Hong Kong Island: Central

Sights

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Sports & Activities

Hong Kong Island: Central

Neighbourhood Top Five

1Star Ferry Cruising on the iconic green-and-white ferries, the mid-century vessels that cross Victoria Harbour all day and into the night.

2Skyscrapers Getting personal with skyscrapers you saw in The Dark Knight by checking out buildings like the Bank of China Tower.

3Cantonese Cuisine Enjoying top-notch Cantonese food at Lung King Heen, the world's first Chinese restaurant to snag three Michelin stars.

4IFC Mall Shopping with the wealthy (or watching the wealthy shop) at Central's premier mall, a sleek multistorey shopaholic's paradise at the base of the IFC towers.

5Zoological & Botanical Gardens Taking your morning constitutional and paying the animals a visit at this leafy zoo and public park on the slope of Victoria Peak.

Explore: Central

Whatever time of the day you plan on visiting Hong Kong’s CBD, it’s worth remembering that shops here close relatively early (6pm or 7pm), and that by mid-evening the dust has settled. It’s also advisable to have lunch outside the noon-to-2pm insanity when hordes of hungry suits descend on every table in sight.

Travelling on the MTR, take the Statue Sq exit and spend an hour looking around the Former Legislative Council Building and other memorials to Hong Kong’s past. In the next couple of hours, check out the architecture in the vicinity – glass-and-steel modernity like the HSBC Building and colonial-era survivors like the Gothic St John’s Cathedral.

Head over to the Zoological and Botanical Gardens for some hobnobbing with the rhesus monkeys. Recharged after an hour, make a beeline for the harbour for some retail therapy at the IFC Mall. Take as long as you like, then hop on the Star Ferry to Kowloon.

Local Life

ALil’ Manila Every Sunday, Filipina domestic helpers take over Statue Square and the nearby pavements to eat, sing, chat and read the Bible.

AHang-outs On weekdays at 3pm, well-coiffed ladies of leisure congregate at Sevva for Marie Antoinette’s Crave (it’s a cake).

AShopping World-Wide Plaza is handy for stocking up on affordable toiletries and snacks.

Getting There & Away

AMTR Central station on the Island and Tsuen Wan lines.

AAirport Express Hong Kong station below IFC Mall connects (by underground walkway) with Central MTR station on one side and Central Piers on the other.

AStar Ferry Ferries from Tsim Sha Tsui in Kowloon arrive at Central Pier 7.

ABus Buses start and end their journeys at Central Bus Terminus below Exchange Sq.

ATram Runs east and west along Des Voeux Rd Central.

AOutlying Islands Ferry Ferries to Discovery Bay, Lamma, Cheung Chau, Lantau and Peng Chau run from Central Piers 3 to 6.

ACentral Escalator Runs from the former Central Market to the Mid-Levels.

APeak Tram Runs from the lower terminus (33 Garden Rd) to the Peak.

Lonely Planet's Top Tip

To enjoy Central’s top-notch French and Italian restaurants without breaking the bank, go for the midday specials. Most restaurants offer these for the convenience of business-lunch eaters and frugal foodies. Some may even serve breakfast and/or afternoon tea, weekend lunch buffets or sell gourmet sandwiches at a takeaway station. Remember to book in advance if you’re dining in for lunch.

Best Places to Eat

A Lung King Heen

A Otto e Mezzo Bombana

A Amber

A Tasty Congee & Noodle Wonton Shop

Best Places to Drink

A Sevva

A MO Bar

A Pier 7

Best Places to Shop

A Shanghai Tang

A Armoury

A Lane Crawford

A Picture This

TOP SIGHT

HSBC Building

PETE SEAWARD / LONELY PLANET ©

The stunning HSBC headquarters, designed by British architect Sir Norman Foster in 1985, is a masterpiece of precision, sophistication and innovation. And so it should be. On completion in 1985 it was the world’s most expensive building (costing over US$1 billion). The building reflects the architect’s wish to create areas of public and private space, and to break the mould of previous bank architecture. A lighting scheme fitted later enabled the building to stand out at night.

The two bronze lions guarding the main entrance were designed for the bank’s previous headquarters in 1935; the lions are known as Stephen – the one roaring – and Stitt, after two bank managers from the 1920s. The Japanese used the lions as target practice during the occupation; both bear shrapnel scars. Rub their mighty paws for luck.

The 52-storey glass and aluminium building is full of examples of good feng shui (Chinese geomancy). There’s no structure blocking its view of Victoria Harbour because water is associated with prosperity. The escalators are believed to symbolise the whiskers of a dragon sucking wealth into its belly. They’re built at an angle to the entrance, supposedly to disorient evil spirits, which can only travel in a straight line.

The ground floor is public space, which people can traverse without entering the bank. From there, take the escalator to the 3rd floor to gaze at the cathedral-like atrium and the natural light filtering through its windows.

Don't Miss

ALighting scheme at night

AStephen and Stitt

AFeng shui features

AThe atrium

Practicalities

A滙豐銀行總行大廈

A MAP GOOGLE MAP

Awww.hsbc.com.hk/1/2/about/home/unique-headquarters

A1 Queen’s Rd, Central

Ahescalator 9am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-12.30pm Sat

AmCentral, exit K

TOP SIGHT

Star Ferry

JORG HACKEMANN / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

You can’t say you’ve ‘done’ Hong Kong until you’ve taken a ride on a Star Ferry, that legendary fleet of electric-diesel vessels with names like Morning Star and Twinkling Star. At any time of the day the ride, with its riveting views of skyscrapers and soaring mountains, is one of the world’s best-value cruises. At the end of the 10-minute journey, watch as a crew member casts a hemp rope to his colleague who catches it with a billhook, the way it was done in 1880 when the first boat docked.

The Star Ferry was a witness to major events in Hong Kong history, including on Christmas Day 1941, when the colonial governor, Sir Mark Aitchison Young, took the ferry to Tsim Sha Tsui, where he surrendered to the Japanese at the Peninsula.

Take your first trip on a clear night from Tsim Sha Tsui to Central. It’s less dramatic in the opposite direction. That said, you can turn to face the rear and bid adieu to the glorious view as it slips away from you. If you don’t mind the noise and diesel fumes, the lower deck (only open on the Tsim Sha Tsui–Central route) is better for pictures.

The pier you see on Hong Kong Island is an uninspiring Edwardian replica that replaced the old pier (late art-deco style with a clock tower) at Edinburgh Pl that was demolished despite vehement opposition from Hong Kong people. The Kowloon pier remains untouched.

The Star Ferry operates on two routes – Tsim Sha Tsui–Central and Tsim Sha Tsui–Wan Chai. The first is more popular. The coin-operated turnstiles do not give change but you can get it from the ticket window.

Don't Miss

AThe views

AKowloon pier

AThe hemp rope and billhook routine

Practicalities

A天星小輪

A MAP GOOGLE MAP

A%852 2367 7065

Awww.starferry.com.hk

Aadult HK$2.50-3.40, child HK$1.50-2.10

Ahevery 6-12min, 6.30am-11.30pm

AmHong Kong, exit A2

1Sights

Star Ferry HSBC Building

oPeak TramFUNICULAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2522 0922; www.thepeak.com.hk; Lower Terminus, 33 Garden Rd, Central; one way/return adult HK$28/40, child 3-11yr & seniors over 65yr HK$11/18; h7am-midnight; mCentral, exit J2)

The Peak Tram is not really a tram but a cable-hauled funicular railway that has been scaling the 396m ascent to the highest point on Hong Kong Island since 1888. A ride on the tram is a classic Hong Kong experience, with vertiginous views over the city as you ascend up the steep mountainside.

The Peak Tram runs every 10 to 15 minutes from 7am to midnight. Octopus cards can be used. On clear days, expect long lines.

oHong Kong Maritime MuseumMUSEUM

(香港海事博物館 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 3713 2500; www.hkmaritimemuseum.org; Central Ferry Pier 8, Central; adult/child & senior HK$30/15; h9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-7pm Sat & Sun; c; mHong Kong, exit A2)

Relocation and expansion have turned this into one of the city’s strongest museums, with 15 well-curated galleries detailing over 2000 years of Chinese maritime history and the development of the Port of Hong Kong. Exhibits include ceramics from China’s ancient sea trade, shipwreck treasures and old nautical instruments. A painted scroll depicting piracy in China in the early 19th century is one of Hong Kong's most important historical artefacts, and, like the rest of the museum, a real eye-opener.

The museum is located, as it should be, right next to Victoria Harbour. After leaving the MTR, walk towards the pier along Man Yiu St.

oSt John’s CathedralCHURCH

(聖約翰座堂 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2523 4157; www.stjohnscathedral.org.hk; 4-8 Garden Rd, Central; h7am-6pm; g12A, 40, 40M, mCentral, exit K)F

Services have been held at this Anglican cathedral since it opened in 1849, with the exception of 1944, when the Japanese army used it as a social club. It suffered heavy damage during WWII, and the front doors were subsequently remade using timber salvaged from HMS Tamar, a British warship that guarded Victoria Harbour. You walk on sacred ground in more ways than one here: it is the only piece of freehold land in Hong Kong. Enter from Battery Path.

Note the stained-glass windows, which show scenes of vernacular Hong Kong life, such as a fisherwoman holding a net. Note also the tattered regimental flags hanging from the ceiling; these were buried during WWII to hide them from the Japanese. Outside you'll see the grave of RD Maxwell, a British soldier killed during the Battle of Hong Kong and buried in the nearest convenient spot.

Hong Kong Zoological & Botanical GardensPARK

(香港動植物公園 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.lcsd.gov.hk/parks; Albany Rd, Central; hterrace gardens 5am-10pm, greenhouse 9am-4.30pm; c; g3B, 12)F

This Victorian-era garden has a welcoming collection of fountains, sculptures and greenhouses, plus a zoo and some fabulous aviaries. Some 160 species of bird reside here. The zoo has a large collection of monkeys, sloths, lemurs and orangutans, and is also one of the world’s leading centres for the captive breeding of endangered species. Albany Rd divides the gardens, with the plants and aviaries to the east, close to Garden Rd, and most of the animals to the west.

Former Legislative Council BuildingHISTORIC BUILDING

(前立法會大樓 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 8 Jackson Rd, Central; mCentral, exit G)

The colonnaded and domed building (c 1912) was built of granite quarried on Stonecutters Island, and served as the seat of the Legislative Council from 1985 to 2012. During WWII it was a headquarters of the Gendarmerie, the Japanese version of the Gestapo, and many people were executed here. Standing atop the pediment is a blindfolded statue of Themis, the Greek goddess of justice and natural law.

Bank of China TowerNOTABLE BUILDING

(中銀大廈; BOC Tower MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1 Garden Rd, Central; mCentral, exit K)

The awesome 70-storey Bank of China Tower, designed by IM Pei, rises from the ground like a cube, and is then successively reduced, quarter by quarter, until the south-facing side is left to rise on its own. Some geomancers believe the four prisms are negative symbols; being the opposite of circles, these triangles contradict what circles suggest – money, union and perfection.

The lobby of the BOC Tower features the Prehistoric Story Room (open 9am to 6pm, closed Tuesday), a small exhibition depicting Earth's life history through fossil displays.

Old Bank of China BuildingNOTABLE BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1 Bank St, Central; mCentral, exit K)

Constructed in 1950, the old Bank of China building now houses the bank’s Central branch and, on its top floors, the exclusive China Club, which evokes the atmosphere of old Shanghai. The BOC is now headquartered in the awesome Bank of China Tower to the southeast, designed by Chinese-born American architect IM Pei and completed in 1990.

Two International Finance CentreNOTABLE BUILDING

(國際金融中心; Two IFC MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 8 Finance St, Central; mHong Kong, exit A2 or F)

A pearl-coloured colossus resembling an electric shaver, this is the tallest building on Hong Kong Island. You can't get to the top, but you can get pretty high by visiting the Hong Kong Monetary Authority Information Centre. The building sits atop IFC Mall, which stretches to the lower levels of its sister building, the much-shorter One IFC (國際金融中心; One IFC MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1 Harbour View St, Central; mHong Kong, exit A2 or F).

Government HouseHISTORIC BUILDING

(禮賓府 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2530 2003; www.ceo.gov.hk/gh; Upper Albert Rd, Central; mCentral, exit G)

Parts of this erstwhile official residence of the chief executive of Hong Kong, and previously the colonial governors, date back to 1855. Other features were added by the Japanese, who used it as military headquarters during the occupation of Hong Kong in WWII. It’s open to the public three or four times a year, notably one Sunday in March when the azaleas in the gardens are in full bloom.

Statue SquareSQUARE

(皇后像廣場 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Edinburgh Pl, Central; mCentral, exit K)

This leisurely square used to house effigies of British royalty. Now it pays tribute to a single sovereign – the founder of HSBC. In the northern area (reached via an underpass) is the Cenotaph, built in 1923 as a memorial to Hong Kong residents killed during the two world wars. On the south side of Chater Rd, Statue Sq has a pleasant collection of fountains and seating areas, with tiling that's strangely reminiscent of a 1980s municipal washroom.

To the east a building resembling a swimming stingray houses a prestigious club that didn't accept Chinese members until well after WWII.

CenotaphMONUMENT

(和平紀念碑 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Chater Rd; mCentral, exit A)

This stone monument was originally built to honour Hong Kong's WWI dead, and later modified to honour victims of WWII.

Hong Kong Observation WheelFERRIS WHEEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.hkow.hk/en/; Hong Kong Central Piers; adult/child HK$100/70; h10am-11pm; c; mCentral exit A)

In the perpetually under-construction waterfront area near Central Piers, this 60m enclosed Ferris wheel is hardly the highest spot in Hong Kong, but is still fun for a cheerful spin, with views over the water and Kowloon.

Exchange SquareSQUARE

(交易廣場 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 8 Connaught Pl, Central; mCentral, exit A)

This complex of office towers houses the Hong Kong Stock Exchange and the offices of global financial corporations. The main draw is the attractive and relatively peaceful open-air space, featuring fountains, and sculptures by Henry Moore and Ju Ming. Access is via a network of overhead walkways stretching west to Sheung Wan and linked to buildings on the other side of Connaught Rd.

Helena MayHISTORIC BUILDING

(梅夫人婦女會主樓 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2522 6766; www.helenamay.com; 35 Garden Rd, Central; g23)

The Helena May was opened in 1916 by the wife of a governor as a social club for working, single European women, for whom the colony had little to offer by way of ‘respectable’ entertainment like ballet lessons and tea parties. The colonial building, with features of the Palladian and beaux-arts styles, was used to stable horses during the Japanese Occupation.

Currently a private club and hostel, it runs 20-minute tours in English and Chinese one Saturday a month (10am to noon; see the website for dates). Reservations are compulsory and accepted a month in advance.

Former French Mission BuildingHISTORIC BUILDING

(前法國外方傳道會大樓 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1 Battery Path, Central; mCentral, exit K)

This handsome red brick building was built in the mid-1800s and renovated to its current Edwardian glory in 1917 by the French Society of Foreign Missions. Until 2015 it was home to Hong Kong's Court of Final Appeal. It's now awaiting repurposing.

World-Wide PlazaNOTABLE BUILDING

(環球商場 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 19 Des Voeux Rd, Central; mCentral, exit G)

A slice of Manila in Hong Kong's financial heart, the rabbit warren of tiny shops in this '80s-style shopping arcade caters to the needs of the Filipina domestic helpers working in Hong Kong, who, on Sundays, like to congregate in the streets around this area. Products for sale include food, toiletries and phone cards.

Jardine HouseNOTABLE BUILDING

(怡和大廈 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1 Connaught Pl, Central; mHong Kong, exit B2)

This 52-storey silver monolith punctured by 1750 porthole-like windows was Hong Kong’s first true ‘skyscraper’ when it opened in 1973. Inevitably the building has earned its own irreverent nickname: the ‘House of 1000 Arseholes’.

Hong Kong City HallNOTABLE BUILDING

(香港大會堂 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.cityhall.gov.hk; 5 Edinburgh Pl, Central; h9am-11pm; mCentral, exit K)

The City Hall, built in classic Bauhaus style in 1962, was Hong Kong's first large-scale civic centre. It remains a major cultural venue today, with concert and recital halls, a theatre and exhibition galleries. Within the Lower Block, entered to the east of City Hall’s main entrance, the City Gallery (open 10am to 6pm) may awaken the Meccano builder in more than a few visitors.

2Neighbourhood Walk
Exploring Hong Kong's Heart

Start Statue Sq

End Central MTR Station

Length 1.5km, 45 minutes

Begin the walk at 1Statue Square and take in the handsome outline of the neoclassical 2Former Legislative Council Building, one of the few colonial-era survivors in the area and the former seat of Hong Kong’s modern legislature.

Walk southwest through Chater Garden park and cross over Garden Rd to the angular, modern lines of the 3Bank of China Tower, which has amazing views from the 43rd floor.

Duck into Hong Kong Park for the free 4Flagstaff House Museum of Tea Ware, displaying valuable pots, cups and other elegant tea ware. Sample some of China's finest teas in the serene cafe.

From here take elevated walkways west over Cotton Tree Dr, through Citibank Plaza, over Garden Rd and through Cheung Kong Garden to 5St John's Cathedral, dating from 1849. It is a modest building to earn the title of cathedral, especially with the towering corporate cathedrals now surrounding it, but it is an important historic Hong Kong monument all the same.

Follow Battery Path past the 6Former French Mission Building to Ice House St. Cross over and walk right (east) along Queen's Rd Central to the 7HSBC building and up the escalator (if it's open) to the large airy atrium. Walk through the ground-floor plaza to pat Stephen and Stitt, the two lions guarding the exit to Des Voeux Rd Central. The closest Central MTR station entrance is a short distance to the north along the pedestrian walkway between Statue Sq and Prince's Building.

5Eating

oTim Ho Wan, the Dim Sum SpecialistsDIM SUM$

(添好運點心專門店 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2332 3078; www.timhowan.com; Shop 12a, Podium Level 1, 8 Finance St, IFC Mall, Central; dishes HK$50; h9am-8.30pm; mHong Kong, exit E1)

Opened by a former Four Seasons chef, Tim Ho Wan was the first-ever budget dim sum place to receive a Michelin star. Many relocations and branches later, the star is still tucked snugly inside its tasty titbits, including the top-selling baked barbecue pork bun. Expect to wait 15 to 40 minutes for a table.

City Hall Maxim’s PalaceDIM SUM$

(美心皇宮 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2521 1303; 3rd fl, Lower Block, Hong Kong City Hall, 1 Edinburgh Pl, Central; meals from HK$150; h11am-3pm Mon-Sat, 9am-3pm Sun; Wc; mCentral, exit K)

This 'palace' offers the quintessential Hong Kong dim sum experience. It's cheerful, it's noisy and it takes place in a huge kitschy hall with dragon decorations and hundreds of locals. A dizzying assortment of dim sum is paraded on trolleys the old-fashioned way. There’s breakfast on Sunday from 9am, but people start queuing for a table at 8.30am.

A seat by the window will let you see the harbour or, a more common sight, land reclamation in progress.

Lin Heung Tea HouseCANTONESE, DIM SUM$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2544 4556; 160-164 Wellington St, Central; meals from HK$100; h6am-11pm, dim sum to 3.30pm; mSheung Wan, exit E2)

In the morning, this famous tea house is packed, just as it was in 1926, with older men reading newspapers. Dim sum (from HK$12), served from trolleys, is quickly snapped up, so hover near the kitchen if you want more choices.

The big bun and liver siu mai are coveted items, prized more for their nostalgic value than their taste. But the lotus-root patties and the braised stuffed duck (HK$150, advance booking required) live up to their reputation.

Tasty Congee & Noodle Wonton ShopNOODLES$

(正斗粥麵專家 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2295 0101; Shop 3016, Podium Level 3, 8 Finance St, IFC Mall, Central; dishes HK$90-200; h11am-10.45pm; mHong Kong, exit E1)

This clean and affordable eatery in the ultra-posh IFC Mall has a long line at lunchtime. So learn from the ladies of leisure – shop first, eat later. Delayed gratification also means you'll be able to sample more of the Michelin-crowned deliciousness – shrimp wontons, prawn congee, stir-fried flat noodles with beef…

Pierre HerméBAKERY$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.pierreherme.com; Shop 1019c, Level 1, 8 Finance St, IFC Mall, Central; boxes of macarons from HK$210; h10am-9pm; mHong Kong Station, exit A1 or A2)

Hong Kongers are in the midst of a love affair with macarons, so when this legendary French patissier opened in IFC Mall there were lines for days. Stop in to pick up a box of these jewel-like treats, in flavours ranging from the classic (chocolate, pistachio, raspberry) to the avant garde (olive, foie gras, white truffle).

Sing KeeSTREET FOOD$

(盛記 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2541 5678; 9-10 Stanley St, Soho; meals HK$200; h11am-3pm & 6-11pm; c; mCentral, exit D2)

In the fine-dining enclave of Soho, finding a good and cheap meal can be tricky. Sing Kee, one of the few surviving dai pai dong (food stalls) in the area, has withstood the tide of gentrification, and still retains a working-class, laugh-out-loud character. There’s no signage. Look for the crammed tables at the end of Stanley St.

Go-tos here include Hong Kong classics like garlic prawns, fried noodles and sweet-and-sour pork.

Yue HingSTREET FOOD$

(裕興 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 76-78 Stanley St, Soho; meals HK$25-40; h8.15am-2pm; mCentral, exit D2)

One of a gang of dai pai dong (food stalls) earmarked for preservation, easygoing Yue Hing reinvents the Hong Kong sandwich by topping the usual suspects (ham, spam and egg) with peanut butter and cooked cabbage. And it works! Allow 15 minutes for preparation as these wacky wedges are made to order.

Oliver’s, the DelicatessenSUPERMARKET$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2810 7710; www.oliversthedeli.com.hk; 201-205, Prince’s Bldg, 10 Chater Rd, Central; meals HK$80-150; h8am-9pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-8pm Sat & Sun; mCentral)

The grab-and-go gourmet salads and sandwiches at this high-end international grocery store are popular with Central workers looking for a desk meal. A great place to stock up on picnic supplies.

Lei GardenCANTONESE, DIM SUM$$

(利苑酒家 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2295 0238; www.leigarden.hk/en/; Shop 3007-3011, Level 3, 8 Finance St, IFC Mall, Central; meals HK$180-900; h11.30am-3pm & 6-11pm; Wc; mHong Kong, exit E1)

Military-like control of food quality has earned a number of the 24 Lei Garden outlets, including this one, a Michelin star, but this branch at the IFC Mall has the most contemporary environment and the most professional staff. Signature dishes include roast meats, dim sum and the award-winning dessert – sweet sago soup with mango and pomelo. Booking essential.

Island TangCANTONESE, DIM SUM$$

(港島廳 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2526 8798; www.islandtang.com; Shop 222, 9 Queen’s Rd Central, Galleria, Central; set lunch from HK$308, dinner from HK$400; hnoon-2.30pm & 6-10.30pm; W; mCentral, exit D1)

Island Tang can easily be a place where, as the Chinese say, one goes to ‘devour the decor’ – the 1930s art deco interior is sheer elegance. But admirably, the restaurant has kept its culinary standards extremely high. The exquisite selections range from Cantonese home-cooking to banquet-style seafood dishes, which means a meal can set you back HK$300 or HK$3000.

HeichinrouCANTONESE$$

(聘珍樓 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2868 9229; www.heichinrou.com; G05 & 107-108, Nexxus Bldg, 41 Connaught Rd, Central; lunch/dinner from HK$200/350; h10.30am-midnight; Wc; mCentral, exit C)

It’s everything you’d expect from a modern Cantonese restaurant of this calibre in Hong Kong – polished service, a somewhat formal ambience, refined cooking and good tea. This makes its self-touting as the ‘oldest Chinese restaurant in Japan’ a little baffling. The afternoon tea set with four kinds of dim sum, snack, staple and dessert for HK$128 is a steal.

WatermarkEUROPEAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2167 7251; www.cafedecogroup.com; Shop L, Level P, Central Pier 7, Star Ferry Pier, Central; lunch & brunch from HK$400, dinner HK$600; hnoon-2.30pm & 6pm-late Mon-Fri, 11.30am-3pm & 6pm-late Sat & Sun; Wc; mHong Kong, exit A2)

With its location on the Star Ferry Pier, Watermark commands panoramic views of Victoria Harbour. It’s airy during the day and romantic at night, and you can feel the sway of the waves at some of the tables. Dry-aged rib-eye and seafood are the highlights of its solid European menu. Weekend brunch is a big draw.

oLung King HeenCANTONESE, DIM SUM$$$

(龍景軒 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 3196 8888; www.fourseasons.com/hongkong; Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance St, Central; lunch HK$200-500, dinner HK$500-2000; hnoon-2.30pm & 6-10.30pm; W; mHong Kong, exit E1)

The world’s first Chinese restaurant to receive three Michelin stars still retains them. The Cantonese food, though by no means peerless in Hong Kong, is excellent in both taste and presentation, and when combined with the harbour views and the impeccable service, provides a truly stellar dining experience. The signature steamed lobster and scallop dumplings sell out early.

oCapriceMODERN FRENCH$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 3196 8888; www.fourseasons.com/hongkong; Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance St, Central; set lunch/dinner from HK$540/1740; hnoon-2.30pm & 6-10.30pm; W; mHong Kong, exit E1)

In contrast to its opulent decor, Caprice, with two Michelin stars, has a straightforward menu. The meals are masterfully crafted from ingredients flown in daily from France. The selections change, but experience says anything with duck, langoustine or pork belly is out of this world. Their artisanal cheeses, imported weekly, are the best you can get in Hong Kong.

AmberMODERN EUROPEAN$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2132 0066; www.mandarinoriental.com/landmark; Mandarin Oriental, 15 Queen’s Rd, Central; set lunch HK$598-1288, set dinner HK$2068; hnoon-2.30pm & 6.30-10.30pm; mCentral, exit G)

With dusk-like lighting and 3000 hanging 'organ pipes', it feels a tad formal, but once you’ve sampled Chef Ekkebus's masterful modern takes on traditional French dishes, you'll warm to this two Michelin–star restaurant. Changing menus never fail to surprise and delight – think Hokkaido sea urchin with lobster jelly and seaweed waffles or duck foie gras with daikon radish fondant.

L’Atelier de Joël RobuchonMODERN FRENCH$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2166 9000; www.robuchon.hk; Shop 401, 15 Queen’s Rd Central, Landmark, Central; set lunch HK$598-858, set dinner HK$2080, à la carte mains HK$440-1000; hnoon-2.30pm & 6.30-10.30pm; W; mCentral, exit G)

One-third of celebrity chef Joel de Robuchon’s Michelin-crowned wonder in Hong Kong, this red-and-black workshop has a tantalising list of tapas (from HK$350) and a 70-page wine list. If you prefer something more formal, visit Le Jardin in the next room. Le Salon de The, one floor down, has the best sandwiches and pastries in town for dine-in or takeaway.

Otto e Mezzo BombanaITALIAN$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2537 8859; www.ottoemezzobombana.com; Shop 202, 18 Chater Rd, Landmark Alexandra, Central; lunch/dinner from HK$700/1380; hnoon-2.30pm & 6.30-10.30pm Mon-Sat; W; mCentral, exit H)

Asia’s only Italian restaurant with three Michelin stars lives up to its name, and Chef Bombana is here, sleeves rolled, to see that it does. 'Eight and a Half' is the place for white truffles, being the host of the local bidding for these pungent diamonds. To eat here though you’ll need the tenacity of a truffle hound – book two months ahead.

Duddell'sCANTONESE$$$

(都爹利會館 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2525 9191; www.duddells.co; Level 3 & 4 Shanghai Tang Mansion, 1 Duddell St, Central; lunch HK$500-800, dinner HK$800-1600; hnoon-2.30pm & 6-10.30pm Mon-Sat; W; mCentral, exit G)

Light Cantonese fare is served in riveting spaces enhanced by artwork – a graceful dining room awash in diffused light; a marble-tiled salon in modernised '50s chic; a leafy terrace. Saturday brunch (HK$680; noon to 3.30pm) with free-flowing champagne and all-you-can-eat dim sum is a welcome treat, especially given the usually petite serving portions.

Duddell’s is also an art gallery holding regular exhibitions and talks.

InagikuJAPANESE$$$

(稻菊日本餐廳 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2805 0600; www.fourseasons.com/hongkong; Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance St, Central; lunch/dinner from HK$600/900; h11.30am-3pm & 6-11pm; mCentral, exit A)

Inagiku, meaning 'rice chrysanthemum', is perfection. It's a formal place with subtle interiors and stunning views of the harbour, and attention is lavished on every dish. You can choose to sit at one of the sushi, teppanyaki or tempura bars and watch the chefs work their magic, or bask in the romantic privacy of a table.

If money is not an issue, order the kaiseki, a multicourse meal comprising seasonal ingredients from Japan that are prepared with finesse and plated like art.

PierreMODERN FRENCH$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2825 4001; www.mandarinoriental.com/hongkong; Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd, Central; set lunch HK$498-598, set dinner HK$998-1598; hnoon-2.30pm Mon-Fri, 6.30-10.30pm Mon-Sat; W; mCentral, exit F)

The godfather of fusion, Pierre Gagnaire, has created a provocative menu in the city that embodies the concept. Amuse-bouche might be a marshmallow sprinkled with shrimp powder, dessert a caramelised rocket salad – and it works. The decor, with portholes and chandeliers, is reminiscent of a cruise liner, especially when adding the harbour view. Pierre has two Michelin stars.

6Drinking & Nightlife

MO BarBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2132 0077; 15 Queen’s Rd Central, Landmark, Central; h7am-1.30am; W; mCentral, exit D1)

If you want to imbibe in the quiet or catch up with a chat, the swish MO Bar, attached to the Mandarin's swanky outpost at the Landmark, offers peace, soft lighting and a first-rate drinks list of wines and cocktails.

Good Spring CoDRINKS

(春回堂 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2544 3518; 8 Cochrane St, Soho; tea HK$7-30; h8.45am-8pm; mCentral, exit D2)

This Chinese medicine shop has a counter selling herbal teas – for detoxing, getting rid of water, cooling the body or treating colds. The most popular is the bitter 24-herb tea. There's also the fragrant chrysanthemum infusion. If you like, the English-speaking herbalist will take your pulse and prescribe a (black and bitter) medicinal soup.

SevvaCOCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2537 1388; www.sevva.hk; 25th fl, Prince’s Bldg, 10 Chater Rd, Central; hnoon-midnight Mon-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; W; mCentral, exit H)

If there was a million-dollar view in Hong Kong, it’d be the one from the balcony of ultra-stylish Sevva – skyscrapers so close you can see their arteries of steel, with the harbour and Kowloon in the distance. At night it takes your breath away. To get there, though, you have to overcome expensive drinks and patchy service.

Book ahead if you want a table on the balcony, but even if you don’t, you can go out to take pictures.

Red BarBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 8129 8882; www.pure-red.com; Level 4, 8 Finance St, Two IFC, Central; hnoon-midnight Mon-Wed, to 1am Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat, to 10pm Sun, happy hour 6-9pm; W; mHong Kong, exit E1)

Red Bar’s combination of alfresco drinking and harbour views is hard to beat. Expect to meet lots of smartly dressed finance types from the corporate offices nearby. DJs playing funk and jazz turn up the volume as the weekend approaches.

Hint: if you're on a budget, grab some beers at a 7-Eleven and take one of the rooftop tables adjacent to Red; it's public space.

Beer BayBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Hong Kong Central Ferry Pier 3, Central; h3pm-midnight; mHong Kong, exit A1 or A2)

Still wearing your sightseeing grubbies and don't feel up to the glam nightspots of Central? Head to this ultra-local open-air beer bar at the ferry pier, a favourite of outer island–dwellers looking for a quick tipple before heading home. Grab one of Beer Bay's affordable British imports and sit on the concrete steps watching the water.

Captain’s BarBAR

(船長吧 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2825 4006; www.mandarinoriental.com.hk; Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd Central, Central; h11am-2am Mon-Sat, to 1am Sun; W; mCentral, exit F)

Captain's Bar has been attracting drinkers with its clubby atmosphere and polished service for half a century. Though looking slightly old-fashioned now, it still makes some of the best martinis in town and serves ice-cold draught beer in chilled silver mugs. It's a good place to talk business, at least until the cover band strikes up at 9pm.

Pier 7BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2167 8377; www.cafedecogroup.com; Shop M, Roof Viewing Deck, Central Pier 7, Star Ferry Pier, Central; h9am-midnight, happy hour 6-9pm; W; mHong Kong, exit A1)

Sitting atop the Star Ferry terminal, Pier 7 has a large outdoor terrace with views of neighbouring skyscrapers, the hills of Kowloon and a sliver of the harbour. It’s an unpretentious spot for a quiet pre-movie (or post-dinner) drink and some light refreshments. On random weekends there are reggae DJs in the house and the vibe turns shaggy.

3Entertainment

Grappa’s CellarLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2521 2322; http://elgrande.com.hk/restaurant/grappas-cellar/; 1 Connaught Pl, Central; h9pm-late; mHong Kong, exit B2)

For at least two weekends a month, this subterranean Italian restaurant morphs into a jazz or rock music venue – chequered tablecloths and all. Call or visit the website for event and ticketing details.

Senses 99LIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 9466 2675; www.sense99.com; 2nd & 3rd fl, 99 Wellington St, Soho; h9pm-late Fri & Sat; mSheung Wan, exit E2)

This two-floor speakeasy inside a pre-WWII building has all the features of a tasteful mid-century residence – high ceilings, balconies overlooking a quiet street, folding screen doors and distressed couches. Music sessions begin after 10pm, but before that you can take charge of the drum set and electric guitar on the 3rd floor to start a jam session or join one.

Palace IFCCINEMA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2388 6268; Podium Level 1, 8 Finance St, IFC Mall, Central; mHong Kong, exit F)

This eight-screen cinema complex in the IFC Mall is arguably the most advanced and comfortable in the territory. But you can’t pull up the armrests if you’re seated in the back row.

7Shopping

oShanghai TangCLOTHING, HOMEWARE

(上海灘 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2525 7333; www.shanghaitang.com; 1 Duddell St, Shanghai Tang Mansion, Central; h10.30am-8pm; mCentral, exit D1)

This elegant four-level store is the place to go if you fancy a body-hugging qípáo (cheongsam) with a modern twist, a Chinese-style clutch or a lime-green mandarin jacket. Custom tailoring is available; it takes two weeks to a month and requires a fitting. Shanghai Tang also stocks cushions, picture frames, teapots, even mah-jong tile sets, designed in a modern chinoiserie style.

oLane CrawfordDEPARTMENT STORE

(連卡佛 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2118 3388; www.lanecrawford.com; Podium Level 3, 8 Finance St, IFC Mall, Central; h10am-9pm; mCentral, exit A)

The territory’s answer to London's Harrods, Lane Crawford (c 1850) was Hong Kong's original Western-style department store, and one that, admirably, has succeeded in rejuvenating itself while remaining classy over the decades. This flagship store sells everything from fashion to crockery. There are four other branches in town.

oKowloon Soy CompanyFOOD & DRINKS

(九龍醬園 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2544 3695; www.kowloonsoy.com; 9 Graham St, Soho; h8am-6.15pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat; mCentral, exit D1)

The shop (c 1917) for artisanal soy sauce, premier cru Chinese miso and other high-quality condiments; it also sells preserved eggs (pei darn, 皮蛋) and pickled ginger (suen geung, 酸姜） which are often served together at restaurants. Did you know that preserved eggs, being alkaline, can make young red wines taste fuller-bodied? Just try it.

oPicture ThisGIFTS & SOUVENIRS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2525 2803; www.picturethiscollection.com; 13th fl, 9 Queen's Rd, Central; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun; mCentral, exit H)

The vintage posters, photographs, prints and antique maps of Hong Kong and Asia on sale here will appeal to collectors or anyone seeking an unusual gift. There’s also an assortment of antiquarian books related to Hong Kong. Prices are not cheap but they guarantee all maps and prints to be originals.

oArmouryCLOTHING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2804 6991; www.thearmoury.com; 307 Pedder Bldg, 12 Pedder St, Central; h11am-8pm Mon-Sat; mCentral, exit D1)

The Armoury can help any man look like a dapper gentleman, whatever his build – the elegant shop is a specialist in refined menswear sourced from around the world. You can choose from British-, Italian- and Asian-tailored suits, and a high-quality selection of shoes and ties to match. Still not good enough? Ask about their bespoke suits and custom footwear.

oBlanc de ChineFASHION & ACCESSORIES

(源 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2104 7934; www.blancdechine.com; Shop 123, Prince’s Bldg, 10 Chater Rd, Central; h10.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat, noon-6pm Sun; mCentral, exit H)

This sumptuous store specialises in Chinese men’s jackets and silk dresses for women, both off-the-rack and made-to-measure. A gorgeous sequinned gown takes about four weeks to make, including one fitting. If you’re not in Hong Kong after a month, the shop will ship it to you.

The satin bed linens are also exquisite (as are the old ship’s cabinets in which they are displayed).

IFC MallMALL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2295 3308; www.ifc.com.hk; 8 Finance St, Central; mHong Kong, exit F)

Hong Kong’s most luxurious shopping mall boasts 200 high-fashion boutiques linking the One and Two IFC towers and the Four Seasons Hotel. Outlets include Prada, Gucci, Céline, Jimmy Choo, Vivienne Tam, Zegna…we could go on. The Hong Kong Airport Express Station is downstairs.

Fook Ming Tong Tea ShopFOOD & DRINKS

(福茗堂 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2295 0368; www.fookmingtong.com; Shop 3006, Podium Level 3, 8 Finance St, IFC Mall, Central; h10.30am- 8pm Mon-Sat, 11am-8pm Sun; mCentral, exit A)

Tea-making accoutrements and carefully chosen teas of various ages and grades are available here, from gunpowder to Nanyan Ti Guan Yin Crown Grade – costing anything from HK$10 to HK$9000 per 100g.

City'superFOOD & DRINKS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.citysuper.com.hk; Shop 1041-1049, Level 1, 8 Finance St, IFC Mall, Central; h10.30am-9.30pm; mHong Kong, exit F)

This gourmet grocery store sells a range of top-notch hard-to-find ingredients from all over the world, as well as natural and organic foods. The prices, of course, are high.

LandmarkMALL

(置地廣場 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2525 4142; www.centralhk.com; 1 Pedder St, Central; mCentral, exit G)

The most central of all shopping centres, the Landmark has high fashion and good eating in a pleasant, open space. It has become a home almost exclusively to the very high-end fashion brands and boutiques (Gucci, Louis Vuitton, TODs etc).

2Sports & Activities

Ten Feet TallMASSAGE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2971 1010; www.tenfeettall.com.hk; 20th & 21st fl, L Place, 139 Queen’s Rd, Central; h11am-midnight Mon-Thu, 10.30am-1.30am Fri & Sat, 10.30am-12.30am Sun; mCentral, exit D2)

This sprawling comfort den (745 sq metres) offers a range of treatments from foot reflexology and shoulder massage to hardcore pressure-point massage and aromatic oil treatments. The interiors were created by French restaurant designers.

Spa at the Four SeasonsSPA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 3196 8900; www.fourseasons.com/hongkong/spa.html; Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance St, Central; h8am-11pm (last appointment 10pm); mHong Kong, exit F)

A 1860-sq-metre, ultra-high-end spa with a comprehensive range of beauty, massage and health treatments, plus ice fountain, hot cups, moxibustion and even a ‘herbal cocoon room’.

Impakt Martial Arts & Fitness CentreMARTIAL ARTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2167 7218; www.impakt.hk; 110-116 Queen’s Rd Central, 2nd fl, Wings Bldg, Central; h7am-10pm Mon-Fri, 8am-7pm Sat, 10am-5pm Sun; mCentral, exit D2)

Impakt is one of the few martial arts centres with female trainers. They teach muay Thai, kickboxing, jiu jitsu, karate etc to GI Jane wannabes and experienced fighters alike. You can walk in for a one-off class or to use the gym facilities for HK$250. You can book personal private training for upwards of HK$325 per person per hour.

Pure FitnessGYM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 8129 8000; www.pure-fitness.com; Level 3, 8 Finance St, IFC Mall, Central; h6am-midnight Mon-Sat, 8am-10pm Sun; mHong Kong, exit F)

A sleek urban gym offering comprehensive facilities and classes for cardio-strength training, cycling, kickboxing, yoga, Pilates and dance fitness. It’s a favourite among the professionals working in the area. In addition to this location, there are seven others throughout the city. Pure offers short-term contracts, ideal for travellers on a longer stay or those who pop in and out of Hong Kong.