GREAT BARRIER REEF & THE DAINTREE

Great Barrier Reef & the Daintree at a Glance...

Tropical, touristy Cairns is unmissable. Experienced divers and first-time toe-dippers swarm to the steamy city for its easy access to the Great Barrier Reef, while the more party-prone are well served by a barrage of bars and clubs.

The winding road north hugs the ludicrously scenic shoreline en route to Port Douglas. North of here, the profuse Daintree Rainforest stretches to Cape Tribulation and beyond, tumbling onto long swaths of white-sand beach.

Hardy Reef, Great Barrier Reef | JOHN CARNEMOLLA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

The Great Barrier Reef & the Daintree Rainforest in Two Days

The ‘GBR’ and Daintree are VAST: with just two days, do one or the other! For the reef, fly into Cairns, explore the Esplanade, Boardwalk & Lagoon and visit Reef Teach ahead of your reef trip the next day. For the Daintree, chill in Port Douglas for a day then day-trip into the jungle.

The Great Barrier Reef & the Daintree Rainforest in Four Days

Four days affords a little flexibility. Either base yourself around the southern reef islands and really get a feel for these tropical climes (Heron Island has some of the world’s best diving); or launch into a Cairns–Great Barrier Reef–Port Douglas–Daintree four-day extravaganza.

Arriving in the Great Barrier Reef & the Daintree Rainforest

Cairns is the main base for exploring the northern reef. Cairns Airport is 6km north of town: shuttles meet all flights, or a taxi will cost about $30. Bundaberg, Gladstone and Town of 1770 offer boat and air connections to the southern reef islands. Port Douglas, an hour’s drive north of Cairns, is the natural jumping-off point for Daintree adventures.

Where to Stay

Cairns has myriad accommodation for all budgets; Port Douglas too, though businesses here are a little more geared towards the ‘luxe’ traveller. Most reef island resorts are distinctly high-end, though some (eg Lady Elliot Island) won’t break a midrange traveller’s bank. Daintree accommodation includes hostels (Cape Tribulation) and jungle B&Bs and lodges around Cape Tribulation and Cow Bay.

TOP EXPERIENCE

Exploring the Reef

There are many ways to approach this massive undersea wonder: join an organised tour from a gateway town; take a multiday sailing or diving trip; or fly to a remote island.

Great For…

fgA

8Need to Know

June to November is the best time to visit: not too hot, with good underwater visibility.

oTop Tip

Skies grey? The reef is exponentially more colourful and glorious on a sunny day.

Tour boat docked on a pontoon, Great Barrier Reef | DANITA DELIMONT/ALAMY ©

Picking Your Spot

Given the reef’s size, it follows that there are many popular spots from which to access it – but bear in mind that the qualities of individual areas do change over time, depending on the weather, tidal shifts or recent cyclone or coral-bleaching damage.

Mainland Gateways

The major mainland reef access points all offer slightly different experiences or activities. This list is organised from south to north.

oBundaberg

oAgnes Water & Town of 1770

oGladstone

oAirlie Beach

oCairns

oPort Douglas

Island Gateways

Rising above the waterline throughout the Reef are hundreds of islands and cays, offering instant access to the undersea marvels. Some of our favourite islands include lady Elliot Island and Heron Island.

Island Resorts

The Great Barrier Reef is home to over a dozen island resorts, offering varying levels of comfort and style. Where to stay depends not only on your budget, but also what sort of activities you have in mind. Some resorts are small and secluded (and don’t allow children), which can be ideal for a tropical getaway doing little more than sipping tropical cocktails. If this sounds ideal, try Orpheus Island. Other resorts have a busier vibe and offer a wide range of activities, from sailing and kayaking to helicopter joy rides, plus restaurants and even some nightlife.

Boat Excursions

Unless you’re staying on a coral-fringed island, you’ll need to join a boat excursion to experience the reef’s real beauty. Day trips leave from many places along the coast, as well as from island resorts, and typically include the use of snorkelling gear, snacks and a buffet lunch, with scuba diving an optional extra. On some boats, naturalists or marine biologists present talks on the reef’s ecology.

Boat trips vary dramatically in passenger numbers, type of vessel and quality – which is reflected in the price – so it’s worth getting all the details before committing. When selecting a tour, consider the vessel (motorised catamaran or sailing ship), the number of passengers (from six to 400), what extras are offered and the destination. The outer reefs are usually more pristine. Inner reefs often show signs of damage from humans and coral-eating crown-of-thorns starfish. Coral bleaching is a major issue in far northern sections of the reef. Some operators offer the option of a trip in a glass-bottomed boat or semi-submersible.

Many boats have underwater cameras for hire, although you can save money by hiring these on land (or using your own waterproof camera or underwater housing). Some boats also have professional photographers on board who will dive and take high-quality shots of you in action.

oTop Tip

Remember never to walk on the coral: not only can it cut you badly, but it’s also very fragile.

Diving & Snorkelling the Reef

Much of the diving and snorkelling on the reef is boat-based, although there are some excellent reefs accessible by walking straight off the beach of some islands. Free use of snorkelling gear is usually part of any day cruise to the reef – you can typically fit in around three hours of underwater wandering. Overnight or live-aboard trips obviously provide a more in-depth experience and greater coverage of the reefs.

If you don’t have a diving certificate, many operators offer the option of an introductory dive, where an experienced diver conducts an underwater tour. A lesson in safety and procedure is given beforehand and you don’t require a five-day Professional Association of Diving Instructors (PADI) course or a ‘buddy’.

Top Reef Dive Spots

The Great Barrier Reef is home to some of the world’s best diving sites. Here are a few of our favourite spots to get you started:

SS Yongala A sunken shipwreck that has been home to a vivid marine community for more than 90 years.

Cod Hole Go nose-to-nose with a potato cod.

Heron Island Join a crowd of colourful fish straight off the beach.

Lady Elliot Island With 19 highly regarded dive sites.

Wheeler Reef Massive variety of marine life, plus a great spot for night dives.

Top Snorkelling Sites

Some non-divers may wonder if it’s really worth going to the Great Barrier Reef ‘just to snorkel’. The answer is a resounding ‘Yes!’ Much of the rich, colourful coral lies just underneath the surface (as coral needs bright sunlight to flourish) and is easily accessible. Here’s a round-up of what we think are the top snorkelling sites:

oFitzroy Reef Lagoon (Town of 1770)

oHeron Island (Capricorn Coast)

oGreat Keppel Island (Capricorn Coast)

oLady Elliot Island (Capricorn Coast)

oLady Musgrave Island (Capricorn Coast)

oLizard Island (Cairns)

oMichaelmas Reef (Cairns)

oHastings Reef (Cairns)

oNorman Reef (Cairns)

oSaxon Reef (Cairns)

oGreen Island (Cairns)

AQUAPIXA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

8Did You Know?

The Great Barrier Reef is approximately 8000 years old and is around the size of Germany.

Trips from Cairns

Reef trips generally include transport, lunch, stinger-suits and snorkelling gear. When choosing a tour, consider the vessel type, its capacity, inclusions and destination: outer reefs are more pristine but further afield; inner reefs can be patchy and show signs of decay. Some prefer smaller, less-crowded vessels, while others go for the wide range of inclusions bigger boats promise.

Vendors with their own pontoon offer all-round value: pontoons are a great way for families to experience the reef – those who aren’t keen on getting in the water can enjoy the pontoon’s facilities, or a trip in a glass-bottomed boat or semi-submersible.

Almost all boats depart from the Marlin Wharf (with check in and booking facilities located inside the Reef Fleet Terminal) around 8am, returning around 6pm. Smaller operators may check-in boat-side at their berth on the wharf itself; check with your operator.

Recommended operators include the following:

Tusa Dive (%07-4047 9100; www.tusadive.com; cnr Shields St & Esplanade; adult/child day trips from $215/140, introductory dive $285/210) S A maximum of 60 passengers aboard the custom-designed reef vessel (the T6), a roving outer-reef permit and a high staff-to-passenger ratio make this operator an excellent choice for day trips.

Reef Magic (%07-4031 1588; www.reefmagiccruises.com; Reef Fleet Terminal; adult/child/family day trips from $220/110/557; c) A long-time family favourite, Reef Magic’s high-speed cat sails to its all-weather Marine World pontoon moored on the edge of the outer reef. If you’re water shy, try a glass-bottomed boat ride, chat with the marine biologist or have a massage!

Great Adventures (%07-4044 9944; www.greatadventures.com.au; Reef Fleet Terminal; adult/child/family day trips from $236/125/597; c) Great Adventures runs trips to Green Island and the outer Great Barrier Reef aboard its fast catamaran. Diving add-ons, and glass-bottomed boat, semi-submersible and Scuba Doo underwater scooter tours are also available.

Snorkeller in jellyfish stinger suit | CHAMELEONSEYE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

TOP EXPERIENCE

Daintree Rainforest

The impossibly lush Daintree represents many things: World Heritage–listed rainforest, a river, a reef, laid-back villages and the home of its traditional custodians, the Kuku Yalanji people.

Great For…

fgc

yDon’t Miss

A long beach-combing amble along Cape Tribulation Beach or Myall Beach at Cape Trib.

8Need to Know

Daintree Rainforest (www.daintreerainforest.com)

5Take a Break

Mason’s Store & Cafe in Cape Tribulation is a one-stop-shop for food, booze and info.

oTop Tip

The water of the Daintree River looks inviting: the resident saltwater crocodiles agree.

An Amazing Rainforest

Upon entering the forest, you’ll be enveloped by a cacophony of birdsong, frog croaking and the buzz of insects. Continue exploring the area via wildlife-spotting night tours, mountain treks, interpretive boardwalks, canopy walks, self-guided walking trails, 4WD trips, horse riding, kayaking, croc-spotting cruises, tropical-fruit orchard tours and tastings…Whew! If you’re lucky, you might even spot a cassowary.

History, Controversy & Control

The greater Daintree Rainforest is protected as part of Daintree National Park, but this protection is not without controversy. In 1983, despite conservationist blockades, what’s now the Bloomfield Track was bulldozed through lowland rainforest from Cape Tribulation to the Bloomfield River. Ensuing publicity led to the federal government nominating Queensland’s wet tropical rainforests for World Heritage listing, generating state government and timber industry opposition. In 1988 the area was inscribed on the World Heritage List and commercial logging here was banned.

Unesco World Heritage listing (www.whc.unesco.org) doesn’t affect ownership rights or control. Since the 1990s the Queensland government and conservation agencies have attempted to buy back and rehabilitate freehold properties in the area, adding them to the Daintree National Park. Sealing the road to Cape Tribulation in 2002 triggered the buy-back of even more land, which, coupled with development controls, now bears the fruits of forest regeneration. Check out Rainforest Rescue (www.rainforestrescue.org.au) for more information.

Daintree Tours

Cape Tribulation Wilderness CruisesBoating

(%0457 731 000; www.capetribcruises.com; Cape Tribulation Rd; adult/child from $34/24)

This is the only tour boat permitted in the Cape Trib section of the Daintree National Park, cruising Cooper Creek in search of crocs. Book ahead.

Cooper Creek WildernessWalking

(%07-4098 9126; www.coopercreek.com.au; 2333 Cape Tribulation Rd; guided walks $70-185)

Book ahead for expert guided rainforest walks that include a dip in Cooper Creek. A variety of itineraries are available.

Tony’s Tropical ToursTours

(%07-4099 3230; www.tropicaltours.com.au) S

This luxury, small-group (eight to 10 passengers) tour operator, based in Port Douglas, specialises in trips to out-of-the-way sections of the Mossman Gorge and Daintree Rainforest (adult/child $185/160).

See here for more on the Daintree.

Southern Reef Islands

While much fuss is made about the Great Barrier Reef’s northern splendour, the Southern Reef Islands are the place of ‘castaway’ dreams: tiny coral atolls fringed with sugary white sand and turquoise-blue seas, and hardly anyone within flipper-flapping reach. From beautiful Lady Elliot Island, 80km northeast of Bundaberg, secluded and uninhabited coral reefs and atolls dot the ocean for about 140km up to Tryon Island. Access is from Town of 1770 and Gladstone.

Lady Elliot Island

Set on the southern rim of the Great Barrier Reef, Lady Elliot is a 40-hectare vegetated coral cay populated with nesting sea turtles and an impressive number of seabirds. It’s considered to have the best snorkelling in the southern Great Barrier Reef and the diving is good too.

Lady Elliot Island is not a national park, and camping is not allowed; your only option is the low-key Lady Elliot Island Eco Resort (%1800 072 200; www.ladyelliot.com.au; r with half board & activities $185-450, child $130).

The only way to reach the island is in a light aircraft. Resort guests are flown in from Bundaberg, the Gold Coast and Hervey Bay. The resort also manages fantastic, great-value day trips for around $365, including a scenic flight, a snorkelling tour and lunch.

Lady Musgrave Island

Wannabe castaways look no further. This tiny, 15-hectare cay, 100km northeast of Bundaberg, sits on the western rim of a stunning, turquoise-blue reef lagoon renowned for its safe swimming, snorkelling and diving. A squeaky, white-sand beach fringes a dense canopy of pisonia forest brimming with roosting bird life, including terns, shearwaters and white-capped noddies. Birds nest from October to April while green turtles nest from November to February.

Day trips ($205) to Lady Musgrave depart from Bundaberg as part of the Lady Musgrave Experience (%0427 009 922; www.ladymusgraveexperience.com.au; Shop 5, 15-17 Marina Drive, Burnett Heads, Bundaberg Port Marina; adult/child/family $218/118/599; c)

Heron Island

Part of the smaller Capricornia Cays group, Heron Island is ranked among the finest scuba diving spots in the world, particularly in terms of ease of access. Visitors to Heron generally know what they are coming for – underwater paradise – but the island’s rugged beauty is reason enough to stay above the surface. There’s Heron Island Resort (%1800 875 343; www.heronisland.com; d/ste from $347/589; a) and a research station on the northeastern third of the island; the remainder is national park.

The Heron Islander (%1800 875 343; www.heronisland.com; one way adult/child $64/32) departs Gladstone daily at 2pm (adult/child one way $62/31, 2½ hours).

For a more glamorous approach, take a seaplane (%1800 875 343; www.heronisland.com; one way $349).

Heron Island | GEKKO GALLERY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

8GETTING THERE & AWAY

Depending on their remoteness, the Southern Reef Islands are accessible from mainland by boat (from Town of 1770) or plane or helicopter (from Bundaberg, Gladstone or Hervey Bay).

8GETTING AROUND

Once on the islands, boats organised by the resorts or local operators are the only means of transport.

Agnes Water & Town of 1770

Happily tucked away a decent distance from Bundaberg or Gladstone, on gorgeous coastal lands owned traditionally by the Gureng Gureng people, these two idyllic little beach towns retain an unfussy charm that is seaside Australia at its best.

Agnes Water has the east coast’s most northerly surf beach, a sleepy commercial centre, and some excellent hostels. Just 8km up the road is the site of Captain Cook’s first landing in Queensland, in 1770.

Looking After the Reef

The Great Barrier Reef is incredibly fragile: it’s worth taking some time to educate yourself on responsible practices to minimise the impact of your visit.

It is an offence to damage or remove coral in the marine park.

oIf you touch or walk on coral, you’ll damage it (and probably get some nasty cuts).

oDon’t touch or harass marine animals, and don’t enter the water near a dugong.

oIf you have a boat, be aware of the rules in relation to anchoring around the reef, including ‘no anchoring areas’ to avoid coral damage.

oIf you’re diving, check that you are weighted correctly before entering the water and keep your buoyancy control well away from the reef. Ensure that equipment such as secondary regulators and gauges aren’t dragging over the reef.

oHire a wetsuit or a ‘rashie’ rather than slathering on sunscreen, which can damage the reef.

oWatch where your fins are – try not to stir up sediment or disturb coral.

oNote that there are limits on the amount and types of shells that you can collect.

MYRIAM B/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

2Activities

1770 Liquid AdventuresKayaking

(%0428 956 630; www.1770liquidadventures.com.au)

This experienced outfit makes the most of 1770’s delightful surrounds on its sunset tours (from $55). You’ll be guided around the usually placid waters off Eurimbula National Park, before retiring to Bustard Bay beach for drinks and snacks in the gloaming – keep an eye out for dolphins. You can also rent kayaks for self-directed fun ($20/25 single/double kayaks per hour).

Kuranda Scenic Railway

Winding 34km from Cairns to Kuranda through picturesque mountains, the track used by the Kuranda Scenic Railway (%07-4036 9333; www.ksr.com.au; adult/child one way from $50/25, return from $76/38; c) was completed in 1891: workers dug tunnels by hand, battling sickness, steep terrain and venomous creatures. The two-hour pleasure trip includes seating in heritage-style carriages, audio commentary, souvenir trip guide and a stop at the Barron Falls viewing platform.

Trains depart Cairns Central Railway Station at 8.30am and 9.30am daily, returning from Kuranda station at 2pm and 3.30pm. Kuranda Scenic Railway and Skyrail Rainforest Cableway (%07-4038 5555; www.skyrail.com.au; cnr Cook Hwy & Cairns Western Arterial Rd, Smithfield; adult/child one way from $53/26.50, return from $79/39.50; h9am-5.15pm; c) S offer combination tickets (adult/child from $112.50/56.25): take the railway up and the cableway back down.

Kuranda Scenic Railway Station | ADRIANOK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

5Eating

Getaway Garden CaféCafe$$

(%07-4974 9323; www.1770getaway.com.au; 303 Bicentennial Dr, Agnes Water; breakfast & lunch mains $18-20, dinner per person $28; h8am-2.30pm Sun-Fri, with booking 5.30-7.30pm Wed & Sun; W)

This open-sided, teak-doored pavilion, set in restful tropical gardens popular with local wildlife, is the venue for some of the best food in Agnes. Dealing primarily in breakfast and lunch (eggs Benedict with brisket on brioche will set you up; a vibrant salad with grilled halloumi will keep you going), it also does a mean coffee and cake.

8INFORMATION

Agnes Water Visitor Information Centre (%07-4902 1533; www.visitagnes1770.com.au; 71 Springs Rd, Agnes Water; h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat, to 1pm Sun)

Discover 1770 (%07-4974 7557; www.discover1770.com.au; cnr Round Hill Rd & Captain Cook Dr, Agnes Water; h8.30am-5.30pm)

8GETTING THERE & AWAY

Greyhound (%1300 473 946; www.greyhound.com.au) buses detour off the Bruce Hwy to Agnes Water; daily services include Bundaberg ($29, 1½ hours) and Cairns ($244, 22½ hours).

Cairns

Cairns (pronounced ‘cans’) has come a long way since its humble beginnings as a boggy swamp and rollicking goldfields port. As the number-one base for Far North Queensland and the Great Barrier Reef, today Cairns heaves under the weight of an ever-growing number of resorts, tour agencies, souvenir shops, backpacker bars and reef boats. This is a tourist town, and unashamedly so.

The city centre is more boardshorts than briefcases. There’s no beach in town, but spend time at the Esplanade lagoon or the Pier marina and you’ll understand why many travellers fall for Cairns.

The Cairns region is the traditional land of the Yirrganydji and Yidinji peoples.

1Sights & Activities

Cairns Esplanade, Boardwalk & LagoonWaterfront

(www.cairns.qld.gov.au/esplanade; hlagoon 6am-9pm Thu-Tue, noon-9pm Wed; c) F

Sunseekers and fun-lovers flock to Cairns Esplanade’s spectacular swimming lagoon on the city’s reclaimed foreshore. The artificial, sandy-edged, 4800-sq-metre saltwater pool with its Woven Fish sculptures, is lifeguard patrolled and illuminated nightly. The adjacent 3km foreshore boardwalk has picnic areas, birdwatching vantage points, free BBQs and fitness equipment. Follow the signposts for the excellent Muddy’s (www.cairns.qld.gov.au; Esplanade; c) F, which has playgrounds and water fun for little kids, and the skate ramp, beach volleyball courts, bouldering park and Fun Ship playground.

Cairns Esplanade | MARTIN VALIGURSKY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Tjapukai Aboriginal Cultural ParkCultural Centre

(%07-4042 9999; www.tjapukai.com.au; Cairns Western Arterial Rd; adult/child/family $62/42/166; h9am-4.30pm & 7-9.30pm; c) S

Managed by the area’s original custodians, this award-winning cultural extravaganza tells the story of creation using giant holograms and actors. There’s a dance theatre, a gallery, boomerang- and spear-throwing demonstrations and turtle-spotting canoe rides. The Nightfire dinner-and-show package (adult/child/family $123/75/321, from 7pm to 9.30pm) culminates in a fireside corroboree.

Reef TeachCultural Centre

(%07-4031 7794; www.reefteach.com.au; 2nd fl, Mainstreet Arcade, 85 Lake St; adult/child/family $23/14/60; hlectures 6.30-8.30pm Mon, Wed, Fri) S

Take your knowledge to new depths at this fun, informative centre, where marine experts explain how to identify specific species of fish and coral, and how to approach the reef respectfully.

7Shopping

Rusty’s MarketsMarket

(%07-4040 2705; www.rustysmarkets.com.au; 57-89 Grafton St; h5am-6pm Fri & Sat, to 3pm Sun)

No weekend in Cairns is complete without a visit to this busy and vibrant multicultural market. Weave (and taste) your way through piles of seasonal tropical fruits, veggies and herbs, plus farm-fresh honey, locally grown flowers, excellent coffees, curries, cold drinks, antiques and more.

5Eating

GanbaranbaJapanese$

(%07-4031 2522; 14 Spence St; mains $10-14; h11.30am-2.30pm & 5.30-8.30pm)

Ganbaranba is a cult joint, and without a doubt the best place for ramen noodles and gyoza in Cairns. Slurpers can watch the chefs making noodles; if the view proves too tempting, you can ask for a refill for a mere $1.50. Absolutely worth the wait.

Fusion Art Bar & TapasTapas$$

(%07-4051 3888; www.fusionartbar.com.au; 12 Spence St; tapas $9-20, mains $19-35; h3-10pm Tue-Thu, 11am-11pm Fri & Sat; W)

Everything in this crazy-cool cafe is a piece of art and there’s a real eclectic charm to everything from the furniture to the thoughtfully designed tapas menu of cured kangaroo tartare or pumpkin ravioli. Share plates feature vegan paella and pork ribs with mash and pineapple. Good wine list and coffee.

Perrotta’s at the GalleryMediterranean$$

(%07-4031 5899; 38 Abbott St; mains $13-29; h6.30am-10pm; v)

This unmissable eatery, attached to the Cairns Art Gallery (%07-4046 4800; www.cairnsregionalgallery.com.au; cnr Abbott & Shields Sts; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat, 10am-2pm Sun) F, tempts you onto its covered deck with splendid gourmet breakfasts (6.30am to 3pm), fresh juices, barista coffee and an inventive Mediterranean-inspired lunch and dinner menu. It’s a chic spot with an interesting crowd and ideal people-watching perches.

OchreModern Australian$$$

(%07-4051 0100; www.ochrerestaurant.com.au; Marlin Pde; mains $20-42; h11.30am-3pm & 5.30-9.30pm)

The menu at this innovative waterfront restaurant utilises native Aussie fauna (such as salt and native pepper-leaf crocodile and prawns or wallaby fillet) and flora (wattle-seed, lemon myrtle or Davidson plum glaze). Tablelands steaks are cooked to perfection. Can’t decide? Order a tasting plate (six courses from $105) or a platter ($30 to $76).

6Drinking & Nightlife

Green Ant CantinaMicrobrewery

(%07-4041 5061; www.greenantcantina.com; 183 Bunda St; h4pm-late Tue-Sat)

Behind the train station, this grungy, rockin’ Tex-Mex bar is an ace and arty alternative hangout. Smothered in bright murals, the Green Ant brews its own beers (seven varieties, including a strong brown ale) and hosts regular music events. It also does fab food, including pulled-pork quesadillas, jambalaya and the infamous, blistering Wings of Death.

Salt HouseBar

(%07-4041 7733; www.salthouse.com.au; 6/2 Pierpoint Rd; h6.30am-2am)

On the waterfront by the yacht club, Cairns’ coolest, classiest bar caters to a hip and happy crowd. With killer cocktails, tremendous views, live music and DJs, and a superb Mod-Oz nibbles-and-mains menu, the Salt House is absolutely not to be missed. The pizzeria here is justifiably popular.

8INFORMATION

The Cairns Regional Council’s website (www.cairns.qld.gov.au/region/tourist-information) has tonnes of details on events, activities and transport in the region.

The government-run but volunteer-staffed visitor centre has surprisingly closed. That leaves the many private information and booking offices around town; they all book the same trips at similar prices, but you can usually get better deals booking through your accommodation, especially at backpacker hostels.

There are several medical centres in Cairns; the Cairns 24 Hour Medical Centre (%07-4052 1119; cnr Grafton & Florence Sts; h24hr) never closes and accepts walk-ins. There are pharmacies (chemists) on almost every corner of the city.

8GETTING THERE & AWAY

AIR

Qantas (%13 13 13; www.qantas.com.au), Virgin Australia (%13 67 89; www.virginaustralia.com) and Jetstar (%13 15 38; www.jetstar.com.au), and a handful of international carriers, arrive at and depart from Cairns Airport (%07-4080 6703; www.cairnsairport.com; Airport Ave), approximately 6km from the city centre, with direct services to all Australian capital cities except Canberra and Hobart.

BUS

Long-distance buses arrive at and depart from the Interstate Coach Terminal (Reef Fleet Terminal), Cairns Central Railway Station and the Cairns Transit Mall (Lake St). Operators include the following:

Greyhound Australia (%1300 473 946; www.greyhound.com.au)

Premier Motor Service (%13 34 10; www.premierms.com.au)

Sun Palm (%07-4087 2900; www.sunpalmtransport.com.au; Cairns Airport)

CAR & MOTORCYCLE

Major car-rental companies have airport and city (usually on Sheridan St) branches.

TRAIN

The Kuranda Scenic Railway runs daily; the Savannahlander (%07-4053 6848; www.savannahlander.com.au; tours adult/child from $380/260) offers a miscellany of rail journeys into the outback from Cairns Central Railway Station (Bunda St).

Queensland Rail (%1300 131 722; www.queenslandrailtravel.com.au) operates services between Brisbane and Cairns.

8GETTING AROUND

TO/FROM THE AIRPORT

Many hotels and hostels offer courtesy pick-up. Sun Palm meets incoming flights until about 6.30pm and runs a shuttle (adult/child $15/7.50) directly to your accommodation; its Airport Connect Shuttle ($6) runs between the airport and a stop on Sheridan St just north of town. Cairns Airport Shuttle (%0432 488 783; www.cairnsairportshuttle.com.au) is a good option for groups; the more passengers, the cheaper the fare. Taxis to the city centre cost around $25 (plus $4 airport surcharge).

TAXI

Cairns Taxis (%13 10 08, 07-4048 8333; www.cairnstaxis.com.au)

Port Douglas

Welcome to your holiday. Port Douglas (Port or PD) is equal parts flash and fun, from the million-dollar marina to the dreamy Four Mile Beach and the five-star resorts big enough to warrant their own postcode. A growing number of flashpackers, cashed-up couples and fiscally flush families choose Port Douglas over Cairns as their Far North base, and for good reason.

The peninsula was the traditional home of the Yirrganydji people.

1Sights

Wildlife Habitat Port DouglasZoo

(%07-4099 3235; www.wildlifehabitat.com.au; Port Douglas Rd; adult/child/family $36/18/90; h8am-5pm; c) S

This sanctuary endeavours to keep and showcase native animals in enclosures that mimic their natural environment, while allowing you to get up close to koalas, kangaroos, crocs, cassowaries and more. Tickets are valid for three days.

For an extra special experience book for Breakfast with the Birds (www.wildlifehabitat.com.au; Wildlife Habitat Port Douglas, Port Douglas Rd; breakfast incl admission $56; h9-10.30am; c) or Lunch with the Lorikeets (www.wildlifehabitat.com.au; Wildlife Habitat Port Douglas, Port Douglas Rd; adult incl admission $58; hnoon-2pm; c). The latest addition is the Predator Plank – a walkway across the saltwater croc enclosure. It’s 5km from town ($5 by shuttle bus).

Four Mile BeachBeach

(c)

Fringed by lazy palms, this broad stretch of squeaky sand reaches as far as you can squint. There’s a patrolled swimming area in front of the surf life-saving club (with a stinger net in summer) and sun loungers available for hire.

Trinity Bay LookoutViewpoint

(Island Point Rd) F

Head up to Flagstaff Hill for sensational views over Four Mile Beach and the Coral Sea. Drive or walk up via Wharf St, or there’s a walking path leading up from the north end of Four Mile Beach.

2Activities

Wind SwellWater Sports

(%0427 498 042; www.windswell.com.au; Barrier St; lessons from $50)

Kitesurfing and stand-up paddleboarding for everyone from beginners to high-flyers. Kitesurfing lessons and paddleboarding tours from the beach start at $50, but there are also plenty of advanced options. Find them in action at the southern end of Four Mile Beach.

TTours

QuicksilverCruise

(%07-4087 2100; www.quicksilver-cruises.com; Crystalbrook Marina; adult/child/family $257/132/625)

Major operator with fast cruises to its private pontoon on Agincourt Reef. Additional activities include an ‘ocean walk’ helmet dive ($170) on a submerged platform, introductory diving ($172), certified dive ($124) or snorkelling with a marine biologist (from $64). Also offers 10-minute scenic helicopter flights ($189, minimum two passengers).

Reef SprinterSnorkelling

(%07-4099 6127; www.reefsprinter.com.au; Shop 3, Crystalbrook Marina; adult/child from $130/110; c)

The fastest way to the reef, this 2¼-hour snorkelling trip gets to the Low Isles in just 15 minutes for one to 1½ hours in the water. Half-day outer reef trips are also available (from $200).

Tony’s Tropical ToursTours

(%07-4099 3230; www.tropicaltours.com.au; day tours adult/child from $198/178) S

This luxury, small-group (eight to 10 passengers) tour operator specialises in trips to out-of-the-way sections of the Mossman Gorge and Daintree Rainforest ($185/160 adult/child).

7Shopping

Port Douglas MarketsMarket

(Anzac Park, Macrossan St; h8am-2pm Sun)

PD’s Sunday market is legendary for its locally made crafts and jewellery, healthcare products, local tropical fruits and fresh produce.

5Eating

YachtyModern Australian$$

(%07-4099 4386; www.portdouglasyachtclub.com.au; 1 Spinnaker Close; mains $20-32; hnoon-2.30pm & 5.30-8pm)

One of the best-value nights out is the local yacht club, where well-crafted meals, from seafood pie to Thai green curry, are served nightly with sunset views over Dickson Inlet. The lunch menu is similar but cheaper.

Flames of the ForestModern Australian$$$

(%07-4099 3144; www.flamesoftheforest.com.au; dinner with show, drinks & transfers per person $192-220; hTue, Thu & Sat)

This unique experience goes way beyond the traditional concept of ‘dinner and a show’, with diners escorted deep into the rainforest for a truly immersive night of theatre, culture and gourmet cuisine. Transport provided from Port Douglas or Cairns (no self-drive). Bookings essential.

Harrisons RestaurantModern Australian$$$

(%0455 594 011; www.harrisonsrestaurant.com.au; Sheraton Grand Mirage; mains $38-54; h4pm-midnight)

Marco Pierre White–trained chef-owner Spencer Patrick whips up culinary gems that stand toe to toe with Australia’s best. Fresh, locally sourced produce is turned into dishes such as smoked duck breast and tamarind beef cheeks. Originally on Wharf St, Harrisons is now ensconsed in the flash Sheraton Grand Mirage.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Hemingway’sMicrobrewery

(%07-4099 6663; www.hemingwaysbrewery.com; Crystalbrook Marina, 44 Wharf St)

Hemingway’s makes the most of a fabulous location at the marina with a broad deck, a long bar and Dickson Inlet views. There are usually six brews on tap, including Hard Yards dark lager and Pitchfork Betty’s pale ale. Naturally, food is available, but this is one for the beer connoisseurs. A tasting paddle is $15.

8INFORMATION

There’s no official government-accredited visitor information centre in Port Douglas, but there are lots of private bookings agents, such as Port Douglas Tourist Information Centre (%07-4099 5599; www.infoportdouglas.com.au; 23 Macrossan St; h8am-6.30pm).

8GETTING THERE & AWAY

Port Douglas Bus (%07-4099 5665; www.portdouglasbus.com.au; 53-61 Macrossan St) and Sun Palm operate daily between Port Douglas, Cairns and Cairns airport.

Trans North (%07-4095 8644; www.transnorthbus.com.au) picks up in Port Douglas on the coastal drive between Cairns and Cooktown.

The Daintree

The Daintree represents many things: Unesco World Heritage–listed rainforest, a river, a reef, laid-back villages and the home of its traditional custodians, the Kuku Yalanji people.

Part of the Wet Tropics World Heritage Area, the spectacular region from the Daintree River north to Cape Tribulation features ancient rainforest, sandy beaches and rugged mountains. North of the Daintree River, electricity is supplied by generators or, increasingly, solar power. Shops and services are limited, and mobile-phone reception is patchy at best. The Daintree River Ferry (www.douglas.qld.gov.au/community/daintree-ferry; car one way/return $16/28, motorcycle $6/11, pedestrian & bicycle $1/2; h6am-midnight), one of the few cable ferries of its kind in Australia, carries wanderers and their wheels across the river every 15 minutes or so.

Mossman Gorge

In the southeast corner of Daintree National Park, 5km west of Mossman town (itself 20km north of Port Douglas), Mossman Gorge forms part of the traditional lands of the Kuku Yalanji people. The gorge is a boulder-strewn valley where sparkling water washes over ancient rocks. It’s 3km by road from the visitor centre (%07-4099 7000; www.mossmangorge.com.au; h8am-6pm) to a viewpoint and refreshing swimming hole – take care as the currents can be swift. Walk the 3km or take the shuttle bus.

Cow Bay & Around

Tiny Cow Bay is the first community you reach after the Daintree ferry crossing. The white-sand and mostly deserted Cow Bay Beach, 5km east of the main road at the end of Buchanan Creek Rd, rivals any coastal paradise.

1Sights

Daintree Discovery CentreNature Reserve

(%07-4098 9171; www.discoverthedaintree.com; Tulip Oak Rd; adult/child/family $35/16/85; h8.30am-5pm; c) S

This award-winning attraction’s aerial walkway, which includes a 23m tower used to study carbon levels, takes you high into the forest canopy. A theatre screens films on cassowaries, crocodiles, conservation and climate change. An excellent audio-guide tour and interpretive booklet is included in the admission fee; tickets are valid for re-entry for seven days.

5Eating

Daintree Ice Cream CompanyIce Cream$

(%07-4098 9114; www.daintreeicecream.com.au; Lot 100, Cape Tribulation Rd; ice-cream tasting cup $7.50; h11am-5pm)

We dare you to drive past this all-natural ice-cream producer with a range of flavours that changes daily. The tasting cup includes four flavours – you might get macadamia, black sapote, wattleseed or soursop, but they’re all delicious.

Cape Tribulation

Cape Trib is at the end of the winding sealed road from the Daintree River and, with its two magnificent beaches, Myall and Cape Tribulation, laid-back vibe and rainforest walks, it’s a little slice of tropical paradise.

TTours

Ocean SafariSnorkelling

(%07-4098 0006; www.oceansafari.com.au; Cape Tribulation Rd; adult/child/family $149/97/447; h8am & noon)

Ocean Safari leads small groups (25 people maximum) on morning and afternoon snorkelling cruises to the Great Barrier Reef, just half an hour offshore by fast inflatable. Swimming with sea turtles is a highlight. Wetsuit hire ($8) available.

Jungle Surfing Canopy ToursOutdoors

(%07-4098 0043; www.junglesurfing.com.au; Cape Tribulation Rd; zip lines $105, night walks $45; h8am-5.30pm, night walks 7.30pm)

Get right up into the rainforest on an exhilarating two-hour flying-fox (zip-line) surf through the canopy. Guided night walks follow biologist-guides who shed light on the rainforest after dark. Rates include pick-up from Cape Trib accommodation (self-drive not permitted).

Daintree Village

For wildlife lovers and birdwatchers, it’s well worth taking the 20km each-way detour from the Mossman-Daintree Rd to tiny Daintree Village, set on a plateau of farmland on the Upper Daintree River. Croc-spotting cruises are the main event.

Try long-running Crocodile Express (%07-4098 6120; www.crocodileexpress.com; 1hr cruises adult/child/family $28/14/65; hcruises 8.30am; c), Daintree River Wild Watch (%0447 734 933; www.daintreeriverwildwatch.com.au; 2hr cruises adult/child $60/35; c), which has informative sunrise birdwatching cruises and sunset photography nature cruises, or Daintree River Cruise Centre (%07-4098 6115; www.daintreerivercruisecentre.com.au; 2914 Mossman-Daintree Rd; adult/child $30/15/80; h9.30am-4pm; c).

5Eating

Mason’s Store & CafeCafe$

(%07-4098 0016; 3781 Cape Tribulation Rd; mains $9-18, tasting plates from $29; h10am-4pm)

Everyone calls into Mason’s for tourist info (%07-4098 0070; h8am-5pm), the liquor store (open until 5.30pm), or to dine out on exotic meats. Pride of place on the menu at this laid-back al fresco cafe goes to the croc burger, but you can also try camel, emu and kangaroo in burgers or tasting plates. A short walk away is a crystal-clear, croc-free swimming hole ($1).

WhetAustralian$$

(%07-4098 0007; www.whet.net.au; 1 Cape Tribulation Rd; lunch $16-20, dinner $20-35; h11am-3pm & 6-8pm) S

Whet is regarded as Cape Trib’s most sophisticated place to eat, with a loungey cocktail-bar feel and romantic, candlelit, al fresco dining. Tempura wild barramundi and house chicken curry grace the menu; all lunch dishes are under $20. You’ll often find locals at the bar and the owners pride themselves on fresh produce and eco-friendly processes.

8GETTING THERE & AWAY

The road to Cape Trib is sealed so it’s suitable for any hire vehicle.

Trans North (%07-4095 8644; www.transnorthbus.com; Cairns Central Railway Station) runs buses from Cairns to Cape Tribulation three times a week year-round.