SYDNEY
Sydney Opera House
Sydney Harbour Bridge
Sydney Harbour
Bondi Beach
Walking Tour: Bondi to Coogee
Sights
Activities
Tours
Shopping
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
Sydney at a Glance…
Sun-kissed, sophisticated and self-confident: Sydney is the capital to which all the other Australian cities aspire. Encircling one of the world’s most beautiful natural harbours, the city is flush with Aussie icons: the Sydney Harbour Bridge, Sydney Opera House and Bondi Beach.
But wait – there’s more! Spectacular Sydney also hosts magnificent museums and restaurants, a vivacious performing-arts scene and yet more sublime beaches. As the sun sets, hip bars and clubs light up as locals wage war against sleep… So wake up! Sydney is as good as it gets.
Sydney in Two Days
Start by exploring the Rocks and Circular Quay, then follow the harbourside walkway to the Royal Botanic Garden and the Art Gallery of NSW. Catch an evening show at the Sydney Opera House.
Next day, climb the Harbour Bridge, then soak up the scene at Bondi and take the clifftop walk to Coogee. Hoof it back to Bondi for dinner; Icebergs Dining Room has bodacious views.
Sydney in Four Days
Jump on a ferry on day three and chug across the harbour to Manly for a surf lesson, with a debriefing beer at Manly Wharf Hotel. That night, head to stylin’ Surry Hills for dinner.
On day four, dig into Sydney’s convict heritage at the Hyde Park Barracks Museum, head to Chinatown for dinner, then hit the small bars nearby.
Arriving in Sydney
Airport shuttles (from $22), taxis (from $45) and trains (from $16) head into the city from Sydney Airport, 10km south of the city centre. Interstate trains arrive at Central Station in the CBD, and long-haul buses at the adjacent Sydney Coach Terminal.
Sleeping
Your choice of neighbourhood will inform the tone of your Sydney experience. Circular Quay, the Rocks and the city centre have famous sights and myriad eating and drinking options. Surry Hills and Darlinghurst are much hipper, with fab bars and gay clubs. Glebe and Newtown are grungier and bookish, while Bondi and the beach ’burbs are backpacker-surfer central.
TOP EXPERIENCE
Sydney Opera House
Come face to face with Sydney’s number-one symbol. On a sunny day the Opera House is postcard-perfect, its curves a pinnacle of architectural expression.
Great For…
y Don’t Miss
Catch a show: take a glass of bubbles outside during interval and admire the harbour.
8Need to Know
map Google map; 
%02-9250 7111, tour bookings 02-9250 7250; www.sydneyoperahouse.com; Bennelong Point; tours adult/child $40/22; 
htours 9am-5pm; 
dCircular Quay
5Take a Break
Opera Bar has the best views in the business.
oTop Tip
Most events (more than 2400 of them annually!) sell out quickly, but partial-view tickets are often available on short notice.
Design & Construction
Danish architect Jørn Utzon’s competition-winning 1956 design is Australia’s most recognisable visual image. It’s said to have been inspired by billowing sails, orange segments, palm fronds and Mayan temples, and has been poetically likened to nuns in a rugby scrum, a typewriter stuffed with scallop shells and the sexual congress of turtles. It’s not until you get close that you realise that the seemingly solid expanse of white is actually composed of tiles – 1,056,000 self-cleaning cream-coloured Swedish tiles, to be exact.
The Opera House’s construction was itself truly operatic – so much so, it was dramatised as The Eighth Wonder, performed here by Opera Australia in 1995. The predicted four-year construction started in 1959. After a tumultuous clash of egos, delays, politicking, death and cost blow-outs, Utzon quit in disgust in 1966. The Opera House finally opened in 1973. Utzon and his son Jan were commissioned for renovations in 2004, but Utzon died in 2008 having never seen his finished masterpiece in the flesh.
Tours
One-hour guided tours depart throughout the day: you’re more likely to see everything if you go early (some spaces close for rehearsals). A highlight is the Utzon Room, the only part of the Opera House to have an interior designed by the great man himself. The two-hour 7am backstage tour ($165) includes the Green Room, stars’ dressing rooms, stage and orchestra pit.
Performances
Dance, concerts, opera and theatre are staged in the Concert Hall, Joan Sutherland Theatre, Drama Theatre and Playhouse, while more intimate and left-of-centre shows inhabit the Studio. Companies regularly performing here include:
Australian Ballet (%1300 369 741; www.australianballet.com.au)
Australian Chamber Orchestra (ACO; %02-8274 3888; www.aco.com.au)
Opera Australia (map Google map; %02-9318 8200; www.opera.org.au; Sydney Opera House; dCircular Quay)
Sydney Symphony Orchestra (map Google map; SSO; %02-8215 4600; www.sydneysymphony.com; cnr Harrington & Argyle Sts)
The free monthly What’s On brochure lists upcoming events, including info on Kids at the House, a pint-sized entertainment roster.
TOP EXPERIENCE
Sydney Harbour Bridge
Sydney’s second-most-loved construction embodies both practicality and beauty. Views from the big steel rainbow are sublime, whether you’re on foot or on a bridge climb.
Great For…
yDon’t Miss
Walking across the ‘coathanger’ north to south, with Opera House views.
8Need to Know
(map Google map) dCircular Quay, Milsons Point
5Take a Break
Try the rooftop at the Glenmore pub for a post-bridge beverage.
oTop Tip
Suffer from vertigo? The track over the arch is wide enough for you to never see straight down.
The Structure
At 134m high, 1149m long, 49m wide and 52,800 tonnes, the Sydney Harbour Bridge is the world’s largest and heaviest (but not longest) steel arch. It links the Rocks with North Sydney, crossing the harbour at a narrow point.
The two halves of chief engineer JJC Bradfield’s mighty arch were built outwards from each shore. In 1930, after seven years of merciless toil by 1400 workers, the two arches were centimetres apart when 100km/h winds set them swaying. The ‘coathanger’ hung tough, and the bridge finally opened to the public two years later.
The bridge is the centrepiece of Sydney’s major celebrations, particularly the New Year’s Eve fireworks.
BridgeClimb
Once only painters and daredevils scaled the Harbour Bridge – now anyone can do it. Make your way through the BridgeClimb (map Google map; %02-8274 7777; www.bridgeclimb.com; 3 Cumberland St; adult $263-388, child $183-278; dCircular Quay) departure lounge and the extensive training session, don your headset, an umbilical safety cord and a dandy grey jumpsuit and up you go.
Tours last 2¼ to 3½ hours – a toilet stop before climbing is a smart idea. If you’re uncertain whether your nerve or bladder will hold that long, a 90-minute sampler is available, but it only goes halfway and never reaches the summit. The priciest climbs are at dawn and sunset.
Crossing on Foot
The best way to experience the bridge is on foot – don’t expect much of a view crossing by train or car (driving south there’s a toll). Staircases access the bridge from both shores; a footpath runs along its eastern side and a cycleway along the west.
Pylon Lookout
The bridge’s hefty pylons may look as though they’re shouldering all the weight, but they’re largely decorative – right down to their granite facing. There are awesome views from the top of the Pylon Lookout (map Google map; %02-9240 1100; www.pylonlookout.com.au; Sydney Harbour Bridge; adult/child $15/10; h10am-5pm; dCircular Quay), atop the southeast pylon, 200 steps above the bridge’s footpath. Inside the pylon there are exhibits about the bridge’s construction, including an eight-minute film, which screens every 15 minutes.
TOP EXPERIENCE
Bondi Beach
Definitively Sydney, Bondi is one of the world’s great beaches: ocean and land collide, the Pacific arrives in great foaming swells and all people are equal, as democratic as sand.
Great For…
yDon’t Miss
A quick dip in the Bondi Icebergs Pool.
8Need to Know
Campbell Pde, Bondi Beach; 
g333
5Take a Break
Grab a delicious bagel from Lox, Stock & Barrel (%02-9300 0368; www.loxstockandbarrel.com.au; 140 Glenayr Ave, Bondi Beach; breakfast & lunch dishes $15-22, dinner mains $30-34; h7am-3.30pm daily plus 6-10pm Wed & Thu, 6-11pm Fri & Sat; 
W
v; g379)
oTop Tip
Swim between the red-and-yellow flags, indicating safe sections of beach patrolled by lifeguards.
A Day at the Beach
Bondi is the closest ocean beach to the city centre (8km away), has consistently good (though crowded) waves, and is great for a rough-and-tumble swim. Surfers carve up sandbar breaks at either end of the beach. Two surf clubs – Bondi and North Bondi – patrol the water between sets of red-and-yellow flags, positioned to avoid the worst rips and holes. Thousands of unfortunates have to be rescued from the surf each year (enough to make a TV show about it) – don’t become a statistic! If the sea’s angry or you have small children in tow, try the saltwater sea baths at either end of the beach.
North Bondi is a great place to learn to surf, and well-established surf school Let’s Go Surfing (%02-9365 1800; www.letsgosurfing.com.au; 128 Ramsgate Ave, North Bondi; board & wetsuit hire 1hr/2hr/day/week $25/30/50/200; h9am-5pm; g333) offers lessons catering to practically everyone. There are classes for grommets aged seven to 16 (1½ hours, $49) and adults (two hours; $110, women-only classes available), or you can book a private tutor (1½ hours, $195/284 for one/two people). Prices drop outside summer.
Prefer wheels to fins? There’s a skate ramp (Queen Elizabeth Dr, Bondi Beach; g333) at the beach’s southern end. If posing in your budgie smugglers (Speedos) isn’t having enough impact, there’s an outdoor workout area (Queen Elizabeth Dr, Bondi Beach; g333) 
F near the North Bondi Surf Club. Coincidentally (or perhaps not), this is the part of the beach where the gay guys hang out.
What’s Nearby?
Bondi PavilionNotable Building
(www.waverley.nsw.gov.au; Queen Elizabeth Dr, Bondi Beach; h9am-5pm; g333) F
Built in the Mediterranean Georgian Revival style in 1929, ‘The Pav’ is more a cultural centre than a changing shed. There’s a free art gallery upstairs, a theatre out the back and various cafes and a bar lining the ocean frontage.
Bronte BeachBeach
(Bronte Rd, Bronte; g379)
Half an hour’s drive from Bondi, Bronte Beach is a winning family-oriented beach hemmed in by sandstone cliffs and a grassy park, which lays claims to the title of the oldest surf lifesaving club in the world (1903).
Bondi Icebergs PoolSwimming
(%02-9130 4804; www.icebergs.com.au; 1 Notts Ave, Bondi Beach; adult/child $8/5.50; h6am-6.30pm Mon-Wed & Fri, from 6.30am Sat & Sun; g333)
Sydney’s most famous pool commands the best view in Bondi and has a cute little cafe. It’s a saltwater pool that’s regularly doused by the bigger breakers. There’s a more sheltered pool for kids.
Central Sydney
1Sights
2Activities, Courses & Tours
7Shopping
5Eating
6Drinking & Nightlife
3Entertainment
1Sights
1Circular Quay & the Rocks
Join the tourist pilgrimage to the Opera House and Harbour Bridge then grab a schooner at a convict-era pub in the Rocks.
Royal Botanic GardenGardens
(map Google map; %02-9231 8111; www.rbgsyd.nsw.gov.au; Mrs Macquarie’s Rd; h7am-dusk; dCircular Quay) 
SF
Southeast of the Opera House, this garden was established in 1816 and features plant life from around the world. Within the gardens are hothouses with palms and ferns, as well as the Calyx (map Google map; h10am-4pm; W; dMartin Place) S, a striking exhibition space featuring a curving glasshouse gallery with a wall of greenery and temporary plant-themed exhibitions. Grab a park map at any main entrance.
Museum of Contemporary ArtGallery
(map Google map; MCA; %02-9245 2400; www.mca.com.au; 140 George St; h10am-5pm Thu-Tue, to 9pm Wed; dCircular Quay) F
The MCA is a showcase for Australian and international contemporary art, with a rotating permanent collection and temporary exhibitions. Aboriginal art features prominently. The art-deco building has had a modern space grafted on to it, the highlight of which is the rooftop cafe with stunning views. There are free guided tours daily, with several languages available.
Rocks Discovery MuseumMuseum
(map Google map; %02-9240 8680; www.therocks.com; Kendall Lane; h10am-5pm; dCircular Quay) F
Divided into four displays – Warrane (pre-1788), Colony (1788–1820), Port (1820–1900) and Transformations (1900 to the present) – this small, excellent museum, tucked away down a Rocks laneway, digs deep into the area’s history on an artefact-rich tour. Sensitive attention is given to the Rocks’ original inhabitants, the Gadigal (Cadigal) people, and there are interesting tales of early colonial characters.
Sydney ObservatoryObservatory
(map Google map; %02-9217 0111; www.maas.museum/sydney-observatory; 1003 Upper Fort St; h10am-5pm; dCircular Quay) F
Built in the 1850s, Sydney’s copper-domed, Italianate sandstone observatory squats atop Observatory Hill (map Google map; Upper Fort St), overlooking the harbour. Inside is a collection of vintage apparatus, including Australia’s oldest working telescope (1874), as well as background on Australian astronomy and transits of Venus. Also on offer (weekends and school holidays) are child-focused tours (adult/child $10/8), including a solar telescope viewing and planetarium show. Bookings are essential for night-time stargazing sessions, which come in family-oriented (adult/child $22/17) and adult (adult/child $27/20) versions.
1City Centre
Sydney’s CBD features gracious colonial buildings scattered among the skyscrapers, with orderly parks providing breathing space. Rambunctious Haymarket and Chinatown are here too.
Art Gallery of NSWGallery
(map Google map; %1800 679 278; www.artgallery.nsw.gov.au; Art Gallery Rd; h10am-5pm Thu-Tue, to 10pm Wed; W; g441, dSt James) F
With its neoclassical Greek frontage and modern rear, this much-loved institution plays a prominent and gregarious role in Sydney society. Blockbuster international touring exhibitions arrive regularly and there’s an outstanding permanent collection of Australian art, including a substantial Indigenous section. The gallery also plays host to lectures, concerts, screenings, celebrity talks and children’s activities. A range of free guided tours is offered on different themes and in various languages; enquire at the desk or check the website.
Hyde Park Barracks MuseumMuseum
(map Google map; %02-8239 2311; www.sydneylivingmuseums.com.au; Queens Sq, Macquarie St; adult/child $24/16; h10am-5pm; dSt James)
Convict architect Francis Greenway designed this squarish, decorously Georgian structure (1819) as convict quarters. Fifty thousand men and boys sentenced to transportation passed through here in 30 years. It later became an immigration depot, a women’s asylum and a law court. These days it’s a fascinating museum, focusing on the barracks’ history and the archaeological efforts that helped reveal it. At time of research the barracks was closed until late 2019 as the exhibition was rejigged.
Sydney for Kids
Organised kids’ activities ramp up during school holidays (December/January, April, July and September); check www.sydneyforkids.com.au, www.ellaslist.com.au and www.childmags.com.au for listings.
Most kids love the Sydney Sea Life Aquarium, Wild Life Sydney Zoo and Australian National Maritime Museum at Darling Harbour, and the Powerhouse Museum in neighbouring Ultimo. Also worth investigating are the ‘Tours for Tots’ and ‘Gallery Kids Sunday Performance’ at the Art Gallery of NSW – details are on the gallery’s website.
Elsewhere, Taronga Zoo and Luna Park are sure to please. Or just take them to the beach!
Museum of SydneyMuseum
(map Google map; MoS; %02-9251 5988; www.sydneylivingmuseums.com.au; cnr Phillip & Bridge Sts; adult/child $12/8; h10am-5pm; W; dCircular Quay)
Built on the site of Sydney’s first Government House, the MoS is a fragmented, storytelling museum, which uses installations to explore the city’s history. The area’s long Indigenous past is highlighted throughout, plus there’s interesting coverage of the early days of contact between the Gadigal (Cadigal) people and the colonists. Key figures in Sydney’s planning and architecture are brought to life, while there’s a good section on the First Fleet itself, with scale models.
Sydney Tower EyeTower
(map Google map; www.sydneytowereye.com.au; Level 5, Westfield Sydney, 188 Pitt St; adult/child $29/20; h9am-9pm, last entry 8pm; dSt James)
The 309m-tall Sydney Tower (still known as Centrepoint by many Sydneysiders) offers unbeatable 360-degree views from the observation level 250m up. The visit starts with the 4D Experience, a short film giving you a bird’s-eye view of city, surf, harbour and what lies beneath the water, accompanied by mist sprays and bubbles. Then it’s up the lift to the viewing area. The Skywalk, where you can step onto glass-floored viewing platforms outside, was suspended at time of research.
ChinatownArea
(www.sydney-chinatown.info; 
jPaddy’s Markets, dTown Hall)
Dixon St is the heart of Chinatown: a narrow, shady pedestrian mall with a string of restaurants and insistent spruikers. The ornate dragon gates (paifang) at either end have fake bamboo tiles, golden Chinese calligraphy and ornamental lions to keep evil spirits at bay. Chinatown in general (though not necessarily between the dragon gates) is a fabulous eating district, which effectively extends for several blocks north and south of here, and segues into Koreatown and Thaitown to the east.
1Darling Harbour & Pyrmont
Dotted between the flyovers and fountains of Sydney’s purpose-built tourist hub are some of the city’s highest-profile attractions. In Pyrmont, on the harbour’s western shore, the Star casino complex has had an expensive do-over.
Wild Life Sydney ZooZoo
(map Google map; %1800 614 069; www.wildlifesydney.com.au; Aquarium Pier, Central Sydney; adult/child $44/31; h10am-5pm; dTown Hall)
Complementing its sister and neighbour, Sea Life, this surprisingly capacious complex houses an impressive collection of Australian native reptiles, butterflies, spiders, snakes and mammals (including koalas and a walk-through kangaroo area). The nocturnal section is particularly good, bringing out the extrovert in the quolls, potoroos, echidnas and possums. The up-close look at a sizeable saltwater croc is also memorable, while upstairs visitors queue up for cute koala selfies (from $25). Talks through the day fill you in on key species.
Kings Cross
Crowned by a huge illuminated Coca-Cola Sign (map Google map; Darlinghurst Rd, Kings Cross; dKings Cross), the ‘Cross’ has long been the home of Sydney vice. Although once home to grand estates and stylish apartments, the suburb underwent a radical change in the 1930s, when wine-soaked intellectuals, artists and ne’er-do-wells rowdily claimed the streets. The neighbourhood’s reputation was sealed during the Vietnam War, when American sailors based at nearby Garden Island flooded the Cross with a tide of drug-fuelled debauchery. The streets retain an air of seedy hedonism, although major building programs have accelerated gentrification.
It’s a 15-minute walk to the Cross from the city, or you could hop on a train. Buses 311 and 323–6 from the city also pass through here.
Sydney Sea Life AquariumAquarium
(map Google map; %1800 614 069; www.sydneyaquarium.com.au; Aquarium Pier, Central Sydney; adult/child $46/33; h10am-6pm; dTown Hall) S
As well as regular tanks, this impressive complex has large pools that you can walk through – safely enclosed in Perspex tunnels – as an intimidating array of sharks and rays pass overhead. Other highlights include a two-minute boat ride through a king and gentoo penguin enclosure, a dugong, disco-lit jellyfish, evolutionary throwbacks and the brilliant finale: the enormous Great Barrier Reef tank, which cycles you through different times of day in the life of coral, turtles, rare sharks and numerous fish.
Australian National Maritime MuseumMuseum
(MU-SEA-UM; %02-9298 3777; www.sea.museum; 2 Murray St, Pyrmont; permanent collection free, temporary exhibitions adult/child $20/12; h9.30am-5pm, to 6pm Jan; g389, jPyrmont Bay) F
Beneath a soaring roof designed by architect Philip Cox, the Maritime Museum, sails through Australia’s inextricable relationship with the sea. Exhibitions range from Indigenous canoes to surf culture, immigration to the navy. The worthwhile ‘big ticket’ (adult/child $32/20) includes entry to some of the vessels moored outside, including the atmospheric submarine HMAS Onslow and the destroyer HMAS Vampire. The high-production-value short film Action Stations sets the mood with a re-creation of a mission event from each vessel. Excellent guided tours explain each vessel’s features.
Powerhouse MuseumMuseum
(Museum of Applied Arts & Sciences/MAAS; %02-9217 0111; www.powerhousemuseum.com; 500 Harris St, Ultimo; adult/child $15/free; h10am-5pm; W; jExhibition Centre)
A short walk from Darling Harbour, this cavernous science and design museum whirs away inside the former power station for Sydney’s defunct, original tram network. The collection and temporary exhibitions cover everything from robots and life on Mars to steam trains to climate change to atoms to fashion, industrial design and avant-garde art installations. There are great options for kids of all ages but it’s equally intriguing for adults. Grab a map of the museum once you’re inside. Disabled access is good.
Sydney Fish MarketMarket
(%02-9004 1108; www.sydneyfishmarket.com.au; Bank St, Pyrmont; h7am-4pm Mon-Thu, to 5pm Fri-Sun; jFish Market) This piscatorial precinct on Blackwattle Bay shifts around 15 million kilograms of seafood annually, and has retail outlets, restaurants, sushi and oyster bars, delis and a highly regarded cooking school (%02-9004 1111; www.sydneyfishmarket.com.au/seafood-school; Sydney Fish Market, Pyrmont Bridge Rd, Pyrmont; 2/4hr courses $90/165; jFish Market).
Chefs, locals and overfed seagulls haggle over mud crabs, Balmain bugs, lobsters and salmon at the daily fish auction, which kicks off at 5.30am weekdays. Check it out on a behind-the-scenes tour (adult/child $45/20). A flash new market is being built a little further west, due to open in 2023.
1Surry Hills & Darlinghurst
Surry Hills is liberally scattered with corner pubs, fantastic eateries and quirky cafes and bars. Neighbouring Darlinghurst is synonymous with Sydney’s gay community: the lower end of Oxford St is home to most of the city’s gay bars.
Australian MuseumMuseum
(map Google map; %02-9320 6000; www.australianmuseum.net.au; 6 College St, Darlinghurst; adult/child $15/free; h9.30am-5pm; W; dMuseum)
Under ongoing modernisation, this museum, established just 40 years after the First Fleet dropped anchor, is brilliant. A standout is the section covering Aboriginal history and spirituality, from Dreaming stories to videos of the Freedom Rides of the 1960s. The elegant Long Gallery focuses on 100 objects (from a platypus-skin rug to an Egyptian death-boat to the ‘Bone Ranger’) and 100 key Australians. The excellent dinosaur gallery features enormous Jobaria as well as local bruisers like Muttaburrasaurus.
Brett Whiteley StudioGallery
(%02-9225 1881; www.artgallery.nsw.gov.au/brett-whiteley-studio; 2 Raper St, Surry Hills; h10am-4pm Fri-Sun; jSurry Hills, dCentral) F
Acclaimed local artist Brett Whiteley (1939–1992) lived fast and without restraint. His hard-to-find studio (look for the signs on Devonshire St) has been preserved as a gallery for some of his best work. Pride of place goes to his astonishing Alchemy, a giant multi-panel extravaganza that could absorb you for hours with its broad themes, intricate details and humorous asides. The studio room upstairs also gives great insight into the character of this masterful draughtsman and off-the-wall genius.
1Paddington & Centennial Park
Paddington, aka ‘Paddo’, is an upmarket residential suburb of restored Victorian-era terrace houses and jacaranda-lined streets. Visit on a Saturday to see the Paddington Markets.
East of Paddington is the 220-hectare Centennial Park (%02-9339 6699; www.centennialparklands.com.au; Oxford St; hgates sunrise-sunset; jMoore Park, dBondi Junction), which has running, cycling, skating and horse-riding tracks, duck ponds, BBQ sites and sports pitches.
1Manly & the North Shore
With both a harbour side and a glorious ocean beach, Manly is Sydney’s only ferry destination with surf. It’s worth visiting for the ferry ride alone.
Still on the North Shore, just east of the Harbour Bridge is stately Kirribilli, home to Admiralty House (www.gg.gov.au; Kirribilli Ave; dMilsons Point) and Kirribilli House (Kirribilli Ave; dMilsons Point), the Sydney residences of the governor-general and prime minister respectively.
Manly BeachBeach
(
fManly)
Sydney’s second most famous beach (after Bondi, of course) is a magnificent strand that stretches for nearly two golden kilometres, lined by Norfolk Island pines and midrise apartment blocks. The southern end of the beach, nearest the Corso, is known as South Steyne, with North Steyne in the centre and Queenscliff at the northern end; each has its own surf lifesaving club.
Taronga Zoo SydneyZoo
(%02-9969 2777; www.taronga.org.au; Bradleys Head Rd, Mosman; adult/child $47/27; h9.30am-5pm Sep-Apr, to 4.30pm May-Aug; W; gM30, fTaronga Zoo) S
A 12-minute ferry ride from Circular Quay, this bushy harbour hillside is full of kangaroos, koalas and similarly hirsute Australians, plus numerous imported guests. The zoo’s critters have million-dollar harbour views, but seem blissfully unaware of the privilege. Encouragingly, Taronga sets benchmarks in animal care and welfare. Highlights include the nocturnal platypus habitat, the Great Southern Oceans section and the Asian elephant display. Feedings and encounters happen throughout the day, while in summer, twilight concerts jazz things up (see www.twilightattaronga.org.au).
North HeadNational Park
(%1300 072 757; www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au; North Head Scenic Dr, Manly; hsunrise-sunset; g135) F
About 3km south of central Manly, spectacular North Head offers dramatic cliffs, lookouts, secluded beaches, pretty paths through the native scrub and sweeping views of the ocean, the harbour and the city. It’s great to explore by bike or on foot. Grab a map and plot your own path through the headland, which takes in former military barracks, WWII gun emplacements, a quarantine cemetery and a memorial walk commemorating Australia’s military. At the tip, Fairfax Lookouts offer dramatic clifftop perspectives.
Weekend Markets
Glebe Markets (www.glebemarkets.com.au; Glebe Public School, cnr Glebe Point Rd & Derby Pl; h10am-4pm Sat; g431, 433, jGlebe) Inner-city hippies beat a hazy course to this crowded Saturday market. Once massaged, fuelled on lentil burgers and swathed in funky retro gear, they retreat to the lawns, pass the peace pipe and chill out to African drums.
Bondi Markets (www.bondimarkets.com.au; Bondi Beach Public School, Campbell Pde, Bondi Beach; h10am-4pm Sun; g333) While the kids are at the beach on Sunday while their school fills up with Bondi groovers rummaging through funky secondhand clothes and books, hippy jewellery, aromatherapy oils, candles and vinyl records.
Paddington Markets (%02-9331 2923; www.paddingtonmarkets.com.au; 395 Oxford St; h10am-4pm Sat; g333, 352, 440, M40) Join the throngs for a foot massage, a tarot reading or a funky clubbing shirt. Sydney’s most well-attended weekend market coughs up everything from vintage clothes and hip fashions to jewellery, books, massage and palmistry.
The Rocks Market (map Google map; www.therocks.com/markets; George St; h9am-3pm Fri, 10am-5pm Sat & Sun; dCircular Quay) The 150 stalls here are a little on the tacky side (fossils, opals, faux Aboriginal art etc), but the quality is reasonably high and there are a few gems. The atmosphere is busy, and pubs are nearby for a quick beer.
Luna ParkAmusement Park
(%02-9922 6644; www.lunaparksydney.com; 1 Olympic Dr, Milsons Point; h11am-4pm Mon-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat, 10am-6pm Sun; fMilsons Point, dMilsons Point) F
A sinister chip-toothed clown face (50 times life-sized) forms the entrance to this old-fashioned amusement park overlooking Sydney Harbour. It’s one of several 1930s features, including the Coney Island funhouse, a pretty carousel and the nausea-inducing Rotor. You can purchase a two-ride pass ($22), or buy a height-based unlimited-ride pass (adults $55, kids $25 to $45; cheaper if purchased online). Hours are complex, and extended during school and public holidays. It also functions as a concert venue.
2Activities
Surf spots on the South Shore include Bondi, Tamarama, Coogee, Maroubra and Cronulla. The North Shore is home to a dozen surf beaches between Manly and Palm Beach, including Curl Curl, Dee Why, Narrabeen, Mona Vale and Newport. For updates on what’s breaking where, see www.coastalwatch.com or www.magicseaweed.com.
There are 100-plus public swimming pools in Sydney, and many beaches have protected rock pools. Harbour beaches offer sheltered and shark-netted swimming.
Manly Scenic WalkwayWalking
(www.manly.nsw.gov.au; fManly)
This marvellous coastal walk has two major components: the 10km western stretch between Manly and Spit Bridge, and the 9.5km eastern loop around North Head. Either download a map or pick one up from the information centre near the wharf.
Dive Centre BondiDiving
(%02-9369 3855; www.divebondi.com.au; 198 Bondi Rd, Bondi; 2 guided dives incl equipment from shore/boat $155/195, PADI Open Water courses $495; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, from 8am Sat & Sun; g333)
Friendly and professional, this centre offers guided dives from shore or boat as well as equipment hire. It runs PADI Open Water courses as well as other certifications.
Manly Surf SchoolSurfing
(%02-9932 7000; www.manlysurfschool.com; North Steyne Surf Club, Manly; surf lessons adult/child $70/60, surf safari $120; g136, 139, fManly)
Reliable and well established, this outfit offers two-hour surf lessons year-round, as well as private tuition. It’s a fair bit cheaper if you book a multi-class package. You can also book classes at other beaches. They run good-value surf safaris up to the Northern Beaches, including two lessons, lunch, gear and city pick-ups; a fun day out.
Andrew (Boy) Charlton PoolSwimming
(%02-9358 6686; www.abcpool.org; 1c Mrs Macquaries Rd; adult/child $6.60/5; h6am-7pm Sep & Apr, to 8pm Oct-Mar; g441)
One of Sydney’s best saltwater pools – smack-bang next to the harbour – is a magnet for serious lap swimmers, who rule the roost (so maintain your lane). There’s a cafe here looking across at the Garden Island base, great for some naval gazing. Wheelchair-accessible. Yoga classes (www.sydneyyogacollective.com; per class $12) are also available here, as well as other activities.
TTours
Sydney Architecture WalksWalking
(%0403 888 390; www.sydneyarchitecture.org; adult walks $49-59, cycle not incl bike $90)
These bright young archi-buffs run two 3½-hour cycling tours and six themed two-to-three-hour walking tours. There’s an excellent focus on explaining modern architectural principles and urban design. It’s cheaper if you book in advance.
Bonza Bike ToursCycling
(map Google map; %02-9247 8800; www.bonzabiketours.com; 30 Harrington St; tours from $99; hoffice 9am-5pm; dCircular Quay)
These bike boffins run a 2½-hour Sydney Highlights tour (adult/child $99/79) and a four-hour Sydney Classic tour ($129/99). Other tours include the Harbour Bridge and Manly. It also hires out bikes ($15/30/40/130 per hour/half-day/day/week).
Captain Cook CruisesCruise
(map Google map; %02-9206 1111; www.captaincook.com.au; Wharf 6, Circular Quay; from $35; dCircular Quay)
As well as sightseeing ($35 to $55), lunch and dinner cruises, and whale watching, this crew offers an aquatic version of a hop-on, hop-off bus tour, with two main routes that include Watsons Bay, Taronga Zoo, Fort Denison, Shark Island and Manly. It costs $49/27 per adult/child for two days and includes some commentary. Departures from Circular Quay, Darling Harbour and Barangaroo.
Sydney Harbour KayaksKayaking
(%02-9960 4389; www.sydneyharbourkayaks.com.au; Smiths Boat Shed, 81 Parriwi Rd, Mosman; kayaks/SUP per hour from $20/25, ecotours $125; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, from 7.30am Sat & Sun, closed Mon & Tue Jun-Sep; gE66, E68, E71, E75, 76, 77)
Rents kayaks and stand-up paddleboards (SUPs), and leads excellent four-hour ecotours from near the Spit Bridge.
I’m Free Walking ToursWalking
(map Google map; %0405 515 654; www.imfree.com.au; 483 George St; walking tour by donation; h10.30am & 2.30pm; dTown Hall)
Departing twice daily from the square off George St, between the Town Hall and St Andrew’s Cathedral (no bookings taken – just show up), these three-hour tours are nominally free but are run by enthusiastic young guides for tips. The route takes in the Rocks, Circular Quay, Martin Place, Pitt St and Hyde Park. Group sizes can be quite large.
They also have a 90-minute Rocks tour, departing at 6pm outside Cadman’s Cottage (map Google map; %02-9337 5511; www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au; 110 George St; dCircular Quay) F.
7Shopping
Queen Victoria BuildingShopping Centre
(map Google map; QVB; %02-9265 6800; www.qvb.com.au; 455 George St; h9am-6pm Mon-Wed, Fri & Sat, to 9pm Thu, 11am-5pm Sun; W; dTown Hall)
The magnificent QVB takes up a whole block and boasts nearly 200 shops on five levels. It’s a High Victorian neo-Gothic masterpiece – without doubt Sydney’s most beautiful shopping centre.
Strand ArcadeShopping Centre
(map Google map; %02-9265 6800; www.strandarcade.com.au; 412 George St; h9am-5.30pm Mon-Wed & Fri, to 9pm Thu, to 4pm Sat, 11am-4pm Sun; dTown Hall)
Constructed in 1891, the beautiful Strand rivals the QVB in the ornateness stakes. The three floors of designer fashions, Australiana and old-world coffee shops will make your shortcut through here considerably longer. Some of the top Australian designers and other iconic brands have stores here – chocolatiers included! Aesop, Haighs, Leona Edmiston, Dinosaur Designs and more are all present.
Australian Wine CentreWine
(map Google map; %02-9247 2755; www.australianwinecentre.com; 42 Pitt St; h9.30am-8pm Mon-Thu & Sat, to 9pm Fri, 10am-7pm Sun; dCircular Quay)
This store, with multilingual staff, is packed with quality Australian wine, beer and spirits. Smaller producers are well represented, along with a staggering range of prestigious Penfolds Grange wines and other bottle-aged gems. Service is excellent and international shipping can be arranged.
David JonesDepartment Store
(map Google map; %02-9266 5544; www.davidjones.com.au; 86-108 Castlereagh St; h9.30am-7pm Sun-Wed, to 9pm Thu & Fri, from 9am Sat; dSt James)
DJs is Sydney’s premier department store, with high-quality clothing and highbrow food court. A revamp has added a flashy new designer shoe floor on level 7, while a new kids’ area and rooftop Champagne bar were also in the works at the time of research. David Jones also takes up a sizeable chunk of Westfield Bondi Junction (%02-9947 8000; www.westfield.com.au; 500 Oxford St, Bondi Junction; h9.30am-6pm Mon-Wed & Sat, to 9pm Thu, to 7pm Fri, from 10am Sun; W; dBondi Junction).
Abbey’sBooks
(map Google map; %02-9264 3111; www.abbeys.com.au; 131 York St; h8.30am-6pm Mon-Wed & Fri, to 8pm Thu, 9am-5pm Sat, 10am-5pm Sun; dTown Hall)
Easily central Sydney’s best bookshop, Abbey’s has many strengths. It’s good on social sciences and has excellent resources for language learning, including a great selection of foreign films on DVD. There’s also a big sci-fi and fantasy section. Staff are great and generally very experienced.
ArteryArt
(map Google map; %02-9380 8234; www.artery.com.au; 221 Darlinghurst Rd, Darlinghurst; h10am-5pm; dKings Cross) S
Step into a world of mesmerising dots and swirls at this small gallery devoted to Aboriginal art. Artery’s motto is ‘ethical, contemporary, affordable’, and while large canvases by more established artists cost in the thousands, small, unstretched canvases start at around $35. There’s also a good range of giftware as well as an offbeat sideline in preserved insects.
Gannon House GalleryArt
(map Google map; %02-9251 4474; www.gannonhousegallery.com; 45 Argyle St; h10am-6pm; dCircular Quay)
Specialising in contemporary Australian and Aboriginal art, Gannon House purchases works directly from artists and Aboriginal communities. You’ll find the work of prominent artists such as Gloria Petyarre here, alongside lesser-known names. There are always some striking and wonderful pieces.
5Eating
5Circular Quay & the Rocks
Fine Food StoreCafe$
(map Google map; %02-9252 1196; www.finefoodstore.com; cnr Mill & Kendall Lanes; light meals $9-16; h7am-4pm Mon-Sat, from 7.30am Sun; Wv; dCircular Quay)
The Rocks sometimes seems all pubs, so it’s a delight to find this contemporary cafe that works for a sightseeing stopover or a better, cheaper breakfast than your hotel. Staff are genuinely welcoming, make very respectable coffee and offer delicious panini, sandwiches and other breakfast and lunch fare. The outside tables on this narrow lane are the spot to be.
QuayModern Australian$$$
(map Google map; %02-9251 5600; www.quay.com.au; Level 3, Overseas Passenger Terminal, Circular Quay West; 6/10 course degustation $210/275; h6-9.30pm Mon-Thu, noon-1.30pm & 6-9.30pm Fri-Sun; dCircular Quay)
What many consider to be Sydney’s best restaurant matches a peerless bridge view with brilliant food. Chef Peter Gilmore never rests on his laurels, consistently delivering exquisitely crafted, adventurous cuisine. A shake-up of decor and menu in 2018 has left it better than ever. Book online well in advance.
5City Centre
Mr WongChinese$$
(map Google map; %02-9114 7317; www.merivale.com.au/mrwong; 3 Bridge Lane; mains $24-44; hlunch noon-3pm Mon-Fri, 10.30am-3pm Sat & Sun, dinner 5.30-11pm Mon-Wed, to midnight Thu-Sat, to 10pm Sun; Wv; dWynyard)
Classy but comfortable in an attractive, low-lit space on a CBD laneway, this has exposed-brick colonial warehouse chic and a huge team of staff and hanging ducks in the open kitchen. Lunchtime dim sum offerings bristle with flavour and the salad offerings are mouth-freshening sensations. Mains such as crispy pork hock are sinfully sticky, while Peking duck rolls are legendary.
Restaurant HubertFrench$$
(map Google map; %02-9232 0881; www.restauranthubert.com; 15 Bligh St; mains $20-50; h4pm-1am Mon-Sat, plus noon-3pm Thu & Fri; dMartin Place)
The memorable descent into the sexy old-time ambience plunges you straight from suity Sydney into a 1930s movie. Delicious French fare comes in old-fashioned portions – think terrine, black pudding or duck, plus a few more avant-garde creations. Candlelit tables and a long whisky-backed counter provide seating. No bookings for small groups, so wait it out in the bar area.
Rockpool Bar & GrillSteak$$$
(map Google map; %02-8099 7077; www.rockpoolbarandgrill.com.au; 66 Hunter St; mains $37-68, bar mains $22-35; hnoon-3pm & 6-11pm Mon-Fri, 5.30-11pm Sat, 5.30-10pm Sun; dMartin Place)
You’ll feel like a 1930s Manhattan stockbroker when you dine at this sleek operation in the fabulous art-deco City Mutual Building. The bar is famous for its dry-aged, full-blood Wagyu burger (make sure you order a side of the hand-cut fat chips), but carnivores will be equally enamoured with the succulent steaks, stews and fish dishes served in the grill.
Tetsuya’sFrench, Japanese$$$
(%02-9267 2900; www.tetsuyas.com; 529 Kent St; degustation menu $240, matching wines from $125; h5.30-10pm Tue-Fri, noon-3pm & 6.30-10pm Sat; dTown Hall)
Concealed in a villa behind a historic cottage amid the high-rises, this extraordinary restaurant is for those seeking a culinary journey rather than a simple stuffed belly. Settle in for 10-plus courses of French- and Japanese-inflected food from the genius of legendary Sydney chef Tetsuya Wakuda. It’s all great, but the seafood is sublime. Great wine list. Book well ahead.
5Inner West
Grounds of AlexandriaCafe$$
(%02-9699 2225; www.thegrounds.com.au; 2 Huntley St, Alexandria; lunch dishes $19-25; h7am-4pm Mon-Fri, from 7.30am Sat & Sun; W; g348, dGreen Square) S
A quite extra-ordinary Alexandria spot, the Grounds goes well beyond converted industrial chic. This former pie factory sports futuristic coffee technology, tip-top baking and delicious food, but it’s the enormous garden setting that has the biggest impact: chickens, a waste-chewing pig and greenery all around. It’s a real sight to behold. You won’t behold it alone though…prepare to queue.
Also here is the Potting Shed (%02-9699 2225; http://thegrounds.com.au; mains $24-37; h11.30am-9pm Mon-Thu, to 10pm Fri, 11am-10pm Sat, to 9pm Sun; Wv; g348, dGreen Square), another riot of plants open for evening drinks and food.
Boathouse on Blackwattle BaySeafood$$$
(%02-9518 9011; www.boathouse.net.au; 123 Ferry Rd, Glebe; mains $40-48; h6-10pm Tue-Thu, noon-2.45pm & 6-11pm Fri-Sun; jGlebe)
The best restaurant in Glebe, and one of the best seafood restaurants in Sydney. Offerings range from a selection of oysters so fresh you’d think you shucked them yourself, to a snapper pie that’ll go straight to the top of your favourite-dish list. The views over the bay and Anzac Bridge are stunning. Arrive by water taxi for maximum effect.
EsterModern Australian$$$
(%02-8068 8279; www.ester-restaurant.com.au; 46/52 Meagher St, Chippendale; share plates $18-50; h6-11pm Mon-Fri, from noon Sat, noon-4.30pm Sun; v; dCentral)
Ester exemplifies Sydney’s contemporary dining scene: informal but not sloppy; innovative without being overly gimmicky; hip, but never try-hard. The menu specialises in well-sourced Australian fish, molluscs and crustaceans prepared with a variety of global influences at play, but don’t miss the blood-sausage sandwich either, or the excellent vegetarian creations. Desserts are well worth leaving room for too.
5Surry Hills & Darlinghurst
Bourke Street BakeryBakery$
(%02-9699 1011; www.bourkestreetbakery.com.au; 633 Bourke St, Surry Hills; items $5-14; h7am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun; v; g301, jSurry Hills, dCentral)
Queuing outside this teensy bakery is an essential Surry Hills experience. It sells a tempting selection of pastries, cakes, bread and sandwiches, along with near-legendary sausage rolls. There are a couple of spots to sit inside, but on a fine day you’re better off on the street. Offshoots around town offer a bit more space.
Le MondeCafe$
(%02-9211 3568; www.lemondecafe.com.au; 83 Foveaux St, Surry Hills; dishes $10-18; h6.30am-4pm Mon-Fri, 7.30am-2pm Sat; Wv; dCentral)
Some of Sydney’s best breakfasts are served between the demure dark wooden walls of this small street-side cafe. Top-notch coffee and a terrific selection of tea will gear you up to face the world, while dishes such as matcha hotcakes, truffled poached eggs, brilliant sandwiches or morning muffin specials make it worth walking up the hill for.
Dead RingerModern Australian$$
(map Google map; %02-9331 3560; www.deadringer.wtf; 413 Bourke St, Surry Hills; share plates $17-34; h5-11pm Mon & Tue, from 4pm Wed, 4pm-midnight Thu & Fri, 10am-midnight Sat, 11am-11pm Sun; Wv; g333, 440)
This charcoal-fronted terrace is a laid-back haven of quality eating and drinking. Barstool it or grab an outdoor table and graze on the short, brilliant menu that changes slightly daily and runs from bar snacks through tapas to mains. Though well presented, the food’s all about flavour combinations rather than airy artistry. There’s always something interesting to accompany by the glass.
MartaItalian$$
(%02-9361 6641; www.marta.com.au; 30 McLachlan Ave, Darlinghurst; mains $22-38; h5.30-10pm Tue-Thu, to 10.30pm Fri & Sat, 9am-9pm Sun; dKings Cross)
Set back from a showroom on its own sunny square – or should that be piazza? – this seductive spot focuses on traditional recipes from Rome and its region. Fairly priced and richly flavoured plates blend vernacular tradition with modern techniques to good effect. Daily specials are hearty favourites; prepare your palate with a drink of something sharp at the gleaming bar.
FiredoorGrill$$$
(%02-8204 0800; www.firedoor.com.au; 33 Mary St, Surry Hills; share plates $24-54, degustation $90; h5.30-11pm Tue, Wed & Sat, noon-3pm & 5.30-11pm Thu & Fri; dCentral)
All the dishes in this moodily attractive sunken space are produced over a blazing fire, chef Lennox Hastie matching different woods to the flavours of meat, seafood and vegetables to create extraordinary dishes with huge depth of flavour. The intriguing menu changes on a daily basis. Look out for the fleshy pipis (saltwater clams) with a garlicky sauce that’s perfect for mopping.
5Bondi
Icebergs Dining RoomItalian$$$
(%02-9365 9000; www.idrb.com; 1 Notts Ave, Bondi Beach; mains $48-56; hnoon-3pm & 6.30-11pm, from 10am Sun; g333)
Poised above the famous swimming pool, Icebergs’ views sweep across the Bondi Beach arc to the sea. Inside, bow-tied waiters deliver fresh, sustainably sourced seafood and steaks cooked with elan. There’s also an elegant cocktail bar. In the same building, the Icebergs club has a bistro and bar with simpler, cheaper fare.
5Kings Cross, Potts Point & Woolloomooloo
Cho Cho SanJapanese$$
(map Google map; %02-9331 6601; www.chochosan.com.au; 73 Macleay St, Potts Point; dishes $12-33; h5.30-11pm Mon-Thu, from noon Fri-Sun; g311, dKings Cross)
Glide through the shiny brass sliding door and take a seat at the communal table that runs the length of this stylish Japanese restaurant, all polished concrete and blonde wood. The food is just as artful as the surrounds, with tasty izakaya-style bites emanating from both the raw bar and the hibachi grill. There’s a good sake selection, too.
Fratelli ParadisoItalian$$
(map Google map; %02-9357 1744; www.fratelliparadiso.com; 12-16 Challis Ave, Potts Point; breakfast $12-17, mains $25-39; h7am-11pm Mon-Sat, to 10pm Sun; g311, dKings Cross)
This underlit trattoria has them queuing at the door (especially on weekends). The intimate room showcases seasonal Italian dishes cooked with Mediterranean zing. Lots of busy black-clad waiters, lots of Italian chatter, lots of oversized sunglasses. The street-side tables are the place to be, whether for morning espresso or night-time feasting. No bookings.
Sydney’s Celebrity Chefs
Bill Granger Author of 10 cookbooks; owner of the legendary bills (map Google map; %02-9360 9631; www.bills.com.au; 433 Liverpool St, Darlinghurst; mains $15-29; h7.30am-3pm Mon-Sat, 8am-3pm Sun; Wv; dKings Cross).
Luke Nguyen Presents TV programs, pens cookbooks and plates up Vietnamese delights at Red Lantern on Riley (map Google map; %02-9698 4355; www.redlantern.com.au; 60 Riley St, Darlinghurst; mains $38-45; h6-10pm Sun-Thu, noon-3pm & 6-11pm Fri, 6-11pm Sat; v; dMuseum) S.
Matt Moran Boasting Aria (map Google map; %02-9240 2255; www.ariasydney.com.au; 1 Macquarie St; 2-/3-/4-course dinner $115/145/170, degustation $205; hnoon-2.15pm & 5.30-10.30pm Mon-Fri, noon-1.30pm & 5-11pm Sat, noon-1.45pm & 5.30-10pm Sun; dCircular Quay), Chiswick and Opera Bar, Matt graces the TV screen on Master-Chef Australia.
Neil Perry The city’s original rock-star chef (with ponytail) heads up Rockpool Bar & Grill and Spice Temple (map Google map; %02-8078 1888; www.rockpool.com; 10 Bligh St; dishes $39-59; hnoon-3pm & 6-10.30pm Mon-Wed, noon-3pm & 6-11pm Thu & Fri, 5.30-11pm Sat, 5.30-10pm Sun; Wv; dMartin Place).
FarmhouseModern Australian$$
(map Google map; %0448 413 791; www.farmhousekingscross.com.au; 4/40 Bayswater Rd, Kings Cross; set menu $60; hsittings 6.30pm & 8.30pm Wed-Sat, 2pm & 6.30pm Sun; dKings Cross)
Occupying a space between restaurant and supper club, this narrow sliver of a place has a tiny kitchen and charming hospitality. Diners sit at one long table and eat a set menu that features uncomplicated, delicious dishes from high-quality produce. There are good wines and a buzzy, fun atmosphere. Prebooking is essential.
YellowVegetarian$$$
(map Google map; %02-9332 2344; www.yellowsydney.com.au; 57 Macleay St, Potts Point; 5-/7-course degustation menu $80/100; h5-11pm Mon-Fri, 11am-2.30pm & 5-11pm Sat & Sun; v; g311, dKings Cross)
This sunflower-yellow former artists’ residence is now a top-notch contemporary vegetarian restaurant. Dishes are prepared with real panache, and excellent flavour combinations are present throughout. The tasting menus, which can be vegan, take the Sydney meat-free scene to new levels and the service is happily not too formal. Weekend brunch is also a highlight, as is the wine list.
5Paddington
Paddington AlimentariDeli$
(%02-9358 2142; www.facebook.com/paddington.alimentari; 2 Hopetoun St; light meals $5-15; h7am-5pm Mon-Fri, 7.30am-4pm Sat; g333, 352, 440, M40)
Tucked away at the bottom of the William St boutiques, this is almost the soul of Paddington distilled into one friendly cafe-deli. Super coffee, tempting Italian products and a communal feel as well-heeled locals rub shoulders in friendly hedonism; quite a place.
Saint PeterSeafood$$
(%02-8937 2530; www.saintpeter.com.au; 362 Oxford St, Paddington; mains $28-46; h5.30-10pm Tue-Thu, noon-2pm & 5.30-10pm Fri, 11am-3pm & 5.30-10pm Sat & Sun; g333, 352, 440, M40)
Fish has sometimes been left behind in the race for nose-to-tailery, pulled meat and burgerisation of any land-based beast. It reclaims its deserved pre-eminence here, with an inspiring, innovative changing menu. Aged cuts of fish, impeccably sourced sustainable stock, and avant-garde creations makes this Sydney’s finny tribe trailblazer. Check out their fish butchery a few doors up too.
ChiswickModern Australian$$
(%02-8388 8688; www.chiswickwoollahra.com.au; 65 Ocean St, Woollahra; mains $32-42; hnoon-2.30pm & 6-10pm Mon-Thu, noon-3pm & 5.30-10pm Fri & Sat, noon-9pm Sun; Wv; g389) S
Though owned by celebrity chef Matt Moran, the real star of this show here is the kitchen garden that dictates what’s on the menu. Meat from the Moran family farm and local seafood feature prominently too. The setting, an airy, light pavilion in a small park, is an especially lovely one and service strikes an agreeably casual note.
6Drinking & Nightlife
6Circular Quay & the Rocks
Opera BarBar
(map Google map; %02-8587 5900; www.operabar.com.au; lower concourse, Sydney Opera House; h10.30am-midnight Mon-Thu, to 1am Fri, 9am-1am Sat, to midnight Sun; W; dCircular Quay)
Right on the harbour with the Opera House on one side and the bridge on the other, this perfectly positioned terrace manages a very Sydney marriage of the laid-back and the sophisticated. It’s an iconic spot for visitors and locals alike. There’s live music or DJs most nights and really excellent food, running from oysters to fabulous steaks and fish.
Glenmore HotelPub
(map Google map; %02-9247 4794; www.theglenmore.com.au; 96 Cumberland St; h11am-midnight Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat; W; dCircular Quay)
Downstairs it’s a predictably nice old Rocks pub with great outdoor seating, but head to the rooftop and the views are beyond fabulous: Opera House (after the cruise ship leaves), harbour and city skyline all present and accounted for. It gets crammed up here on the weekends, with DJs and plenty of wine by the glass. The food’s decent too.
Lord Nelson Brewery HotelBrewery
(map Google map; %02-9251 4044; www.lordnelsonbrewery.com; 19 Kent St; h11am-11pm Mon-Sat, noon-10pm Sun; W; g311, dCircular Quay)
This atmospheric boozer is one of three claiming to be Sydney’s oldest (all using slightly different criteria). The on-site brewery cooks up its own natural ales; a pint of dark, stouty Nelson’s Blood is a fine way to partake. Pub food downstairs is tasty and solid; the upstairs brasserie is an attractive space doing fancier food, including good seafood choices.
Harts PubPub
(map Google map; %02-9251 6030; www.hartspub.com; cnr Essex & Gloucester Sts; hnoon-11pm Mon-Wed, 11.30am-midnight Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat, noon-10pm Sun; W; dCircular Quay)
Pouring an excellent range of Sydney craft beers in a quiet corner near the beginning of the Rocks, this historical building has real character. The dishes are quality pub food, with generous salads, fish and steaks. At weekends, this is enjoyably quieter than other Rocks boozers. There are a few pleasant outdoor tables with the Shangri-La hotel looming above.
6City Centre
Uncle Ming’sCocktail Bar
(map Google map; www.unclemings.com.au; 55 York St; hnoon-midnight Mon-Thu, to 1am Fri, from 4pm Sat; dWynyard)
We love the dark romantic opium-den atmosphere of this small bar secreted away in a basement by a shirt shop. It’s an atmospheric spot for anything from a quick beer before jumping on a train to a leisurely exploration of the cocktail menu. It also does an excellent line in dumplings and, usually, has very welcoming bar staff.
Frankie’s PizzaBar
(map Google map; www.frankiespizzabytheslice.com; 50 Hunter St; h4pm-3am Sat-Thu, from noon Fri; W; dMartin Place)
Descend the stairs and you’ll think you’re in a 1970s pizzeria, complete with plastic grapevines, snapshots covering the walls and tasty pizza slices ($6). But open the nondescript door in the corner and an indie wonderland reveals itself. Bands play here at least four nights a week (join them on Tuesdays for live karaoke) and there’s another bar hidden below.
Slip Inn & Chinese LaundryClub
(map Google map; %02-9114 7327; www.merivale.com.au/chineselaundry; 111 Sussex St; club $28-43; h11am-1am Mon-Thu, to 3am Fri, 2pm-3am Sat, Chinese Laundry 9pm-3.30am Fri & Sat; W; dWynyard)
Slip in to this cheerfully colourful atmospheric warren on the edge of Darling Harbour and bump hips with the kids. There are bars, pool tables, a pleasantly packed beer garden and Mexican food, courtesy of El Loco. On Friday and Saturday nights the bass cranks up at the long-running attached Chinese Laundry nightclub, accessed via Slip St below.
Swanky City Bars
Ivy (map Google map; %02-9240 3000; www.merivale.com/ivy; Level 1, 330 George St; hnoon-midnight Mon-Fri, to 3.30am Sat, plus pool party 1pm-midnight Sun Oct-Mar; W; dWynyard) Hidden down a lane off George St, Ivy is a fashionable complex of bars, restaurants – and even a swimming pool. It’s also Sydney’s most hyped venue; expect lengthy queues of suburban kids teetering on unfeasibly high heels on a Saturday for Sydney’s hottest club night, run by Ministry of Sound.
Marble Bar (map Google map; %02-9266 2000; www.marblebarsydney.com.au; Basement, 488 George St; h3.30pm-midnight Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; W; dTown Hall) Built for a staggering £32,000 in 1893 as part of the Adams Hotel on Pitt St, this ornate underground bar is one of the best places in town for putting on the Ritz (even if this is the Hilton). The over-the-top late-Victorian decor is staggering, and the atmosphere is great. Musos play anything from jazz to funk, Thursday to Saturday.
O Bar (map Google map; %02-9247 9777; www.obardining.com.au; Level 47, Australia Square, 264 George St; h5pm-midnight Sat-Thu, noon-midnight Fri; W; dWynyard) The cocktails at this 47th-floor revolving bar aren’t cheap, but they’re still substantially cheaper than admission to Sydney Tower – and it’s considerably more glamorous. The views are truly wonderful; get there for sunset. There’s also smart food on offer.
6Inner West
Archie Rose Distilling Co.Bar
(%02-8458 2300; www.archierose.com.au; 85 Dunning Ave, Rosebery; hnoon-10pm Sun & Mon, to midnight Tue-Sat; W; g343, dGreen Square)
This distillery has made quite an impact with its excellent gins – where better to try them than the place itself? The bar is appropriately industrial chic; the mezzanine is a great spot to sit and observe the action. Try different gins in a flight, or pick your perfect G&T combination or cocktail. It also has some decent wine and beer.
Earl’s Juke JointBar
(www.facebook.com/earlsjukejoint; 407 King St, Newtown; h4pm-midnight Mon-Sat, to 10pm Sun; dNewtown)
Swinging Earl’s serves craft beers and killer cocktails to the Newtown hip-erati. It’s hidden behind the down-at-heel facade of the butcher’s shop it used to be, but once in, you’re in downtown New Orleans, with a bar as long as the Mississippi.
Lazybones LoungeBar
(%0450 008 563; www.lazyboneslounge.com.au; 294 Marrickville Rd, Marrickville; h7pm-midnight Mon-Wed, 5pm-3am Thu-Sat, 5-10pm Sun; W; dMarrickville)
Roomy and extravagantly decorated, Lazybones is an excellent bar-lounge with live music nightly and a decent line in cocktails and food. At weekends it gets likeably louche, with a happy crowd dancing until late. Even the bouncers are friendly. There’s a cover charge for the bands ($10 to $20); it’s free later on. Enter on Illawarra Rd.
6Surry Hills & Darlinghurst
Love, Tilly DevineWine Bar
(map Google map; %02-9326 9297; www.lovetillydevine.com; 91 Crown Lane, Darlinghurst; h5pm-midnight Mon-Sat, to 10pm Sun; dMuseum)
This dark and good-looking split-level laneway bar is pretty compact, but the wine list certainly isn’t. It’s an extraordinary document, with some exceptionally well-chosen wines and a mission to get people away from their tried-and-tested favourites and explore. Take a friend and crack open a leisurely bottle of something. Italian deli bites and fuller plates are on hand too.
Shakespeare HotelPub
(%02-9319 6883; www.shakespearehotel.com.au; 200 Devonshire St, Surry Hills; h10am-midnight Mon-Sat, to 10pm Sun; jSurry Hills, dCentral)
This is a classic Sydney pub (1879) with art-nouveau tiled walls, scuzzy carpet, the horses on the TV and cheap bar meals. There are plenty of cosy hidey holes upstairs and a cast of local characters. It’s a proper convivial all-welcome place that’s the antithesis of the more gentrified Surry Hills drinking establishments.
Wild RoverBar
(%02-9280 2235; www.thewildrover.com.au; 75 Campbell St, Surry Hills; h4pm-midnight Mon-Sat; dCentral)
Look for the unsigned wide door and enter this supremely cool brick-lined speakeasy, where a big range of craft beer is served in chrome steins and jungle animals peer benevolently from the green walls. The upstairs bar opens for trivia and live bands. Irish folk music at weekends get the place pumping.
WynoWine Bar
(%02-8399 1440; www.porteno.com.au; 4/50 Holt St, Surry Hills; hnoon-11pm Tue-Fri, 5pm-midnight Sat; W; dCentral) Run by Porteño (sharing plates $20-50; h6pm-midnight Tue-Sat, plus noon-3pm Fri) next door, this wine bar has its own character. Seat yourself at the long communal bar and ask the welcoming waitstaff to suggest delicious drops from their wine selection (ask the price to avoid a shock) and tasty snacks and larger plates to suit your inclinations. Juicy empanadas, cold cuts, crisp calamari or zingy salads regularly feature.
Gay & Lesbian Sydney
Gay and lesbian culture forms a vocal and vital part of Sydney’s social fabric. Oxford St, Darlinghurst, has long been the locus of the gay scene, and every year tens of thousands line the street for the famous Sydney Gay & Lesbian Mardi Gras.
Free gay media includes SX (www.gaynewsnetwork.com.au), the Star Observer (www.starobserver.com.au) and Lesbians on the Loose (www.lotl.com).
Most hotels, restaurants and bars in Darlinghurst, Surry Hills and Newtown are very gay-friendly. For partying head to the following:
Beresford Hotel (map Google map; %02-9114 7328; www.merivale.com.au/theberesfordhotel; 354 Bourke St, Surry Hills; hnoon-midnight Mon & Tue, to 1am Wed-Sun; W; g374, 397, 399) Always gay-friendly, but on Sundays play spot-the-straight.
Sly Fox (%02-9557 2917; www.slyfox.sydney; 199 Enmore Rd, Enmore; h6pm-3am Wed & Thu, to 6am Fri & Sat; g423, 426, 428, M30) Working-class pub welcoming lesbians for many years.
Dolphin Hotel (%02-9331 4800; www.dolphinhotel.com.au; 412 Crown St, Surry Hills; h11.30am-midnight Mon-Sat, to 10pm Sun; W; dCentral) Mixed as they come in the heart of Surry Hills.
Marlborough Hotel (%02-9519 1222; www.marlboroughhotel.com.au; 145 King St, Newtown; h10am-4am Mon-Sat, to midnight Sun; dMacdonaldtown) Home to Tokyo Sing Song, an underground hideout for the kooky and queer.
Green Park Hotel (map Google map; %02-9380 5311; www.greenparkhotel.com.au; 360 Victoria St, Darlinghurst; h11am-midnight Mon-Wed, 11am-2am Thu-Sat, noon-midnight Sun; W; dKings Cross) A proper local pub for all persuasions.
6Kings Cross, Potts Point & Woolloomooloo
Old Fitzroy HotelPub
(map Google map; %02-9356 3848; www.oldfitzroy.com.au; 129 Dowling St, Woolloomooloo; h11am-midnight Mon-Fri, noon-11pm Sat, 3-10pm Sun; W; dKings Cross)
A gem hidden in the backstreets of Woolloomooloo, the totally unpretentious Old Fitz Theatre (map Google map; %0416 044 413; www.redlineproductions.com.au; tickets $25-48) is also a decent old-fashioned boozer in its own right, with a great variety of beers on tap and a convivial welcome. Prop up the bar, grab a seat at a street-side table or head upstairs to the bistro, pool table and couches.
MonopoleWine Bar
(map Google map; %02-9360 4410; www.monopolesydney.com.au; 71a Macleay St, Potts Point; h5pm-midnight Mon-Fri, from noon Sat, noon-10pm Sun; W; g311, dKings Cross)
Dark and sexy, Monopole seduces with its stylish interior, complete with hanging strips of black sound-absorption material and discreet front screen. A fabulous wine list of small Australian and international producers offers over 20 vintages by the glass or carafe, so an impromptu tasting session is easy. The food is great too, with house-cured charcuterie and intriguing cheeses a highlight.
6Manly
Manly Wharf HotelPub
(%02-9977 1266; www.manlywharfhotel.com.au; East Esplanade, Manly; h11.30am-midnight Mon-Fri, 11am-1am Sat, 11am-midnight Sun; W; fManly)
Just along the wharf from the ferry, this remodelled pub is all glass and water vistas, with loads of seating so you’ve a good chance of grabbing a share of the view. It’s a perfect spot for sunny afternoon beers. There’s good pub food, too (mains $22 to $30), with pizzas, fried fish and succulent rotisserie chicken all worthwhile.
3Entertainment
Sydney Theatre CompanyTheatre
(map Google map; STC; %02-9250 1777; www.sydneytheatre.com.au; Pier 4, 15 Hickson Rd; hbox office 9am-7.30pm Mon, to 8.30pm Tue-Fri, 11am-8.30pm Sat, 2hr before show Sun; g324, 325, dCircular Quay)
Established in 1978, the STC is Sydney theatre’s top dog and has played an important part in the careers of many famous Australian actors (especially Cate Blanchett, co-artistic director from 2008 to 2013). Performances are also staged at the Opera House. Redevelopment of the Walsh Bay precinct means they will be in the nearby Roslyn Packer Theatre (map Google map; %02-9250 1999; www.roslynpackertheatre.com.au; 22 Hickson Rd) until 2020.
City Recital HallClassical Music
(map Google map; %02-8256 2222; www.cityrecitalhall.com; 2 Angel Pl; hbox office 9am-5pm Mon-Fri; dWynyard)
Based on the classic configuration of the 19th-century European concert hall, this custom-built 1200-seat venue boasts near-perfect acoustics. Catch top-flight companies such as Musica Viva (%1800 688 482; www.musicaviva.com.au), the Australian Brandenburg Orchestra (ABO; %02-9328 7581; www.brandenburg.com.au; tickets $70-170) and the Australian Chamber Orchestra here.
Metro TheatreLive Music
(%02-9550 3666; www.metrotheatre.com.au; 624 George St; dTown Hall)
The Metro is easily Sydney’s best mid-sized venue for catching alternative local and international acts in intimate, well-ventilated, easy-seeing comfort. Other offerings include comedy, cabaret and dance parties.
Bangarra Dance TheatreDance
(map Google map; %02-9251 5333; www.bangarra.com.au; Pier 4, 15 Hickson Rd; g324, 325, dCircular Quay)
Bangarra is hailed as Australia’s finest Aboriginal performance company. Artistic director Stephen Page conjures a fusion of contemporary themes, Indigenous traditions and Western technique. When not touring internationally, the company performs at the Opera House or at Walsh Bay. Redevelopment of the Walsh Bay precinct means they won’t be found here again until 2020, however.
Spectator Sports
Sydneysiders are passionate about the National Rugby League (NRL; www.nrl.com). The season kicks off in March in suburban stadiums, with the grand final in early October.
Over the same period, home-town favourites the Sydney Swans and Greater Western Sydney Giants play in the Australian Football League (AFL; www.afl.com.au). The Swans play at the Sydney Cricket Ground and the Giants at the Sydney Showground Stadium in Sydney’s Olympic Park.
The cricket (www.cricket.com.au) season runs from October to March, with the SCG hosting interstate Sheffield Shield and sell-out international Test, Twenty20 and One Day International matches.
Moonlight CinemaCinema
(www.moonlight.com.au; Belvedere Amphitheatre, cnr Loch & Broome Aves, Centennial Park; adult/child $20/15; hsunset Dec-Mar; g333, 352, 440, M40, dBondi Junction)
Take a picnic and join the bats under the stars in magnificent Centennial Park; enter via the Woollahra Gate on Oxford St. A mix of new-release blockbuster, art-house and classic films is screened.
8INFORMATION
MEDICAL SERVICES
Hospitals with 24-hour accident and emergency departments include the following:
Royal Prince Alfred Hospital (RPA; %02-9515 6111; www.slhd.nsw.gov.au/rpa; Missenden Rd, Camperdown; h24hr; W; g412)
St Vincent’s Hospital (map; %02-8382 1111; www.svhs.org.au; 390 Victoria St, Darlinghurst; dKings Cross)
Sydney Children’s Hospital (%02-9382 1111; www.schn.health.nsw.gov.au; High St, Randwick; g370)
Sydney Hospital (map; %02-9382 7111; www.seslhd.health.nsw.gov.au/SHSEH; 8 Macquarie St; dMartin Place)
TOURIST INFORMATION
oSydney’s principal tourist office, Sydney Visitor Centre – The Rocks (map; %02-8273 0000; www.sydney.com; cnr Argyle & Playfair Sts; h9am-5.30pm; dCircular Quay), is in the heart of the historic Rocks district
oThe city council operates a good tourist information desk in the Customs House (map; www.cityofsydney.nsw.gov.au; Alfred St, Circular Quay; h9am-8pm Mon-Sat, to 5pm Sun; dCircular Quay) as well as kiosks in Martin Place, Chinatown (Dixon St, Haymarket; h11am-7pm; dTown Hall) and Kings Cross (map; %0477 344 125; cnr Darlinghurst Rd & Springfield Ave, Kings Cross; h9am-5pm; dKings Cross).
oThe helpful visitor centre Hello Manly (%02-9976 1430; www.hellomanly.com.au; East Esplanade; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun; fManly), just outside the ferry wharf and alongside the bus interchange, has free pamphlets covering the Manly Scenic Walkway and other Manly attractions, plus loads of local bus information.
Online Resources
Destination NSW (www.sydney.com) Official visitors’ guide.
Time Out (www.timeout.com/sydney) ‘What’s on’ information and reviews.
Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/sydney) Destination information, hotel bookings, traveller forum and more.
8GETTING THERE & AWAY
AIR
Also known as Kingsford Smith Airport, Sydney Airport (Kingsford Smith Airport; Mascot Airport; %02-9667 6111; www.sydneyairport.com.au; Airport Dr, Mascot; dDomestic Airport, dInternational Airport), just 10km south of the centre, has separate international (T1) and domestic (T2 and T3) sections, 4km apart on either side of the runways. A free shuttle bus runs between the two terminals, taking around 10 minutes. They are also connected by train.
BUS
Long-distance coaches arrive at Sydney Coach Terminal (%02-9281 9366; www.sydneycoachterminal.com.au; Central Station; h7am-6pm; dCentral) at Central Station. From here you can access the suburban train network, buses and light rail. The coach terminal office is upstairs in the main railway concourse.
TRAIN
Intercity trains pull into the old (Country Trains) section of Sydney’s historic Central Station (Eddy Ave; dCentral), in the Haymarket area of the southern inner city. From here you can connect to the suburban train network, catch the light rail, or follow the signs to Railway Sq or Eddy Avenue for suburban buses.
8GETTING AROUND
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
Taxis to the city cost up to $55 and depart from the front of the terminals. Airport shuttles head to city hotels from $22. Trains depart from beneath the terminal, but charge a whopping $14.30 on top of the normal train fare for the short journey into the city.
PUBLIC TRANSPORT
Transport NSW (%13 15 00; www.transportnsw.info) coordinates all of the state-run bus, ferry, train and light-rail services. You’ll find a useful journey planner on its website.
BUS
Transport NSW has an extensive bus network, operating from around 5am to midnight, when less frequent NightRide services commence.
FERRY
Most Sydney ferries (see Transport NSW website for details) operate between 6am and midnight. The standard Opal card one-way fare for most harbour destinations is $6.01; ferries to Manly, Sydney Olympic Park and Parramatta cost $7.51.
Private company Manly Fast Ferry (map; %02-9583 1199; www.manlyfastferry.com.au; Wharf 2, Circular Quay; adult one way $9.10) offers boats that blast from Circular Quay to Manly in 18 minutes.
LIGHT RAIL
Trams run between Central Station and Dulwich Hill, stopping at Chinatown, Darling Harbour, the Star casino, Sydney Fish Market, Glebe and Leichhardt en route.
TRAIN
Sydney Trains (%13 15 00; www.transport.nsw.gov.au) has a large suburban railway web with relatively frequent services, although there are no lines to the northern or eastern beaches.
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
Avoid driving in central Sydney if you can: there’s a confusing one-way street system, parking’s elusive and expensive, and parking inspectors, tolls and tow-away zones proliferate. Conversely, a car is handy for accessing Sydney’s outer reaches (particularly the beaches) and for day trips.
Opal Cards
Sydney’s public transport network runs on a smartcard system called Opal (www.opal.com.au). The card can be obtained (for free) and loaded with credit (minimum $10) at numerous newsagencies and convenience stores across Sydney. When commencing a journey you’ll need to touch the card to an electronic reader; these are located at the train station gates, near the doors of buses and light-rail carriages, and at the ferry wharves. You then need to touch a reader when you complete your journey so that the system can deduct the correct fare. You get a discount when transferring between services, and after a certain number of journeys in the week, and daily charges are capped at $15.80 ($2.70 on Sundays).
You can still buy single tickets (Opal single trip tickets) from machines at train stations, ferry wharves and light-rail stops, or from bus drivers. These are more expensive than the same fare using the Opal card.
TOLL ROADS
There are hefty tolls on most of Sydney’s motor-ways and major links (including the Harbour Bridge, Harbour Tunnel, Cross City Tunnel and Eastern Distributor). The tolling system is electronic, meaning that it’s up to you to organise an electronic tag or visitors’ pass through any of the following websites: www.roam.com.au, www.linkt.com.au, www.tollpay.com.au or www.myetoll.com.au. Note that most car-hire companies supply e-tags.
TAXI
Metered taxis are easy to flag down in the central city and inner suburbs, except at changeover times (3pm and 3am). Flagfall is $3.60, with a $2.50 ‘night owl surcharge’ after 10pm on a Friday and Saturday until 6am the following morning. After that the fare is $2.19 per kilometre, with an additional surcharge of 20% between 10pm and 6am.
The ride-sharing app Uber operates in Sydney and is very popular. Other apps such as GoCatch offer taxi bookings, which can be very handy on busy evenings. 13CABS is another nationwide taxi-booking app.
Legion Cabs (%13 14 51; www.legioncabs.com.au)
Premier Cabs (%13 10 17; www.premiercabs.com.au)
Silver Service (%13 31 00; www.silverservice.com.au)
WATER TAXI
Water taxis are a fast way to shunt around the harbour (Circular Quay to Watsons Bay in as little as 15 minutes). Companies will quote on any pick-up point within the harbour and the river, including private jetties, islands and other boats. All have a quote generator on their websites; you can add in extra cruise time for a bit of sightseeing. It’s much better value for groups than singles or couples.
Fantasea Yellow Water Taxis (%1800 326 822; www.yellowwatertaxis.com.au; h8am-9pm, prebooking required for service outside these hours)
H2O Maxi Taxis (%1300 420 829; www.h2owatertaxis.com.au)
Water Taxis Combined (%02-9555 8888; www.watertaxis.com.au)
iWhere to Stay
Sydney offers both a huge quantity and variety of accommodation, with solid options in every price range. Even so, the supply shrivels up under the summer sun, particularly around weekends and big events, so be sure to book ahead.
| Neighbourhood | Atmosphere |
|---|---|
| Circular Quay & the Rocks | Big-ticket sights; vibrant nightlife; high-end hotels and restaurants; tourist central. |
| Sydney Harbour | Everywhere is a pleasant ferry journey from town; can be isolated. |
| City Centre & Haymarket | Good transport links; lots of sights, bars, fantastic Asian restaurants; can be noisy. |
| Darling Harbour & Pyrmont | Plenty to see and do; lively nightlife; top-end restaurants; not exactly soulful. |
| Glebe & Newtown | Bohemian; great coffee; interesting shops; priced for locals; thin on tourist sights. |
| Surry Hills & Darlinghurst | Sydney’s hippest eating and drinking precinct; heart of the gay scene; few actual sights. |
| Kings Cross & Potts Point | Interesting and idiosyncratic; numerous hostels, bars and clubs; good transport links; sleazy strip clubs and dodgy alleyways. |
| Paddington & Centennial Park | Leafy and genteel, but not exactly thrilling; bus access to city and beaches; few sights. |
| Bondi to Coogee | Sand, surf and sexy bods; party bars; slow bus ride to the city. |
| Manly | Beautiful beaches; community feel; fair weather destination. |