BYRON BAY
Byron Bay at a Glance…
The reputation of this famous beach town on the New South Wales north coast precedes it – as they say in Byron, it’s got a great vibe! Come to surf epic breaks at dawn, paddle through hazy beach afternoons and sigh at the enchanting sunsets. Come to do reiki, refine your yoga practice, do a raw fast and hang with the fire-twirlers by the beach at sunset. Idle at the town’s excellent restaurant tables, then kick on with backpackers, musicians, models, young entrepreneurs, ageing hippies and property developers at one of its beery, shouty pubs. Do it all, then repeat!
Byron Bay in Two Days
Don’t muck around: down an excellent cafe breakfast then book a surf lesson. Take your pick of excellent dinner options, then hit Byron’s bars: everyone seems to end up at Railway Friendly Bar.
Next day, ignore your hangover and head for Cape Byron Lighthouse to see the sunrise. A day of alt therapies awaits: yoga, massage, meditation...
Byron Bay in Four Days
Book a hinterland day tour to check out waterfalls and hippy, smoke-hazed Nimbin. Back in Byron, catch a live band at the Great Northern.
Thursday? Don’t miss Byron Farmers Market. Otherwise, get a different take on Byron via a kayaking tour in Cape Byron Marine Park (exhibitionist dolphins guaranteed).
Arriving in Byron Bay
Byron’s train service is no more, so you’ll either be arriving here under your own steam (surfing road trip!), rolling into town on a bus, or catching a flight to the nearby Ballina Airport or Gold Coast Airport in Coolangatta. Shuttles service both airports. Qantas flies from Sydney; Jetstar and Virgin also service Melbourne.
Where to Stay
Byron beds are expensive, and the whole town does book out. But if you’re in the market for ‘barefoot luxury’ – relaxed but stylish – you’re in luck. Book well in advance for January, during festival times (eg Bluesfest at Easter) and school holidays. If you’re not on the edge of 17 years old, avoid Schoolies Week in mid-November.
TOP EXPERIENCE
Surfing in Byron
Learning to surf is an Australian rite of passage – if you feel like joining in, Byron Bay has plenty of good learn-to-surf schools and waves for beginners through to pros.
Great For…
yDon’t Miss
The Ben King Memorial Surf Classic competition in June, running for 40-plus years.
8Need to Know
Surfing apps (eg Magic Seaweed) will help you find the best breaks.
5Take a Break
Nurse your sore limbs over an ale at the Byron Bay Brewing Co.
oTop Tip
Belongil Beach, 1km north of Main Beach, is quieter and good for all levels.
Surf Culture in Australia
Australia has been synonymous with surfing ever since the Beach Boys effused about ‘Australia’s Narrabeen’, one of Sydney’s northern beaches, in ‘Surfin’ USA’. Other surfing hotspots such as Bells Beach, Margaret River, the Pass at Byron Bay, the heavy-breaking Shipstern Bluff in Tasmania and Burleigh Heads on the Gold Coast also resonate with international wave addicts. Iron Man and Surf Lifesaving competitions are also held on beaches around the country, attracting dedicated fans to the sand.
More than a few Australian surfers have attained ‘World Champion’ status. In the men’s competition, legendary surfers include Mark Richards, Tom Carroll, Joel Parkinson and 2013 champ (and shark survivor) Mick Fanning. On the women’s side, iconic Aussie surfers include Wendy Botha, seven-time champion Layne Beachley, 2018 champ (and seven-time winner) Stephanie Gilmore and 2016 winner Tyler Wright.
The Pass
Byron’s famous break is the Pass, a long, lusciously peeling right-hander formed by waves refracting around Cape Byron and running almost at right angles to the shore. It’s surfable even when it’s small, but gets mighty crowded when the swell picks up. It’s not really beginners’ terrain: cut your teeth over at Main Beach instead.
Surf Schools
There are plenty of surfing instructors in Byron Bay who can get you safely out into the waves and, with a bit of hard work and natural ability kicking in, have you standing up and barrelling towards the shore after a lesson or two. Tip: it ain’t as easy at it looks!
Surf schools all provide wetsuits and boards. Afterwards, once you’ve worked up a bit of confidence, most hostels provide free boards to guests, or you can rent all the requisite gear from local surf shops.
Black Dog SurfingSurfing
(map Google map; 
%02-6680 9828; www.blackdogsurfing.com; 11 Byron St; 3½hr group lesson $65, 3hr private lesson $140)
One of four Byron Bay–based surf schools that can hold lessons at a Byron Bay beach, rather than further afield. They offer intimate (seven people maximum) group lessons, including women’s and kids’ courses. Highly rated.
Soul Surf SchoolSurfing
(map Google map; %1800 089 699; www.soulsurfschool.com.au; 14 Bay St; 4hr group lesson $69)
Offers half-day to five-day courses for beginners with small groups of up to six people, or you can opt for a private lesson ($160 for 2½ hours).
1Sights
Cape Byron State Conservation ParkState Park
(www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/cape-byron-state-conservation-area; 
h8.30am-sunset)
The Cape Byron State Conservation Park is home to the Cape Byron lighthouse (www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au; Lighthouse Rd; hmuseum 10am-4pm) 
F, plenty of stunning lookouts (including from the most eastern point of the Australia mainland) and the excellent Cape Byron Walking Track. There is parking available at the lighthouse ($8).
1Beaches
Northwest of the town centre, wild Belongil Beach with its high dunes avoids the worst of the crowds and is clothing-optional in parts. At its eastern end lies the Wreck, a powerful right-hand surf break.
Immediately in front of town, lifesaver-patrolled Main Beach (map Google map) is busy from sunrise to sunset with yoga classes, buskers and, occasionally, fire dancers. As it stretches east it merges into Clarkes Beach. The most popular surf break is at the Pass near the eastern headland.
Around the rocks is gorgeous Watego’s Beach, a wide crescent of white sand surrounded by rainforest that fringes Byron’s most affluent enclave. A further 400m walk brings you to secluded Little Watego’s (inaccessible by car, but accessible by steps leading down from the lighthouse), another lovely patch of sand directly under rocky Cape Byron. Head here at sunset for an impressive moonrise (depending on your timing). Tucked under the south side of the Cape (entry via Tallow Beach Rd) is Cosy Corner, which offers a decent-sized wave and a sheltered beach when the northerlies are blowing elsewhere.
Tallow Beach is an incredible, deserted sandy stretch that extends for 7km south from Cape Byron. This is the place to flee the crowds. Kings Beach is a popular gay-friendly beach, just off Seven Mile Beach Rd past the Broken Head Holiday Park.
2Activities
Cape Byron Walking TrackWalking
(www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/things-to-do/walking-tracks/cape-byron-walking-track)
Spectacular views reward those who climb up from the Captain Cook Lookout (Lighthouse Rd) on the Cape Byron Walking Track. Ribboning around the headland and through rainforest, the track dips and (mostly) soars its way to the lighthouse. Look out for dolphins (year-round) and migrating whales (June to November). Allow about two hours for the entire 3.7km loop.
Gaia Retreat & SpaSpa
(%02-6687 1670; www.gaiaretreat.com.au; 933 Fernleigh Rd, Brooklet; massage & treatments $140-520) 
S
Sure, Byron is packed with places for pampering, but none quite like Gaia, famously co-owned by Olivia Newton John. This luxurious retreat, consistently topping world’s best lists, is tucked away in the verdant hinterland in Bundjalung country. If you don’t have the cash to overnight here, a visit to the day spa is the next best thing.
Go Sea KayaksKayaking
(%0416 222 344; www.goseakayakbyronbay.com.au; adult/child $75/50) S
Reputable 2½-hour sea-kayak tours in Cape Byron Marine Park are led by a team of local surf lifesavers daily at 9.30am and 2pm. Whale, dolphin or turtle sightings are guaranteed; otherwise you can book again for free.
SundiveDiving, Snorkelling
(map Google map; %02-6685 7755; www.sundive.com.au; Shop 8, 9-11 Byron St; dives from $110, snorkelling tours $75)
Two to three expeditions to Julian Rocks daily, plus various courses. Office entrance is on Middleton St.
TTours
Aboriginal Cultural ConceptsCultural
(%0405 654 280; www.aboriginalculturalconcepts.com; half-/full-day tours $95/190; htours run Wed-Sat)
Heritage tours led by Lois Cook, a traditional custodian of Nyangbul country in the region, explore cultural and mythological sights, and sample bush tucker along the Bundjalung coast.
Vision WalksWildlife
(%0405 275 743; www.visionwalks.com; full-day tours adult/child $145/110)
See all manner of creatures in their natural habitat, including nocturnal animals (on the Night Vision Walk) and hippies (on the Hippy Hinterland Trail that takes you to Nimbin).
Underwater Byron
About 3km offshore, Julian Rocks Marine Reserve is a meeting point for cold southerly and warm northerly currents, attracting a profusion of marine species including three types of turtle. You might also spot leopard sharks and manta rays in summer, and grey nurse sharks in winter. Operators such as Byron Bay Dive Centre (%02-6685 8333; www.byronbaydivecentre.com.au; 9 Marvell St; h9am-5pm; dives incl gear from $100, snorkelling tours $75) and Sundive offer guided dives and snorkelling trips.
7Shopping
Byron Farmers MarketMarket
(map Google map; www.byronfarmersmarket.com.au; Butler Street Reserve; h8-11am Thu)
Both a market and a symbol of the strength of the local community, this weekly market has a wide variety of mainly organic stalls, with both fresh produce and all manner of local products. Come early and hang with the locals for great coffee and breakfast, then linger for live music.
Byron Community MarketMarket
(map Google map; www.byronmarkets.com.au; Butler St Reserve; h8am-3pm 1st Sun of month)
The biggest market in the region, with more than 300 stalls covering over a hectare of land. Organic farmers and foodies meet alternative therapists, craftspeople and musicians at this monthly extravaganza.
5Eating
Top ShopCafe$
(65 Carlyle St; mains $10-17; h6.30am-4pm)
High up on the hill east of town, Top Shop has long been the choice of local surfers. Today it’s a casually upmarket version of the old-school takeaway, with diners ripping into acai bowls, steak sandwiches and burgers while lazing on the lawn.
Three Blue Ducks at the FarmCafe, Australian$$
(%02-6684 7888; www.thefarmbyronbay.com.au; 11 Ewingsdale Rd, Ewingsdale; breakfast $18-25, lunch & dinner $27-36; h7am-3pm Mon-Thu, to 10pm Fri-Sun)
The legendary Sydney team behind Three Blue Ducks moved up north to showcase its paddock-to-plate food philosophy. Their rustic barn cafe and restaurant forms the beating heart of The Farm (tours adult/child $20/15; h7am-4pm) F. Breakfast features typical Byron healthy fare, as well as a streaky bacon and egg roll, and slow-roasted brisket, while the lunch and dinner menus step it up with a gentle sophistication to the menu.
Il Buco Cafe & PizzeriaPizza$$
(map Google map; %02-6680 9186; www.ilbucobyronbay.com; 4/4 Bay Lane; pizza $15-28; h5.30pm-late)
The best pizza in town comes thanks to a group of friends from Tuscany who’ve set up shop in Byron. Authentic thin-crust wood-fired pizzas are sparingly topped with outstanding flavours using as much local produce as possible. The delicious prosciutto funghi features Bangalow sweet pork ham, while the simple margherita is made with a deliciously slurpable homemade passata and fior di latte mozzarella. BYO (no corkage!). Also does takeaway.
St ElmoSpanish$$$
(map Google map; %02-6680 7426; www.stelmodining.com; cnr Fletcher St & Lawson Lane; dishes $16-29; h5-11pm Mon-Sat, to 10pm Sun)
Perch on a stool at this moody modern tapas restaurant, where bar staff can whip up inventive cocktails or pour you a glass of wine from the largely Australian and Spanish list (including natural and minimal intervention drops). The solidly Iberian menu is bold and broad, with traditional favourites mixing it up with contemporary flourishes.
Bay Leaf CaféCafe$$
(map Google map; www.facebook.com/bayleafcoffee; 2 Marvell St; mains $17-24; h7am-2pm)
There’s a raft of Byron clichés on offer at this hip, busy cafe (golden lattes, kombucha, a ’70s psych rock soundtrack), but everything is made with remarkable attention to detail and a passion for produce. Breakfasts are fantastic, from the granola or Bircher muesli to the poached eggs with house-made dukkah or young Australia’s national dish: avocado on sourdough.
Balcony BarInternational$$
(map Google map; %02-6680 9666; www.balcony.com.au; cnr Lawson & Jonson Sts; mains $22-32; hnoon-11pm Mon-Thu, to late Fri, 9am-late Sat & Sun; 
W)
The eponymous architectural feature here wraps around the building and gives you tremendous views of the passing Byron parade (and the ever-busy traffic circle). Decor is an appealing postcolonial pastiche, while the food is a great mix of tasty tapas-style dishes, Med-inflected warm-weather-appropriate salads and sophisticated main meals from chilli crab linguine to a dry-aged beef burger on brioche.
Rae’s Dining RoomSeafood$$$
(%02-6685 5366; www.raesonwategos.com; 8 Marine Pde, Watego’s Beach; mains $36-44; hnoon-3pm & 6-11pm)
The sound of the surf perfectly sets off the excellent Mediterranean-influenced dishes at this exclusive little retreat overlooking Watego’s Beach. Headed up by chef Jason Barratt, formerly at Melbourne’s acclaimed Attica restaurant, seafood features heavily on the menu with a strong focus on sourcing local produce from the Northern Rivers region.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Treehouse on BelongilPub
(%02-6680 9452; www.treehouseonbelongil.com; 25 Childe St; h7.30am-11pm)
LocuraBar, Club
(map Google map; %02-6675 9140; www.locura.com.au; 6 Lawson St; h5pm-late)
No strangers to Byron’s hospitality scene, the guys from Three Blue Ducks are weaving their magic on the town’s bar scene with the opening of Locura, a sleek and sophisticated bar. The decor leans towards minimalist/industrial, while the menu is Latin American inspired, with plenty of tequila and mezcal paired with shredded pork tacos, oysters with hot sauce, and ceviche.
Railway Friendly BarPub
(map Google map; The Rails; %02-6685 7662; www.therailsbyronbay.com; 86 Jonson St; h11am-midnight, from noon Sun)
‘The Rails’ indoor-outdoor mayhem draws everyone from lobster-red British tourists to high-on-life earth mothers and babyboomer tourists. The front beer garden – conducive to long, beery afternoons – has free live music, while the kitchen pumps out excellent burgers, with variants including roo, grilled fish and pork belly with slaw.
Stone & WoodBrewery
(%02-6685 5173; www.stoneandwood.com.au; 100 Centennial Circuit; htasting room 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, noon-6pm Sat & Sun)
This independent and proudly local brewery – with a core family of ales, experimental pilot batches and seasonal beers – upgraded to a huge new space in late 2018 where you can still drop by for a paddle and to pick up a few beers or a carton; or book online for a 1½-hour in-depth tour (three daily, except Tuesdays; $25 per person).
Byron Bay BreweryBrewery
(map Google map; %02-6639 6100; www.byronbaybrewery.com.au; 1 Skinners Shoot Rd; hnoon-late Wed-Sun)
At this old piggery turned booze barn you can drink frosty glasses of house pale ale or lager in a light, louvred space by the brewing vats or outside in the tropical courtyard shaded by a giant fig tree. Free brewery tour and tastings run at 2pm on weekends. There’s a pub-snack menu, and entertainment includes live music, DJs and open-mic nights.
3Entertainment
Northern HotelPub
(map Google map; %02-6685 6454; www.thenorthern.com.au; 35-43 Jonson St; hnoon-late)
This live-music stalwart is as grungy and boozy as it ever was, and has played host to everyone from Billy Bragg and Dizzee Rascal to Dinosaur Jr and PJ Harvey. The front bar is a prime spot for people-watching with a cold drink out the open windows or on a street-side table, and does $10 burger-and-chip deals for lunch daily.
Pighouse FlicksCinema
(map Google map; %02-6685 5828; www.pighouseflicks.com.au; 1 Skinners Shoot Rd; tickets adult/child $15/5)
Part of the Byron Bay Brewery complex, this atmospheric lounge-cinema shows classic reruns and art-house flicks.
8INFORMATION
Byron Visitor Centre (map Google map; %02-6680 8558; www.visitbyronbay.com; Old Stationmaster’s Cottage, 80 Jonson St; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm Sun; W) is the place for accurate tourist information, and last-minute accommodation and bus bookings.
The website www.byron-bay.com is a helpful resource.
Bay Centre Medical (map Google map; %02-6685 6206; www.byronmed.com.au; 6 Lawson St; h8am-5.30pm Mon-Thu, to 5pm Fri, to noon Sat)
Byron Central Hospital (%02-6639 9400; https://nnswlhd.health.nsw.gov.au/about/hospitals/byron-central-hospital; 54 Ewings-dale Rd; h24hr)
8GETTING THERE & AWAY
AIR
The closest airport is in Ballina (%02-6681 1858; www.ballinabyronairport.com.au; Southern Cross Dr), 30 minutes south. Byron Easy Bus, Steve’s Airport Transfers (%0414 660 031; https://stevestransport.com.au; one way/return $20/35) and Xcede (%02-6620 9200; https://byronbay.xcede.com.au) all serve Ballina airport ($20, 20 minutes).
Gold Coast Airport (www.goldcoastairport.com.au; Eastern Ave, Bilinga), 40 minutes away in Coolangatta, has more services. Skybus (map Google map; www.skybus.com.au/byron-bay-express; one way adult/child $28/14) runs daily services between Byron Bay and Gold Coast Airport ($28, 55 minutes), as does Byron Easy Bus ($32) and Xcede ($40).
John Byron, not Lord Byron
James Cook named Cape Byron, mainland Australia’s most easterly point, after renowned navigator John Byron, grandfather of the poet Lord Byron. Later bureaucrats mistakenly planned out streets named after fellow poets such as Jonson, Burns and Shelley.
BUS
Coaches stop on Jonson St near the Byron Visitor Centre. Operators include Premier (%13 34 10; www.premierms.com.au), Greyhound (%1300 473 946; www.greyhound.com.au) and NSW TrainLink (map Google map; %13 22 32; www.nswtrainlink.info).
Blanch’s (%02-6686 2144; www.blanchs.com.au) Regular buses to/from Ballina Byron Gateway Airport ($7.40, one hour), Ballina ($9.60, 55 minutes), Lennox Head ($5, 25 minutes), Bangalow ($5, 25 minutes) and Mullumbimby ($5, 25 minutes).
Byron Bay Express (www.byronbayexpress.com.au; one way/return $30/55) Four buses daily to/from Gold Coast Airport (45 minutes) and Surfers Paradise (1½ hours) for $30/55 one way/return.
Byron Easy Bus (%02-6685 7447; www.byronbayshuttle.com.au; adult/child $20/12) Minibus service to Brisbane ($44, three hours).