sun) and Urban Chestnut (map; %314-222-0143; www.urbanchestnut.com; 4465 Manchester Ave; h11am-11pm Mon-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat, to 9pm Sun) are excellent local microbrews that will let you forget that you’re in the home of Bud. The website STL Hops (www.stlhops.com) is an excellent guide to local beers and where to drink them.
3Entertainment
oVenice CafeBLUES, JAZZ
(map; %314-772-5994; www.thevenicecafe.com; 1903 Pestalozzi St; h4pm-1am Mon-Sat)
A true cabinet of curiosities. The interior of this two-level club is a master class in mosaics, while the rambling outdoor garden is chock-full of folk art and twinkling lights. Best of all, the drinks are cheap and there’s live blues, rock and jazz seven days a week.
Old Rock HouseLIVE MUSIC
(map Google map; %314-534-1111; www.oldrockhouse.com; 1200 S 7th St)
A great, sweaty club that draws big regional acts. Look for rock (new and old), blues, country, punk, metal and more.
YOUR BELGIAN BUD
One of the world’s largest beer plants, the historic Anheuser-Busch Brewery (map; %314-577-2626; www.budweisertours.com; cnr 12th & Lynch Sts; h10am-5pm Mar-Oct, 11am-4:30pm Nov-Feb)gives marketing-driven tours. View the bottling plant and Clydesdale horses. One thing to note: the purchase of this St Louis (and American) icon by Belgium’s InBev in 2008 is still a sore spot locally. And don’t ask: ‘How do you remove all the flavor?’
7Shopping
oLeft Bank BooksBOOKS
(map Google map; %314-367-6731; www.left-bank.com; 399 N Euclid Ave; h10am-10pm Mon-Sat, 11am-6pm Sun)
A great indie bookstore stocking new and used titles. There are recommendations of books by local authors and frequent author readings.
8Information
Explore St Louis (map; %314-421-1023; www.explorestlouis.com; Gateway Arch Visitor Center, Luther Ely Smith Square, West entrance; h9am-5pm; W) An excellent resource, with another branch at the airport.
Forest Park Visitor & Education Center (map; %314-367-7275; www.forestparkforever.org; 5595 Grand Dr; h6am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 7pm Sat & Sun; W) Located in an old streetcar pavilion and has a cafe. Free walking tours leave from here, or you can borrow an audio tour.
Missouri Welcome Center (%314-869-7100; www.visitmo.com; Riverview Dr, I-270 exit 34; h8am-5pm Mon-Sat)
8Getting There & Away
St Louis Lambert International Airport (STL; www.flystl.com; I-70 exit 238A), a primary Great Plains airport, is 12 miles northwest of Downtown and is connected by the light-rail MetroLink ($2.50) and taxi (about $45).
Amtrak’s (www.amtrak.com) Lincoln Service travels five times daily to Chicago (from $25, 5½ hours). Two daily Missouri River Runner trains serve Kansas City (from $34, 5½ hours). The daily Texas Eagle goes to Dallas (16 hours). Trains leave from the Gateway Transportation Center (map; 430 S 15th St).
Greyhound (www.greyhound.com) buses depart several times daily to Chicago ($18, five to seven hours), Memphis ($26, six hours), Kansas City ($24, 4½ hours) and many more cities from Gateway Transportation Center.
Megabus (www.megabus.com) runs services to Chicago for as little as $10 one way from the same station.
8Getting Around
Metro (www.metrostlouis.org) runs local buses and the MetroLink light-rail system (which connects the airport, the Loop, Central West End, the Gateway Transportation Center/Union Station and Downtown). Buses 30 and 40 serve Soulard from Downtown. A single bus/light rail ticket is $2/2.50. A day pass is $7.50.
St Louis County Cabs (%314-991-5300; www.countycab.com) Call, book online or use the app.
St Charles
POP 70,300
This Missouri River town, founded by the French in 1769, is just 20 miles northwest of St Louis. The cobblestoned Main St anchors a well-preserved downtown with artisan shops, cafes and gourmet grocers. The visitor center (%800-366-2427; www.historicstcharles.com; 230 S Main St; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, from 10am Sat, from noon Sun) has an excellent audio walking tour available online, which covers some rare French-colonial architecture in the Frenchtown neighborhood just north of downtown.
The 240-mile-long Katy Trail, which spans the state, passes through St Charles.
Lewis & Clark Boat House & MuseumMUSEUM
(%636-947-3199; www.lewisandclarkcenter.org; 1050 S Riverside Dr; adult/child $5/2; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, from noon Sun)
Lewis and Clark began their journey in St Charles on May 21, 1804, and their time here is reenacted annually on that date. This museum has displays about the journey and replicas of the boats.
oBoone’s Colonial InnB&B$$$
(%636-493-1077; www.boonescolonialinn.com; 322 S Main St; r $190-300; paW)
The four suites in these 1820 stone row houses are posh escapes. If all are booked out, try the sister property, Boone’s Lick Trail Inn, five blocks down the road. The innkeeper of both, Venetia, is extraordinarily knowledgeable about the town and its history.
8Getting There & Away
St Charles is just 20 miles northwest of St Louis. The St Charles Area Transit system, SCAT, has an I-70 commuter service that provides bus transportation to the St Louis MetroLink at North Hanley Station.
Hannibal
POP 17,600
When the air is sultry in this old river town, you almost expect to hear the whistle of a paddle steamer. Mark Twain’s boyhood home, 115 miles northwest of St Louis, has some authentically vintage sections and plenty of sites (including caves) where you can get a sense of the author and his creations Tom Sawyer and Huck Finn.
oMark Twain Boyhood Home & MuseumMUSEUM
(%573-221-9010; www.marktwainmuseum.org; 120 N Main St; adult/child $12/6; h9am-5pm mid-Mar–Dec, 10am-4pm Jan–mid-Mar; c)
This museum presents eight buildings, including two homes Twain lived in and that of Laura Hawkins, the real-life inspiration for Becky Thatcher in The Adventures of Tom Sawyer. Be sure to check out the Twain-inspired Norman Rockwell paintings at the Museum Gallery before you leave. In summer, an actor gives readings from Twain’s writing.
8Information
Hannibal Convention and Visitors Bureau (%573-221-2477; www.visithannibal.com; 505 N 3rd St; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat & Sun) The visitor center can hook you up with all things Twain.
8Getting There & Away
Hannibal is 115 miles northwest of St Louis on either Hwy 61 or the longer and more scenic MO 79. Burlington Trailways (www.burlingtontrailways.com) links the two cities with a daily bus ($40, 2¼ hours).
Springfield
POP 167,400
Whether you’re tooling along Route 66 or transiting to or from Branson to the south, Springfield makes an excellent stop. The compact downtown is an attractive collection of historic brick buildings while the Commercial St district to the north is also appealing, historic and boasts a good range of places to eat and drink.
1Sights
Fantastic CavernsCAVE
(%417-833-2010; www.fantasticcaverns.com; 4872 N Farm Rd 125; adult/child $26/17; h8am-8pm Apr-Aug, shorter hours other times)
All manner of geologic wonders are on display at these caverns, which wend through the eroded limestone beneath the Ozarks, 8 miles northwest of downtown Springfield. As the countless billboards and other hype never tire of reminding, visitors are hauled around the stalactites in trailers pulled by jeeps and never need do any walking at all. Besides all the natural wonders, there’s good info on how mere drops of water create this geologic beauty.
Wilson’s Creek National BattlefieldHISTORIC SITE
(%417-732-2662; www.nps.gov/wicr; 6424 W Farm Road 182, Republic; adult/child $10/free)
The sight of the first major Civil War battle fought west of the Mississippi River, this large rolling open space is a fascinating place to visit. The land looks much as it did in 1861 when a large Union force tried to surprise a Confederate force here. After a day’s intense fighting leading to 2500 total casualties, the Union troops retreated. Visitors can drive, walk or bike a 4.9-mile loop through the battlefield. Signs explain what happened where.
WORTH A TRIP
SAINTE GENEVIEVE
Sixty-five miles south of St Louis, this petite, French-founded Mississippi River town is home to plenty of history. Many of the restored 18th- and 19th-century buildings are now B&Bs or gift shops. Follow the Route du Vin (www.rdvwinetrail.com) out of town to explore one of Missouri’s finest wine trails and the five vineyards along it.
Yes, the town’s Cave Vineyard (%573-543-5284; www.cavevineyard.com; 21124 Cave Rd; h10am-6pm Apr-Oct, to 5pm Nov-Mar) is a vineyard with a cave (and yes, you can drink in the cave). If you’d like to stay the night, the Inn St Gemme Beauvais (%573-883-5744; www.innstgemme.com; 78 N Main St; r $100-190; aW) is the oldest continuously operated B&B in Missouri.
4Sleeping & Eating
oBest Western Route 66 Rail HavenMOTEL$
(%417-866-1963; www.bestwestern.com; 203 S Glenstone Ave; r $70-120; aWs)
Perfectly maintained and right up-to-date where it counts, this 1956 motor court is a Route 66 classic. Lovingly restored by its owners, the motel has stylish midcentury decor inside and a huge pool outside. Rooms have microwaves and fridges.
oArtisan’s OvenCAFE$
(%417-885-5030; www.theartisansoven.com; 206 E Commercial St; mains $5-12; h7am-4pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat; W)
This exceptional bakery and cafe makes some of the best sandwiches in southwest Missouri. Eat in or takeaway, the breads on offer are all housemade. Other treats include cinnamon rolls, blueberry muffins and house-made granola. Save room for a slice of pie.
8Information
Route 66 Springfield Visitor Center (%800-678-8767; www.springfieldmo.org; 815 E St Louis St; h8am-5pm; W) An excellent resource, this super-friendly tourist office will provide you with a refreshing drink and answer any question. It has extensive Route 66 material.
8Getting There & Away
Greyhound runs buses along I-44 northeast to St Louis ($40, four hours, four daily) and southwest to Tulsa ($38, 3½ hours, four daily). Jefferson Lines (www.jeffersonlines.com) has buses north to Kansas City ($29, four hours, one daily).
ROUTE 66: GET YOUR KICKS IN MISSOURI
The Show-Me State will show you a long swath of the Mother Road. Meet the route in St Louis, where Ted Drewes has been serving frozen custard to generations of roadies from its Route 66 location on Chippewa St. There are a couple of well-signed historic routes through the city.
Follow I-44 (the interstate is built over most of Route 66 in Missouri) on a westbound journey down the Mother Road to Route 66 State Park (%636-938-7198; www.mostateparks.com; N Outer Rd, I-44 exit 266; h7am-30min after sunset, museum 9am-4:30pm Mar-Nov) F, with its visitor center and museum inside a 1935 roadhouse. Although the displays show vintage scenes from around St Louis, the real intrigue here concerns the town of Times Beach, which once stood on this very site. It was contaminated with dioxin and in the 1980s the government had to raze the entire area.
Head southwest on I-44 to Stanton, then follow the signs to family-mobbed Meramec Caverns (%573-468-3166; www.americascave.com; I-44 exit 230, Stanton; adult/child $22/12; h8:30am-7:30pm Jul & Aug, 9am-7pm May & Jun, reduced hours Sep-Apr; c), as interesting for the Civil War history and hokey charm as for the stalactites; and the conspiracy-crazy Jesse James Wax Museum (%573-927-5233; www.jessejameswaxmuseum.com; I-44 exit 230, Stanton; adult/child $10/5; h9am-6pm daily Jun-Aug, 9am-5pm Sat & Sun Apr-May & Sep-Oct), which posits that James faked his death and lived until 1951.
The Route 66 Museum & Research Center (%417-532-2148; www.lebanon-laclede.lib.mo.us; 915 S Jefferson Ave; h8am-8pm Mon-Thu, to 5pm Fri & Sat) F at the library in Lebanon has memorabilia past and present. Ready for a snooze? Head to the 1940s Munger Moss Motel (%417-532-3111; www.mungermoss.com; 1336 E Seminole Ave (Rte 66), near I-44 exit 130; r from $60; aWs). It’s got a monster of a neon sign and Mother Road–xloving owners.
Or continue on to Springfield where you can stay at the iconic Best Western Route 66 Rail Haven. Then take Hwy 96 to Civil War-era Carthage with its historic town square and 66 Drive-In Theatre (%417-359-5959; www.66drivein.com; 17231 Old 66 Blvd, Carthage; adult/child $8/4; hafter dusk Thu-Sun Apr-Sep; c). In Joplin get on State Hwy 66, turning onto old Route 66 (the pre-1940s route), before the Kansas state line.
The Route 66 Association of Missouri (www.missouri66.org) is a great resource. And don’t miss the Conway Welcome Center (%417-589-0023; I-44 Mile 110, near Conway; h8am-5pm), which has an over-the-top Route 66 theme and scads of info on this most historic of roads.
The Ozarks
Ozark hill country spreads across southern Missouri and extends into northern Arkansas and eastern Oklahoma. Flashy Branson receives the lion’s share of tourists, though the region’s true charms lie further afield in the rolling hills and deep clefts, where wild spring-fed rivers carry legions of happy people floating downstream.
North of US 60, the Ozark National Scenic Riverways – the Current and Jacks Fork Rivers – boast 134 miles of splendid canoeing and inner-tubing (rental agencies abound). Weekends often get busy and boisterous. The park headquarters, outfitters and motels are in Van Buren. Eminence also makes a good base. There are many campgrounds along the rivers. Sinuous Hwy E and Hwy 19 are scenic gems.
Amid it all are forgotten small towns, and both popular and remote beautiful state parks.
1Sights & Activities
oEcho Bluff State ParkSTATE PARK
(%844-322-3246; www.echobluffstatepark.com; 34489 Echo Bluff Dr, Eminence; hdawn-10pm; c) F
With lush forests and facilities befitting a top-tier national park, Echo Bluff is a true Ozarks highlight. Opened in 2016, this state park has a soaring stone lodge, spacious cabins and ample camping options. Use it as a base for hiking, fishing and mountain biking. It is a great place for river floats.
oTaum Sauk Mountain State ParkSTATE PARK
(%573-546-2450; www.mostateparks.com/park/taum-sauk-mountain-state-park; Hwy. CC, Middle Brook) F
Many Missouri state parks cater to fun and games like fishing and tubing. Not this one. You can scale the state’s highest peak, Taum Sauk Mountain (1772ft) and cool off under one of the state’s tallest waterfalls, 132ft Mina Sauk Falls. Both are reached by trails through rocky, raw forest that are just challenging enough to make it interesting. The view of the Ozarks from the summit – especially in fall – is sublime.
Ozark National Scenic RiverwaysNATIONAL PARK
(%573-323-4236; www.nps.gov/ozar; 404 Water-cress Dr, Van Buren; hpark 24hr, visitor center 8am-4:30pm daily Jun-Aug, Mon-Fri Sep-May) F
Two wild rivers, the Current and the Jacks Fork, wind through 80,000 acres of raw Ozark beauty in this area managed by the National Park Service. There are myriad natural pursuits here, with canoeing being a top activity along with river floating. Numerous natural springs feed the river, the most famous being Big Spring (www.nps.gov/ozar/planyourvisit/big-spring.htm; Pea Vine Rd, Van Buren). Hiking is popular, especially along the Ozark Trail (%573-436-0540; www.ozarktrail.com), which runs for more than 350 miles in 13 sections.
Harvey’s Alley Spring Canoe RentalCANOEING
(%573-226-3386; www.harveysalleyspring.com; 13863 Hwy 106, Alley Spring Campground, Eminence; canoe rental per day from $45; h8am-8pm Jun-Aug, shorter hours other times)
One of several outfitters on the Current River, Harvey’s wins plaudits for its welcoming attitude, especially to river novices. Besides renting canoes and kayaks, it offers transport services so you can leave your car at one spot, float away and get a ride back later. It also organizes guided trips.
CATCHIN’ THE KATY
Katy Trail State Park (%573-449-7402; www.katytrailstatepark.com; hdawn-dusk; c), America’s longest rail-to-trail walking and biking route, starts in Machens near St Louis and St Charles and ends in Clinton, 70 miles southwest of Kansas City. Its 240 miles span the state from east to west and pass through some bucolic, sylvan countryside and atmospheric small towns. Built on an abandoned line of the Missouri-Kansas-Texas Railroad (known as the Katy), the trail has very gentle slopes, wide curves and a smooth gravel surface, making it suitable for almost everyone.
4Sleeping & Eating
The small towns of Van Buren and Eminence have scenic campgrounds, basic motels, rustic cabins and picturesque riverside resorts. You’ll also find top-notch lodgings in Echo Bluff State Park. Campgrounds are found everywhere. In Branson and the surrounds your lodging options are near limitless.
Landing Current RiverHOTEL$$
(%573-323-8156; www.eatsleepfloat.com; 106 Olive St, Van Buren; r $95-160)
Perched along the banks of the Current River near Van Buren, this scenic hotel is the perfect base for exploring the Ozark National Scenic Riverways. All the rooms have balconies overlooking the river. You can also book overnight camping trips by canoe or raft, ranging from one to five nights out.
Slice of PieBAKERY$
(%573-364-6203; www.asliceofpierolla.com; 601 Kingshighway St, Rolla; snacks from $4; h10am-10pm)
Pie! Who doesn’t say they love it, but when was the last time you had a really good slice? Amid pervasive mediocrity, this family-run pie shop is a winner. Every day there are different flavors and the most popular sell out early. Order yourself a ‘pie sampler’ – a selection of eight different slices in a pie tin – to go with you on your Ozarks adventure.
8Getting There & Around
Part of the Ozarks’ charm is its remote location. Accessing the region beyond Branson will likely require a curvaceous drive on scenic two-lane byways. Public transportation is nonexistent in the Ozarks.
Branson
POP 11,500
Hokey Branson is a cheerfully shameless tourist resort. The main attractions are the more than 50 theaters hosting 100-plus country music, magic and comedy shows. The neon-lit ‘76 Strip’ (Hwy 76) packs in miles of motels, restaurants, wax museums, fudgeries, fun parks and theaters. Drive just a few minutes out of town, however, and you’ll find yourself in pristine Ozark wilderness.
1Sights
Silver Dollar CityAMUSEMENT PARK
(%800-831-4386; www.silverdollarcity.com; 399 Silver Dollar City Pkwy; 1-day adult/child $68/58; hhours vary)
A Branson original, this huge amusement park west of town has thrilling roller-coasters, water rides, a firefighter-themed area and musical shows.
Table Rock LakeLAKE
Snaking through the hills 2 miles southwest of Branson, large Table Rock Lake is a deservedly popular destination for boating, fishing, camping and other outdoor activities.
4Sleeping & Eating
oBranson HotelB&B$$
(%417-544-9814; www.thebransonhotel.com; 214 W Main St; r $130-180; aW)
Dating to 1903, this plush nine-room B&B is right in the old town. It’s away from the frenetic commercialism of the Strip, and has a great on-site wine bar. No children.
oDobyns Dining RoomAMERICAN$$
(%417-239-1900; www.keetercenter.edu; 1 Opportunity Ave, Keeter Center; mains $8-20; h10:30am-8pm Mon-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun)
Located by College of the Ozarks (and staffed by its students, who also make the ice cream), this is as close to fine dining as Branson gets. The setting is grand (think country chic), the prices are reasonable (particularly at lunch) and the service is impeccable (we’d give the staff an A+).
Gettin’ BastedBARBECUE$$
(%417-320-6357; www.gettinbasted.com; 2845 W Hwy 76; mains $9-25; h11am-10pm)
Brisket, pulled pork and that holy grail of barbecue, burnt ends, are the stars at one of the very best places to eat on the Strip. The pitmasters here have the awards to prove it.
3Entertainment
Branson’s Famous BaldknobbersLIVE PERFORMANCE
(%417-231-4999; www./baldknobbers.com; 645 Hwy 165, Branson Famous Theatre; adult/child $39/19; husually Apr-Dec)
If you’re going Branson, go all in with the musical comedy show that started it all in 1959. Three generations of the Mabe family – and a lot of ‘friends’ – cover country and gospel tunes, dance and offer up cornball comedy that thinks fake buck teeth are a hoot. The entire enterprise was chronicled in the reality TV series Branson Famous.
8Information
Branson/Lakes Area Convention and Visitors Bureau (%417-334-4084; www.explorebranson.com; 4100 Gretna Rd, Shoppes at Branson Meadows; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri) The CVB has oodles of information; the website is an excellent resource.
8Getting There & Around
Tucked into the scenic southern corner of the state, Branson is surprisingly hard to reach, although this means you may end up driving some rural and lovely two-lane Ozark roads to get here.
Branson Airport (BKG; www.flybranson.com; 4000 Branson Airport Blvd), 10 miles south of the Hwy 76 Strip, is a small airport with Frontier Airlines services from Chicago, Denver and Dallas.
Jefferson Lines (www.jeffersonlines.com) has buses to Kansas City ($35, five hours, one daily).
During the summer, the SUV-laden roads often crawl with traffic and it can be faster to walk than drive, although few visitors consider doing this.
Kansas City
POP 489,000
With its fiery barbecues (100-plus joints smoke it up), bubbling fountains (more than 200; on par with Rome) and blaring jazz, Kansas City is one of America’s most appealing cities. It’s certainly a don’t-miss Great Plains highlight with world-class museums and quirky art-filled neighborhoods that jostle for your attention. You can easily run aground for several days as you tune into the local vibe.
1Sights
State Line Rd divides KCMO (Kansas City, MO) and KCK (Kansas City, KS). The latter is a bland swath of suburban sprawl with little to offer travelers. KCMO has some distinct areas, including the art-deco-filled downtown area.
oNegro Leagues Baseball MuseumMUSEUM
(%816-221-1920; www.nlbm.com; 1616 E 18th St; adult/child $10/6; h9am-6pm Tue-Sat, from noon Sun)
This comprehensive museum covers the lesser-known history of African American teams, such as the KC Monarchs and New York Black Yankees, that flourished until baseball became fully integrated. It’s part of the Museums at 18th & Vine complex.
oNational WWI MuseumMUSEUM
(%816-888-8100; www.theworldwar.org; 2 Memorial Dr; adult/child $18/10; h10am-5pm daily Jun-Aug, Tue-Sun Sep-May; p)
Enter this impressive modern museum on a glass walkway over a field of red poppies, the symbol of remembrance of WWI. Through detailed and engaging displays, learn about a war that is almost forgotten by many Americans. The only quibble is that military hardware and uniforms take precedence over the horrible toll of the trench fighting. The museum is crowned by the historic Liberty Memorial, which has sweeping views over the city.
oNelson-Atkins Museum of ArtMUSEUM
(%816-751-1278; www.nelson-atkins.org; 4525 Oak St; h10am-5pm Mon, Wed, Sat & Sun, to 9pm Thu & Fri; p) F
Giant badminton shuttlecocks (the building represents the net) surround this encyclopedic museum, which has standout European painting, photography and Asian art collections. With free entry, a gorgeous sculpture garden and an expansive collection from top-tier artists, what’s not to like? Blockbuster special exhibits carry admission fees.
Union StationHISTORIC BUILDING
(%816-460-2020; www.unionstation.org; 30 W Pershing Rd; station free, Science City $13.25; hhours vary; c)
Opened in 1914, KC’s Union Station is a sublime example of the magnificent architecture that once was the hallmark of American train stations. Today it has been beautifully renovated and houses an array of attractions as well as the station where four Amtrak trains stop daily. There’s Science City, an interactive museum devoted to just that, plus a planetarium, shops, a performance venue, a train museum and a huge, free model train exhibit that draws mobs at Christmas.
TTours
Kansas City Walking ToursWALKING
(%816-725-0794; www.kcwalkingtours.com; 200 Main St; tours from $48)
Walking tours of River Market, including a themed food tour that takes two hours and does a deep dive at City Market and the surrounding blocks. Other tours utilize the excellent KC Streetcar to explore the city.
TOURING THE FOUNTAINS
Spraying their streams large and small, Kansas City’s more than 200 fountains are beautiful amenities and many are truly spectacular works of art. The website for the City of Fountains Foundation (www.kcfountains.com) is a great resource, with maps, info and downloadable self-guided tours. Among the best are JC Nichols Memorial Fountain, near Country Club Plaza, and the Crown Center Square Fountain.
zFestivals & Events
American Royal World Series of BarbecueFOOD & DRINK
(www.americanroyal.com; 400 Speedway Blvd, Kansas Speedway; tickets $6-55; hSep)
For over 40 years, the world’s largest barbecue contest has taken over Kansas City for one weekend, with more than 500 international teams in competition.
4Sleeping
oJefferson House B&BB&B$$
(%816-673-6291; www.jeffersonhousekc.com; 1728 Jefferson St; r $155-195; paW)
Jefferson House is funkier than most Missouri mansion-cum-B&Bs, with a mix of modern and classic touches. There are just three rooms and one has sweeping city views. It’s the kind of home you’d live in if you had exquisite taste. Stylish touches abound; breakfasts are excellent.
AladdinBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
(%816-421-8888; www.hialaddin.com; 1215 Wyandotte St; r $120-220; aW)
Affiliated with Holiday Inn, this 16-story hotel dates from 1925. It has been restored to its Italian Romanesque splendor and has 193 compact yet stylish rooms. It was a legendary haunt of mobsters and Greta Garbo. Not your ordinary chain hotel.
Southmoreland on the PlazaB&B$$
(%816-531-7979; www.southmoreland.com; 116 E 46th St, Country Club Plaza; r $130-250; paW)
The 12 rooms at this posh B&B are furnished like the home of your rich country-club friends. It’s a big old mansion between the art museums and the Plaza (%816-753-0100; www.countryclubplaza.com). Extras include Jacuzzis, sherry, a fireplace and more. Some rooms have outside sitting areas, others are snug.
5Eating
oBetty Rae’s Ice CreamICE CREAM$
(%816-214-8753; www.bettyraes.com; 412 Delaware St; from $4; h11am-10pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat; c)
The best ice cream in the Great Plains? Could be. Choose from 25 flavors of sensationally creamy ice cream, including the remarkable lavender honey. After surviving the queue, relax on the tree-shaded patio.
Winstead’s SteakburgerBURGERS$
(%816-753-2244; www.winsteadssteakburger.com; 101 Emmanuel Cleaver II Blvd; mains $4-6; h6:30am-midnight Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat; c)
Cheery servers sling plates of top-notch burgers to families, hungover hipsters and more at this Country Club Plaza institution, which dates to 1940. Don’t miss the onion rings and chili, or breakfasts.
oGolden OxSTEAK$$
(%816-842-2866; www.goldenoxkc.com; 1600 Genessee St; mains $12-60; h5-10pm Tue-Sat, 4-9pm Sun)
In 1949, when this riverfront strip was the site of the KC stockyards, the Golden Ox served its first steak. Over the years it became a legend for serving the very best cuts of beef. Even after the stockyards were demolished, the Ox soldiered on. Recently it’s had a makeover and once again serves KC’s best steak.
oBluestemMODERN AMERICAN$$$
(%816-561-1101; www.bluestemkc.com; 900 Westport Rd; 3-/5-/10-course meal $80/90/115, bar snacks $5-20; hkitchen 5-10pm Tue-Sat, bar 4-11pm; pv)
Multiple-award-winning Bluestem has a casual elegance that extends from the bar to the dining room. Many stop into this Westport star just for a fine cocktail and some of the small plates of exquisite snacks (the cheeses, oh!). Dinner features an array of seasonal small courses (go for the wine pairings).
GREAT BARBECUE IN KANSAS CITY
Savoring hickory-smoked brisket, pork, chicken or ribs at one of the barbecue joints around town is a must for any visitor. The local style is pit-smoked and slathered with heavily seasoned vinegar-based sauces. You may well swoon for ‘burnt ends,’ the crispy ends of smoked pork or beef brisket. Amazing.
Q39 (%816-255-3753; www.q39kc.com; 1000 W 39th St; mains $9-30; h11am-10pm Mon-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat, to 9pm Sun; p) BBQ cooking goes upmarket without losing its soul.
Arthur Bryant’s (%816-231-1123; www.arthurbryantsbbq.com; 1727 Brooklyn Ave; mains $9-16; h10am-9pm Mon-Sat, 11am-8pm Sun; p) The silky, fiery sauce is reason enough for a visit.
Joe’s Kansas City Bar-B-Que (%913-722-3366; www.joeskc.com; 3002 W 47th Ave; mains $8-26; h11am-9pm Mon-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat; p) The lines outside attest to the pull of Joe’s juicy pulled-pork sandwiches.
LC’s Bar-B-Q (%816-923-4484; www.lcsbarbq.com; 5800 Blue Pkwy; mains $9-22; h11am-9pm Mon-Sat; p) For those who like their BBQ sauce sweet and thick.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Up-DownBAR
(%816-982-9455; www.updownkc.com; 101 Southwest Blvd; h3pm-1am Mon-Fri, 11am-1am Sat, 11am-midnight Sun)
A popular bar-cum-playground south of downtown, Up-Down caters to the inner child with an array of games from pinball to video. There are huge decks and great music. The superb tap-beer lineup includes all the beers from Boulevard Brewery (%816-474-7095; www.boulevard.com; 2501 Southwest Blvd; tours from $5; h11am-8pm Mon-Thu, 10am-9pm Fri & Sat, to 6pm Sun), which are brewed just up the hill.
Border Brewing CoBREWERY
(%816-315-6807; www.borderbrewco.com; 406 E 18 St; h4-9pm Wed & Thu, noon-11pm Fri & Sat, noon-8pm Sun)
Border brews its beers with an edge of extra hops and other flavors like citrus and berries. The line-up changes with the seasons. Its tap room in the Crossroads district is compact and welcoming. In summer the front opens up and there is a commodious deck.
Tom’s TownDISTILLERY
(%816-541-2400; www.toms-town.com; 1701 Main St; tours $10; h4pm-midnight Tue-Fri, 2pm-midnight Sat, 2-10pm Sun)
Tom’s Town, downtown KC’s first legal distillery since Prohibition, pays homage to the city’s Prohibition-flouting political boss Tom Pendergast. Try the housemade vodka, gin or bourbon and let the art deco furnishings take you back to the days when Kansas City was known as the ‘Paris of the Plains.’ Creative small bites are on the menu.
3Entertainment
The free weekly Pitch (www.thepitchkc.com) has the best cultural calendar.
oMutual Musicians FoundationJAZZ
(%816-471-5212; www.mutualmusicianslive.com; 1823 Highland Ave; hmidnight-5am Sat & Sun)
Near 18th and Vine in the Historic Jazz District, this former union hall for African American musicians has hosted after-hours jam sessions since 1930. Famous veteran musicians gig with young hotshots. It’s friendly and pretension-free. A little bar serves cheap drinks in plastic cups. No cover charge (though a $10 donation is suggested). It only opens late on Friday and Saturday nights.
Blue Room Jazz ClubLIVE MUSIC
(www.americanjazzmuseum.org; 1600 E 18th St; Mon & Thu free, cover varies Fri & Sat; h5-11pm Mon & Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat)
This slick club, known for its jazz, blues and instrumentals, is part of the American Jazz Museum (%816-474-8463; 1616 E 18th St; adult/child $10/6; h9am-6pm Tue-Sat, noon-6pm Sun, plus 9am-6pm Mon Jun-Aug). It hosts local talent for free performances on Monday and Thursday. Touring acts perform weekends. Major shows are held at the adjoining Gem Theater.
Truman Sports ComplexSTADIUM
(I-70 exit 9)
Locals are passionate about major-league baseball’s Royals (who won the World Series in 2015) and the NFL’s close-but-no-cigar Chiefs. Both play at gleaming side-by-side stadiums east of the city near Independence.
8Information
Greater Kansas City Visitor Center (%816-691-3800; www.visitkc.com; 1321 Baltimore Ave; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat) Other locations include the National WWI Museum and Union Station.
Missouri Welcome Center (%816-889-3330; www.visitmo.com; 4010 Blue Ridge Cutoff, Truman Sports Complex; h8:30am-4:30pm Mon-Fri) Statewide maps and information at I-70 exit 9.
8Getting There & Away
Kansas City International Airport (MCI; www.flykci.com; off I-29 exit 13) is a confusing array of circular terminals 15 miles northwest of downtown. It has good domestic service. A taxi to downtown/Plaza costs about $40 to $45. Or take the cheaper Super Shuttle (%800-258-3826; www.supershuttle.com; from $25).
Amtrak (www.amtrak.com) trains stop in majestic Union Station (www.unionstation.org; 30 W Pershing Rd; h6am-midnight). Two daily Missouri River Runner trains go to St Louis (from $34, 5½ hours). The Southwest Chief stops here on its daily runs between Chicago and LA via Omaha.
Greyhound (%816-221-2835; www.greyhound.com; 1101 Troost St) runs buses daily to St Louis ($24, 4½ hours) from the station poorly located east of downtown.
Jefferson Lines (%816-221-2885; www.jeffersonlines.com; 1101 Troost St, Greyhound Terminal) travels along I-29 north to Omaha ($49, three hours), I-35 to Des Moines ($32, 3½ hours) and southwest to Tulsa ($50, five hours).
8Getting Around
Ride KC (www.ridekc.org) fares are $1.50. A one-day pass costs $3 and you can buy it on the bus. Bus 47 runs regularly between downtown, Westport and Country Club Plaza.
KC Streetcar (www.kcstreetcar.org; h6am-midnight Mon-Thu, to 2am Fri, 7am-2am Sat, 7am-11pm Sun) is very handy and free. It travels for 2 miles downtown largely on Main St from River Market to Union Station and Crown Center, running every 10 to 15 minutes.
Independence
POP 117,300
Picture-perfect Independence is the ideal stereotype of an old Midwestern small town. It was the home of Harry S Truman for 64 years, including when he was US president from 1945 to 1953. It has some unmissable museums as well as Truman’s actual home – which today astounds for its simplicity and accessibility.
1Sights
oTruman HomeHISTORIC BUILDING
(%ticket info 816-254-9929; www.nps.gov/hstr; 219 N Delaware St; h9am-4:30pm, closed Mon Nov-May) F
See the simple life Harry (1884–1972) and Bess (1885–1982) lived in this basic but charming wood house. It’s furnished with their original belongings and you fully expect the couple to wander out and say hello. The former president lived here from 1919 to 1972 and in retirement entertained visiting dignitaries in his strictly pedestrian front room. He’s said to have hoped none of the callers would linger more than 30 minutes. Tour tickets are distributed at the visitor center.
4Sleeping & Eating
Higher Ground HotelHOTEL$$
(%816-836-0292; www.highergroundhotel.com; 200 N Delaware St; r $90-130; aW)
Across the street from the Truman Home, this 30-room hotel looks basic from the outside. Enter its cheery halls, however, and you’ll find well-appointed (and individually designed) digs, some of which look out over a serene garden. It’s close to Independence’s modest nightlife.
Englewood CafeAMERICAN$
(%816-461-9588; 10904 E Winner Rd; mains $6-12; h6am-8pm Mon, Wed & Fri, noon-3pm Tue & Thu, 6am-2pm Sat & Sun)
Follow the glow of the red neon sign in the window to this great diner a short drive from the Truman Home. The pot roast special draws diners from miles around while the many homemade pies keep them coming back for more.
8Information
Truman Home Visitor Center (%816-254-9929; www.nps.gov/hstr; 223 N Main St; h8:30am-5pm) Truman Home tour tickets are distributed here on a first-come, first-served basis. There’s a good bookstore.
8Getting There & Away
Independence is a quick 20-minute drive east of Kansas City. For public transportation, grab bus 24 on Grand Blvd in downtown KC for the 50-minute journey to Independence.
St Joseph
POP 76,400
A major departure point for pioneers, this scruffy riverside town is a tad unkempt around the edges but has a revitalized downtown district with quirky shops and dining options filling once-abandoned storefronts. There are several compelling museums. Get details at the visitor center near I-29.
1Sights
Glore Psychiatric MuseumMUSEUM
(%816-232-8471; www.stjosephmuseum.org; 3406 Frederick Ave; adult/child $6/4; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, from 1pm Sun)
Housed in the former ‘State Lunatic Asylum No 2,’ this museum gives a frightening and fascinating look at lobotomies, the ‘bath of surprise’ and other discredited treatments. Price includes admission to three other museums on-site, covering Native American art, local African American history and toy dolls.
4Sleeping
oShakespeare ChateauB&B$$
(%816-232-2667; www.shakespearechateau.com; 809 Hall St; r $135-200; aW#)
This elegant 1885 mansion houses five spacious guest rooms upstairs and a handful of common parlors from which to soak in the opulence of yesteryear. Spread throughout are 47 stained-glass windows (look for the masterpiece in the stairwell), as well as swooping chandeliers, cherry-wood carvings and a fine art collection. Prepare to be dazzled.
5Eating & Drinking
Ben Magoon’s Famous DelicatessenPUB FOOD$
(%816-232-3611; www.magoonsdeli.com; 632 S 8th St; mains $7-8; h11am-1:30am Mon-Sat, food until 3pm Mon-Thu, until 9pm Fri & Sat)
This downtown tavern dates back to the 1920s, when the real Ben Magoon started serving what became much-loved sandwiches. The current owners carry on this tradition, including Magoon’s original Reuben. Drinks are creative and include fresh ingredients; the beer list is good. On many nights there’s live music.
oTiger’s DenBAR
(%816-617-2108; 519 Felix St; h3-11pm Mon-Wed, from 11am Thu-Sat)
Part used bookstore, part cocktail bar, Tiger’s Den is the stuff of Hemingway dreams. Sit on one of the plush sofas and order a drink inspired by the contents of the all-surrounding bookshelves, including Agatha Christie’s Sparkling Cyanide or a Tequila Mockingbird.
8Information
St Joseph Visitor Center (%816-232-1839; www.stjomo.com; 502 N Woodbine Rd, near I-29 exit 47; h9am-3pm Mon-Fri, plus Sat Jun-Aug) Get details on the town’s many museums at the visitor center near I-29.
8Getting There & Away
St Joseph is about an hour north of Kansas City along I-29. Greyhound buses ply I-29, serving Kansas City ($12, one hour, two daily).
Iowa
The towering bluffs on the Mississippi River and the soaring Loess Hills lining the Missouri River bookend the rolling farmland of this bucolic state. In the middle you’ll find the writers’ town of Iowa City, the commune dwellers of the Amana Colonies, and plenty of picture-perfect rural towns, including those amid the covered bridges of Madison County.
Iowa emerges from slumber every four years as the make-or-break state for presidential hopefuls. The Iowa Caucus opens the national election battle, and wins by George W Bush in 2000 and Barack Obama in 2008 stunned many pundits and launched their victorious campaigns.
8Information
Iowa Tourism Office (www.traveliowa.com)
Iowa State Parks (www.iowadnr.gov) State parks are free to visit.
Des Moines
POP 217,500
Des Moines, meaning ‘of the monks’ not ‘in the corn’ as the surrounding fields might suggest, is Iowa’s fast-growing capital. The city has an amazing state capitol building, buzzing enclaves like the East Village and one of the nation’s best state fairs. Pause for a night, then get out and see the rest of Iowa.
1Sights
oState CapitolHISTORIC BUILDING
(%515-281-5591; www.legis.iowa.gov/resources/tourCapitol; cnr E 9th St & Grand Ave; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat) F
From the sparkling gold dome to the spiral staircases and stained glass in the law library, every detail at this bling-heavy capitol (1886) seems to try to outdo the next. Join a free tour and you can climb halfway up the dome. The gift shop is filled with Iowa goodies.
Valley JunctionAREA
(www.valleyjunction.com; cnr 5th St & Maple St)
This historic old village is now part of West Des Moines. The five-block-long commercial strip on Fifth St is the most interesting in the region. Over 60 locally owned shops, bars, bakeries, cafes and more line the strip in attractive old brick buildings. It’s ungentrified and there’s not a franchise or chain in sight. Great strolling.
Des Moines Art CenterMUSEUM
(%515-277-4405; www.desmoinesartcenter.org; 4700 Grand Ave; h11am-4pm Tue-Wed, Fri-Sun, to 9pm Thu) F
This art museum’s complex is an all-star monument to some of the greatest architects of the modern era; Eliel Saarinen, IM Pei and Richard Meier all designed portions. Inside there’s a solid collection of art from the 19th century onwards. Matisse, O’Keefe, Rodin and Warhol are some of the names represented. Don’t miss the museum’s Pappajohn Sculpture Park (%515-277-4405; www.desmoinesartcenter.org; 1330 Grand Ave; h6am-midnight) F closer to downtown.
zFestivals & Events
oIowa State FairFAIR
(%800-545-3247; www.iowastatefair.org; cnr E 30th St & E University Ave; adult/child $12/6; h7am-1am mid-Aug; c)
Much more than just country music and butter sculpture, this festival draws a million visitors over its 11-day run. They enjoy the award-winning farm critters and just about every food imaginable that can be shoved on a stick. It’s the setting for the Rodgers and Hammerstein musical State Fair and the 1945 film version.
4Sleeping
Des Lux HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(%515-288-5800; www.desluxhotel.com; 800 Locust St; r $180-350; aW)
An elegant five-story commercial building downtown has been transformed into a luxurious hotel with only 51 rooms. It’s got more character than the chains and lots of extras, like a lavish breakfast.
Renaissance Savery HotelHISTORIC HOTEL$$$
(%515-244-2151; www.marriott.com; 401 Locust St; r $160-400; aW)
Dating to 1919, this 11-story hotel presents a dignified appearance, thanks to its stolid colonial revival style. The 233 rooms are comfortable and have a safe corporate style.
5Eating
Machine ShedAMERICAN$
(%515-270-6818; www.machineshed.com/urbandale; 11151 Hickman Rd, Urbandale; mains $6-15; c)
This excellent restaurant serving hearty fare is out west near I-35/80 exit 125 and the Living History Farms. It’s a bustling place that emphasizes top quality, with phenomenal breakfasts and favorites like chicken-fried steak and pork tenderloin. The biggest challenge is saving room for the banana cream pie. The Machine Shed is a great stop if you’re just zipping by on the interstate.
oRocaAMERICAN$$
(%515-282-3663; www.rocadsm.com; 208 Court Ave; mains $14-30; h3-10pm Mon-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat, 4-9pm Sun)
Inventive, fresh seasonal fare is the hallmark of this industrial chic eatery downtown. Always crowded, diners share large and small plates of the familiar and the unfamiliar, all prepared with flair from local sources. A tater tot appetizer shares the menu with shrimp and polenta. The wine and cocktail list is superb; happy hour is a local phenomenon.
Tumea & SonsITALIAN$$
(%515-282-7976; www.tumeaandsons.net; 1501 SE 1st St; mains $9-30; h11am-2pm & 4:30-9pm Mon-Thu, 11am-2pm & 4:30-10pm Fri, 4:30-10pm Sat)
Generations of locals have feasted on homestyle Italian classics at this proudly family-run restaurant. Have an amazingly cheap mixed drink at the bar while you wait for your table. Then navigate the long menu for a plethora of pasta and sauce combinations. The steaks are good, as are the meatballs. Out back is a grapevine-shaded bocce ball court.
6Drinking
oIowa TaproomCRAFT BEER
(%515-243-0827; www.iowataproom.com; 215 E 3rd St; h11am-midnight Mon-Sat, to 10pm Sun)
The best beers from over 30 Iowa breweries feature at this fiercely local pub in East Village. It’s got the expected industrial vibe (the building was a series of factories starting in 1882) and it also has a great menu of burgers and other beer-friendly comfort fare.
Black SheepBAR
(www.facebook.com/blacksheepdsm; 223 E Walnut St; h7pm-2am Wed-Sat)
Tequila and vampires: those are two of the main themes at East Village’s edgiest bar. Let the red neon glow lure you down to this small basement space where DJs spin vinyl that usually results in a lot of uninhibited dancing. Beach goth is a common theme.
7Shopping
oDes Moines Downtown Farmers MarketMARKET
(%515-286-4928; www.dsmpartnership.com/desmoinesfarmersmarket; cnr Court Ave & 4th St; h7am-noon Sat May-Oct)
Around 95% of Iowa’s land is considered very fertile – the highest percentage of any state in the US – and you’ll see the best of the bounty the state produces at this hugely popular farmers market. Hundreds of stalls selling produce, prepared foods, baked goods, meals, snacks, handicrafts and much more draw in crowds every week.
8Getting There & Away
Located 3 miles southwest of town, Des Moines International Airport (DSM; %515-256-5050; www.dsmairport.com; 5800 Fleur Dr) has services from major US cities and hubs.
Burlington Trailways (www.burlingtontrailways.com) has daily buses on I-80 to Omaha ($43, 2¼ hours) and Chicago ($52, six hours) while Jefferson Lines (www.jeffersonlines.com) follows I-35 to Kansas City ($32, 3¼ hours).
MADISON COUNTY
This scenic county, about 30 miles southwest of Des Moines, slumbered for half a century until Robert James Waller’s blockbuster, tear-jerking novel The Bridges of Madison County. That and its 1995 Clint Eastwood/Meryl Streep movie version brought in scores of fans to check out the covered bridges where Robert and Francesca fueled their affair.
The farms and open land in this area are pleasantly bucolic, and the towns postcard-perfect. St Charles is home to the oldest of the six surviving covered bridges, while tourism-hub Winterset has the rest, as well as a gorgeous silver-domed courthouse (%515-462-4451; www.madisoncoia.us; 112 John Wayne Dr; h8am-4:30pm) F. In between the two you’ll find a few vineyards, breweries and cideries.
Sioux City
POP 82,600
Right on the Missouri River, Sioux City makes for a fine stop when traveling to or from South Dakota. There’s an excellent museum dedicated to explorers Lewis and Clark, and some classic places to eat that date back decades, to a time when the city was still a major industrial center known for its huge stockyards (now mostly closed).
Lewis & Clark Interpretive CenterMUSEUM
(%712-224-5242; www.siouxcitylcic.com; 900 Larsen Park Rd, near I-29 exit 149; h9am-5pm Tue-Fri, from noon Sat & Sun; c) F
On August 20, 1804, Sergeant Charles Floyd became the only person to die on the Lewis and Clark expedition team, probably from appendicitis. You can learn much more about this and other aspects of the journey at the beautiful Lewis & Clark Interpretive Center, which is right on the Missouri River.
Tastee Inn & OutFAST FOOD$
(%712-255-0857; www.tasteeinnandout.com; 2610 Gordon Dr; mains $4-7; h11am-11pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat)
Run by the Calligan family since 1955, this Sioux City institution is a true drive-in (the only interior seating is the seats in your car). There are two specials here. One is the Tastee, an Iowa loosemeat sandwich (a much-loved regional specialty that combines loose ground beef, onions and orange cheese). The other is onion chips, which are battered and fried.
8Getting There & Away
Jefferson Lines (www.jeffersonlines.com) runs two buses daily along I-29 south to Omaha ($39, 95 minutes) and north to Sioux Falls ($28, 80 minutes).
Davenport
POP 102,300
Davenport is the largest and most appealing of the Quad Cities that cluster around this region of the Mississippi riverfront (the other three are Bettendorf in Iowa and Moline and Rock Island in Illinois). It boasts a grand setting with a vast network of walking and biking trails.
1Sights
Figge Art MuseumMUSEUM
(%563-326-7804; www.figgeartmuseum.org; 225 W 2nd St; adult/child $10/4; h10am-5pm Tue, Wed, Fri & Sat, to 9pm Thu, noon-5pm Sun)
The glass-walled Figge Art Museum sparkles above the River Road. The museum’s Midwest Regionalist Collection includes many works by Iowa native (and American Gothic painter) Grant Wood; you can also stroll through the world-class Haitian and Mexican Colonial collections.
4Sleeping & Eating
oBeiderbecke Bed & BreakfastB&B$
(%563-323-0047; www.beiderbeckeinn.com; 532 W 7th St; r $95-110; aW)
This is the Stick-style Victorian home of jazz legend Bix Beiderbecke’s grandparents. Now a four-room B&B, it’s got some incredible period wallpaper and wild rugs with competing patterns. The rooms are spacious and two have river views.
Freight House Farmers MarketMARKET$
(%563-322-6009; www.freighthousefarmersmarket.com; 421 W River Dr; h4-8pm Wed, 8am-1pm Sat, 10am-2pm Sun)
Your one-stop year-round source for organic goods, local craft beers and deli sandwiches in an old rail freight house on the waterfront. The two-story brick complex also has a fantastic seasonal outdoor market with heaps of regional produce.
8Information
The visitor center (%563-322-3911; www.visitquadcities.com; 136 E 3rd St, RiverCenter; h8:30am-5pm Mon-Fri year-round, 9am-4pm Sat May-Oct) is downtown in the RiverCenter development. It has info for the entire Quad Cities region.
8Getting There & Away
Davenport lies on the border with Illinois. Greyhound (www.greyhound.com) has several buses a day to Chicago ($30, three hours), while Burlington Trailways (www.burlingtontrailways.com) serves major Iowa cities.
Iowa City
POP 75,800
The youthful, artsy vibe here is courtesy of the University of Iowa campus. It spills across both sides of the Iowa River (which has good walks on the banks); to the east it mingles with the charming downtown. In summer, when the student-to-townie ratio evens out, the city mellows somewhat.
The school’s writing programs are renowned, and Iowa City was named a Unesco City of Literature in 2008. For a sharp parody of the town and school, read Jane Smiley’s Moo. If you have time, the University of Iowa has good art and natural-history museums.
Note that neighboring Coralville is everything that Iowa City is not: overrun with chains and strip malls.
1Sights
Herbert Hoover National Historic SiteMUSEUM
(%319-643-2541; www.nps.gov/heho; 110 Parkside Dr, West Branch, near I-80 exit 254; site free, museum adult/child $10/3; h9am-5pm)
Herbert Hoover, the president of the United States from 1929 to 1933, will forever be remembered for the Great Depression, the economic cataclysm that wiped out the livelihoods of millions. However, he lived a long life (1874–1964) and devoted much of it to public service. This complex preserves the house and some of the nearby structures from the time of his birth until age nine, when he was orphaned and left the area. The museum places his life into context.
4Sleeping & Eating
oBrown Street InnB&B$$
(%319-338-0435; www.brownstreetinn.com; 430 Brown St; r $110-170; aiW)
Four-poster beds and other antiques adorn this six-room 1913 Dutch Colonial place that’s an easy walk from downtown. Ask the amiable owner about the house next door, where Kurt Vonnegut wrote early chapters of Slaughterhouse-Five.
Clinton Street Social ClubGASTROPUB$$
(%319-351-1690; www.clintonstreetsocial.com; 18½ S Clinton St; mains $11-28; hkitchen 4-10pm, bar to 1am)
This swanky 2nd-floor gastropub boasts locally sourced meals and killer libations at the long cocktail bar. Classic movies play on Monday nights and there’s live jazz at least twice a month on Thursdays. Professors often come here for half-priced cocktails and bar food during ‘social hour’ (weekdays 4pm to 6pm).
8Getting There & Away
Iowa City is right off I-80. Burlington Trailways (www.burlingtontrailways.com) buses link Iowa City with Des Moines ($18, two hours), Davenport ($12, one hour) and other Iowa cities.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
ELDON
Grab a ‘tool’ out of your trunk and make your very own parody of Grant Wood’s iconic American Gothic (1930) – the pitchfork painting – in tiny Eldon, about 100 miles southeast of Des Moines. The original house depicted in the artwork is across from the American Gothic House Center (%641-652-3352; www.americangothichouse.net; American Gothic St; h10am-5pm Tue-Sat, 1-4pm Sun & Mon) F, which interprets the painting that sparked a million parodies (it even has loaner costumes so you can make your own parody selfie). The actual painting is in the Art Institute of Chicago.
Amana Colonies
These seven villages, just north of I-80, are stretched along a 17-mile loop. All were first established as German religious communes between 1855 and 1861 by Inspirationists who, until the Great Depression, lived a utopian life with no wages paid and all assets communally owned. Unlike the Amish and Mennonite religions, Inspirationists embrace modern technology (and tourism).
Today the well-preserved (and discreetly tasteful) villages offer a glimpse of this unique religious culture, and there are lots of arts, crafts, cheeses, baked goods and wines to buy.
1Sights
Amana Heritage MuseumMUSEUM
(%319-622-3567; www.amanaheritage.org; 705 44th Ave, Amana; adult/child $8/4; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, noon-4pm Sun Apr-Oct, 10am-5pm Sat Mar, Nov & Dec)
Offers a good overview of the colonies. Ask about the self-guided walking and driving routes that can be accessed via your phone.
4Sleeping & Eating
Zuber’s Homestead HotelINN$
(%319-622-3911; www.zubershomesteadhotel.com; 2206 44th Ave, Homestead; r $100-140; aW)
Each of the 15 rooms in this 1860s brick building has an individual Iowa theme, as well as a note from the owner detailing a day trip to the area where you can further explore that theme. Rates include a hot breakfast buffet.
Amana Meat Shop & SmokehouseDELI$
(%800-373-6328; www.amanameatshop.com; 4513 F St, Amana; snacks from $3; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm Sun)
A kingdom of locally produced cheeses and smoked meats. Get your picnic supplies here.
8Information
Amana Colonies Visitors Center (%319-622-7622; www.amanacolonies.com; 622 46th Ave, Amana; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat, 10am-5pm Sun May-Oct, 10am-4pm daily Nov-Apr) Stop at the visitor center in an old corn crib for the essential guide-map. Ask about the bus and walking tours.
8Getting There & Away
There is no public transportation in the colonies.
Cedar Valley
Cedar Valley is a regional hub for outdoor recreation with numerous trails for biking, hiking and paddling. At its heart are the towns of Waterloo and Cedar Falls. The latter is home to five John Deere tractor factories and is the place to get one of those prized green-and-yellow caps you’ve seen across middle America. There are also some regal old buildings in its otherwise gritty downtown. Nearby Cedar Falls is Waterloo’s posh little sister city, with a crooked Main St brimming with boutique shops and cafes.
TTours
John Deere Tractor Cab Assembly ToursTOURS
(%800-765-9588; www.deere.com; 3500 E Donald St, Waterloo; htours 8am, 10am & 1pm Mon-Fri) F
Fun 90-minute tractor-driven tours show how parts of tractors are made. The minimum age is 13 and reservations are required at least 48 hours in advance. Afterwards visit the John Deere Tractor & Engine Museum (%319-292-6126; www.deere.com; 500 Westfield Ave, Waterloo; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat, noon-4pm Sun) F.
4Sleeping & Eating
oBlack Hawk HotelHISTORIC HOTEL$$
(%319-277-1161; www.theblackhawkhotel.com; 115 Main St, Cedar Falls; r $100-200; paW)
This is the longest continuously operating hotel west of the Mississippi and a true treasure of downtown Cedar Falls. Open since 1853, it’s been kept in fine fettle ever since. There are 28 rooms in the historic hotel and 15 cheaper ones in a modern building behind it. The restaurant and bar serve innovative and farm-fresh food and drinks.
oGalleria De PacoITALIAN$$
(%319-833-7226; https://galleria-de-paco.business.site; 622 Commercial St, Waterloo; mains $15-35; h4:30-10pm Tue-Sat)
It took Michelangelo four years to paint the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel, but it took Evelin ‘Paco’ Rosic just four months to make a half-sized reproduction of it in spray paint on the ceiling of his Italian restaurant in downtown Waterloo. This over-the-top place lures visitors in with its lavish theatrics, but the gourmet meals have yet to disappoint.
DON’T MISS
SILOS & SMOKESTACKS NATIONAL HERITAGE AREA
Comprising 37 counties in northeast Iowa, this National Park Service–designated region includes more than 100 sites and attractions that honor the region’s industrial past and storybook farm beauty. Highlights include the scenic bluffs of Effigy Mounds National Monument, the rustic villages of the Amana Colonies and the informative exhibits of the National Mississippi River Museum & Aquarium. Back-road drives abound. Look for the useful Silos & Smokestacks annual guide at hotels and visitor centers or learn more at www.silosandsmokestacks.org.
8Getting There & Away
Burlington Trailways (www.burlingtontrailways.com) runs daily local service buses east to Dubuque ($34, two hours) and west to Des Moines ($37, five hours).
Mt Vernon
POP 4440
In a state blessed with pretty places, Mt Vernon is one of the loveliest. It’s located along the historic Lincoln Hwy – one of the first transcontinental routes across America – and boasts tree-lined streets brimming with antique dealers, art galleries and eclectic little stores.
Big Grove BreweryMODERN AMERICAN$$
(%319-624-2337; www.biggrovebrewery.com; 101 W Main St, Solon; mains $9-28; hkitchen 11am-9pm Tue-Thu & Sun, to 10pm Fri & Sat)
Hits a home run with cliché-busting takes on Iowa comfort food; it’s seasonal, locally sourced and great alongside its home-brewed beers. Located 10 miles south of Mt Vernon in neighboring Solon.
8Information
Mt Vernon Visitors Center (%319-210-9935; www.visitmvl.com; 311 1st St NW; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri) Grab a map here and set off on a self-guided audio tour of historic Mt Vernon.
8Getting There & Away
Mt Vernon is 20 miles north of Iowa City on IA-1. There is no public transportation.
Dubuque
POP 58,300
This historic city, with its 19th-century Victorian homes lining narrow streets between the Mississippi River and seven steep limestone hills, makes a fine base for Great River Road explorations. Take a stroll down the 9-mile path along the waterfront and explore neighborhoods in the midst of urban revitalization, thanks to tax money from gaudy new riverfront casinos.
Don’t miss the gentrified Millwork District immediately north of downtown past 6th St. Its old wood-working factories are now home to great restaurants and nightlife.
1Sights
oNational Mississippi River Museum & AquariumMUSEUM
(%563-557-9545; www.rivermuseum.com; 350 E 3rd St; adult/child $18/13; h9am-6pm Jun-Aug, 10am-5pm Sep-May, closed Mon Nov-Feb; c)
Learn about life (of all sorts) along the length of the Mississippi at this impressive museum, part of a vast riverfront development. Exhibits span steamboating, aquatic life and indigenous Mississippi River dwellers. Interactive exhibits include touch ponds where you can feel a jellyfish, among other critters.
4Sleeping & Eating
Hotel JulienHISTORIC HOTEL$$
(%563-556-4200; www.hoteljuliendubuque.com; 200 Main St; r $110-250; aW)
The historic eight-story Hotel Julien was built in 1915 and was once a refuge for Al Capone. It’s quite spiffy after a lavish renovation and is a real antidote to chains.
Brazen Open KitchenAMERICAN$$
(%563-587-8899; www.brazenopenkitchen.com; 955 Washington St; mains $16-37; h4:30-9pm Tue-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat, 10am-2pm Sun)
The poetic menus at this stylish amber-lit restaurant in the Millwork District are organized like so: roots + soil, flour + water, farm + fish. The resulting seasonal New American cuisine is heavenly. There’s a sizable wine list and inventive cocktails at the long wooden bar.
8Information
Dubuque Visitor Center (%800-798-8844; www.traveldubuque.com; 280 Main St; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat, 10am-3pm Sun) Downtown, Dubuque’s visitor center has information for the entire region and state.
8Getting There & Away
Dubuque is just over three hours west of Chicago via US 20 and I-90. Burlington Trailways (www.burlingtontrailways.com) runs one bus a day west on a meandering route (Waterloo, Cedar Rapids, Ames etc) to Des Moines ($50, seven hours). Another bus goes east to Chicago ($45, 4½ hours).
WORTH A TRIP
CEDAR RAPIDS
A small old industrial city built on meat-packing and eastern European immigration, Cedar Rapids is worth the detour north from I-80. Of course, US 30 is the much more interesting road and it passes right through.
See the studio (%319-366-7503; www.crma.org; 810 2nd Avenue SE; hnoon-4pm Sat & Sun Apr-Dec) F where Grant Wood painted his most famous work, American Gothic, then stroll the revitalized NewBo neighborhood along the Cedar River and enjoy a traditional Czech treat at Sykora Bakery (%319-364-5271; www.facebook.com/sykorabakery; 73 16th Ave SW; snacks from $2; h7am-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-5pm Sun).
Iowa’s Great Lakes
Iowa’s Great Lakes consist of three big, clear blue lakes and a dozen smaller ones. They’ve catered to family holidays for over a century and long balmy nights sitting by the water are a cherished childhood memory for many an Iowan.
Swimming, boating and fishing are the big activities and there’s a sensational amusement park in the town of Arnolds Park, the hub of the action. Travelling across northern Iowa, the lakes come as a surprise as there’s no hint these vast water-filled depressions exist in the corn-covered countryside until you’re almost upon them.
On the downside, the area’s spine, US 71, is a charmless road lined with strip malls, fast food and even some light industry. Get to a bucolic lakeshore and don’t look back.
1Sights
The three main bodies of water that comprise Iowa’s Great Lakes each have different personalities.
Big Spirit Lake is the largest lake (some 5700 acres) and the most genteel. Small parks around its shoreline are popular with young families and those who appreciate time to contemplate the big, placid waters. The village is relaxed and good for strolling, with a handful of appealing cafes, pubs and services. It had various traditional names, which translated roughly as ‘lake of the spirits.’
East Lake Okoboji is long, narrow and unfortunately colon-shaped. This 6-mile-long lake in every way connects the two worlds of the Great Lakes region. In the north it’s the backdrop for the mannered streets of the Spirit Lake community. In the south it joins with its west counterpart in a raucous hub of bars and boats.
West Lake Okoboji is the original holiday lake here. Home to Arnolds Park and a plethora of other amusements, diversions, holiday camps, resorts etc. It’s the most popular lake in Iowa and was originally known as Minnetonka by the Sioux people, which meant ‘great waters.’
oArnolds Park Amusement ParkAMUSEMENT PARK
(%712-332-2183; www.arnoldspark.com; 37 Lake St, Arnolds Park; day-pass from $35; hhours vary, mid-May–early Sep; c)
Dating back to the 1880s, this old-fashioned lakeside amusement park is pure fun. The Legend is the seventh-oldest wooden roller coaster in the world and dates to 1930. Other rides cater to every age and temperament. It’s a carefree place of simple delights. Interestingly, the park is owned by a nonprofit foundation which has embarked on an ambitious restoration program. Already completed are the Wild Mouse metal roller coaster and the Funhouse Slide, among others.
oGull Point State ParkSTATE PARK
(%712-337-3211; www.iowadnr.gov; 1500 Harpen St, Milford; c) F
The best state park locally is on the west side of West Okoboji Lake. It has a beach, lovely lakeside picnic areas and an excellent 1.3-mile long nature trail.
8Information
Visitor Center (%712-322-6550; www.vacationokoboji.com; 243 W Broadway, Arnolds Park; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri) volunteers in Arnolds Park can answer any question about the Great Lakes and offer info for the region and the entire state. The center is in the same complex as the Maritime Museum (%712-332-2183; www.arnoldspark.com; hhours vary, mid-May–early Sep).
8Getting There & Away
There is no public transportation in the Great Lake region.
WORTH A TRIP
IOWA’S GREAT RIVER ROAD
Iowa’s Great River Road mostly hugs the Mississippi along the state’s eastern edge. It combines numerous country byways and passes through some beautifully isolated riverfront towns. Meet the route in Iowa’s far northeastern corner at Lansing, an attractive resort town with a grand panorama of three states from the top of Mt Hosmer Park.
Continue south to Effigy Mounds National Monument (%563-873-3491; www.nps.gov/efmo; Hwy 76, Marquette; h9am-5pm Jun-Aug, to 4pm Sep-May) F, where hundreds of mysterious Native American burial mounds lie in bluffs above the Mississippi River. Listen to songbirds as you hike the lush trails.
Neighboring Marquette and McGregor are next up. Both are delightful historic villages whose main drags are worthy of a quick stroll. The latter is the gateway to Pikes Peak State Park (%563-873-2341; www.iowadnr.gov/Places-to-Go/State-Parks; 32264 Pikes Peak Rd, McGregor; campsites from $11-19 May-Sep, $6-14 Oct-Apr) F, a nature reserve at the confluence of the Wisconsin and Mississippi Rivers with 10 intertwined hiking trails and sweeping views from the hilltop campground.
Dip down into Guttenberg, a modern town with a strip of shops and eateries along the riverfront, before entering the regional hub of Dubuque where you can learn about life on the Mississippi at the impressive National Mississippi River Museum & Aquarium. Part of a vast riverfront development, its exhibits span steamboating, aquatic life and the history of the indigenous peoples of the Mississippi River.
Along an especially scenic stretch of the road south of Dubuque you’ll find Bellevue, which lives up to its name with good river views and some verdant, rural scenery. Stop at Potter’s Mill (%563-872-3838; www.pottersmill.net; 300 Potter Dr, Bellevue; mains $10-23; h11am-8pm Sun-Thu, to 9pm Fri & Sat, closed Mon Oct-Apr), an old grain mill where you can chow down on hearty Southern cooking while listening to live jazz and blues music. Further south, Clinton embraces the river with waterfront walkways and Eagle Point Park (%563-243-1260; 3923 N 3rd St, Clinton; hdawn-dusk) F, which has sweeping river views from a 100-foot bluff (and a castle!).
The landscape flattens out from here with wide-open vistas as you enter the bustling streets of Davenport, the largest of the so-called Quad Cities. Further south, Burlington has an excellent welcome center and is good for a quick break before you finish up the journey past Old Fort Madison, a reconstruction of the Midwest’s oldest American military garrison on the upper Mississippi, in Keokuk.
Get more info on the route at www.iowagreatriverroad.com.