Russia & the Baltic Coast

Why Go?

When it comes to cultural mileage, the central and northeastern reaches of the Baltic is as fuel-efficient a destination as you could ever hope for. First comes Russia, the big bear that lorded it over the region during the Soviet era and still casts a mighty shadow. This epic-scale nation packs a double whammy with Moscow and St Petersburg, among Europe's most impressive and dynamic cities, graced with imperial palaces, magnificent museums and stunning streetscapes.

In comparison, Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania are tiny. Yet in this wonderfully compact space there are three completely distinct cultures to discover – with different languages, different traditions and markedly different temperaments. By way of example, you need only look at the three unique yet equally compelling capitals: flamboyantly baroque Vilnius, chic art-nouveau Rīga and majestically medieval Tallinn.

Fast Facts

Capitals Moscow (Russia), Tallinn (Estonia), Rīga (Latvia), Vilnius (Lithuania)

Emergency 112 (Estonia),

Currency Rouble (R; Russia), Euro (€; Baltic States)

Languages Russian, Estonian, Latvian, Lithuanian

Visas Russia: required by all – apply at least a month in advance of your trip; Baltic States: not required for citizens of the EU, USA, Canada, Japan, New Zealand and Australia.

Time zones Russia GMT plus three hours (GMT plus four hours in summer), Baltic States GMT plus two hours (GMT plus three hours in summer)

Best Places to Eat

A Varenichnaya No 1

A V

A Miit

A Senamiesčio Krautuvė

Best Places to Sleep

A Soul Kitchen Hostel

A Tabinoya

A Naughty Squirrel

A Hostelgate B&B

Russia & the Baltic Coast Itinerary

1 Moscow Russia's mega-captial offers historical showstoppers, such as the Kremlin and Red Square, as well as cool creativity.

2 St Petersburg Home to the amazing Hermitage and gilded palaces, the old imperial capital is a stunner.

3 Tallinn Explore the Estonian capital's Old Town of polished medieval abodes.

4 Tartu Further your education among the museums and student bars of this electric university town.

5 Sigulda Trek from castle to castle in Latvia's 'little Switzerland'.

6 Rīga Fall head over heels for this Baltic capital packed with architectural delights.

7 Curonian Spit Chill out amid the shifting sand dunes, swim in the Baltic.

8 Vilnius The Baltic's baroque beauty is a city of immense allure.

Russia & Estonia's Top Experiences

Could there be a more iconic image of eastern Europe than the awe-inspiring architectural ensemble of Moscow’s Red Square? Russia's capital is a must on any trip to the region. St Petersburg, on the Baltic coast, is another stunner. The former imperial capital is still Russia’s most beautiful and alluring city, with its grand Italianate mansions, wending canals and enormous Neva River. Emulating the tourist-friendly nature of its Baltic neighbours is the Russian exclave of Kaliningrad: it's a fascinating destination, combining all the best elements of its enormous mother.

For the last 300 years Estonia’s history been linked to Russia, but the two states have as much in common as a barn swallow and a bear (their respective national symbols). Estonia shares a similar geography and history with Latvia and Lithuania, but culturally it’s distinct. The capital Tallinn is one of the continent’s most captivating cities. And the country's sparsely populated countryside and extensive swathes of forest provide spiritual sustenance for nature-lovers.

GETTING AROUND

Train Best for getting between the major cities in both countries; particularly recommended for connecting between Moscow and St Petersburg.

Bus Bus routes are extensive in both Russia and Estonia and cover places where trains don’t reach.

Urban Transport Moscow and St Petersburg both have excellent and cheap metro systems. Tallin's network of buses, trams and trolleybuses is also good.

Walking Across Red Square

Stepping onto Red Square never ceases to inspire: the tall towers and imposing walls of the Kremlin, the playful jumble of patterns and colours adorning St Basil’s Cathedral, the majestic red bricks of the State History Museum and the elaborate edifice of GUM, all encircling a vast stretch of cobblestones. Individually they are impressive, but the ensemble is electrifying. Come at night to see the square empty of crowds and the buildings awash with lights.

Banya at Sanduny Baths

The quintessential Russian experience is visiting a traditional bathhouse, or banya. Forget your modesty, strip down and brave the steam room at the likes of Moscow's Sanduny Baths. As the heat hits, you’ll understand why locals wear felt hats to protect their hair. A light thrashing with a bundle of birch branches is part of the fun, as is the invigorating blast that follows the post-steam dive into an icy pool or the douse in a frigid shower – as the locals say, ‘S lyogkim parom!’ (Hope your steam was easy!).

The Hermitage

Little can prepare most visitors for the scale and quality of the exhibits at the State Hermitage Museum. Comprising an almost unrivalled history of Western art, the collection includes a staggering number of Rembrandts, Rubens, Picassos and Matisses – the latter two now displayed in new galleries in the General Staff Building. In addition, there are superb antiquities, sculpture and jewellery on display. If that’s not enough, then simply content yourself with wandering through the private apartments of the Romanovs, for whom the Winter Palace was home until 1917.

A Night at the Mariinsky

What could be more Russian than a night at the ballet, dressed to the nines, watching Swan Lake or Romeo and Juliet? St Petersburg’s famed Mariinsky Theatre offers the ultimate in classical ballet or operatic experiences, and now with a contemporary twist as the Mariinsky’s long-awaited second stage has finally opened. Also worth a visit is Moscow's Bolshoi Theatre, looking better than ever after a long renovation. Tickets are no longer cheap, but the experience will stay with you forever.

Tallinn's Old Town

There was a time when sturdy walls and turreted towers enclosed most of Europe’s cities, but wartime bombing and the advent of the car put paid to most of them. Tallinn’s Old Town is a magical window into that bygone world, inducing visions of knights and ladies, merchants and peasants – not least due to the locals’ proclivity for period dress. Rambling lanes lined with medieval dwellings open onto squares once covered in the filth of everyday commerce – now lined with cafes and altogether less gory markets selling souvenirs and handicrafts.

Tartu

Tartu is to Estonia what Oxford and Cambridge are to England. Like those towns, it’s the presence of an esteemed ancient university and its attendant student population (with associated high japes and insobriety) that gives it its special character. There’s a museum on nearly every corner of Tartu’s elegant streets and, it seems, a grungy bar in every other cellar. When the sun shines, the hill in the centre of town is the place to best observe those eternal clichés of undergraduate life: earnest prattling, hopeless romancing and enthusiastic drinking.

Pärnu

Chances are you’re not visiting the Baltic with images of endless sandy beaches hovering before your eyes, but Pärnu offers exactly that. When the quirky notion of sea-bathing became fashionable at the dawn of the 20th century, Pärnu became Estonia’s most popular seaside resort – and it’s hardly less so today. Architectural gems of that period combine with relics of the Hanseatic past to create very pleasant streets to explore, with interesting eateries and bars lurking within them.

Lahemaa National Park

Providing a one-stop shop of all of Estonia’s major habitats – coast, forests, plains, peat bogs, lakes and rivers – within a very convenient 80km of the capital, Lahemaa is the slice of rural Estonia that travellers on a tight schedule really shouldn’t miss. On top of the natural attractions, there are graceful baroque manors to peruse, pocket-sized villages to visit and country taverns to take refuge in whenever the weather turns and the stomach growls.

When to Go

Latvia & Lithuania's Top Experiences

A tapestry of sea, lakes and woods, Latvia is best described as a vast pristine parkland with just one real city – its cosmopolitan capital, Rīga. The country might be small, but the amount of personal space it provides is enormous. You can always secure a chunk of pristine nature all for yourself, be it for trekking, cycling or dreaming away on a white-sand beach amid pine-covered dunes. People here fancy themselves to be the least pragmatic and the most artistic of the Baltic lot. They prove the point with myriad festivals and a merry, devil-may-care attitude – well, a subdued Nordic version of it.

A land of wood and water, proud, independent Lithuania (Lietuva) is fast being recognised as one of Europe's gems. Southernmost of the Baltic states, it's a pocket-sized republic that's a nature-lover's delight, yet lacks nothing in urban excitement. The capital, Vilnius, is a beguiling artists’ enclave, its timeworn courtyards, cobbled streets and baroque churches animated by the vibrant, optimistic culture of today. However, the county's foremost attraction is its stunning Baltic coastline, especially the unique sliver of white sand known as Curonian Spit. Lonely coastal wetlands lure migrating birds by the tens of thousands while inland, lush forests watch over burnished lakes.

GETTING AROUND

Train Services are limited in Latvia compared to Lithuania. Generally the best way for getting between the major cities

Bus In Latvia, buses are more frequent than trains and serve more of the country. In Lithuania the bus network is extensive, efficient and relatively cheap.

Urban Transport Rīga and Vilnius are easily explored on foot or by bicycle, but both cities also have an excellent public transport.

Rīga's Art Nouveau Architecture

If you ask any Rīgan where to find the city’s world-famous art nouveau architecture, you will always get the same answer: ‘Look up!’ Over 750 buildings in Latvia’s capital – more than any other city in Europe – boast this flamboyant and haunting style of decor. Spend a breezy afternoon snapping your camera at the imaginative facades in the city’s Quiet Centre district to find an ethereal (and almost eerie) melange of screaming demons, enraptured deities, overgrown flora and bizarre geometrical patterns.

Jūrmala

Jūrmala was once the most fashionable spa centre and beach resort in all of the former Russian Empire. And while the sanatorium craze has come and gone, it’s still an uberpopular place to pamper oneself silly, with unending menus of bizarre services (chocolate massages?). Even if you’re not particularly keen to swim at the shallow beach, it’s well worth the day trip from the Latvian capital to check out the wonderful old wooden mansions and witness the ostentatious presentations of the nouveau riche.

Gauja National Park

Dotted with sweet little towns, such as Sigulda, and dramatic fortifications, Latvia's Gauja National Park entrances all who visit. The tower of Turaida Castle rises majestically over the huddling pines, a glorious reminder of the fairy-tale kingdoms that once ruled the land. And after you’ve had your history lesson, it’s time to spice things up with a bevy of adrenalin-inducing sports, such as bungee jumping from a cable car or careering down a frozen bobsled track.

Vilnius's Baroque Old Town

Tempting hideaways, inviting courtyards, baroque churches and terrace bars serving beer – the Lithuanian capital's Old Town is one of the best places to get lost in throughout the Baltics. Old and new seem to coexist seamlessly here: whether you’re looking for that thrift-shop boutique, an organic bakery, a cosy little bookshop or just a quiet spot to have a coffee, they’re all likely to be standing side-by-side down some as-yet-unexplored cobblestone alleyway.

Curonian Spit

There’s something elemental – even slightly old-fashioned – about Lithuania’s loveliest seaside retreat: a long, thin strip of rare and majestic sand dunes that lines the southeastern corner of the Baltic Sea. Maybe it’s the pine scent or the sea breezes, or the relative isolation that so vividly recalls German writer Thomas Mann’s sojourns here in the early 1930s. Come to Curonian Spit to recharge your batteries and renew your faith in the redemptive powers of wind, water, earth and sky.

Hill of Crosses

Your first thought as you traverse the flat Lithuanian landscape in search of this landmark is likely to be something along the lines of, ‘Where did they ever find a hill?’ And then you glimpse it in the distance – more a mound than a mountain – covered in crosses by the tens of thousands. The hill takes on even more significance when you realise that the crosses planted here represent not just religious faith but an affirmation of the country’s very identity.

Midsummer's Eve

Although church affiliations are widespread, ancient pagan rituals are still deeply woven into the fabric of all three countries. Storks are revered, even-numbered bouquets of flowers are superstitiously rebuffed and the summer solstice is held in the highest regard. Though the spiritual element of Midsummer’s Eve has largely disappeared, family and friends continue to gather in the countryside for a bright night of beer and bonfires. While every town and village has a celebration, one great place to see in the solstice is Lithuania's Lake Plateliai.

When to Go

Russia

Moscow

%495 or 499 / Pop 12 million

Intimidating in scale, but also exciting and unforgettable, Moscow is a place that inspires extreme passion or loathing. History, power and wild capitalism hang in the air, alongside an explosion of creative energy throwing up edgy art galleries and a dynamic restaurant, bar and nightlife scene.

The sturdy stone walls of the Kremlin occupy the city’s founding site on the northern bank of the Moscow River. Remains of the Soviet state, such as Lenin’s Tomb, are nearby in Red Square and elsewhere in the city which radiates from the Kremlin in a series of ring roads.

Central Moscow

1Top Sights

1St Basil's CathedralD5

1Sights

2Art Muzeon & Krymskaya NaberezhnayaB8

3Cathedral of Christ the SaviourB6

4KremlinC5

5Lenin's MausoleumD5

6New Tretyakov GalleryB8

7Pushkin Museum of Fine ArtsB6

8Red SquareD5

9State Tretyakov Gallery Main BranchD7

2Activities, Courses & Tours

10Moscow Free TourD4

11Sanduny BathsD3

4Sleeping

12Anti-Hostel CosmicC3

13Godzillas HostelC2

14iVAN HostelC3

5Eating

15Cafe ReceptorA3

16Cafe ReceptorB4

17MizandariC7

18Stolovaya 57D5

19Varenichnaya No 1A5

6Drinking & Nightlife

2032.05B2

21EnthusiastC3

22Noor / ElectroB2

3Entertainment

23Bolshoi TheatreC4

24MasterskayaD4

25Tchaikovsky Concert HallA2

1Sights

The Kremlin & Red Square

KremlinMUSEUM

(Кремль MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-695 4146; www.kreml.ru; R500; h10am-5pm Fri-Wed, ticket office 9.30am-4.30pm Fri-Wed; mAleksandrovsky Sad)

The apex of Russian political power and once the centre of the Orthodox Church, the Kremlin is not only the kernel of Moscow but of the whole country. It's from here autocratic tsars, communist dictators and modern-day presidents have done their best – and worst – for Russia.

Covering Borovitsky Hill on the north bank of the Moscow River, the Kremlin is enclosed by high walls 2.25km long, with Red Sq outside the east wall. The best views of the complex are from Sofiyskaya nab across the river.

Before entering the Kremlin, deposit bags at the left-luggage office ( GOOGLE MAP ; per bag R60; h9am-6.30pm Fri-Wed), beneath the Kutafya Tower. The main ticket office is in the Alexandrovsky Garden. The entrance ticket covers admission to all five church-museums, and the Patriarch's Palace. It does not include the Armoury, the Diamond Fund Exhibition or special exhibits, which are priced separately.

Photography is not permitted inside the Armoury or any of the buildings on Sobornaya pl (Cathedral Sq).

Red SquareHISTORIC SITE

(Красная площадь MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Krasnaya pl; mPloshchad Revolyutsii)

Immediately outside the Kremlin’s northeastern wall is the celebrated Red Square, the 400m by 150m area of cobblestones that is at the very heart of Moscow. Commanding the square from the southern end is St Basil’s Cathedral (Покровский собор, Храм Василия Блаженного MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.saintbasil.ru; adult/student R250/50, audio guide R200; h11am-5pm; mPloshchad Revolyutsii). This panorama never fails to send the heart aflutter, especially at night.

Moscow, Russia - Be awed by the playful jumble of patterns and colours adorning St Basil’s Cathedral. | Tim Makins / Getty Images ©

Lenin's MausoleumMEMORIAL

(Мавзолей Ленина MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.lenin.ru; h10am-1pm Tue-Thu & Sat; mPloshchad Revolyutsii)F

Although Vladimir Ilych requested that he be buried beside his mum in St Petersburg, he still lies in state at the foot of the Kremlin wall, receiving visitors who come to pay their respects. Line up at the western corner of the square (near the entrance to Alexander Garden) to see the embalmed leader, who has been here since 1924. Note that photography is not allowed; and stern guards ensure that all visitors remain respectful and silent.

South of the Moscow River

State Tretyakov Gallery Main BranchGALLERY

(Главный отдел Государственной Третьяковской галереи MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.tretyakovgallery.ru/en; Lavrushinsky per 10; R400; h10am-6pm Tue, Wed, Sat & Sun, to 9pm Thu & Fri, last tickets 1hr before closing; mTretyakovskaya)

The exotic boyar (high-ranking noble) castle on a little lane in Zamoskvorechie contains the main branch of the State Tretyakov Gallery, housing the world’s best collection of Russian icons and an outstanding collection of other prerevolutionary Russian art. Show up early to beat the queues.

New Tretyakov GalleryGALLERY

(Новая Третьяковская галерея MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.tretyakovgallery.ru/en/; ul Krymsky val 10; R400; h10am-6pm Tue, Wed & Sun, to 9pm Thu-Sat , last tickets 1hr before closing; mPark Kultury)

The premier venue for 20th-century Russian art is this branch of the State Tretyakov Gallery, better known as the New Tretyakov. This place has much more than the typical socialist realist images of muscle-bound men wielding scythes, and busty women milking cows (although there’s that too). The exhibits showcase avant-garde artists such as Malevich, Kandinsky, Chagall, Goncharova and Popova. A joint ticket for both Tretyakov galleries (R700) saves R100.

Art Muzeon & Krymskaya NaberezhnayaSCULPTURE PARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Krymsky val 10; mPark Kultury)F

Now fully revamped and merged with the wonderfully reconstructed Krymskaya Naberezhnaya embankment, is this motley collection of (mostly kitschy) sculpture and monuments to Soviet idols (Stalin, Sverdlov, a selection of Lenins and Brezhnevs) that were ripped from their pedestals in the post-1991 wave of anti-Soviet feeling. All of these stand in a lovely gardens with boardwalks and many inviting benches.

oGorky ParkPARK

(Парк Горького GOOGLE MAP ; h24hr; c; mOktyabrskaya)F

Moscow's main escape from the city within the city is not your conventional expanse of nature preserved deep inside an urban jungle. It is not a fun fair either, though it used to be one. Its official name says it all – Maxim Gorky's Central Park of Culture & Leisure. That's exactly what it provides: culture and leisure in all shapes and forms. Designed by avant-garde architect Konstantin Melnikov as a piece of communist utopia in the 1920s, these days it showcases the enlightened transformation Moscow has undergone in the recent past.

DON'T MISS

JEWISH MUSEUM & CENTRE OF TOLERANCE

Occupying a heritage garage, purpose-built to house a fleet of Leyland double-deckers that plied Moscow streets in the 1920s, this vast museum (Еврейский музей и Центр терпимости GOOGLE MAP ; %495-645 0550; www.jewish-museum.ru; ul Obraztsova 11 str 1A; adults/students R400/200; hnoon-10pm Sun-Thu; mNovoslobodskaya), filled with cutting-edge multimedia technology, tackles the uneasy subject of relations between Jews and the Russian state over the centuries. The exhibition tells the stories of pogroms, Jewish revolutionaries, the Holocaust and Soviet anti-Semitism in a calm and balanced manner. The somewhat limited collection of material exhibits is compensated for by the abundance of interactive video displays.

West of the Kremlin

Pushkin Museum of Fine ArtsMUSEUM

(Музей изобразительных искусств им Пушкина MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-697 9578; www.arts-museum.ru; ul Volkhonka 12; single gallery/combined galleries R300/550, from 5pm Fri R500/800; h11am-7pm Tue, Wed, Sat & Sun, to 8pm Thu & Fri; mKropotkinskaya)

This is Moscow’s premier foreign-art museum, split over three branches and showing off a broad selection of European works, including masterpieces from ancient civilisations, the Italian Renaissance and the Dutch Golden Age. To see the incredible collection of Impressionist and post-Impressionist paintings, visit the Gallery of European & American Art.

Novodevichy ConventCONVENT

(Новодевичий монастырь GOOGLE MAP ; adult/student R300/100, photos R100; hgrounds 8am-8pm, museums 9am-5pm Wed-Mon; mSportivnaya)

The Novodevichy Convent was founded in 1524 to celebrate the taking of Smolensk from Lithuania, an important step in Moscow’s conquest of the old Kyivan Rus lands. The oldest and most dominant building in the grounds is the white Smolensk Cathedral, with a sumptuous interior covered in 16th-century frescoes. Novodevichy is a functioning monastery. Women are advised to cover their heads and shoulders when entering the churches, while men should wear long pants.

Cathedral of Christ the SaviourCHURCH

(Храм Христа Спасителя MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.xxc.ru; ul Volkhonka 15; h1-5pm Mon, 10am-5pm Tue-Sun; mKropotkinskaya)F

This gargantuan cathedral was completed in 1997 – just in time to celebrate Moscow's 850th birthday. It is amazingly opulent, garishly grandiose and truly historic. The cathedral’s sheer size and splendour guarantee its role as a love-it-or-hate-it landmark. Considering Stalin's plan for this site (a Palace of Soviets topped with a 100m statue of Lenin), Muscovites should at least be grateful they can admire the shiny domes of a church instead of the shiny dome of Ilyich’s head.

DON'T MISS

SANDUNY BATHS

Although entry is pricey, the Sanduny Baths ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-782 1808; www.sanduny.ru; Neglinnaya ul 14; per person R1600-2500; h8am-10pm Wed-Mon, Second Male Top Class 10am-midnight Tue-Fri, 8am-10pm Sat & Sun; mKuznetsky Most), Moscow’s most luxurious banya (hot bath), is an experience worth sampling. The Gothic Room is a work of art, with its rich woodcarvings, while the main shower room has an aristocratic Roman feel to it. There are several classes, as on trains, though regulars say that, here, second male class is actually better than the premium class. You can cut the cost by bringing your own towel or sheet to wrap yourself into, a felt hat to avoid burning your hair, and flip flops (thongs) to protect your feet.

TTours

Moscow Free TourWALKING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-222 3466; http://moscowfreetour.com; Nikolskaya ul 4/5; paid tours R950-1550)

Every day these enthusiastic ladies offer an informative, inspired two-hour guided walk around Red Square and Kitay Gorod – and it's completely free. It's so good you'll likely sign up for one of their excellent paid tours, covering the Kremlin, the Arbat and the Metro, or more thematic tours like communist Moscow or mystical Moscow.

Moscow 360WALKING

(%985-447 8688; www.moscow360.org)F

This ambitious company offers four different walking tours, all of which are free. They include tours of Red Square, the Cathedral of Christ the Saviour and the Metro, as well as – the most unusual – an AK-47 Tour (the tour and transport are free, but you'll pay to shoot). Tips are gratefully accepted.

4Sleeping

Godzillas HostelHOSTEL€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-699 4223; www.godzillashostel.com; Bolshoy Karetny per 6; dm from R820, s/d R2730/3070; aiW; mTsvetnoy Bulvar)

Tried and true, Godzillas is Moscow's best-known hostel, with dozens of beds spread out over four floors. The rooms come in various sizes, but they are all spacious, light-filled and painted in different colours. To cater to the many guests, there are bathroom facilities on each floor, three kitchens and a big living room with satellite TV.

Anti-Hostel CosmicHOSTEL€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %499-390 8132; http://anti-hostel.ru; ul Bolshaya Dmitrovka 7/5 str 3; capsules from R1350; W; mTeatralnaya)

Occupying a converted apartment, this place marries the idea of hostel with that of a capsule hotel. The location is hard to beat – Red Square is just a five-minute walk away. Capsules create a tiny, though comfortable, universe for guests to enjoy on their own. There is also a nice common area to mingle with fellow capsule-dwellers.

iVAN HostelHOSTEL€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %916-407 1178; www.ivanhostel.com; per Petrovsky 1/30 apt 23; dm from R1000, d with shared bathroom from R3000; W; mChekhovskaya)

iVAN consists of two clean and quiet apartments located in the same tsarist-era residential building, a short walk from Pushkin square. Being a hostel, it naturally has dorms – and very nice ones at that – but its main virtues are several simply furnished but tastefully designed private rooms with whitewashed walls and large windows.

5Eating

oVarenichnaya No 1RUSSIAN€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.varenichnaya.ru; ul Arbat 29; mains R200-400; h10am-midnight; vc; mArbatskaya)

Retro Soviet is all the rage in Moscow, but this old-style Varenichnaya does it right, with books lining the walls, old movies on the black-and-white TV, and Cold War–era prices. The menu features tasty, filling vareniki and pelmeni (different kinds of dumplings), with sweet and savoury fillings. Bonus: an excellent housemade pickled veggie plate to make you pucker.

Stolovaya 57CAFETERIA€

(Столовая 57 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.gum.ru/en/projects/s57; 3rd fl, GUM, Krasnaya pl 3; mains R200-300; h10am-10pm; mOkhotny Ryad)

Newly minted, this old-style cafeteria offers a nostalgic recreation of dining in post-Stalinist Russia. The food is good – and cheap for such a fancy store. Meat cutlets and cold salads come highly recommended. This is a great place to try ‘herring in a fur coat’ (herring, beets, carrots and potatoes).

Cafe ReceptorFUSION€

(Кафе Рецептор MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %499-216 7488; www.cafereceptor.ru; Bolshaya Nikitskaya ul 22/2; mains R250-500; hnoon-midnight; Wvc; mOkhotny Ryad)

Colourful graffiti, amateur artwork and old photographs adorn the walls of this quirky basement cafe. It creates an arty setting for healthy, veg-heavy meals, fresh juices and fancy teas. There's also free-flowing wine, house cocktails and occasional live music. There is another outlet near Patriarch's Ponds ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %499-216 9224; Bolshoy Kozikhinsky per 10; mTverskaya).

oMizandariGEORGIAN€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %903-263 9990; www.mizandari.ru; nab Bolotnaya 5, str 1; mains R300-500; h11am-11pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat; mKropotkinskaya)

Georgian restaurants in Moscow tend to be either expensive or tacky. This small, family-run place is neither. Come with friends and order a selection of appetizers, such as pkhali (vegetable puree) and lobio (spicy beans; both made of walnut paste), khachapuri (cheese pastry) and kharcho (lamb soup). Bless you if you can still accommodate a main course after all that!

6Drinking & Nightlife

o32.05CAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %905-703 3205; www.veranda3205.ru; ul Karetny Ryad 3; h11am-3am; mPushkinskaya)

The biggest drinking/eating establishment in Hermitage Gardens, this verandah positioned at the back of the main building looks a bit like a greenhouse. In summer, tables (and patrons) spill out into the park, making it one of the city's best places for outdoor drinking. With its long bar and joyful atmosphere, the place also heaves in winter.

EnthusiastBAR

(Энтузиаст MAP GOOGLE MAP ; per Stoleshnikov str 5; hnoon-11pm Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; mTeatralnaya)

Scooter enthusiast, that is. But you don't have to be one in order to enjoy this superbly laid-back bar, hidden at the far end of a fancifully shaped courtyard and disguised as a spare-parts shop. On a warm day, grab a beer or cider, settle into a beach chair and let harmony descend on you.

Noor / ElectroBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %903-136 7686; www.noorbar.com; ul Tverskaya 23/12; h8pm-3am Mon-Wed, 8pm-6am Thu-Sun; mPushkinskaya)

There is little to say about this misleadingly unassuming bar, apart from the fact that everything in it is close to perfection. It has it all – prime location, convivial atmosphere, eclectic DJ music, friendly bartenders and superb drinks. Though declared 'the best' by various magazines on several occasions, it doesn't feel like they care about the accolades.

3Entertainment

oBolshoi TheatreBALLET, OPERA

(Большой театр MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-455 5555; www.bolshoi.ru; Teatralnaya pl 1; tickets R100-12,000; hclosed Jul-Aug; mTeatralnaya)

An evening at the Bolshoi is still one of Moscow’s most romantic and entertaining options for a night on the town. The glittering six-tier auditorium has an electric atmosphere, evoking over 200 years of premier music and dance. Both the ballet and opera companies perform a range of Russian and foreign works here. After the collapse of the Soviet Union, the Bolshoi was marred by politics, scandal and frequent turnover. But the show must go on – and it does.

Tchaikovsky Concert HallCLASSICAL MUSIC

(Концертный зал имени Чайковского MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-232 0400; www.meloman.ru; Triumfalnaya pl 4/31; tickets R300-3000; hclosed Jul-Aug; mMayakovskaya)

Home to the famous Moscow State Philharmonic (Moskovskaya Filharmonia), the capital’s oldest symphony orchestra, Tchaikovsky Concert Hall was established in 1921. It’s a huge auditorium, with seating for 1600 people. This is where you can expect to hear the Russian classics, such as Stravinsky, Rachmaninov and Shostakovich, as well as other European favourites. Look out for special children’s concerts.

MasterskayaLIVE MUSIC

(Мастерская MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-621 9043; www.mstrsk.ru; Teatralny proezd 3 str 3; hnoon-6am; W; mLubyanka)

All the best places in Moscow are tucked into far corners of courtyards, and they often have unmarked doors. Such is the case with this super-funky music venue. The eclectic, arty interior makes a cool place to chill out during the day. Evening hours give way to a diverse array of live-music acts or the occasional dance or theatre performance.

7Shopping

Ul Arbat has always been a tourist attraction and is littered with souvenir shops and stalls.

GUMMALL

(ГУМ GOOGLE MAP ; www.gum.ru; Krasnaya pl 3; h10am-10pm; mPloshchad Revolyutsii)

With an elaborate 240m facade on the northeastern side of Red Square, GUM is a bright, bustling shopping mall with hundreds of fancy stores and restaurants. With a skylight roof and three-level arcades, the spectacular interior was a revolutionary design when it was built in the 1890s, replacing the Upper Trading Rows previously occupying this site.

Izmaylovsky MarketMARKET

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.kremlin-izmailovo.com; Izmaylovskoye shosse 73; h10am-8pm; mPartizanskaya)

This sprawling area, also known as Vernisazh market, is packed with art, handmade crafts, antiques, Soviet paraphernalia and just about anything you might want for a souvenir. You’ll find Moscow’s biggest original range of matryoshki (nesting dolls), palekh (painted laquer work) and khokhloma (laquer bowls) ware, as well as less traditional woodworking crafts. There are also rugs from the Caucasus and Central Asia, pottery, linens, jewellery, fur hats, chess sets, toys, Soviet posters and much more.

8Information

International Clinic MEDSI ( GOOGLE MAP ; %495-933 7700; http://medsi.ru/eng/icm; Grokholsky per 1; h24hr; mPr Mira) Emergency service, consultations and a full range of medical specialists. On-site pharmacy with English-speaking staff.

Maria Travel Agency ( GOOGLE MAP ; %495-775 8226; www.maria-travel.com; ul Maroseyka 13; mKitay-Gorod) Visa support, apartment rental and some local tours, including the Golden Ring.

AMoscow Times (www.themoscowtimes.com) Locally published English-language newspaper, free of charge.

Unifest Travel ( GOOGLE MAP ; %495-234 6555; http://unifest.ru/en.html; Komsomolsky prospekt 16/2) On-the-ball travel company offers rail and air tickets, visa support and more.

8Getting There & Away

International flights land and take off from Moscow’s three airports – Domodedovo (Домодедово %495-933 6666; www.domodedovo.ru), Sheremetyevo (Шереметьево, SVO %495-578 6565; www.svo.aero) and Vnukovo (Внуково %495-937 5555; www.vnukovo.ru).

8Getting Around

METRO TOUR

For just R49 you can spend 90 minutes touring around Moscow’s magnificent metro stations. Many of these are marble-faced, frescoed, gilded works of art. Among our favourites are Komsomolskaya, a huge stuccoed hall, its ceiling covered with mosaics depicting military heroes; Novokuznetskaya, featuring military bas-reliefs done in sober khaki, and colourful ceiling mosaics depicting pictures of the happy life; and Mayakovskaya, Grand Prize winner at the 1939 World’s Fair in New York.

To/from the Airport

All three airports are accessible by the convenient Aeroexpress Train (%8-800-700 3377; www.aeroexpress.ru; R420; h6am-midnight) from the city centre; a reduced rate is available for online purchase.

Alternatively, order an official airport taxi from the dispatcher’s desk in the terminal (R2000 to R2200 to the city centre). You can save some cash by booking in advance to take advantage of the fixed rates offered by most companies (usually from R1500 to R1800 to/from any airport). Driving times vary wildly depending on traffic.

Bicycle

Cycling on the streets is dangerous, but it's a pleasant way to get around if you stick to the cycling routes along the river and in the city parks. Bikes are available from VeloBike (http://velobike.ru) and various rental stations around town.

Public Transport

The Moscow Metro (www.mosmetro.ru) is by far the easiest, quickest and cheapest way of getting around the city. Magnetic tickets (single ride R32, '90 minutes' fare R49) are sold at ticket booths. Save time by buying a Troika card, which can be topped up with any amount up to R3000 and used on all forms of public transport.

Buses, trolleybuses and trams are useful along a few radial or cross-town routes that the metro misses, and are necessary for reaching sights away from the city centre. Tickets (R31) are sold on the vehicle by a conductor.

Taxi

Unofficial taxis are still common in Moscow. Expect to pay R200 to R400 for a ride around the city centre, depending on your haggling skills.

St Petersburg

%812 / Pop 4.9 million

Affectionately known as Piter to locals, St Petersburg is a visual delight. The Neva River and surrounding canals reflect unbroken facades of handsome 18th- and 19th-century buildings that house a spellbinding collection of cultural storehouses, culminating in the incomparable Hermitage. Home to many of Russia’s greatest creative talents (Pushkin, Dostoevsky, Tchaikovsky), Piter still inspires a contemporary generation of Russians, making it a liberal, hedonistic and exciting place to visit as well as a giant warehouse of culture.

The city covers many islands, some real, some created through the construction of canals. The central street is Nevsky pr, which extends some 4km from the Alexander Nevsky Monastery to the Hermitage.

Central St Petersburg

1Top Sights

1Church on the Spilled BloodD3

2State Hermitage MuseumC3

1Sights

3General Staff BuildingC4

4KunstkameraB3

5Nevsky ProspektE4

6Peter & Paul FortressC2

7Russian MuseumD4

8St Isaac's CathedralB4

9StrelkaB3

2Activities, Courses & Tours

10Anglo TourismoE4

11Mytninskiye BaniH4

12SkatprokatG5

4Sleeping

13Baby Lemonade HostelE4

14Friends by the HermitageD3

15Friends Hostel on GriboedovD4

16Friends on BankovskyD5

17Friends on ChekhovaF4

18Friends on KazanskayaC5

19Friends on NevskyF5

20Friends on VosstaniyaG5

21Hostel LifeF5

22Soul Kitchen HostelC5

5Eating

23BibliotekaC4

Jack & ChanE4

24MarketplaceD4

6Drinking & Nightlife

BorodabarC5

25RadiobabyC5

26ZiferbergD3

3Entertainment

27Mariinsky TheatreA6

28Mikhailovsky Opera & Ballet TheatreD4

1Sights

Historic Centre

oState Hermitage MuseumMUSEUM

(Государственный Эрмитаж MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.hermitagemuseum.org; Dvortsovaya pl 2; adult/student R400/free, 1st Thu of month free; h10.30am-6pm Tue, Thu, Sat & Sun, to 9pm Wed & Fri; mAdmiralteyskaya)

Mainly set in the magnificent Winter Palace and adjoining buildings, the Hermitage fully lives up to its sterling reputation. You can be absorbed by its treasures for days and still come out wanting more.

The enormous collection (over three million items, only a fraction of which are on display in around 360 rooms) almost amounts to a comprehensive history of Western European art. Viewing it demands a little planning, so choose the areas you’d like to concentrate on before you arrive.

General Staff BuildingMUSEUM

(Здание Главного штаба MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.hermitagemuseum.org; Dvortsovaya pl 6-8; admission including main State Hermitage R400; h10.30am-6pm Tue, Thu, Sat & Sun, to 9pm Wed & Fri; mAdmiralteyskaya)

The east wing of this magnificent building, wrapping around the south of Dvortsovaya pl and designed by Carlo Rossi in the 1820s, marries restored interiors with contemporary architecture to create a series of galleries displaying the Hermitage's amazing collection of Impressionist and post-Impressionist works. Contemporary art is here, too, often in temporary exhibitions by major artists.

Russian MuseumMUSEUM

(Русский музей MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-595 4248; www.rusmuseum.ru; Inzhenernaya ul 4; adult/student R450/200, 4-palace ticket adult/child R600/300; h10am-6pm Mon, Wed & Fri-Sun, 1pm-9pm Thu; mNevsky Prospekt)

The handsome Mikhailovsky Palace is home to the country's biggest collection of Russian art. After the Hermitage you may feel you have had your fill of art, but try your utmost to make some time for this gem. There's also a lovely garden behind the palace.

oChurch on the Spilled BloodCHURCH

(Церковь Спаса на Крови MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://cathedral.ru; Konyushennaya pl; adult/student R250/150; h10.30am-6pm Thu-Tue; mNevsky Prospekt)

This five-domed dazzler is St Petersburg’s most elaborate church with a classic Russian Orthodox exterior and interior decorated with some 7000 sq m of mosaics. Officially called the Church of the Resurrection of Christ, its far more striking colloquial name references the assassination attempt on Tsar Alexander II here in 1881.

St Isaac's CathedralMUSEUM

(Isaakievsky Sobor; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.cathedral.ru; Isaakievskaya pl; cathedral adult/student R250/150, colonnade R150; hcathedral 10.30am-6pm Thu-Tue, colonnade 10.30am-10.30pm May-Oct, to 6pm Nov-Apr, 3rd Wed of month closed; mAdmiralteyskaya)

The golden dome of St Isaac’s Cathedral dominates the St Petersburg skyline. Its obscenely lavish interior is open as a museum, although services are held in the cathedral on major religious holidays. Most people bypass the museum to climb the 262 steps to the kolonnada (colonnade) around the drum of the dome, providing superb city views.

Nevsky ProspektSTREET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

Nevsky pr is Russia’s most famous street, running 4km from the Admiralty to Alexander Nevsky Monastery, from which it takes its name. The inner 2.5km to Moskovsky vokzal is St Petersburg’s seething main avenue, the city’s shopping centre, and focus of its entertainment and street life. Walking Nevsky is an essential St Petersburg experience. If you’re here on a holiday evening (such as 27 May – City Day), the sight of thousands of people pouring like a stream down its middle is one you’ll not forget.

Elsewhere in the City

Peter & Paul FortressFORTRESS

(Петропавловская крепость MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.spbmuseum.ru; grounds free, Peter & Paul Cathedral adult/child R450/250, combined ticket for five exhibitions R600/350; hgrounds 8.30am-8pm, exhibitions 11am-6pm Mon & Thu-Sun, 10am-5pm Tue; mGorkovskaya)

Housing a cathedral where the Romanovs are buried, a former prison and various exhibitions, this large defensive fortress on Zayachy Island is the kernel from which St Petersburg grew into the city it is today. History buffs will love it and everyone will swoon at the panoramic views from atop the fortress walls, at the foot of which lies a sandy riverside beach, a prime spot for sunbathing.

KunstkameraMUSEUM

(Кунсткамера MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.kunstkamera.ru; Tamozhenny per; adult/child R250/50; h11am-7pm Tue-Sun; mAdmiralteyskaya)

Also known as the Museum of Ethnology and Anthropology, the Kunstkamera is the city’s first museum and was founded in 1714 by Peter himself. It is famous largely for its ghoulish collection of monstrosities, preserved ‘freaks’, two-headed mutant foeti, deformed animals and odd body parts, all collected by Peter with the aim of educating the notoriously superstitious Russian people. While most rush to see these sad specimens, there are also very interesting exhibitions on native peoples from around the world.

StrelkaLANDMARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

Among the oldest parts of Vasilyevsky Island, this eastern tip is where Peter the Great wanted his new city’s administrative and intellectual centre to be. In fact, the Strelka became the focus of St Petersburg’s maritime trade, symbolised by the colonnaded Customs House (now the Pushkin House). The two Rostral Columns, archetypal St Petersburg landmarks, are studded with ships’ prows and four seated sculptures representing four of Russia’s great rivers: the Neva, the Volga, the Dnieper and the Volkhov.

WORTH A TRIP

STREET ART MUSEUM

Covering 11 hectares and with 150,000–200,000 sq m of walls, a large disused section of the laminated plastics factory SLOPAST is the location of the amazing Street Art Museum ( GOOGLE MAP ; %812-448 1593; http://streetartmuseum.ru; shosse Revolutsii 84, Okhta; adult/student R350/250; mPloshchad Lenina, then bus 137 or 530). The complex, in the industrial zone of Okhta, a 20-minute bus ride east of Ploshchad Lenina, has some 70 works of varying formats, including epic pieces by the likes of top Russian streets artists Timothy Radya, Kirill Kto and Nikita Nomerz, as well as the Spanish artist Escif. You need to register for a tour on the website. Concerts and events are also held here.

2Activities

SkatprokatCYCLING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-717 6838; www.skatprokat.ru; Goncharnaya ul 7; per day from R400; h11am-8pm Mon-Thu, 10am-9pm Fri-Sun; mPloshchad Vosstaniya)

This outfit offers rental bicycles that include brand-new mountain bikes by the Russian company Stark. You’ll need to leave either R2000 and your passport, or R7000, as a deposit per bike. If you are in town for a while, this place also sells secondhand bikes and does repairs. They also offer excellent Saturday- and Sunday-morning bike tours of the city.

Mytninskiye BaniBANYA

(Мытнинские бани MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.mybanya.spb.ru; Mytninskaya ul 17-19; per hr R200-300; h8am-10pm Fri-Tue; mPloshchad Vosstaniya)

Unique in the city, Mytninskiye Bani is heated by a wood furnace, just like the log-cabin bathhouses that are still found in the Russian countryside. It's actually the oldest communal banya in the city, and in addition to a parilka (steam room) and plunge pool, the private ‘lux’ banya includes a swanky lounge area with leather furniture and a pool table.

TTours

Peter's Walking ToursWALKING

(%812-943 1229; www.peterswalk.com; Original tour/other tours R1500/from R2200 per person)

Established in 1996, Peter Kozyrev’s innovative and passionately led tours are highly recommended as a way to see the city with knowledgable locals. The daily Original Peterswalk is one of the favourites, and leaves daily from Hostel Life ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-318 1808; www.hostel-life.ru; Nevsky pr 47, Vosstaniya; dm from R950, tw/tr R3325/3515; nW; mMayakovskaya) at 10.30am from late March to late October.

Anglo TourismoBOATING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %921-989 4722; www.anglotourismo.com; 27 nab reki Fontanki; 1hr tour adult/student R1000/850; mGostiny Dvor)

There’s a huge number of companies offering cruises all over the Historic Heart, all with similar prices and itineraries. But Anglo Tourismo is the only operator to run tours with commentary in English. Between May and September the schedule runs every 1½ hours between 11am and 6.30pm. From 1 June to 31 August there are also additional night cruises.

The company also runs free daily walking tours starting at 10.30am and lasting three hours.

Sputnik ToursWALKING

(%499-394 1600; www.sputnik8.com)

This online tour agency is one with a difference: they act as a market place for locals wanting to give their own unique tours of the city. Browse, select a tour, register and pay a deposit and you'll be given the contact number of the guide. A superb way to meet locals.

4Sleeping

Soul Kitchen HostelHOSTEL€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %965-816 3470; www.soulkitchenhostel.com; nab reki Moyki 62/2, apt 9, Sennaya; dm/d from R790/3380; niW; mAdmiralteyskaya)

Soul Kitchen blends boho hipness and boutique-hotel comfort, scoring perfect 10s in many key categories: private rooms (chic), dorm beds (double-wide with privacy-protecting curtains), common areas (vast), kitchen (vast and beautiful) and bathrooms (downright inviting). There is also bike hire, table football, free Macs to use, free international phone calls and stunning Moyka views from a communal balcony.

Friends Hostel on GriboedovHOSTEL€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-331 7799; www.friendsplace.ru; nab kanala Griboyedova 20; dm/d from R500/1800; iW; mNevsky Prospekt)

In a quiet courtyard near Kazan Cathedral, this is our favourite out of the many branches of this truly friendly, very colourful hostel chain. The dorms and rooms are spotless, have lockers and share good bathrooms and a kitchen. Perks include free international calls, English-speaking staff and organised daily events such as pub crawls and historical walks.

Baby Lemonade HostelHOSTEL€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-570 7943; www.facebook.com/babylemonadehostel; Inzhernernaya ul 7; dm/d with shared bathroom from R790/2590, d from R3250; iW; mGostiny Dvor)

The owner of Baby Lemonade is crazy about the 1960s and it shows in the pop-art, psychedelic design of this friendly, fun hostel with two pleasant, large dorms and a great kitchen and living room. It's worth splashing out for the boutique-hotel-worthy private rooms that are in a separate flat with great rooftop views.

5Eating

MarketplaceRUSSIAN, INTERNATIONAL€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://market-place.me; Nevsky pr 24; mains R200-300; h8am-5.30am; Wv; mNevsky Prospekt)

The most central branch of this mini-chain that brings a high-class polish to the self-serve canteen concept, with many dishes cooked freshly on the spot . The hip design of the multi-level space is very appealing, making this a great place to linger, especially if you indulge in one of the desserts or cocktails served on the 1st floor.

Jack & ChanINTERNATIONAL€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-982 0535; http://jack-and-chan.com; Inzhenernaya ul 7; mains R350; h10am-midnight; W; mGostiny Dvor)

The restaurant name, a punning reference to Jackie Chan in Russian, neatly sums up the burger-meets-Asian menu at this fine and stylish casual diner. Try the sweet-and-sour fish and the prawn-and-avocado salad with glass noodles.

BibliotekaINTERNATIONAL€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-244 1594; www.ilovenevsky.ru; Nevsky pr 20; mains R250-450; hcafe/restaurant 8am-11pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat, bar 5pm-2am; W; mNevsky Prospekt)

You could spend the better part of a day here. Ground floor is a waiter-service cafe where it's difficult to avoid being tempted by the cake and dessert display by the door; next up is a more formal restaurant; and on the top floor there's a multi-roomed lounge bar with live music and DJs late into the night.

6Drinking & Nightlife

oZiferbergANTI-CAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %981-180 7022; http://ziferburg.ziferblat.net; Bolshaya Konyushennaya 9; R2-480; h11am-midnight Sun-Thu, 11am-7am Fri & Sat; W; mNevsky Prospekt)

Occupying much of the 3rd-floor gallery of Passage is this anti-cafe with a range of quirky, boho-hipster decorated spaces, some intimate, others very social. There's an excellent range of activities to enjoy with your coffee or tea, from boardgames and movies to concerts by classical music students, particularly on the weekends.

BorodabarCOCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Kazanskaya ul 11; h5pm-2am Sun-Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat; W; mNevsky Prospekt)

Boroda means beard in Russian, and sure enough you'll see plenty of facial hair and tattoos in this hipster cocktail hangout. The mixologists really know their stuff – we can particularly recommend their smoked old fashioned, which is infused with tobacco smoke, and their colourful (and potent) range of shots.

RadiobabyBAR, CLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Kazanskaya ul 7; h6pm-6am; mNevsky Prospekt)

Go through the arch at Kazanskaya 5 (not 7 – that’s just the street address), turn left through a second arch and you’ll find this super-cool barnlike bar on your right. It's divided into several different rooms, there's a ‘no techno, no house’ music policy, table football, a relaxed crowd and an atmosphere of eternal hedonism. After 10pm the place becomes more a club than a bar.

3Entertainment

Mariinsky TheatreOPERA, BALLET

(Мариинский театр MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-326 4141; www.mariinsky.ru; Teatralnaya pl 1; tickets R1000-6000; mSadovaya)

Petersburg's most spectacular venue for ballet and opera, the Mariinsky Theatre is an attraction in its own right. Tickets can be bought online or in person, but they should be bought in advance during the summer months. The magnificent interior is the epitome of imperial grandeur, and any evening here will be an impressive experience.

Mikhailovsky Opera & Ballet TheatreOPERA, BALLET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-595 4305; www.mikhailovsky.ru; pl Iskusstv 1; tickets R300-4000; mNevsky Prospekt)

While not quite as grand as the Mariinsky, this illustrious stage still delivers the Russian ballet or operatic experience, complete with multi-tiered theatre, frescoed ceiling and elaborate concerts. Pl Iskusstv (Arts Square) is a lovely setting for this respected venue, which is home to the State Academic Opera & Ballet Company.

It’s generally easier and cheaper to get tickets to the performances staged here than those at the Mariinsky.

8Information

American Medical Clinic ( GOOGLE MAP ; %812-740 2090; www.amclinic.ru; nab reki Moyki 78; h24hr; mAdmiralteyskaya) One of the city’s largest private clinics.

Apteka Petrofarm ( GOOGLE MAP ; Nevsky pr 22; h24hr) All-night pharmacy.

Ost-West Kontaktservice ( GOOGLE MAP ; %812-327 3416; www.ostwest.com; Ligovsky pr 10; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat; mPloshchad Vosstaniya) Can find you an apartment to rent and organise tours and tickets.

Tourist Information Bureau ( GOOGLE MAP ; %812-310 2822; http://eng.ispb.info; Sadovaya ul 14/52; h10am-7pm Mon-Fri, noon-6pm Sat; mGostiny Dvor) There are also branches outside the Hermitage, St Isaac’s Cathedral and at Pulkovo Airport.

8Getting There & Away

International and domesitc flights touch down at Pulkovo International Airport (LED; %812-337 3822; www.pulkovoairport.ru).

MOSCOW TO ST PETERSBURG

The fastest trains between Moscow and St Petersburg are the Sapsan services (from R2600, three to four hours, six daily). There are also around 10 overnight services, which can take anywhere from seven to 11 hours (platskart/kupe from R1000/2200). Tickets often sell out in the high months, but keep your plans flexible and you should be able to find something, even at the last minute. Many flights (from R2300) also connect the two cities and they rarely sell out.

8Getting Around

To/from the Airport

From Pulkovo International Airport, an official taxi to the centre should cost around R900, or you can take the bus to Moskovskaya metro station for R30, then take the metro from Moskovskaya (Line 2) all over the city for R35 – a journey of about 50 minutes all told.

Public Transport

The metro is usually the quickest way around the city. Zhetony (tokens) and credit-loaded cards can be bought from booths in the stations (R35).

If you are staying more than a day or two, it’s worth buying one of the multiple journey passes, starting with the 10 journey pass (R330) valid for seven days.

The St Petersburg Card (https://petersburgcard.com; from R2500 for two days) a sightseeing smart card, can also be used to travel on public transport and also includes entrance to over 50 city museums, free or discounted tours, and a rechargeable transport card.

Buses, trolleybuses and marshrutky (minibuses; fares R35) often get you closer to the sights and are especially handy to cover long distances along main avenues like Nevsky pr.

Taxi

Unofficial taxis are common. Official taxis (four-door Volga sedans with a chequerboard strip down the side and a green light in the front window) have meters that drivers sometimes use, though you most often pay a negotiated price.

Peterhof

The 'Russian Versailles', Peterhof (Петергоф, also known as Petrodvorets), 29km west of the city, was built for Peter the Great. A major casuality of WWII, the palace and grounds are largely a reconstruction best visited for its Grand Cascade ( GOOGLE MAP ; ul Razvodnaya 2; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 8.30pm Sat, to 7pm Sun, May-early Oct) and Water Avenue, a symphony of over 140 fountains and canals located in the Lower Park (Нижний парк GOOGLE MAP ; http://eng.peterhofmuseum.ru; adult/student R500/250, free Nov-Apr; h9am-8pm). There are several additional palaces, villas and parks here, each of which charges its own hefty admission price.

Buses and marshrutky to Petrodvorets (R55, 30 minutes) run frequently from outside metro stations Avtovo and Leninsky Prospekt. From May to September, the Peterhof Express ( GOOGLE MAP ; http://www.peterhof-express.com/; adult single/return R700/1200, student single/return R500/900; h10am-6pm) hydrofoil leaves from jetties behind the Hermitage and behind the Admiralty.

Tsarskoe Selo

Tsarskoe Selo (Цaрское Селo), 25km south of the city in the town of Pushkin, is home to the baroque Catherine Palace (Екатерининский дворец GOOGLE MAP ; http://eng.tzar.ru; Sadovaya ul 7; adult/student R400/200, audioguide R150; h10am-4.45pm Wed-Sun), expertly restored following its near destruction in WWII. From May to September individual visits to Catherine’s Palace are limited to noon to 2pm and 4pm to 4.45pm, other times being reserved for tour groups.

From late April to October there is also an entry charge to the beautiful surrounding Catherine Park (adult/child R120/60), otherwise this is free.

The easiest way to get to Tsarskoe Selo is by marshrutka (R35) from Moskovskaya metro station.

Kaliningrad Region

Sandwiched between Poland and Lithuania, the Kaliningrad Region is a Russian exclave that’s both intimately attached to the Motherland also a world apart. This ‘Little Russia’ – only 15,100 sq km with a population of 941,873 – offers an intriguing capital, beautiful countryside, charming old Prussian seaside resorts and splendid beaches.

Kaliningrad

%4012 / Pop 431,900

The region's capital, Kaliningrad (Калининград, formely Königsberg), was once a Middle European architectural gem equal to Prague or Kraków. Precious little of this built heritage remains, but there are attractive residential suburbs and remnants of the city’s old fortifications that evoke the Prussian past.

1Sights

The once densely populated Kant Island is now a parkland dotted with sculptures and dominated by the Cathedral. A few nearby buildings – the former Stock Exchange from the 1870s and the neo-traditional row of shops, restaurants and hotels known as Fish Village – hint at what this area looked like pre-WWII. Get a bird's-eye view from the 31m-high lighthouse viewing tower ( GOOGLE MAP ; R50; h10am-10pm).

Kaliningrad CathedralCHURCH

(Кафедральный собор Кёнигсберга GOOGLE MAP ; %4012-631 705; www.sobor-kaliningrad.ru; Kant Island; adult/student R150/130, photos R50, concerts R250-300; h10am-5pm)

Photos displayed inside this Unesco World Heritage Site attest to how dilapidated the cathedral was until the early 1990s – the original dates back to 1333. The lofty interior is dominated by an ornate organ used for regular concerts. Upstairs, the carved-wood Wallenrodt Library has interesting displays of old Königsberg. The top floor is devoted to Immanuel Kant; the exhibition includes his death mask. Kant's tomb (могила Канта) is on the building's outer north side.

oMuseum of the World OceanMUSEUM

(Музей Мирового Океана GOOGLE MAP ; www.world-ocean.ru/en; nab Petra Velikogo 1; adult/student R300/150, individual vessels adult/student R150/100; h10am-6pm Wed-Mon)

Strung along the banks of the Pregolya River are the several ships, a sub, maritime machinery and exhibition halls that make up this excellent museum. The highlight is the handsome former scientific expedition vessel Vityaz, moored alongside the Viktor Patsaev, with its exhibits relating to space research; visits are by guided tour (included in admission price) every 45 minutes. The pre-atomic B-413 submarine gives a taste of what life was like for its former 300 inhabitants.

WORTH A TRIP

SVETLOGORSK & KURSHSKAYA KOSA NATIONAL PARK

It’s easy to access the region’s other key sights on day trips from Kaliningrad, but if you did want to spend time away from the city, base yourself in the charming seaside resort of Svetlogorsk (Светлогорск) which is only a few hours’ drive down the Baltic coast from the pine forests and Sahara-style dunes of the Kurshskaya Kosa National Park (Национальный парк Куршская коса www.park-kosa.ru; admission per person/car R40/300), a Unesco World Heritage Site.

4Sleeping

Akteon Lindros HostelHOSTEL€

(Хостел Актеон Линдрос GOOGLE MAP ; %900-568 3333; www.akteon-hostel.ru; ul Svobodnaya 23; dm/d from R400/1200; W)

Quiet and clean, this new hostel offers standard-issue bunks, a good kitchen and happy-to-help staff. It's well serviced by public transport: buses 5, 9, 12, 14 and 35 will get you there from the city centre.

8Information

Citizens of Japan and many European countries can visit Kaliningrad on a 72-hour visa, but this needs to be arranged in advance with local travel agents.

Regional Tourism Information Centre ( GOOGLE MAP ; %4012-555 200; www.visit-kaliningrad.ru; pr Mira 4; h9am-8pm Mon-Fri & 11am-6pm Sat May-Sep, 9am-7pm Mon-Fri & 11am-4pm Sat Oct-Apr) Helpful, English-speaking staff and lots of information on the region.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Khrabrovo airport (%4012-610 620; www.kgd.aero) is 24km north of the city.

Bus

Mainly local buses depart from the Yuzhny bus station ( GOOGLE MAP ; ul Zheleznodorozhnaya 7), as well as international bus services run by Ecolines ( GOOGLE MAP ; %4012-758 733; www.ecolines.net) to Warsaw and several German cities. Könnig Avto ( GOOGLE MAP ; %4012-999 199; www.kenigauto.com) international services leave from the international bus station (Moskovsky pr 184); there’s a Könnig Avto booking office at Yuzhny vokzal.

Train

All long-distance and most local trains go from Yuzhny vokzal (Южный вокзал, South Station pl Kalinina), some passing through, but not always stopping, at Severny vokzal (Северный вокзал, North Station GOOGLE MAP ; pl Pobedy).

Local train services (ie those between Kaliningrad and Svetlogorsk) run on local time, but those beyond the region to Moscow, St Petersburg and abroad have their arrival and departure times listed in Moscow time; if a Moscow-bound train is scheduled to depart at 10am it will leave at 9am Kaliningrad time.

8Getting Around

Trams, trolleybuses (both R10), buses (R12) and minibuses (R12 to R17) will get you most places. For the airport, take bus 144 from the Yuzhny bus station (R30, 30 minutes). A taxi to/from the airport is R450 with Taxi Kaliningrad (%4012-585 858; www.taxi-kaliningrad.ru).

Russia Survival Guide

8Directory A–Z

Accommodation

There has been a boom in hostels in both Moscow and St Petersburg, and if you’re on a budget you’ll want to consider these. Prices run at R600 to R1000 for a dorm bed, and under R3000 for a private room with a shared bathroom. Elsewhere hotel rooms with a bathroom start at about R3000.

EATING PRICE RANGES

The following price categories are for the cost of a main course:

€ less than R500

€€ R500 to R1000

Business Hours

Note that most museums close their ticket offices one hour (in some cases 30 minutes) before the official closing time.

ABanks 9am to 6pm Monday to Friday, some open 9am to 5pm Saturday

ABars & Restaurants noon to midnight

AShops 10am to 9pm Monday to Friday, to 7pm Saturday and Sunday

Gay & Lesbian Travellers

Russia is a conservative country and being gay is generally frowned upon. LGBT people face stigma, harassment, and violence in their everyday lives.

Homosexuality isn't illegal, but promoting it (and other LGBT lifestyles) is. What constitutes promotion is at the discretion of the authorities.

There are active and relatively open gay and lesbian scenes in both Moscow and St Petersburg. Elsewhere, the gay scene tends to be underground.

For a good overview, visit http://english.gay.ru.

Internet Resources

ARedtape.ru (www.redtape.ru)

AVisit Russia (www.visitrussia.org.uk)

AWay to Russia (http://waytorussia.net)

Money

The Russian currency is the rouble, written as‘рубль’ and abbreviated as ‘руб’ or ‘р’. Coins come in amounts of R1, R2, R5 and R10 roubles, with banknotes in values of R10, R50, R100, R500, R1000 and R5000.

ATMs that accept all major credit and debit cards are everywhere, and most restaurants, shops and hotels in major cities take plastic. You can exchange dollars and euros (and some other currencies) at most banks; when they’re closed, try the exchange counters at top-end hotels. You may need your passport. Note that crumpled or old banknotes are often refused. Many banks cash travellers cheques for a small commission.

Public Holidays

Many businesses are closed from 1 to 7 January. Russia’s main public holidays are as follows:

ANew Year’s Day 1 January

ARussian Orthodox Christmas Day 7 January

ADefender of the Fatherland Day 23 February

AInternational Women’s Day 8 March

AEaster Monday April

AInternational Labour Day/Spring Festival 1 May

AVictory Day 9 May

ARussian Independence Day 12 June

AUnity Day 4 November

Safe Travel

Petty theft and pickpockets are prevalent in both Moscow and St Petersburg, so be vigilant with your belongings.

Some police officers can be bothersome, especially to dark-skinned or foreign-looking people. Other members of the police force target tourists, though reports of tourists being hassled about their documents and registration have declined. Still, you should always carry a photocopy of your passport, visa and registration stamp. If you are stopped for any reason – legitimate or illegitimate – you will surely be hassled if you don’t have these.

Sadly, racism is a problem in Russia. Be vigilant on the streets around Hitler’s birthday (20 April), when bands of right-wing thugs have been known to roam around spoiling for a fight with anyone who doesn’t look Russian.

Telephone

The international code for Russia is 7. The international access code from landline phones in Russia is 8, followed by 10 after the second tone, followed by the country code.

The three main mobile-phone companies, all with prepaid and 4G internet options, are Beeline (www.beeline.ru), Megafon (www.megafon.ru) and MTS (www.mts.ru). Company offices are everywhere. It costs almost nothing to purchase a SIM card, but bring your passport.

Local telecom rules mean mobile calls or texts from your ‘home’ city or region to another city or region are more expensive – essentially long-distance calls/texts. So active callers should consider purchasing a Moscow SIM while in Moscow, and a St Petersburg SIM while in St Petersburg.

Mobile phone numbers start interchangeably with either the country code (7) or the internal mobile code (8), plus three digits that change according to the service provider, followed by a seven-digit number. Nearly all Russians will give you their mobile number with an initial 8, but if you're dialing from a non-Russian number (ie your own on roaming), replace this 8 with a 7.

To call a mobile phone from a landline, the line must be enabled to make paid calls (all local numbers are free from a landline anywhere in Russia). To find out if this is the case, dial 8, and then if you hear a second tone you can dial the mobile number in full. If you hear nothing, hang up – you can’t call anywhere but local landlines from here.

Visas

Practically everyone needs a visa to visit Russia. For most travellers a tourist visa (single- or double-entry, valid for a maximum of 30 days) will be sufficient. If you plan to stay longer than a month, you can apply for a business visa or – if you are a US citizen – a three-year multi-entry visa.

To obtain a visa, everyone needs an invitation, also known as ‘visa support’. Hotels and hostels will usually issue anyone staying with them an invitation voucher free or for a small fee (typically around €20 to €30). If you are not staying in a hotel or hostel, you will need to buy an invitation – this can be done through travel agents or specialist visa agencies, also for around €20.

Invitation voucher in hand, you can then apply for a visa. Start by entering details in the online form of the Consular Department of the Russian Ministry of Foreign Affairs (https://visa.kdmid.ru/PetitionChoice.aspx).

Take care in answering the questions accurately on this form, including listing all the countries you have visited in the last 10 years and the dates of the visits – stamps in your passport will be checked against this information and if there are anomalies you will likely have to restart the process. Keep a note of the unique identity number provided for your submitted form – if you have to make changes later, you will need this to access it without having to fill in the form again from scratch.

Some Russian embassies (eg those in the UK and US) have contracted separate agencies to process the submission of visa applications; these companies use online interfaces that direct the relevant information into the standard visa application form.

Consular offices apply different fees and slightly different application rules country by country. Avoid potential hassles by checking well in advance what these rules might be.

The charge for the visa will depend on the type of visa applied for and how quickly you need it. We highly recommend applying for your visa in your home country rather than on the road.

Registration

Every visitor to Russia must have their visa registered within seven days of arrival, excluding weekends and public holidays. Registration is handled by your accommodating party. If staying in a homestay or rental apartment, you’ll need to make arrangements with either the landlord or a friend to register you through the post office. See http://waytorussia.net/RussianVisa/Registration.html for how this can be done.

Once registered, you’ll receive a registration slip. Keep this safe – that’s the document that any police who stop you will ask to see. You do not need to register more than once unless you stay in additional cities for more than seven days, in which case you’ll need additional registration slips.

Immigration Form

Immigration forms are produced electronically by passport control at airports. If you are arriving by land, ask for the form at the border if it is not provided by the immigration officials.

Take good care of your half of the completed form as you’ll need it for registration and could face problems while travelling in Russia – and certainly will on leaving – if you can’t produce it.

8Getting There & Away

Air

There are international flights into and out of Moscow and St Petersburg.

Land

Russia has excellent train and bus connections with the rest of Europe. However, many routes connecting St Petersburg and Moscow with points east – including Kaliningrad – go through Belarus, for which you’ll need a transit visa. Buses are the best way to get from St Petersburg to Tallinn. St Petersburg to Helsinki can be done by bus or train, as well as by boat.

From Eastern Europe you are most likely to enter Russia from Estonia at Narva; from Latvia at Rēzekne; from Belarus at Krasnoye or Ezjaryshcha; and from Ukraine at Chernihiv. You can enter Kaliningrad from Lithuania and Poland at any of seven border posts.

Sea

Between early April and late September, international passenger ferries connect Stockholm, Helsinki and Tallinn with St Petersburg’s Morskoy Vokzal (Морской вокзал GOOGLE MAP ; pl Morskoy Slavy 1).

8Getting Around

Air

Booking flights within Russia online is easier than ever, and domestic flights are relatively cheap. Tickets can also be purchased at ubiquitous avia kassa (ticket offices). Online agencies specialising in Russian air tickets with English interfaces include Anywayanyday (%8-800-775 7753; www.anywayanyday.com) and Pososhok.ru (%8-800-333 8118; www.pososhok.ru).

Bus

Buses and marshrutky (fixed-route vans or minibuses) are often more frequent, more convenient and faster than trains, especially on short-distance routes. There’s almost no need to reserve a seat – just arrive a good 30 minutes before the scheduled departure and buy a ticket. Prices are comparable to 3rd-class train fares. Marshrutky fares tend to be double those of buses and they usually leave when full, rather than according to a schedule. Where roads are good, marshrutky can be twice as fast as buses.

Taxi

Russian cities have plenty of official taxis, but few people think twice about flagging down any car to request a ride. A fare is negotiated for the journey – simply state your destination and ask ‘skolko?’ (how much?), and off you go. Proceed with caution if you are alone and/or it’s late at night, especially if you are a woman. While exceedingly rare, violent attacks on passengers have occurred.

Train

Russia’s extensive train network is efficiently run by Russian Railways (RZD; http://rzd.ru). Prigorodny (suburban) or short-distance trains – also known as elektrichki – do not require advance booking: you can buy your ticket at the prigorodny poezd kassa (suburban train ticket offices) at train stations.

Tickets can be bought online from RZD. Bookings open 45 days before the date of departure. You’d be wise to buy well in advance over the busy summer months and holiday periods such as New Year and early May, when securing berths at short notice on certain trains can be difficult. On long-distance trains the cheapest fares are 3rd class (platskartny) followed by 2nd-class sleeper (kupe) and 1st-class (SV).

At stations, you’ll need your passport (or a photocopy) to buy tickets. You can buy tickets for others if you bring their passports or photocopies. Be prepared for long, slow queues. At train ticket offices (‘Zh/D kassa’ ,short for ‘zheleznodorozhnaya kassa’), which are all over most cities, you can pay a surcharge of around R200 and avoid the queues. Alternatively, most travel agencies will organise the reservation and delivery of train tickets for a substantial mark-up.