CITIZEN RAW

Matthew Kenney and the Art of the Uncooked

The tipping point for Matthew Kenney came in 2002.

He was sitting at a table in a New York City vegan restaurant, slurping a stew. It gave him an idea: I could do this. I could open a vegan restaurant.

At the time, Matthew was 12 years into his culinary career. He had already made a name for himself as an award-winning (nonvegan) chef and restaurateur. But he had been thinking about veganism and raw food—how it aligned with his yoga practice and his love of animals and his outlook on health and the environment—but it wasn’t until that night that he realized he could take the concept to the next level: plant-based fine dining. No one was doing it yet. “I saw that as the opening to make the change,” Matthew says.

Over the next year, Matthew made a total switch to veganism, both personally and professionally. “I had to relearn everything I thought I knew about food,” he says. He had heard the stories: Switching to a plant-based diet improves your sleep, your digestion, your skin. But still, he was shocked at the transformation he witnessed—physically, but also emotionally and spiritually. “I think it would surprise anyone.”

In the years since, the raw food movement has swelled, thanks in large part to Matthew, with more chefs and diners alike expressing interest in the lifestyle. Matthew sees plant-based food not as a niche interest reserved for the ultra-health-conscious and yogi types. He wants it to go mainstream. “I want people to see how good plants can taste, the good it can do in the world, how great you’ll feel.”

While he has opened eight (and counting) plant-based restaurants across the country, Matthew has turned much of his attention to teaching a new generation of professional chefs and home cooks how to tackle raw and vegan food. Through his cookbooks (he’s written 13) and culinary program, he’s giving people the tools to navigate this whole new approach to food. “I think a lot of that is what’s been holding plant-based food back,” Matthew says. People simply didn’t know what to do with it, that it’s more than just salads. That’s all changing. Matthew Kenney Culinary, the first academy of its kind, has already graduated thousands of students.

So maybe it’s not so crazy that a dish like raw Heirloom Tomato Lasagna will start to replace burgers and roast chicken as dinner staples. At least maybe one night a week.

“It’s not about judging,” he says. When he tells people about raw foods, he always starts with the same line: Just try it. “But do I think their life would be enhanced?” he asks. “Yes.”

MATTHEW KENNEY

FOOD MANTRA

Stick to seasonal ingredients produced locally.

PANTRY STAPLES

Lemons, olive oil, almonds, almond butter, hearty greens (kale and spinach for smoothies), avocados, fresh tomatoes, Fuji apples, Medjool dates (my favorite snack), kombucha, coconut water.

FOREVER MEAL

Avocado and tomato with some good crusty bread.

FOOD RITUAL

My morning is a lot like other people’s: I meditate as soon as I wake up, then I drink a tall glass of water with lemon juice squeezed in it.

FOOD HEROES

The real heroes are the farmers and producers.

HEALTHY-EATING TIP

I think everybody knows intuitively that there is no perfect way to eat. Start by selecting a day of the week, or even a meal, and create a really great meal. Raw food is an amazing way to reset. Then, listen to your body and decide how to move forward.

RECIPES BY MATTHEW KENNEY

Maca-Banana Shake

Native to the high Andes of Peru, maca is a cruciferous plant that has been used for both nutritional and medicinal purposes by indigenous Andean communities for thousands of years. Today, maca is still primarily cultivated in Peru, as well as in Bolivia and Brazil. The plant’s hard, dried taproots are ground to a powder, which can be stored for years. Maca is rich in calcium, potassium, essential minerals, and amino acids, and it is commonly used to boost libido and combat fatigue. SERVES 1 OR 2

1½ teaspoons ground cardamom

1 teaspoon finely grated nutmeg, plus more for garnish

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon ground cloves

1 teaspoon ground ginger

Pinch of freshly ground black pepper

2 ripe bananas, peeled and frozen

1 cup unsweetened Almond Milk (or store-bought) or coconut water

1 teaspoon maca powder (see note )

1 teaspoon agave syrup or coconut nectar

Pinch of sea salt

Make a spice blend by stirring together the cardamom, nutmeg, cinnamon, cloves, ginger, and pepper. Measure 1 teaspoon of the spice blend into a blender. (Store the remaining spice blend in an airtight jar at room temperature for up to 6 months.)

Add the bananas, almond milk or coconut water, maca, agave or coconut nectar, and salt. Blend at high speed until smooth. Pour into 1 or 2 serving glasses and garnish with grated nutmeg.

Note: Look for maca powder in health food stores or online. This shake can be made without maca, but it won’t have the same malty flavor or energy-boosting benefits.

What Is Raw?

Under a raw diet, no food is heated above 118°F. It is plant based and can include nuts and seeds. “This is food in its purest form,” says Matthew. The idea is that heating foods at a certain temperature can kill off a lot of the nutrients and natural enzymes. Some raw food practitioners will still eat unpasteurized dairy or raw fish or eggs, but the dishes here are all raw vegan, with no animal products whatsoever.

Thai Salad

with Curry Cashews

To achieve the right textures in this dish, you’ll have to start preparing the ingredients the day before. The curry cashews need to dehydrate overnight, until they’re crisp. Plus, a small amount of additional cashews must soak overnight so that they can be smoothly pureed and blended into the salty-sweet salad dressing. Lastly, don’t forget to soak the sun-dried tomatoes overnight as well. SERVES 4

CURRY CASHEWS

¼ teaspoon curry powder

½ teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil

5 grinds of black peppercorns

Pinch of sea salt

Pinch of ground turmeric

Pinch of coconut sugar

½ cup cashews

DRESSING

¼ cup sesame oil

2 tablespoons tamari

2 tablespoons cashews, soaked in water overnight, drained

1½ tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice

1 teaspoon maple syrup

1 fresh Thai chile pepper, thinly sliced (wear plastic gloves when handling), or 1 teaspoon red-pepper flakes

SALAD

1 cup finely diced fresh pineapple

½ cup sun-dried tomatoes, soaked overnight, drained, and thinly sliced

1 cup thinly sliced coconut meat

¾ cup finely diced red bell pepper

1 avocado, diced

Pinch of sea salt

2 handfuls of mixed greens

Rice wine vinegar

Fresh cilantro leaves

To make the curry cashews: In a large bowl, whisk together the curry, oil, pepper, salt, turmeric, and sugar. Add the cashews and toss to coat. Set aside at room temperature for 1 to 4 hours. Dehydrate the curry cashews overnight in a dehydrator set to 118°F, until completely dry. (Alternatively, place on a baking sheet and bake at the oven’s lowest temperature setting until completely dry, about 4 hours.)

To make the dressing: Using a blender or mini food processor, combine the oil, tamari, cashews, lime juice, maple syrup, and sliced pepper or pepper flakes until completely smooth.

To make the salad: In a large bowl, combine the pineapple, tomatoes, coconut, pepper, avocado, and salt. Add about half of the dressing and toss gently to coat. Spoon about 1 tablespoon of the remaining dressing in the center of each plate. Spritz the mixed greens with the vinegar and place over the dressing. Arrange the salad on top of the greens and garnish with the curry cashews and cilantro.

Kimchi

Traditional kimchi is often made with napa cabbage, a light-green and ruffled variety of cabbage. In this recipe, purple cabbage and thinly sliced carrot are added to the mix, and the result is a beautiful, brightly colored combination of fermented vegetables. MAKES ABOUT 6 CUPS

1 small or ½ large head napa cabbage

¼ small head purple cabbage

1 carrot, thinly sliced

2 teaspoons plus 1 tablespoon sea salt

¼ red bell pepper

1 scallion, white and green parts, chopped

2 cloves garlic

1 tablespoon finely grated fresh ginger

1½ teaspoons red-pepper flakes (more if you like spicy, less if you don’t)

2 teaspoons agave syrup

Separate and rinse the napa and purple cabbage leaves. Tear or slice into 2" pieces and place in a very large bowl with the carrot. Add 2 teaspoons of the salt and gently massage into the cabbage leaves. Set aside at room temperature while you prepare the seasoning paste. (As the cabbage and salt rest, the cabbage will release water.)

Using a food processor, combine the bell pepper, scallion, garlic, ginger, pepper flakes, agave, and the remaining 1 tablespoon salt. Pulse to finely chop.

Add the seasoning paste to the cabbage. Wearing gloves, use your hands to vigorously massage the seasoning paste evenly into all the cabbage leaves. The salt and pressure will cause the cabbage leaves to release additional liquid.

Transfer to a large glass container and firmly press down on the cabbage until all the leaves are completely submerged in liquid brine. Cover with a lid and set aside at room temperature, out of direct sunlight, for 2 to 3 days. Every 24 hours, remove the lid to release the pressure that builds up during fermentation, and then use a clean spoon to press down on the kimchi and force it under the brine. After 3 days, move the kimchi to the refrigerator, where it can be stored for months.

Kimchi Dumplings

with Purple Cabbage Puree and Ginger-Sesame Foam

Here’s a delicious way to serve all that Kimchi you’ve made. If you haven’t tried your hand at fermenting vegetables, see Chapter 8 for lots of recipes and ideas. Matthew serves these kimchi-filled dumplings alongside a silky purple cabbage puree and an impressive ginger-sesame foam. You can, of course, choose to serve the dumplings by themselves if you prefer. SERVES 4

CILANTRO WRAPPERS

1½ cups young coconut meat, chopped

1–1½ tablespoons freshly squeezed cilantro juice (see notes )

1–1½ tablespoons freshly squeezed spinach juice (see notes )

Pinch of sea salt

DUMPLINGS

½ cup Kimchi (or store-bought), drained, brine reserved for the puree

½ cup cashews, soaked in water for 1–2 hours, drained

1½ teaspoons tamari

1½ teaspoons sesame oil or 1 teaspoon melted coconut oil

1½ teaspoons raw tahini

½ teaspoon agave syrup

GINGER-SESAME FOAM

1 teaspoon lecithin (see notes )

½ cup freshly squeezed ginger juice (see notes )

¼ cup sesame oil

1½ teaspoons agave syrup

PURPLE CABBAGE PUREE

¼ small head purple cabbage, thinly sliced

¼ teaspoon sea salt

½ cup kimchi brine

¼ cup grapeseed oil

2 teaspoons lecithin (see notes )

Black sesame seeds

Microgreens

To make the cilantro wrappers: Using a high-speed blender, combine the coconut meat, 1 tablespoon of the cilantro juice, 1 tablespoon of the spinach juice, and the salt until completely smooth. If the mixture is too dry and won’t blend evenly, add up to another ½ tablespoon each cilantro juice and spinach juice. Spread the mixture in an even layer on a nonstick sheet and dehydrate in a dehydrator set to 118°F for 8 to 10 hours, until dry. (Or, place on a baking sheet and bake at lowest temperature setting until completely dry, about 4 hours.)

If the wrappers become too dry and brittle, gently brush them with water and let sit until the water has been absorbed. Repeat until the wrappers can be folded without cracking. Cut the sheet into 3½" squares. (Cut wrappers can be stored between sheets of parchment paper in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Let the wrappers warm at room temperature for a few minutes before folding them.)

To make the dumplings: Using a food processor, combine the kimchi, cashews, tamari, oil, tahini, and agave. Pulse until chopped but still chunky.

To make the foam: In a medium bowl, dissolve the lecithin in the ginger juice. Add the oil and agave. Using an immersion blender, blend until a thick foam appears on the surface. Froth the mixture again just before serving.

To make the purple cabbage puree: In a large bowl, toss together the cabbage and salt. Set aside at room temperature until softened, about 20 minutes. Transfer to a blender or food processor, add the kimchi brine, and puree until completely smooth. Add a splash of water if needed to achieve a smooth consistency. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve, discarding the solids, and return the strained liquid to the rinsed-out blender or food processor. Add the oil and lecithin, blend, and let rest for 5 to 10 minutes before serving.

To serve, lay the cilantro wrappers out on a cool workspace. Dab very lightly with water. Place about 1 tablespoon of kimchi filling in the center of each wrapper. Pull the edges up and around the filling, pressing to seal. Arrange the dumplings on a plate, spoon some purple cabbage puree on the side, and sprinkle with black sesame seeds. Garnish each plate with the ginger-sesame foam and a few microgreens.

Notes: Lecithin, a dietary supplement derived from soybeans, sunflowers, and other foods, helps stabilize the ginger-sesame foam in this dish. You can buy lecithin in health food stores and online, or you may choose to leave it out of this dish—the foam won’t be quite as foamy, but it’ll still taste great.

All juices called for in this recipe are based on juice made in a standard juicer. For the cilantro and spinach juice, you could substitute store-bought green juice.

Heirloom Tomato Lasagna

Raw lasagna? You bet! The traditional ricotta cheese layer is made from pureed macadamia nuts seasoned with nutritional yeast. And the noodles aren’t really noodles at all—they are noodle-shaped slices of fresh zucchini. You can use a spiralizer, if you have one, or just cut the zucchini by hand. Be sure to start preparing this dish a day or two before you plan to serve it. SERVES 4

MACADAMIA “RICOTTA”

1 cup macadamia nuts, soaked in water for 4–5 hours, drained

¼ cup water

2 teaspoons nutritional yeast (see note )

½ teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

¼ teaspoon sea salt

PISTACHIO PESTO

1 cup fresh basil leaves

¼ cup fresh spinach

¼ cup pistachios

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

½ teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

¼ teaspoon sea salt

Pinch of freshly ground black pepper

RED PEPPER MARINARA

½ cup sun-dried tomatoes, soaked in water for 4–5 hours, drained

1 medium tomato, chopped

1 shallot, chopped

1 small or ½ large red bell pepper, chopped

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

¼ teaspoon sea salt

¼ teaspoon red-pepper flakes

2 small zucchini, cut into “noodles”

2 large heirloom tomatoes, sliced ¼" thick

4 cherry tomatoes, halved

4 sprigs Micro basil

To make the “ricotta”: Using a blender, combine the nuts, water, nutritional yeast, lemon juice, and salt until completely smooth.

To make the pesto: In a food processor, combine the basil, spinach, pistachios, oil, lemon juice, salt, and pepper. Pulse until well combined but still slightly chunky.

To make the marinara: Using a blender, combine the sun-dried tomatoes, chopped tomato, shallot, bell pepper, oil, lemon juice, salt, and pepper flakes until completely smooth.

To serve, coil a few zucchini “noodles” in the center of each plate. Spoon 1 teaspoon of marinara, 1 teaspoon of pesto, and 1 teaspoon of “ricotta” over the zucchini. Top with 1 slice of heirloom tomato. Layer a few more zucchini “noodles,” followed by 1 teaspoon each of marinara, pesto, and “ricotta.” Top with another slice of tomato and a few more zucchini “noodles.” Spoon 1 teaspoon each of pesto and “ricotta” over the zucchini. Garnish with 2 cherry tomato halves and a sprig of micro basil.

Note: Nutritional yeast can often be found in the bulk aisle of health food stores. The yellow flakes taste cheesy and nutty and are a dairy-free substitute for the real deal.

Milk Chocolate Pudding

The way this simple pudding comes together feels a bit like magic. All the ingredients go into a blender and, after just a brief moment, you somehow have thick, creamy pudding—the very same texture as a cooked custard made from egg and milk. The secret is ripe avocado, which lends its smooth texture without imparting nearly any noticeable flavor. SERVES 2

1 ripe avocado

½ cup unsweetened Almond Milk (or store-bought) or seed milk

¼–½ cup agave or maple syrup

¼ cup unsweetened cacao powder

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Pinch of ground cinnamon

Pinch of sea salt

Using a blender, combine the avocado, almond milk or seed milk, ¼ cup of the agave or maple syrup, the cacao powder, vanilla, cinnamon, and salt until smooth. Taste and adjust the sweetness, adding another ¼ cup agave if you like. Serve the pudding in chilled glasses or small bowls.

Vegan Indulgence

When you think of dessert, raw or vegan food might not be the first thing that comes to mind. But that’s a misconception Matthew is keen on correcting. “I indulge every day,” he says. Whether it’s a raw chocolate pudding or Thai coconut ice cream or a slice of avocado toast on really good vegan bread, a treat is a treat. And he doesn’t really miss any of his former indulgences. “I don’t miss anything because I love everything I eat.”