TAMED FEAST:

Paella for a Smaller Crowd

FEEDS 8 TO 10

You can make this tamed paella feast indoors on the stovetop, outside on a kettle-style charcoal grill, or on a gas paella burner. (Depending on the shape of the grill the paella pan may hang over the edge of the grill, in which case you’ll have to rotate the pan.) The garnishes are optional. I use all of them but if you use at least three or four of them, you’ll still have the best paella in the neighborhood.

When you cut up the rabbit (or have your butcher do it), reserve the bones for the fortified stock and the thigh and saddle meat for the meatballs, if you’re making them.

Legs and racks from 1 RABBIT, or 1 small CHICKEN, cut into 6 pieces

KOSHER SALT and freshly ground BLACK PEPPER

1/4 cup OLIVE OIL, plus more as needed

1/2 recipe MINT-SCENTED RABBIT MEATBALLS (optional)

2 quarts FORTIFIED STOCK or Chicken Stock or as needed

2 cups DRY WHITE WINE

1/2 teaspoon SAFFRON THREADS

8 ounces SPANISH CHORIZO, thinly sliced into rounds

6 to 10 fresh SPRING ONIONS, red torpedo onions, or scallions

1 large YELLOW SPANISH ONION, diced

8 roasted PIQUILLO PEPPERS (from a jar), thinly sliced

6 GARLIC CLOVES, thinly sliced

4 ROMA TOMATOES, grated on the largest holes of a box grater

Minced rinds from 2 PRESERVED LEMONS or store-bought preserved lemons, or 2 regular lemons

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon smoked sweet PAPRIKA

1 teaspoon dried OREGANO

5 cups BOMBA RICE or other short-grain paella rice, such as Valenciana, rinsed and drained

1 cup jarred or canned BROAD BEANS or another large white bean, rinsed and drained

1 cup (about 1/4 pound) SUGAR SNAP PEAS, strings removed, thinly sliced on the bias, or 1/2 cup frozen petite peas

2 pounds MANILA CLAMS, scrubbed

1 pound jumbo or large (U-15 or 16–20) SHRIMP, shelled and deveined (reserve shells for stock)

1 recipe PORK CONFIT

For the Preserved Lemon Aioli

1 tablespoon finely chopped PRESERVED LEMON RIND or store-bought preserved lemons (about 1/2 lemon)

1 cup AIOLI (1 recipe) or store-bought mayonnaise

For Garnish (optional)

2 stems GREEN GARLIC or 1 bunch scallions, thinly sliced on the bias

1/4 cup whole CAPERBERRIES

10 to 15 fresh CILANTRO SPRIGS

5 FRESNO CHILES, thinly sliced into rounds

2 LEMONS, thinly sliced into rounds

MARASH OR ESPELETTE PEPPER, or smoked hot paprika

To prepare the paella, season the rabbit pieces with salt and pepper. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat until it is shimmering and slides easily in the pan, about 2 minutes. Add the rabbit and cook until it is deep brown, about 5 minutes per side. Transfer the rabbit legs to a baking sheet.

If you are including the meatballs, add more oil to the pan if there is not enough oil to cover and heat until it slides easily in the pan. Add as many meatballs as will fit in a single layer, and cook for 7 to 8 minutes, until they’re browned all over. Transfer the meatballs to the baking sheet with the rabbit and cook the remaining meatballs in the same way.

If you are cooking the paella outdoors, fire up a charcoal grill following the instructions in Cooking with Charcoal, or fire up a gas grill to high heat with the lid closed to help it get nice and hot. If you are cooking the paella indoors, preheat the pan on the stovetop over high heat. (If you have one very large burner, use that; otherwise straddle the pan over two burners.)

Combine the stock, wine, and saffron in a large pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat so the stock simmers gently until you are ready to use it.

Add enough oil to liberally cover the bottom of the pan. Add the chorizo and cook until the fat is rendered and the chorizo is lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Transfer the chorizo to a plate. Add the spring onions and diced onion to the fat in the pan, season with salt, and sauté, stirring often, until they begin to soften, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the piquillo peppers and garlic and sauté for 1 to 2 minutes more, stirring often, until the garlic is fragrant but not browned. Stir in the tomatoes, including any juices, the preserved lemon, paprika, and oregano and cook for a few minutes to reduce the liquid from the tomatoes. Spread the ingredients so they cover the pan in an even layer. Pour the rice evenly over the surface, add enough stock to just cover the rice, and stir gently to combine the ingredients. Scatter the chorizo, beans, and peas over the rice and nestle the clams, shrimp, rabbit, pork, and meatballs (if you are using them) in the rice. Cook the paella, without stirring, until the rice is cooked through and no longer wet, about 40 minutes. If it is cooked correctly but still too wet, increase the heat if possible to cook off the excess liquid. If the pan is dry but the rice is not cooked enough, add more stock to the pan and cook until the rice is done.

To make the preserved lemon aioli, stir the preserved lemon rind into the aioli.

Remove the paella from the heat and scatter whichever garnishes you are using over its surface. Cover the paella pan with foil and let it rest for 10 minutes before serving. Serve the paella straight from the pan, with the aioli on the side.