CHAPTER THREE

VEGETABLE AND HERB GARDENS

S tarting a garden is a cost-effective way to increase food security, but you need more than a handful of seeds to grow your own vegetables and herbs. With a clear plan, reasonable goals, and determination, you can harvest enough food to significantly reduce your grocery bill.

Successful gardeners raise crops best suited to their growing conditions. This chapter helps you determine which vegetables and herbs make the most sense for your homestead.

You’ll also create an action plan for the first growing season. We’ll discuss how to rotate crops, prepare your soil, build raised beds, plant in succession, and maintain a healthy garden. Check out the cost estimates, tables for choosing the best vegetables and herbs, and seasonal chores checklist. If you’re interested in preparing fresh dishes with your garden’s bounty, see the recipes here .

CREATE A PROJECT ACTION PLAN FOR YOUR VEGETABLE AND HERB GARDEN

Each time you pluck tomatoes or basil from the garden, you’re getting the freshest produce possible. With planning and regular care, a vegetable garden will provide an abundance of inexpensive food.

Use the Homestead Project Action Plan (HPAP) template to flesh out an action plan for your vegetable and herb garden. The following sections review all the considerations involved in creating a successful garden.

FEASIBILITY RESEARCH

To determine the feasibility of your garden project, let’s compare the cost of purchasing produce with raising your own and estimate the time commitment.

The USDA’s Economic Research Service (ERS) 2018 report on the retail price of fruits and vegetables lists the average costs per pound and serving for a variety of produce. According to the report, it was possible to purchase the daily vegetable requirement for a 2,000-calorie diet (2½ cups) for approximately $0.88. Here’s the report’s average retail prices for some common vegetables:

♦ 1 cup of fresh potatoes: $0.20

♦ 1 cup of frozen green beans: $0.56

♦ ½ cup of fresh, raw carrots: $0.12

To calculate the annual cost of vegetables needed per person, multiply the daily cost by 365: $0.88 × 365 = $321.20.

Your costs will vary according to local prices. When comparing vegetable costs, be sure to check the size of the package. Frozen vegetables are often sold in 12-ounce bags, so calculate the cost per ounce and multiply that by 16 to find the cost per pound.

The following table compares the average retail prices of common vegetables with the cost of seeds to grow your own. If you have limited space, concentrate on growing the foods you like best that also offer the most savings. For example, the table shows that large tomatoes offer the greatest cost savings.

This table assumes you are planting seeds, with the exception of potato sets. The average cost to plant per square foot is based on typical plant spacing (see the Summer and Winter Vegetables and Herbs table) and typical seed costs in 2020.

POTENTIAL SAVINGS FOR COMMON HOMEGROWN VEGETABLES

VEGETABLE	AVERAGE RETAIL COST/LB.	HOW MANY LBS. IN A 1-CUP SERVING	AVERAGE COST TO PLANT/SQ. FT.	YIELD IN LBS./SQ. FT.	COST TO PRODUCE 1 LB.	SAVINGS/LB.
BEANS, GREEN	$1.70 (frozen)	0.298	$0.26	0.2	$1.30	$0.40
CARROTS	$0.77 (fresh)	0.276	$0.47	1.0	$0.47	$0.30
ONIONS, STORAGE	$1.05 (fresh)	0.353	$0.26	1.3	$0.20	$0.85
POTATOES	$0.60 (fresh)	0.265	$0.30	1.0	$0.30	$0.30
SWEET CORN	$1.60 (frozen)	0.364	$0.03	0.3	$0.10	$1.50
TOMATOES, LARGE ROUND	$2.01 (fresh)	0.375	$0.07	2.0	$0.04	$1.97
ZUCCHINI	$1.64 (fresh)	0.397	$0.02	0.75	$0.03	$1.61

Retail prices from USDA Economic Research Service Fruit and Vegetable Prices; cost to grow based on typical seed and potato set prices in March 2020; yields based on USDA Vegetables 2019 Summary.

To calculate savings for each crop, use the Harvest Log template to track expenses and yield per square foot to determine your cost per pound to raise each vegetable. Use this price to compare your production costs with the retail price. Here’s how to calculate your final cost per pound for each crop: cost to plant / yield in pounds = cost to produce per pound.

In your action plan, determine whether you have the budget and time to raise vegetables and herbs. Compare the expected cost of materials to local prices and determine your budget. Read through the seasonal chores checklist for the approximate time commitment for garden tasks.

EXPECTED COST OF MATERIALS

Your action plan should include a section for estimating basic costs. List all the materials you need for the first year, including seeds, plants, pots, seed starting materials, tools, fertilizers, and gloves. Note one-time expenditures, too.*

Basic Vegetable and Herb Garden Cost Estimates:

♦ Seeds: $1 to $2 per pack

♦ Potting soil: $15 for 2 cubic feet

♦ Seed starting trays: $10 for 72 cell trays

♦ Garden spade*: $10 to $35

♦ Hoe*: $10 to $25

♦ Garden rake*: $10 to $25

♦ Trowel*: $2 to $12

♦ Tomato cages*: $2 to $20 each

Based on typical prices found online in March 2020.

*You may have to replace some one-time expenditures after a few years because of wear and tear.

EXPECTED YIELD PER YEAR

Check the Summer and Winter Vegetables and Herbs table for the average yield per square foot of common crops. Use the Expected Yield Per Year table in the HPAP template to estimate your yields. This will help you plan sufficient harvests for self-reliance or a homestead business.

ESTIMATED TIME

The following checklist of seasonal chores lays out the amount of time and energy a garden requires. Use it as a general guideline to fill in your weekly goals and plan your homestead calendar. Your list of chores will depend on what you raise. Customize this checklist to accommodate your needs and growing conditions.

SEASONAL CHORES FOR VEGETABLE AND HERB GARDENS

Spring

 CLEAN TOOLS: 30+ MINUTES

 TEST SOIL PH: 15+ MINUTES

 ADD COMPOST AND PREPARE GARDEN BEDS: 2+ HOURS PER BED

 START SEEDLINGS INDOORS; CHECK DAILY: 1+ HOUR

 START CROPS IN COLD FRAMES; CHECK DAILY: 1+ HOUR

 PLANT COOL-SEASON CROPS: 1+ HOUR

 HARDEN OFF TRANSPLANTS: SEVERAL DAYS

 WATER BEDS AND SEEDLINGS: 15+ MINUTES EVERY DAY

 PLANT PERENNIALS: 1+ HOUR

Summer

 PLANT WARM-SEASON CROPS: 1+ HOUR

 WATER, WEED, AND FERTILIZE CROPS: 1+ HOUR

 HARVEST, USE, AND PRESERVE PRODUCE: 1+ HOUR

 TREAT DISEASE AND PESTS: 15+ MINUTES

 PLANT COOL-SEASON CROPS FOR FALL: 1+ HOUR

Fall

 PLANT COOL-SEASON CROPS IN COLD FRAMES: 1+ HOUR

 HARVEST, USE, AND PRESERVE PRODUCE: 1+ HOUR

 GARDEN CLEANUP: 1+ HOUR

 SAVE HEIRLOOM SEEDS: 15+ MINUTES

 PLANT PERENNIALS: 1+ HOUR

Winter

 GROW MICROGREENS AND SPROUTS: 5 MINUTES DAILY

 GROW HARDY GREENS IN COLD FRAMES: 1+ HOUR

 PLAN GARDEN AND ORDER SUPPLIES: 2+ HOURS

 TEST GERMINATION RATES: 5+ MINUTES

 START COOL-SEASON CROPS INDOORS: 1+ HOUR

POTENTIAL PROBLEMS AND COST OF SOLUTIONS

Research common pests and diseases as well as prevention and treatment options. Your local Cooperative Extension Service office may offer free publications on the subject. Typical issues include aphid infestations, drought, powdery mildew, and plants destroyed by rabbits, deer, and woodchucks.

IS YOUR VEGETABLE AND HERB GARDEN PROJECT FEASIBLE THIS YEAR?

After reading through the chores checklist and the cost estimates, do you have the budget and time necessary to raise vegetables and herbs? If not, can you modify your plans to include a smaller garden? Use the HPAP template to record your ideas.

CREATING GOALS FOR VEGETABLE AND HERBS ACTION PLAN

If raising vegetables and herbs is feasible this year, it’s time to set your goals. Use the breakdown tables of weekly, monthly, and first-year goals in the HPAP template to guide your plans for the first season of your vegetable and herb garden. Start with your general goals, planning tasks in manageable chunks according to the best time frame for planting, harvesting, and preserving crops. Use a weekly breakdown for busy seasons, such as spring, and a monthly breakdown for winter, when you have fewer tasks to complete.

Let’s take a look at a sample weekly goal to plant a raised bed for vegetables, herbs, and pollinator-friendly flowers. This sample weekly goal assumes tools are already available. Use it to guide your step-by-step action plan.

Sample Weekly Goal: Install one 4-by-8-foot raised bed, fill with soil, and plant with vegetables, herbs, and flowers by the end of the first week of April.

DAY	TASKS TO COMPLETE	MATERIALS NEEDED	TIME	COST
MONDAY DATE: APRIL 1	 Purchase materials and level the bed location	 Raised bed kit (purchase)  Shovel  Level	5 to 7 hours	$80 + $5.80 tax
TUESDAY DATE: APRIL 2	 Assemble the raised bed and fill it with soil	 1.2 cubic yards of topsoil (2 cubic yards delivered for $80)	4 to 6 hours	$80
WEDNESDAY DATE: APRIL 3	 Rake the soil, measure out planting grids, install fencing for peas	 Twine  Fencing and 4 posts  Use scrap materials	2 to 4 hours	$0
THURSDAY DATE: APRIL 4	 Plant peas, lettuce, kale, collards, cabbage, broccoli, beets, turnips, green onions, cilantro, and dill seeds in bed; water them	 Packets of seeds ($2+ each)  Trowel  Gloves	3 to 4 hours	$28
FRIDAY TO SUNDAY DATES: APRIL 5 TO 7	 Water the plants in the raised bed		15 minutes per day for 3 days	$0
		Totals:	15 to 22 hours	$193.80

PREPARE YOUR HOMESTEAD FOR VEGETABLES AND HERBS

Many factors affect food production in your garden. You will get the best results if you improve soil health, reduce weeds and pests, water properly, and plan to increase yields. In this section, we dig into planning, crop rotation, planting in succession, building a raised bed, and choosing the best crops.

MAP OUT YOUR GARDEN

Planning your garden can be both fun and frustrating. If you’re starting a new garden, choose a spot close to the house and a garden hose for easy maintenance. Make sure your garden gets at least eight hours of sunlight each day and has well-drained soil. Keep the size manageable at first—you can always expand in the future. Measure the location and outline it with rocks or twine so you can visualize the space.

You can make planting day easier by creating a detailed garden map . Sketch out your garden on graph paper and label each bed. Note where plants grew last year, if applicable. Play around with your layout until you are happy with the arrangement (it’s so much easier to change plans on paper!).

Follow these steps to create your map:

1. Mark the direction of north and note the scale.

2. Draw an outline of each bed.

3. Note the locations of cold frames, fencing, trellis, and water.

4. Draw each crop on the map, leaving space for the mature size of the plant, and label it.

5. Rotate crop families according to the Crop Rotation chart below.

When you are satisfied with your layout, add it to your action plan and refer to it when you are ready to begin planting.

CROP ROTATION

Once you know the size and shape of your vegetable and herb beds, you’re ready to determine the crop layout. You can also plan crop rotation, which makes better use of soil nutrients and reduces disease.

Make a list of all the plants you intend to grow. Group them according to soil and nutrient needs. The basic plant groups are LEGUMES, LEAFY GREENS, FLOWERING AND FRUITING PLANTS , and ROOT CROPS .

Use the following Crop Rotation chart to map your planting beds.

CROP ROTATION

ROOT CROPS (LOW NITROGEN NEEDS)

Beets, carrots, garlic, onions, parsnip, potatoes, radishes, rutabaga, turnips

LEGUMES (FIX NITROGEN IN THE SOIL)

Alfalfa, beans, clover, cow peas, green peas

LEAFY GREENS (HIGH NITROGEN NEEDS)

Basil, brussels sprouts, cabbage, collards, kale, lettuce, mustard greens, spinach

FLOWERING AND FRUITING PLANTS (MODERATE NITROGEN NEEDS)

Cucumbers, eggplant, peppers, pumpkins, sunflowers, tomatoes, winter squash, zucchini

Companion Planting

Companion planting is the practice of pairing up plants that provide mutual benefits to each other, such as providing shade, improving soil conditions, and keeping pests at bay. Let’s look at a sample plan for a 4-by-10-foot bed using a modified three sisters (corn, beans, and pumpkins) companion planting. In this plan, you’ll mix and match similar crops in a grid layout.

Customize the plants and layout to fit your needs and space. Here are some considerations:

♦ Plan for spring, summer, and fall harvests.

♦ Raise crops adapted to your area.

♦ Choose crops you enjoy eating or that sell well.

♦ Use a grid layout for intensive planting.

♦ Use raised beds if your soil is poor or stays wet.

♦ Save space by growing vines up a trellis.

♦ Plant space-saving varieties, such as bush pumpkins, squash, and cucumbers.

♦ Mulch plants with compost for increased yields.

♦ Plant tall crops on the north side of the bed to prevent shading sun-loving crops.

♦ Space plants close enough to shade out weeds without crowding each other.

SAMPLE INTENSIVE-PLANTING GARDEN MAP

1 square = 1 foot × 1 foot

Succession Planting

Lots of gardeners plant all their crops at once. This is certainly easier to plan, but it isn’t as productive as succession planting. With this technique, you sow seeds at intervals to spread out harvests.

For example, you might sow cold-hardy kale seeds in early spring, grow lettuce in midspring, and follow up with Swiss chard. This strategy provides you with greens from early spring through fall.

SAMPLE SUCCESSION PLANTING SCHEDULE

WEEKS 1, 2, 3	WEEKS 4, 5, 6	WEEKS 7, 8, 9
Plant 2 sq. ft. of kale each week (early spring)	Plant 2 sq. ft. of lettuce each week (midspring)	Plant 2 sq. ft. of Swiss chard each week (late spring)

You may also replace cool-season crops with heat-lovers after the danger of frost has passed, then start a third planting of cool-season crops in late summer for a fall harvest. Check out the table below for potential plantings.

SAMPLE SUCCESSION PLANTING STRATEGY

LATE WINTER AND EARLY SPRING	LATE SPRING AND EARLY SUMMER	LATE SUMMER AND FALL
Cool-Season Crops: Beets, broccoli, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, cilantro, dill, green onions, kale, lettuce, parsnips, peas, radishes, rutabaga, spinach, turnips	Warm-Season Crops: Basil, beans, corn, cucumbers, eggplant, peppers, potatoes, pumpkins, savory, squash, sunflowers, tomatoes	Cool-Season Crops: Beets, broccoli, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, cilantro, dill, green onions, kale, lettuce, peas, radishes, spinach, turnips

Succession planting can get confusing, so create a plan, like the following sample, that specifies which crops to plant and when. Note the planting dates in your homestead calendar. As you work on your garden map, include crops for fresh eating and for preserving for winter.

Notes: Plant the bed with spring greens in April. Replace the greens with a main crop of a variety of tomatoes after the last frost date. Interplant with green onions and beets in fall.

♦ Spring lettuce: Plant April 1 to April 15.

♦ Spring spinach: Plant April 1 to April 15.

♦ Tomatoes: Start a variety of tomatoes indoors on April 1 and transplant to garden May 21 to May 28.

♦ Fall beets: Sow on September 1.

♦ Fall green onions: Sow on September 1.

SAMPLE SUCCESSION PLANTING PLAN (4-BY-10-FOOT BED)

1 square = 2 feet × 2 feet

Spring: Lettuce Main Crop: Cherry Tomato Fall: Beets	Spring: Lettuce Main Crop: Rutgers Tomato Fall: Beets	Spring: Lettuce Main Crop: Roma Tomato Fall: Beets	Spring: Lettuce Main Crop: Roma Tomato Fall: Beets	Spring: Lettuce Main Crop: Roma Tomato Fall: Beets
Fall: Green Onions Main Crop: Yellow Pear Tomato Spring: Spinach	Fall: Green Onions Main Crop: Brandywine Tomato Spring: Spinach	Fall: Green Onions Main Crop: Roma Tomato Spring: Spinach	Fall: Green Onions Main Crop: Roma Tomato Spring: Spinach	Fall: Green Onions Main Crop: Roma Tomato Spring: Spinach

BUILDING RAISED BEDS

A raised bed is a planting bed that sits above ground level. Raised beds have many advantages: They reduce problems with poor drainage and rocky soil, they warm up earlier in spring, and they are easier to tend, especially if you have trouble bending down. For easy access, limit the size of your beds to 3 or 4 feet wide.

You can build a raised bed with a variety of materials. Many are created with lumber and metal corner brackets. Kits are available, or you can use scrap wood and hold it in place with stakes. Avoid lumber treated with toxic chemicals.

Use soil rich in humus to fill raised beds. The square-foot method calls for a mixture of peat moss and other nonrenewable resources, but you can create your own soil for almost no money. Compost yard waste, manure, and kitchen scraps to fill the bed with rich black soil.

How to Build a Raised Bed

Here’s how to build a wood-framed raised bed from lumber and stakes or special corner brackets for your garden.

1. Choose a level spot in full sun.

2. Measure and cut 4 pieces of rot-resistant lumber for the sides.

3. Use raised bed corner brackets or stakes to hold the sides in place.

4. Line the bottom of the bed with cardboard to kill the grass.

5. Fill the bed with soil to 2 to 3 inches from the top.

6. Use twine to mark off 1-foot squares to make planning and planting easy.

Troubleshooting Tip: Wood rots over time, so check the frames each year. For a more permanent option, build raised beds out of repurposed concrete blocks or bricks.

CHOOSE THE BEST VEGETABLES AND HERBS

As you plan out your vegetable and herb garden, take note of which plants are related. Plants in the same family are usually prone to the same diseases, so rotate families to prevent problems. For example, don’t plant tomatoes in an area where you grew potatoes the year before.

Here are the basic plant families for vegetable and herb gardens.

Aster family. Includes chamomile, endive, lettuces, sunflowers, and tarragon. Common pests include leaf miners and aphids. Rotate crops to prevent powdery mildew.

Brassica family. Includes broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, Chinese cabbage, kale, kohlrabi, mustard greens, pak choi, radish, rutabaga, and turnip. Common pests include cabbage loopers, cutworms, and cabbage aphids. Rotate crops to prevent the fungal disease club root.

Carrot family. Includes caraway, carrot, celery, chervil, cilantro, dill, fennel, and parsnip. Common pests include carrot root maggots and root knot nematodes.

Cucurbit family. Includes cucumbers, gourds, melons, pumpkins, summer squash, and winter squash. Squash vine borer and squash bugs are common pests, and powdery mildew is a fungal disease often found on their leaves.

Goosefoot family. Includes beets, spinach, sugar beets, and Swiss chard. Common pests include leaf miners and earwigs. Rotate crops to prevent leaf spot and downy mildew.

Grass family. Includes barley, corn (including sweet corn), millet, oats, rice, rye, sorghum, and wheat. Common pests include corn earworms and cutworms. Rotate crops to reduce leaf blight and rust.

Legume family. Includes alfalfa, beans, clover, cow peas, peanuts, peas, and soybeans. Common pests include Japanese beetles and pea and bean weevils. Rotate crops to prevent fusarium wilt and tobacco mosaic virus.

Lily family. Includes asparagus, chives, garlic, leeks, onions, and shallots. The most common pest problem is the asparagus beetle. Rotate onions, shallots, leeks, and garlic to prevent diseases such as neck rot, onion smut, and pink root rot.

Mint family. Includes basil, catnip, lavender, marjoram, mint, oregano, rosemary, sage, and thyme. Pests and diseases aren’t usually problematic.

Nightshade family. Includes eggplant, ground cherry, peppers, potatoes, and tomatoes. Common pests include tomato hornworm, potato beetles, and flea beetles. Rotate crops to prevent verticillium wilt and tobacco mosaic virus.

COOL-SEASON AND WARM-SEASON VEGETABLES AND HERBS

Most crops fit into two broad groups according to their temperature requirements. Cool-season plants thrive in cool weather and some even tolerate a light frost, but their warm-season counterparts suffer in temperatures below 50°F to 60°F. Here are some common crops in each of those categories.

Common Cool-Season Vegetables and Herbs

These crops grow well in spring and fall. Direct seed in the garden when you can work the soil. Start seeds indoors or in a cold frame for an early start.

 ASPARAGUS (PERENNIAL)

 BEETS

 BROCCOLI

 BRUSSELS SPROUTS (CAN HANDLE HEAT)

 CABBAGE

 CARROTS

 CAULIFLOWER

 CHINESE CABBAGE

 CHIVES (PERENNIAL)

 GREEN ONION (CAN HANDLE HEAT)

 KALE

 LEEKS

 LETTUCE

 MUSTARD GREENS

 PAK CHOI

 PARSNIP (CAN HANDLE HEAT)

 PEAS

 RADISHES

 RHUBARB (PERENNIAL)

 RUTABAGA

 SPINACH

 SWISS CHARD (CAN HANDLE HEAT)

 TURNIPS

Common Warm-Season Vegetables and Herbs

Plant summer-loving vegetables and herbs after the last frost. Start seeds for melons, cucumbers, squash, eggplants, peppers, and tomatoes under lights indoors and harden off (slowly increase time outside) before transplanting them into the garden.

 BEANS

 CORN

 CUCUMBERS

 EGGPLANT

 MELONS

 PEPPERS (BELL AND CHILE)

 POTATOES

 PUMPKINS

 SUMMER SQUASH

 SWEET POTATOES

 TOMATOES

 WINTER SQUASH

 ZUCCHINI

SUMMER AND WINTER VEGETABLES AND HERBS

COMMON CROPS	SPACING	YIELD PER SQ. FT.*	TIME TO HARVEST FROM SEED	BEST GROWING CONDITIONS
ASPARAGUS	Plants: 18 in. Rows: 4 to 5 ft.	0.3 lb.	3 years (from crowns)	This perennial crop takes up to 3 years to produce a harvest; plant all male crowns in full sun with well-drained soil
BEANS, GREEN	Plants: 2 in. Rows: 24 to 30 in.	0.2 lb.	50 to 60 days	Full sun Depth to plant seeds: ½ in. Time to germinate: 8 to 10 days Germination temperatures: 60°F to 75°F Direct seed: After all danger of frost
BEETS	Plants: 2 in. Rows: 24 to 30 in.	0.8 lb.	50 to 60 days	Full sun to part shade Depth to plant seeds: ½ in. Time to germinate: 10 to 12 days Germination temperatures: 45°F to 85°F Direct seed: 2 to 3 weeks before last frost
BROCCOLI	Plants: 16 to 24 in. Rows: 24 to 30 in.	0.36 lb.	55 to 65 days	Full sun to light shade Depth to plant seeds: ½ in. Time to germinate: 4 to 7 days Germination temperatures: 45°F to 85°F Start indoors: 9 to 11 weeks before last frost; transplant into spring garden 4 weeks before last frost
BRUSSELS SPROUTS	Plants: 12 to 18 in. Rows: 24 to 36 in.	0.2 lb.	90 to 100+ days	Full sun Depth to plant seeds: ¾ in. Time to germinate: 7 to 10 days Germination temperatures: 60°F to 65°F Start indoors: 10 to 12 weeks before last frost; transplant to spring garden 3 to 4 weeks before last frost
CABBAGE	Plants: 12 to 18 in. Rows: 24 to 30 in.	0.8 lb.	80 to 180 days	Full sun Depth to plant seeds: ½ in. Time to germinate: 3 to 4 days Germination temperatures: 65°F to 70°F Start indoors: 4 to 6 weeks before last frost; transplant to the garden after the last frost is expected
CANTALOUPE	Plants: 2 to 3 ft. Rows: 6 ft.	0.5 lb.	80 to 100 days	Full sun Depth to plant seeds: 1 in. Time to germinate: 5 to 10 days Germination temperatures: 60°F to 95°F Start indoors: 3 to 4 weeks before last frost; transplant after all danger of frost
CARROTS	Plants: 1 to 4 in. Rows: 24 in.	1 lb.	60 to 80 days	Full sun Depth to plant seeds: ¼ to ½ in. Time to germinate: 2 to 3 weeks Germination temperature: 45°F Direct seed: 2 to 3 weeks before last frost
CAULIFLOWER	Plants: 15 to 24 in. Rows: 24 to 30 in.	0.5 lb.	85 to 115 days	Full sun to partial shade Depth to plant seeds: ½ in. Time to germinate: 8 to 10 days Germination temperatures: 45°F to 80°F Start indoors: 8 to 11 weeks before last frost; transplant to spring garden 3 to 4 weeks before last frost
CUCUMBERS	Plants: 12 in. Rows: 3 to 4 ft.	0.33 lb.	50 to 70 days	Full sun Depth to plant seeds: 1 in. Time to germinate: 3 to 10 days Germination temperatures: 65°F to 90°F Start indoors: 3 to 6 weeks before last frost; transplant to spring garden after all danger of frost
EGGPLANT	Plants: 24 in. Rows: 30 to 36 in.	0.45 lb.	100 to 160 days	Full sun Depth to plant seeds: ¼ in. Time to germinate: 7 to 14 days Germination temperatures: 80°F to 90°F Start indoors: 8 to 10 weeks before last frost; transplant to spring garden after all danger of frost
GARLIC	Plants: 4 to 6 in. Rows: 24 in.	0.4 lb.	1 year (from cloves)	Full sun Plant cloves in fall 1 in. deep for harvest the following fall
LETTUCE, LEAF	Plants: 4 to 8 in. Rows: 24 in.	0.44 lb.	45 to 65 days	Full sun to partial shade Depth to plant seeds: ¼ in. Time to germinate: 7 to 14 days Germination temperatures: 40°F to 70°F Direct seed: 2 to 3 weeks before last frost in spring; plant every 2 weeks for successive harvests
ONIONS, GREEN ONIONS, STORAGE	Plants: 2 in. Rows: 24 in. Plants: 4 to 8 in. Rows: 24 in.	0.6 lb. 1.3 lbs.	20 to 30 days 100 to 175 days	Full sun Depth to plant seeds: ¼ to ½ in. Time to germinate: 7 to 10 days Germination temperatures: 68°F to 77°F Start indoors: 8 to 12 weeks before the last frost (storage onions); transplant after danger of frost; onion sets may be planted 2 to 4 weeks before last frost; direct seed green onions
PEAS, GARDEN	Plants: 4 in. Rows: 18 to 24 in.	0.09 lb.	50 to 70 days	Full sun to partial shade Depth to plant seeds: 1 to 1½ in. Time to germinate: 7 to 14 days Germination temperatures: 45°F to 70°F Direct seed: 4 to 6 weeks before last frost
PEPPERS, BELL PEPPERS, CHILE	Plants: 18 to 24 in. Rows: 24 to 30 in.	0.74 lb. 0.43 lb.	108 to 160 days	Full sun Depth to plant seeds: ¼ in. Time to germinate: 7 to 21 days Germination temperatures: 80°F to 90°F Start indoors: 8 to 10 weeks before last frost; transplant to spring garden after nighttime temperatures remain above 55°F
POTATOES	Plants: 8 to 12 in. Rows: 24 to 36 in.	1.0 lb.	10 to 15 weeks (from sets)	Full sun Plant potato sets 3 to 5 in. deep 2 weeks before the last frost; plant sets every 2 weeks for an extended harvest; hill growing plants with soil and straw to increase harvest
PUMPKINS	Plants: 3 to 4 ft. Rows: 12 in.	0.5 lb.	90 to 125 days	Full sun Depth to plant seeds: ½ in. Time to germinate: 7 to 10 days Germination temperatures: 70°F to 95°F Start indoors: 2 to 3 weeks before last frost; transplant after all danger of frost
SPINACH	Plants: 3 in. Rows: 18 in.	0.3 lb.	37 to 45 days	Full sun to partial shade Depth to plant seeds: ½ in. Time to germinate: 6 to 10 days Germination temperatures: 45°F to 75°F Direct seed: 4 to 6 weeks before last frost
SUMMER SQUASH AND ZUCCHINI	Plants: 2 to 3 ft. Rows: 3 to 4 ft.	0.75 lb.	45 to 55 days	Full sun Depth to plant seeds: 1 in. Time to germinate: 5 to 10 days Germination temperature: 60°F to 105°F Start indoors: 2 to 3 weeks before last frost; transplant after all danger of frost
SWEET CORN	Plants: 9 to 12 in. Rows: 2 to 3 ft.	0.3 lb.	60 to 100 days	Full sun Depth to plant seeds: 1 to 2 in. Time to germinate: 4 to 7 days Germination temperatures: 65°F to 85°F Direct seed: After all danger of frost
SWISS CHARD	Plants: 6 to 12 in. Rows: 18 to 24 in.	0.34 lb.	55 to 66 days	Full sun to light shade Depth to plant seeds: ½ to 1 in. Time to germinate: 5 to 7 days Germination temperatures: 40°F to 95°F Direct seed: 2 to 3 weeks before last frost
TOMATOES	Plants: 12 to 24 in. Rows: 24 to 36 in.	2.0 lbs.	80 to 110 days	Full sun Depth to plant seeds: ⅛ in. Time to germinate: 6 to 12 days Germination temperatures: 75°F to 90°F Start indoors: 6 to 8 weeks before last frost; transplant after all danger of frost
WINTER SQUASH	Plants: 6 to 12 in. Rows: 4 to 8 ft.	0.4 lb.	80 to 100 days	Full sun Depth to plant seeds: 2 to 3 in. Time to germinate: 5 to 10 days Germination temperatures: 70°F to 95°F Direct seed: After all danger of frost

*Yield per square foot estimates calculated from typical yields per acre from the USDA Vegetables 2018 Summary.

Tips for Beginners: Start out with a small garden and add to it as you learn. Water vegetables and herbs at the base of the plant in the morning to prevent fungal disease. Fertilize leafy greens with nitrogen and flowering and fruiting plants with phosphorus. Root crops don’t usually need a lot of fertilizer. Harvest beans, peas, tomatoes, and other crops often to increase yields.