Kraków

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If you believe the legends, Kraków was founded on the defeat of a dragon, and it’s true a mythical atmosphere permeates its attractive streets and squares. Wawel Castle is a major drawcard, while the Old Town contains soaring churches, impressive museums and the vast Rynek Główny, Europe’s largest market square. However, there’s more to the former royal capital than history and nightlife. As you walk through the Old Town, you’ll sometimes find yourself overwhelmed by the harmony of a quiet back street, the ‘just so’ nature of the architecture and light.

Kraków – Old Town & Wawel

1Top Sights

1Collegium MaiusA2

2Galicia Jewish MuseumD6

3Rynek UndergroundB2

4St Mary's BasilicaB2

5Wawel CathedralA5

6Wawel Royal CastleB5

1Sights

7Cloth HallB2

8Jewish MuseumD6

4Sleeping

9Good Bye Lenin HostelD5

10Hotel EdenD6

11Mundo HostelC4

5Eating

12GlonojadC1

13Marchewka z GroszkiemD7

14Restauracja Pod NorenamiA2

6Drinking & Nightlife

15AlchemiaC5

16Café Camelot B2

17Café BunkierA2

18Forum PrzestrzenieA7

3Entertainment

19Filharmonia KrakowskaA3

20Harris Piano Jazz BarA2

21Piec' ArtA2

1Sights

Wawel Hill

South of Old Town, this hilltop location is enveloped in the heady atmosphere of Polish history perhaps more than any other site in the country. Its great castle was the seat of the kings for over 500 years from the early days of the Polish state.

oWawel Royal CastleCASTLE

(Zamek Królewski na Wawelu; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %Wawel Visitor Centre 12 422 5155; www.wawel.krakow.pl; Wawel Hill; grounds admission free, attractions priced separately; hgrounds 6am-dusk; j6, 8, 10, 13, 18)

As the political and cultural heart of Poland through the 16th century, Wawel Castle is a potent symbol of national identity. It's now a museum containing five separate sections: the Crown Treasury & Armoury; the State Rooms; the Royal Private Apartments; Lost Wawel; and the Exhibition of Oriental Art. Each requires a separate ticket. Of the five, the State Rooms and the Royal Private Apartments are most impressive.

Leonardo da Vinci's masterpiece, The Lady with an Ermine (adult/concession 10/8zł; 9.30am-5pm Tue-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat & Sun), is on display at Wawel Castle for the foreseeable future as the painting's permanent home, the Czartoryski Museum, is undergoing a multiyear renovation. Along with the Mona Lisa, the 'Lady' is one of a handful of da Vinci portraits of women. The painting has had a remarkable history. It was stolen from Kraków by the Germans in WWII and was returned by the Americans after the war in 1946.

oWawel CathedralCHURCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %12 429 9515; www.katedra-wawelska.pl; Wawel 3, Wawel Hill; cathedral free, combined entry for crypts, bell tower & museum adult/concession 12/7zł; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat, from 12.30pm Sun; j6, 8, 10, 13, 18)

The Royal Cathedral has witnessed many coronations, funerals and burials of Poland’s monarchs and strongmen over the centuries. This is the third church on this site, consecrated in 1364. The original was founded in the 11th century by King Bolesław I Chrobry and replaced with a Romanesque construction around 1140. When that burned down in 1305, only the Crypt of St Leonard survived. Highlights include the Holy Cross Chapel, Sigismund Chapel, Sigismund Bell, and the Crypt of St Leonard and Royal Crypts.

Old Town

Kraków's atmospheric Old Town is packed with historical buildings and monuments, including several museums and many churches. It’s been included on Unesco’s World Heritage List since 1978, and is largely car-free.

oSt Mary's BasilicaCHURCH

(Basilica of the Assumption of Our Lady; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %12 422 0737; www.mariacki.com; Plac Mariacki 5, Rynek Główny; adult/concession church 10/5zł, tower 15/10zł; h11.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sat, 2-5.30pm Sun; j1, 6, 8, 13, 18)

Overlooking Rynek Główny, this striking brick church, best known simply as St Mary’s, is dominated by two towers of different heights. The first church here was built in the 1220s and following its destruction during a Tatar raid, construction of the basilica began. Tour the exquisite interior, with its remarkable carved wooden altarpiece, and in summer climb the tower for excellent views. Don't miss the hourly hejnał (bugle call) from the taller tower.

oRynek UndergroundMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %12 426 5060; www.podziemiarynku.com; Rynek Główny 1; adult/concession 19/16zł, Tue free; h10am-8pm Mon, to 4pm Tue, to 10pm Wed-Sun; j1, 6, 8, 13, 18)

This fascinating attraction beneath the market square consists of an underground route through medieval market stalls and other long-forgotten chambers. The ‘Middle Ages meets 21st century’ experience is enhanced by holograms and audiovisual wizardry. Buy tickets at an office on the western side of the Cloth Hall (Sukiennice 21), where an electronic board shows tour times and tickets available.

Cloth HallHISTORIC BUILDING

(Sukiennice; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.museum.krakow.pl; Rynek Główny 1/3; j1, 6, 8, 13, 18)F

Dominating the middle of Rynek Główny, this building was once the centre of Kraków’s medieval clothing trade. Created in the early 14th century when a roof was put over two rows of stalls, it was extended into a 108m-long Gothic structure, then rebuilt in Renaissance style after a 1555 fire; the arcades were a late-19th-century addition.

oCollegium MaiusHISTORIC BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %12 663 1521; www.maius.uj.edu.pl; ul Jagiellońska 15; adult/concession 16/12zł; h10am-2.20pm Mon-Fri, to 1.20pm Sat; j2, 13, 18, 20)

The Collegium Maius, built as part of the Kraków Academy (now the Jagiellonian University), is the oldest surviving university building in Poland, and one of the best examples of 15th-century Gothic architecture in the city. It has a magnificent arcaded courtyard (7am to dusk) and a fascinating university collection. Visit is by guided-tour only.

Kazimierz & Podgórze

For much of its early history, the former mixed Jewish and Christian quarter of Kazimierz was an independent town with its own municipal charter and laws. Though the ethnic make-up of Kazimierz is now wholly different, the architecture gives hints of the past, with clearly distinguishable elements of what were Christian and Jewish areas.

Podgórze, across the river from Kazimierz, would pique few travellers’ curiosities if it wasn’t for the notorious role it played during WWII. It was here that the Germans herded some 16,000 Jews into a ghetto, centred around today's Plac Bohaterów Getta. Both ghetto and camp were chillingly recreated in the movie Schindler’s List.

oSchindler’s FactoryMUSEUM

(Fabryka Schindlera; GOOGLE MAP ; %12 257 0096; www.mhk.pl; ul Lipowa 4; adult/concession 21/16zł, free Mon; h10am-4pm Mon, 9am-8pm Tue-Sun; j3, 9, 19, 24, 50)

This impressive interactive museum covers the Nazi occupation of Kraków in WWII. It’s housed in the former enamel factory of Oskar Schindler, the German industrialist who famously saved the lives of members of his Jewish labour force during the Holocaust. Well-organised, innovative exhibits tell the moving story of the city from 1939 to 1945.

oGalicia Jewish MuseumMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %12 421 6842; www.galiciajewishmuseum.org; ul Dajwór 18; adult/concession 15/10zł; h10am-6pm; j3, 9, 19, 24, 50)

This museum both commemorates Jewish victims of the Holocaust and celebrates the Jewish culture and history of the former Austro-Hungarian region of Galicia. It features an impressive photographic exhibition depicting modern-day remnants of southeastern Poland’s once-thriving Jewish community, called ‘Traces of Memory’, along with video testimony of survivors and regular temporary exhibits.

Jewish MuseumMUSEUM

(Old Synagogue; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %12 422 0962; www.mhk.pl; ul Szeroka 24; adult/concession 9/7zł, free Mon; h10am-2pm Mon, 9am-5pm Tue-Sun; j3, 9, 19, 24, 50)

This museum is housed in the Old Synagogue, which dates to the 15th century. The prayer hall, complete with a reconstructed bimah (raised platform at the centre where the Torah is read) and the original aron kodesh (the niche in the eastern wall where Torah scrolls are kept), houses an exhibition of liturgical objects.

Outside the Centre

oWieliczka Salt MineMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %12 278 7302; www.kopalnia.pl; ul Daniłowicza 10; adult/concession 79/64zł; h7.30am-7.30pm Apr-Oct, 8am-5pm Nov-Mar)

Some 14km southeast of Kraków, Wieliczka (vyeh-leech-kah) is famous for its deep salt mine. It’s an eerie world of pits and chambers, and everything within its depths has been carved by hand from salt blocks. The mine has a labyrinth of tunnels, about 300km distributed over nine levels, the deepest being 327m underground. A section of the mine, some 22 chambers connected by galleries, from 64m to 135m below ground, is open to the public by guided tour, and it’s a fascinating trip.

oKościuszko MoundMONUMENT

(Kopiec Kościuszki; GOOGLE MAP ; %12 425 1116; www.kopieckosciuszki.pl; Al Waszyngtona 1; adult/concession 12/10zł; h9am-dusk; j1, 2, 6)

The mound, dedicated to Polish (and American) military hero Tadeusz Kościuszko, was erected between 1820 and 1823, soon after the great man’s death. The mound stands 34m high, and soil from the Polish and American battlefields where Kościuszko fought was placed here. The views over the city are spectacular. The memorial is located in the suburb of Zwierzyniec, just under 3km west of the Old Town.

4Sleeping

oMundo HostelHOSTEL€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %12 422 6113; www.mundohostel.eu; ul Sarego 10; dm 60-65zł, d 170-190zł; iW; j6, 8, 10, 13, 18)

Attractive, well-maintained hostel in a quiet courtyard location neatly placed between the Old Town and Kazimierz. Each room is decorated for a different country; for example, the Tibet room is decked out with colourful prayer flags. Barbecues take place in summer. There's a bright, fully equipped kitchen for do-it-yourself meals.

Good Bye Lenin HostelHOSTEL€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %12 421 2030; www.goodbyelenin.pl; ul Joselewicza 23; dm 40-55zł, d 140zł; pW; j3, 9, 19, 24, 50)

This cheerful place has a cheeky communist theme with absurd paintings and statues mocking the imagery of the era. Most dorm rooms have four to six beds and a small garden out front is popular for lounging and barbecues. The hostel can be tricky to find. It's located in an alley to the right as you approach from ul Starowiślna.

Hotel EdenHOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %12 430 6565; www.hoteleden.pl; ul Ciemna 15; s/d 240/320zł; W; j3, 9, 19, 24, 50)

Located within three meticulously restored 15th-century townhouses, the Eden has comfortable rooms and comes complete with a sauna and the only mikvah (traditional Jewish bath) in Kraków. Kosher meals are available on request.

U Pana CogitoHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %12 269 7200; www.pcogito.pl; ul Bałuckiego 6; s/d/q 240/290/390zł; paiW; j11, 18, 22, 52)

White and cream seem to be the colours of choice at this friendly 14-room hotel in a lovely mansion across the river and southwest of the centre. All rooms have big bathrooms and refrigerators, and for extra privacy, the one apartment has a separate entrance.

5Eating

oGlonojadVEGETARIAN€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %12 346 1677; www.glonojad.com; Plac Matejki 2; mains 16-20zł; h8am-10pm; Wv; j2, 4, 14, 19, 20, 24)

Attractive modern vegetarian restaurant with a great view onto Plac Matejki, just north of the Barbican. The diverse menu has a variety of tasty dishes including samosas, curries, potato pancakes, burritos, gnocchi and soups.

oRestauracja Pod NorenamiASIAN€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %661 219 289; www.podnorenami.pl; ul Krupnicza 6; mains 18-30zł; h10am-10pm; Wv; j2, 4, 8, 13, 14, 18, 20, 24)

This warm and inviting Asian-fusion restaurant is ideal for vegans and vegetarians. The menu pivots from Japanese to Thai and Vietnamese, with lots of spicy noodle and rice dishes, vegetarian sushi and many other choices. Breakfast (served from 10am to noon) has Middle Eastern overtones, with hummus and pita and spicy scrambled eggs. Book in advance.

oMarchewka z GroszkiemPOLISH€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %12 430 0795; www.marchewkazgroszkiem.pl; ul Mostowa 2; mains 20-30zł; h9am-10pm; W; j6, 8, 10, 13)

Traditional Polish cooking, with hints of influence from neighbouring countries like Ukraine (beer), Hungary (wine) and Lithuania. Excellent potato pancakes and a delicious boiled beef with horseradish sauce highlight the menu.

6Drinking & Nightlife

oCafé BunkierCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %12 431 0585; http://en.bunkiercafe.pl; Plac Szczepański 3a; h9am-late; W; j2, 4, 14, 18, 20, 24)

The ‘Bunker’ is a wonderful cafe with a positively enormous glassed-in terrace tacked onto the Bunkier Sztuki (Art Bunker), a cutting-edge gallery northwest of the Rynek. The garden space is heated in winter and seems to always have a buzz. Enter from the Planty.

oCafé Camelot CAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %12 421 0123; www.camelot.pl; ul Św Tomasza 17; h9am-midnight; j2, 4, 14, 19, 20, 24)

For coffee and cake, try this genteel haven hidden around an obscure street corner in the Old Town. Its cosy rooms are cluttered with lace-covered candle-lit tables, and a quirky collection of wooden figurines featuring spiritual or folkloric scenes.

oForum PrzestrzenieBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %514 342 939; www.forumprzestrzenie.com; ul Konopnickiej 28; h10am-2am; W; j11, 18, 22, 52)

In a highly creative re-use of an old communist-era eyesore, the Hotel Forum has been repurposed as a trendy, retro coffee and cocktail bar – and occasional venue for DJs, live music and happenings.

AlchemiaCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %12 421 2200; www.alchemia.com.pl; ul Estery 5; h9am-late; j3, 9, 19, 24, 50)

This Kazimierz venue exudes a shabby-is-the-new-cool look with rough-hewn wooden benches, candlelit tables and a companionable gloom. It hosts occasional live-music gigs and theatrical events through the week.

3Entertainment

oHarris Piano Jazz BarJAZZ

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %12 421 5741; www.harris.krakow.pl; Rynek Główny 28; h1pm-late; j1, 6, 8, 13, 18)

This active jazz haunt is housed in an atmospheric, intimate cellar space. Harris hosts jazz and blues bands most nights of the week from around 9.30pm, but try to arrive an hour earlier to get a seat (or book in advance by phone). Wednesday nights see weekly (free) jam sessions.

Piec' ArtJAZZ

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %12 429 1602; www.piecart.pl; ul Szewska 12; performances 15-20zł; hnoon-late; W; j2, 13, 18, 20)

Dark and inviting, this intimate basement bar is a seductive place for a drink even when it's quiet. Several times a week, there's live acoustic jazz, which makes it all the more appealing.

Filharmonia KrakowskaCLASSICAL MUSIC

(Filharmonia im. Karola Szymanowskiego w Krakowie; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %reservations 12 619 8722, tickets 12 619 8733; www.filharmonia.krakow.pl; ul Zwierzyniecka 1; hbox office 10am-2pm & 3-7pm Tue-Fri; j1, 2, 6)

Home to one of the best orchestras in the country.

Opera KrakowskaOPERA

( GOOGLE MAP ; %12 296 6260; www.opera.krakow.pl; ul Lubicz 48; tickets 20-200zł; h10am-7pm Mon-Fri, or two hours before performances at box office; j4, 10, 14, 20, 52)

The Kraków Opera performs in the strikingly modern red building at the Mogilskie roundabout.

8Information

InfoKraków – Cloth HallTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %12 433 7310; www.infokrakow.pl; Cloth Hall, Rynek Główny 1/3; h9am-7pm May-Sep, to 5pm Oct-Apr; W; j1, 6, 8, 13, 18)

InfoKraków – KazimierzTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %12 422 0471; www.infokrakow.pl; ul Józefa 7; h9am-5pm; j6, 8, 10, 13)

8Getting There & Away

AAir Kraków’s John Paul II International Airport (KRK; GOOGLE MAP ; %information 12 295 5800; www.krakowairport.pl; Kapitana Mieczysława Medweckiego 1, Balice; W) is located in the town of Balice, about 15km west of the centre. The airport terminal hosts several car-hire desks, bank ATMs, and a branch of the InfoKraków tourist information office.

ABus Kraków’s bus station is conveniently located next to the main train station on the fringe of the Old Town. Modern Polski Bus (www.polskibus.com) coaches depart from here to Warsaw (five hours, several daily); check fares and book tickets online.

ATrain Newly remodeled and gleaming Kraków Główny Train Station (Dworzec Główny; GOOGLE MAP ; %information 22 391 9757; www.pkp.pl; Plac Dworcowy; j2, 3, 4, 10, 14, 19, 24, 52), on the northeastern outskirts of the Old Town, handles all international trains and most domestic rail services. Hourly trains make the three-hour run to Warsaw (60zł). Popular international connections include Bratislava (seven hours, one daily), Budapest (10½ hours, one daily), Lviv (7½ to 9½ hours, two daily) and Prague (10 hours, one daily).

8Getting Around

To/from the Airport

ABus Public buses 292 and 208 both run from the airport to Kraków's main bus station (and back) and require a 4zł ticket.

ATrain Trains depart once or twice an hour between 4am and 11.30pm between the airport and Kraków Główny station. On exiting the airport terminal, take a free shuttle bus to a nearby train station for the onward journey. Buy tickets on board the train from a vending machine or the conductor (10zł). The trip takes about 20 minutes.

Public Transport

Kraków has an efficient network of buses and trams that run between 5am and 11pm. Trams are especially handy for moving between the Old Town and Kazimierz.

Two types of individual tickets are available: short-term tickets are valid for 20 minutes and are fine for short journeys, as well as normal 40-minute tickets. Both can be used interchangeably on buses and trams. You can also buy one-/two-/three-day passes for longer stays. Buy tickets from machines located onboard vehicles (have coins ready) or from news kiosks at important stops.

WORTH A TRIP

AUSCHWITZ-BIRKENAU MEMORIAL & MUSEUM

Auschwitz-Birkenau (Auschwitz-Birkenau Miejsce Pamięci i Muzeum; GOOGLE MAP ; %guides 33 844 8100; www.auschwitz.org; ul Wieźniów Oświęcimia 20; tours adult/concession 40/30zł; h8am-7pm Jun-Aug, to 6pm Apr-May, to 5pm Mar & Sep, to 4pm Feb & Oct, to 3pm Jan & Nov, to 2pm Dec) is synonymous with genocide and the Holocaust. More than a million Jews, and many Poles and Roma, were murdered here by the German occupiers during WWII. Both sections of the camp, base camp Auschwitz I and a much larger outlying camp at Birkenau (Auschwitz II), have been preserved and are open for visitors. It's essential to visit both to appreciate the extent and horror of the place.

From April to October it’s compulsory to join a tour if you arrive between 10am and 3pm; book well ahead either via www.visit.auschwitz.org, or by phoning. English-language tours leave at numerous times throughout the day, generally most frequently between 11.30am and 1.30pm, when they operate half-hourly.

The Auschwitz extermination camp was established in April 1940 by the Germans in prewar Polish army barracks on the outskirts of Oświęcim. Auschwitz was originally intended for Polish political prisoners, but the camp was then adapted for the wholesale extermination of the Jews of Europe in fulfilment of Nazi ideology. For this purpose, the much larger camp at Birkenau (Brzezinka) was built 2km west of the original site in 1941 and 1942.

The museum’s visitor centre is at the entrance to the Auschwitz site. Photography and filming are permitted throughout the camp without the use of a flash or stands.

Auschwitz Auschwitz was only partially destroyed by the fleeing Germans, and many of the original brick buildings stand to this day as a bleak testament to the camp’s history. Some 13 of the 30 surviving prison blocks now house museum exhibitions – either general, or dedicated to victims from particular countries or ethnic groups that lost people at Auschwitz.

From the visitor centre in the entrance building, you enter the barbed-wire encampment through the infamous gate, displaying the grimly cynical message in German: ‘Arbeit Macht Frei’ (Work Brings Freedom). The sign is in fact a replica, which replaced the original when it was stolen in late 2009. Though it was recovered within a few days, it had been cut into pieces by the thieves and took 17 months to restore.

Birkenau (Auschwitz II) It was actually at Birkenau, not Auschwitz, that most of the killing took place. Massive (175 hectares) and purpose-built for efficiency, the camp had more than 300 prison barracks – they were actually stables built for horses, but housed 300 people each. Birkenau had four huge gas chambers, complete with crematoria. Each could asphyxiate 2000 people at one time, and there were electric lifts to raise the bodies to the ovens.

Though much of Birkenau was destroyed by the retreating Germans, the size of the place, fenced off with long lines of barbed wire and watchtowers stretching almost as far as your eye can see, will give you some idea of the scale of the crime; climb the tower at the entrance gate to get the full effect.

Getting There For most tourists, the jump-off point for Oświęcim is Kraków. Buses (12zł, 1½ hours, hourly) can be a more convenient option than trains, as they generally drop you off in the parking lot opposite the entrance to Auschwitz. The alternative is catching a train from Kraków (14zł, 1½ hours, hourly) to Oświęcim train station, then walking 1.5km to the museum entrance.

Poland Survival Guide

8Directory A–Z

Accommodation

Poland has a wide choice of accommodation options to suit most budgets, including hotels, pensions and guesthouses, hostels, apartment rentals and camping grounds.

Warsaw is the most expensive place to stay, followed by other large cities. The further away from the big cities you go, the cheaper accommodation gets.

Prices are quoted in złoty, though some larger hotels geared to foreign clients may also quote rates in euros for guests’ convenience. All hotels accept złoty as payment.

The most popular lodging website for Polish hotels is Booking.com. Nearly all of the more popular hotels, as well as pensions and even hostels, will have a listing on the site.

Hostel accommodation is abundant in Kraków. Expect amenities like shared kitchens, laundry facilities and sometimes a lounge and bar, and free wi-fi. Hostels.com (www.hostels.com) maintains an updated inventory of Polish hostels.

Poland has over 500 camping and bivouac sites registered at the Polish Federation of Camping & Caravanning (%22 810 6050; www.pfcc.eu).

ACCOMMODATION PRICE RANGES

In this section we've used the following general price indicators (double room in high season):

€ less than 150zł

€€ 150zł to 400zł

€€€ more than 400zł

Money

The Polish currency is the złoty, abbreviated to zł and pronounced zwo-ti. It is divided into 100 groszy, which are abbreviated to gr.

ATMs are ubiquitous in cities and towns, and even the smallest hamlet is likely to have at least one.

Change money at banks or kantors (private currency-exchange offices). Find these in town centres as well as travel agencies, train stations, post offices and department stores. Rates vary, so it’s best to shop around.

In restaurants, tip 10% of the bill to reward good service. Leave the tip in the pouch the bill is delivered in or hand the money directly to the server.

EATING PRICE RANGES

In this section we've used the following price indicators (for a main meal):

€ less than 20zł

€€ 20zł to 40zł

€€€ more than 40zł

Opening Hours

Most places adhere to the following hours. Museums are usually closed on Mondays, and have shorter hours outside of the high season.

ABanks 9am to 4pm Monday to Friday, 9am to 1pm Saturday

AOffices 9am to 5pm Monday to Friday, 9am to 1pm Saturday

APost Offices 8am to 7pm Monday to Friday, 8am to 1pm Saturday

ARestaurants 11am to 10pm

AShops 8am to 6pm Monday to Friday, 10am to 2pm Saturday

Public Holidays

ANew Year's Day 1 January

AEpiphany 6 January

AEaster Sunday March or April

AEaster Monday March or April

AState Holiday 1 May

AConstitution Day 3 May

APentecost Sunday Seventh Sunday after Easter

ACorpus Christi Ninth Thursday after Easter

AAssumption Day 15 August

AAll Saints' Day 1 November

AIndependence Day 11 November

AChristmas 25 and 26 December

Telephone

All Polish telephone numbers, landline and mobile (cell), have nine digits. Landlines are written 12 345 6789, with the first two numbers corresponding to the former city code. Mobile phone numbers are written 123 456 789.

To call abroad from Poland, dial the international access code (00), then the country code, then the area code (minus any initial zero) and the number.

To dial Poland from abroad, dial your country’s international access code, then 48 (Poland’s country code) and then the unique nine-digit local number.

Poland uses the GSM 900/1800 network, which is compatible with the rest of Europe and Australia but not always with the North American GSM systems – check with your service provider.

Prepaid SIM cards are readily available from telephone provider shop (GSM, Orange etc). No ID is required, and top-ups can be bought at phone shops, newspaper kiosks and even some ATMs.

Wi-fi

Poland is well wired, and the majority of hotels, above a basic pension, offer some form of internet access (normally wi-fi) for you to log on with your own laptop, smartphone or tablet.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Most international flights to Poland arrive at Warsaw's Frédéric Chopin Airport. Warsaw has a second, smaller airport, Warsaw Modlin Airport, 35km north of the city, which handles budget flights. Other important international air gateways include:

Gdańsk Lech Wałęsa Airport (%801 066 808, 52 567 3531; www.airport.gdansk.pl; ul Słowackiego 210)

Katowice Airport (Port Lotniczy Katowice; GOOGLE MAP ; %32 392 7000; www.katowice-airport.com; ul Wolności 90, Pyrzowice; W)

A Kraków John Paul II International Airport

Land

EU-member Poland has open borders (and plenty of rail and road crossings) on its western and southern frontiers with Germany, the Czech Republic and Slovakia. Crossings with EU-member Lithuania, on the northeastern end of the country, are also open.

It's a different story moving east and north into Ukraine, Belarus and Russia's Kaliningrad enclave, which form part of the EU's external border and may require visas and advance planning.

Getting Around

Bus Poland is easily accessible by bus. Most of Poland’s bus transport is operated by the former state bus company, Państwowa Komunikacja Samochodowa (PKS), although deregulation of the bus system has made room for dozens of private operators. One of the best private companies is Polski Bus (www.polskibus.com), which runs a modern fleet to big cities around the country.

Train Poland’s train network is extensive and reasonably priced. Prices of Polish trains can vary greatly, even along the same lines. The Express InterCity trains (marked EIC) tend to be the most expensive, while trains marked TLK can be nearly as fast and much cheaper. Ask at ticket windows for the cheapest tickets available.

Slovenia

Ljubljana

Pop 280,600

Slovenia's capital and largest city also happens to be one of Europe's greenest and most liveable capitals. Indeed, the European Commission awarded Ljubljana with the coveted Green Capital of Europe title for 2016. Car traffic is restricted in the centre, leaving the leafy banks of the emerald-green Ljubljanica River, which flows through the city's heart, free for pedestrians and cyclists.

1Sights

The easiest way to see Ljubljana is on foot. The oldest part of town, with the most important historical buildings and sights (including Ljubljana Castle) lies on the right (east) bank of the Ljubljanica River. The centre, which has the lion’s share of the city’s museums and galleries, is on the left (west) side of the river.

oLjubljana CastleCASTLE

(Ljubljanski Grad; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %01-306 42 93; www.ljubljanskigrad.si; Grajska Planota 1; adult/child incl funicular & castle attractions €8/5, castle attractions only €6/3; hcastle 9am-11pm Jun-Sep, 9am-9pm Apr, May & Oct, 10am-8pm Jan-Mar & Nov, 10am-10pm Dec, castle attractions 9am-9pm Jun-Sep, to 8pm Jan-May & Oct-Nov, 10am-6pm Dec)

Crowning a 375-m-high hill east of the Old Town, the castle is an architectural mishmash, but most of it dates to the early 16th century when it was largely rebuilt after a devastating earthquake. It’s free to ramble around the castle grounds, but you’ll have to pay to enter the Watchtower and the Chapel of St George, to see the worthwhile Exhibition on Slovenian History, to visit the new Puppet Theatre and to take the Time Machine tour.

oNational & University LibraryARCHITECTURE

(Narodna in Univerzitetna Knjižnica (NUK); MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %01-200 11 10; www.nuk.uni-lj.si; Turjaška ulica 1; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat)

This library is designer Jože Plečnik’s masterpiece, completed in 1941. To appreciate this great man’s minimalist design philosophy, enter through the main door (note the horse-head doorknobs) on Turjaška ulica – you’ll find yourself in near darkness, entombed in black marble. As you ascend the steps, you’ll emerge into a colonnade suffused with light – the light of knowledge, according to the architect’s plans.

Triple BridgeBRIDGE

(Tromostovje; MAP GOOGLE MAP )

Running south from the square to the Old Town is the much celebrated Triple Bridge. Originally called Špital (Hospital) Bridge when it built as a single span in 1842, it was nothing spectacular, but between 1929 and 1932 superstar architect Jože Plečnik added the two pedestrian side bridges, furnished all three with stone balustrades and lamps and forced a name change. Stairways on each of the side bridges lead down to the poplar-lined terraces along the Ljubljanica River.

Museum of Contemporary History of SloveniaMUSEUM

(Muzej Novejše Zgodovine Slovenije; GOOGLE MAP ; %01-300 96 10; www.muzej-nz.si; Celovška cesta 23; adult/student €3.50/2.50, 1st Sun of month free; h10am-6pm Tue-Sat)

This museum, housed in the 18th-century Cekin Mansion (Grad Cekinov), traces the history of Slovenia in the 20th century through multimedia and artefacts. Note the contrast between the sober earnestness of the communist-era rooms and the exuberant, logo-mad commercialism of the industrial exhibits. The sections focusing on Ljubljana under occupation during WWII are very effective.

4Sleeping

Accommodation prices in Ljubljana are the highest in the country, so expect to shell out a bit more here than elsewhere. For tighter budgets, there is a growing number of high-quality modern hostels, some with private singles and doubles. The website of the Tourist Information Centre (www.visitljubljana.com) maintains a comprehensive list of hotels and sleeping options

oHostel VrbaHOSTEL€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %064 133 555; www.hostelvrba.si; Gradaška ulica 10; dm €15-18, d €40; iW)

Probably our favourite new budget accommodation in Ljubljana, this nine-room hostel on the Gradiščica Canal is just opposite the bars and restaurants of delightful Trnovo. There are three doubles, dorms with four to eight beds, hardwood floors and always a warm welcome. Free bikes, too, in summer.

oHostel TresorHOSTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %01-200 90 60; www.hostel-tresor.si; Čopova ulica 38; dm €15-24, s/d €40/70; aiW)

This new 28-room hostel in the heart of Center is housed in a Secessionist-style former bank, and the money theme continues right into rooms named after currencies and financial aphorisms on the walls. Dorms have between four and 12 beds but are spacious. The communal areas (we love the atrium) are stunning; breakfast is in the vaults.

oAdora HotelHOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %082 057 240; www.adorahotel.si/en; Rožna ulica 7; s €68-109, d €78-119, apt €110-150; paiW)

This small hotel below Gornji trg is a welcome addition to accommodation in the Old Town. The 10 rooms are small but fully equipped, with lovely hardwood floors and tasteful furnishings. The breakfast room looks out onto a small garden, bikes are free for guest use and the staff are overwhelmingly friendly and helpful.

Ljubljana

1Top Sights

1Ljubljana CastleB4

2National & University LibraryA5

1Sights

3Triple BridgeB3

4Sleeping

4Adora HotelB5

5Hostel TresorA3

6Hostel VrbaA6

5Eating

7Ajdovo ZrnoB3

8Druga ViolinaB5

9JulijaB5

10Prince of OrangeC3

6Drinking & Nightlife

11Klub DaktariC4

12Le Petit CaféA5

13Metelkova MestoD1

14NebotičnikA3

15Postaja CentralnaB3

3Entertainment

16KrižankeA5

17Sax PubA6

18Slovenia Philharmonic HallA4

5Eating

oPrince of OrangeITALIAN€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %083 802 447; Komenskega ulica 30; dishes €4.50-9, set lunch from €7; h7.30am-9.30pm Mon-Thu, 9.30am-midnight Fri, 10am-2pm Sat)

This true find – a bright and airy cafe just above Trubarjeva cesta – serves outstanding shop-made soups and bruschetta. Ask for some of the farmer's goat cheese and about the link between the cafe and England King William III (the pub sign on the wall is a clue).

oDruga ViolinaSLOVENIAN€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %082 052 506; Stari trg 21; mains €5-9, set lunch from €6; h8am-midnight)

Just opposite the Academy of Music, the 'Second Fiddle' is an extremely pleasant and affordable place for a meal in the Old Town. There are lots of very Slovenian dishes like ajdova kaša z jurčki (buckwheat groats with ceps) and obara (a thick stew of chicken and vegetables) on the menu. It's a social enterprise designed to help those with disabilities.

Ajdovo ZrnoVEGAN€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %041 832 446; www.ajdovo-zrno.si; Trubarjeva cesta 7; mains €4-6, set lunch €7.50; h10am-7pm Mon-Fri; v)

'Buckwheat Grain' serves soups, lots of different salads and baked vegetarian dishes. It also has terrific, freshly squeezed juices. Enter from Mali trg.

JulijaINTERNATIONAL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %01-425 64 63; http://julijarestaurant.com; Stari trg 9; mains €9-19; hnoon-10pm)

This is arguably the best of a trio of restaurants standing side by side on touristy Stari trg. We love the baroque decor and the three-course set lunches (€9) served on the sidewalk terrace. The cuisine here revolves around risottos and pastas, though the duck confit with polenta and sour cherries was one of the best meals this visit.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Le Petit CaféCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %01-251 25 75; www.lepetit.si; Trg Francoske Revolucije 4; h7.30am-midnight; W)

Just opposite the Križanke, this pleasant, boho place offers great coffee and a wide range of breakfast goodies, lunches and light meals, plus an excellent restaurant on the 1st floor with a provincial-style decor and menu.

oKlub DaktariBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %059 055 538; www.daktari.si; Krekov trg 7; h8am-1am Mon-Sat, 9am-midnight Sun)

This rabbit-warren of a watering hole at the foot of the funicular to Ljubljana Castle is so chilled there’s practically frost on the windows. The décor is retro-distressed, with shelves full of old books and a player piano in the corner. More of a cultural centre than a club, Daktari hosts live-music sets and an eclectic mix of other cultural events.

oPostaja CentralnaCOCKTAIL BAR

(Central Station; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %059 190 400; www.centralnapostaja.com; Trubarjeva cesta 23; h8am-1am Mon-Wed, to 3am Thu & Fri, 9am-3am Sat)

This classy place tries — and largely succeeds – at being just about everything to everyone. It’s a slightly louche cocktail bar, with street-art tags on the walls and lots of dazzling neon, a club with DJs at the weekend, a cafe with its own homemade fruit teas and a restaurant with burgers.

oNebotičnikCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %040 233 078, 040 601 787; www.neboticnik.si; 11th fl, Štefanova ulica 1; h10pm-3am Thu-Sat)

An elegant old cafe with its breathtaking terrace atop Ljubljana's famed art-deco Skyscraper (1933), its spectacular 360-degree views attract punters throughout the day. Ljubljana's beau monde returns at night to party in the flashy club and lounge on the floor below — No 11.

Metelkova MestoCLUB

(Metelkova Town; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.metelkovamesto.org; Masarykova cesta 24)

This ex-army garrison taken over by squatters in the 1990s and converted into a free-living commune comes to life with concerts and performances generally after midnight daily in summer and on Friday and Saturday the rest of the year. While it's certainly not for the genteel, and the quality of the acts varies, there's usually a little of something for everyone.

3Entertainment

oSax PubJAZZ

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %040 168 804; www.saxhostelljubljana.com/sax-pub.html; Eipprova ulica 7; h8am-1am)

More than a quarter-century in Trnovo and decorated with colourful murals and graffiti outside, the tiny and convivial Sax has live jazz as well as blues, folk and hip-hop at 8pm on Thursday year-round. Canned stuff rules at other times.

Slovenia Philharmonic HallCLASSICAL MUSIC

(Slovenska Filharmonija; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %01-241 08 00; www.filharmonija.si; Kongresni trg 10; hbox office 11am-1pm & 3-6pm Mon-Fri)

Home to the Slovenian Philharmonic founded in 1701, this small but very atmospheric venue in the southeast corner of Kongresni trg also stages concerts and hosts performances of the Slovenian Chamber Choir (Slovenski Komorni Zbor) founded in 1991. Haydn, Beethoven and Brahms were honorary Philharmonic members, and Gustav Mahler was resident conductor for a season (1881–82).

KrižankePERFORMING ARTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %01-241 60 00, box office 01-241 60 26; www.ljubljanafestival.si; Trg Francoske Revolucije 1-2; hbox office 10am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat Apr-Sep, noon-5pm Mon-Fri Oct-Mar, 1hr before performance)

The open-air theatre seating more than 1200 spectators at this sprawling 18th-century monastery, remodelled by Plečnik in the 1950s, hosts the events of the summer Ljubljana Festival. The smaller Knights Hall (Viteška Dvorana) is the venue for chamber concerts.

8Information

Ljubljana Tourist Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

(TIC; GOOGLE MAP ; %01-306 12 15; www.visitljubljana.com; Adamič-Lundrovo nabrežje 2; h8am-9pm Jun-Sep, to 7pm Oct-May)

Knowledgeable and enthusiastic staff dispense information, maps and useful literature and help with accommodation. Maintains an excellent website.

Slovenian Tourist Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

(STIC; GOOGLE MAP ; %01-306 45 76; www.slovenia.info; Krekov trg 10; h8am-9pm Jun-Sep, 8am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat & Sun Oct-May)

Good source of information for the rest of Slovenia, with internet and bicycle rental also available.

8Getting There & Away

Ljubljana is Slovenia's main travel hub.

ABus Buses to destinations both within Slovenia and abroad leave from the bus station (Avtobusna Postaja Ljubljana; GOOGLE MAP ; %01-234 46 00; www.ap-ljubljana.si; Trg Osvobodilne Fronte 4; h5am-10.30pm Mon-Sat, 5.30am-10.30pm Sun) just next to the train station. Next to the ticket windows are multilingual information phones and a touch-screen computer. There’s another touch-screen computer outside too.

ATrain Domestic and international trains arrive at and depart from central Ljubljana’s train station (Železniška Postaja; GOOGLE MAP ; %01-291 33 32; www.slo-zeleznice.si; Trg Osvobodilne Fronte 6; h5am-10pm), where you’ll find a separate information centre on the way to the platforms. Buy domestic tickets from windows No 1 to 8 and international ones from either window No 9 or the information centre.

8Getting Around

To/from the Airport

The cheapest way to Ljubljana’s Jože Pučnik Airport, 27km away, is by public bus (€4.10, 45 minutes) from stop No 28 at the bus station. These run at 5.20am and hourly from 6.10am to 8.10pm Monday to Friday; at the weekend there’s a bus at 6.10am and then one every two hours from 9.10am to 7.10pm. Buy tickets from the driver.

Two airport-shuttle services that get consistently good reviews are GoOpti (%01-320 45 30; www.goopti.com) and Markun Shuttle ( GOOGLE MAP ; %041 041 792 865, 051 321 414; www.prevozi-markun.com), which will transfer you from Brnik to central Ljubljana for €9 in half an hour. Book by phone or online.

Public Transport

Ljubljana’s city buses operate every five to 15 minutes from 5am (6am on Sunday) to around 10.30pm. There are also a half-dozen night buses. A flat fare of €1.20 (good for 90 minutes of unlimited travel, including transfers) is paid with a stored-value magnetic Urbana card, which can be purchased at newsstands and tourist offices.

Lake Bled & the Julian Alps

Bled

Pop 10,900

Yes, it's every bit as lovely in real life. With its emerald-green lake, picture-postcard church on an islet, a medieval castle clinging to a rocky cliff and some of the highest peaks of the Julian Alps and the Karavanke as backdrops, Bled is Slovenia's most popular resort, drawing everyone from honeymooners lured by the over-the-top romantic setting to backpackers, who come for the hiking, biking, watersports and canyoning.

Bled

1Top Sights

1Bled CastleD1

2Bled IslandB3

2Activities, Courses & Tours

33glav AdventuresF2

4Boat Rental Camping BledA3

4Sleeping

5Camping BledA3

6Old Parish HouseE1

7Traveller's HavenE1

5Eating

8Gostilna MurkaE1

9Grajska PlažaE2

10Slaščičarna ŠmonE1

1Sights & Activities

oLake BledLAKE

(Blejsko jezero)

Bled’s greatest attraction is its exquisite blue-green lake, measuring just 2km by 1.4km. The lake is lovely to behold from almost any vantage point, and makes a beautiful backdrop for the 6km walk along the shore. Mild thermal springs warm the water to a swimmable 26°C (79°F) from June through August.

oBled CastleCASTLE

(Blejski Grad; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-572 97 82; www.blejski-grad.si; Grajska cesta 25; adult/child €9/4.50; h8am-9pm mid-Jun–mid-Sep, to 8pm Apr–mid-Jun & mid-Sep–Oct, to 6pm Nov-Mar)

Perched atop a steep cliff more than 100m above the lake, Bled Castle is how most people imagine a medieval fortress to be, with towers, ramparts, moats and a terrace offering magnificent views. The castle houses a museum collection that traces the lake’s history from earliest times to the development of Bled as a resort in the 19th century.

oBled IslandISLAND

(Blejski Otok; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.blejskiotok.si)

Tiny, tear-shaped Bled Island beckons from the shore. There’s the Church of the Assumption and a small museum, but the real thrill is the ride out by pletna (gondola). The pletna will set you down on the south side at the monumental South Staircase (Južno Stopnišče), built in 1655. The staircase comprises 99 steps – a local tradition is for the husband to carry his new bride up them.

o3glav AdventuresADVENTURE SPORTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %041 683 184; www.3glav.com; Ljubljanska cesta 1; h9am-noon & 4-7pm mid-Apr–Sep)

The number-one adventure-sport specialists in Bled for warm-weather activities. 3glav Adventures' most popular trip is the Emerald River Adventure, an 11-hour hiking and swimming foray into Triglav National Park and along the Soča River that covers a huge loop from Bled over the Vršič Pass and down the Soča Valley, with optional rafting trip.

4Sleeping

Camping BledCAMPGROUND€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-575 20 00; www.camping-bled.com; Kidričeva cesta 10c; site per adult/child €13.40/9.38, glamping huts from €61; piW)

Bled’s hugely popular, amenity-laden campground is in a rural valley at the western end of the lake, about 4km from the bus station. You don't need a tent: the campground is also home to glamping possibilities: four family-sized 'mobile homes' and a dozen cute wooden A-frame huts.

oOld Parish HouseGUESTHOUSE€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %070 865 738; www.blejskiotok.si/hotel; Slovenski trg 3; s/d from €50/68; pW)

In a privileged position, the Old Parish House (Stari Farovž), belonging to the Parish Church of St Martin, has been newly transformed into a simple, welcoming guesthouse, with timber beams, hardwood floors and neutral, minimalist style. Pros include car parking, lake views and waking to church bells.

Traveller's HavenHOSTEL€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %041 396 545; www.travellers-haven.si; Riklijeva cesta 1; dm/d from €21/48; pW)

This is arguably the nicest of several hostels clustered on a hillside on the eastern shore of the lake, about 500m north of the centre. The setting is a renovated villa, with six rooms (including one double), a great kitchen, a low-cost laundry and bike hire.

5Eating

Slaščičarna ŠmonCAFE€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-574 16 16; www.smon.si; Grajska cesta 3; kremna rezina €2.70; h7.30am-10pm)

Bled’s culinary speciality is the delicious kremna rezina, also known as the kremšnita: it's a layer of vanilla custard topped with whipped cream and sandwiched between two layers of flaky pastry. While Šmon patisserie may not be its place of birth, it remains the best place in which to try it – retro decor and all.

Gostilna MurkaSLOVENIAN€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-574 33 40; www.gostilna-murka.com; Riklijeva cesta 9; mains €9-19; h10am-10pm Mon-Fri, noon-11pm Sat & Sun)

This traditional eatery set within a large, leafy garden may at first appear a bit theme-park-ish – but the food is super-authentic (lots of old-school national dishes) and the welcome warm. Offers good-value lunch specials for around €5.

Grajska PlažaSLOVENIAN€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %031 813 886; www.grajska-plaza.com; Veslaška promenada 11; mains €8-20; h9am-11pm May–mid-Oct)

Even the locals say that dining at this place feels like a summer holiday. It's built on a terrace over the Castle Lido and has a relaxed vibe, helpful service and an easy all-day menu that stretches from morning coffee to end-of-day cocktails. Meal options like grilled trout or octopus salad are generous and tasty.

8Information

Infocenter Triglavska Roža BledTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04-578 02 05; www.tnp.si; Ljubljanska cesta 27; h8am-6pm mid-Apr–mid-Oct, to 4pm mid-Oct–mid-Apr)

An excellent info centre for Bled and the entire region, with maps, guides and displays on Triglav National Park.

Tourist Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04-574 11 22; www.bled.si; Cesta Svobode 10; h8am-9pm Mon-Sat, 9am-5pm Sun Jul & Aug, reduced hr Sep-Jun)

Occupies a small office behind the Casino at Cesta Svobode 10; sells maps and souvenirs, rents bikes and has internet access.

8Getting There & Away

ABus Bled is well connected by bus; the bus station ( GOOGLE MAP ; Cesta svobode 4) is a hub of activity at the lake's northeast. More than a dozen buses daily make the run to and from Ljubljana (€6.30, 80 to 90 minutes, 57km).

ATrain Bled has two train stations, though neither is close to the centre. The Lesce-Bled station, 4km east of Bled township on the road to Radovljica, is on the rail line to Ljubljana (€5.08 to €6.88, 40 minutes to one hour, 51km, up to 20 daily). Buses connect the station with Bled.

CLIMBING & RAFTING IN THE GREAT OUTDOORS

Bled is a popular jumping-off spot for exploring the nearby Triglav National Park and taking part in boundless adventure opportunities like climbing, canyoning and rafting.

Climbers will no doubt be tempted to scale the country's tallest peak: the 2864m-high Mt Triglav. It's a rite of passage for Slovenians and accessible to anyone who is reasonably fit and confident.

We strongly recommend hiring a guide for the ascent, even if you have some mountain-climbing experience under your belt. A local guide will know the trails and conditions.

Rafting and kayaking on the beautiful Soča River, northwest of Bled, provides all the adrenaline of a mountain climb, but has the added advantage of a cooling swim on a hot summer day. The rafting season lasts from April to October.

Rafting trips on the Soča over a distance of around 8km (1½ hours) usually cost from €35 to €40; longer trips may be possible when water levels are high. Prices include guiding, transport to/from the river, a neoprene suit, boots, life jacket, helmet and paddle. Wear a swimsuit and bring a towel.

The town of Bovec in the middle of the Soča Valley is the epicentre for rafting in these parts, but several agencies in Bled organise day-out-and-back excursions.

Outfitter 3glav Adventures offers both climbing and rafting trips, among other outdoor pursuits. For climbing, another useful contact is the Alpine Association of Slovenia (PZS; %01-434 56 80; www.pzs.si; Dvoržakova ulica 9, Ljubljana; h9am-3pm Mon & Thu, 9am-5pm Wed, 8am-1pm Fri).

The Karst Region & Coast

Slovenia’s astonishing diversity comes to the fore in its western coastal region. Separated by short distances, you can traipse through remarkable Unesco-recognised caves that yawn open to reveal karstic treasures, or admire the Venetian history and architectural legacy of photogenic seaside towns like Piran.

Piran

Pop 4470

Picturesque Piran (Pirano in Italian), sitting pretty at the tip of a narrow peninsula, is everyone’s favourite town on the Slovenian coast. Its Old Town – one of the best-preserved historical towns anywhere on the Adriatic – is a gem of Venetian Gothic architecture, but it can be a mob scene at the height of summer. In quieter times, it’s hard not to fall instantly in love with the atmospheric winding alleyways, the sunsets and the seafood restaurants.

1Sights

oTartinijev TrgSQUARE

( GOOGLE MAP )

The much-photographed, pastel-toned Tartinijev trg is a marble-paved square (oval-shaped, really) that was the inner harbour until it was filled in 1894. The statue of the nattily dressed gentleman in the centre is of native son, composer and violinist Giuseppe Tartini (1692–1770). To the east is the 1818 Church of St Peter. Across from the church is Tartini House, the composer’s birthplace.

oVenetian HouseHISTORIC BUILDING

(Benečanka; GOOGLE MAP ; Tartinijev trg 4)

One of Piran’s most eye-catching structures is the red mid-15th-century Gothic Venetian House, with its tracery windows and balcony, in the northeast of Tartinijev trg.

oCathedral of St GeorgeCATHEDRAL

(Župnijska Cerkev Sv Jurija; GOOGLE MAP ; www.zupnija-piran.si; Adamičeva ulica 2)

A cobbled street leads from behind the Venetian House to Piran's hilltop cathedral, baptistery and bell tower. The cathedral was built in baroque style in the early 17th century, on the site of an earlier church from 1344. The cathedral's doors are usually open and a metal grille allows you to see some of the richly ornate and newly restored interior.

4Sleeping

Prices are higher in Piran than elsewhere on the coast, and it's not a good idea to arrive without a booking in summer.

Val HostelHOSTEL€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %05-673 25 55; www.hostel-val.com; Gregorčičeva ulica 38a; per person €22-25; iW)

Location is the winner here – this central hostel has 22 rooms (including a few singles) with shared bathrooms, and access to a kitchenette and a laundry.

oPachaMamaGUESTHOUSE, APARTMENT€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %059 183 495; www.pachamama.si; Trubarjeva 8; per person €30-35; aW)

Built by travellers for travellers, this excellent new guesthouse ('PachaMama Pleasant Stay') sits just off Tartinijev trg and offers 12 simple, fresh rooms, decorated with timber and lots of travel photography. Cool private bathrooms and a 'secret garden' add appeal.

oMax PiranB&B€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %041 692 928, 05-673 34 36; www.maxpiran.com; Ul IX Korpusa 26; d €65-70; aW)

Piran’s most romantic accommodation is in a delightful, coral-coloured, 18th-century townhouse. It has just six handsome, compact rooms, each bearing a woman’s name rather than a number. It’s just down from the Cathedral of St George, and excellent value.

5Eating

One of Piran’s attractions is its plethora of fish restaurants, especially along Prešernovo nabrežje.

oCantina KletSEAFOOD€

( GOOGLE MAP ; Trg 1 Maja 10; mains €5-9; h10am-11pm)

This small wine bar sits pretty under a grapevine canopy on Trg 1 Maja. You order drinks from the bar (cheap local wine from the barrel or well-priced beers), but we especially love the self-service window (labelled 'Fritolin pri Cantini') where you order from a small blackboard menu of fishy dishes, like fish fillet with polenta, fried calamari, or fish tortilla.

Restaurant NeptuneSEAFOOD€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %05-673 41 11, 041 715 890; Župančičeva ul 7; mains €8-20; hnoon-4pm, 6-10pm)

It's no bad thing to be more popular with locals than tourists, and this family-run place hits all the buttons – a friendly welcome, big seafood platters (as well as meat dishes and salads), and a good-value daily two-course set lunch (you might want to wrap up with mama's dessert though).

8Information

Tourist Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

(TIC; GOOGLE MAP ; %05-673 44 40; www.portoroz.si; Tartinijev trg 2; h9am-10pm Jul & Aug, to 5pm Sep-Jun)

8Getting There & Away

ABus The bus station ( GOOGLE MAP ; Dantejeva ulica) is south of the centre. Around three buses daily make the journey to Ljubljana (€12, three hours, 140km), via Postojna.

WORTH A TRIP

POSTOJNA CAVE

The karst cave at Postojna (Postojnska Jama; %05-700 01 00; www.postojnska-jama.eu; Jamska cesta 30; adult/child €22.90/13.70, with Predjama Castle €31.90/19.10; htours hourly 9am-5pm or 6pm May-Sep, 3-4 daily 10am-3pm or 4pm Oct-Apr), one of the largest in the world, is among Slovenia’s most popular attractions, and its stalagmite and stalactite formations are unequalled anywhere. It's a busy destination – the amazing thing is how the large crowds at the entrance seem to get swallowed whole by the size of the cave, and the tourist activity doesn't detract from the wonder.

The cave has been known – and visited – by residents of the area for centuries (you need only look at Passage of New Signatures inside the Vivarium Proteus). But people in the Middle Ages knew only the entrances; the inner parts were not explored until April 1818, just days before Habsburg Emperor Franz I (r 1792–1835) came to visit.

Since then more than 36 million people have visited it (with some 6000 a day in August; rainy summer days bring the biggest crowds).

Postojna is accessible by bus from Ljubljana (€6, one hour,hourly) or Piran (€8.30, 1¾ hours, four daily). It's also on a main rail line from Ljubljana (€5.80, one hour). In July and August there is a free shuttle bus from the train station to the cave entrance.

Slovenia Survival Guide

8Directory A–Z

Accommodation

Accommodation in Slovenia runs the gamut from riverside camping grounds, hostels, mountain huts, cosy gostišča (inns) and farmhouses, to elegant castle hotels and five-star places in Ljubljana.

Accommodations tends to book up quickly in summer in Bled and along the coast, so try to reserve at least a few weeks in advance.

Hotel rates vary seasonally, with July and August the peak season and September/October and May/June the shoulders.

Slovenia has a growing stable of excellent hostels, especially in popular spots like Ljubljana and Bled.

There’s a kamp (camping ground) in virtually every corner of the country; seek out the Slovenian Tourist Board's Camping in Slovenia brochure. Some rent inexpensive bungalows. Camping ‘rough’ is illegal.

ACCOMMODATION PRICE RANGES

The following price ranges refer to a double room with en suite toilet and bath or shower, and include tax and breakfast.

€ less than €50

€€ €51 to 100

€€€ more than €100

EATING PRICE RANGES

The following price ranges refer to a two-course, sit-down meal, including a drink, for one person. Many restaurants also offer an excellent-value set menu of two or even three courses at lunch.

€ less than €15

€€ €16 to 30

€€€ more than €30

Money

Slovenia uses the euro. One euro is divided into 100 cents. There are seven euro notes in denominations of €5, €10, €20, €50, €100, €200 and €500.

Exchange cash at banks, post offices, tourist offices, travel agencies and private exchange offices.

ATMs are ubiquitous throughout Slovenia.

Credit cards, especially Visa, MasterCard and American Express, are widely accepted.

When a gratuity is not included in your bill, which may or may not be the case, paying an extra 10% is customary.

Opening Hours

AStores 8am to 7pm Monday to Friday, to 1pm Saturday

ARestaurants 11am to 10pm

ABanks 9am to 5pm Monday to Friday (lunch break 12.30pm to 2pm)

AMuseums 10am to 6pm Tuesday to Sunday, shorter hours in winter

Public Holidays

ANew Year 1 and 2 January

APrešeren Day (Slovenian Culture Day) 8 February

AEaster & Easter Monday March/April

AInsurrection Day 27 April

ALabour Day holidays 1 and 2 May

ANational Day 25 June

AAssumption Day 15 August

AReformation Day 31 October

AAll Saints' Day 1 November

AChristmas Day 25 December

AIndependence Day 26 December

Telephones

There are six area codes in Slovenia (01 to 05 and 07).

Public telephones require a telefonska kartica or telekartica (telephone card) available at post offices and some newsstands.

To call Slovenia from abroad, dial the international access code, 386 (the country code for Slovenia), the area code (minus the initial zero) and the number.

To call abroad from Slovenia, dial 00 followed by the country and area codes and then the number. Numbers beginning with 80 are toll-free.

Slovenia uses GSM 900, which is compatible with the rest of Europe and Australia but not with the North American GSM 1900 or the Japanese system.

Local SIM cards are available from providers SiMobil, Telekom Slovenija and Telemach.

Wi-fi

Virtually every hotel and hostel in the land offers wi-fi for guests' use, usually for free.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Slovenia’s main international airport receiving regular scheduled flights is Ljubljana’s Jože Pučnik Airport (Aerodrom Ljubljana; %04-206 19 81; www.lju-airport.si/eng; Zgornji Brnik 130a, Brnik), 27km north of Ljubljana. In the arrivals hall there's a Slovenia Tourist Information Centre desk, several travel agencies and ATMs.

From its base at Brnik, the Slovenian flag-carrier, Adria Airways (%01-369 10 10, 04-259 45 82; www.adria-airways.com), serves more than 20 European destinations on regularly scheduled flights.

Land

Slovenia is well connected by road and rail with its four neighbours: Italy, Austria, Hungary and Croatia. Bus and train timetables sometimes use Slovenian names for foreign cities.

ABus Most international buses arrive and depart from Ljubljana's bus station.

ATrain The Slovenian Railways (Slovenske Železnice, SŽ; %01-291 33 32; www.slo-zeleznice.si) network links up with the European railway network via Austria, Germany, Czech Republic, Croatia, Hungary (Budapest), Switzerland (Zürich) and Serbia (Belgrade).

8Getting Around

ABus Generally efficient and good value but can be very crowded on Friday afternoons. Buy your ticket at the avtobusna postaja (bus station) or simply pay the driver as you board.

ATrain Cheaper but usually slower than buses (with the exception of intercity high-speed services). Getting from A to B often requires returning to Ljubljana.

Hungary

Budapest

Pop 1.75 million

Straddling the Danube River, with the Buda Hills to the west and sprawling Pest to the east, Budapest is a dazzling city. Its beauty is not all God given; humankind has played a role in shaping this pretty face too. Architecturally, the city is a treasure trove, with enough baroque, neoclassical, Eclectic and Art Nouveau (or Secessionist) buildings to satisfy everyone.

Buda

1Sights

1Fishermen's BastionB4

2Hungarian National GalleryC5

3Matthias ChurchB4

4Royal PalaceC6

2Activities, Courses & Tours

5Király BathsC2

5Eating

6Nagyi PalacsintázójaA3

6Drinking & Nightlife

7Bambi PresszóC1

1Sights

Buda Hills

The hilly terrain lining the Danube's western bank is home to Castle Hill (Várhegy). This is the nerve centre of Budapest’s history and the area is packed with many of the capital’s most important museums and other attractions.

Royal PalacePALACE

(Királyi Palota; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; I Szent György tér; g16, 16A, 116)

The former Royal Palace has been razed and rebuilt at least half a dozen times over the past seven centuries. Béla IV established a royal residence here in the mid-13th century, and subsequent kings added to the structure. The palace was levelled in the battle to rout the Turks in 1686; the Habsburgs rebuilt it but spent very little time here. Today the Royal Palace contains two important museums as well as the National Széchenyi Library.

Hungarian National GalleryGALLERY

(Nemzeti Galéria; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %1-201 9082; www.mng.hu; I Szent György tér 2, Bldgs A-D; adult/concession 1800/900Ft, audio guide 1000Ft; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun; g16, 16A, 116)

The Hungarian National Gallery is an overwhelming collection spread across four floors that traces Hungarian art from the 11th century to the present. The largest collections include medieval and Renaissance stonework, Gothic wooden sculptures and panel paintings, late Gothic winged altars, and late Renaissance and baroque art.

Matthias ChurchCHURCH

(Mátyás templom; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %1-355 5657; www.matyas-templom.hu; I Szentháromság tér 2; adult/concession 1500/1000Ft; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat, 1-5pm Sun; g16, 16A, 116)

Parts of Matthias Church date back 500 years, notably the carvings above the southern entrance. But basically Matthias Church (so named because King Matthias Corvinus married Beatrix here in 1474) is a neo-Gothic confection designed by the architect Frigyes Schulek in 1896.

Fishermen’s BastionMONUMENT

(Halászbástya; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; I Szentháromság tér; adult/concession 700/500Ft; h9am-11pm mid-Mar–mid-Oct; g16, 16A, 116)

The bastion is a neo-Gothic masquerade that looks medieval and offers among the best views in Budapest. Built as a viewing platform in 1905 by Frigyes Schulek, the architect behind Matthias Church, the bastion’s name was taken from the medieval guild of fishermen responsible for defending this stretch of the castle wall. The seven gleaming white turrets represent the Magyar tribes that entered the Carpathian Basin in the late 9th century.

oMemento ParkHISTORIC SITE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %1-424 7500; www.mementopark.hu; XXII Balatoni út 16; adult/student 1500/1000Ft; h10am-dusk; g150)

Home to more than 40 statues, busts and plaques of Lenin, Marx, Béla Kun and others whose likenesses have ended up on trash heaps elsewhere in the former-socialist world, Memento Park, 10km southwest of the city centre, is truly a mind-blowing place to visit. Ogle the socialist realism and try to imagine that at least four of these relics were erected as recently as the late 1980s; a few of them, including a memorial of Béla Kun in a crowd by fence-sitting sculptor Imre Varga were still in place when one of us moved to Budapest in early 1992.

CitadellaFORT

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; g27)F

The Citadella is a fortress that never saw a battle. Built by the Habsburgs after the 1848–49 War of Independence to defend the city from further insurrection, the structure was obsolete by the time it was ready in 1851 because the political climate had changed.

Pest

The flat eastern bank of the Danube is where you begin to appreciate Budapest's size and urban character. You’ll probably spend the bulk of your time here, which takes in the former Jewish quarter as well as high-heeled Andrássy út, the long, dramatic and très chic boulevard that slices through the area.

Central Pest

1Top Sights

1Great SynagogueC4

1Sights

2Basilica of St StephenB3

3CitadellaA7

4House of TerrorD2

5Hungarian State Opera HouseC3

6ParliamentA2

2Activities, Courses & Tours

7Gellért BathsB7

4Sleeping

8Carpe NoctemC1

9Central Backpack King HostelB3

10Kapital InnD1

11Maverick City LodgeC4

12Wombat'sC4

5Eating

13KispiacB2

14KlasszC3

15Macesz BistroC4

6Drinking & Nightlife

16DiVino BorbárB3

17GerbeaudA4

18Szimpla KertD4

3Entertainment

19Hungarian State Opera HouseC3

20Liszt AcademyD3

oGreat SynagogueSYNAGOGUE

(Nagy zsinagóga; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.greatsynagogue.hu; VII Dohány utca 2; adult/student & child incl museum 3000/2000Ft; h10am-5.30pm Sun-Thu, to 4.30pm Fri Apr-Oct, reduced hours Nov-Mar; mM2 Astoria)

Budapest's stunning Great Synagogue is the largest Jewish house of worship in the world outside New York City. Built in 1859, the synagogue has both Romantic and Moorish architectural elements. Inside, the Hungarian Jewish Museum contains objects relating to religious and everyday life, as well as the Holocaust Memorial Room, which relates the events of 1944–45. On the synagogue’s north side, the Holocaust Memorial presides over the mass graves of those murdered by the Nazis.

Hungarian State Opera HouseNOTABLE BUILDING

(Magyar Állami Operaház; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.operavisit.hu; VI Andrássy út 22; tours adult/concession 2900/1900Ft; htours 2pm (English language only), 3pm & 4pm; #; mM1 Opera)

The neo-Renaissance Hungarian State Opera House was designed by Miklós Ybl in 1884 and is among the city’s most beautiful buildings. Its facade is decorated with statues of muses and opera greats such as Puccini and Mozart, while its interior dazzles with marble columns, gilded vaulted ceilings and chandeliers, and superb acoustics. If you cannot attend a performance, join one of the tours. Tickets are available from the souvenir shop inside to the left.

House of TerrorMUSEUM

(Terror Háza; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.terrorhaza.hu; VI Andrássy út 60; adult/concession 2000/1000Ft; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun; mM1 Oktogon)

The headquarters of the dreaded secret police have been turned into the striking House of Terror, an engrossing and evocative museum focusing on the crimes and atrocities of Hungary's fascist and Stalinist regimes. The years leading up to the 1956 Uprising get the lion's share of the exhibition space. The reconstructed prison cells in the basement and the Perpetrators' Gallery, featuring photographs of the turncoats, spies and torturers, are chilling.

ParliamentHISTORIC BUILDING

(Országház; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %1-441 4904; www.parlament.hu; V Kossuth Lajos tér 1-3; adult/student EU citizen 2200/1200Ft, non-EU citizen 5400/2800Ft; h8am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat & Sun Apr-Oct, 8am-4pm daily Nov-Mar; mM2 Kossuth Lajos tér)

The Eclectic-style Parliament, designed by Imre Steindl and completed in 1902, has 691 sumptuously decorated rooms, but you’ll only get to see several on a guided tour of the North Wing: the main staircase and landing; the Domed Hall, where the Crown of St Stephen, the nation’s most important national icon, is on display; the Loge Hall; and the Congress Hall, where the House of Lords of the one-time bicameral assembly sat until 1944.

Basilica of St StephenCHURCH

(Szent István Bazilika; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06 30 703 6599; www.basilica.hu; V Szent István tér; requested donation 200Ft; h9am-5pm Apr-Sep, 10am-4pm Oct-Mar; mM2 Arany János utca)

Budapest’s neoclassical cathedral was built over half a century and completed in 1905. Much of the interruption had to do with a fiasco in 1868 when the dome collapsed during a storm, and the structure had to be demolished and then rebuilt from the ground up. The basilica is rather dark and gloomy inside, but take a trip to the top of the dome for incredible views.

Heroes' SquareSQUARE

(Hősök tere; GOOGLE MAP ; g105, mM1 Hősök tere)

This public space holds a sprawling monument constructed to honour the millennial anniversary (in 1896) of the Magyar conquest of the Carpathian Basin.

SzÉchenyi Baths, Budapest | Li Kim Goh / Getty Images ©

DON'T MISS

IN HOT WATER

Hungarians have been 'taking the waters’ supplied by an estimated 300 thermal springs since togas were all the rage, and the practice really got a boost during the centuries-long Ottoman occupation (some baths retain their original Turkish appearance).

Gellért BathsBATHHOUSE

(Gellért gyógyfürdő; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %1-466 6166; www.gellertbath.hu; XI Kelenhegyi út 4, Danubius Hotel Gellért; weekdays/weekends incl locker 5100/5300Ft, cabin 5500/5700Ft; h6am-8pm; g7, 86, mM4 Szent Gellért tér, j18, 19, 47, 49)

Soaking in the Art Nouveau Gellért Baths, open to both men and women in mixed sections, has been likened to taking a bath in a cathedral.

Széchenyi BathsBATHHOUSE

(Széchenyi Gyógyfürdő; GOOGLE MAP ; %1-363 3210; www.szechenyibath.hu; XIV Állatkerti körút 9-11; ticket incl locker/cabin Mon-Fri 4700/4900Ft, Sat & Sun 4900/5400Ft; h6am-10pm; mM1 Széchenyi fürdő)

At the northern end of City Park, the Széchenyi Baths is unusual for three reasons: its immense size (with 15 indoor pools and three outdoor); its bright, clean atmosphere; and its water temperatures (up to 38°C), which really are what the wall plaques say they are.

Király BathsBATHHOUSE

(Király Gyógyfürdő; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %1-202 3688; www.spasbudapest.com; II Fő utca 84; daily ticket incl cabin 2700Ft; h9am-9pm; g86, j4, 6)

The four pools here, with water temperatures of between 26°C and 40°C, are genuine Turkish baths erected in 1570 and have a wonderful skylit central dome. The Király is open to both men and women every day of opening, so pack a swimsuit.

4Sleeping

Accommodation in Budapest runs the gamut from hostels in converted flats and private rooms in far-flung housing estates to luxury guesthouses in the Buda Hills and five-star properties. The booking site Hostelworld (www.hostelworld.com) maintains a good list of Budapest hostels.

Wombat'sHOSTEL€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %1-883 5005; www.wombats-hostels.com; Király utca 20; dm €16-20, d €29; W; mM1/2/3 Deák Ferenc tér)

Well located for Erzsébetváros nightlife – it's directly opposite buzzing Gozsdu udvar – this slick and well-equipped hostel can accommodate a whopping 465 guests in its 120 rooms. Choose from four- to eight-bed dorms or doubles, all of which are en suite. There's a clean, cool design throughout and a large common area set in a colourful glass-roofed atrium.

Carpe NoctemHOSTEL€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06 70 670 0384; www.budapestpartyhostels.com; VI Szobi utca 5; dm 5400Ft; iW; mM3 Nyugati pályaudvar, j4, 6)

Part of the Budapest Party Hostels chain, this relaxed place offers a smaller, more laidback option than its sister establishments. With just three rooms of six- to eight-bed dorms, it has an intimate, easygoing atmosphere. It's right at the top of an apartment block – so expect quite a hike with your bags.

Central Backpack King HostelHOSTEL€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06 30 667 9669; www.centralbackpackking.hostel.com; V Október 6 utca 15; dm €12-18, d €45-52; iW; g15, 115, mM3 Arany János utca)

This upbeat place in the heart of the Inner Town has dorm rooms with seven or eight beds on one floor and doubles, triples and quads on another. There’s a small but scrupulously clean kitchen, a large, bright common room, and views across Október 6 utca.

oKapital InnB&B€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06 30 915 2029; www.kapitalinn.com; VI Aradi utca 30, 4th fl; r €89-125, ste €199; naiW#; mM1 Vörösmaty utca)

Stylishly decorated and well-run B&B with just four luxurious rooms and a two-bed suite on the fourth floor of a beautiful 1893 building. The sleek, recently revamped breakfast room has a fridge stocked with goodies that can be raided at any time, and the 56-sq-metre terrace is a great place to take breakfast or just relax in the sun.

5Eating

The dining scene in Budapest has undergone a sea change in recent years. Hungarian food has ‘lightened up’, offering the same wonderfully earthy and spicy tastes but in less calorific dishes.

Nagyi PalacsintázójaHUNGARIAN€

(Granny's Crepe Place; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.nagyipali.hu; I Hattyú utca 16; pancakes 190-680Ft, set menus 1090-1190Ft; h24hr; v; mM2 Széll Kálmán tér)

This small eatery serves Hungarian pancakes – both savoury and sweet – round the clock and is always packed.

oKlasszINTERNATIONAL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.klasszetterem.hu; VI Andrássy út 41; mains 1890-5490Ft; h11.30am-11pm; mM1 Oktogon)

Owned by the local wine society, Klassz is mostly about wine – Hungarian, to be precise – and here you can order by the 10cL measure from an ever-changing list of up to four dozen wines to sip and compare.

oKispiacHUNGARIAN€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %1-269 4231; www.kispiac.eu; V Hold utca 13; mains 1950-3500Ft; hnoon-10pm Mon-Sat; mM3 Arany János utca)

This hole-in-the-wall retro-style restaurant next to the Hold utca market serves seriously Hungarian things like stuffed csülök (pig's trotter – and way better than it sounds), roast malac (piglet) and an infinite variety of savanyúság (sour pickled vegetables).

oMacesz BistroJEWISH, HUNGARIAN€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %1-787 6164; http://maceszbistro.hu; VII Dob utca 26; mains 1990-5190Ft; hnoon-4pm, 6-11pm Sun-Thurs, till midnight Fri-Sat)

A wonderful marriage of modern and traditional, the Macesz Huszár serves up Hungarian Jewish dishes in a swish bistro-style dining room, handsomely dressed up with lace tablecloths, flock wallpaper and rocking horses. The Jewish-style eggs and matzo-ball soup are standout starters.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

EAT, DRINK & BE MAGYAR

There is a lot more to Hungarian food than goulash and it remains one of the most sophisticated styles of cooking in Europe. Magyars even go so far as to say there are three essential world cuisines: French, Chinese and their own.

That may be a bit of an exaggeration but Hungary's reputation as a food centre dates largely from the late 19th century and the first half of the 20th and, despite a fallow period during the chilly days of communism, is once again commanding attention. So too are the nation's world-renowned wines.

6Drinking & Nightlife

In recent years Budapest has gained a reputation as one of Europe’s top nightlife destinations. Alongside its age-old cafe culture, it offers a magical blend of unique drinking holes, fantastic wine, homegrown fire waters and emerging craft beers.

oBambi PresszóCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %1-213 3171; www.facebook.com/bambieszpresszo; II Frankel Leó út 2-4; h7am-10pm Mon-Fri, 9am-10pm Sat & Sun; g86)

The words ‘Bambi’ and ‘modern’ do not make comfortable bedfellows; nothing about this place (named after a communist-era local soft drink) has changed since the 1960s. And that’s just the way the crowd here likes it. Friendly, though set-it-down-with-a-crash service completes the picture.

Tranzit Art CaféCAFE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %1-209 3070; www.tranzitcafe.com; XI Bukarest utca & Ulászló utca; h9am-11pm Mon-Fri, 10am-10pm Sat; g7, j19, 49)

As chilled a place to drink and nosh as you’ll find in south Buda, the Tranzit made its home in a small disused bus station, put art on the walls and filled the leafy courtyard with hammocks and comfy sofas. Breakfast and sandwiches are available, and two-course lunches (including a veggie one) can be had for 1200Ft during the week.

GerbeaudCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %1-429 9001; www.gerbeaud.hu; V Vörösmarty tér 7; h9am-9pm; mM1 Vörösmarty tér)

Founded on the northern side of Pest’s busiest square in 1858, Gerbeaud has been the most fashionable meeting place for the city’s elite since 1870. Along with exquisitely prepared cakes and pastries, it serves continental/full breakfast and sandwiches. A visit is mandatory.

oDiVino BorbárWINE BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06 70 935 3980; www.divinoborbar.hu; V Szent István tér 3; h4pm-midnight Sun-Wed, to 2am Thu-Sat; mM1 Bajcsy-Zsilinszky út)

Central and always heaving, DiVino is Budapest's most popular wine bar and the crowds spilling out into the square in front of the basilica will immediately tell you that. Choose from 120 types of wine produced by some 30 winemakers under the age of 35 at the bar, but be careful: those 0.1L glasses go down quickly.

Szimpla KertRUIN PUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.szimpla.hu; VII Kazinczy utca 14; hnoon-3am; mM2 Astoria)

Budapest's first romkocsma (ruin pub), Szimpla Kert is firmly on the drinking-tourists' trail (you can even buy a T-shirt) but remains a landmark place for a drink. It's a huge building with nooks filled with bric-a-brac, grafitti, art and all manner of unexpected items. Sit in an old Trabant, watch open-air cinema, down shots or join in an acoustic jam session.

3Entertainment

Hungarian State Opera HouseOPERA

(Magyar Állami Operaház; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %box office 1-353 0170; www.opera.hu; VI Andrássy út 22; hbox office 11am-5pm, from 4pm Sun; mM1 Opera)

The gorgeous neo-Renaissance opera house is worth a visit as much to admire the incredibly rich decoration inside as to view a performance and hear the perfect acoustics.

Liszt AcademyCLASSICAL MUSIC

(Liszt Zeneakadémia; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %1-321 0690; www.zeneakademia.hu; VI Liszt Ferenc tér 8; hticket office 11am-6pm; mM1 Oktogon)

Budapest’s most important concert hall has emerged from extensive renovations and is looking more fantastic than ever. Performances are usually booked up at least a week in advance, but (expensive) last-minute tickets can sometimes be available – it's always worth checking.

8Information

Budapest InfoTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.budapestinfo.hu; V Sütő utca 2; h8am-8pm; mM1/M2/M3 Deák Ferenc tér)

Centrally located tourist office, but often hopelessly crowded in summer. There are also tourist desks in the arrivals sections of Ferenc Liszt International Airport, terminals 2A and 2B.

8Getting There & Away

Most people arrive in Budapest by air, but you can also get here from dozens of European cities by bus and train.

AAir Budapest’s Ferenc Liszt International Airport (%1-296 7000; www.bud.hu) has two modern terminals side by side, 2A and 2B, 24km southeast of the city centre.

ABus Volánbusz (%1-382 0888; www.volanbusz.hu), the national bus line, has an extensive list of destinations from Budapest. All international buses and domestic ones to/from western Hungary arrive at and depart from Népliget bus station in Pest.

ATrain Magyar Államvasutak (MÁV, Hungarian State Railways; %06-40 49 49 49, from abroad +36-1 444 4499; www.mav.hu) links up with the European rail network in all directions. Most international trains (and domestic traffic to/from the north and northeast) arrive at the train station Keleti pályaudvar.

8Getting Around

To/from the Airport

MiniBUD (%1-550 0000; www.minibud.hu; one way from 1900Ft) is the airports official bus shuttle service and runs regularly from the airport to the center and back. Order tickets by telephone or from the service website. There are MiniBUD information counters in the arrivals terminals.

The cheapest way to get into the city centre from the airport is to take bus 200E – look for the stop on the footpath between terminals 2A and 2B – which terminates at the Kőbánya-Kispest metro station. From there take the M3 metro into the city centre.

Public Transport

Public transport is run by BKK (Budapesti Közlekedési Központ, Centre for Budapest Transport; %1-258 4636; www.bkk.hu). Travel passes valid for one day to one month are valid on all trams, buses, trolleybuses, HÉV (within city limits) and metro lines. Public transport runs generally from 4.30am to about 11.30pm.

The basic fare for all forms of transport is 350Ft (3000Ft for a block of 10), allowing you to travel as far as you like on the same metro, bus, trolleybus or tram line without changing/transferring. A ‘transfer ticket’ allowing unlimited stations with one change within one hour costs 530Ft.

WORTH A TRIP

LAKE BALATON

Extending roughly 80km like a skinny, lopsided paprika, at first glance Lake Balaton, to the southwest of Budapest, seems to simply be a happy, sunny expanse of tourmaline-coloured water to play in. But step beyond the beaches of Europe’s biggest and shallowest body of water and you’ll encounter the vine-filled forested hills, a national park and a wild peninsula jutting out 4km, nearly cutting the lake in half.

High season in Lake Balaton is July and August; crowds descend and prices skyrocket. If you're keen to enjoy the water activities but don't want the crowds, try to visit in June or September – the water is still warm (versus a bathtub-like 28 to 29 degrees in the heat of summer), everything is still open and it feels summery.

Regular trains to Lake Balaton (four hours, six daily) usually leave from Déli or Kelenföld train stations in Budapest, and buses (three hours, seven daily) from Népliget bus station.