Chapter 3
The
TECHNICIAN
Craftsmanship means dwelling on a task for a long time and going deeply into it, because you want to get it right.
—Matthew B. Crawford
SINCE THE first humans start banging rocks together, man has cultivated an interest in tools. Tools make the inconceivable possible. Man the biological machine created artificial machines to do his work, keep him safe, communicate his ideas, and transport him across land and sea. The result is transformative new vistas explored, new foods eaten, new knowledge created, and new ways of living established.
Craftsmen, handymen, technicians—we depend on them because they make whole what is broken. Through skilled practice, a technician masters his tools in order to master the world around him. This mastery brings a deep sense of satisfaction and confidence that differs from the rewards of more ethereal “knowledge work.” When you fix a leaky faucet or diagnose an engine problem, you see the immediate results of your action. The faucet stops leaking. The engine starts working.
In a culture that’s fast outsourcing manual skills, a man needs to intentionally gain the proficiencies of a technician. These skills will help him become more self-reliant and useful to those around him, and connect his hands to the tangible world. Jump-start your apprenticeship in the following pages.
TOOLBOX ESSENTIALS
It’s easy to tackle many jobs around the house when you have the right tools. Build your own tool kit and you’ll have what you need to take on a variety of fix-it tasks. Avoid the urge to purchase all-in-one kits made of cheap metal. Instead, buy quality tools from reputable brands one at a time, and learn to use each one as you go. These are the essentials every toolbox should contain.
1: CLAW hammer—A 16-ounce hammer carries oomph without being unwieldy, and the claw on the back helps pry up old and bent nails.
2: SOCKET set—Nuts and bolts are no challenge for the ratcheting strength of a socket set. Sockets come in metric and imperial sizes. Get both.
3: NEEDLE-NOSE pliers—Get a pair with wire cutters for a dual-purpose tool.
4: CORDLESS drill and bits—Handy for drilling holes, driving screws, and a variety of other tasks, a cordless drill gives you power and flexibility.
5: CRESCENT wrench—Also known as a monkey wrench, this versatile nut and bolt turner is great for plumbing jobs.
6: TAPE measure—You’ll be amazed at how often you need a tape measure in the garage and in the house. The 16-foot length covers most needs.
7: SCREWDRIVERS—Nearly all screws are of the Phillips-head or flathead variety. Pick out three sizes of each style with magnetic tips.
8: LEVEL—Hang perfectly straight pictures and avoid crooked lines whenever you’re building. Longer levels are more accurate than short ones.
9: HANDSAW—A sharp saw will make basic cuts through wood, metal, plastic, and rubber.
10: ALLEN wrench set—From build-it-yourself furniture to bicycles, the six-sided grip of an Allen wrench (also known as a “hex key”) is often in demand.
11: UTILITY knife—Ideal for opening hard plastic packaging and scoring wood, a sharp utility knife is a must-have tool you’ll use a thousand different ways. Always store it with the blade retracted.
12: LOCKING pliers—Get a solid hold on just about anything with these powerful jaws.
HANDLE A HAMMER
Hammering may seem like the most basic tool technique known to man. But these tips can help avoid the frustration of bent nails and the pain of smashed fingers. Good technique will drive your targets in faster, so you can spend less time hammering and more time admiring your finished work.
1: GRAB the hammer with a firm handshake grip. When starting a new nail, grip the hammer closer to the head for more control. As you drive the nail in, move your hand toward the bottom of the grip for increased power.
2: HOLD the nail between your thumb and forefinger, with the tip resting on the surface you’re pounding it into. Grip the nail near the head to give you more control and prevent smashed fingers.
3: LIGHTLY tap the head of the nail with the hammer until the nail’s tip digs in enough to hold it in place.
4: ADJUST your grip closer to the bottom of the hammer’s handle and continue striking the nail. Use your wrist for light taps, transferring the power to your elbow as the nail is driven in.
5: FOCUS your eyes on the nail head to avoid mishits and glancing blows.
6: PAUSE and re-align the nail if it starts to go in crooked. Fixing angled nails early improves your chances of getting the nail in straight.
USE A CRESCENT WRENCH
In its most simple form, a wrench is a tool that grips and turns things. And while most of us will only ever need to turn a crescent wrench or fiddle with a socket set, the complexity of professional wrenches and the nuts and bolts they turn is mind-boggling. The same basic principles for correct crescent wrench usage applies to almost all of them.
1: CHOOSE the correct size (or adjust it accordingly) to fit snugly on your nut or bolt. Wrench sizes and shapes can vary by mere millimeters, and using the wrong size can wreck the nut or bolt you’re turning.
2: REMEMBER “righty tighty, lefty loosey.” Turn clockwise to tighten and counterclockwise to loosen.
3: PULL, don’t push, the wrench in the direction you want it to turn. Pushing may result in bruised knuckles if your nut or bolt breaks free suddenly.
4: DON’T add leverage with a length of pipe. You may have seen your dad put a longer piece of pipe over his wrench to gain more leverage when tightening a fastener. You should avoid using “cheater bars” for several reasons. First, they can damage your wrench by bending the handle or jacking up the head. Second, because of the added torque you get with the extra leverage, you risk rounding your fastener if you don’t have the right wrench head for the job. Finally, the cheater bar may slip off the wrench’s handle while you’re turning, causing harm to you or others. If you need more leverage, use a longer wrench.
5: DON’T hit a wrench with a hammer. Unless you have a special “strike face” wrench that’s designed for being hit with an object, you risk damaging your tools.
10 WAYS TO USE A POCKETKNIFE
From multi-toothed behemoths like the Swiss Army Knife to a simple penknife with a single blade that folds into a stylish handle, a knife expresses your personality while offering you reliable utility. Carry a knife and you’re sure to use it for lots of things you never thought you would.
1: OPEN impossibly strong plastic packaging, boxes, and letters.
2: CREATE tinder from dry sticks for easy-to-start campfires.
3: CUT up food at a moment’s notice.
4: DEFEND yourself against an attack.
5: SHARPEN sticks into arrows or spears for survival.
6: STRIKE a flint to create a spark to start a fire.
7: TRIM pesky loose strings and itchy tags on clothes.
8: ACCESSORIZE by clenching the knife in your teeth while swinging from ropes, branches, and other Tarzan-approved apparatuses.
9: UNSCREW tiny flathead screws found in eyeglasses and small electronics.
10: SLICE your seat belt off if it gets jammed after an accident.
SHARPEN A POCKETKNIFE
A knife’s functionality is only as good as its maintenance. Although there are dozens of ways to sharpen knives, this basic technique goes a long way toward keeping your blade keen enough to do most jobs with ease. Sharp blades mean smoother cuts, which are safer because they require less force.
1: PREPARE a sharpening stone by lubricating the rough side with mineral oil. (Most stones have a smooth and a rough grit; start on the rough side.)
2: PLACE the blade against the stone so it makes a 15-degree angle.
Two quarters placed underneath the high edge of the blade will help set your knife at a 15-degree angle.
3: DRAG the blade across the stone, maintaining the angle throughout. Whether you drag the blade toward or away from you is a matter of personal preference.
4: SWITCH to the other side of the blade after you make a dozen passes and repeat.
5: USE alternating passes to even out the edge on both sides of the blade. Drag one side of the blade and then the other, making approximately six more passes on each side.
6: SWITCH to the smooth grit side of the stone and repeat steps 3 to 5.
Regular sharpening may only require that you use the smooth side of the stone.
A PRIMER ON AXES: THEIR ANATOMY AND SAFE USE
If you were stranded in the wild or facing impending apocalypse, and could outfit yourself with one implement, you would be wise to choose the ax: part tool, part weapon.
PICK A LOCK
Picking locks is the rare hobby that feels illegal even though it isn’t. Beyond the utility this skill provides, it’s a good lesson in safety. Pick your own locks and you’ll realize the flaws in your home’s security, which could lead you to consider other methods of theft-deterrence.
1: GET a basic lock-picking kit; one that’s small enough to fit in your wallet is great. Choose one with a tension wrench and a basic rake.
2: INSERT the tension wrench into the keyhole and apply light pressure in the direction that the lock needs to turn. Use just enough pressure to hold the tension wrench in position.
3: INSERT the rake in the keyhole at the top while maintaining pressure on the tension wrench.
Only pick locks on doors you have a legal right to open.
4: USE an elliptical motion to drag the rake along the upper interior of the lock.
5: CONTINUE raking your pick and varying force on your tension wrench until the lock breaks free and the tension wrench turns the deadbolt.
TIE ESSENTIAL KNOTS
Beyond tying your shoes, it’s altogether possible the only knots you know are the ones you make up on the spot. To the uninformed, complex knots seem like magic tricks. But you don’t need to improvise the next time you lash something down. Practice this handy arsenal of knots instead.
1: SQUARE knot—Also known as the reef knot, this is your best bet to connect two different ropes together for added length.
2: BOWLINE—One of the most important knots for sailors, this is perfect for forming a strong loop capable of holding heavy loads.
3: TWO half-hitches—This is ideal for tying anchor points or binding rope to objects, posts, and trees.
4: TAUT line hitch—Similar to the two half-hitches knot, this adds an adjustable hitch that allows you to lengthen or shorten your line under load. Perfect for attaching tent stakes to rainfly lines.
5: CLOVE hitch—Another binding knot, useful to create a solid anchor point and the best knot for tying logs together when making a raft.
6: FIGURE eight knot—One of the simplest knots you can learn, this acts as a stopper for climbers and sailors who don’t want ropes to slip out of retaining devices like pulleys.
7: SHEET bend—Use this instead of the square knot when you need to tie two ropes together, but the ropes are made of different materials or are different widths.
BREAK DOWN A DOOR
Kicking down a door is almost never the best way to open a locked door. Call a locksmith, pick the lock, or attempt to crawl in a window. But let’s say it’s an emergency. You’re in a burning house and you need to escape through a locked door. You can’t stand there fiddling with the lock! What to do? Be a man, dammit! Break down that door! You know you’ve always wanted to.
THINGS EVERY MAN SHOULD KEEP IN THE CAR
Keeping these items in your vehicle can save you time and discomfort, and perhaps even your life, should emergency arise.
• Paper maps
• Snacks
• Seat belt cutter
• Flashlight
• Cell phone charger/extra charged battery
• Portable air compressor
• Windshield wiper fluid
• Roadside flares
• Jumper cables
• Tow strap
Additional Items for Winter and Emergencies
• Shovel
• Kitty litter
• Candles for heat
• Ice scraper
• Hat and gloves
• Tire chains
• Water
• First aid kit
• Warm blankets
• Small fire extinguisher
HOW A CAR ENGINE WORKS
If you use a car every day but have no clue how it works, today is the day that changes. Here is the heart of a car: the internal combustion engine.
1: Engine block
2: Cylinder head
3: Piston
4: Connecting rod
5: Crankshaft
6: Crankcase
7: Camshaft
8: Timing chain
9: Valve
10: Spark plug
An internal combustion engine gets its name because fuel and air combust inside the engine to create energy to move pistons, which in turn move the car. This differs from an external combustion engine (like a steam engine), which is powered by energy created from burning fuel outside the engine.
ANATOMY OF A CAR ENGINE 
Engine Block
THE ENGINE block is the foundation of an engine. Most are cast from aluminum alloy or iron. The engine block is also referred to as the cylinder block because of the cylinders that are cast into the structure. The cylinder is where the pistons slide up and down; the more cylinders an engine has the more powerful it is.
Combustion Chamber
THIS IS where the magic happens. Fuel, air, pressure, and electricity create a small explosion that moves the car’s pistons up and down. The “walls” of the combustion chamber are made up of the cylinder, piston, and cylinder head.
Cylinder Head
THIS PIECE of metal sits over the engine’s cylinders. A head gasket seals the joint between the cylinder head and cylinder block. Valves, spark plugs, and fuel injectors are also mounted to the cylinder head.
Piston
PISTONS MOVE up and down the cylinder and look like soup cans. When fuel ignites in the combustion chamber, the force pushes the piston down, which moves the crankshaft.
THIS CONVERTS the motion of the pistons into rotational motion to move the car. At the front end, the crankshaft connects to belts that deliver power to other parts of the car via the camshaft; at the back, the crankshaft connects to the drive train, which transfers power to the wheels. At each end, oil seals called “O-rings” prevent oil from leaking.
THE CRANKSHAFT resides in the crankcase. The area at the bottom of a crankcase is the oil pan; that’s where your engine’s oil is stored. Inside, you’ll find a pump that squirts oil onto the crankshaft, bearings, and cylinder walls to lubricate the piston stroke. The oil drips down into the pan to begin the process again.
Camshaft
THE CAMSHAFT is the brain of the engine. It works in conjunction with the crankshaft via a timing belt to open and close valves for optimal performance.
Timing System
THE CAMSHAFT and crankshaft coordinate their movements via a timing belt or chain, which holds them in the same relative position at all times.
Valves
INTAKE VALVES bring air and fuel into the combustion chamber. Outtake valves let out the exhaust from the combustion. Cars typically have one of each; most high-performing cars (like Jaguars or Maseratis) have four valves per cylinder. Multi-valve systems allow the car to “breathe” better, which improves engine performance.
Fuel Injectors
BEFORE THE 1980s, carburetors supplied fuel to the combustion chamber. Today, cars use direct fuel injection, which sprays fuel directly into the cylinder, or mixes fuel with air just before it enters the cylinder.
Spark Plug
ABOVE EACH cylinder is a spark plug. When it sparks, it ignites the compressed fuel and air, causing the mini-explosion that pushes the piston down.
THE FOUR-STROKE CYCLE
1: INTAKE Stroke. The piston lowers in the cylinder, sucking air into the cylinder through the intake valve while the fuel injector simultaneously sprays fuel in the cylinder.
2: COMPRESSION Stroke. The valves close, and crankshaft moves the piston up, compressing the air–fuel mixture.
3: COMBUSTION Stroke (Power Stroke). When the piston reaches the top, the spark plug sparks, igniting the air–fuel mixture. The resulting combustion forces the piston to the bottom of the cylinder again.
4: EXHAUST Stroke. When the piston reaches the bottom, the exhaust valve opens up. The piston comes back up, forcing the exhaust out of the cylinder.
DRIVE A STICK SHIFT
Driving with a stick shift is becoming a lost art. Today only 4% of new cars in the US are sold with manual transmissions. You never know when you’ll need to know how to operate one. But the best reason to drive stick is that it’s just plain fun.
GET FAMILIAR WITH YOUR COCKPIT 
A: Tachometer
B: Brake pedal
C: Gas pedal
D: Gearshift knob
E: Clutch pedal
CLUTCH, BRAKE, gas. The clutch pedal is on the far left; you press it when you shift gears. The brake is in the middle. The pedal on the right is the gas, and it works like the gas on an automatic transmission. You now have to use both feet when driving: your left foot to work the clutch and your right foot to press the brake and gas.
The gearshifter
MOST MODERN manual transmission vehicles come with six gears: first through fifth gears, and then reverse.
The tachometer
THE TACHOMETER shows you how many revolutions per minute your engine’s crankshaft is going. Keep an eye on this; it will tell you generally when to shift gears.
GETTING THE CAR GOING
THE MOST intimidating part of driving a stick shift is getting the car into first gear. It takes a while to figure out how much you need to press down on the gas and how slowly you need to disengage the clutch for the gears to catch. Accept that you will stall the car. It’s okay. It’s your initiation into the Brotherhood of the Manual Transmission.
PRESS IN the clutch and brake pedal, and start the car. To start a manual transmission car, press the clutch while you turn the ignition switch. While you don’t need to have your foot on the brake to start the car, it’s a good habit to keep.
1: DEPRESS the clutch completely with your left foot and the brake with your right foot. Shift into first gear and start car.
2: SLOWLY lift left foot from clutch while pushing gently on gas with right foot.
3: NEVER shift gears without fully depressing the clutch pedal. Failing to do so will result in a horrific grinding sound and regular trips to the transmission shop.
When you drive with a stick shift you actually feel like you’re part of the car, and you’re attuned to its vibrations and noises. It makes driving a joy instead of a chore.
4: KEEP the clutch pedal and brake pushed down. Don’t take your left foot off the clutch or you’ll stall out. Keep the brake depressed as well.
5: MOVE your right foot off the brake and onto the gas pedal. At the same time, start to release the clutch with your left foot. This is the tricky part. Slowly press the gas while you let up on the clutch. Don’t stop pressing on the gas or you’ll stall—keep light pressure on the pedal so the tachometer stays around 1,500–2,000 rpm. If all goes well, you should feel the gears “bite” or take hold of the spinning engine and you’ll start slowly moving forward. When you’re rolling, let up on the clutch completely.
6: COME to a stop. To stop, press down on the clutch with your left foot and the brake with your right foot at the same time.
7: THIS is the same process you’ll use to back up, only you’ll shift to reverse.
1: TAKE your right foot off the gas pedal, press in the clutch completely with your left foot, and shift into a lower or higher gear. This should be done in one synchronized motion.
2: REMOVE left foot from clutch while pressing on the gas pedal with right foot.
3: ONCE in gear, keep your foot off the clutch.
4: ONCE you get the car moving from a standstill into first gear, you’ve mastered 90% of stick shift driving. Upshifting into other gears is a breeze. Do it when the tachometer hits about 3,000 rpm. If you shift too soon, you’ll feel the car shudder; downshift to keep it from stalling.
Practice in a parking lot when you’re first starting out.
1: TAKE your right foot off the gas pedal and press the clutch all the way down with left foot and move gearshifter fully to the next gear in one synchronized motion.
2: RELEASE clutch pedal while simultaneously pressing down on the gas pedal with right foot.
3: REMOVE your foot from the clutch pedal once you’re in gear and continue to press the gas.
Use the same process to downshift as your car slows and the tachometer drops to around 1,000 rpm, but release your foot from the gas pedal.
Stopping
YOU CAN slow your car down by downshifting, but it takes a toll on your clutch and transmission. Instead, shift to neutral and use the brake, or press in the clutch and the brake at the same time.
Parking
THE EMERGENCY brake is your friend. Set it every time you park your car. For added safety, leave the car in first gear.
JUMP-START A CAR
You never know when you’ll need this knowledge to aid a friend, help a damsel in distress, or get yourself out of a jam. To avoid looking like a putz—or shocking yourself—when you jump a car, follow this guide.
1: PULL jumper car next to car with dead battery. Make sure both cars are turned off and pop their hoods.
2: CONNECT one end of the red (positive) jumper cable to the positive terminal on the stalled battery.
3: CONNECT the other red (positive) cable clamp to the positive terminal of the good battery.
If you turn the ignition and hear the engine cranking, a dead battery isn’t your problem and jump starting it won’t do a darn thing. However, if you turn the key and the car does absolutely nothing, then there’s a good chance you have a dead battery on your hands and jumping it may be your ticket to getting back on the road.
4: CONNECT one end of the black (negative) jumper cable to the negative terminal of the good battery.
5: CONNECT the other black (negative) cable to a clean, unpainted metal surface under the disabled car’s hood. Somewhere on the engine block is a good place. Do not connect the negative cable to the negative terminal of the dead battery.
6: START the good car and run it for two to three minutes before starting the disabled car. Remove the cables in the reverse order of how you connected them. Keep the jumped car running for at least thirty minutes to recharge the battery.
CHANGE A FLAT TIRE
Maybe you have roadside assistance, maybe you don’t. Either way, learn how to change a flat tire yourself. You never know when you, a loved one, or a stranger will need the help.
1: PARK car on flat surface, put on emergency brake and hazard lights, set up reflective warning triangle, put block on tire diagonally opposite flat tire, and remove spare tire from car (make sure it’s inflated).
2: REMOVE hubcap so you can get to the lug nuts. Loosen nuts with lug wrench. Don’t take any of them off yet—loosen just enough to “crack” them.
3: PLACE jack underneath car at a sturdy part of the frame. Check your owner’s manual for correct placement. Turn crank at end of jack by hand until it contacts the frame.
4: ADD jack handle for leverage. Crank handle until wheel is high enough above the ground to remove the tire. Don’t stick your hands or legs under the car—it could fall and injure you.
5: REMOVE lug nuts from wheel by turning them counterclockwise, and keep them in your hubcap so they don’t roll away. Remove flat tire and lay flat. You don’t want it to roll away, either.
6: LINE up spare tire with wheel studs and place on car. Once wheel is on, replace the lug nuts and tighten them by hand, and then with your lug wrench, until you meet firm resistance.
You can find specs on the proper torque for lug nuts in your car’s owner’s manual.
7: LOWER jack until wheel is firmly on the ground. Finish tightening your lug nuts. To get the lug nuts on as tightly as possible, unleash the power of the star pattern.
8: SPARE tires aren’t supposed to be driven on for long distances or at high speeds, so you need to drive slowly and get your flat tire fixed and replaced as soon as possible.
CONTROL CAR SKIDS
Annually, over 100,000 injuries occur from car accidents on snowy or icy pavement. It’s vital to have the skills necessary for driving safely in inclement conditions. Here are the five most common skids and how to recover from them.
1. WHEELSPIN
Take foot off gas.
WHEELSPIN OCCURS when you accelerate too quickly for the available traction. The tires will start to spin at a faster rate than the vehicle is actually traveling. The cure is simple: just back off the throttle until the tires regain traction, and ramp up more slowly next time.
2. WHEEL LOCKUP
Take foot off brake.
WHEEL LOCKUP occurs when you brake too aggressively for the surface you’re on: the tires will stop turning while the vehicle continues to move. The solution is to release the brakes until the tires start to turn again. You may need to release the brakes completely, and brake again more softly. You can often brake fairly hard on a slippery road, as long as you do it smoothly. If you suddenly go from 0% to 50% brake on the snow, for example, they may lock up. But if you build up brake pressure progressively, you might brake well beyond 50% on the same surface.
ANTI-LOCK BRAKE Systems (ABS) will not allow your wheels to lock up; they’ll pulsate brake pressure at all four wheels so that the tires keep turning. On a loose surface, your car may not decelerate very well, and you’ll need to leave extra braking and following distances to compensate.
3. UNDERSTEER
Take foot off gas and gently apply brakes. Slightly steer where you want to go. You have the most grip with slight steering inputs.
AN UNDERSTEER skid occurs when the front tires lose grip, and the car is unable to turn a corner. It’s also referred to as “plowing” or “pushing,” and it occurs when you enter a corner with too much speed for the conditions. If you’re doing 70 mph in a 30 mph corner, unfortunately it’s all over… hope for something soft to hit. If you’re only slightly too hot coming into a corner, let off of the gas and apply the brakes gently, while looking where you want the car to go at all times.
SPINNING THE front tires can also cause understeer. In a front-wheel drive car, don’t spin the tires if you want to have any chance of turning. Locking the front tires will also cause understeer; if you’re braking aggressively in any vehicle and trying to turn, you’ll need to release the brakes somewhat in order to steer the car.
RESIST THE temptation to give the car more actual steering when you enter an understeer skid. It’s the natural thing to do—“The car won’t turn, so I’ll turn more!”—but the problem needs to be fixed with the pedals and not with your hands. You have the best grip with slight steering inputs—if your front tires are turned at high angles there’s very little chance they’ll do what you want.
4. OVERSTEER
• Rear-Drive Biased Cars—Take foot off gas.
• Front-Drive Biased Cars—Take foot off of brakes and gently apply gas.
• Slightly steer where you want to go. You have the most grip with slight steering inputs.
AN OVERSTEER skid occurs when the rear tires lose grip, and the rear of the vehicle starts to slide sideways. This often occurs because of wheelspin in rear-wheel drive (and some all-wheel drive) vehicles, and the solution in that case is to back off the throttle, look where you want to go, and slightly steer in that direction.
OVERSTEER ALSO occurs fairly often when you’re going too fast for the conditions, and apply brakes while turning a corner. This will shift much of the vehicle’s weight onto the front tires and off of the rear. The rear will start to come around simply because there is no weight on those tires, especially in pickup trucks, front-wheel-drive cars, or other vehicles that are naturally light in the back. This happens going downhill around corners for the same reason. Again, the solution is to look down the road where you want to go, release the brakes, and even accelerate a little to put some weight back onto the rear tires to stop them from sliding.
5. COUNTERSKID
• Rear-Drive Biased Cars—Take foot off gas.
• Front-Drive Biased Cars—Take foot off of brakes and gently apply gas.
• Slightly steer where you want to go. You have the most grip with slight steering inputs.
• As the vehicle straightens out, straighten the wheel so that the tires are always pointed down the road.
KNOWN AS “fishtailing” or “tankslapping,” counterskids occur when you have met with oversteer and failed to correct appropriately. The rear end of the vehicle skids back and forth, often building momentum with each swing. If you don’t fix the first or second skid, you’ll often generate enough energy to make the third skid violent and difficult to recover from. Take your feet off both pedals and focus on catching up on the steering. Braking or accelerating will just compound your problems.
LOOK DOWN the road and only use enough corrective steering to point the front tires where you want to go. As the vehicle straightens out, straighten the wheel so that the tires are always pointed down the road. Counterskids most often happen when drivers correct late, overcorrect, and then repeat this mistake until they’re off the road. Your vision is the key. Regain control of the steering, don’t let the car bounce back and forth, and you’ll be fine.