The tree-lined streets of Philadelphia’s most landmark-laden neighborhood are perfect for exploring by foot. What’s loveliest about Old City is the seamless urban melding of old and new, Colonial and contemporary, classical and artful, and the excellent (and often eccentric) discoveries that pop up where you least expect them. START: Old City Coffee, 221 Church St.

 

Christ Church. To Old City residents, the gleaming white spire of this most colonial of churches is as iconic to their neighborhood as City Hall’s statue of William Penn (1644–1718) is to the whole of Philadelphia. A few facts worth noting about this built-in-1727–1754 but-still-well-attended-today landmark: The massive Palladian window behind the altar was the inspiration for that of Independence Hall. Assigned seating was by pew rather than open benches (note Washington’s [1732–1799] spot). William Penn was baptized in the font, a gift from All Hallows’ Church in London. It’s perfectly fine to walk on the floor-level tomb markers in the nave. And the shaded churchyard benches are great places to catch up on your people watching. (Go to page, .) ½ hr. 2nd & Market sts. Free admission.

Larry Becker Contemporary Art. Your first example of the newer half of Old City, this minimalist, modern gallery displays the mostly spare and always modern work of international artists such as Robert Ryman (b. 1930), Rebecca Salter (b. 1977), and native son Quentin Morris (b. 1945). 20 min. 43 N. 2nd St. 215/925-5389. Free admission. By appointment only.

Betsy Ross House. Another architectural emblem, this American seamstress’ apparent dwelling is a brilliant example of the absolute compactness of life for the average Colonial family. Elizabeth (Betsy) Ross (1752–1836) was a Quaker needlewoman who, newly widowed in 1776, worked as a seamstress and upholsterer out of the space that is now the gift shop. According to lore, General Washington asked Ross to sew the original flag, 13 stars set in a field of 13 red and white stripes. According to recorded history, Ross at the very least sewed such flags for the American fleet. A courtyard park separates the house from the street; here Ross and her last husband are buried. (Go to page, .) ½ hr. Free admission. 239 Arch St.

Elfreth’s Alley. From a small house to a small street of small houses. In 1700, this cobblestone lane was the address of a melting pot of artisans and tradesmen who worked in shipping. Fifty years later, the street was occupied by haberdashers, bakers, printers, and carpenters. In the late 18th through 19th centuries, Jewish, African-American, Welsh, and German residents lived along Elfreth’s Alley. Number 126, the circa-1755 Mantua (cape) Maker’s House belonged to blacksmith Jeremiah Elfreth (1723–1765). It’s now the street’s museum, with a restored back garden and an interior that includes a dressmaker’s shop and bedroom. Best time to visit: The second weekend in June, when most of the alley’s houses are open for touring. (Go to page, .) 1 hr. Off 2nd St., toward Front St., btw. Arch & Race sts. 215/574-0560. www.elfrethsalley.org. Free admission to visitor center & gift shop; Museum: $5 adults, $2 children 6–12, free 5 & under (includes 20-minute tour). For tour schedule, call or check Twitter (@elfrethsalley); museum open Tues–Sat 10am–5pm, Sun noon–5pm.

The Clay Studio. This center for ceramics is one of the busiest artist spaces in this always-busy artist community. The Studio—which started as just that, an affordable workspace—now includes a two-floor gallery for new exhibits by international and up-and-coming ceramicists. Workshops and classrooms offer a behind-the-scenes look. 20 min. 137–139 N. 2nd St. (btw. Arch & Race sts.). 215/925-3453. www.theclaystudio.org. Free admission.

Fireman’s Hall. Run by the Philadelphia Fire Department, this restored 1902 firehouse traces its history back to Ben Franklin (1706–1790), the country’s first fire marshal. On display: A circa-1730 hand pumper, the nation’s oldest steam fire engine, modern-day fire safety displays, and artifacts from Ground Zero. ½ hr. 147 N. 2nd St. 215/923-1438. www.firemanshall.org. Free admission. Tues–Sat 10am–4:30pm.

Pierre’s Costumes. More than a million costumes reside at this spot under the Ben Franklin Bridge, a truly fun place to browse—or, if the occasion calls for it, to buy an Uncle Sam top hat, George Washington wig, or just about any Halloween outfit imaginable. 20 min. 211 N. 3rd St. 215/925-7121. www.costumers.com. Mon–Fri 10am–5:30pm, Sat 10am–4pm.

Wexler Gallery. This serene corner space hosts a marvelous variety of cutting-edge art exhibits of fine crafts, exquisite furniture, art glass, studio jewelry, and more. Like most of the galleries in Old City, Wexler stays open late to welcome art-fueled revelers on the first Friday of each month. ½ hr. 201 N. 3rd St. (at Race St.). 215/923-7030. www.wexlergallery.com. Free admission. Tues–Sat 10am–6pm.

Café Ole. If you haven’t yet noticed why Old City has earned its nickname, the “Hipstoric District,” you will once you set foot in this laid-back cafe. Stand in line for truly cool fresh-mint iced tea, creative grilled panini, and tasty hummus plates and Mediterranean salads that won’t break the bank. 147 N. 3rd St. 215/627-2140. $.

Shopping. We may be pointing out the obvious, but this stretch of North 3rd Street between Race and Market streets is sublimely studded with great boutiques—and the occasional bargain. Read more about what’s in stores in Chapter 4 (Go to page) or just take our word for it and pop into Sugarcube, Art in the Age, Vagabond, Third Street Habit, Reward, Lost & Found—or whatever latest vintage or new shop may catch your eye. (We promise you’ll come out dressed like you totally belong in the Hipstoric District.) Take all the time you need.

Moderne Gallery. Among the handful of really great furnishings shops in this area is Bob Aibel’s 20,000-square-foot space, gently stocked with decorative arts from the last century. Look for rare French Art Deco, vintage George Nakashima (1905–1990), Wharton Esherick (1887–1970) pieces, and more artistic gems, all on display and for sale. ½ hr. 111 N. 3rd St. 215/923-8536. www.modernegallery.com. Free admission.

Shane Candies. Anyone want to taste history in the country’s oldest candy store? For 99 years, the Shane family stocked their shop with their famous butter-creams, almond butter crunch, cherry bark, and confections galore; a few years ago they passed the legacy onto the Berley brothers (who run Franklin Fountain a few doors up; Go to page). 20 min. 110 Market St. 215/922-1048. www.shanecandies.com.

Society Hill has the largest concentration of 18th–and early-19th-century architecture in the city—and the country. It also has some of Philly’s most modern houses, intended at one point to improve the caliber of the neighborhood. Loosely bound by Walnut and South streets, the river, and 8th Street, the neighborhood gets its name from the Free Society of Traders, a wealthy 18th-century group of Quaker financiers who footed some of William Penn’s bills. As you explore, keep an eye out for details such as “busybody” mirrors in upper-floor windows, invented by Ben Franklin and used by residents to see who’s at the door without having to descend the stairs; original wrought-iron boot scrapers; and sidewalks that bear antique hitching posts and marble steps, relics of horse-and-buggy days. Before you go, pick up tickets for the first two stops at the Independence Visitor Center (Go to page, ). START: 3rd & Walnut sts.

 

Bishop White House. This elegant circa-1786 home exemplifies gracious upper-class life in early America. Owner William White was quite a worldly fellow: Notice his library, with Encyclopedia Britannica, Sir Walter Scott’s novels, the Koran—and, a luxury for any reader, an indoor “necessary.” ½ hr. (Go to page, .)

Todd House. A much more modest (but far from small) dwelling belonged to John Todd, Jr. This solid, circa-1775 Georgian had a Colonial version of the family storefront, with a first-floor office and a large upstairs parlor, where Todd’s widow Dolley (1768–1849) is said to have met one Mr. James Madison (1751–1836). ½ hr. (Go to page, .)

Powel House. Built in 1765 by a wealthy merchant, this gorgeous Colonial Georgian became the home of Philadelphia mayor Samuel Powel (1738–1793) and his wife, Elizabeth Willing (1743–1830), in 1769. The gentle couple were major party throwers: Anyone who was anyone—Lafayette (1757–1834), Washington, Rush (1756–1833), Franklin—feasted and danced here. (Adams [1735–1826] dubbed the Powels’ parties “sinful dinners.”) Note the entryway’s bas-relief plasterwork, mahogany wainscoting, ballroom chandelier, and formal garden. Since the house is still available for private parties, call before visiting. ½ hr. 244 S. 3rd St. (btw. Walnut & Locust sts). 215/627-0364. www.philalandmarks.org. Admission $5 adults, $4 seniors & students; $12 families. Tours Thurs–Sat noon–4pm; Sun 1–4pm (Jan–Feb by appointment only).

Old St. Joseph’s Church. Double back up 3rd and turn left down Willings Alley to this church, which was founded in 1733 and was the only place in the English-speaking world where Roman Catholics—such as Revolutionary hero General Lafayette—could celebrate Mass publicly (Go to page). 15 min. 321 Willings Alley (4th St., near Walnut St.). 215/923-1733. www.oldstjoseph.org. Free admission.

St. Josephs Way. Walk between the buildings directly across from Old St. Joe’s to enter Bingham Court, a collection of rectilinear brick-and-glass townhouses designed by I. M. Pei as part of a 1960s Society Hill redevelopment initiative; they now go for around $1 million. Continue south along St. Josephs Way, part of a network of narrow alleys between 3rd and 4th streets. Turn right onto Delancey Street (after popping into Delancey Park to pat its iconic three bears). 15 min.

Physick House. Freestanding, with a walled garden, this home diverges from its conjoined peers. Madeira wine importer Henry Hill built the place in 1786; subsequent owner Philip Syng Physick (1768–1837) added Federal flourishes, an inkstand (with Ben Franklin’s fingerprints), and 18th century Italian art. Known as “the father of American surgery,” Physick invented the stomach pump, created new ways to repair fractures, designed needle forceps, pioneered catgut sutures, removed thousands of bladder stones from Supreme Court Chief Justice John Marshall (1755–1835), was doctor to Dolley Madison and Andrew Jackson (1767–1845)—oh, and he helped invent soda, too. 40 min. 321 S. 4th St. (at Delancey St.). 215/925-7866. www.philalandmarks.org. Admission $5 adults, $4 seniors & students. Thurs–Sat noon–4pm; Sun 1–4pm (Jan–Feb by appointment only).

Jim’s Steaks. If it’s past 11am, there’s a line at this corner steak stand, a pioneer in the field of cheesesteaks since 1939. To enjoy the real deal, order “wit (onions) and (Cheez) Whiz” (or, if you must, provolone). Bonus: Unlike its competitors, Jim’s serves beer. 4th & South sts. 215/928-1911. www.jimssteaks.com. $.

Pennsylvania Hospital. The Colonies’ first hospital was founded by—you guessed it—one Benjamin Franklin (along with Dr. Thomas Bond). Back in 1751, it seemed to its contemporaries like a strange venture in social welfare. Today, it’s as vibrant as ever—and welcomes visitors to tour its historic sections. The hospital consists of two wings connected by a grand Center Building, the highlight of which was a sky-lit surgical amphitheater of 1804. As you might imagine, the hospital’s interiors have much altered since those days, but the lovely azalea garden (facing Pine St.) remains, as does a carefully tended apothecary garden of medicinal herbs and an 1817 Benjamin West painting of Christ Healing the Sick in the Temple. ½ hr. 800 Spruce St. (at 8th) 215/829-3000. www.pennhealth.com/pahosp. Free admission; tours available if you book 48 hours ahead. Mon–Fri 8:30am–4:30pm.

Old Pine Street Presbyterian. When John Adams wasn’t grumbling about fancy parties, he might have been sitting in a pew inside the city’s oldest standing (ca. 1768) Presbyterian church. The Colonial nave and the old churchyard are both worth a visit. Old Pine’s congregants are very welcoming. ½ hr. (Go to page, .)

St. Peter’s Episcopal. When Washington wasn’t feasting on potpie and dancing jigs in the Powels’ ballroom, he and Martha (1731–1802) were participating in more solemn occasions as members of this circa-1761 house of worship, part of the “breakaway” from England’s Anglican church in 1784. ½ hr. (Go to page, ).

Headhouse Square. Although this all-brick, open-air market is only a replica of the 1745 original, the site has recently been reborn as a fantastic local farmers’ market that’s open weekends spring through fall. Flanked by cobblestone streets, the “headhouse” at the top of Pine Street is an 1804 firehouse. 15 min. 2nd St., btw. Pine & Lombard sts.

Independence Seaport Museum. Just across Columbus Boulevard, this modern, user-friendly attraction celebrates Society Hill’s proximity to the Delaware River (which was, after all, the reason the neighborhood was established). The maritime collection here is first class, but so are the interactive, all-ages exhibits. Especially of note: Workshop on the Water, where visitors can observe classes in traditional wooden boatbuilding and restoration. 1 hr. 211 S. Columbus Blvd. (at Walnut St.) 215/413-8655. www.phillyseaport.org. Admission $14 adults, $10 seniors, children, students & military (pay $5 after 5pm in summer to visit just museum OR just ships). Daily 10am–5pm (May 23–Aug open to 7pm on Thurs–Sat).

In the past decade, the heart of Philadelphia has experienced a major renaissance. Broad Street’s theaters have grown to become the glittery “Avenue of the Arts;” trendy bistros, shops, and condos transformed a once-dingy corridor of South 13th Street into hip “Midtown Village”; even City Hall has had a facelift and its surrounding Dilworth Plaza turned into a true public space. START: City Hall, Broad & Market sts.

 

Fabric Workshop & Museum. A renovated ware-house—a structure familiar to many Philly artists—houses this unique center for the creation, display, and sale of new work in new materials. Three exhibition galleries and a video lounge show off cutting-edge (and often irresistibly tactile) works of local and international artists. In the permanent collection: Robert Morris’ nuclear bed linens, a richly embroidered screen by Carrie Mae Weems, and a rubbery rug by Mona Hatoum. Artists’ studios tours are available by appointment, and the gift shop is fantastic. 1 hr. 1214 Arch St. (btw. 12th & 13th sts). 215/561-8888. www.fabricworkshop.org. Admission $3 adults, free for children under 12. Mon–Fri 10am–6pm; Sat–Sun noon–5pm.

Center for Architecture. The Philly chapter of the American Institute of Architects offers pristine design exhibits, such as vintage neon and a 3-D model of Center City. The gift-stocked bookstore is worth the trip alone, especially at Christmastime. They also offer $15 city architecture tours Tues, Thurs, and Sat at 2pm (Sat only Dec–Mar). ½ hr. 1218 Arch St. 215/569-3186. www.philadelphiacfa.org. Free admission. Mon–Sat 10am–6pm; Sun noon–5pm.

Masonic Temple. Across from City Hall is a grand lodge of American Freemasonry, a fraternity of obscure, antique origins. A tour of the seven halls offers a crash course in classical architecture—and a glimpse of this fairly secret society where Washington and Franklin were members. 1 hr. 1 N. Broad St. 215/988-1917. www.pagrandlodge.org. Admission $10 adults, $6 students with ID, $5 seniors & children 12 & under. Tours Tues–Fri 10am, 11am, 1pm, 2pm, & 3pm; Sat 10am, 11am, & noon.

City Hall. At the center of Center City stands this wedding cake of an all-masonry building, topped off with a 37-foot, 27-ton bronze statue of city “founder” William Penn. Treaty in hand, Penn faces east toward the Delaware River and Penn Treaty Park, where he signed a peace pact with the Native American Leni Lenape (or “Delaware”) tribe. City Hall’s best parts are its exterior sculptures by Alexander Milne Calder (1846–1923) and its glassed-in observation deck, just below Billy Penn, 500 feet above ground with views clear to New Jersey. An overhaul of surrounding Dilworth Plaza, finished in 2013, provides cafe tables, a park for concerts, and a summer fountain/winter ice rink. 1 hr. (Go to page, ).

Macy’s. No worries: You’re not here to shop. You’re just here to admire the old John Wanamaker’s (now a Macy’s), one of the nation’s oldest department stores. Although a shadow of its former self, this stunning retail arena still alludes to grander days, when proper ladies, before lunching at the store’s Crystal Tearoom, met at the bronze eagle statue from the 1904 World’s Fair in an seven-story atrium under the world’s largest functional pipe organ (28,604 pipes, still frequently played; www.wanamakerorgan.com). Between Thanksgiving and New Year’s, the store attracts crowds for its half-hour holiday light show. ½ hr. 1300 Market St. (at Juniper St.). 215/241-9000. www.macys.com.

Ritz Carlton. So, it’s a little on the fancy side, but it’s worth the couple of extra dollars you’ll spend to have coffee and warm soft pretzels amid the marble and beneath the grand dome of this Pantheon-like structure, opened as Girard Bank in 1908—and transformed into a, well, ritzy hotel in 2000. (Go to page.)

Academy of Music. Flickering gas-lit lanterns announce this 19th century opera hall, modeled after Milan’s La Scala. Gilded and gorgeous, the Academy is known as the “Grand Old Lady of Locust Street.” (Her massive crystal chandelier is to die for.) If possible, catch a performance of the Pennsylvania Ballet, the Opera Company, or even a pop icon like Prince. (Go to page.) 15 min.

Kimmel Center. A few blocks south stands Rafael Viñoly’s (b. 1944) dramatic glass-and-steel, accordion-shaped performing arts center. Opened in 2001, the Kimmel encompasses a 2,500-seat, cello-shaped orchestra hall; a 650-seat theater for smaller performances; an interactive education center; and soaring, community-minded Commonwealth Plaza, which often plays host to free performances. Take the elevator to the rooftop garden for a view of Broad Street, also known as the “Avenue of the Arts.” (This is the place to get those tickets to the Academy.) Free, 1-hour tours at 1pm daily. ½ hr. 300 S. Broad St. (at Spruce St.). 215/790-5886. www.kimmelcenter.org. Free admission. Daily 10am–6pm, or 30 min. past last performance.

Per capita, more people walk to work in Philadelphia than in any other U.S. city. Many of these pedestrians wind up in this exclusive, residential-meets-commercial neighborhood. If it’s a sunny spring day, the Square is the perfect spot to have lunch on a park bench. Fashion tip: If you packed something nice, wear it here. (And if not, take shopping breaks!) START: 19th & Walnut sts.

 

Comcast Center. Philadelphia’s tallest building (975 ft.) comes courtesy of the 25 million people who pay Comcast’s cable bills. When the Center debuted in 2009, the Philadelphia Inquirer called it “a giant USB memory stick.” Stop in the atrium to ogle the people “walking” along the overhead beams, and watch a stunning, 83-foot, 10-million-pixel video display above the elevators. A fun aside: In order to break the “curse of William Penn” (that no Philly professional sports team had won a championship since skyscrapers grew taller than Penn’s statue on City Hall), workers attached a figurine of Penn to the Center’s final beam. A few months later, the Phillies won the World Series. Coincidence? 20 min. 1701 JFK Blvd. www.comcast.com. Free admission.

La Colombe. A Rittenhouse resident wouldn’t dream of starting the day without a cappuccino and an almond croissant from this chic cafe. Eat in, and your breakfast will be handed to you on pretty Deruta pottery. 130 S. 9th St. 215/563-0860. www.lacolombe.com. $.

Mütter Museum. Visitors—especially kids—will be fascinated, possibly frightened, and definitely grossed out by the huge collection of medical oddities at this dimly lit, 19th-century building that feels straight out of Harry Potter—or, at least, Young Frankenstein. A whopping 20,000 strange-to-creepy objects fill the exhibit spaces at the College of Physicians (no longer a college)—including Grover Cleveland’s (1837–1908) “secret tumor,” a plaster cast of conjoined twins Chang and Eng (1811–1874), John Wilkes Booth’s (1838–1865) thorax—and horrifying antique surgical instruments. 1½ hr. 19 S. 22nd St. (btw. Market & Chestnut sts.). 215/563-3737, ext 293. www.collphyphil.org. Admission $15 adults, $13 seniors & military with ID, $10 students, free 5 & under. Daily 10am–5pm.

Schuylkill Banks. Another welcome improvement to the cityscape is the extension of the paved riverbank trail from the Art Museum to this neighborhood. Check out what urban progress looks like—and sign yourself up for a kayak lesson while you’re here. Entrance at 24th and Locust (cross the tracks) or down the staircase at 24th and Walnut. 1 hr. 24th and Locust sts. 215/222-6030. www.schuylkillbanks.org.

Rosenbach Museum. Although it feels like a library, what with the 30,000 rare books and ten times as many precious documents, this grand repository is, in fact, a museum. So, as much as you’d like to leaf through James Joyce’s (1882–1941) original Ulysses, peruse a first-edition Melville (1819–1891), or borrow one of Maurice Sendak’s (b. 1928) paintings for Where the Wild Things Are, you can’t—even if the Rosenbach is currently merging with the Free Library. These are artifacts; not loaners. What you may do: Wander about the lovely townhouse into art- and antique-filled rooms left over from the Rosenbachs’ time living here. 1 hr. 2008–2010 Delancey Place. 215/732-1600. www.rosenbach.org. Admission $10 adults, $8 seniors, $5 students, free 4 & under. Tues & Fri noon–5pm, Wed–Thurs noon–8pm, Sat–Sun noon–6pm.

Rittenhouse Square. Nearly a century ago, Paul Philippe Cret (1876–1945), designer of Ben Franklin Parkway, gave this park its rather polished good bones. Today, it’s the city’s most perfect people-watching spot with some charming outdoor sculpture, such as the central plaza’s Antoine-Louis Barye’s (1796–1875) Lion Crushing a Serpent (ca. 1832), Paul Manship’s (1885–1966) Duck Girl (ca. 1911) near the reflecting pool, and Albert Laessle’s (1877–1954) 2-foot-tall Billy goat in the Square’s SW corner—since 1919, the preferred climbing toy of the Square’s younger set, who’ve worn poor Billy’s head, horns, and spine to a golden shine. ½ hr. (Go to page, .)

Shopping. There’s an Anthropologie (1801 Walnut St.) inside the Square’s Van Rensselaer mansion. Famous scribes sign their latest works at Philly’s premier bookseller, Joseph Fox (1724 Sansom St.). The display window at Joan Shepp (1616 Walnut St.) is downright museum-quality. Even more museum-worthy: the exhibits and shop at The Print Center (1514 Latimer St.).

The Philadelphia Art Alliance. America’s oldest multi-disciplinary art center was opened in 1915 by Christine Wetherill Stevenson in her 1906 family mansion. Its exhibitions range from fashion and artistic textiles to sculpture and prints. You can also grab an excellent meal (though not a cheap one) at the in-house Rittenhouse Tavern, in an elegant dining room or al fresco on the terrace. ½ hr. 251 S. 18th St. (at Manning St.) 215/545-4302. www.philartalliance.org. Admission $5 adults, $3 students & seniors. Tues–Fri 11am–5pm, Sat–Sun noon–5pm.

Bound by Vine and Girard, Broad and the Schuylkill, Fairmount is often called the “Museum District.” And, while it’s true that the Philadelphia Museum of Art, Franklin Institute, Barnes Foundation, and Academy of Natural Sciences all exist here, so do some marvelous examples of elegant urban living. START: 19th St. & Ben Franklin Pkwy.

 

Academy of Natural Sciences. If it’s dinosaurs you seek, look no further. More than a dozen impressive specimens, including a massive T-Rex with jaws agape, are on display in the main hall. On weekends, kids can even “dig” for fossils. This natural history museum is also home to enormous moose, bison, and bears; a second floor filled with Asian and African flora and fauna; a tropical butterfly exhibit; and “Outside in” where kids can touch whatever animals happen to stop by that day. 1 hr. 19th St. & Ben Franklin Pkwy. 215/299-1000. www.ansp.org. Admission $15 adults, $13 seniors, military, students, & kids 3–12. Mon–Fri 10am–4:30pm, Sat–Sun 10am–5pm.

Free Library of Philadelphia. Stoic and splendid from its perch at the top of Logan Circle, the central branch of the public library is the best place to delve into writing about local travel and history (second floor). ½ hr. 1901 Vine Street. 215/686-5322. www.library.phila.gov. Free admission. Mon–Thurs 9am–9pm, Fri 9am–6pm, Sat 9am–5pm, Sun 1–5pm.

Barnes Foundation. Moved here (contentiously) from its original suburban home in 2012, this world-renowned museum is stuffed with some 8,000 largely Impressionist and Post-Impressionist works (Renoir, Cézanne, Matisse, Picassos, Van Gogh) fussily arranged by Barnes himself alongside antique everyday objects (think: iron hinges) and primitive sculpture. 2 hrs. 2025 Benjamin Franklin Pkwy. 215/278-7000. www.barnesfoundation.org. Reservations highly recommended. Admission $22 adults. Mon, Wed–Thurs 10am–6pm; Fri 10am–10pm; Sat–Sun 10am–8pm.

Rodin Museum. It’s the largest collection of the master’s statues outside Paris. The sculpture garden—including Thinker and Gates of Hell—is free (Go to page). ½ hr.

Green Street. Stroll this residential thoroughfare to admire beautiful 19th century townhouses. 10 min.

Eastern State Penitentiary. Smack-dab in the center of Fairmount is this frightening former prison, placed atop the nearest hill to Center City to serve as a warning to criminals. It didn’t work: Eastern State stayed in business from 1829 to 1971, and is busiest now around Halloween and Bastille Day (July 14). 1 hr. (Go to page, ).

Perelman Building. Across the street from the Philadelphia Museum of Art—which is worth a visit when you have a couple of hours (Go to page, )—this restored Art Deco office building has textile and design treasures, smaller exhibits, and a lovely cafe. 1 hr. (Go to page, ).

Joan of Arc. Napoleon III commissioned this gilded equestrian statue of the French heroine in 1874 for Paris. In 1890 the city of Philadelphia asked for a copy, but sculptor Emmanuel Frémiet (1824–1910) gave the original to them instead, sculpting a new version for Paris. (Irony: Valerie Laneau, the 15-year-old model who sat for Joan, died in a fire—though at the ripe old age of 77.) 10 min.

Water Works Interpretive Center. Behind the Art Museum and atop Fairmount Dam is a charming line of miniature classical facades marking the restored location of the country’s first municipal water delivery systems. This center aims to teach the importance of clean water via high-tech exhibits—a simulated helicopter ride takes visitors from the Delaware Bay to the head-waters of the Schuylkill River—and offers an engaging message of environmental awareness. 1 hr. 640 Waterworks Dr. 215/685-0723. www.fairmountwaterworks.com. Free admission. Tues–Sat 10am–5pm, Sun 1–5pm.

Lloyd Hall. This newest of boathouses is owned and operated by the City of Philadelphia; despite that, it serves some tasty salads, sandwiches, and pastries. There’s also a bike rental stand out front. 1 Boathouse Row (Kelly Dr.). 215/978-0900. www.cosmicfoods.com. Mon–Fri 8am–4pm, Sat–Sun 8am–6pm. $.

Boathouse Row. Although these 10 Victorianera sculling clubhouses are most famously viewed at night from the other side of the river (their lines are trimmed in tiny white lights), they’re great to peek into as you pass by. Together they form the “Schuylkill Navy,” most often used by college and high school crew teams. Frank Furness (1839–1912) designed no. 13, Undine Barge Club. ½ hr. no. 2–14 Boathouse Row, Kelly Dr.

Kelly Drive. Named for champion Olympian oarsman Jack Kelly (father of Grace Kelly [1929–1982]), this winding road has an adjacent path popular with cyclists and joggers (Go to page). Even a short walk here leads to some marvelous sculpture, including one of Kelly himself and, hiding atop a rock, Frederic Remington’s (1861–1909) Cowboy (ca. 1905). ½ hr. Kelly Dr., btw. Fairmount Ave. and Strawberry Mansion Bridge.

Lemon Hill. High above Kelly Drive is the summer home of merchant Henry Pratt. Built in the 1800s, this Federal-style “country” estate boasts an impressive trio of stacked oval rooms and serene gardens. ½ hr. Sedgeley & Lemon Hill Drive. 215/232-4337. www.lemonhill.org. Admission $5 adults, $3 seniors & students. Apr to mid-Dec Thurs–Sun 10am–4pm; Jan–Mar by appt.

West of the Schuylkill River lies Philly’s first suburb, known today as University City. Its centerpiece is the University of Pennsylvania, founded in 1740 by (who else but) Franklin and friends, which boasts the country’s first medical, law, and business schools. START: 30th St. Station, btw. 29th & 30th sts. on Market St.

 

30th Street Station. Twenty thousand Amtrak, SEPTA, and NJ Transit commuters pass daily through this circa-1933 train station, the roof of which was built to accommodate small aircraft landing. Notice the ornate Art Deco decor, the PA Railroad Workers World War II Memorial featuring the Archangel Michael, and the 1895 Spirit of Transportation relief mural in a side chamber. 15 min. 2955 Market St. 215/580-6500. Daily 24 hr.

Drexel University. This high-tech university, founded in 1891, has gone through several name changes, developed a world-class engineering program, and added contemporary architecture, including a dorm by Michael Graves at 33rd and Race sts. 1 hr. Btw. 31st & 35th sts, Chestnut & Powelton sts. www.drexel.edu.

University of Pennsylvania. One of the country’s oldest universities, “Penn” belongs both to the Ivy League and to the long list of Philadelphia establishments founded by Ben Franklin. The city campus is a mix of modern and antique, with a well-heeled and international student body. Penn’s heart is “Locust Walk,” a vibrant pedestrian thoroughfare bisecting campus, passing between ivy-covered, 19th-century Gothic buildings; student-populated College Green; giant contemporary sculpture (Claes Oldenburg’s [b. 1929] Split Button); and modern, Louis Kahn-designed (1901–1974) Fine Arts Library. Look carefully, and find Franklin (in bronze) seated on a park bench, too. ½ hr. Woodland Walk to Locust Walk (btw. 34th & 38th sts). 215/898-5000. www.upenn.edu.

University of Pennsylvania Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology. Since 1887—through 400-some archaeological and anthropological international expeditions—Penn’s major museum has collected more than 1 million ancient objects. A vast portion of them are displayed (and intelligently explained) within this massive Beaux Arts building’s 25 galleries, distributed among three floors. The Egyptian collection, considered one of the finest in the world, includes a colossal Sphinx, enormous columns, and Mummies, Secrets, and Science, a favorite among families. The third floor’s world-renowned excavation display of Sumerian jewelry and household objects from the royal tombs of Ur is not to be missed. Nearby, ogle giant cloisonné lions from Beijing’s Imperial Palace, Chinese court treasures, and tomb figures. Basically, if it’s ancient, it’s here: Mesopotamia; the Bible Lands; Mesoamerica; the ancient Mediterranean; and native peoples of the Americas, Africa, and Polynesia are also all represented. Mondays are event days (performances, concerts, special tours); Wednesday mornings often see multicultural kid-friendly performances such as dance, storytelling, drumming, or puppetry. 2 hrs. 3260 South St. (a continuation of Spruce St. past 33rd St.). 215/898-4000. www.museum.upenn.edu. Admission $15 adults, $13 seniors, $10 students with ID & children 6–17, free 5 & under. Tues–Sun 10am–5pm (to 8pm Wed).

The Palestra. If you know college hoops, you know Penn’s circa-1927 gymnasium, a.k.a. “The Cathedral of College Basketball.” More NCAA men’s b-ball games, tournaments, and visiting teams have played here than anywhere else. The tradition continues today, so when you visit, you might catch a St. Joe’s, Villanova, Temple, or (of course) Penn game. ½ hr. 215 S. 33rd St. (btw. Walnut & Spruce sts.).

White Dog Cafe. If you’re not lucky enough to pass 34th & Walnut streets weekdays 11am–3pm, when the amazing vegetarian/vegan food truck Magic Carpet is serving (www.magiccarpetfoods.com), continue on to this excellent (if pricey) Philly mainstay of eclectic, organic foods. 3420 Sansom St. 215/386-9224. www.whitedog.com. $$.

Institute of Contemporary Art. Edgy modern art is always on display at this spare, Penn-run gallery. The first museum to show Andy Warhol (1928–1987), Laurie Anderson (b. 1947), and Robert Indiana (b. 1928), the ICA’s installations have ranged from rocketry to music, and couture to comics. 1 hr. 118 S. 36th St. (at Sansom St.). 215/898-7108. www.icaphila.org. Free admission. Wed 11am–8pm, Thurs–Fri 11am–6pm, Sat–Sun 11am–5pm.

Esther M. Klein Art Gallery/Breadboard. If you have one more stop in you, visit this unique and up-and-coming gallery. EKG puts on contemporary exhibits with a science and technology bent, so that photo you’re admiring might have a bio lesson behind it. ½ hr. 3600 Market St. 215/966-6188. www.breadboardphilly.org/ekg. Free admission. Mon–Sat 9am–5pm.