Amboise • Chinon • Beaucoup de Châteaux
Loire Valley Châteaux at a Glance
Eating in and near Chenonceaux
Sleeping and Eating in Azay-le-Rideau
Sleeping and Eating near Abbaye Royale de Fontevraud
As it glides gently east to west, officially separating northern from southern France, the Loire River has come to define this popular tourist region. The importance of this river and the valley’s prime location, in the center of the country just south of Paris, have made the Loire a strategic hot potato for more than a thousand years. The Loire was the high-water mark for the Moors as they pushed into Europe from Morocco. Today, this region is still the dividing line for the country—for example, weather forecasters say, “north of the Loire...and south of the Loire...”
Because of its history, this region is home to more than a thousand castles and palaces of all shapes and sizes. When a “valley address” became a must-have among 16th-century hunting-crazy royalty, rich Renaissance palaces replaced outdated medieval castles. Hundreds of these castles and palaces are open to visitors, and it’s castles that you’re here to see (you’ll find better villages and cities elsewhere). Old-time aristocratic château-owners, struggling with the cost of upkeep, enjoy financial assistance from the government if they open their mansions to the public.
Today’s Loire Valley is carpeted with fertile fields, crisscrossed by rivers, and laced with rolling hills. It’s one of France’s most important agricultural regions. It’s also under some development pressure, thanks to TGV bullet trains that link it to Paris in well under two hours, and cheap flights to England that make it a prime second-home spot for many Brits, including Sir Mick Jagger.
This is a big, unwieldy region, so I’ve divided it into two halves, each centered around a good, manageable town—Amboise and Chinon—to use as a home base for exploring nearby châteaux. Which home base should you choose? That will depend mainly on which châteaux you’d like to visit; for ideas, scan my descriptions in the “Loire Valley Châteaux at a Glance” sidebar on here. For many travelers, Amboise is the better choice.
Châteaux-holics and gardeners can stay longer and sleep in both towns. Amboise is east of the big city of Tours, and Chinon lies west of Tours. The drive from Amboise to Chinon takes about 1.5 hours; if you sleep on one side of Tours and intend to visit castles on the other side, you’re looking at a long round-trip drive—certainly doable, but not my idea of good travel. Instead, sleep in or near the town nearest the castles you plan to visit, and avoid crossing traffic-laden Tours. The A-85 autoroute (toll) is the quickest way to link Amboise with châteaux near Chinon. Thanks to this uncrowded freeway, sleepy Azay-le-Rideau is another good base for destinations west of Tours; it also works as a base for sights on both sides of Tours.
Amboise and, to a lesser extent, Blois or Chenonceaux, make the best home bases for first-timers. Amboise and Blois have handy car or bus/minivan access to these important châteaux: elegant Chenonceau, urban Blois, epic Chambord, canine-crazy Cheverny, royal Amboise, and garden-showy Chaumont-sur-Loire. Amboise has good minivan service to area sights, and drivers appreciate its small scale and easy parking; Blois has better train connections from Paris and better low-cost transportation options to nearby sights in high season. The town of Chenonceaux works for drivers and hardy bicyclists. Most visitors choose Amboise for its just-right size and more varied tourist appeal.
Chinon, Azay-le-Rideau, and their nearby châteaux don’t feel as touristy; these towns appeal to gardeners and road-less-traveled types. The key châteaux in this area include historic Chinon, fairy-tale Azay-le-Rideau, fortress-like Langeais, and garden-lush Villandry. Lesser sights include the châteaux at Rivau and Ussé, plus the Abbaye Royale de Fontevraud. Chinon and Azay-le-Rideau are good for cyclists, with convenient rental shops, decent access to bike paths, and interesting destinations within pedaling distance.
Loches is a more remote home-base option for drivers wanting to sleep away from the tourist fray.
Château Hotels: If ever you wanted to sleep in a castle surrounded by a forest, the Loire Valley is the place—you have several choices in all price ranges. However, you’ll need a car to get to most of these places. Most of my “castle hotel” recommendations are within 15 minutes of Amboise (see here).
With frequent, convenient trains to Paris and a few direct runs right to Charles de Gaulle Airport, the Loire can be a good first or last stop on your French odyssey (see “Amboise Connections,” later). But try to avoid a château blitz; this region—“the garden of France”—is a great place to linger.
Two full days are sufficient to sample the best châteaux. Don’t go overboard. Two châteaux, possibly three, are the recommended maximum. Famous châteaux are least crowded early and late in the day. Most open at about 9:00 and close between 18:00 and 19:00.
A day trip from Paris to the Loire is doable. Several shuttle bus and minivan tours make getting to the main châteaux a breeze (see “By Shuttle Bus/Van or Minivan Tour,” later).
Drivers: For the single best day in the Loire, consider this plan: Sleep in or near Amboise, and in the morning, visit my favorite château—graceful Chenonceau—arriving early (by 9:00) when crowds are small. Spend midday at monumental Chambord, a 30-minute drive from Chenonceau. And if there’s time, stop at Cheverny (where the hunting dogs are fed at 17:00; off-season sporadically at 15:00) on the way back to your hotel. Allow time to visit Amboise’s sights the next morning. With a second full day, you could move to Chinon, visiting Villandry and its gardens en route, then devote your afternoon to the château and old town in Chinon.
Try to see one château on your drive in (for example, if arriving from the north, visit Chambord, Cheverny, or Blois; if coming from the west or the south, see Azay-le-Rideau or Villandry). If you’re coming from Burgundy, don’t miss the one-of-a-kind Château de Guédelon (see here in the Burgundy chapter). If you’re driving to the Dordogne from the Loire, the A-20 autoroute via Limoges (near Oradour-sur-Glane) is fastest and toll-free until Brive-la-Gaillarde.
The best map of the area is Michelin #518, covering all the sights described in this chapter (the TI’s free map of Touraine, the area surrounding Tours, is also good).
Without a Car and on a Budget: Sleep in Amboise. The next morning, rent a bike or catch the public bus, shuttle van (high season only), or train from Amboise to the town of Chenonceaux, tour Chenonceau (a must-see château), then return to Amboise in the afternoon to enjoy its château and Leonardo’s last stand at Clos-Lucé. With a second day, take the short (and cheap) train ride to Blois, and grab a shuttle bus (runs April-Oct) to massive Chambord; try to budget time to also visit Blois before returning to Amboise. Other second-day options are the châteaux of Cheverny or Chaumont. (For more train and bus specifics, see “Amboise Connections” on here and “Blois Connections” on here.) With more time, those connecting Paris with Amboise or Chinon can lay over in Blois en route (free lockers available at Blois château for small and midsize bags with paid admission).
Budget travelers based in Chinon can bike to Langeais, Ussé, and Villandry, and/or take the train to Azay-le-Rideau and Langeais (but keep in mind that bike and train trips are long and not a good option for most).
Without a Car but Not Broke (Yet): Take a minivan excursion directly from Amboise or Tours (described in the next section).
Traveling by car is the easiest way to get around, and day rentals are reasonable. Trains, buses, minivan tours, bikes, or taxis help nondrivers reach the well-known châteaux. But even the less-famous châteaux are reachable without a car: Take a taxi, arrange a custom minivan excursion (affordable for small groups), or ride a bike (great option for those with time and stamina).
You can rent a car most easily at the St-Pierre-des-Corps TGV station just outside Tours; rentals are also available in Amboise (see here). I’ve listed specific driving instructions for each destination covered in this chapter. Parking is free at all châteaux except Chambord.
With easy access from Amboise and Chinon, the big city of Tours is the transport hub for travelers bent on using trains or buses to explore the Loire (but it has little else to offer visitors—I wouldn’t sleep there). Tours has two important train stations and a major bus station (with service to several châteaux). The main train station is Tours SNCF, and the smaller, suburban TGV station (located between Tours and Amboise) is St-Pierre-des-Corps. Check schedules carefully, as service is sparse on some lines. The châteaux of Amboise, Blois, Chenonceau, Chaumont (via the town of Onzain plus a long walk), Langeais, Chinon, and Azay-le-Rideau all have train and/or bus service from Tours’ main SNCF station; Amboise, Blois, Chenonceau, and Chinon are also served from the St-Pierre-des-Corps station. Look under each sight for specifics, and seriously consider a minivan excursion (described next).
Which châteaux should you visit—and why? Here’s a quick summary. Local TIs sell bundled tickets for several châteaux that save you money and time in ticket lines (see here).
▲▲▲Chenonceau For sheer elegance arching over the Cher River, and for its lovely gardens. Hours: Daily mid-March-mid-Sept 9:00-19:30, July-Aug until 20:00, closes earlier off-season. See here.
▲▲Blois For its urban setting, beautiful courtyard, and fun sound-and-light show. Hours: Daily July-Aug 9:00-19:00, April-June and Sept 9:00-18:30, Oct 9:00-18:00, Nov-March 9:00-12:30 & 14:30-17:30. See here.
▲▲▲Chambord For its epic grandeur (440 rooms), fun rooftop views, and evocative setting surrounded by a forest. Hours: Daily April-Sept 9:00-18:00, Oct-March 9:00-17:00. See here.
▲▲Cheverny For its intimate feel, lavishly furnished rooms, and daily feeding of the hunting dogs. Hours: Daily April-Oct 9:15-18:30, Nov-March 10:00-17:00. See here.
▲▲Chaumont-sur-Loire For its imposing setting over the Loire River, historic connections to America, and impressive Festival of the Gardens. Hours: Daily July-Aug 10:00-19:00, April-June and Sept 10:00-18:30, Oct 10:00-18:00, Nov-March 10:00-17:00. See here.
Chenonceau
Chambord
▲Amboise For terrific views over Amboise and Leonardo da Vinci memories. Hours: Daily April-Oct 9:00-18:00, July-Aug until 19:00, shorter hours off-season. See here.
▲Clos-Lucé (in Amboise) For a chance to see Leonardo da Vinci’s final home, and to stroll through gardens decorated with models of his creations. Hours: Daily Feb-Oct 9:00-19:00, July-Aug until 20:00; shorter hours off-season. See here.
▲▲Azay-le-Rideau For its fairy-tale facade and setting on a romantic reflecting pond, and for its beautifully furnished rooms (under renovation until 2018). Hours: Daily July-Aug 9:30-19:00, April-June and Sept-Oct 9:30-18:00, Nov-March 10:00-17:15. See here.
▲▲Villandry For the best gardens in the Loire Valley—and possibly all of France. Hours: Daily April-Sept 9:00-19:00, March and Oct 9:00-18:00, Nov-Feb 9:00-17:00. See here.
▲Chinon For its Joan of Arc history. Hours: Daily March-Oct 9:30-18:00, May-Aug until 19:00; Nov-Feb 9:30-17:00. See here.
▲Langeais For its fortress-like setting above an appealing little village and its evocative 15th- and 16th-century rooms. Hours: Daily July-Aug 9:00-19:00, April-June and Sept-mid-Nov 9:30-18:30, mid-Nov-March 10:00-17:00. See here.
Chaumont-sur-Loire
Azay-le-Rideau
Shuttle services and minivan tours offer affordable transportation to many of the valley’s châteaux. Shuttles connect Amboise, Tours, or Blois with key châteaux several times a day (€4-16), and minivan tours combine several châteaux into a painless day tour (€23-37/person for scheduled half-day itineraries from Amboise or Tours, €55 for all day; figure €230 for custom groups of up to 7 for 4 hours, €400 for 8 hours). Most of these services start from TIs (who can book them for you) and can save you time (in line) and money (on admissions) when you purchase your château ticket at a discounted group rate from the driver.
By Shuttle Bus: In high season, a handy excursion bus departs from the train station in Blois (an easy train ride from Amboise and a good place to bed down) and runs a loop route connecting Blois, Chambord, Cheverny, and (skippable) Beauregard, allowing visits to the châteaux with your pick of return times (see “Blois Connections,” here). Public buses also connect Tours, Amboise, and Chenonceaux (see “Amboise Connections,” here).
By Shuttle Van: Quart de Tours runs a high-season-only shuttle service between Amboise and the Château de Chenonceau. Touraine Evasion runs a similar shuttle linking Amboise with Chambord and Chenonceau (see “Amboise Connections,” here).
By Minivan Tour: Tour operators Acco-Dispo, Quart de Tours, and Loire Valley Tours offer half- and full-day itineraries from Amboise and/or Tours that hit all the main châteaux (see “Amboise Connections,” here).
Minivan excursions also leave from the Tours TI office to many châteaux; some include wine tasting (book online at www.tours-tourisme.fr). The TI is right outside the Tours SNCF train station (78 Rue de Bernard Palissy, tel. 02 47 70 37 37), easy connections from Amboise, Blois, or Chinon; see “By Train,” earlier).
Taxi excursions can be affordable when split among several people, especially from the Blois train station to nearby châteaux, or from Amboise to Chenonceau. For details, see “Blois Connections,” here, and “Amboise Connections,” here.
Cycling options are endless in the Loire, where the elevation gain is generally manageable. (However, if you have only a day or two, rent a car or stick to the châteaux easily reached by buses and minivans.) Amboise, Chenonceaux, Blois, Azay-le-Rideau, and Chinon all make good biking bases and have rental options (ask at the TI in each city for bike rental shops). A network of nearly 200 miles of bike paths and well-signed country lanes connect many châteaux near Amboise. Pick up the free bike-path map at any TI, buy the more detailed map available at TIs, or study the route options at www.cycling-loire.com. (I also list several accommodations with easy access to these bike paths.)
About five miles from Chinon, a 30-mile bike path runs along the Loire River, passing by Ussé and Langeais. It meets the Cher River at Villandry and continues along the Cher to Tours and beyond. To follow this route, pick up the La Loire à Vélo brochure at any area TI.
Détours de Loire can help you plan your bike route and will deliver rental bikes to most places in the Loire for reasonable rates. They have a full range of bikes from kid-size to tandems, and will shuttle luggage to your next stop if you reserve ahead. They have shops in Amboise, Blois, and Tours and allow one-way rentals between these and their partner shops (about €12/bike, www.locationdevelos.com).
Fabrice Maret is an expert in all things Loire and a great teacher. He lives in Blois but can meet you in Amboise to give an excellent walking tour of the city and its sights, or he’ll guide you around the area’s châteaux using your rental car (€260/day plus transportation from Blois, tel. 02 54 70 19 59, www.chateauxloire.com, info@chateauxloire.com). Another capable guide is Charlotte Coignard; she lives in Tours but can meet you anywhere (mobile 06 34 27 91 94, charlotte.coignard@gmail.com).
Many of the major châteaux now have free apps that reproduce their rentable audioguides—check château websites for info. The Amboise and Blois TIs also offer free city guide apps. Download these apps before you leave home to save time and money when you get here.
Here in “the garden of France,” locally produced food is delicious. Look for seasonal vegetables, such as white and green asparagus, and champignons de Paris—mushrooms grown in local caves, not in the capital. Around Chinon, pears and apples are preserved tapées (dried and beaten flat for easier storage), rehydrated in alcohol, and served in tasty recipes. Loire Valley rivers yield fresh trout (truite), shad (alose), and smelt (éperlan), which are often served fried (friture). Various dishes highlight rillons, big chunks of cooked pork, while rillettes, a stringy pile of rillons, make for a cheap, mouthwatering sandwich spread (add a baby pickle, called a cornichon).
Locally raised pork is a staple, but don’t be surprised to see steak, snails, confit de canard (a Dordogne duck specialty), and seafood on menus—the Loire borrows much from neighboring regions. The area’s wonderful goat cheeses include Crottin de Chavignol (crottin means horse dung, which is what this cheese, when aged, resembles), Saint-Maure de Touraine (soft and creamy), and Selles-sur-Cher (mild). For dessert, try a delicious tarte tatin (upside-down caramel-apple tart). Regional pastries include sablés (shortbread cookies) from Sablé-sur-Sarthe.
Remember, restaurants serve food only during lunch (11:30-14:00) and dinner (19:00-21:00, later in bigger cities); bigger cafés offer eats throughout the day.
Loire wines are overlooked, and that’s a shame—there is gold in them thar grapes. The Loire is France’s third-largest producer of wine and grows the greatest variety of any region. Four main grapes are grown in the Loire: two reds, gamay and cabernet franc, and two whites, sauvignon blanc and chenin blanc.
The Loire is divided into four subareas, and the name of a wine (its appellation) generally refers to where its grapes were grown. The Touraine subarea encompasses the wines of Chinon and Amboise. Using 100 percent cabernet franc grapes, growers in Chinon and Bourgeuil are the main (and best) producers of reds. Thanks to soil variation and climate differences year in and out, wines made from a single grape have a remarkable range in taste. The best and most expensive white wines are the Sancerres, made on the less-touristed eastern edge of the Loire. Less expensive, but still tasty, are Touraine Sauvignons and the sweeter Vouvray, whose grapes are grown near Amboise. Vouvray is also famous for its light and refreshing sparkling wines (called vins pétillants)—locals will tell you the only proper way to begin any meal in this region is with a glass of it, and I can’t disagree (try the rosé pétillant for a fresh sensation). A dry rosé is popular in the Loire in the summer and can be made from a variety of grapes.
You’ll pass scattered vineyards as you travel between châteaux, though there’s no scenic wine road to speak of (the closest thing is around Bourgueil). Remember that it’s best to call ahead before visiting a winery.
Straddling the widest stretch of the Loire River, Amboise is an inviting town with a pleasing old quarter below its hilltop château. A castle has overlooked the Loire from Amboise since Roman times. Leonardo da Vinci retired here...just one more of his many brilliant ideas.
As the royal residence of François I (r. 1515-1547), Amboise wielded far more importance than you’d imagine from a lazy walk through its pleasant, pedestrian-only commercial zone. In fact, its residents are pretty conservative, giving the town an attitude—as if no one told them they’re no longer the second capital of France. The locals keep their wealth to themselves; consequently, many grand mansions hide behind nondescript facades.
With or without a car, Amboise is an ideal small-town home base for exploring the best of château country.
Amboise (pop. 14,000) covers ground on both sides of the Loire, with the “Golden Island” (Ile d’Or) in the middle. The train station is on the north side of the Loire, but nearly everything else is on the south (château) side, including the TI. Pedestrian-friendly Rue Nationale parallels the river a few blocks inland and leads from the base of Château d’Amboise through the town center and past the clock tower—once part of the town wall—to the Romanesque Church of St- Denis.
The information-packed TI is on Quai du Général de Gaulle (April-Oct Mon-Sat 10:00-18:00, Sun 10:00-12:30; Nov-March Mon-Sat 10:00-12:30 & 14:00-17:00, closed Sun; tel. 02 47 57 09 28, www.amboise-valdeloire.com). Pick up the brochures with self-guided walking tours in and around the city, download their free city guide app, and consider purchasing tickets to key area châteaux (saving time in ticket lines—explained under “Helpful Hints,” later). Ask about sound-and-light shows in the region (generally summers only). The TI stores bags (€2.50 each), books local guides, and can reserve a room for you in a hotel or chambres d’hôte (€3 fee). They can also help organize tours to the châteaux with a shuttle bus or minivan service.
By Train: Amboise’s train station is birds-chirping peaceful. You can’t store bags here, but you can leave them at the TI or at some châteaux (see “Baggage Storage,” later). Turn left out of the main station (you may have to cross under the tracks first), make a quick right, and walk down Rue Jules Ferry five minutes to the end, then turn right and cross the long bridge leading over the Loire River to the city center. It’s a €7 taxi ride from the station to central Amboise, but taxis seldom wait at the station (see “Helpful Hints” for phone numbers).
By Car: Drivers set their sights on the flag-festooned château that caps the hill. Most recommended accommodations and restaurants either have or can help you locate parking (it’s free in the big lot along the river).
Save Time and Money: The TI sells tickets in bundles of two or more to sights and châteaux around Amboise and Chinon, which saves on entry fees—and, more important, time spent in line. You can also get discounted tickets if you take a minivan tour (see “Getting Around the Loire Valley” on here).
Market Days: Open-air markets are held on Friday (smaller but more local; food only) and Sunday (the big one) in the parking lot behind the TI on the river (both 8:30-13:00).
Regional Products: Galland, at 29 Rue Nationale, sells fine food and wine products from the Loire (daily 9:30-19:00).
Internet Access: The TI allows 10 minutes of free Wi-Fi and has a pay public computer terminal. They can also tell you where to find Wi-Fi in Amboise.
Bookstore: Maison de la Presse has a small selection of English novels and a big selection of maps and English guidebooks such as Michelin’s Green Guide Châteaux of the Loire; they also sell English translations of bike-route books (open Mon-Sat 8:00-19:00, Sun 9:30-12:30, across from the TI at 5 Quai du Général de Gaulle).
Baggage Storage: Besides the Amboise TI, which stores bags for a fee (see earlier), most châteaux offer free storage if you’ve paid admission.
Laundry: The nearest launderette is at Supermarket LeClerc, a half-mile from the TI toward Tours on D-751.
Supermarket: Carrefour City is near the TI (Mon-Sat 7:00-22:00, Sun 9:00-13:00), though the shops on pedestrian-only Rue Nationale are infinitely more pleasing.
Bike Rental: You can rent a bike (leave your passport or a photocopy) at any of these reliable places: Détours de Loire (allows one-way trips to any of its partner shops May-Sept, in round building across from TI on Quai du Général de Gaulle, tel. 02 47 30 00 55), Locacycle (daily, full-day rentals can be returned the next morning, 2 Rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau, tel. 02 47 57 00 28), or Cycles le Duc (good bikes, closed Sun-Mon, 5 Rue Joyeuse, tel. 02 47 57 00 17).
Taxi: There is no taxi station in Amboise, so you must call for one. Try 02 47 57 13 53, 06 12 92 70 46, 02 47 57 30 39, or 06 88 02 44 10 (allow €27 to Chenonceaux, €39 in the evening or on Sun).
Car Rental: It’s easiest to rent cars at the St-Pierre-des-Corps train station (TGV service from Paris), a 15-minute drive from Amboise. On the outskirts of Amboise, Désiré Automobile rents cars (roughly €55/day for a small car with 100 kilometers/62 miles free, requires credit card for €600 deposit; closed Sun, about a mile downriver from the TI at 105 Avenue de Tours, by Renault garage, tel. 02 47 57 17 92, renault-amboise@orange.fr). Pricier Europcar is outside Amboise on Route de Chenonceaux at the Total gas station (about €70/day for a small car, tel. 02 47 57 07 64, reservation tel. 02 47 85 85 85, www.europcar.com). Figure €7 for a taxi from Amboise to either place.
Local Guides: Fabrice Maret and Charlotte Coignard both enjoy teaching about the cities and castles of the Loire region. They’ll meet you at your hotel or the château of your choice; for details, see here.
Chocolate Fantasy: A tasty and historic stop for chocoholics is Bigot Pâtisserie & Chocolatier. Say bonjour to adorable owner Christiane, and try their specialty, Puits d’Amour—“Well of Love” (good coffee too, see “Eating in Amboise,” later).
Picnic Supplies: Stop by La Table de Montebello for cheese, antipasti, and other Italian delights to eat there or take away for a riverfront picnic (closed Mon, 98 Rue Nationale, tel. 02 47 23 26 45).
(See “Amboise” map, here.)
This short self-guided walk starts at the banks of the Loire River, winds past the old church of St-Denis, and meanders through the heart of town to a fine little city museum. You’ll end near the entrance to Château Royal d’Amboise and Leonardo’s house. Use the map on the previous page to orient yourself.
• Climb to the top of the embankment overlooking the river across from the TI.
Amboise Riverbank: Survey the town, its island, bridge, and castle. If you have a passion for anything French—philosophy, history, food, wine—you’ll feel it here, along the Loire. This river, the longest in the country and the natural boundary between northern and southern France, is the last “untamed” river in the country (there are no dams or mechanisms to control periodic flooding). The region’s châteaux line up along the Loire and its tributaries, because before trains and trucks, stones for big buildings were best shipped by boat. You may see a few of the traditional flat-bottomed Loire boats moored here. The bridge spanning the river isn’t just any bridge. It marks a strategic river crossing and a longtime political border. That’s why the first Amboise castle was built here. In the 15th century, this was one of the biggest forts in France.
The half-mile-long “Golden Island” (Ile d’Or) is the only island in the Loire substantial enough to withstand flooding and to have permanent buildings (including a soccer stadium, hostel, and 13th-century church). It was important historically as the place where northern and southern France came together. Truces were made here.
• Walk downstream paralleling the busy street, Quai du Général Charles de Gaulle, and cross it when you come to the riverfront parking lot with trees and a gazebo. Walk up Avenue des Martyrs de la Résistance (the post office—La Poste—is on the corner) and turn right at Place St-Denis to find the old church standing proudly on a bluff to the right.
Church of St. Denis (Eglise St-Denis): Ever since ancient Romans erected a Temple of Mars here, this has been a place of worship. According to legend, God sent a bolt of lightning that knocked down the statue of Mars, and Christians took over the spot. The current Romanesque church dates from the 12th century. A cute little statue of St. Denis (above the round arch) greets you as you step in. The delightful carvings capping the columns inside date from Romanesque times. The lovely (but poorly lit) pastel-painted Deposition to the right of the choir is restored to its 16th-century brilliance. The medieval stained glass in the windows, likely destroyed in the French Revolution, was replaced with 19th-century glass.
From the steps of the church, look out to the hill-capping Amboise château. For a thousand years, it’s been God on this hill and the king on that one. It’s interesting to ponder how, throughout French history, the king’s power generally trumped the Church’s, and how the Church and the king worked to keep people down—setting the stage for the French Revolution.
• Retrace your steps down from the church and across Place St-Denis, go past Amboise’s lone cinema, continue walking straight, and follow Rue Nationale through the heart of town toward the castle.
Rue Nationale: In France, districts around any castle or church officially classified as historic are preserved. The broad, pedestrianized Rue Nationale, with its narrow intersecting lanes, survives from the 15th century. At that time, when the town spread at the foot of the king’s castle, this was the “Champs-Elysées” of Amboise. Supporting the king and his huge entourage was a serious industry. The French king spilled money wherever he stayed.
As you walk along this spine of the town, spot surviving bits of rustic medieval oak in the half-timbered buildings. The homes of wealthy merchants rose from the chaos of this street. Side lanes can be more candid—they often show what’s hidden behind modern facades.
Stop when you reach the impressive clock tower (Tour de l’Horloge), built into part of the 15th-century town wall. This was once a fortified gate, opening onto the road to the city of Tours. Imagine the hefty wood-and-iron portcullis (fortified door) that dropped from above.
• At the intersection with Rue François I (where you’ll be tempted by the Bigot chocolate shop—see “Helpful Hints,” earlier), turn left a couple of steps to the...
City Hall Museum (Musée de l’Hôtel de Ville): This free museum is worth a quick peek for its romantic interior, town paintings, and historic etchings (Wed-Mon 10:00-12:30 & 14:00-18:00, closed Tue and off-season). In the room dedicated to Leonardo da Vinci, find his busts and the gripping deathbed painting of him with caring King François I at his side. In the Salle des Rois (Kings’ Room), find portraits of Charles VIII (who coldcocked himself at Amboise’s castle; more on this later) and other kings who called Amboise home; I like to admire their distinct noses.
Upstairs, in the still-functioning city assembly hall (last room), notice how the photo of the current president faces the lady of the Republic. (According to locals, her features change with the taste of the generation, and the bust of France’s Lady Liberty is often modeled on famous supermodels of the day.)
• Your walk ends here, but you can easily continue on to the nearby Château Royal d’Amboise (and beyond that, to Leonardo’s last residence): Retrace your steps along Rue François I to Place Michel Debré, at the base of the château. Here, at one of the most touristy spots in the Loire, tourism’s importance to the local economy is palpable. Notice the fat, round 15th-century fortified tower, whose interior ramp was built for galloping horses to spiral up to castle level. But to get to the castle without a horse, you’ll have to walk up the long ramp.
This historic heap, built mostly in the late 15th century, became the favored royal residence in the Loire under Charles VIII. Charles is famous for accidentally killing himself by walking into a door lintel on his way to a tennis match (seriously). Later, more careful occupants include Louis XII (who moved the royal court to Blois) and François I (who physically brought the Renaissance here in 1516, in the person of Leonardo da Vinci).
Cost and Hours: €11, daily April-Oct 9:00-18:00, July-Aug until 19:00, shorter hours off-season, unnecessary audioguide-€4 (kid’s version available), Place Michel Debré, tel. 02 47 57 00 98, www.chateau-amboise.com.
Visiting the Château: After climbing the long ramp to the ticket booth and picking up the free and well-done English brochure, your first stop is the petite chapel where Leonardo da Vinci is supposedly buried. This flamboyant little Gothic chapel is where the king began and ended each day in prayer. It comes with two fireplaces “to comfort the king” and two plaques “evoking the final resting place” of Leonardo (one in French, the other in Italian). Where he’s actually buried, no one seems to know. Look up at the ceiling to appreciate the lacy design.
Enter the castle rooms across from Leonardo’s chapel. The three-floor route takes you chronologically from Gothic-style rooms to those from the early Renaissance and on to the 19th century. The first room, Salle des Gardes, shows the château’s original, much larger size; drawings in the next room give you a better feel for its original look. Some wings added in the 15th and 16th centuries have disappeared. (The little chapel you just saw was once part of the bigger complex.)
You’ll pass council chambers where the king would meet with his key staff. King Henry II’s bedroom is livable. The second son of François I, Henry is remembered as the husband of the ambitious and unscrupulous Catherine de’ Medici—and for his tragic death in a jousting tournament.
The rose-colored top-floor rooms are well-furnished from the post-Revolutionary 1800s and demonstrate the continued interest among French nobility in this château. Find the classy portrait of King Louis-Philippe, the last Louis to rule France.
Climb to the top of the Minimes Tower for grand views. From here, the strategic value of this site is clear: The visibility is great, and the river below provided a natural defense. The bulky tower climbs 130 feet in five spirals—designed for a mounted soldier in a hurry.
Exit into the gardens. Each summer, bleachers are set up for sound-and-light spectacles—a faint echo of the extravaganzas Leonardo orchestrated for the court. Modern art decorating the garden reminds visitors of the inquisitive and scientific Renaissance spirit that Leonardo brought to town. The flags are those of France and Brittany—a reminder that, in a sense, modern France was created at the nearby château of Langeais when Charles VIII (who was born here) married Anne of Brittany, adding her domain to the French kingdom.
To exit, spiral down the Heurtault Tower (through the gift shop). As with the castle’s other tower, this was designed to accommodate a soldier on horseback. As you gallop down to the exit, notice the cute little characters and scenes left by 15th-century stone carvers. While they needed to behave when decorating churches and palaces, here they could be a bit racier and more spirited.
Leaving the Château: The turnstile puts you on the road to Château du Clos-Lucé (described next; turn left and hike straight for 10 minutes). Along the way, you’ll pass troglodyte houses—both new and old—carved into the hillside stone (a type called tuffeau, a sedimentary rock). Originally, poor people resided here—the dwellings didn’t require expensive slate roofing, came with natural insulation, and could be dug essentially for free, as builders valued the stone quarried in the process. Today wealthy stone lovers are renovating them into stylish digs worthy of Better Homes and Caves. You can see chimneys high above. Unfortunately, none are open to the public.
In 1516, Leonardo da Vinci packed his bags (and several of his favorite paintings, including the Mona Lisa) and left an imploding Rome for better wine and working conditions in the Loire Valley. He accepted the position of engineer, architect, and painter to France’s Renaissance king, François I. This “House of Light” is the plush palace where Leonardo spent his last three years. (He died on May 2, 1519.) François, only 22 years old, installed the 65-year-old Leonardo here just so he could enjoy his intellectual company.
The house is a kind of fort-château of its own, with a fortified rampart walk and a 16th-century chapel. Two floors of finely decorated rooms are open to the public, but none of the furnishings are original, nor are they particularly compelling (though you can stare face-to-face with a copy of Leonardo’s Mona Lisa). Come to see well-explained models of Leonardo’s inventions, displayed inside the house and out in the huge park.
Leonardo came with disciples who stayed active here, using this house as a kind of workshop and laboratory. The place survived the Revolution because the quick-talking noble who owned it was sympathetic to the cause; he convinced the Revolutionaries that, philosophically, Leonardo would have been on their side.
Cost and Hours: The €14 admission (includes house and park) is worth it for Leonardo fans with two hours to fully appreciate this sight. Skip the garden museum and its €5 supplement. Daily Feb-Oct 9:00-19:00, July-Aug until 20:00; shorter hours off-season, last entry one hour before closing, follow the helpful free English handout, tel. 02 47 57 00 73, www.vinci-closluce.com. A free app in English includes background information and audio tours of the château and grounds.
Getting There: It’s a 10-minute walk uphill from Château Royal d’Amboise, past troglodyte homes (see end of previous listing). If you park in the nearby lot, leave nothing of value visible in your car.
Eating: Several garden cafés, including one just behind the house and others in the park, are reasonably priced and appropriately meditative. For a view over Amboise, choose the terrace crêperie.
Visiting the Château and Gardens: Your visit begins with a tour of Leonardo’s elegant yet livable Renaissance home. This little residence was built in 1450—just within the protective walls of the town—as a guesthouse for the king’s château nearby. Today it re-creates (with Renaissance music) the everyday atmosphere Leonardo enjoyed while he lived here, pursuing his passions to the very end. Find the touching sketch in Leonardo’s bedroom of François I comforting his genius pal on his deathbed.
The basement level is filled with sketches recording the storm patterns of Leonardo’s brain and models of his remarkable inventions (inspired by nature and built according to his notes). Leonardo was fascinated by water. All he lacked was steam power. It’s hard to imagine that this Roman candle of creativity died nearly 500 years ago. Exit into the rose garden, then find another room with 40 small models of his inventions (with handheld English explanations).
Imagine Leonardo’s résumé letter to kings of Europe: “I can help your armies by designing tanks, flying machines, wind-up cars, gear systems, extension ladders, and water pumps.” The French considered him a futurist who never really implemented his visions.
Your visit finishes with a stroll through the whimsical, expansive and kid-friendly park grounds, with life-size models of Leonardo’s inventions (including some that kids can operate), “sound stations” (in English), and translucent replicas of some of his paintings. The models make clear that much of what Leonardo observed and created was based on his intense study of nature.
This is considered one of the best shows of its kind in the area. Although it’s entirely in French, you can buy the English booklet for €5. Volunteer locals from toddlers to pensioners re-create the life of François I with costumes, juggling, impressive light displays, and fireworks. Dress warmly.
Cost and Hours: Bench-€15, chair-€18, family deals, only about 20 performances a year, 1.5-hour show, Wed and Sat July 22:30-24:00, Aug 22:00-23:30, tel. 02 47 57 14 47, www.renaissance-amboise.com. Buy tickets online or from the ticket window on the ramp to the château (opens at 20:30).
This five-acre park on the edge of Amboise (on the route to Chenonceaux) shows the major Loire châteaux in 1:25-scale models, forested with 2,000 bonsai trees and laced together by a model TGV train and river boats. For children, it’s a fun introduction to the real châteaux they’ll be visiting (and there’s a cool toy store). Essential English information is posted throughout the sight.
It’s hard to overstate the importance of the Loire River to France. Its place in history goes back to the very foundation of the country. As if to proclaim its storied past, the Loire is the last major wild river in France, with no dams and no regulation of its flow.
Traditional flat-bottomed boats romantically moored along embankments are a reminder of the age before trains and trucks, when river traffic safely and efficiently transported heavy loads of stone and timber. With prevailing winds sweeping east from the Atlantic, barge tenders raised their sails and headed upriver; on the way back, boats flowed downstream with the current.
With this transportation infrastructure providing (relatively) quick access to Paris and the region’s thick forests—offering plenty of timber, firewood, and hunting terrain—it’s no wonder that castles were built here in the Middle Ages. The first stone fortresses went up here a thousand years ago, and many of the pleasure palaces you see today rose over the ruins of those original defensive keeps.
The Hundred Years’ War—roughly 1336 to 1453—was a desperate time for France. Because of a dynastic dispute, the English had a serious claim to the French throne, and by 1415 they controlled much of the country, including Paris. France was at a low ebb, and its king and court retreated to the Loire Valley to rule what remained of their realm. Chinon was the refuge of the dispirited king, Charles VII. He was famously visited there in 1429 by the charismatic Joan of Arc, who inspired the king to get off his duff and send the English packing.
The French kings continued to live in the Loire region for the next two centuries, having grown comfortable with the château culture of the region. The climate was mild, hunting was good, dreamy rivers made nice reflections, wealthy friends lived in similar luxury nearby, and the location was close enough to Paris—but still far enough away. Charles VII ruled from Chinon, Charles VIII preferred Amboise, Louis XII reigned from Blois, and François I held court in Chambord and Blois.
This was a kind of cultural Golden Age. With peace and stability, there was no need for fortifications. The most famous luxury hunting lodges, masquerading as fortresses, were built during this period—including Chenonceau, Chambord, Chaumont, Amboise, and Azay-le-Rideau. Kings (François I), writers (Rabelais), poets (Ronsard), and artists (Leonardo da Vinci) made the Loire a cultural hub. Many years later, these same châteaux attracted other notables, including Voltaire, Molière, and perhaps Benjamin Franklin.
Because French kings ruled effectively only by being constantly on the move among their subjects, many royal châteaux were used infrequently. The entire court—and its trappings—had to be portable. A castle kept empty and cold 11 months of the year would suddenly become the busy center of attention when the king came to town. As you visit the castles, imagine the royal roadies setting up a kingly room—hanging tapestries, unfolding chairs, wrestling big trunks with handles—in the hours just before the arrival of the royal entourage. The French word for furniture, mobilier, literally means “mobile.”
When touring the châteaux, you’ll notice the impact of Italian culture. From the Renaissance onward, Italian ways were fancy ways. French nobles and court ministers who traveled to Italy returned inspired by the art and architecture they saw. Kings imported Italian artists and architects. It’s no wonder that the ultimate French Renaissance king, François I, invited the ultimate Italian artist, Leonardo da Vinci, to join his court in Amboise. Tastes in food, gardens, artists, and women were all influenced by Italian culture.
Women had a big impact on Loire château life. Big personalities like kings tickled more than one tiara. Louis XV famously decorated the palace of Chenonceau with a painting of the Three Graces—featuring his three favorite mistresses.
Châteaux were generally owned by kings, their ministers, or their mistresses. A high-maintenance and powerful mistress often managed to get her own place even when a king’s romantic interest shifted. In many cases, the king or minister would be away at work or at war for years at a time—leaving home-improvement decisions to the lady of the château, who had unlimited money. That helps explain the emphasis on comfort and the feminine touch you’ll enjoy while touring many of the Loire châteaux.
In 1525, François I moved to his newly built super-palace at Fontainebleau, and political power left the Loire. From then on, châteaux were mostly used as vacation and hunting retreats. They became refuges for kings again during the French Wars of Religion (1562-1598)—a sticky set of squabbles over dynastic control that pitted Protestants (Huguenots) against Catholics. Its conclusion marked the end of an active royal presence on the Loire. With the French Revolution in 1789, symbols of the Old Regime, like the fabulous palaces along the Loire, were ransacked. Fast talking saved some châteaux, especially those whose owners had personal relationships with Revolutionary leaders.
Only in the 1840s did the châteaux of the Loire become appreciated for their historic value. The Loire was the first place where treasures of French heritage were officially recognized and protected by the national government. In the 19th century, Romantic Age writers—such as Victor Hugo and Alexander Dumas—visited and celebrated the châteaux. Aristocrats on the Grand Tour stopped here. The Loire Valley and its historic châteaux found a place in our collective hearts and have been treasured to this day.
You’ll find other kid-oriented attractions at Mini-Châteaux; consider playing a round of minigolf and feeding the fish in the moat (a great way to get rid of that old baguette).
Cost and Hours: Adults-€14, kids-€10.50, daily mid-April-June 10:00-18:30, July-Aug 9:30-18:30, Sept-Oct 10:30-18:00, closed Nov-mid-April, last entry one hour before closing, tel. 02 47 23 44 57, www.decouvrez-levaldeloire.com.
This small cave offers free tastings of cheeses, pâtés, and regional wines from 10 different vintners (daily mid-March-mid-Nov 10:00-19:00, under Château d’Amboise, across from recommended L’Epicerie restaurant, tel. 02 47 57 23 69).
A signed bike route takes you to Chenonceaux (about 8 miles one-way) in about an hour. Leading past Leonardo’s Clos-Lucé, the first two miles are uphill, and the entire ride is on a road with some traffic. Serious cyclists can continue to Chaumont in 1.5 hours, connecting Amboise, Chenonceaux, and Chaumont in an all-day, 37-mile pedal (see “Bike Route” on the map on here). The most appealing pedal from Amboise follows the Loire along a dedicated bike path, though you won’t see any great castles. The village of Lussault-sur-Loire makes an easy destination (2.5 miles one-way), or keep on pedaling to Montlouis, two miles past Lussault.
Paddling under the Château de Chenonceau is a memorable experience. Canoe Company offers canoe rentals on the Loire and Cher rivers (€12-25/person depending on how far you go, mobile 06 70 13 30 61 or 06 37 01 89 92, www.canoe-company.fr).
In the nearby town of Vouvray, 10 miles toward Tours from Amboise, you’ll find wall-to-wall opportunities for wine tasting (but less impressive vineyards than in other parts of France). From Amboise you can take the speedy D-952 there, or joyride on the more appealing D-1 (see map on here). Here are two top choices for testing the local sauce:
The big Cave des Producteurs is a smart place to start. It has an English-speaking staff, English-language tours of the winery, and a good selection from the 33 producers they represent, including wines from other Loire areas (free wine tasting, cellar tour-€2.50, daily July-Aug 9:00-19:00, Sept-June 9:00-12:30 & 14:00-19:00, cellar tours in English at 11:30 and 16:00—call ahead to confirm, 38 La Vallée Coquette in Vouvray, tel. 02 47 52 75 03, www.cavedevouvray.com). It’s just west of Vouvray in Rochecorbon. Go past the smaller Cave des Producteurs outlet you’ll see along D-952 in Vouvray, turn when you see the blue signs to Moncontour, then follow the small brown signs to Cave des Producteurs.
For a more intimate experience, drop by Marc Brédif, where you’ll find a top-quality selection of Vouvray wines, excellent dessert wines, and red wines from Chinon and Bourgueil. You can also tour their impressive 1.2 miles of 10th-century cellars dug into the hillside (free wine tasting, cellar tour-€6, Mon-Sat 10:30-12:00 & 14:30-18:00, Sun 10:30-13:00, tel. 02 47 52 50 07, www.deladoucette.fr—select “Brédif” under “Domaines”). Coming from Amboise, you’ll pass it on D-952 after Vouvray; it’s on the right, after the Moncontour turnoff.
For tips on wine tasting, see “French Wine-Tasting 101” on here.
If you need a zoo fix, this is France’s biggest and most impressive one, with thousands of animals from the land and sea. It’s about 30 minutes southeast of Amboise toward Vierzon—pick up details at the TI (daily from 9:00 to dusk, English audioguides available, tel. 02 54 75 50 00, www.zoobeauval.com).
Amboise is busy in the summer, but there are lots of reasonable hotels and chambres d’hôtes in and around the city; the TI can help with reservations (for a €3 fee).
$$$ Le Manoir les Minimes**** is a good place to experience the refined air of château life in a 17th-century mansion, with antique furniture and precious art objects in the public spaces. Its 15 large, modern rooms work for those seeking luxury digs in Amboise. (Tall folks take note: Top-floor attic rooms have low ceilings.) Several rooms have views of Amboise’s château (standard Db-€139-159, larger Db-€235, suite-€320, 3- to 4-person suites-€555, continental breakfast-€17, air-con, closed late Nov-mid-Dec, three blocks upriver from bridge at 34 Quai Charles Guinot, tel. 02 47 30 40 40, www.manoirlesminimes.com, reservation@manoirlesminimes.com).
$$$ Hôtel le Clos d’Amboise**** is a smart urban refuge opening onto beautiful gardens and a small, heated swimming pool. It offers stay-awhile lounges, a lovely rear terrace, and well-designed traditional rooms with warm colors and carpets (standard Db-€180, bigger Db-€220-240, Db suites-€370, extra person-€20, check website for deals, good buffet breakfast-€15, minifridges, air-con, elevator, sauna, free parking, 27 Rue Rabelais, tel. 02 47 30 10 20, www.leclosamboise.com, infos@leclosamboise.com, helpful Patricia or Pauline are ever-present).
$$$ Le Vieux Manoir*** is an entirely different high-end splurge. American expats Gloria and Bob Belknap have restored this secluded but central one-time convent with an attention to detail that Martha Stewart would envy. The gardens are lovely—as is the atrium-like breakfast room—and its six bedrooms would make an antique collector drool. Eager-to-help Gloria is a one-person tourist office (Db-€155-200, cottages-€240-300, includes superb breakfast, air-con, no room phones or TVs, free parking, 13 Rue Rabelais, tel. 02 47 30 41 27, www.le-vieux-manoir.com, le_vieux_manoir@yahoo.com).
$$$ Hôtel le Vinci Best Western*** delivers modern, pricey-but-reliable comfort a mile from the town center (standard Db-€105-115, superior Db-€120, extra person-€20, breakfast-€13, 12 Avenue Emile Gounin, tel. 02 47 57 10 90, www.vinciloirevalley.com, reservation@vinciloirevalley.com).
$$$ The Villa Concorde hunkers below the castle and rents a broad range of rooms and luxurious apartments (Db-€95-280, 26 Rue de la Concorde, tel. 02 47 50 64 42, www.villaconcorde-amboise-accommodation.com).
$$ Hôtel Bellevue*** is a good midrange bet and centrally located, overlooking the river where the bridge hits the town. The 30 modern rooms are well-appointed, and its stylish bar/bistro, Lounge B, has a good selection of local wines by the glass (standard Db-€75-105, big Db-€120-165, Tb/Qb-€150-180, elevator, 12 Quai Charles Guinot, tel. 02 47 57 02 26, www.hotel-bellevue-amboise.com, contact@hotel-bellevue-amboise.com).
$ Hôtel le Blason**, in a 15th-century, half-timbered building on a busy street, is run by helpful Damien and Bérengère. The basic, tight rooms are clean and come with double-paned windows. There’s air-conditioning on the top floor—but these rooms also have sloped ceilings and low beams (Sb-€53, Db-€68, Tb-€81, Qb-€91, quieter rooms in back and on top floor, secure parking-€3/day, 11 Place Richelieu, tel. 02 47 23 22 41, www.leblason.fr, hotel@leblason.fr).
$ Hôtel le Chaptal** is a plain hotel with small but clean and cheap rooms (Db-€58-69, Tb-€79, Qb-€89, breakfast-€7.50, 11 Rue Chaptal, tel. 02 47 57 14 46, www.hotel-chaptal-amboise.fr, infos@hotel-chaptal-amboise.fr).
The heart of Amboise offers several solid bed-and-breakfast options.
$$$ Au Charme Rabelaisien is a lovely place run by charming Madame Sylvie. Big doors from the street open onto a grand courtyard with manicured gardens, a heated pool, and four sumptuous rooms surrounding it (Sb-€84-92, Db-€149-179, includes breakfast, air-con, private parking, closed Nov-March, 25 Rue Rabelais, tel. 02 47 57 53 84, mobile 06 86 14 10 68, www.au-charme-rabelaisien.com, aucharmerabelaisien@wanadoo.fr).
$$ La Grange Chambres welcomes with an intimate, flowery courtyard and four comfortable rooms, each tastefully restored with modern conveniences and big beds. There’s also a common room with a fridge and tables for do-it-yourself dinners (Db-€90, extra person-€25, includes breakfast, credit card to reserve room but pay in cash only, where Rues Châptal and Rabelais meet at 18 Rue Châptal, tel. 02 47 57 57 22, www.la-grange-amboise.com, lagrange-amboise@orange.fr). Adorable Yveline Savin also rents a small two-room cottage (€590/week, 2- to 3-day stays possible) and speaks fluent franglais.
$ L’Iris des Marais is a budget B&B with three artsy and quaint rooms and a wild garden where you can enjoy a peaceful picnic. The cheaper double room is small, but a good deal (Sb-€50-60, Db-€55-75, connecting rooms Qb-€115, includes breakfast, 14 Quai des Marais, tel. 02 47 30 46 51, www.irisdesmarais.com).
$$ Hôtel la Brèche**, a sleepy place near the station, has 14 good-value rooms and a decent restaurant. Many rooms overlook the peaceful graveled garden, while those on the street are larger and come with some traffic noise; all are tastefully decorated (Sb-€59, Db-€70, Tb-€90, Qb-€99, good breakfast-€10.50, free parking, 15-minute walk from city center and 2-minute walk from station, 26 Rue Jules Ferry, tel. 02 47 57 00 79, www.labreche-amboise.com, info@labreche-amboise.com).
Hostel: $ L’Auberge de Jeunesse (Centre Charles Péguy) is ideally located on the western tip of the “Golden Island,” a 10-minute walk from the train station. Open to people of all ages, and popular with student groups (who can fill the place), it’s friendly and easy on the wallet. There are a handful of double rooms—some with partial views to the château—so book ahead (bunk in dorm room-€17, no surcharge for nonmembers, breakfast-€5, reception open daily 15:00-20:00, no curfew, on Ile d’Or, email is useless—call no more than two weeks ahead to book, tel. 02 47 30 60 90).
The area around Amboise is peppered with good-value accommodations of every shape, size, and price range. This region offers drivers the best chance to experience château life at affordable rates—and my recommendations justify the detour. For locations, see the map on here. Also consider the recommended accommodations in Chenonceaux.
$$$ Château de Pray**** allows you to sleep in a 700-year-old fortified castle with hints of its medieval origins. A few minutes from Amboise, the château’s 19 rooms aren’t big or luxurious, but they come with character and history—and with tubs in most bathrooms. The lounge is small, but the backyard terrace compensates in agreeable weather. A newer annex offers four contemporary rooms (sleeping up to three each), with lofts, terraces, and castle views. A big pool and the restaurant’s vegetable garden lie below the château (small Db in main building-€140-150, bigger Db-€200-265, Db in annex-€170-230, continental breakfast-€17, 3-minute drive upriver from Amboise toward Chaumont on D-751 before the village of Chargé, Rue du Cèdre, tel. 02 47 57 23 67, www.chateaudepray.fr, contact@chateaudepray.fr). The dining room, cut into the hillside rock in the old orangerie, is a relaxing place to splurge...and feel good about it (four-course menus from €57, reservations required).
$$$ At Château de Nazelles Chambres, gentle owners Véronique and Olivier Fructus offer six rooms in a 16th-century hillside manor house that comes with a cliff-sculpted pool, manicured gardens, a guest kitchen (picnics are encouraged), views over Amboise, and a classy living room with billiards. The bedrooms in the main building are traditional, while the rooms cut into the hillside come with private terraces and rock-walled bathrooms. They also rent a very comfortable two-room cottage with living area, kitchen, and private garden (Db-€115-160, Qb-€260, includes breakfast, cottage-€280-310 for up to 4 guests, extra person-€30, 10 percent discount for Rick Steves readers who book directly with hotel in 2016, 16 Rue Tue-La-Soif, Nazelles-Négron, tel. 02 47 30 53 79, www.chateau-nazelles.com, info@chateau-nazelles.com). From D-952, take D-5 into Nazelles, then turn left on D-1 and quickly veer right onto the little lane between the town hall and the post office (La Poste)—don’t rely on GPS.
$$$ Château de Perreux*** is a renovated 18th-century castle with a stony, tony feel. Here, upscale bed-and-breakfast service meets château-hotel ambience with 11 plush and tastefully designed rooms just a few minutes from Amboise. A €40 three-course dinner cooked by a respected chef is available for guests who book ahead (Db-€165-195, suites-€260-295, family rooms-€270-315, breakfast-€12, air-con, elevator, Wi-Fi in library only, parking, on D-1 between Nazelles and Pocé-sur-Cisse; coming from Amboise, turn left at the Château de Perreux sign, 36 Rue de Pocé, tel. 02 47 57 27 47, www.chateaudeperreux.fr, info@chateaudeperreux.fr).
$$$ Château des Arpentis***, a medieval château-hotel centrally located just minutes from Amboise, makes a fun and classy splurge. Flanked by woods and acres of grass, and fronted by a stream and a moat, you’ll come as close as you can to château life during the Loire’s Golden Age. Rooms are big with tasteful decor—and the pool is even bigger. There’s no restaurant, but terrace-table picnics are encouraged. Efficient manager Olivier takes good care of his clients (Db-€170-215, amazing family suites-€355, air-con, elevator, tel. 02 47 23 00 00, www.chateaudesarpentis.com, contact@chateaudesarpentis.com). It’s on D-31 just southeast of Amboise; from the roundabout above the Leclerc Market, follow Autrèche signs, then look for small sign on the right next to tall flagpole.
$$ L’Auberge de Launay, five miles upriver from Amboise, gets positive reviews for its easy driving access to many châteaux, fair prices, and good restaurant (roadside Db-€78, bigger garden-side Db-€91, about 4 miles from Amboise, across the river toward Blois, at 9 Rue de la Rivière in Limeray, tel. 02 47 30 16 82, www.aubergedelaunay.com, info@aubergedelaunay.com). The star of this place is the country-classy restaurant, with menus from €26 (closed Sun except for hotel guests in season).
$$ Le Moulin du Fief Gentil is a lovely 16th-century mill house set on four acres with a backyard pond (fishing possible in summer, dinner picnics anytime, fridge and microwave at your disposal), and the possibility of home-cooked dinners by English-speaking owner Florence (twin Db-€90, bigger Db-€105, 2-room apartment for 2-€140, extra person-€25, includes breakfast, four-course dinner menu with wine-€32—must reserve in advance, cash only, Wi-Fi in mechanical mill room, 3 Rue de Culoison, tel. 02 47 30 32 51, mobile 06 64 82 37 18, www.fiefgentil.com, contact@fiefgentil.com). It’s located on the edge of Bléré, a 15-minute drive from Amboise and 7 minutes from Chenonceaux—from Bléré, follow signs toward Luzillé; it’s on the right.
$$ Hostellerie du Château de L’Isle is a rustic, lost-in-time place on the Cher River wrapped in a lush park with a pond. Located in Civray-de-Touraine, two minutes from Chenonceaux, it offers 12 basic but affordable rooms with laissez-faire management. Rooms in the main building are better (small Db-€55, standard Db-€73, big Db-€88-108, 1 Rue de l’Écluse, tel. 02 47 23 63 60, www.chateau-delisle.com, chateaudelisle@orange.fr). The gazebo-like restaurant, as lovely as a Monet painting, features the owner’s cooking (€26-38 menus, limited choices). From the center of Civray-de-Touraine, follow D-81 toward Tours.
$ La Chevalerie owners Ljubisa and Martine Aleksic rent four simple bargain chambres that are family-friendly, with a swing set, tiny pond, shared kitchens, and connecting rooms (Sb-€40, Db-€55, Tb-€75, includes basic breakfast, cash only, in La Croix-en-Touraine, tel. 02 47 57 83 64, lyoubisa.aleksic@orange.fr, owners speak French and German—but not English). From Amboise, take D-31 toward Bléré, look for the Chambres d’Hôtes sign on your left at about three miles, and then turn left onto C-105.
(See “Amboise” map, here.)
Amboise is filled with inexpensive and forgettable restaurants, but a handful of places are worth your attention. Some offer a good, end-of-meal cheese platter—a rarity in France these days. The epicenter of the city’s dining action is on Place Michel Debré, along Rue Victor Hugo, and across from the château entrance. Troll the places here and find a seat if inspired, or consider my suggestions. For an aperitif or after dinner drink, cross the bridge for the best castle views, and consider a relaxing sip at Le Shaker Cocktail Lounge (daily from 18:00 until later than you’re awake, 3 Quai François Tissard).
(See “Amboise” map, here.)
L’Epicerie, across from the château exit, serves well-presented traditional cuisine at fair prices. Choose a table outdoors facing the château or in the rustically elegant dining room. The snails are scrumptious (€15 weekday menu, €16-25 plats, July-Sept daily, Oct-June closed Mon-Tue, reserve ahead, 46 Place Michel Debré, tel. 02 47 57 08 94, www.lepicerie-amboise.com).
Bigot Pâtisserie’s Salon de Thé serves tasty quiches and omelets along with delightful homemade ice cream and a terrace view. The €15 Renaissance menu includes a savory and a sweet pastry (Mon-Fri 9:00-19:30, Sat-Sun 8:30-20:00, where Place Michel Debré meets Rue Nationale one block off the river, tel. 02 47 57 04 46).
(See “Amboise” map, here.)
La Fourchette is Amboise’s tiny family diner, with simple decor inside and out. Hardworking chef Christine makes everything fresh in her open kitchen, offering a limited selection at good prices. The place is popular, so call ahead—the morning of the same day is fine (€16-27 menus, closed Sun-Mon and Thu evening, on a quiet corner near Rue Nationale at 9 Rue Malebranche, mobile 06 11 78 16 98).
L’Ancrée des Artistes is Amboise’s reliable and central crêperie. It’s a young-at-heart place with music to dine by and easygoing servers (€10 dinner crêpes, €21 three-course crêpe menus, good meat dishes grilled on stones (pierres) and casserole-like cocottes, daily in July-Aug, off-season closed Sun evening-Mon, 35 Rue Nationale, tel. 02 47 23 18 11).
L’Alliance, an “alliance” of two chef-brothers and their wives who serve, is a low-key place offering the kind of fresh, delicious French cuisine normally found in more formal restaurants. Here, you’ll get quality ingredients prepared with an original twist, not fine decor (menus from €31, children’s menu, great but pricey cheese tray, closed Tue and Wed for lunch, reservations recommended, 14 Rue Joyeuse, tel. 02 47 30 52 13, www.restaurant-amboise.com).
Le Lion d’Or has a chef who takes his job seriously and delivers more contemporary cuisine than many of the tourist-oriented eateries in Amboise—the desserts are particularly imaginative. You’ll dine in a mod indoor setting (€22-32 menus, closed Sun evening-Mon, reservations smart, where the bridge meets the town at 7 Quai Charles Guinot, tel. 02 47 57 00 23, www.leliondor-amboise.com).
La Scala is good for inexpensive Italian food with easygoing service and a broad terrace on the noisy main drag (daily, near the TI at 6 Quai du Général de Gaulle, tel. 02 47 23 09 93).
Hôtel la Brèche serves good-value €27-45 menus in their warm, traditional dining room and large garden. Stretch your legs and cross the river to the restaurant, then enjoy floodlit castle views on your walk home (daily; for details, see “Sleeping in Amboise,” earlier).
These options merit the short drive. For an elegant and exquisite castle dining experience (best on a warm evening), consider making the quick drive to Château de Pray—call ahead to reserve (see here). In summer, head to Chenonceaux village for dinner, then enjoy a floodlit walk through the château grounds (try any of the places listed under “Eating in and near Chenonceaux,” later).
By Public Bus to: Chenonceaux (1-2/day, Mon-Sat only—none on Sun, 25 minutes, departs Amboise about 9:45, returns from Chenonceaux at about 12:15, allowing you about 1.5 hours at the château during its most crowded time; in summer, there’s also an afternoon departure at about 15:00 with a return from Chenonceaux at about 17:50; confirm times with the TI; the Amboise stop—called Théâtre—is between Place St-Denis and the river on the west side of Avenue des Martyrs de la Résistance, across from the Théâtre de Beaumarchais; in Chenonceaux, the bus stops across the street from the TI—it’s a 5-minute walk to the château entrance; for more flexibility, consider taking a train back instead—see next page; tel. 02 47 05 30 49, www.tourainefilvert.com—search for “line C”); Tours (8/day Mon-Sat, none on Sun, buses are cheaper than trains).
By Shuttle Van to Chenonceau, Chambord, and Cheverny: Quart de Tours runs two round-trips per day (high season only) between Amboise and Chenonceau (€16 round-trip, €10 one-way, discount for château, 15-minute trip), and excursion trips from Amboise and Tours to various combinations of the top châteaux, including Chambord and Cheverny (half-day-€37/person, allow 5 hours; full-day-€55/person, allow 7 hours). Book ahead, as seats are limited (mobile 06 30 65 52 01, www.chateaux-tours.com). Touraine Evasion runs a van from Amboise that stops at Chambord and Chenonceau; they also have many château options out of Tours (daily in season, none in winter, mobile 06 07 39 13 31, www.tourevasion.com). Check with the Amboise TI for details and pickup locations for both companies.
By Minivan Excursion to Nearby Châteaux: Acco-Dispo runs good half- and all-day English tours from Amboise and Tours to all the major châteaux six days a week (Mon-Sat). Costs vary with the itinerary (half-day-€23/person, full-day-€54/person; free hotel pickups in Amboise, small groups of 2-8 people, mobile 06 82 00 64 51, www.accodispo-tours.com). While on the road, you’ll usually get a fun and enthusiastic running commentary—but you’re on your own at the sights (discounted tickets available from the driver). Reserve a week ahead by email, or two to three days by phone. (Day-trippers from Paris find this service convenient.) Acco-Dispo also runs multiday tours of the Loire and Brittany.
Another minivan option, Loire Valley Tours offers all-day itineraries from Amboise and Tours that are fully guided and include admissions, lunch, and wine tasting (about €145/person, tel. 02 54 33 99 80, www.loire-valley-tours.com).
Most châteaux are too expensive to visit by cab, but a taxi from Amboise to Chenonceau costs about €27 (€39 on Sun and after 19:00, call 02 47 57 13 53, 06 12 92 70 46, 02 47 57 30 39, or 06 88 02 44 10). The meter doesn’t start until you do.
From Amboise by Train to: Chenonceaux (trains are a more frequent, if a slower and pricier, option than the bus; 6/day, most about 1 hour transfer at St-Pierre-des-Corps—check connections to avoid long waits), Blois (14/day, 20 minutes, bus or taxi excursions from there to Chambord and Cheverny—see “Blois Connections,” here), Chaumont (about 14/day, 35 minutes, take 10-minute train to Onzain on the Amboise-Blois route, 25-minute walk—you can see château from station), Tours (12/day, 25 minutes, allows connections to châteaux west of Tours), Chinon (7/day, 1.5-2 hours, transfer in Tours), Azay-le-Rideau (6/day, 1-2 hours, transfer in Tours).
Twenty 15-minute trains link Amboise daily to the regional train hub of St-Pierre-des-Corps (in suburban Tours). There you’ll find reasonable connections to distant points (including the TGV to Paris’ Gare Montparnasse). Transferring in Paris can be the fastest way to reach many French destinations, even in the south.
From Amboise by Train to: Paris (8/day, 1.5 hours to Gare Montparnasse with change to TGV at St-Pierre-des-Corps, requires TGV reservation; 3/day, 1.75 hours direct to Gare d’Austerlitz, no reservation required; more to Gare d’Austerlitz with transfer in Orléans), Sarlat-la-Canéda (3/day, 5-7 hours, change at St-Pierre-des-Corps, then TGV to Libourne, then train through Bordeaux vineyards to Sarlat), Limoges (near Oradour-sur-Glane, 7/day, about 4 hours, change at St-Pierre-des-Corps, then at Vierzon or Poitiers, then tricky bus connection from Limoges to Oradour-sur-Glane—see here), Pontorson/Mont St-Michel (1/day, 5.5 hours with transfers at Nantes and Rennes, longer connections through Paris), Bayeux (2/day, 4.5 hours, transfer at Tours’ St-Pierre-des-Corps and Caen, more with transfer in Paris—arrive at Paris’ Gare d’Austerlitz, then Métro to Gare St. Lazare), Beaune (1/day, 4.5 hours, transfer at St-Pierre-des-Corps, more with additional transfer at Nevers), Bourges (roughly hourly—though fewer midday, 2-3 hours, change at St-Pierre-des-Corps).
This one-road, sleepy village—with a knockout château—makes a good home base for drivers and a workable base for train travelers who don’t mind connections. The château itself, understandably the most popular in the region (arrive early or late in summer), is wonderfully organized for visitors. The gardens are open on summer evenings with mood lighting and music, making the perfect after-dinner activity for those sleeping here. Note that Chenonceaux is the name of the town, and Chenonceau (no “x”) is the name of the château, but they’re pronounced the same: shuh-nohn-soh.
The ignored TI is on the main road from Amboise as you enter the village. It has free Wi-Fi and computer terminals (July-Aug daily 9:00-19:00, closed at lunchtime on Sun; Sept-June Mon-Sat 10:00-12:30 & 14:00-18:30, closed Sun; tel. 02 47 23 94 45).
The bus stops at the TI (the Amboise-bound stop is across the street from the TI, 1-2 buses/day to Amboise, Mon-Sat only, none on Sun, 25 minutes). The unstaffed train station sits between the village and the château.
La Maison des Pages has some bakery items, sandwiches, cold drinks to go, and just enough groceries for a modest picnic (closed Wed, on the main drag between Hostel du Roy and Hôtel la Roseraie).
You can rent bikes at the recommended Relais Chenonceaux hotel (May-Sept daily 9:00-19:00; see “Sleeping in Chenonceaux,” later).
Chenonceau is the toast of the Loire. This 16th-century Renaissance palace arches gracefully over the Cher River and is impeccably maintained, with fresh flower arrangements in the summer and roaring log fires in the winter. Chenonceau is one of the most-visited châteaux in France—so carefully follow my crowd-beating tips (below). Plan on a 15-minute walk from the parking lot to the château. Warning: Don’t leave any valuables visible in your car.
Cost and Hours: €13, kids under 18-€10, daily mid-March-mid-Sept 9:00-19:30, July-Aug until 20:00, closes earlier off-season, tel. 02 47 23 90 07, www.chenonceau.com.
Chenonceau at Night (Promenade Nocturne): On summer nights, floodlights and period music create a romantic after-dinner cap to your Loire day (gardens only). Just stroll over whenever and for as long as you like (€6, daily July-Aug 21:30-23:30).
Crowd-Beating Tips: Spaces are tight inside the château, so smart travelers plan around Chenonceau’s crowds. This place gets slammed in high season, when you should come early (by 9:00) or late (after 17:00). Avoid slow ticket lines by purchasing your ticket in advance (at area TIs) or from the ticket machines at the main entry (just follow the prompts; US credit cards work but instructions in English are hit-and-miss—withdraw your card at the prompt “retirez”).
Tours: The interior is fascinating—but only if you take advantage of the excellent 20-page booklet (included with entry), or rent the wonderful video/audioguide (€4.50, choose either the 45-minute condensed tour or the unhurried 60-minute version). There’s also an audioguide for kids. Pay for the audioguide when buying your ticket (before entering the château grounds), then pick it up just inside the château’s door.
Services: WCs are available by the ticket office and behind the old stables. There’s a free bag check.
Military Hospital Room, Play Area, and Traditional Farm: These sights are best seen after you’ve toured the château and gardens. The military hospital room, located in the château stables, gives an idea of what the Grand Gallery was like when it housed wounded soliders during World War I (effective English explanations). You can taste the owner’s wines in the atmospheric Cave des Dômes below. A kids’ play area lies just past the stables, and a few steps beyond that you can stroll around a traditional farm. Imagine the production needed to sustain the château while making your way through the vegetable and flower gardens toward the exit.
Eating: A reasonable cafeteria is next door to the hospital room. Fancy meals are served in the orangerie behind the stables. There’s a cheap crêperie/sandwich shop at the entrance gate. While picnics are not allowed on the grounds, there are picnic tables in a park near the parking lot.
Boat Trips: In summer, the château has rental rowboats—an idyllic way to savor graceful château views, but not available when the river is low (€7/30 minutes, July-Aug daily 10:00-19:00, 4 people/boat).
Background: Find a riverside view of the château to get oriented. Although earlier châteaux were built for defensive purposes, Chenonceau was the first great pleasure palace. Nicknamed the “château of the ladies,” it housed many famous women over the centuries. The original owner, Thomas Bohier, was away on the king’s business so much that his wife, Katherine Briçonnet, made most of the design decisions during construction of the main château (1513-1521).
In 1547, King Henry II gave the château to his mistress, Diane de Poitiers, who added an arched bridge across the river to access the hunting grounds. She enjoyed her lovely retreat until Henry II died (pierced in a jousting tournament in Paris); his vengeful wife, Catherine de’ Medici, unceremoniously kicked Diane out (and into the château of Chaumont, described on here). Catherine added the three-story structure on Diane’s bridge. She died before completing her vision of a matching château on the far side of the river, but not before turning Chenonceau into the place to see and be seen by the local aristocracy. (Whenever you see a split coat of arms, it belongs to a woman—half her husband’s and half her father’s.)
Self-Guided Tour: Strut like an aristocrat down the tree-canopied path to the château. (There’s a fun plant maze partway up on the left.) You’ll cross three moats and two bridges, and pass an old round tower, which predates the main building. Notice the tower’s fine limestone veneer, added so the top would better fit the new château.
The main château’s original oak door greets you with the coats of arms of the first owners. The knocker is high enough to be used by visitors on horseback. The smaller door within the large one could be for two purposes: to slip in after curfew, or to enter during winter without letting out all the heat.
Once inside, you’ll tour the château in a clockwise direction (turn left upon entering). Take time to appreciate the beautiful brick floor tiles and lavishly decorated ceilings. As you continue, follow your pamphlet or audioguide, and pay attention to these details:
In the guard room, the best-surviving original floor tiles are near the walls—imagine the entire room covered with these tiles. And though the tapestries kept the room cozy, they also functioned to tell news or recent history (to the king’s liking, of course). You’ll see many more tapestries in this château.
The superbly detailed chapel survived the vandalism of the Revolution because the fast-thinking lady of the palace filled it with firewood. Angry masses were supplied with mallets and instructions to smash everything royal or religious. While this room was both, all they saw was stacked wood. The hatch door provided a quick path to the kitchen and an escape boat downstairs. The windows, blown out during World War II, are replacements from the 1950s. Look for graffiti in English left behind by the guards who protected Mary, Queen of Scots (who stayed here after her marriage to King François II).
The centerpiece of the bedroom of Diane de Poitiers is a severe portrait of her rival, Catherine de’ Medici, at 40 years old. After the queen booted out the mistress, she placed her own portrait over the fireplace, but she never used this bedroom. The 16th-century tapestries are among the finest in France. Each one took an average of 60 worker-years to make. Study the complex compositions of the Triumph of Charity (over the bed) and the violent Triumph of Force.
At 200 feet long, the three-story Grand Gallery spans the river. The upper stories house double-decker ballrooms and a small museum. Notice how differently the slate and limestone of the checkered floor wear after 500 years. Imagine grand banquets here. Catherine, a contemporary of Queen Elizabeth I of England, wanted to rule with style. She threw wild parties and employed her ladies to circulate and soak up all the political gossip possible from the well-lubricated Kennedys and Rockefellers of her realm. Parties included grand fireworks displays and mock naval battles on the river. The niches once held statues—Louis XIV took a liking to them, and consequently, they now decorate the palace at Versailles.
In summer and during holidays, you can take a quick walk outside for more good palace views: Cross the bridge, pick up a re-entry ticket, then stroll the other bank of the Cher (across the river from the château). During World War I, the Grand Gallery served as a military hospital, where more than 2,200 soldiers were cared for—picture hundreds of beds lining the gallery. And in World War II, the river you crossed marked the border between the collaborationist Vichy government and Nazi-controlled France. Back then, Chenonceau witnessed many prisoner swaps, and at night, château staff would help resistance fighters and Jews cross in secret. Because the gallery was considered a river crossing, the Germans had their artillery aimed at Chenonceau, ready to destroy the “bridge” to block any Allied advance.
Double back through the gallery to find the sensational state-of-the-art (in the 16th century) kitchen below. It was built near water (to fight the inevitable kitchen fires) and in the basement; because heat rises, it helped heat the palace. Cross the small bridge (watch your head) to find the stove and landing bay for goods to be ferried in and out.
The staircase leading upstairs wowed royal guests. It was the first nonspiral staircase they’d seen...quite a treat in the 16th century. The balcony provides lovely views of the gardens, which originally supplied vegetables and herbs. (Diane built the one to the right; Catherine, the prettier one to your left.) The estate is still full of wild boar and deer—the primary dishes of past centuries. You’ll see more lavish bedrooms on this floor. Small side rooms show fascinating old architectural sketches of the château. The walls, 20 feet thick, were honeycombed with the flues of 224 fireplaces and passages for servants to do their pleasure-providing work unseen. There was no need for plumbing. Servants fetched, carried, and dumped everything pipes do today.
On top of the Grand Gallery is the Medici Gallery, now a minimuseum for the château. Displays in French and English cover the lives of six women who made their mark on Chenonceau (one of them had a young Jean-Jacques Rousseau, who would later become an influential philosopher, as her personal secretary). There’s also a timeline of the top 10 events in the history of the château and a cabinet of curiosities.
To end your visit, escape the hordes by touring the two gardens with their postcard-perfect views of the château. The upstream garden hasn’t changed since Diane de Poitiers first commissioned it in 1547. Designed in the austere Italian style, the forceful jet in its water fountain was revolutionary in its time. The downstream garden of Catherine de’ Medici is more relaxed, with tree roses and lavender gracing its lines in high season.
Hotels are a good value in Chenonceaux, and there’s one for every budget. You’ll find them tous ensemble on Rue du Dr. Bretonneau, all with free and secure parking.
$$$ Auberge du Bon Laboureur**** turns heads with its ivied facade, lush terraces, and, inside, cozy lounges and bars. The staff acts a tad stiff, but if you get past the formal pleasantries, you have four-star rooms at three-star prices (Db-€134-189, suites-€210-310, breakfast-€18, heated pool, air-con, 6 Rue du Dr. Bretonneau, tel. 02 47 23 90 02, www.bonlaboureur.com, laboureur@wanadoo.fr).
$$ Hôtel la Roseraie*** has a flowery terrace, bar, and 22 warmly decorated rooms. Sabine and Jerome run a good show with good prices for three-star comfort, and their big white Alsatian Achilles watches over it all (standard Db-€75-92, big Db-€115-138, Tb-€115-150, buffet breakfast-€12.50, queen- or king-size beds, air-con, pool, closed Dec-Feb, 7 Rue du Dr. Bretonneau, tel. 02 47 23 90 09, www.hotel-chenonceau.com, laroseraie-chenonceaux@orange.fr). The traditional dining room and delightful terrace are ideal for a nice dinner available for guests and nonguests alike who reserve ahead (€29-33 menus, daily May-Sept, closed Tue off-season and mid-Nov-mid-March).
$$ Relais Chenonceaux**, above a restaurant, greets guests with a nice patio and unimaginative, wood-paneled rooms at fair rates. The coziest—and, in summer, hottest—rooms are on the top floor, but watch your head (Db-€80, Tb-€105, Qb-€120, rental bikes available, tel. 02 47 23 98 11, 10 Rue du Dr. Bretonneau, www.chenonceaux.com, info@chenonceaux.com).
$ Hostel du Roy** offers 30 spartan but well-priced rooms, some around a garden courtyard, and a mediocre but cheap restaurant. Hardworking Nathalie runs the place with papa’s help (Db-€50-60, Tb-€70, two-room Qb-€80-120, room for up to five-€130, breakfast-€7.50, 9 Rue du Dr. Bretonneau, tel. 02 47 23 90 17, www.hostelduroy.com, hostelduroy@wanadoo.fr).
Reserve ahead to dine in formal style at the country-elegant and Michelin-starred Auberge du Bon Laboureur (€52 and €85 menus). Hôtel la Roseraie serves good fixed-price meals in a lovely dining room or on a garden terrace (menus from €29, €6 more buys a cheese course, May-Sept daily 19:00-21:00, closed Tue off-season and mid-Nov-mid-March). Relais Chenonceaux dishes up savory crêpes, salads, and plats at fair prices in a pleasant interior or on its terrace (daily). The price is right for the basic cuisine at Hostel du Roy, with a daily €9.50 plat du jour and €13 menus. All of these are listed earlier, under “Sleeping in Chenonceaux.”
For a French treat, book ahead and drive about a mile to Chisseaux and dine at the très traditional Auberge du Cheval Rouge. You’ll enjoy some of the region’s fine cuisine at affordable prices, either inside or on a flower-filled patio (€29-50 menus, closed Mon-Tue, 30 Rue Nationale, Chisseaux, tel. 02 47 23 86 67, www.auberge-duchevalrouge.com).
From Chenonceaux by Train to: Tours (10/day, 30 minutes), with connections to Chinon, Azay-le-Rideau, and Langeais; Amboise (6/day, 1 hour, transfer at St-Pierre-des-Corps).
By Bus to: Amboise (1-2/day, Mon-Sat only, none on Sun, 25 minutes, departs Chenonceaux at about 12:15, in summer also at about 17:50, catch bus across the street from the TI, tel. 02 47 05 30 49, www.tourainefilvert.com).
By Shuttle Van/Minivan Excursion: Quart de Tours and Touraine Evasion run shuttle trips (high season only) from Amboise and Tours that pair different châteaux, including Chenonceau and Chambord or Cheverny. Minivan excursions from Amboise and Tours are also available (see “Amboise Connections” on here).
By Taxi to: Amboise (€27, €39 on Sun and after 19:00).
Bustling Blois (pronounced “blah”) feels like the Big Apple after all of those rural villages and castles—its urban vibe can be a shock. Blois owns a rich history, dolled-up pedestrian areas, and a darn impressive château smack in its center. With convenient access to Paris, Blois can make a handy base for train travelers; Chambord and Cheverny are within reach by excursion bus (cheap, high season only) or taxi (pricey, any season, also serve Chaumont). Frequent train service to Paris and Amboise enables easy stopovers in Blois (luggage lockers available at château with paid entry).
If Blois feels more important than other Loire towns, it was. From this once powerful city, the medieval counts of Blois governed their vast lands and vied with the king of France for dominance. The center of France moved from Amboise to Blois in 1498, when Louis XII inherited the throne (after Charles VIII had his unfortunate head-banging incident in Amboise). The château you see today is living proof of this town’s 15 minutes of fame. But there’s more to Blois than just its château. Tour the flying-buttressed St. Nicholas Church, find the medieval warren of lanes below St. Louis Cathedral, and relax in a café on Place Louis XII.
Unlike most other Loire châteaux, Blois’ Château Royal sits right in the city center, with no forest, pond, moat, or river to call its own. It’s an easy walk from the train station, near ample underground parking, and just above the TI. Below the château, Place Louis XII marks the hub of traffic-free Blois, with cafés and shops lining its perimeter. Rue du Commerce, leading up from the river, is Blois’ primary shopping street. Atmospheric cafés and restaurants hide in the medieval tangle of lanes below St. Louis Cathedral and around St. Nicholas Church. Blois was heavily bombed in World War II, leaving much of the old town in ruins, but the château survived. Today, the city largely ignores its river and celebrates Saturdays with a great market (until about 13:00) centered on Place Louis XII. Sundays are quiet in Blois.
Train travelers can walk 10 minutes straight out of the station down Avenue du Dr. Jean Laigret to the TI and château (follow small brown Château signs), or take a two-minute taxi from in front of the station. There’s no bag check at the station; see “Helpful Hints,” later, for options.
Drivers follow Centre-Ville and Château signs (metered parking along Avenue du Dr. Jean Laigret or inside at Parking du Château—first 30 minutes free, then about €2/2.5 hours).
The cramped TI is across from the château entrance. They sell a discounted châteaux pass (for example, Blois/Chambord/Chenonceau for €28.50) and offer a pay computer terminal and pay Wi-Fi (daily April-Sept 9:00-19:00, Oct-March 10:00-17:00, 23 Place du Château, tel. 02 54 90 41 41, www.bloischambord.com). You can explore the center of Blois by using the TI’s handy walking-tour brochure (€2, red and purple routes are best), download their free city guide app, or just follow my suggested route below. The TI also has information on bike rentals and routes.
Baggage Storage: You can store small and midsize bags in the château’s free lockers with paid admission—so you can drop off your luggage, tour the château and town, and even take an excursion to Chambord and Cheverny, provided you reclaim your bag before the château closes. Détours de Loire is the only place in town to store large suitcases (€2/day per bag, free if you rent bike, see “Bike Rental,” next).
Bike Rental: Détours de Loire bike rental is near the train station at 39 Avenue du Dr. Jean Laigret (tel. 02 54 56 07 73). Because they also have a shop in Amboise, you can rent a bike for a 26-mile one-way ride to Amboise, stopping at garden-rich Chaumont-sur-Loire on the way. See “Biking from Blois,” later, for route ideas.
Laundry: A self-service launderette is at 6 Rue St-Lubin (daily from 7:00 until late).
Local Guide: Fabrice Maret lives in Blois and is a skilled teacher (see here for details).
A castle has inhabited this site since the 900s. Size up the current one from the big square before entering. Even though parts of the building date from the Middle Ages, notice the complete absence of defensive towers, drawbridges, and other fortifications. Gardens once extended behind the château and up the hill to a forest (where the train station is today). A walk around the building’s perimeter (to the right as you face it) reveals more of its beautiful Renaissance facade.
Kings Louis XII and François I built most of the château you see today, each calling it home during their reigns. That’s Louis looking good on his horse in the niche. The section on the far right looks like a church but was actually the château’s most important meeting room (more on this later).
Cost and Hours: €10, kids under age 18-€5, €15 combo-ticket with House of Magic (described later, under “Other Sights and Activities”) or sound-and-light show (see next page), €20 covers all three, daily July-Aug 9:00-19:00, April-June and Sept 9:00-18:30, Oct 9:00-18:00, Nov-March 9:00-12:30 & 14:30-17:30, audioguide-€4; free lockers available with entry, tel. 02 54 90 33 33, www.chateaudeblois.fr.
Sound-and-Light Show: This simple “show” takes place in the center courtyard and features projections with a historical narrative of the “loves, dramas, and mysteries” of French royal life (€8, €15 combo-ticket with château (or House of Magic, see next page), €20 covers all three, €2 audioguide provides English translation—free with your own headphones; daily April-Sept at about 22:00).
Information: At the ticket office, pick up the helpful English brochure, then read the well-presented English displays in each room. The entertaining audioguide tells the story of the château through the voices of its inhabitants (a nice change of pace from other audioguides).
Tours: In July-Aug, tours run in English once a day (usually early afternoon).
Visiting the Château: Begin in the courtyard, where four wings—ranging from Gothic to Neoclassical—underscore this château’s importance over many centuries. Stand with your back to the entry to get oriented. The medieval parts of the château are the brick-patterned sections (to your left and behind you), both built by Louis XII. While work was underway on Chambord, François I (who apparently was addicted to home renovation) added the elaborate Renaissance wing (to your right; early 16th century), centered on a protruding spiral staircase and slathered with his emblematic salamanders. Gaston d’Orléans inherited the place in the 1600s and wanted to do away with the messy mismatched styles. He demolished a church that stood across from you (the chapel to your left is all that remains) and replaced it with the clean-lined, Neoclassical structure you see today. Luckily, that’s as far as he got.
Visit the interior counterclockwise, and focus on the Renaissance wing. Begin in the far-right corner (where you entered the courtyard) and walk under the stone porcupine relief, Louis’ symbol, and up the steps into the dazzling Hall of the Estates-General (it resembles a church from the outside). This is the oldest surviving part of the château (predating Louis and François), where the Estates-General met twice to deliberate who would inherit the throne from Henry III, who had no male heir. (Keep reading to see how Henry resolved the problem.)
Continue into the small lapidary museum (down the steps by the wooden staircase), with an engaging display of statues and architectural fragments from the original château (love the gargoyles).
Stone stairs lead up to the royal apartments of François I. Immerse yourself in richly tiled, ornately decorated rooms with some original furnishings (excellent English explanations posted). You’ll see busts and portraits of some of the château’s most famous residents, and near the end, learn about the dastardly 1588 murder of the duke of Guise, which took place in these apartments. In the late 1500s, the devastating Wars of Religion pitted Protestant against Catholic, and took a huge toll on this politically and religiously divided city—including the powerful Guise brothers. King Henry III (Catherine de’ Medici’s son) had the devoutly Catholic duke assassinated to keep him off the throne.
The Neoclassical wing is of less interest; end your visit with a walk through the small fine-arts museum. Located just over the château’s entry, this 16th-century who’s-who portrait gallery lets you put faces to the characters that made this château’s history.
The home of Jean-Eugène Robert-Houdin, the illusionist whose name was adopted by Harry Houdini, offers an interesting but overpriced history of illusion and magic. Kids enjoy the gift shop. Several daily 30-minute shows have no words, so they work in any language.
Cost and Hours: Adults-€9, kids under 18-€7, €15 combo-ticket with château, €20 combo-ticket includes château and sound-and-light show; daily 10:00-12:30 & 14:00-18:30, magic “séance” schedule posted at entry—usually at 11:15, 14:45 or 15:15, and 17:15; at the opposite end of the square from the château, tel. 02 54 90 33 33, www.maisondelamagie.fr.
Sample wines from a variety of local vintners on the château square, next to Le Marignan café (free, daily 11:00-19:00, closed at lunchtime off-season, tel. 02 54 74 76 66).
There’s little to do along the river except to cross Pont Jacques Gabriel for views back to the city. But Blois’ old town is well worth a wander. Although much of the historic center was destroyed by WWII bombs, it has been tastefully rebuilt with traffic-free streets and pleasing squares.
For a taste of medieval Blois, head to Place Louis XII, ground zero in the old city; from here, walk down Rue St-Lubin. Follow along as the street (now called Rue des Trois Marchands) curves to the left; continue until you see the church of St. Nicholas on your left. The towering church, with its flying buttresses, dates from the late 1100s, and is worth a peek inside for its beautifully lit apse and its blend of Gothic and Romanesque styles. Find Rue Anne de Bretagne behind the church and track it back to Place Louis XII. From here, pedestrian-friendly streets like Rue St-Martin lead north to Rue du Commerce, the town’s main shopping drag, and to peaceful medieval lanes below Blois’ other hill, crowned by St. Louis Cathedral. Finish your walk in the lovely rose garden by the cathedral. Nearby Rue de la Foulerie is headquarters for hip Blois.
Blois is well-positioned as a starting point for biking forays into the countryside. Cycling from Blois to Chambord is a level, one-hour, one-way ride along a well-marked, 10-mile route, much of it a bike-only lane that follows the river. You can loop back to Blois without repeating the same route, and connect to a good network of other bike paths (the TI’s free Les Châteaux à Vélo map shows the bike routes in this area). Hardy riders can bike one-way to Amboise via Chaumont by renting at the Détours de Loire bike shop (See “Helpful Hints” for Blois, earlier).
Blois has a scarcity of worthwhile hotels.
$$$ Hôtel Mercure Blois**** is modern, pricey, and made for businesspeople, but it’s reliable, with big, superior two-level rooms and a riverfront location a 15-minute walk below the château (Db-€150-200, breakfast-€16, air-con, elevator, parking-€9/day, 28 Quai Saint Jean, tel. 02 54 56 66 66, www.mercure.com).
$$$ Best Western Blois Château*** has stylish decor, small-but-sharp rooms, and all the comforts you’d expect from this chain. In summer you can have breakfast on their quiet garden terrace (Db-€90-150, breakfast-€12, air-con, elevator, across from the train station and behind the château at 8 Avenue du Dr. Jean Laigret, tel. 02 54 56 85 10, www.hotelblois-gare.fr, contact@hotelblois-gare.fr).
$$ La Maison de Thomas is a mod B&B that doubles as a wine-tasting boutique specializing in Loire vintages. It’s an old building, but all five rooms have been updated with Euro-chic decor and refinished floors (Db-€95-105, Tb-€130, includes breakfast, cash only, uphill from the château near the pedestrian main drag at 12 Rue Beauvoir, ask for directions to street parking, tel. 09 81 84 44 59, www.lamaisondethomas.fr, resa@lamaisondethomas.fr, Guillaume).
$ Hôtel Anne de Bretagne** offers good value with 29 comfortable, traditional rooms, a central location near the château and train station, and a welcoming terrace. Ask for a room on the quiet side of the building facing the terrace. They also rent bikes—best to book in advance. Say hello to the hotel chien, Jappy (Db-€60, Tb-€65-75, Qb-€85, breakfast-€8.50, no elevator or air-con, 150 yards uphill from Parking du Château, 5-minute walk below the train station at 31 Avenue du Dr. Jean Laigret, tel. 02 54 78 05 38, www.hotelannedebretagne.com, contact@hotelannedebretagne.com).
Diners can start off their evening with a glass of wine at welcoming Chez Laurent, where locals gather around wine barrels to sip and people-watch (5 Rue St-Martin). Another popular watering hole is Le St. Lubin, a café-bar (16 Rue St-Lubin).
If you’re stopping in Blois around lunchtime, plan on eating at one of the places in the lower part of town. Le Marignan, on the square in front of the château, works for a drink to watch the stately mansion opposite the château becoming the “dragon house,” as monsters crane their long necks out its many windows at the top of the hour.
Between the Château and the River: The traffic-free streets between the château and the river are home to many cafés with standard, easy meals. La Banquette Rouge, a block above St. Nicholas Church’s left transept, is your best bet for foodie-pleasing pleasures. It features fine regional dishes with creative twists—try the duck or pan-fried veal liver. You’ll dine in a long red booth—as the name suggests (€28 and €33 menus, closed Sun-Mon, reservations smart, 16 Rue des Trois Marchands, tel. 02 54 78 74 92, www.lesbanquettesrouges.com). Le Castelet, also near St. Nicholas, is simple and cheap with good vegetarian choices (menus from €20, closed Sun and Wed, 40 Rue St-Lubin, tel. 02 54 74 66 09). Douce Heure is a modish salon gourmand on Place Louis XII’s southwest corner. The extensive menu of homemade beverages includes iced teas, traditional hot chocolate, and fruit cocktails—the strawberry, raspberry, and rose are excellent. The €8.80 assiette complète is a tasty quiche or wrap with a salad; the €5 dessert plate is a killer (Tue-Sat 12:00-19:00, closed Sun-Mon, Place Louis XII).
Between the Cathedral and the River: To dine cheaply on an atmospheric square with no tourists in sight, find Place de Grenier à Sel (a block from the river, below St. Louis Cathedral). You’ll find these options nearby on a quiet charming square: La Grolle specializes in tasty fondues, raclettes, and other melted-cheese dishes, with lighter options available in summer (€17 menu, closed Sun-Mon, 5 Rue Vauvert, tel. 02 36 23 64 65), and next door, Le Vespa, which does a Franco-Italian mix (€9-15 pizzas, closed Sun-Mon, 11 Rue Vauvert, tel. 02 54 78 44 97).
From Blois by Train to: Amboise (14/day, 20 minutes), Tours (roughly hourly, 40 minutes), Chinon (6/day, 1.75-2.5 hours, transfer in Tours and possibly in St-Pierre-des-Corps), Azay-le-Rideau (7/day, 1.5 hours, transfer in Tours and possibly in St-Pierre-des-Corps), Paris (4/day direct to Gare d’Austerlitz, 1.5 hours, more with transfer in St-Pierre-des-Corps or Orléans).
By Bus to Chambord and Cheverny: From April through October, Transports du Loir-et-Cher (TLC) excursion buses to Chambord, Cheverny, and (less important) Beauregard leave from the Blois train station—look for them immediately to the left as you leave the station (TLC bus marked Navette-Châteaux, line #18). Morning departures from Blois station at 9:30 and 11:30 go to Chambord; from Chambord, departures link Cheverny and Beauregard with various return trips to Blois, allowing you from two to seven hours at a château. Verify these times at a TI or online (€6 bus fare, discounts offered on château entries including the Château Royal in Blois; buy tickets and get schedule from TI or bus driver—look for “Navette Châteaux de la Loire”). You can also board these buses at the Blois château (2 minutes later than the train station departure).
By Bus to ZooParc de Beauval: Buses take travelers from the Blois train station to the zoo (€4 round-trip, departs at 9:25 and returns at 16:40, 1-hour trip, daily April-Oct, confirm times at TI or tel. 02 54 58 55 44).
By Shuttle: Eco Shuttle offers several excursions a day to surrounding châteaux leaving from the Blois TI. For example, the Chambord-Cheverny trip leaves at 8:30 and returns at 12:30, giving you some free time at each castle (€35/person, book ahead at TI or online, tel. 06 49 26 34 35, www.ecoshuttle41.com).
By Taxi: Blois taxis wait 30 steps in front of the station and offer excursion fares to Chambord, Chaumont, or Cheverny (current rates posted in taxi shelter, about €36 one-way from Blois to any of these three châteaux, €110 round-trip to Chambord and Cheverny, €157 for Chambord and Chenonceau, more expensive on Sunday, 8-person minivans available, tel. 02 54 78 07 65). These rates are per cab, making the per-person price downright reasonable for groups of three or four.
With its huge scale and prickly silhouette, Château de Chambord, worth ▲▲▲, is the granddaddy of the Loire châteaux. It’s surrounded by Europe’s largest enclosed forest park, a game preserve defined by a 20-mile-long wall and teeming with wild deer and boar. Chambord (shahm-bor) began as a simple hunting lodge for bored Blois counts and became a monument to the royal sport and duty of hunting. (Apparently, hunting was considered important to keep the animal population under control and the vital forests healthy.)
The château’s massive architecture is the star attraction—particularly the mind-boggling double-helix staircase. Six times the size of your average Loire castle, the château has 440 rooms and a fireplace for every day of the year. The château is laid out as a keep in the shape of a Greek cross, with four towers and two wings surrounded by stables. Its four floors are each separated by 46 stairs, creating very high ceilings. The ground floor has reception rooms, the first floor up houses the royal apartments, the second floor up houses temporary exhibits and a hunting museum, and the rooftop offers a hunt-viewing terrace. Special exhibits describing Chambord at key moments in its history help animate the place. Because hunters could see best after autumn leaves fell, Chambord was a winter palace (which helps explain the 365 fireplaces). Only 80 of Chambord’s rooms are open to the public—but that’s plenty.
If you hate crowds, you’ll like Chambord. Because it’s so huge, it’s relatively easy to escape the hordes. It helps that there’s no one-way, mandatory tour route—you’re free to roam like a duke surveying his domain.
Cost and Hours: €11, daily April-Sept 9:00-18:00, Oct-March 9:00-17:00, parking-€4, tel. 02 54 50 40 00, www.chambord.org. There are two ticket offices: one in the village in front of the château, and another (less crowded) inside the actual château.
Getting There: It’s a 30-minute drive from Chenonceau. Without a car, the Blois excursion bus is best (€6, two daily departures from Blois station April-Oct, taxis from Blois also available; see “Blois Connections,” earlier, for bus and taxi details).
Information and Tours: This château requires helpful information to make it come alive. The free handout is a start, and most rooms have adequate English explanations, and for many visitors, this is enough. For more, rent a €5 audioguide (but skip the useless €8 tablet guide).
Services: You’ll find a TI by the ticket counter inside the château entry area. The bookshop has a good selection of children’s books. Among the collection of shops near the château, you’ll find an ATM, local souvenirs, a wine-tasting room, and cafés. There’s only one WC at the château itself (in a courtyard corner); otherwise use the pay WC in the village.
Biking Around the Park: Rent a bike to explore the park—a network of leafy lanes crisscrossing the vast expanse contained within its 20-mile-long wall.
Medieval Pageantry on Horseback Show: The 45-minute show, designed for young children, is not worth most people’s time or money (€12.50, €21 combo-ticket with château, mid-July-Aug daily at 11:45 and 18:00, May-June and Sept-early Oct Tue-Sun at 11:45 only, closed Mon, reservations recommended, in the stables across the field from the château entry, tel. 02 54 50 50 40).
Views: There are many great views of the château; the best depends on the light. Walk straight out the main entrance one to two hundred yards for exquisite looks back to the château. On the opposite (parking lot) side, you can cross the small river in front of the château and turn right for terrific frontal views.
Background: Starting in 1518, François I created this “weekend retreat,” employing 1,800 workmen for 15 years. (You’ll see his signature salamander symbol everywhere.) François I was an absolute monarch—with an emphasis on absolute. In 32 years of rule (1515-1547), he never once called the Estates-General to session (a rudimentary parliament in ancien régime France). This imposing hunting palace was another way to show off his power. Countless guests, like Charles V—the Holy Roman Emperor and most powerful man of the age—were invited to this pleasure palace of French kings...and were totally wowed.
The grand architectural plan of the château—modeled after an Italian church—feels designed as a place to worship royalty. Each floor of the main structure is essentially the same: four equal arms of a Greek cross branch off of a monumental staircase, which leads up to a cupola. From a practical point of view, the design pushed the usable areas to the four corners. This castle, built while the pope was erecting a new St. Peter’s Basilica, is like a secular rival to the Vatican.
Construction started the year Leonardo died, 1519. The architect is unknown, but an eerie Leonardo-esque spirit resides here. The symmetry, balance, and classical proportions combine to reflect a harmonious Renaissance vision that could have been inspired by Leonardo’s notebooks.
Typical of royal châteaux, this palace of François I was rarely used. Because any effective king had to be on the road to exercise his power, royal palaces sat empty most of the time. In the 1600s, Louis XIV renovated Chambord, but he visited it only six times (for about two weeks each visit).
Self-Guided Tour: This tour covers the highlights, floor by floor.
Ground Floor: This stark level shows off the general plan—four wings, small doors to help heated rooms stay warm, and a massive staircase. In a room just inside the front door, on the left, you can watch a worthwhile 18-minute video—look for a screen on the side wall for viewing with English subtitles.
The attention-grabbing double-helix staircase dominates the open vestibules and invites visitors to climb up. Its two spirals are interwoven, so people can climb up and down and never meet. Find the helpful explanation of the staircase posted on the wall. From the staircase, enjoy fine views of the vestibule action, or just marvel at the playful Renaissance capitals carved into its light tuff stone.
First Floor: Here you’ll find the most interesting rooms. Starting opposite a big ceramic stove, tour this floor basically clockwise. You’ll enter the lavish apartments in the king’s wing and pass through the grand bedrooms of Louis XIV, his wife Maria Theresa, and, at the far end after the queen’s boudoir, François I (follow Logis de François 1er signs). These theatrical bedrooms place the royal beds on raised platforms—getting them ready for some nighttime drama. Look for the wooden toilet with removable chamber pot, and notice how the furniture in François’ bedroom was designed so it could be easily disassembled and moved with him.
A highlight of the first floor is the fascinating seven-room Museum of the Count of Chambord (Musée du Comte de Chambord). The last of the French Bourbons, Henri d’Artois (a.k.a. the count of Chambord) was next in line to be king when France decided it didn’t need one. He was raring to rule—you’ll see his coronation outfits and even souvenirs from the coronation that never happened. Check out his boyhood collection of little guns and other weapons. The man who believed he should have become King Henry V lived in exile from the age of 10. Although he opened the palace to the public, he actually visited this château only once, in 1871.
The chapel tucked off in a side wing is interesting only for how unimpressive and remotely located it is. It’s dwarfed by the mass of this imposing château—clearly designed to trumpet the glories not of God, but of the king of France.
Second Floor: Beneath beautiful coffered ceilings (notice the “F” for François) is a series of ballrooms that once hosted post-hunt parties. Today, a quirky hunting museum with plenty of taxidermy and temporary exhibits occupies these rooms. From here, you’ll climb up to the rooftop, but first lean to the center of the staircase and look down its spiral.
Rooftop: A pincushion of spires and chimneys decorates the rooftop viewing terrace. From a distance, the roof—with its frilly forest of stone towers—gives the massive château a deceptive lightness. From here, ladies could scan the estate grounds, enjoying the spectacle of their ego-pumping men out hunting. On hunt day, a line of beaters would fan out and work inward from the distant walls, flushing wild game to the center, where the king and his buddies waited. The showy lantern tower of the tallest spire glowed with a nighttime torch when the king was in.
Gaze up at the grandiose tip-top of the tallest tower, capped with the king’s fleur-de-lis symbol. It’s a royal lily—not a cross—that caps this monument to the power of the French king.
In the Courtyard: In the far corner, next to the summer café, a door leads to the classy carriage rooms and the fascinating lapidary rooms. Here you’ll come face-to-face with original stonework from the roof, including the graceful lantern cupola, with the original palace-capping fleur-de-lis. Imagine having to hoist that load. The volcanic tuff stone used to build the spires was soft and easy to work, but not very durable—particularly when so exposed to the elements. Several displays explain the ongoing renovations to François’ stately pleasure dome.
This stately hunting palace, a ▲▲ sight, is one of the more lavishly furnished Loire châteaux. Because the immaculately preserved Cheverny (shuh-vehr-nee) was built and decorated in a relatively short 30 years, from 1604 to 1634, it has a unique architectural harmony and unity of style. From the start, this château has been in the Hurault family, and Hurault pride shows in its flawless preservation and intimate feel (it was opened to the public in 1922). The charming viscount and his family still live on the third floor (not open to the public, but you’ll see some family photos). Cheverny was spared by the French Revolution; the owners were popular then, as today, even among the village farmers.
The château sits alongside a pleasant village, with a small grocery, cafés offering good lunch options, and a few hotels.
Cost and Hours: €10, €14.50 combo-ticket includes Tintin “adventure” rooms, family deals, daily April-Oct 9:15-18:30, Nov-March 10:00-17:00, tel. 02 54 79 96 29, www.chateau-cheverny.fr.
Getting There: You can get to Cheverny by bus from Blois (see “Blois Connections” on here), or by shuttle bus or minivan tour from Amboise (see “Amboise Connections” on here).
Visiting the Château: As you walk across the manicured grounds toward the gleaming château, the sound of hungry hounds will follow you. Lined up across the facade are sculpted medallions with portraits of Roman emperors, including Julius Caesar (above the others in the center). As you enter the château, pick up the excellent English self-guided tour brochure, which describes the interior beautifully.
Your visit starts in the lavish dining room, decorated with leather walls and a sumptuous ceiling. Next, as you climb the stairs to the private apartments, look out the window and spot the orangerie across the gardens. It was here that the Mona Lisa was hidden (along with other treasures from the Louvre) during World War II.
On the first floor, turn right from the stairs and tour the I-could-live-here family apartments with silky bedrooms, kids’ rooms, and an intimate dining room. On the other side of this floor is the impressive Arms Room with weapons, a sedan chair, and a snare drum from the count of Chambord (who would have been king; see here). The King’s Bedchamber is literally fit for a king. Study the fun ceiling art, especially the “boys will be boys” cupids.
On the top floor peek inside the chapel, before backtracking down to the ground floor. Browse the left wing and find a family tree going back to 1490, a grandfather clock with a second hand that’s been ticking for 250 years, and a letter of thanks from George Washington to this family for their help in booting out the English.
Nearby: Barking dogs remind visitors that the viscount still loves to hunt (he goes twice a week year-round). The kennel (200 yards in front of the château, look for Chenil signs) is especially interesting when the 70 hounds are fed (April-mid-Sept daily at 17:00, mid-Sept-March Mon and Wed-Fri at 15:00). The dogs—half English foxhound and half French Poitou—are bred to have big feet and bigger stamina. They’re given food once a day (two pounds each in winter, half that in summer), and the feeding (la soupe des chiens) is a fun spectacle that shows off their strict training. Before chow time, the hungry hounds fill the little kennel rooftop and watch the trainer (who knows every dog’s name) bring in troughs stacked with delectable raw meat. He opens the gate, and the dogs gather enthusiastically around the food, yelping hysterically. Only when the trainer says to eat can they dig in. You can see the dogs at any time, but the feeding show is fun to plan for.
Also nearby, Tintin comic lovers can enter a series of fun rooms designed to take them into a Tintin adventure (called Les Secrets de Moulinsart, €14.50 combo-ticket with castle); hunters can inspect an antler-filled trophy room; and gardeners can prowl the château’s fine kitchen and flower gardens (free, behind the dog kennel).
Wine Tastings at the Château Gate: Opposite the entry to the château sits a slick wine-tasting room, La Maison des Vins. It’s run by an association of 32 local vintners. Their mission: to boost the Cheverny reputation for wine (which is fruity, light, dry, and aromatic compared to the heavier, oaky wines made farther downstream). Tasters have two options. In the first, any visitor can have four free tastes from featured bottles of the day, offered with helpful guidance. For most, this is the best approach. Wine aficionados can sample freely among the 96 labels (though there’s not enough range in vintage or grape variety to justify this selection), by using modern automated dispensers. Even if just enjoying the free samples, wander among the spouts. Each gives the specs of that wine in English (€6.50 for small tastes of 7 wines, €6-15 bottles, daily 11:00-13:15 & 14:15-19:00, open during lunch in July-Aug, closed in winter, tel. 02 54 79 25 16, www.maisondesvinsdecheverny.fr).
A castle has been located on this spot since the 11th century; the current version is a ▲▲ sight (▲▲▲ for garden or horse lovers). The first priority at Chaumont (show-mon) was defense. You’ll appreciate the strategic location on the long climb up from the village below. Gardeners will appreciate the elaborate Festival of Gardens that unfolds next to the château every year, and modern-art lovers will enjoy how works have been incorporated into the gardens, château, and stables. If it’s cold, you’ll also appreciate that the château is heated in winter (rare in this region).
Cost and Hours: Château and stables-€11; château open daily July-Aug 10:00-19:00, April-June and Sept 10:00-18:30, Oct 10:00-18:00, Nov-March 10:00-17:00, last entry 45 minutes before closing; audioguide-€4, English handout available, app available in English for iPhone and Android, tel. 02 54 20 99 22, www.domaine-chaumont.fr.
Festival of Gardens: This annual exhibit, with 25 elaborate gardens arranged around a different theme each year, draws rave reviews from international gardeners. It’s as impressive as the Chelsea Flower Show in England, but without the crowds—if you love contemporary garden design, don’t miss this (Garden Festival only-€12.50; €4 more for the château and stables; about mid-April to mid-Oct daily 10:00-20:00, special lighting July-Aug 22:00-24:00—keep your day ticket to re-enter for €8.50, tel. 02 54 20 99 22, www.domaine-chaumont.fr). When the festival is on, you’ll find several little cafés and reasonable lunch options scattered about the hamlet (festival ticket not needed). Chaumont also hosts a winter garden festival inside several greenhouses.
Getting There: There is no public transport to Chaumont, although the train between Blois and Amboise (14/day) can drop you (and your bike, if you like) in Onzain, a 25-minute roadside walk across the river to the château. Other options include bikes (Chaumont is about 11 level miles from Amboise or Blois) and taxis (about €36 from Blois train station), (see “Blois Connections,” here).
There’s a river-level entrance (closed in winter) and one up top behind the chateau (open all year). Drivers should park up top to avoid the hike up. From the river, drive up behind the château (direction: Montrichard), at the first roundabout follow the signs to Château and Festival des Jardins.
Background: The Chaumont château you see today was built mostly in the 15th and 16th centuries. Catherine de’ Medici forced Diane de Poitiers to swap Chenonceau for Chaumont; you’ll see tidbits about both women inside.
There’s a special connection to America here. Jacques-Donatien Le Ray, a rich financier who owned Chaumont in the 18th century, was a champion of the American Revolution. He used his wealth to finance loans in the early days of the new republic (and even let Benjamin Franklin use one of his homes in Paris rent-free for 9 years). Unfortunately, the US never repaid the loans in full and eventually Le Ray went bankrupt.
Ironically, the American connection saved Chaumont during the French Revolution. Le Ray’s son emigrated to New York and became an American citizen, but returned to France when his father deeded the castle to him. During the Revolution, he was able to turn back the crowds set on destroying Chaumont by declaring that he was now an American—and that all Americans were believers in liberté, égalité, and fraternité.
Today’s château offers a good look at the best defense design in 1500: on a cliff with a dry moat, big and small drawbridges with classic ramparts, loopholes for archers, and handy holes through which to dump hot oil on attackers.
Visiting the Château: Your walk through the palace—restored mostly in the 19th century—is described by the English flier you’ll pick up when you enter. As the château has more rooms than period furniture, your tour includes a few modern-art exhibits that fill otherwise empty spaces. The rooms you’ll visit first (in the east wing) show the château as it appeared in the 15th and 16th centuries. Your visit ends in the west wing, which features furnishings from the 19th-century owners.
The castle’s medieval entry is littered with various coats of arms. As you walk in, take a close look at the two drawbridges (a new mechanism allows the main bridge to be opened with the touch of a button). Once inside, the heavy defensive feel is replaced with palatial luxury. Peek into the courtyard—during the more stable mid-1700s, the fourth wing, which had enclosed the courtyard, was taken down to give the terrace its river-valley view.
Entering the château rooms, signs direct you along a one-way loop path (suite de la visite) through the château’s three wings. Catherine de’ Medici, who missed her native Florence, brought a touch of Italy to all her châteaux, and her astrologer (Ruggieri) was so important that he had his own (plush) room—next to hers. Catherine’s bedroom has a 16th-century throne—look for unicorns holding a shield. The Renaissance-style bed is a reproduction from the 19th century.
The exquisitely tiled Salle de Conseil has a grand fireplace designed to keep this conference room warm. The treasury box in the guard room is a fine example of 1600s-era locksmithing. The lord’s wealth could be locked up here as safely as possible in those days, with a false keyhole, no handles, and even an extra-secure box inside for diamonds.
Next comes the Diane de Poitiers room, which doesn’t have much to do with Diane but does have a fascinating collection of medallions. Look for the case of ceramic portrait busts dating from 1772, when Le Ray invited the Italian sculptor Jean-Baptiste Nini to work for him. In addition to Marie Antoinette, Voltaire, and Catherine the Great, you’ll find several medallions depicting Benjamin Franklin.
A big spiral staircase leads up through unfurnished rooms and then galleries of contemporary art. After the shock of the 21st century, you go back in time about 150 years to rooms decorated in 19th-century style. The dining room’s fanciful limestone fireplace is exquisitely carved. Find the food (frog legs, snails, goats for cheese), the maid with the bellows, and even the sculptor with a hammer and chisel at the top (on the left). Your visit ends with a stroll through the 19th-century library, the billiards room, and the living room.
In the courtyard, study the entertaining spouts and decor on the walls, and remember that this space was originally enclosed on all sides. Chaumont has one of the best château views of the Loire River—rivaling Amboise for its panoramic tranquility.
The stables (écuries) were entirely rebuilt in the 1880s. The medallion above the gate reads pour l’avenir (for the future), which shows off an impressive commitment to horse technology. Inside, circle clockwise—you can almost hear the clip-clop of horses walking. Notice the deluxe horse stalls, padded with bins and bowls for hay, oats, and water, complete with a strategically placed drainage gutter. The horse kitchen (cuisine des chevaux) produced mash twice weekly for the horses, which were named for Greek gods and great châteaux. The “finest tack room in all of France” shows off horse gear. Beyond the covered alcove where the horse and carriage were prepared for the prince, you’ll see four carriages parked and ready to go.
The estate is set in a 19th-century landscape, with woodlands and a fine lawn. More English than French, it has rolling open terrain, follies such as a water tower, and a brilliantly designed potager (vegetable garden) with an imaginative mix of edible and decorative plants. Its trees were imported from throughout the Mediterranean world to be enjoyed—and to fend off any erosion on this strategic bluff.
The overlooked town of Loches (lohsh), about 30 minutes south of Amboise, makes a good base for drivers wanting to visit sights east and west of Tours (in effect triangulating between Amboise and Chinon), but has no easy train or bus connections. This pretty town sits on the region’s loveliest river, the Indre, and holds an appealing mix of medieval monuments, stroll-worthy streets, and fewer tourists. Its château dominates the skyline and is worth a short visit. The Wednesday and Saturday street markets are lively; the Saturday market takes over many streets in the old city.
Sleeping in Loches: For an overnight stay, try $$ Hôtel George Sand**, located on the river, with a well-respected restaurant, an idyllic terrace, and rustic, comfortable rooms (Db-€60-85, luxury Db-€135, Tb-€95, no elevator, 300 yards south of TI at 39 Rue Quintefol, tel. 02 47 59 39 74, www.hotelrestaurant-georgesand.com, contactGS@hotelrestaurant-georgesand.com).
The Renaissance château of Valençay (vah-lahn-say) is a massive, luxuriously furnished structure with echoes of its former owner Talleyrand (a famous French diplomat who helped broker the Louisiana Purchase). It has a killer kitchen, lovely gardens, kid-friendly activities and elaborate big toys, and lots of summer events such as fencing demonstrations and candlelit visits.
Cost and Hours: €12.50, includes audioguide covering château and gardens, daily June 9:30-18:30, July-Aug 9:30-19:00, April-May and Sept 10:30-18:00, Oct 10:30-17:00, closed Nov-March, tel. 02 54 00 15 69, www.chateau-valencay.fr.
This pleasing, sleepy town straddles the Vienne River and hides its ancient streets under a historic royal fortress. Henry II (Henry Plantagenet of England), Eleanor of Aquitaine, Richard the Lionheart, and Joan of Arc all called this town home for a while. Today’s Chinon (shee-nohn) is best known for its popular red wines. But for me it’s also a top home base for seeing the sights west of Tours: Azay-le-Rideau, Langeais, Villandry, Rivau, Ussé, and the Abbaye Royale de Fontevraud. Each of these worthwhile sights is no more than a 20-minute drive away. Trains provide access to many châteaux (via Tours) but are time-consuming, so you’re better off with your own car or a minivan excursion (see “Chinon Connections,” later).
Chinon stretches out along the Vienne River, and everything of interest to travelers lies between it and the hilltop fortress. Charming Place du Général de Gaulle—ideal for café-lingering—is in the center of town. Rue Rabelais is Chinon’s traffic-free shopping street, with restaurants, bars, and cafés—as lively as they can be in peaceful Chinon.
The TI is by the river in the town center, a 15-minute walk from the train station. You’ll find chambres d’hôtes listings, wine-tasting and bike-rental information, and an English-language brochure with a self-guided tour of the town (May-Sept daily 10:00-13:30 & 14:00-19:00; shorter hours and closed Sun off-season; 1 Rue Rabelais, tel. 02 47 93 17 85, www.chinon-loirevalley.com).
Market Days: A bustling market takes place all day Thursday (food in the morning only) on Place Jeanne d’Arc (west end of town). There’s also a sweet little market on Saturday and Sunday mornings, around Place du Général de Gaulle.
Groceries: Carrefour City is across from the Hôtel de Ville, on Place du Général de Gaulle (Mon-Sat 7:00-21:00, Sun 9:00-13:00).
Laundry: Salon Lavoir is near the bridge at 7 Quai Charles VII (daily 7:00-21:00).
Bike and Canoe Rental: Canoë Kayak & Vélo rents bikes and canoes on the river, next to the campground (bikes-€16/day; canoes-€11/2 hours or €19/half-day, shuttle included; €15-26 to combine bike and canoe in a half/full day; cash only, closed off-season, Quai Danton, mobile 06 23 82 96 33, www.loisirs-nature.fr). For more on biking and canoeing, see here.
Taxi: Call 06 83 51 87 88 for taxi service.
Car Rental: It’s best to rent a car at the St-Pierre-des-Corps train station.
Best Views: You’ll find terrific rooftop views from the fortress and along Rue du Coteau St-Martin (between St. Mexme Church and the fortress—see map), and rewarding river views to Chinon by crossing the bridge in the center of town and turning right (small riverfront café May-Sept).
(See “Chinon” map, here.)
Chinon offers a peaceful world of quiet cobbled lanes, historic buildings, and few tourists. By following this self-guided walk (or the TI’s self-guided tour brochure) and reading plaques at key buildings, you’ll gain a good understanding of this city’s historic importance.
• Begin this short walk from the highest point of the bridge that crosses the Vienne River, and enjoy the great view.
Chinon Riverbank: Chinon is sandwiched between the Vienne River (which flows into the Loire River only a few miles from here) and an abrupt cliff. People have lived along the banks of this river since prehistoric times. The Gallo-Romans built the first defenses in Chinon 1,600 years ago, and there’s been a castle up on that hill for over a thousand years—which pretty much predates every other castle you’ll visit in the Loire area. The skinny, curved clock tower served as the entrance to the middle section of the fortress during the Middle Ages. Starting in 1044, that fortress-castle became an important outpost for the king of France, and by 1150 Henry II Plantagenet (king of England) made this the center of his continental empire. A few hundred years later, Charles VII took refuge behind those walls during the Hundred Years’ War, during which Chinon was France’s capital city.
Down on the water, you’ll see reproductions of the traditional wooden boats once used to shuttle merchandise up and down the river; some boats ventured as far west as the Atlantic. Wow.
• Walk toward the city, then make a right along the riverbank and find the big statue that honors a famous Renaissance writer and satirist.
Rabelais Statue: The great French writer François Rabelais was born here in 1494. You’ll see many references to him in his proud hometown. His best-known work, Gargantua and Pantagruel, describes the amusing adventures of father-and-son giants and was set in Chinon. Rabelais’ vivid humor and savage wit are, for many, quintessentially French—there’s even a French word for it: rabelaisien. In his bawdy tales, Rabelais critiqued society in ways that deflected outright censorship—though the Sorbonne called his work obscene. A monk and a doctor, he’s considered the first great French novelist, and his farces were a voice against the power of the Church and the king.
• Turn your back on Rabelais and follow the cobbled sidewalk leading to the center of Chinon’s main square.
Place du Général de Gaulle: The town wall once sat on the wide swath of land running from this square down to the river, effectively walling the city off from the water. This explains why, even now, Chinon seems to turn its back on its river. In medieval times, the market was here, just outside the wall. The town hall building, originally an arcaded market, was renovated only in the 19th century. Today it flies three flags: Europe, France, and Chinon (with its three castles). From here, you can see the handy elevator that connects the town with its castle.
Turn left down Rue Voltaire. If the old wall still stood, you’d be entering town through the east gate. (Note the info plaques here and scattered throughout town.) Walk along a fine strip of 16th-, 17th-, and 18th-century houses to find a trio of fun wine-tasting possibilities. A half-block to the right is the charming little Musée Animé du Vin; at the next corner is the laid-back Cave Voltaire wine shop, and a right turn on the next small lane leads to Caves Painctes and the quarry where the stone for the castle originated (all covered later, under “Sights in Chinon.”)
• Continue walking a few blocks farther into the historic city center.
Old Town: In the immediate post-WWII years, there was little money or energy to care for beautiful old towns. But in the 1960s, new laws and sensitivities kicked in, and old quarters like this were fixed up and preserved. Study the vernacular architecture. La Maison Rouge (at 38 Rue Voltaire) is a fine example of the town’s medieval structures: a stone foundation and timber frame, filled in with whatever was handy. With dense populations crowding within the protective town walls, buildings swelled wider at the top to avoid blocking congested streets.
Pop into the ancient bookshop on the corner. I asked the owner where he got his old prints. He responded, “Did you ever enjoy a friend’s mushrooms and ask him where he found them? Did he tell you?”
The town museum is across the street. Its plaque recalls that this building housed an Estates-General meeting, convened by Charles VII, in 1428. Just around the corner, find a good tower view (and a public WC).
• From here the street changes names to Rue Haute St-Maurice. You can continue in the same direction and find the Caves Plouzeau wine cellars at #94 (described later). If you’d rather visit the castle, turn around, walk back and climb up Rue Jeanne d’Arc (look for the plaque that tells us that Joan of Arc dismounted her horse at this spot in 1429)—or take the elevator—to the fortress.
Chinon’s castle (or fortress) is more ruined and older than the more famous and visited châteaux of the Loire. It comes without a hint of pleasure palace. While there’s not much left, its rich history and terrific views makes the castle a popular destination for historians and French tourists.
Cost and Hours: €8.50, daily March-Oct 9:30-18:00, May-Aug until 19:00, Nov-Feb 9:30-17:00, tel. 02 47 93 13 45, www.forteressechinon.fr.
Castle Tours: Your admission includes an informative self-guided tour booklet that guides you through various automated information stations. Free English-language tours leave daily and can help bring the ruins to life. It’s worth planning your visit around them (45 minutes, March-Oct generally at 11:00, 14:00, and 17:00).
Getting There: It’s a bracing walk up from town, or walk behind Place Hofheim to find the free “panoramic” elevator (and still climb 5 minutes). There’s a free parking lot 100 yards above the castle entry.
Background: England’s King Henry II and Eleanor of Aquitaine, who ruled a vast realm from Scotland to the Spanish border, reigned from here around 1150. They had eight children (among them two future kings, including Richard the Lionheart). And it was in this castle that Joan of Arc pleaded with Charles VII to muster the courage to rally the French and take the throne back from the nasty English. Charles had taken refuge in this well-fortified castle during the Hundred Years’ War, making Chinon France’s capital city during that low ebb in Gallic history.
Visiting the Castle: The castle has three structures separated by moats. Enter via the oldest part, the 12th-century Fort Saint-Georges. Crossing a dry moat, you’ll land in the big courtyard of the Château du Milieu; at the far end is Fort Coudray. The fortress comes with commanding views of the town, river, and château-studded countryside.
Follow the arrows through eight stark and stony rooms, enjoying the clever teaching videos. There’s a small museum devoted to the legendary Joan of Arc and her myth, developed through the centuries to inspire the French to pride and greatness. Chinon—both the city and the castle—developed as its political importance grew. It was the seat of French royalty in the 14th century. Most of the stones were quarried directly below the castle and hauled up through a well. The resulting caverns keep stores of local wine cool to this day.
Chinon reds are among the most respected in the Loire, and there are a variety of ways to sample them.
At the most convenient of Chinon’s wine-tasting options, English-speaking sommelier Patrice would love to help you learn about his area’s wines. He serves inexpensive appetizers and has wines from all regions of France—the best, of course, are from Chinon. It’s a good place to come before dinner. The ambience inside is wine-shop cozy, but the tables outside are hard to resist (April-Oct daily 10:30-23:30, off-season closed Mon, near Place du Général de Gaulle at 13 Rue Voltaire, tel. 02 47 93 37 68).
This place offers an opportunity to walk through long, atmospheric caves—complete with mood lighting—that extend under the château to a (literally) cool tasting room and reasonably priced wines (€7-15/bottle, April-Sept Tue-Sat 11:00-13:00 & 15:00-19:00, closed Sun-Mon; Oct-March Thu-Fri 14:00-18:00, Sat 11:00-13:00, closed Sun-Wed, at the western end of town on 94 Rue Haute St-Maurice, tel. 02 47 93 16 34, www.plouzeau.com).
At this cave, summer travelers can sample Chinon wines and walk through the cool quarry from which stones for the castle and town’s houses were cut. This rock (tuff) is soft and easily quarried, and when exposed to oxygen, it hardens. The caves, 300 feet directly below the castle, were dug as the castle was built. Its stones were hauled directly up to the building site with a treadmill-powered hoist. Converted to wine cellars in the 15th century, the former quarry is a pilgrimage site of sorts for admirers of Rabelais, who featured it prominently in his writings. The English tour takes about an hour and includes a 20-minute video and a tasting of three local wines. Designed to promote Chinon wines, it’s run by a local winemakers’ association (€3, July-Aug Tue-Sun at 11:00, 15:00, 16:30, and 18:00; closed Mon and Sept-June; off Rue Voltaire on Impasse des Caves Painctes, tel. 02 47 93 30 44).
This combination museum/restaurant is the life’s work of a passionate wine lover, the mustachioed Dédé la Boulange. You’ll stroll through a few rooms animated by characters re-creating the production of local wines, and smile at the ingenuity of his handiwork (€4.50, €3.50 if you enjoy dinner at his recommended restaurant on the premises, daily mid-March-mid-Oct 10:00-22:00, closed off-season, 12 Rue Voltaire, tel. 02 47 93 25 63).
Château du Petit Thouars offers a royal wine-tasting experience just 10 minutes west of Chinon (near Abbaye Royale de Fontevraud), featuring an elegant castle and vineyards that produce fine white, rosé, and red wines. Email, call directly, or ask the TI to book a visit (€5-basic tasting, €15-tasting and tour of cellars, €35-memorable picnic and tasting package, closed Sun, in St-Germain sur Vienne, tel. 02 47 95 96 40, www.chateau-du-petit-thouars.com, sebastien@chateaudptwines.com).
For an authentic winery experience in the thick of the vineyards, drive about 25 minutes from Chinon to Domaine de la Chevalerie. This traditional winery has been run by the same family for 14 generations. If you’re lucky, fun-loving and English-speaking daughter Stéphanie (and occasionally other English-speaking staff) will take you through the cavernous hillside cellars crammed with 180,000 bottles, then treat you to a tasting of their 100 percent Cabernet Franc reds from seven different plots of land (€12 includes tastes of several wines, by appointment Mon-Sat 10:00-18:30, shorter hours off-season, off D-35 at 7 Rue du Peu Muleau, Restigné, for location see map on here, tel. 02 47 97 46 32, www.domainedelachevalerie.fr).
A few good options are available from Chinon (be sure to get maps from the TI or your bike rental shop). The easiest ride—thanks to the level terrain—is to the pretty village of Candes-St-Martin, where the Vienne and Loire rivers meet. Some cyclists can manage the longer ride from Chinon to Ussé and back, and some may want to venture even farther to Villandry. To avoid the monumental hill when leaving town, take your bike in the free elevator up to the château level (get directions from your bike rental). Connecting these château towns is a full-day, 40-mile round-trip ride that only those in fit condition will enjoy (see “Helpful Hints,” earlier, for rental location and costs).
From April through September, plastic canoes and kayaks are available to rent next to the campground across the lone bridge in Chinon. The outfitters will shuttle you upriver to tiny Anché for a scenic and fun two-hour, four-mile float back to town—ending with great Chinon fortress views. They also offer a 10-mile, half-day float that starts in Chinon and ends downriver in the sweet little village of Candes-St-Martin. Or do your own biathlon by canoeing one way and biking back (see “Helpful Hints,” earlier, for rental location and costs).
Café Français, run by Jean François (a.k.a. “Jeff”), is a characteristic local hangout and the place for any late-night fun in this sleepy town. It sometimes has live music off-season (open Tue-Sat from 18:00 and Sun from 19:00 until you shut it down, closed Mon year-round and Sun off-season, behind town hall at 37 Rue des Halles, tel. 02 47 93 32 78).
Hotels are a good value in Chinon. If you stay overnight here, walk out to the river and cross the bridge for a floodlit view of the château walls.
$$$ Best Western Hôtel de France*** offers good comfort in 28 rooms on Chinon’s best square; many have partial views of the fortress (Db-€95-139, Tb/Qb-€139-195, breakfast-€10, several rooms have balconies over the square, some have thin walls, air-con, pay parking 50 yards north of hotel, 49 Place du Général de Gaulle, tel. 02 47 93 33 91, www.bestwestern-hoteldefrance-chinon.com, elmachinon@aol.com).
$$ Hôtel Diderot**, a handsome 18th-century manor house on the eastern edge of town, is the closest hotel I list to the train station (drivers, look for signs from Place Jeanne d’Arc). The hotel surrounds a carefully planted courtyard, and has a small bar with a good selection of area wines. Rooms in the main building vary in size and decor, but all are well-maintained, with personal touches. Ground-floor rooms come with private patios. The four good family rooms have connecting rooms, each with a private bathroom; €10 breakfast includes a rainbow of homemade jams (Sb-€64-88, Db-€69-102, extra bed-€12, limited parking-€8/day, 4 Rue de Buffon, tel. 02 47 93 18 87, www.hoteldiderot.com, hoteldiderot@wanadoo.fr).
$ Le Plantagenêt*** has 33 comfortable rooms and may have space when others don’t. There’s a peaceful garden courtyard—picnics encouraged if you buy drinks from hotel, onsite washer/dryer, and a great €10.50 breakfast. Superior rooms in Maison Bourgeoise have a more historic feel and recently renovated bathrooms (Db-€70, superior Db-€85, air-con, 12 Place Jeanne d’Arc, tel. 02 47 93 36 92, www.hotel-plantagenet.com, resa@hotel-plantagenet.com).
$ Hôtel Agnès Sorel**, at the western end of town, sits on the river and is handy for drivers, but it’s a 30-minute walk from the train station and has some traffic noise. Of its ten sharp rooms, a few have river views, some have balconies, and five surround a small courtyard (Db-€58, bigger Db-€72, big Db suite-€110, T/Qb suite-€135, breakfast-€8.50, 4 Quai Pasteur, tel. 02 47 93 04 37, www.hotel-agnes-sorel.com, info@hotel-agnes-sorel.com).
$ Hôtel de la Treille has five rugged and rustic rooms for budget travelers who won’t mind the noise from the restaurant below (D-€34, Db-€44, Tb-€54, breakfast-€7, 4 Place Jeanne d’Arc, tel. 02 47 93 07 71, no email, no overhead).
$$$ Le Clos de Ligré lets you sleep in farmhouse silence, surrounded by vineyards and farmland. A 10-minute drive from Chinon, it has room to roam, a pool overlooking the vines, and a salon library room with a baby grand piano. English-speaking Martine Descamps spoils her guests with cavernous and creatively decorated rooms, two of which have low ceiling beams (Db-€110, good family rooms, includes breakfast, €35 dinner includes the works, cash only, 37500 Ligré, tel. 02 47 93 95 59, mobile 06 61 12 45 55, www.le-clos-de-ligre.com, mdescamps@club-internet.fr). From Chinon, cross the river and go toward Richelieu on D-749, turn right on D-115 at the Ligré par le vignoble sign, and continue for about five kilometers (3 miles). Turn left, following signs to Ligré; at the Dozon winery turn left and look for signs to Le Clos de Ligré (see map on here).
(See “Chinon” map, here.)
For a low-stress meal with ambience, choose one of the cafés on the photogenic Place du Général de Gaulle.
Au Chapeau Rouge offers a traditional and elegant gastronomique experience. Regional products are used in creative specialties: Try poires tapées (dried local pears) or the decadent déclinaison autour de la fraise (strawberry dessert medley). There’s a large selection of Chinon wines and pleasant outdoor seating (menus from €29, closed Sun-Mon, reservations recommended, 49 Place du Général de Gaulle, tel. 02 47 98 08 08, www.auchapeaurouge.fr).
L’Océanic, in the thick of the pedestrian zone, is where locals go for fish, tasty desserts, and a slow, relaxing meal. It has the best wine list in town and includes a great local cheese tray in all menus, but some find this place a tad stiff (menus from €26.50, closed Sun-Mon, 13 Rue Rabelais, tel. 02 47 93 44 55).
Les Saveurs d’Italie is a cheap and cheery deli/diner with a warm greeting and the town’s best Italian cuisine (€10 pizzas and pasta, outside seating, closed Sun-Mon, 19 Place du Général de Gaulle, tel. 02 47 58 80 62).
Restaurant-Musée Animé du Vin et de la Tonnellerie is a simple, one-man show where jolly Dédé dishes up all the wine you can drink and fouées you can eat (little pastry shells filled with garlic paste, cheese, or rillettes—that’s a meat spread), accompanied by mâche-and-walnut salad, green beans, dessert fouées, and wine—all for €19. It’s neither high-class nor high-cuisine (daily for lunch and dinner, closed Nov-mid-March, 12 Rue Voltaire, tel. 02 47 93 25 63).
La Part des Anges is a two-person love affair with food in an intimate setting. Virginie creates contemporary cuisine based on timeless French technique while husband Hervé serves with aplomb even when it’s packed. The extra touches, such as amuse-bouche, add to the experience (menus from €23, good lunch options, limited outdoor seating, closed Mon-Tue, 5 Rue Rabelais, tel. 02 47 93 99 93).
At Restaurant Côté Jardin, you’ll dine smartly on traditional French food. Along with regional specialties, there are classics such as coq au vin and coquilles St. Jacques. In summer, linger in the secluded garden courtyard and order one of the best deals in town—the €14 menu that includes a starter, the plat du jour, and dessert. A French phrase book is a big help here (€14 and €25 menus, 30 Rue du Commerce, in summer enter through courtyard around the corner, tel. 02 47 93 10 97).
Near Chinon: For a memorable countryside meal, drive 25 minutes to Etape Gourmande at Domaine de la Giraudière, in Villandry (see listing on here). A trip here combines well with visits to Villandry and Azay-le-Rideau.
From Chinon to Loire Châteaux: Acco-Dispo, Loire Valley Tours, and Quart de Tours offer fixed-itinerary minivan excursions from Tours (see “Amboise Connections,” here). Take the train to Tours from Chinon (see below), or get several travelers together to book your own van from Chinon.
Twelve trains and SNCF buses link Chinon daily with the city of Tours (1 hour, connections to other châteaux and minibus excursions from Tours) and to the regional rail hub of St-Pierre-des-Corps in suburban Tours (TGV trains to distant destinations, and the fastest way to Paris). Traveling by train to the nearby châteaux (except for Azay-le-Rideau) requires a transfer in Tours and healthy walks from the stations to the châteaux. Fewer trains run on weekends.
From Chinon to Loire Châteaux: Azay-le-Rideau (7/day, 20 minutes direct, plus long walk to château), Langeais (5/day, 1.5-2 hours, transfer in Tours), Amboise (7/day, 1.5-2 hours, transfer in Tours), Chenonceaux (4/day, 1.5-2 hours, transfer in Tours), Blois (6/day, 1.75-2.5 hours, transfer in Tours and possibly in St-Pierre-des-Corps).
To Destinations Beyond the Loire: Paris’ Gare Montparnasse (8/day, 3-2.5 hours, transfer in Tours and sometimes also St-Pierre-des-Corps), Sarlat-la-Canéda (3/day, 6-7 hours, change at St-Pierre-des-Corps, then TGV to Libourne or Bordeaux-St. Jean, then train through Bordeaux vineyards to Sarlat), Pontorson/Mont St-Michel (3/day, 6-8.5 hours with change at Tours main station, Le Mans, and Rennes, then bus from Rennes), Bayeux (2/day, 5-6 hours with change in Tours and Caen, more via Tours, St-Pierre-des-Corps, and Paris’ Gare Montparnasse and Gare St. Lazare).
About 30 minutes west of Tours, Azay-le-Rideau (ah-zay luh ree-doh) is an endearing little town with a small but lively pedestrian zone and a château that gets all the attention. Azay-le-Rideau works well as a base for visiting sights west of Tours by car or bike (but not by train—the train station is a half-mile walk from the town center). The town is close to the A-85 autoroute, offering drivers reasonable access to châteaux near Amboise. But be prepared for scaffolding and some closed rooms as the château is being renovated until 2018.
Tourist Information: Azay-le-Rideau’s TI is just below Place de la République, a block to the right of the post office (July-Aug daily 10:00-19:00; Sept and April-June daily 10:00-13:00 & 14:00-18:00; Oct-March Mon-Sat 10:00-12:00 & 14:00-17:00, closed Sun; 4 Rue du Château, tel. 02 47 45 44 40, www.visitazaylerideau.com). The TI sells reduced-price tickets to all area châteaux and has free Wi-Fi. Ask them for bike-rental info, too.
Arrival in Azay-le-Rideau: It’s about a 25-minute walk from the station to the town center (taxi mobile 06 60 94 42 00). Walk down from the station, turn left, and follow Centre-Ville signs. Drivers can head for the château and park there.
This charming 16th-century château sparkles on an island in the Indre River, its image romantically reflected in the slow-moving waters. The building is a prime example of an early-Renaissance château. With no defensive purpose, it was built simply for luxurious living in a luxurious setting. The ornamental facade is perfectly harmonious, and the interior—with its grand staircases and elegant loggias—is Italian-inspired.
The château was built between 1518 and 1527 by a filthy-rich banker—Gilles Berthelot, treasurer to the king of France. The structure has a delightfully feminine touch: Because Gilles was often away for work, his wife, Philippa, supervised the construction. The castle was so lavish that the king, François I, took note, giving it the ultimate compliment: He seized it, causing its owner to flee. Because this château survived the Revolution virtually unscathed, its interior capably demonstrates three centuries of royal styles. The French government purchased it in 1905. The château is under renovation until 2018 but remains open with a lower entry fee; expect exterior scaffolding and some wings to be closed during your visit.
Cost and Hours: €6.50, daily July-Aug 9:30-19:00, April-June and Sept-Oct 9:30-18:00, Nov-March 10:00-17:15, last entry one hour before closing, unnecessary audioguide-€4.50, storage lockers, tel. 02 47 45 42 04, www.azay-le-rideau.fr.
Visiting the Château: Rooms are very well-described in English (only serious students should consider the audioguide). Cross the water to the island, enter the château, and climb to the top floor. Your visit starts in the castle attic (comble), where you’ll wander under a strikingly beautiful roof support cut from 500-year-old oak trees. Then work your way down through sumptuous Renaissance rooms loaded with elaborate tapestries, colossal fireplaces, and intricately carved wood chests. The room that smells like fresh grass employs a unique reconstruction of Renaissance-era insulation: plaited rush. Pause to admire the king’s portrait gallery in the “Apartement du XVII Siècle” (three Louis, three Henrys, and François I).
For many, the highlight of a visit is the romantic garden, designed in the 19th century to show off the already beautiful château. Take a spin on the path around the castle to enjoy romantic views.
The town’s appealing center may convince you to set up here.
$$ Hôtel de Biencourt*** is a find. Ideally located on a traffic-free street between Place de la République (easy parking) and the château, this sharp boutique hotel is a former girls school whose gentle owners have completed a masterful renovation. Rooms offer three-star comfort at two-star prices. There’s a pleasing garden terrace and a calming lounge area (Db-€85-95, Tb-€125, Qb-€140, good breakfast-€10, shared fridge, picnics OK on terrace, closed mid-Nov-late March, 7 Rue de Balzac, tel. 02 47 45 20 75, www.hotelbiencourt.com, contact@hotelbiencourt.fr).
Côté Cour is a good place to dine inside or out for fresh and creative cuisine at reasonable prices. Friendly Sandrine offers a few, select choices—local products and mostly organic foods—served in a warm interior or on a great outdoor terrace (€18-24 lunch menus, closed Tue eve-Wed, faces the château gate at 19 Rue Balzac, tel. 02 47 45 30 36). Crêperie du Roy is small, central, and cheap (24 Rue Nationale, tel. 02 47 45 91 88). If you have a car, seriously consider the 15-minute drive to Domaine de la Giraudière in Villandry (see here).
From Azay-le-Rideau, the train runs to Tours (8/day, 30 minutes, with connections to Amboise, Langeais, and other châteaux), to Chinon (7/day, 20 minutes), and to Blois (7/day, 1.5 hours, transfer in Tours and possibly in St-Pierre-des-Corps). Summertime buses run to Villandry and Langeais twice a day (the TI has bus schedules).
One of the most imposing-looking fortresses of the Middle Ages, Langeais—rated ▲—was built mostly for show. Towering above its appealing little village, it comes with a moat, a drawbridge, lavish defenses, and turrets.
Cost and Hours: €9, daily July-Aug 9:00-19:00, April-June and Sept-mid-Nov 9:30-18:30, mid-Nov-March 10:00-17:00, last entry one hour before closing, tel. 02 47 96 72 60, www.chateau-de-langeais.com.
Getting There: Nine trains a day link Langeais and Tours (20 minutes), with about five bus connections a day from there to Chinon (2 hours total, just as fast by bike for experienced riders). The A-85 autoroute provides convenient access for drivers coming from points east or west. Drivers should turn right at the foot of the castle. At the next intersection, turn left, following the side of the castle. The parking lot is about 200 yards farther on the right.
Eating: Right across from the château entrance is a pâtisserie/salon de thé with light meals, drinks, and assorted pastries.
Background: Langeais occupies a key site on the Loire River, 15 miles downstream on the road to Tours (which for a time was the French capital), and about halfway from Paris along the trading route to Brittany and the Atlantic. This location made Langeais a player in historic events, though the only remaining part of the original castle is the thousand-year-old tower standing across from the castle’s garden. (That castle, an English stronghold, was destroyed by the French king in the Hundred Years’ War.)
The “new” castle, built in the 15th century, dates from the age of cannons, which would have made quick work of its tough-looking facade. In fact, the imposing walls were mostly for show. This is a transitional piece of architecture: part medieval and part Renaissance. The mullioned windows overlooking the courtyard indicate this was a fancy residence more than a defensive fortress. While Langeais makes a show of its defenses, castles built just 50 years later (such as Azay-le-Rideau) give not a hint of fortification.
Visiting the Château: The interior is late Middle-Ages chic. It’s the life’s work of a 19th-century owner who was a lover of medieval art. He decorated and furnished the rooms with 15th- and 16th-century artifacts or good facsimiles. Most of what you see is modern-made in 16th-century style.
Langeais tries hard to give visitors a feel for royal life in the 15th century. The palace is decked out as palaces were—designed to impress, and ready to pack and move. The rooms are well-decorated and well-explained in the handy information sheets. In the bedrooms, it looks like the master has just left—gloves and other accessories are lying on the bedcovers. There were bedrooms for show, and bedrooms for sleeping.
The banquet room table would have groaned with food and luxury items—but just one long, communal napkin and no forks. Belgian tapestries on the walls still glimmer with 500-year-old silk thread. If you look closely at the astrology tapestry in one room, you’ll see that Aurora (Dawn) seems to be wearing headphones.
As you wander, notice how the rooms—with hanging tapestries, foldable chairs, and big chests with handles—could have been set up in a matter of hours. Big-time landowners circulated through their domains, moving every month or so. Also notice how each piece of furniture had multiple uses—such as a throne that doubled as a writing desk.
In the so-called Wedding Hall, wax figures re-create the historic marriage that gave Langeais its 15 minutes of château fame in 1491. It was here that King Charles VIII secretly wed 14-year-old Anne (duchess of Brittany), a union that brought independent Brittany into France’s fold. The gowns are accurate and impressive, and it’s interesting to see how short everyone was in the Middle Ages. An eight-minute sound-and-light show explains the event—usually in English at :15 past each hour.
The top-floor museum has a rare series of 16th-century tapestries featuring nine heroes—biblical, Roman, and medieval. This is one of just three such sets in existence, with seven of the original nine scenes surviving.
Finish your visit by enjoying commanding town views from the ramparts.
Villandry (vee-lahn-dree) is famous for its extensive gardens, considered to be the best in the Loire Valley, and possibly all of France. Its château is just another Loire palace, but the grounds—arranged in elaborate geometric patterns and immaculately maintained—make it a ▲▲ sight (worth ▲▲▲ for gardeners). Still, if you’re visiting anyway, it’s worth the extra euros to tour the château as well.
Cost and Hours: €10, €6.50 for gardens only, daily April-Sept 9:00-19:00, March and Oct 9:00-18:00, Nov-Feb 9:00-17:00, unnecessary audioguide-€4, storage lockers, tel. 02 47 50 02 09, www.chateauvillandry.fr. You can stay as late as you like in the gardens, though you must enter before the ticket office closes and exit through the back gate after 19:30. Parking is free and easy between the trees across from the entry (hide valuables in your trunk).
Background: Finished in 1536, Villandry was the last great Renaissance château built on the Loire. It’s yet another pet project of a fabulously wealthy finance minister of François I—Jean le Breton. While serving as ambassador to Italy, Jean picked up a love of Italian Renaissance gardens. When he took over this property, he razed the 12th-century castle (keeping only the old tower), put up his own château, and installed a huge Italian-style garden. The château was purchased in 1906 by the present owner’s great-grandfather, and the garden—a careful reconstruction of what the original might have been—is the result of three generations of passionate dedication.
Visiting the Château and Gardens: The excellent English handout included with your admission leads you through the château’s 19th-century rooms. They feel so lived-in that you’ll wonder if the family just stepped out to get their poodle bathed. The 15-minute Four Seasons of Villandry slideshow, with period music and no narration, offers a look at the gardens throughout the year in a relaxing little theater (ask at the ticket window or you may miss it). The literal high point of your château visit is the spiral climb to the top of the keep—the only surviving part of the medieval castle—where you’ll find a 360-degree view of the gardens, village, and surrounding countryside. The extra cost for visiting the château seems worth it when you take in the panorama.
The lovingly tended gardens are well-described by your handout. Follow its recommended route through the four garden types. The 10-acre Renaissance garden, inspired by the 1530s Italian-style original, is full of symbolism. Even the herb and vegetable sections are put together with artistic flair. The earliest Loire gardens were practical, grown by medieval abbey monks who needed vegetables to feed their community and medicinal herbs to cure their ailments. And those monks liked geometrical patterns. Later Italian influence brought decorative ponds, tunnels, and fountains. Harmonizing the flowers and vegetables was an innovation of 16th-century Loire châteaux. This example is the closest we have to that garden style. Who knew that lentils, chives, and cabbages could look this good?
The 85,000 plants—half of which come from the family greenhouse—are replanted twice a year by 10 full-time gardeners. They use modern organic methods: ladybugs instead of pesticides and a whole lot of hoeing. The place is as manicured as a putting green—just try to find a weed. Stroll under the grapevine trellis, through a good-looking salad zone, and among Anjou pears (from the nearby region of Angers). If all the topiary and straight angles seem too rigid, look for the sun garden in the back of the estate, which has “wilder” perennial borders favored by the Brits. Charts posted throughout identify everything in English.
Bring bread for the piranha-like carp who prowl the fanciful moat. Like the carp swimming around other Loire châteaux, they’re so voracious, they’ll gather at your feet to frantically eat your spit.
The pleasant little village of Villandry offers several cafés and restaurants, a small grocery store, a bakery, and fair rates at the little $ Hôtel-Restaurant le Cheval Rouge*** right on the main drag (Db-€70, extra person-€12, dinner menus from €25, tel. 02 47 50 02 07, www.lecheval-rouge.com).
Etape Gourmande at Domaine de la Giraudière offers a wonderfully rustic farmhouse dining experience. Gentle owner Beatrice takes time with every client (ask her how she landed here), and the country-gourmet cuisine is simply delicious. The menu is flexible: Choose just a starter and dessert, a starter and main course, or all three if you’re starved. The dining room is très cozy, but the outside seating is pleasant, too (€19-40 menus, mid-March-mid-Nov daily 12:00-14:30 & 19:30-21:00, closed mid-Nov-mid-March, reservations smart, a half-mile from Villandry’s château toward Druye, for location see map on here, tel. 02 47 50 08 60, www.letapegourmande.com). This place works best for lunch, as it’s well-signed between Villandry and Azay-le-Rideau on D-121.
Gleaming white and medieval, this château sits wedged between wheat and sunflower fields, and makes for a memorable 15-minute drive from Chinon. Its owners have spared little expense in their decades-long renovation of the 15th-century castle and its extensive gardens. The 14 different flower and vegetable gardens and orchards are kid-friendly (with elf and fairy guides) and lovingly tended with art installations, topiaries, hammocks, birds, a maze, and much more. The stables—with projections about jousting and “Heroic Horses” from history—will delight most kids (English subtitles), but the medieval castle interior is skippable. A good little café serves reasonable meals in a lovely setting.
Cost and Hours: €10.50, daily April-Oct 10:00-18:00, May-Sept until 19:00, closed Nov-March, audioguide-€3, in Lémeré on D-759—from Chinon follow Richelieu signs, then signs to the château; tel. 02 47 95 77 47, www.chateaudurivau.com.
This château, famous as an inspiration for Charles Perrault’s classic version of the Sleeping Beauty story, is worth a quick photo stop for its fairy-tale turrets and gardens, but don’t bother touring the interior of this pricey pearl. The best view, with reflections and a golden-slipper picnic spot, is from just across the bridge.
Cost and Hours: €14, daily 10:00-18:00 in spring and fall, April-Aug until 19:00, closed mid-Nov-mid-Feb, along D-7 north of Chinon on the Indre River, tel. 02 47 95 54 05, www.chateaudusse.fr.
The Royal Abbey of Fontevraud (fohn-tuh-vroh) is a 15-minute journey west from Chinon. This vast 12th-century abbey provides a fascinating look at medieval monastic life. The “abbey” was actually a 12th-century monastic city, the largest such compound in Europe—with four monastic complexes, all within a fortified wall.
Cost and Hours: €10; April-Oct daily 9:30-18:00, June-Aug until 18:30; Nov-Dec and Feb-March Tue-Sun 10:00-17:00, closed Mon; closed Jan, tel. 02 41 51 73 52, www.abbayedefontevraud.com.
Tours: Spring for the helpful €4.50 audioguide (or €4.50 kids’ iPad “treasure hunt”), as the free English leaflet is short on information and the guided tours are only in French.
Parking: The closest free lot is between the church and the abbey entrance; look for a P Abbaye sign.
Background: The order of Fontevraud, founded in 1101, was an experiment of rare audacity. This was a double monastery, where both men and women lived under the authority of an abbess while observing the rules of St. Benedict (but influenced by the cult of the Virgin Mary). Men and women lived separately and chastely within the abbey walls. The order thrived, and in the 16th century, this was the administrative head of more than 150 monasteries. Four communities lived within these walls until the Revolution. In 1804, Napoleon made the abbey a prison, which actually helped preserve the building. It functioned as a prison for 150 years, until 1963, with five wooden floors filled with cells. Designed to house 800 inmates, the prison was notoriously harsh. Life expectancy here was eight months.
Visiting the Abbey: Thanks to the audioguide for adults and iPad for kids, this abbey is well-presented for English speakers.
Your visit begins in the bright, 12th-century, Romanesque abbey church. Sit on the steps, savor the ethereal light and the cavernous setting, and gaze down the nave. At the end of it are four painted sarcophagi belonging to Eleanor of Aquitaine; her second husband, Henry II, the first of England’s Plantagenet kings; their son Richard the Lionheart; and his sister-in-law. These are the tops of the sarcophagi only. Even though we know these Plantagenets were buried here (because they gave lots of money to the abbey), no one knows the fate of the actual bodies.
You’ll leave the church through the right transept into the cloister. This was the center of the abbey, where the nuns read, exercised, checked their email, and washed their hands. While visiting the abbey, remember that monastic life was extremely simple: nothing but prayers, readings, and work. Daily rations were a loaf of bread and a half-liter of wine per person, plus soup and smoked fish.
Next you’ll find the chapter house, where the nuns’ meetings took place, as well as the community room/treasury—the only heated room in the abbey, where the nuns embroidered linen. Renaissance paintings feature portraits of the women who ran this abbey, wearing black habits.
The nearby refectory, built to feed 400 silent monks at a time, was later the prison work yard, where inmates built wooden chairs.
Your abbey visit ends in the unusual, honeycombed, 12th-century kitchen (accessed from outside), with five bays covered by 18 chimneys to evacuate smoke. It likely served as a smokehouse for fish farmed in the abbey ponds. Abbeys like this were industrious places, but focused on self-sufficiency rather than trade.
Finish your visit by wandering through the abbey’s medicinal gardens out back.
For an unusual fungus find close to the abbey of Fontevraud, visit the mushroom caves called Le Saut aux Loups. France is one of the world’s top mushroom producers, so mushrooms matter. Climb to a cliff ledge and enter 16 chilly rooms bored into limestone to discover everything about the care and nurturing of mushrooms. You’ll see them raised in planters, plastic bags, logs, and straw bales, and you’ll learn about their incubation, pasteurization, and fermentation. Abandoned limestone quarries like this are fertile homes for mushroom cultivation, and have made the Loire Valley the mushroom capital of France since the 1800s. You’ll ogle at the weird shapes and never take your ’shrooms for granted again. The growers harvest a ton of mushrooms a month in these caves; shitakes are their most important crop. Pick up the English booklet and follow the fungus. Many visitors come only for the on-site mushroom restaurant, whose wood-fired galipettes (stuffed mushrooms with crème fraîche and herbs) are the kitchen’s forte.
Cost and Hours: €6.50, March-mid-Nov daily 10:00-18:00, closed mid-Nov-Feb, dress warmly, lunch served daily, €20-23 menus, just north of Fontevraud at Montsoreau’s west end along the river, for location see map on here, tel. 02 41 51 70 30, www.troglo-sautauxloups.com.
$$$ Hôtel la Croix Blanche***, 10 steps from the abbey, welcomes travelers with open terraces and will have you sleeping and dining in comfort. This ambitious restaurant-hotel combines a hunting-lodge feel with polished service, comfortable open spaces, a pool, and 24 rooms (Db-€100-150, Db suites-€175, Place Plantagenêts, tel. 02 41 51 71 11, www.hotel-croixblanche.com, info@hotel-croixblanche.com).
The abbey faces the main square of a cute town with several handy eateries. The boulangerie opposite the entrance to the abbey serves fine quiche and sandwiches at impossibly good prices. You’ll also find a few crêperies and cafés near the abbey.
$$ Le Domaine de Mestré, a five-minute drive from the abbey, was originally the abbot’s farm. Three generations now live on this historic and elegant site. Marie-Amélie, your host, helps organize your activities, while her sister makes soap the traditional way (small museum on the grounds), and her nephew takes care of the plants. The rooms are quiet, spacious, and well-appointed with antique furniture and wallpaper (Db-€95, Tb-€103, family rooms-€137-179, Wi-Fi in common areas only, good breakfast-€12, lunch and dinner possible, bike rental, on D-947 between Fontevraud and Montsoreau, tel. 02 41 51 72 32, www.domaine-de-mestre.com, contact@domaine-de-mestre.com).