New Territories

Tsuen Wan

Has some of Hong Kong’s most important Buddhist and Taoist monasteries.

Tuen Mun

Visit at leisure the temples and monasteries that dot the landscape.

Yuen Long

Hong Kong Wetland Park, laid-back Pak Nai and old walled villages.

Fanling & Sheung Shui

A heaven for history buffs, with fortified villages and historic ruins.

Tai Po

Lively markets and temples, plus an encyclopaedia of flora and fauna.

Plover Cove

Plover Cove is where you go to hike, hike, hike or bike, bike, bike!

Sha Tin

A New Town with a historical feel, temples and a heritage museum.

Sai Kung Peninsula

Beautiful beaches and deserted coves, and half of Hong Kong Global Geopark.

Clearwater Bay Peninsula

The name says it all – beaches with crystal-clear water.

TOP SIGHT

Ping Shan Heritage Trail

MARY416 / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

This meandering 1km trail through three old but lively villages in northwestern New Territories features 12 thoughtfully restored historic buildings and a museum at Ping Shan dedicated to the powerful Tang clan, the founders of the spectacular 500-year-old Ping Shan village. The Tangs are believed to be some of the Hong Kong's earliest immigrants.

Start with the Ping Shan Tang Clan Gallery at the eastern end of the trail. Housed in a former police station, the gallery showcases the history of the Tangs. The colourful collections include a traditional sedan chair, ritual wares and a giant wooden bed. The building itself was constructed in 1899 and was a colonial outpost to monitor ‘untoward’ villagers.

Leaving the Tang Clan Gallery, retrace your steps to Ping Ha Rd and turn right. The small Hung Shing Temple is on your right-hand side, followed by Ching Shu Hin Chamber and Kun Ting Study Hall when you turn right again.

North of Hung Shing Temple, Shu Hin Chamber and Kun Ting Study Hall are the Tang Clan Ancestral Hall and Yu Kiu Ancestral Hall, two of Hong Kong's largest ancestral halls. The Tangs justifiably brag about them, especially the one that bears their name, as it follows a three-halls-two-courtyards structure indicative of the clan’s prestigious status in the imperial court.

There are some more temples and an old well ahead. At the end of the heritage trail is small, three-storey Tsui Sing Lau Pagoda (聚星樓 GOOGLE MAP ; Ping Ha Rd, Ping Shan Heritage Trail; h9am-1pm, 2-5pm Wed-Sun; dTin Shui Wai), the only surviving ancient pagoda in Hong Kong.

Don't Miss

APing Shan Tang Clan Gallery

ATang Clan Ancestral Hall

AYu Kiu Ancestral Hall

Practicalities

A屏山文物徑

A GOOGLE MAP

A%852 2617 1959

AHang Tau Tsuen, Ping Shan, Yuen Long

Ahancestral halls & Tsui Sing Lau Pagoda 9am-1pm & 2-5pm Wed-Mon

AmTin Shui Wai, exit E

TOP SIGHT

Hong Kong Global Geopark

MARCO WONG / GETTY IMAGES ©

The breathtaking, Unesco-listed Hong Kong Global Geopark spans 50 sq km across the eastern and northeastern New Territories and comprises two regions of spectacular rock formations – volcanic (140 million years) and sedimentary (400 million years ago). The best way to experience either region is by joining a guided boat tour. R2G, the Recommended Geopark Guide System (http://hkr2g.net), has more information.

The beautiful Sai Kung Volcanic Rock Region features interlocking hexagonal volcanic rock columns with a honeycomb-shaped cross-section lined up in tilting clusters like fingers pointing at the sky. They may cover an entire rock face like the pipes of a giant organ, or stick out above a secluded bay like a metaphor for the city.

The formations are similar to the grey basaltic lava formations in Giant's Causeway in Northern Ireland, but Hong Kong's acidic, silica-rich rocks are a luminous yellow, which is rare and looks stunning against the blue of the sea and, on a sunny day, the sky.

The columns were made by lava and volcanic ash that cooled and contracted after violent volcanic eruptions in the Cretaceous Period. In some places, including this region's only walkable section at High Island Reservoir East Dam, you can see rocks buckled by gravity before they managed to cool completely.

You'll also get to visit old villages, including 400-year-old Hakka walled village Lai Chi Wo (荔枝窩 GOOGLE MAP ; hakkahomelcw@gmail.com).

Don't Miss

ASea stacks and sea arches

ARed siltstone and secluded islands

Practicalities

A香港地質公園

Awww.geopark.gov.hk

Tsuen Wan

Explore

The industrial and residential New Town of Tsuen Wan is nothing special, but its outskirts can be rewarding, especially if you are an early bird.

Eating yum cha in the morning at one of the teahouses in Chuen Lung village is an experience. After breakfast, hikers usually continue up to Tai Mo Shan Country Park. If you want to see vibrant temples, head back to the town centre and take a minibus bound for the serene Western Monastery and colourful Yuen Yuen Institute, the latter stuffed with all manner of deities; or make a pilgrimage to Chuk Lam Sim Monastery.

Do not miss the Hakka-themed Sam Tung Uk Museum before you head back to the MTR station.

The Best…

ASight Western Monastery

APlace to Sleep Campus Hong Kong

APlace to Eat Yue Kee Roasted Goose Restaurant

Top Tip

Tak Wah Park in the centre of town, with ancient trees and footbridges over ponds, is an ideal spot to take a break from the hustle and bustle of Tsuen Wan.

Getting There & Away

ABus Many buses from around the New Territories arrive at Tsuen Wan Bus Terminus ( GOOGLE MAP ; under Tsuen Wan West MTR station; mTsuen Wan West, exit A1), including bus 60M from Tuen Mun and 68M from Yuen Long. Bus 51 ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; on Tai Ho Rd overpass, Tsuen Wan; mTsuen Wan, exit A1) from Tai Mo Shan and Kam Tin stops along Tai Ho Rd. The main bus station is opposite the MTR on Castle Peak Rd (exit A2), but buses and green minibuses, including minibus 80 ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Chuen Lung St, Tsuen Wan; mTsuen Wan, exit B1) and minibuses 81 and 85 ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Shiu Wo St, Tsuen Wan; mTsuen Wan, exit B1) pick up and disgorge passengers throughout the New Town.

AMTR Tsuen Wan MTR station is on the Tsuen Wan line; it's on Sai Lau Kok Rd, with the Luk Yeung Galleria shopping centre above it. Tsuen Wan West station is on the West Rail line.

Need to Know

Area Code 852

ALocation 11km northwest of Kowloon Peninsula

ALast train to Kowloon Leaves 2.30am from Tsuen Wan station; 12.24am from Tsuen Wan West station

Tsuen Wan

1Sights

1Chuk Lam Sim MonasteryB2

2Western MonasteryC1

3Yuen Yuen InstituteC1

Transport

4Bus 51B3

5Minibus 80B4

6Minibuses 81 & 85B4

1Sights

Western MonasteryBUDDHIST MONASTERY

(西方寺 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2411 5111; Lo Wai Rd, Sam Dip Tam, Tsuen Wan; h8.30am-5.30pm; ggreen minibus 81)F

This Buddhist monastery built in the '70s is a tranquil spot in which to pass the time. The main building, styled as a Chinese palace, lies behind a statue of the Bodhisattva at the entrance. Further behind is a two-storey building where, depending on the time of day, you may witness scores of monks chanting mantras. It's topped by a nine-storey pagoda, which, like the rest of the complex, calls to mind a set from a period movie.

To reach the monastery, take minibus 81 from Shiu Wo St. A taxi from the MTR station will cost around HK$50.

Yuen Yuen InstituteTAOIST TEMPLE

(圓玄學院 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2492 2220; Lo Wai Rd, Sam Dip Tam, Tsuen Wan; h8.30am-5pm; ggreen minibus 81)F

Stuffed with vivid statuary of Taoist and Buddhist deities plus Confucian saints, the Yuen Yuen Institute, in the hills northeast of Tsuen Wan, gives a fascinating look into Hong Kong's tripartite religious system. The main building is a replica of the Temple of Heaven in Běijīng. On the upper ground floor are three Taoist immortals seated in a quiet hall; walk down to the lower level to watch as crowds of faithful pray and burn offerings to the 60 incarnations of Taoist saints lining the walls.

To reach the institute, take minibus 81 from Shiu Wo St, two blocks due south of Tsuen Wan MTR station (exit B1). A taxi from the MTR station will cost around HK$50.

Chuk Lam Sim MonasteryBUDDHIST MONASTERY

(竹林禪苑 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2416 6557; Fu Yung Shan Rd, Tsuen Wan; h9am-5pm; ggreen minibus 85)

In a bucolic setting, the large Chuk Lam Sim (Bamboo Forest) Monastery was completed in 1932 when (legend has it) Tou Tei, the earth god, told an elderly monk to build it, and he carved it out of a hillside with six disciples. The second hall features three of the largest golden Buddhas in the territory. Locals come to worship the four-faced Brahma (Phra Phrom) statue from Thailand, going round in circles in prayer – clockwise or anti-clockwise depending on the request.

The monastery is northeast of Tsuen Wan MTR station. To reach it, take green minibus 85 from Shiu Wo St.

WORTH A DETOUR

TAI MO SHAN

Hong Kong’s tallest mountain is Tai Mo Shan (957m). Several hiking trails thread up and around it, but you’ll need to bring your own food and water. The Countryside Series North-east & Central New Territories map is the one you want for this area.

The Tai Mo Shan Country Park Visitor Centre (大帽山郊野公園遊客中心 GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2498 9326; cnr Route Twisk & Tai Mo Shan Rd; h9.30am-4.30pm Mon, Wed-Sun, closed Tue; g51 from Tsuen Wan West MTR Bus Terminus) is at the junction of Route Twisk (the name is derived from ‘Tsuen Wan into Shek Kong’) and Tai Mo Shan Rd, which is crossed by the MacLehose Trail.

The nearest MTR station is Tsuen Wan. From there, catch bus 51 on Tai Ho Rd North, alighting at the junction of Route Twisk and Tai Mo Shan Rd in Tsuen Kam Au. Follow Tai Mo Rd, which forms part of stage No 9 of the MacLehose Trail, east to the summit. On the right-hand side, about 45 minutes from the bus stop, a fork in the road leads south along a concrete path to the Sze Lok Yuen Hostel. Bus 64 also links Tai Mo Shan with Yuen Long and Tai Po Market, and bus 25K runs between Tai Po Market and Tai Mo Shan.

5Eating

Choi Lung RestaurantCANTONESE, CHA CHAAN TANG$

(彩龍茶樓 GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2415 5041; 2 Chuen Lung village, Route Twisk; dim sum from HK$12; h5.30am-3pm; gminibus 80 from Tsuen Wan)

This 40-year-old establishment near the village entrance uses spring water to make tofu dessert. It's self-service – pick your dim sum from the kitchen, make your tea, and plonk yourself down on a plastic stool. The best time to go is between 8am and 10am when the widest choices are available and the bustling atmosphere makes you feel you're starting the day right.

Duen Kee RestaurantCANTONESE, CHA CHAAN TANG$

(端記茶樓 GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2490 5246; 57-58 Chuen Lung village, Route Twisk; dim sum from HK$12; h6am-2pm; gminibus 80 from Tsuen Wan)

Not far from Choi Lung Restaurant but closer to the fields is this popular – and no-frills – yum-cha joint. You can have dim sum under one of the parasols on the ground floor, but the true attraction lies upstairs where older villagers show off their caged birds while sipping tea. The home-grown watercress served blanched with oyster sauce is the signature vegetable here.

oYue Kee Roasted Goose RestaurantCANTONESE$$

(裕記大飯店 GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2491 0105; www.yuekee.com.hk/en; 9 Sham Hong Rd, Sham Tseng; meals HK$150-500; h11am-11pm; gminibus 302 from Tai Wo Hau MTR)

In an alley lined with roast-goose restaurants, 54-year-old Yue Kee is king. Order gorgeous plates of coppery-skinned charcoal-roasted goose (half is plenty for four people) and sample house specialities including soy-braised goose web (feet), wine-infused goose liver, and stir-fried goose intestines. If that's not your speed, there are plenty of standard Cantonese dishes on offer. Book ahead.

Tuen Mun

Explore

Industrial-residential Tuen Mun is not a particularly attractive part of Hong Kong, but several historic temples make it worth the trek. If you want to stretch your legs, walk uphill to Tsing Shan Monastery and enjoy the sweeping views of Tuen Mun Valley; lazybones can head to Miu Fat Monastery and Ching Chung Temple, both of which are conveniently served by light rail.

Foodwise, try the local speciality, roast goose, in the neighbourhood of Shem Tseng, or seafood along the coast.

The Best…

ASight Tsing Shan Monastery

APlace to Eat Sam Shing Hui Seafood Market

Top Tip

If you’re travelling to Tuen Mun from Tsuen Wan, Kowloon or Hong Kong Island by bus, sit on the upper deck on the left side for spectacular views of the Tsing Ma Bridge.

Getting There & Away

ABus Bus 60M from Tsuen Wan MTR station (exit A3) travels along the coast to Tuen Mun.

AFerry Services to Tuen Mun ferry pier arrive from Tung Chung, Sha Lo Wan and Tai O (all on Lantau). Ferries to the airport, Tung Chung and Tai O on Lantau depart from the pier to the southwest of the town centre.

ALight Rail Tuen Mun is towards the southern end of the useful light-rail network. Other major points include Tin Shui Wai, Yuen Long and Siu Hong. The station is linked to the MTR station.

AMTR Tuen Mun is on the West Rail line.

Need to Know

Area Code 852

ALocation 30km northwest of Kowloon Peninsula

ALast train to Kowloon Leaves 12.15am from Tuen Mun West Rail station

1Sights

Tsing Shan MonasteryBUDDHIST MONASTERY

(青山禪院 GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2441 6666; www.tsingshanmonastery.org.hk; Tsing Shan Monastery Path; h24hr; d610, 615, 615P)

Also known as Castle Peak Monastery, this temple complex perched on the hill of Castle Peak is the oldest in Hong Kong. Founded by Reverend Pui To (literally, ‘travelling in a cup’) 1500 years ago, the complex you see today was rebuilt in 1926. Check out shrines and temples for different deities and Bodhisattvas, including one to Pui To in a grotto, as you ascend the hill. Some of these have slid into dilapidation; nonetheless they’re imbued with a spooky charm.

The temple was also one of the shooting locations for the Bruce Lee classic Enter the Dragon. To reach here, board light-rail line 610, 615 or 615P and alight at Tsing Shan Tsuen. From there, follow the sign to Tsing Shan Monastery Path, which is due west of the station. The steep path to the entrance of the monastery is a 30-minute hike.

Miu Fat MonasteryBUDDHIST MONASTERY

(妙法寺 GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2461 8567; 18 Castle Peak Rd, Tuen Mun; h9am-5pm; dline 751)

Miu Fat Monastery in Lam Tei, due north of Tuen Mun town centre, is one of Hong Kong's most eccentric Buddhist complexes, second to Sha Tin's 10,000 Buddhas Monastery. The main hall features, with true '70s flamboyance, not only dragons coiled over pillars, but huge stone elephants. Inside there's a golden likeness of Buddha and three larger statues of Lord Gautama. You can't miss the new extension, a 45m tower resembling a huge lotus blossom – it even glows at night.

This is an active monastery; you’ll see brown-robed nuns in droves. To get here take light-rail line 751 from the Tuen Mun or Town Centre stops to Lam Tei station. The complex is on the opposite side of Castle Peak Rd; cross over the walkway and walk north 150m. Bus 63X, from the Mong Kok MTR station, also stops in front of the monastery.

Ching Chung TempleTAOIST TEMPLE

(青松觀, Ching Chung Koon GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2462 1507; www.daoist.org; Tsing Chung Path, Tsing Chung Koon Rd, Tuen Mun; h7am-6pm; dline 505)

Green Pine Temple (c 1950) is a Taoist temple complex northwest of Tuen Mun town centre. With a polychromatic palette, gnarly bonsai trees, florid murals and an ornate rock garden, it's visually quite busy, yet surprisingly peaceful to be in. The main temple is dedicated to Lu Dongbin, a Taoist immortal who likened a righteous man to the hardy and humble pine, and features lanterns given by Běijīng's Imperial Palace. A Bonsai Festival is held here in April or May.

Ching Chung Temple is directly opposite Ching Chung light-rail station. To reach it from the Tuen Mun or Town Centre stations, catch line 505.

5Eating

Sam Shing Hui Seafood MarketSEAFOOD$$

(三聖墟海鮮市場 GOOGLE MAP ; Sam Shing St, Castle Peak Bay, Tuen Mun; meals HK$250-500; h10am-10pm; gminibus 140M from Tsing Yi)

Along Castle Peak Beach, this busy working seafood market sits adjacent to rows of dai pai dong (food stalls), as well as fancier enclosed establishments, ready to cook up whatever you've picked. This is like Sai Kung seafood feasting, but without the tourists and with no English spoken (but pointing and smiling should get you going – just be sure to ask for prices first).

Yuen Long

Explore

Yuen Long is an important transport hub and a gateway to the Mai Po Marshes and the nearby walled villages.

Bring your binoculars and set off early for Mai Po. Morning hours are the best time to go birdwatching. If you didn’t manage to book a guided tour to Mai Po, Hong Kong Wetland Park is a more than worthy substitute. Then head back to town, enjoy lunch in Dai Wing Wah, sampling some walled-village dishes, after which you could visit one or two of those fortified hamlets in Kat Hing Wai and Shui Tau Tsuen.

An even better place to spend an hour or two in the afternoon is along the popular Ping Shan Heritage Trail. Watching the sunset in Pak Nai at the westernmost edge of Hong Kong is an unforgettable experience. Afterwards, a seafood dinner in Lau Fau Shan is the best way to end the day.

The Best…

ASight Hong Kong Wetland Park

APlace to Watch the Sunset Pak Nai

APlace for Sweets Hang Heung

Top Tip

There are several bird hides in Hong Kong Wetland Park. The mudflat hide at the end of the mangrove boardwalk is where you can see the greatest variety of birds.

Getting There & Away

ABus From Yuen Long West Bus Terminal on Kik Yeung Rd, bus 968 leaves for Tin Hau on Hong Kong Island; bus 76K calls at Mai Po, Pak Wo Rd in Fanling and Choi Yun Rd in Sheung Shui.

AGreen minibus Buses 35 and 33 from Tai Fung St travel respectively to Lau Fau Shan and Pak Nai via Ping Shan.

AMTR Yuen Long, Long Ping and Tin Shui Wai stations are on the West Rail line; Ping Shan station is on the light-rail line.

Need to Know

Area Code 852

ALocation 30km northwest of Kowloon Peninsula

ALast Train to Kowloon Leaves 12.26am from Yuen Long West Rail station

1Sights

Ping Shan Heritage Trail

oHong Kong Wetland ParkPARK

(香港濕地公園 GOOGLE MAP ; %852 3152 2666; www.wetlandpark.gov.hk; Wetland Park Rd, Tin Shui Wai; adult/concession HK$30/15; h10am-5pm Wed-Mon; c; g967, d705, 706)

This 60-hectare ecological park is a window on the wetland ecosystems of northwest New Territories. The natural trails, bird hides and viewing platforms make it a handy and excellent spot for birdwatching. The futuristic grass-covered headquarters houses interesting galleries (including one on tropical swamps), a film theatre, a cafe and a viewing gallery. If you have binoculars, bring them; otherwise be prepared to wait to use the fixed points in the viewing galleries and hides (towers or huts from where you can watch birds up close without being observed).

Tang Clan Ancestral HallNOTABLE BUILDING

(鄧氏宗祠 GOOGLE MAP ; Hang Tau Tsuen, Ping Shan, Yuen Long; h9am-1pm & 2-5pm Wed-Sun; mTin Shui Wai, exit E)F

The sense of dignified grandiosity is unmistakable at Hong Kong's most magnificent ancestral hall (c 1273). The spaces and ornaments are larger than life, but keep to an understated palette. Basin feasts (consisting of layers of food piled in a basin) thrown in the courtyards here by the Tangs are famous, as are the fashion shows by one of their best-known members – William Tang, a fashion designer who created uniforms for Dragon Air, the MTR and the HK International Airport.

Pak NaiBEACH

(白泥 GOOGLE MAP ; g33 minibus from Tin Shui Wai MTR)

Literally ‘white mud’, Pak Nai is one of the best places to see the sunset in Hong Kong. This 6km stretch of coastline is dotted with mangroves, fish ponds, farms, shacks and muddy beaches sprinkled with oyster shells. Sunset can be watched from most parts of Deep Bay Rd (it continues as Nim Wan Rd after Upper Pak Nai), the only road meandering along the coastline.

Green minibus 33 goes from Yuen Long via Lau Fau Shan. Check the website of Hong Kong Observatory (www.hko.gov.hk) for the sunset times.

Kat Hing WaiVILLAGE

(吉慶圍 GOOGLE MAP ; g64K)

This tiny village is 500 years old and was walled during the early years of the Ming dynasty (1368–1644). It contains just one main street, off which a host of dark and narrow alleyways lead. There are quite a few new buildings and retiled older ones in the village. A small temple stands at the end of the street. Visitors are asked to make a donation when they enter the village; put the money in the coin slot by the entrance.

You can take photographs of the old Hakka women in their traditional black trousers, tunics and distinctive bamboo hats with black cloth fringes, but they’ll expect you to pay (around HK$10).

To get here from Yuen Long, get off bus 64K at the first bus stop on Kam Tin Rd, cross the road and walk east for 10 minutes. Alternatively, take a taxi from Kam Sheung Rd West Rail station for about HK$28.

WORTH A DETOUR

MAI PO NATURE RESERVE

The stunning 270-hectare Mai Po Nature Reserve (米埔自然保護區 GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2526 1011; www.wwf.org.hk; Mai Po, Sin Tin, Yuen Long; h9am-5pm; g76K from Sheung Shui East Rail or Yuen Long West Rail stations) consists of floating boardwalks and trails through mangroves and mud flats, and is dotted with a dozen hides (towers or huts from where you can watch migrating birds, both common and rare, up close without being observed). See it by joining one of several guided tours run by the World Wide Fund for Nature Hong Kong (WWF; www.wwf.org.hk), which manages the reserve; you can book online. Three-hour tours (HK$120, or HK$100 for those over 65 or students under 18) depart the visitor centre at 9.30am, 10am, 10.30am, 1.30pm, 2pm, and 2.30pm on Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays, and are led by bilingual guides when there are English-speakers present.

5Eating

Ho To Tai Noodle ShopNOODLES$

(好到底麵家 GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2476 2495; 67 Fau Tsoi St, Yuen Long; wonton noodles HK$30; h8am-8pm; dTai Tong Rd)

This 60-year-old Yuen Long institution is one of the world’s cheapest Michelin restaurants. It is best known for the fresh Cantonese egg noodles and shrimp roe noodles that it churns out daily. Foodies from all corners come to slurp the delightful wonton noodles. An English menu is available from the cashier. The haunt is a three-minute walk south of Tai Tong Rd light-rail station.

Hang HeungBAKERY$

(恆香老餅家 GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2479 2141; www.hangheung.com.hk; 64 Castle Peak Rd, Yuen Long; h10am-10pm; mYuen Long, exit B)

Hong Kongers are familiar with the gold lettering on red paper boxes that have been stained by lard from the warm and crumbly Chinese pastries inside. Often they're 'wife cakes' – flaky moons of sweetened wintermelon and white lotus seed paste. But they can also be date paste cakes or egg rolls. Of all of Hang Heung's branches, this old shop in red and gold is the best.

Dai Wing WahHAKKA$

(大榮華 GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2476 9888; 2nd fl, Koon Wong Mansion, 2-6 On Ning Rd; dishes HK$80-400; h6am-11.30pm; dTai Tong Rd)

The brainchild of celebrated chef Leung Man-to, Dai Wing Wah is most famous for its walled-village dishes. Leung sources local ingredients from small farms and food producers whenever possible, and complements them with his innovations in cooking. Must-eats include lemon-steamed grey mullet, smoked oysters and steamed sponge cake with demarara sugar.

From Tai Tong Rd light-rail station, walk north along Kuk Ting St then turn left on to Sai Tai St. You’ll see the restaurant sitting 30m away.

Fanling & Sheung Shui

Explore

Begin with a visit to the Fung Ying Sin Temple, which is just a stone’s throw from Fanling East Rail station. After a vegetarian lunch in the temple, head to Lung Yeuk Tau Heritage Trail for some village immersion.

For the more adventurous, off-the-beaten-path options include the seldom-visited walled village of Ping Kong, or the village of Sha Tau Kok, where Japanese pillboxes from WWII lie intact in the (still) unspoilt countryside.

The Best…

ASight Fung Ying Sin Temple

APlace to Eat Sun Hon Kee

AActivity Lung Yeuk Tau Heritage Trail

Top Tip

Some walled villages along the Lung Yeuk Tau Heritage Trail are private properties; be discreet and show common sense when you visit.

Getting There & Away

ABus Most onward travel connections depart from the East Rail stations. Bus 76K to Yuen Long and Mai Po Marshes departs from Pak Wo Rd in Fanling and Choi Yun Rd in Sheung Shui. Bus 77K to Ping Kong stops at Yuen Long Jockey Club Rd in Fanling and Po Shek Wu Rd in Sheung Shui.

AGreen minibus Bus 58K heads to Ping Kong from San Wan Rd in Sheung Shui.

AMTR Take the MTR to Fanling and Sheung Shui East Rail stations.

Need to Know

Area Code 852

ALocation Fanling and Sheung Shui are in north-central New Territories, much closer to the mainland (5km) than to Tsim Sha Tsui (20km).

ALast Train to Kowloon Leaves 12.26am from Yuen Long West Rail station

1Sights

Tai Fu Tai MansionHISTORIC BUILDING

(大夫第 GOOGLE MAP ; San Tin, Yuen Long; h9am-1pm & 2-5pm Wed-Mon; g76K)

Located between Yuen Long and Sheung Shui, this splendid Mandarin-style building complex dating from 1865 is eclectically fused with Western design. Members of the Man clan, another powerful family in the New Territories, lived here for well over a century until they moved out in 1980. The courtyard is encircled by stone walls with a guarded checkpoint. Inside, auspicious Chinese symbols are found in the woodcarvings along with art-nouveau glass panels, and there is a European fountain.

Board bus 76K in Sheung Shui and get off at the San Tin stop.

Fung Ying Sin TempleTAOIST TEMPLE

(蓬瀛仙館 GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2669 9186; www.fysk.org; 66 Pak Wo Rd, Fanling; h8am-6pm, restaurant 11am-5pm; mFanling)

This brightly coloured Taoist temple perched on a hillside opposite Fanling MTR station is one of Hong Kong's most important Taoist temples. It was founded in 1926 and has been meticulously renovated over the years. There are wonderful exterior murals of Taoist immortals, an orchard terrace, a wall inscribed with Laozi's Dao Dejing (Classic of the Dao and of Virtue), and a vegetarian restaurant (ground and 1st floors, Bldg A7). There's a columbarium behind the temple.

5Eating

Kwan Kee Beef Balls & Pork KnucklesNOODLES$

(群記牛肉丸豬手 GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2675 6382; 5 Luen Cheong St, Luen Wo Hui, Fanling; meals HK$50; h11am-5.45pm)

There's always a wait at this unpretentious shop for the bouncy beef balls and the chewy, collagen-laden pork knuckles served in light-blue plastic bowls and (optional) drizzled with aromatic homemade chilli sauce. They sell out fast and customers may be asked to return an hour later for the next batch.

Sun Hon KeeHAKKA, CANTONESE$$

(新漢記 GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2683 0000; 5 Luen Wo Rd, Fanling; mains HK$88-288; mFanling, exit C)

Well-executed Hakka cuisine, known for its use of preserved ingredients as well as stews and braises, is on offer at this busy two-floor restaurant. Dishes tend to be boldly flavoured, as they're meant to go with rice. Try the chicken cooked in yellow wine (黃酒煮雞), braised pork belly (客家炆豬肉), and pan-seared squid with shallots (紅蒽爆吊桶). Best with rice...or beer.

2Sports & Activities

Lung Yeuk Tau Heritage TrailHERITAGE WALK

(龍躍頭文物徑 GOOGLE MAP ; g54K)

This 4.5km-long trail northeast of Fanling meanders through five relatively well-preserved walled villages, home to the Tang clan. The oldest (800 years), most attractive and most intact village is Lo Wai, identifiable by its 1m-thick fortified wall. Unfortunately, it’s not open to the public. Admire the exterior, before continuing to the more welcoming villages of Tung Kok Wai to the northeast and Sun Wai towards the trail's northern end.

Other attractions here include the Tang Chung Ling Ancestral Hall and the adjacent Tin Hau temple. The ancestral hall was built during the Ming dynasty, and the dragon motif that you’ll see on some of the spirit tablets inside the building was a symbol of the clan’s royal status. The temple houses two bronze bells; one is from 1695, the other, 1700. Shek Lo, literally ‘stone cottage’ and built in 1925, is an eclectic mix of colonial and traditional Chinese architectural styles. The cottage appears to be permanently locked, but it can be seen clearly from the east of Tsung Kyam church, the start of the trail.

To get there from Fanling station (exit C), take the green minibus 54K and ask to be dropped at Tsung Kyam church (Shun Him Tong in Cantonese).

Tai Po

Explore

Formed from two former market towns on either side of the Lam Tsuen River, Tai Po has a lively waterfront downtown ringed by housing estates and, beyond, rolling rural hills. On offer are quirky temples, a cute railway museum and several nature areas. But the best thing about this ever-changing region is the street life. Barter for lychees in the crowded street markets, queue for tofu or noodles at hole-in-the-wall stalls, or watch proud parents photograph their babies toddling along the pedestrian bridge crossing the river. This is old-school Hong Kong living at its finest.

The Best…

ASight Tai Po Market

APlace to Eat Yat Lok Barbecue Restaurant

AActivity Cycling from Tai Po to Plover Cove Reservoir

Top Tip

Tai Po has a number of markets and nature sanctuaries that are more than worth a visit, so wake up early!

Getting There & Away

ABus Bus 71K runs between the Tai Wo and Tai Po Market Transport Interchange ( GOOGLE MAP ; Nga Wan Rd, outside Tai Po Market MTR station, exit A3) while Bus 72 ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Po Heung St, Tai Po) makes stops in Tai Wo and Tai Po.

AGreen minibus For onward travel, start at Tai Po Market East Rail station, or from Heung Sze Wui St, take bus 20K for San Mun Tsai; catch bus 25K at Tsing Yuen St to get to Ng Tung Chai for Tai Mo Shan.

AMTR Take the MTR to Tai Po Market or Tai Wo East Rail stations.

Need to Know

Area Code 852

ALocation 13km to the Hong Kong–China border at Lo Wu; 18km north of Kowloon Peninsula

ALast Train to Kowloon Leaves 12.42am from Tai Wo East Rail station; 12.45am from Tai Po Market East Rail station

Tai Po

1Sights

1Hong Kong Railway MuseumA2

2Tai Po MarketB1

5Eating

3Ah Po TofuC2

4Kwan KeeC2

5Yat Lok Barbecue RestaurantC2

4Sleeping

6Green HubC2

Transport

7Bus 72 StopB2

1Sights

Tai Po MarketMARKET

(大埔街市 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Fu Shin St, Tai Po; h6am-8pm; mTai Wo)

Not to be confused with the MTR station of the same name, this street-long outdoor wet market is one of the most winning in the New Territories. Feast your eyes on a rainbow of fruit and vegetables, tables lined with dried seafood, old ladies hawking glutinous Hakka rice cakes, and stalls selling fresh aloe and sugar cane juices.

Tai Po Waterfront ParkPARK

(大埔海濱公園 GOOGLE MAP ; hInsect House 8am-7pm, tower from 7am, park 24hr; g72A, 73, 73X, 75X, 271, 275R, 275S, 275, 74K)

Hong Kong's largest and arguably most beautiful public park has tree-fringed lawns for picnics and kite-flying, an amphitheatre with white sail-canopies, a cycling track along Tolo Harbour from where you can watch dragon boat races during the Dragon Boat Festival, and an Insect House. The highlight is a quirky lookout tower resembling a rocket in a hoop skirt. It has telescopes with which to view the harbour and high rises in the distance, and the dystopian '70s industrial landscape of Tai Po Industrial Estate.

Kadoorie Farm & Botanic GardenWATERFALL, GARDEN

(梧桐寨瀑布、嘉道理農場暨植物園 GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2483 7200; www.kfbg.org.hk; Lam Kam Rd; aged 12-59/5-11 HK$30/15, below 5 & over 60 free; h9.30am-5pm; g64K)

Kadoorie Farm & Botanic Garden, southwest of Ng Tung Chai, is primarily a conservation and teaching centre, but the gardens are especially lovely, with many indigenous birds, animals, insects and plants in residence. You can reach the farm most easily on bus 64K.

Hong Kong Railway MuseumMUSEUM

(香港鐵路博物館 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2653 3455; www.heritagemuseum.gov.hk/eng/museums/railway.aspx; 13 Shung Tak St; h10am-6pm Wed-Mon; c; mTai Wo)F

Housed in the former Tai Po Market train station (built in 1913 in traditional Chinese style), this small museum is a fun stop for trainspotters and families with train-crazy kids. There are a few exhibits about the history of the Hong Kong railways, but the real draws are the historical train carriages open to visitors.

WORTH A DETOUR

TAI PO KAU NATURE RESERVE

Tai Po Kau Nature ReservePARK

(大埔滘自然護理區 GOOGLE MAP ; Tai Po Rd; g70, 72)

The thickly forested 460-hectare Tai Po Kau Nature Reserve is Hong Kong’s most extensive woodlands. It is home to many species of butterflies, amphibians, birds, dragonflies and trees, and is a superb place in which to enjoy a quiet walk. The reserve is crisscrossed with four main tracks ranging in length from 3km to 10km, plus a short nature trail of less than 1km. If possible, avoid the reserve on Sunday and public holidays, when the crowds descend upon the place.

The reserve is well served by buses. Bus 70 passes through Jordan and Mong Kok on its way here. Bus 72 can be used to get here from the nearby Sha Tin and Tai Po Market East Rail stations. A taxi from Tai Po Market East Rail station will cost around HK$30, and from the University East Rail station about HK$45.

5Eating

oYat Lok Barbecue RestaurantCANTONESE$

(一樂燒臘飯店 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2656 4732; 5 Tai Ming Lane; meals HK$50-180; h11am-11pm; mTai Po Market, exit A2)

Glossy roast goose with shatteringly crisp skin and a pillow of succulent fat is the order of the day at this one-Michelin-star, family-run eatery, which counts celebrity chef Anthony Bourdain among its many fans. Char siu (roast pork) is a bit dry, so focus on the bird. Chinese menu only, but friendly servers will help you order.

Kwan KeeNOODLES$

(群記清湯腩 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2638 3071; 26 Tai Ming Lane,Tai Po Market, Tai Po; meals from HK$45; h1-8pm Mon-Sat; mTai Po Market, exit A2)

The beef brisket in clear broth at this hole-in-the-wall is not only as good as the ones at celebrity shops, but also can be ordered in cuts you wouldn't get elsewhere, such as tender, collagen-jammed beef cheek and unctuous beef tongue. If sticking to brisket, chewy song lahm (爽腩), a cut near the flank, is a perennial favourite. Prepare to queue for a seat.

Ah Po TofuDESSERTS$

(亞婆豆腐花 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Shop 2A, Tai Kwong Lane, Tai Po; tofu pudding HK$8; h10am-8pm; mTai Po Market, exit A2)

You'll recognise this beloved dau fu fa (sweet silky tofu pudding) shop by the line snaking down the busy pedestrian street. Sprinkle on palm sugar to taste, then eat while standing before returning the bowl to the counter.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

TWO-WHEELER'S TAI PO

One cycling route not to miss is the ride from Tai Po to Plover Cove Reservoir on the northeastern side of Tolo Harbour. Another is to the Chinese University of Hong Kong in Ma Liu Shui, on the southwestern side of the harbour. Allow half a day for either trip. There is also an inland route that goes to the university, but the coastal route linking the university with Tai Mei Tuk has better views. Another option is to follow Ting Kok Rd east to the fishing village of San Mun Tsai.

Bicycles can be rented in season from several stalls around Tai Po Market East Rail station, but try to arrive early – they often run out during the busiest times. A number of bicycle shops line Kwong Fuk Rd northwest of the station.

2Sports & Activities

Ng Tung Chai WaterfallHIKING

(梧桐寨瀑布 GOOGLE MAP ; g64 from Tai Po Market MTR)

The scenic area around the Ng Tung Chai Waterfall is a retreat from the bustle of downtown Tai Po. Reach the series of streams and waterfalls by bus 64K from Tai Po Market East Rail station, and get off at Ng Tung Chai stop. Enter the eponymous village and hike through the bamboo groves towards the Man Tak Monastery (萬德苑), which can be reached in 30 minutes. From the monastery, hike uphill for 20 minutes and you’ll see the waterfalls sliding down.

Plover Cove

Explore

Plover Cove has only two themes: hiking and cycling. Large parts of it are designated Geopark areas, so you’ll see rugged rocks and mineral marvels, especially around Plover Cove Reservoir. Plan a full day here. For an easy walk, the 4.4km Pat Sin Leng Nature Trail is a good alternative.

The Best…

APlace to Eat Chung Shing Thai Restaurant

AActivity Biking around Plover Cove Reservoir

Getting There & Away

ABus Take bus 75K (and additionally 74K or 275R on Sundays and holidays) from Tai Po Market East Rail station in Tai Po.

AGreen minibus Bus 20C passes Tai Po Market East Rail station and Heung Sze Wui St in Tai Po on its way to Plover Cove.

Need to Know

Area Code 852

ALocation 12km northeast of Tai Po

A Plover Cove Country Park Management Centre (船灣郊野公園管理中心 GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2665 3413; Tai Mei Tuk; h9.30am-4.30pm)

ALast Train to Kowloon Leaves at 12.45am from Tai Po Market East Rail station

1Sights

Tsz Shan MonasteryMONASTERY

(慈山寺 GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2123 8666; www.tszshan.org; 88 Universal Gate Rd, Tai Po; h9.30am-5pm; mTai Po Market, Tai Wo)

Tsz Shan Monastery spans 46,000 sq metres and took 12 years and HK$1.5 billion to complete. It's state-of-the-art but gracefully cloaked in Tang-dynasty antiquity. Inside its shell of zitan wood is a steel structure that does away with the need for pillars and interlocking eave brackets often associated with Tang architecture, giving a cleaner look. Tsz Shan does not entertain walk-ins. Book online as close to a month ahead as possible. Slots are quickly snapped up once released for booking.

5Eating

Chung Shing Thai RestaurantTHAI$

(忠誠茶座泰國菜 GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2664 5218; 69 Tai Mei Tuk Village,Ting Kok Rd, Tai Po; meals from HK$150; hnoon-3pm & 6-10.30pm)

Arguably the best restaurant in Plover Cove and Tai Mei Tuk food-wise, though not the most atmospheric, loud and busy Chung Shing serves up hearty satays, grilled meats, curries and Thai salads. Al fresco here means dining in air-conditioned comfort behind vinyl covers. Book ahead or go early. It gets crazy at meal times.

2Sports & Activities

oPlover Cove ReservoirOUTDOORS

(船灣淡水湖 GOOGLE MAP ; g75K)

Part of Hong Kong Geopark, this reservoir was completed in 1968, in a very unusual way. Rather than build a dam across a river, of which Hong Kong has very few, a barrier was erected across the mouth of a great bay. The sea water was siphoned out and fresh water was pumped in. The area around the reservoir is glorious hiking and cycling country, and well worth a full day’s exploring.

The village of Tai Mei Tuk, the springboard for most of the activities in the Plover Cove area, is about 6km northeast of Tai Po Market MTR station. Bicycles can be rented at several locations in Tai Mei Tuk, including Lung Kee Bikes. A bicycle track along the coast runs from Tai Mei Tuk to Chinese University at Ma Liu Shui. Ting Kok Rd in Lung Mei Village is also where you’ll find a row of restaurants.

You can also take a stroll along the dam of Plover Cove Reservoir, accessible via a path next to Bradbury Jockey Club Youth Hostel ( GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2662 5123; 66 Tai Mei Tuk Rd; dm Sun-Thu HK$110-150, Fri & Sat HK$130-170, r Sun-Thu HK$380-1060, Fri & Sat HK$480-1220; g75K), and watch people cycling and flying kites. It's beautiful at sunset. The dam is also a popular venue for watching comet showers. Plover Cove Reservoir was the world's first lake to be built from the sea and the idea is said to have come from the then governor while on a leisurely boat trip in this beautiful area.

The Plover Cove Country Park Management Centre, a short distance further east from the car park on Ting Kok Rd, is where the Pat Sin Leng Nature Trail to Bride’s Pool starts.

Pat Sin Leng Nature TrailHIKING

(八仙嶺自然教育徑 GOOGLE MAP ; g75K)

This excellent 4.4km-long trail, which should take from two to 2½ hours, leads from the Plover Cove Country Park Management Centre at Tai Mei Tuk and heads northeast for 4km to Bride’s Pool; there are signboards numbered 1 to 22, so there is little danger of getting lost. The scenery is excellent and the two waterfalls at Bride’s Pool are delightful, but the place gets packed on the weekend.

You can either return to Tai Mei Tuk via Bride’s Pool Rd on foot or catch green minibus 20C, which stops at Tai Mei Tuk before carrying on to Tai Po Market MTR station.

Those looking for a more strenuous hike can join stage No 9 of the Wilson Trail at Tai Mei Tuk on the Plover Cove Reservoir and head west into the steep Pat Sin Leng range of hills to Wong Leng Shan (639m). The trail then carries on westward to Hok Tau Reservoir and Hok Tau Wai (12km, four hours).

Lung Kee BikesCYCLING

(龍記單車 GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2662 5266; Tai Mei Tuk Village, Ting Kok Rd, Tai Po; bicycle rental per hr HK$10-40, per day HK$40-100; h9.30am-7.30pm; g75K)

Bicycles can be rented at Tai Mei Tuk at several locations, including Lung Kee Bikes. A bicycle track along the coast runs from Tai Mei Tuk to Chinese University at Ma Liu Shui.

Sha Tin

Explore

You’re likely to arrive in New Town Plaza, a claustrophobic mall connected to Sha Tin MTR station, if you visit this busy part of the New Territories. There are three noteworthy religious establishments in the area – 10,000 Buddhas Monastery, Po Fook Hill columbarium and Che Kung Temple. The town’s other key drawcard is the Heritage Museum, where you can relive Hong Kong’s past in a range of thoughtfully constructed exhibitions.

If you’d rather have some raw outdoor action, then time your visit with one of the rip-roaring weekend race days at the beautifully set Sha Tin Racecourse.

The Best…

ASight Hong Kong Heritage Museum

APlace to Win Big Sha Tin Racecourse

APlace to Eat Sha Tin 18

Top Tip

On race days, entry to the Sha Tin Racecourse is free from around 3pm (roughly halfway through the afternoon program).

Getting There & Away

ABus Buses into and out of Sha Tin leave from/terminate at New Town Plaza Bus Terminus (新城市中心巴士總站 MAP GOOGLE MAP ). Bus 182 links Sha Tin with Wan Chai, Admiralty and Central. Bus 170 connects Sha Tin East Rail bus station with Causeway Bay and Aberdeen. Bus 299 shuttles between Sha Tin and Sai Kung.

AMTR Sha Tin, Tai Wai and Racecourse stations are on the East Rail line; Che Kung Temple station is on Ma On Shan line.

Need to Know

Area Code 852

ALocation 12km north of Kowloon Peninsula

ALast Train to Kowloon Leaves at 12.57am from Sha Tin East Rail station

Sha Tin

1Top Sights

1Hong Kong Heritage MuseumA3

1Sights

210,000 Buddhas MonasteryA1

3Tao Fong Shan Christian CentreA2

5Eating

4Lung Wah Hotel RestaurantB1

5Shing KeeB1

4Sleeping

Tao Fong Shan Pilgrim's HallA2

Transport

6New Town Plaza Bus TerminusB2

1Sights

oHong Kong Heritage MuseumMUSEUM

(香港文化博物館 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2180 8188; www.heritagemuseum.gov.hk; 1 Man Lam Rd; adult/concession HK$10/5, Wed free; h10am-6pm Mon & Wed-Sat, to 7pm Sun; c; mChe Kung Temple, exit A)

Southwest of Sha Tin town centre, this spacious, high-quality museum inside an ugly building gives a peek into local history and culture. Highlights include a children's area with interactive play zones, the New Territories Heritage Hall with mock-ups of traditional minority villages, the Cantonese Opera Heritage Hall, where you can watch old operas with English subtitles, and an elegant gallery of Chinese art. There's also a Bruce Lee exhibit, with some 600 items of the kung fu star's memorabilia on display until July 2018.

10,000 Buddhas MonasteryTEMPLE

(萬佛寺 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2691 1067; h10am-5pm; mSha Tin, exit B)F

Built in the 1950s, this quirky temple actually contains more than 10,000 Buddhas. Some 12,800 miniature statues line the walls of the main temple and dozens of life-sized golden statues of Buddha’s followers flank the steep steps leading to the complex. There are several halls and pavilions, as well as a nine-storey pagoda. It's kitsch but so unlike any other temple in Hong Kong that it's worth the uphill hike to visit.

The temple is about 500m northwest of Sha Tin MTR station. To reach it, take exit B at the MTR station and walk down the ramp, passing a series of traditional houses at Pai Tau village on the left. Take the left onto Pai Tau St, and turn right onto Sheung Wo Che St. At the end of this road, a series of signs in English will direct you to the left along a concrete path and through bamboo groves to the first of some 400 steps leading up to the temple.

Amah RockLANDMARK

(望夫石 GOOGLE MAP ; Lion Rock Country Park; mTai Wai)

This oddly shaped boulder southwest of Sha Tin carries a legend. For many years a fisherman’s wife would stand on this spot in the hills above Lion Rock Country Park, watching for her husband to return from the sea while carrying her baby on her back. One day he didn’t come back – and she waited and waited. The gods apparently took pity on her and transported her to heaven on a lightning bolt, leaving her form in stone. Today it's a great day hike.

As you take the MTR south from Sha Tin to Kowloon, Amah Rock is visible to the east (on the left-hand side) up on the hillside after Tai Wai East Rail station, but before the train enters the tunnel.

Tao Fong Shan Christian CentreARCHITECTURE

(道風山基督教叢林 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2694 4038; 33 Tao Fong Shan Rd, Sha Tin)F

A representative of the 'Chinese Revival' architectural style like St Mary's Church, Tao Fung Shan is a Protestant retreat centre, seminary and hostel with Chinese architectural features. In 1929, Karl Ludvig Reichelt, a Norwegian Lutheran missionary who was passionate about Buddhism, bought land on a hill in Sha Tin and commissioned Danish architect Johannes Prip-Möller to design the complex.

Sha Tin RacecourseHORSE RACING

(沙田賽馬場 GOOGLE MAP ; www.hkjc.com; Penfold Park; race-day public stands HK$10, members' enclosures HK$100-150; mRacecourse)

Northeast of Sha Tin town centre is Hong Kong’s second racecourse, which can accommodate up to 80,000 punters. Races are usually held on Sunday afternoon (and sometimes on Saturday and public holidays) from September to early July; a list of race meetings is available on the website.

The Racecourse East Rail station, just west of the track, opens on race days only.

WORTH A DETOUR

UNIVERSITY SIGHTS

Chinese University of Hong Kong (香港中文大學 GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2609 7000; www.cuhk.edu.hk; mUniversity, exit A) has its main campus in Sha Tin. If you are in this neck of the woods, it’s worth making time to see the university’s art museum (香港中文大學文物館 GOOGLE MAP ; %852 3943 7416; www.cuhk.edu.hk/ics/amm; Institute of Chinese Studies, Central Campus; h10am-5pm, closed public holidays; mUniversity, exit A). The four-floor East Wing Galleries house a permanent collection of Chinese paintings and calligraphy, but it is the ceramics and jade objets d’art that are especially worth inspecting, including 2000-year-old bronze seals and a large collection of jade flower carvings. The West Wing Galleries stage five to six special exhibitions each year.

Other than that, the lotus pond in Chung Chi Campus (you’ll see it when you step out of the train station) is a photogenic spot, especially when the lotuses are blooming in spring; and the Pavilion of Harmony (合一亭) in hilly New Asia Campus offers panoramic views of Tolo Harbour.

A shuttle bus from University station travels through the campuses. The bus runs every 20 to 30 minutes daily and is free.

5Eating

FoodyTAIWANESE, INTERNATIONAL$

(伙食工業 GOOGLE MAP ; %852 3586 0863; Shop 3, ground fl, Leader Industrial Centre, 57-59 Au Pui Wan St, Fo Tan; meals HK$80-180; hnoon-6pm Mon, to 10.30pm Tue-Sun)

Taiwanese-style noodles and fried chicken as well as pastas and burgers served in a spacious, shabby chic cafe decorated with retro furniture and vintage objects. The food is decent though not exceptional, but slouchy chairs and friendly service make it a great place for chilling. Taiwanese R&B is played during the day, with occasional gigs by singer-songwriter types at night.

Entrance is on Fo Tan Rd.

Shing KeeDAI PAI DONG, CANTONESE$

(盛記 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2692 6611; Shop 5, Lek Yuen Estate Market; meal from HK$80; h6am-4pm & 7-11pm; g83K from Sha Tin New Town Plaza, mSha Tin)

Tucked into the oldest public housing estate in Sha Tin, this 30-year-old establishment is no ordinary dai pai dong (food stall). It resembles a gallery, with black-and-white photos stuck on the wall, CDs, toys, and potted plants in other corners. All of which, including the chairs, were picked up from public wheelie bins and arty-craftily recycled by the owner.

Noodles are served in the daytime. In the evening, it turns into a popular hotpot joint, with several dozens of broths on offer. To get there, take bus 83K, or it’s a 15-minute walk northeast from Sha Tin station.

Lung Wah Hotel RestaurantCANTONESE$

(龍華酒店 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2691 1828; www.lungwahhotel.hk; 22 Ha Wo Che; pigeon HK$98; h11am-11pm; mSha Tin, exit B)

Shatin's first postwar hotel (c 1951) is where Bruce Lee is said to have stayed during the filming of The Big Boss. The hotel closed in 1985 and this dated restaurant frequented by nostalgic Hong Kongers remains. It's still 1971 here – there are peacocks kept in cages and old men come to play mah-jong. The roast pigeon is delicious, but service can be surly.

To reach the hotel, walk north for 10 minutes along the railway line after exiting the Sha Tin MTR station.

oSha Tin 18CANTONESE, CHINESE$$

(沙田18 GOOGLE MAP ; %852 3723 7932; www.hongkong.shatin.hyatt.com; 18 Chak Cheung St, Hyatt Regency Hong Kong; meals HK$300-700; h11.30am-3pm & 5.30-10.30pm; mUniversity)

The Peking duck (whole HK$785, half HK$500) here has put this hotel restaurant, adjacent to the Chinese University, in the gastronomic spotlight. Book your prized fowl 24 hours in advance, and tantalise your taste buds in three ways – pancakes with the crispy skin, meat and leeks, duck soup and wok-fried minced duck. The Asian fusion desserts here are also famous.

Sai Kung Peninsula

Explore

The rugged and massive Sai Kung Peninsula is an outdoor-pursuits paradise. The hiking is excellent here – the MacLehose Trail runs right across it. Sai Kung town is a good base for exploring the easily accessible countryside. This eclectic waterfront town has a cluster of restaurants and is also a stopping point and transport hub to and from the surrounding countryside. A kaido (small, open-sea ferry) trip to one or more of the little offshore islands and their secluded beaches is recommended.

The Best…

ASight Hong Kong Global Geopark

APlace to Eat Loaf On

APlace to Drink Classifieds

Top Tip

Near the Sai Kung town pier, you’ll find one of the liveliest fish markets in Hong Kong, where fishermen sell their catch directly from their boats.

Getting There & Away

ABus To/from Sai Kung town, bus 299 connects to Sha Tin East Rail station, bus 92 to Diamond Hill and Choi Hung, bus 96R (Sunday and public holidays) connects to Wong Shek, Hebe Haven, and Choi Hung and Diamond Hill MTR stations, while bus 792M calls at Tseung Kwan O and Tiu Keng Leng MTR stations. Bus 94 goes to Wong Shek. Village Bus 29R runs from Chan Man St in Sai Kung town to Sai Wan Pavilion. The bus terminus ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Sai Kung Waterfront Park) is on the waterfront.

AGreen minibus To/from Sai Kung town, buses 1A, 1M and 1S (12.30am to 6.10am) connect with Hebe Haven and Choi Hung MTR station. The minibus terminus (小巴總站 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Sai Kung Waterfront Park) is on the waterfront.

Need to Know

Area Code 852

ALocation 21km northeast of Kowloon

ASai Kung Country Park Visitor Centre (西貢郊野公園遊客中心 GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2792 7365; Tai Mong Tsai Rd, Sai Kung Peninsula; h9.30am-4.30pm Wed-Mon; g94) In Pak Tam Chung, by the road from Sai Kung town.

ALast Train to Kowloon Leaves at 12.20am from Tseung Kwan O station, 12.22am from Tiu Keng Leng MTR station

Sai Kung Town

5Eating

1Ali Oli Bakery CafeB2

2Chuen Kee Seafood RestaurantC2

3Honeymoon DessertA2

4Loaf OnB3

6Drinking & Nightlife

5ClassifiedB2

6SteamersB3

Transport

7Bus TerminusC2

8Minibus TerminusC2

1Sights

Hong Kong Global Geopark

Sai Kung TownAREA

(西貢市中心 GOOGLE MAP ; g92, mChoi Hung, minibus 1A, 1M, g299, mSha Tin East Rail)

Sai Kung Peninsula is one of the last havens left in Hong Kong for hikers, swimmers and boaters, and most of it is one beautiful 7500-hectare country park. A short journey to any of the beach islands off Sai Kung town is rewarding. Small ferry boats depart from the waterfront. There are also boats moored along the waterfront selling seafood. Though prices may not be cheaper than in the markets, the atmosphere is unbeatable.

The MacLehose Trail, a 100km route across the New Territories, begins at Pak Tam Chung on the Sai Kung Peninsula. On top of this, Sai Kung town boasts excellent Chinese seafood restaurants, especially along the attractive waterfront.

Lions Nature Education CentreNATURE RESERVE

(獅子會自然教育中心 GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2792 2234; www.lnec.gov.hk; Pak Kong; h9am-5pm Wed-Mon; c; g92)F

One of the best kid-pleasing destinations around, this 34-hectare attraction, 2km northwest of Hebe Haven, is Hong Kong’s first nature education centre. It comprises everything from an arboretum, a medicinal plants garden and an insectarium to a mineral and rocks corner and a shell house. The Dragonfly Pond, which boasts up to a quarter of the more than 100 dragonfly species found in Hong Kong, is the star of the show.

5Eating

Honeymoon DessertDESSERTS$

(滿記甜品 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2792 4991; Units B&C, 10A Po Tung Rd, Sai Kung; desserts from HK$20; h1pm-2.45am; g1)

This shop specialises in Chinese dessert concoctions made with nuts, pulses and root vegetables, or with fruit, coconut milk and sago. It also – famously – whips up crêpes and puddings with durian. If the pungent fruit does not float your boat, there are versions with mango and banana.

Ali Oli Bakery CafeEUROPEAN, BAKERY$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2792 2655; 11 Sha Tsui Path, Sai Kung; pastries from HK$20, all-day breakfast HK$90; h8am-7.30pm; g1)

This bakery is a favourite with hikers, with simple sandwiches on European-style homemade bread, and pies and preserves. Breakfast and set lunches are also offered here and are best enjoyed at its outdoor tables. Service can be patchy.

oLoaf OnCANTONESE, SEAFOOD$$

(六福菜館 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2792 9966; 49 See Cheung St, Sai Kung; dishes from HK$100; h11am-11pm; g1)

The motto here is: eat what they hunt. This three-storey Michelin-star restaurant is where fish freshly caught from Sai Kung waters in the morning lands on customers’ plates by midday. The signature fish soup and steamed fish sell out fast. There is no English signage, but it’s identifiable by a lone dining table set outside and the shiny brass sign. Reservations recommended.

Chuen Kee Seafood RestaurantSEAFOOD$$$

(全記海鮮菜館 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2792 6938; 87-89 Man Nin St, Sai Kung; seafood meals from HK$350; h7am-11pm; g1)

Any Hong Kong seafood place worth its salt serves fresh marine life. The difference between Chuen Kee and low-key shops is the sheer range of fish, crustaceans and molluscs available here – all displayed alive at the entrance of course. The preparation is similar, but you'll get goods unseen elsewhere, such as palm-length mantis shrimp, king crab and foot-long razor clams.

6Drinking & Nightlife

ClassifiedWINE BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2529 3454; 5 Sha Tsui Path, Sai Kung; h8am-midnight)

Classy Classified is the place to go in Sai Kung for good wine and cheese. Wooden communal tables and open frontage make it ideal for people-watching too.

SteamersBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2792 6991; www.steamerssaikung.com; 66 Yi Chun St, Sai Kung; h9am-2am, happy hour 2-8pm Mon-Fri; g1)

Steamers is graced with a blissful alfresco bar area where you can chill with some excellently blended cocktails and bar grub.

2Sports & Activities

oHigh Island Reservoir East DamHIKING

(萬宜水庫東霸 GOOGLE MAP )

A reservoir built in the 1970s, the South China Sea, and 14-million-year-old volcanic rocks make this one of Hong Kong's most breathtaking places. High Island Reservoir East Dam is in the only part of Hong Kong Global Geopark that's reachable on foot, and the only place where you can touch the hexagonal rock columns. The scenery is surreal and made even more so by the presence of thousands of dolosse blocks (huge cement barriers shaped like jacks) placed along the coast to break sea waves.

Hong Kong's second reservoir built by sealing off the coast with dams – Plover Cove was the first – High Island was constructed to provide fresh water to the territory when mainland China shut down supply during the 1967 riots. It was designed by Binnie & Partners of London and constructed by an Italian company, Vianini Lavori. At the southern end of East Dam, you'll see a giant dolos block in sky blue. It's a memorial erected by Vianini Lavori to those who died on the project. Nearby there's a slab of concrete that commemorates, in Chinese and English, the inauguration of the reservoir in 1978. The construction of the reservoir had one unintentional effect – it made a part of what 30 years later became Hong Kong Global Geopark accessible on foot. Off the coast of the southern end of the dam is Po Pin Chau (literally, Broken-Sided Island), a massive sea stack with rock columns all over its face like a giant pipe organ.

oTai Long Wan Hiking TrailHIKING

(大浪灣遠足郊遊徑 GOOGLE MAP ; gvillage bus 29R)

The northern end of Sai Kung Peninsula has several wonderful hikes that will take you through some of Hong Kong's most pristine scenery. The breathtaking 12km Tai Long Wan Hiking Trail, which starts from the end of Sai Wan Rd and passes through beautiful coves including Sai Wan, Tai Long Wan and Chek Keng, is a perennially popular option. On weekdays you’re likely to have the trail to yourself. The walk takes five to six hours.

Take the village bus 29R at Chan Man Rd (the stop is in front of McDonald’s), get off at the last stop – Sai Wan Ting (西灣亭), literally West Bay Pagoda – and start the hike there. Departures are more frequent on Sundays and public holidays. A taxi ride will be less than HK$160. The trail ends at Pak Tam Au, from where you can catch a minibus back to Sai Kung town.

Chong Hing Water Sports CentreWATER SPORTS

(創興水上活動中心 GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2792 6810; www.lcsd.gov.hk/en/watersport/hiring/hiring_craft/hiri_book1.html; West Sea Cofferdam, High Island Reservoir, Sai Kung; canoe, dinghy & board hire per hr HK$20-30)

Government-run water-sports centre with a vast artificial lake, a campsite and Astropark (天文公園 GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2792 6810; http://astropark.hk.space.museum; h24hr). You can hire crafts for sailing, canoeing and windsurfing, or book tents for HK$7 to HK$24 a day. It also operates canoe tours to sea caves.

Bring your passport. Take bus route 94, 96R or 698R to Wong Shek Pier, or green minibus 7 from Sai Kung to Hoi Ha or 9 from Sai Kung to Lady MacLehose Holiday Village in Pak Tam Chung. From both, a 15-minute taxi ride should take you to the centre.

Hoi Ha Wan Marine ParkOUTDOORS

(海下灣海岸公園 GOOGLE MAP ; %1823; Hoi Ha; ggreen minibus 7)

A rewarding 6km walk here starts from the village of Hoi Ha, part of the Hoi Ha Wan Marine Park, a 260-hectare protected area blocked off by concrete booms from the Tolo Channel and closed to fishing vessels. There are mangroves along the coast, coral growing in abundance underwater, starfish and Nemo's friends.

Snorkels, masks and kayaks can be rented from Wan Hoi Store (852 2328 2169) on the beach. Green minibus 7 makes the run from Sai Kung town daily, with the first departure at 8.25am and the last at 6.45pm. A taxi from there will cost around HK$130.

Clearwater Bay Peninsula

Explore

Tseung Kwan O, accessible via the MTR station of the same name, is the springboard to the Clearwater Bay Peninsula. There are several wonderful beaches for whiling away an afternoon. The most beautiful and popular are Clearwater Bay First Beach and Clearwater Bay Second Beach. They are often packed with local weekenders during the warmer months.

The Clearwater Bay Country Park offers some easy but exceptional walks with sweeping views of the bay. The secluded Tai Miu Temple, dedicated to the goddess of heaven, is best visited during Tin Hau’s Birthday Festival in April or May. Seafood lovers will not want to miss Po Toi O village: this is where you can enjoy sumptuous seafood and home-style cooking at its best.

The Best…

ASight Joss House Bay Tin Hau Temple

ABeach Clearwater Bay Second Beach

APlace to Eat Seafood Island

Top Tip

Early birds shouldn’t miss the breathtaking sunrise that can be watched from Clearwater Bay Second Beach. The first minibus leaves at 6am.

Getting There & Away

ABus Bus 91 runs from Diamond Hill and Choi Hung MTR stations to Tai Au Mun.

AGreen minibus Bus 103M runs between Tseung Kwan O MTR station and Clearwater Bay. Bus 103 runs to Kwun Tong ferry pier, and bus 16 to Po Lam MTR station.

Need to Know

Area Code 852

ALocation 15km east of Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon; Junk Bay (Tseung Kwan O) is to the west of the peninsula and Clearwater Bay (Tsing Sui Wan) sits to the east; Joss House Bay (Tai Miu Wan) lies to the south

A Clearwater Bay Country Park Visitor Centre

ALast train to Kowloon Leaves at 12.16am from Po Lam MTR station

1Sights

Joss House Bay Tin Hau TempleTEMPLE

(糧船灣天后古廟 GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2519 9155; h8am-5pm; minibus 16)

This far-flung temple along Tai Au Mun Rd is the largest, oldest and one of the most important Tin Hau temples in the territory, hence its nickname 'Big Temple' (大廟, 'Tai Miu'). It features protruding eaves, two miniature boats, and a large courtyard where fishermen often dry silver bait. It was built in 1266 by Fujianese salt traders to thank the deity for saving them during a storm and has been restored four times.

Clearwater Bay BeachesBEACH

(清水灣一灘和二灘 GOOGLE MAP ; g91)F

From Tai Au Mun, Tai Au Mun Rd leads south to two fine, sandy beaches: Clearwater Bay First Beach (清水灣一灘) and, a bit further southwest, Clearwater Bay Second Beach (清水灣二灘). In summer try to go during the week, as both beaches get very crowded on the weekend.

5Eating

Seafood IslandCANTONESE, SEAFOOD$$

(海鮮島海鮮酒家 GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2719 5730; Shop B, 7 Po Toi O Chuen Rd; meals from HK$180; h11am-11pm)

Crustaceans of every kind are on full display at this energetic restaurant hidden in discreet Po Toi O village. A totally non-luxe setting but with no-nonsense fare, Seafood Island is famed for its squid sashimi and razor clams. It’s more a group activity to dine here. Grab a couple of friends and enjoy all the treats on offer.

2Sports & Activities

Clearwater Bay Country ParkOUTDOORS

(清水灣郊野公園 GOOGLE MAP ; g103)

The heart of the country park is Tai Au Mun, from where trails go in various directions, through the Clearwater Bay Country Park Visitor Centre (清水灣郊野公園遊客中心 GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2719 0032; h9.30am-4.30pm, closed Tue; g91 from Choi Hung to Tai Au Mun) to the southeast in Tai Hang Tun. Take Lung Ha Wan Rd north from Tai Au Mun to the beach at Lung Ha Wan (Lobster Bay) and return via the 2.3km Lung Ha Wan Country Trail.

Clearwater Bay Golf & Country ClubGOLF

(清水灣高爾夫球鄉村俱樂部 GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2335 3700; www.cwbgolf.org; 139 Tau Au Mun Rd, Clearwater Bay; greens fees HK$1600-2200; g91)

A 27-hole course at the tip of Clearwater Bay in the New Territories. Nonmembers can play here on weekday mornings except public holidays and Wednesdays. Tee-off time is from 9.30am to 11.30am.