Chapter 2
ENTERTAINING
(Divertissant)
hospitality, n.
The virtue which induces us
to feed and lodge certain
persons who are not in need
of food and lodging.
Ambrose Bierce,
The Devil’s Dictionary, 1911
Recipes featured in this chapter:
Pickling Liquid
Pickled Grapes
Figs (Figues) with Crumbled Bacon, Chili, and Honey
Oysters (Huîtres) with Calvados, Apple Cider, and Brown Butter
Crêpes with Pears (Poires), Gruyère, and Thyme
Roasted Tomato (Tomate) Jam
Roasted Carrot (Carotte) Crudités with Yogurt-Tahini Crème
Tahini Sauce
Entertaining in France—Yes, You Can!
We’ve lived in ten fascinating countries, and because Tim and I will chat up just about any living, breathing person, we usually make some friends in each of our temporary cities. We love to entertain and inviting new friends, both fellow travelers and natives, to our vacation rental gives us a way to get to know them and the country more intimately. Meeting in cafés or restaurants can be fun, but an evening at “home” encourages people to relax and be themselves.
While living in Paris, we once met a charming couple from Italy who happened to be sitting at a café table near us. Since Florence was next on our itinerary, we had lots to talk about. They were in Paris for only a few days and I impulsively invited them to dinner at our apartment. It seemed like a terrific idea when I’d had two or three glasses of wine, but the next morning I was struck with doubt. What had I been thinking? I’d invited these worldly, sophisticated people to a tiny vacation rental that had a limited supply of kitchen equipment, flatware, table linens, serving pieces, and charm. We didn’t have enough equipment to serve more than one course. I paced the apartment, a trip of about 20 steps, muttering about my fears. Tim, whose logical brain often rescues me from panic, calmed me down. Then, together, we began to strategize.
When the evening of the party arrived, we served hors d’oeuvres on the wooden cutting board. Since we had only four place settings of everything, we kept the sink filled with hot soapy water and Tim would saunter out to the kitchen after each course, wash and dry everything quickly, and then fill the plates with the next course. Finally, for dessert, we used the owner’s truly awful brandy snifters with a French soccer team’s logo to serve a berry trifle.
The evening was a great success, especially because Deborah had provided me with her recipe for Pan-Roasted Duck Breast (Magret de Canard) with Seared Mirabelle Plums (see page 125). I bought madeleines at the patisserie, and I used them as the base for a berry trifle. I’m happy to report that my invented recipe was so tasty that no one objected to eating it out of those silly-looking brandy snifters!
We had a grand time exchanging stories and discovering how much we had in common. Not once did anyone notice that we were drinking cocktails from jelly glasses and scooping up incredible sautéed foie gras from a kid’s Mickey Mouse plate.
Everywhere in our travels, we have found that people are more interested in exchanging travel tales than whether an apartment is kitted out with fine china. Entertaining is all about good conversation, good food, good wine, and sharing stories.
Dinner Guest Protocol
If you’re lucky enough to be invited to a French home for a meal, resist the temptation to bring wine as a gift. Your host has probably spent time choosing precisely the right accompaniment for each course, and he or she may be insulted if you present wine. Instead, consider some exquisite chocolates or flowers.
In France, you’ll be served the salad after the main course, followed by the cheese course, and finally dessert. Coffee is served after dessert, as its own course.
Your hands should be on the table, but never your elbows. Pay attention to other diners, and you’ll see that their left hands are not in their laps, as is the American custom, but on the table. Also, do not put your napkin in your lap until your host or hostess does so.
Cheese is rarely served as an appetizer. Bread is eaten with dinner, not before. Eat it by tearing off bite-sized pieces, not picking up the whole roll or slice. Butter is not necessary, nor is a bread plate. In France, it is common for people to put their bread on the table beside their plates.
When you are served an aperitif, wait until the host makes a toast before having your first sip. Be sure to make eye contact when you toast the other guests, saying “Santé.”
Don’t pick up food with your fingers. Use your fork, even with frites, unless you’re at a fast food joint.
Don’t make yourself a nervous wreck trying to remember the rules. If you watch your host and follow along, you’ll be just fine. Also, let’s face it, your French friends already know you’re not French, so they’ll excuse your deviation from their customs.
About Charcuterie—Grazing the French Way
If you want to make your cocktail hour easy, just visit your local charcuterie (deli), sample some wares, and pick up some tasty delights. Remember, the French do not serve cheese at the cocktail hour, but only as the course following a meal, so consider how traditional your guests are before presenting a big hunk of cheese on your coffee table.
How to Create a Beautiful Charcuterie Board
Two ounces (60 grams) of protein per person is usually enough. Don’t overdo it, unless this offering plus a salad is your whole meal or if you are entertaining a few people for cocktails and charcuterie only.
Deborah suggests that you mix up textures on a platter. You might try a hard saucisson (thick, dry-cured sausage), a supple jambon de Bayonne (ham), and a soft mousse or a rillettes (similar to pâté, but coarser). A sliced smoked duck breast would be perfect. Then add olives like picholine and/or something crunchy and pickled like cornichons, which are traditional. If you’d like to be more dashing, try making super easy pickled red onion or even pickled plums, persimmons, or grapes (Pickled Grapes, page 37). For color and texture, toss sliced fennel or radicchio leaves with lemon and olive oil.
Serve one or two proteins for a small group of guests. However, if you’ve made a lot of new friends and they are all coming for cocktails, then the sky’s the limit. Serve charcuterie with sliced bread or some French crackers. Mustard is also a great accompaniment. And a bowl of nuts or olives will probably disappear in a hurry.
You can jazz up your presentation by scattering full-leafed herbs like basil, parsley, or thyme around your gorgeous platter. Although not traditional, they are an attractive, tasty herbal accompaniment.
CHARCUTERIE BOARD
HERE ARE SOME excellent ideas from Deborah for distinctive items you can add to your charcuterie presentation. You can keep them on hand for other uses.
Pickling Liquid
makes about 2 cups 
For pickling red onion, shallots, peaches, plums, persimmons, pears, blueberries, cherries, or dried currants—use your imagination.
Ingredients
1 cup (250 ml) vinegar (red wine, champagne, or another mild favorite)
1 cup (250 ml) water
½ cup (100 g) sugar
1 tablespoon (20 g) salt
Suggested spices, if you have them: anise, cinnamon, peppercorns, juniper, rosemary, bay leaf, red pepper flakes
Equipment
Jar or bowl
Knife for slicing
Measuring cups and spoons
Saucepan
Strainer
Method
1. Slice or cut the items to be pickled and put in a jar or bowl.
2. Heat all ingredients in a small saucepan over medium heat until simmering. Let simmer about 2 minutes and then let cool about 10 minutes.
3. Strain the liquid and pour over (to cover) whatever is to be pickled.
4. Cover the bowl (with a lid, plastic wrap, or even a plate) and let sit overnight, refrigerated.
5. Use within 1 week.
Variations, Ideas, Suggestions
• We love pickled blueberries poured over goat cheese, on a pork chop, or spooned over a duck breast. If you would like to use a pickled item this way, first add ½ cup more sugar to the pickling liquid and reduce by half over medium heat, until slightly syrupy. Let cool slightly and then pour over the items to be pickled. Spoon some of these blueberries over blue cheese-stuffed Belgian endive.
• You can keep a jar of crispy pickled red onions or shallots in the refrigerator for quite a while, and you’ll be so happy to find them there when you have a mad desire to dress up whatever you’re cooking. Imagine them on top of grilled chicken or a seared steak, or in a duck crêpe.
Note: Don’t put your nose over the pot when heating or reducing pickling liquid to smell the aroma. You’ll end up coughing because it’s a little potent. You may want to open the windows while you’re doing this but believe us, it’s worth the effort!
Pickled Grapes
makes about 1½ cups (350 ml)
Serve with pâté and toasts as an hors d’oeuvre.
Ingredients
½ cup (125 ml) red wine vinegar
½ cup (100 g) sugar
1 teaspoon (5 g) salt
¼ teaspoon (2 g) red pepper flakes
1 teaspoon (5 g) mustard seeds
1 small sprig rosemary
1 cup (250 g) red seedless grapes, cut in half lengthwise
Equipment
Jar or small bowl
Measuring cups and spoons
Paring or chef’s knife
Slotted spoon
Small saucepan
Method
1. Simmer everything but the grapes in a saucepan on medium until reduced by about half or until the liquid coats the back of a spoon.
2. Let cool to warm. Pour over grapes.
3. Fish out the rosemary and refrigerate until ready to use.
Pairing Champagne, Pinot Blanc, or Côtes du Rhône
Variations, Ideas, Suggestions Serve spooned over toasts smeared with pâté or pour over fresh chèvre. These grapes are also wonderful on a pork chop stuffed with Gruyère and fresh sage.
HORS D’OEUVRES
THE PHRASE hors d’oeuvre literally means “outside the work,” which loosely means outside of the main work of the meal, such as the seated courses. In France, people do not generally fuss much over this course, and sometimes you’ll be served merely some nuts and olives with perhaps one more item. Take your pick of the following recipes and be prepared to wow your new French buddies.
Figs (Figues) with Crumbled
Bacon, Chili, and Honey
serves 4
There is a short fig season at the beginning of the summer and a longer one in the fall. Figs are delicate, so handle them carefully. Don’t buy figs that are leaking or look milky around the stem. If they’re green and firm, they aren’t ripe. Use them within a couple of days after buying, and keep them at room temperature to avoid losing any of their delicious flavor.
Ingredients
8 fresh figs, cut in half lengthwise
6 ounces (170 grams) bacon or lardons (similar to cubes of bacon)
¼ cup (60 ml) honey
¼ cup (60 ml) red wine vinegar
½ teaspoon (4 g) red pepper flakes
1 teaspoon (5 g) chopped fresh thyme
Equipment
Knife for slicing and chopping
Measuring spoons
Medium sauté pan
Platter or large plate
Method
1. Place figs cut side up on a large plate or platter.
2. Cook bacon in sauté pan over medium-low heat until golden and crispy.
3. Remove bacon. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons (30 ml) of fat (save for another use).
4. Add honey and vinegar to pan and reduce about 2 minutes, until syrupy.
5. Roughly chop the bacon with the pepper flakes.
6. Drizzle the warm liquid over fig halves and pile bacon-pepper mixture on each fig half.
7. Sprinkle with thyme.
8. Serve to your happy people.
Variations, Ideas, Suggestions If you happen to have some blue cheese in the fridge, try chopping that up with the bacon and pepper flakes and then pile on top of each fig half. If you are using smaller figs, cut off the stem and cut a hash mark in the top of each fig and stuff each fig with the blue cheese, bacon, and pepper flakes.
Oysters (Huîtres) with Calvados, Apple Cider, and Brown Butter
serves 4
This recipe is inspired by the oysters Deborah often begs her great friend Thad Tuck to make for her. He makes them with bourbon, but she changed it up a bit when in France since there was Calvados in the cupboard and no bourbon in sight.
You will need an oyster shucker for this recipe. It will be worth it. Buy an inexpensive one if there isn’t one in your rental. Do not use a knife to shuck because you might injure yourself.
Ingredients
4 tablespoons (60 ml) butter
1 teaspoon (4 g) salt
¼ cup (60 ml) Calvados
3 tablespoons (45 ml) apple cider
1 teaspoon (5 ml) lemon juice
12 fresh, live oysters
1 pound (½ kg) rock salt
Equipment
Dish towel
Large baking pan or ovenproof platter
Oyster shucker
Small saucepan
Method
1. In a small saucepan, melt the butter and let simmer until golden brown. Immediately add salt, Calvados, apple cider, and lemon juice slowly. It will bubble up so be careful.
2. Place the oysters in a large baking pan on a bed of rock salt. Broil until they start to open (or put in your oven as hot as it will go). They will make small popping noises when they are done, so listen for that.
3. Protecting your hand with a dish towel, place the deep side of the oyster in your palm and shuck the oysters, being careful not to lose too much of their juices. (See “How to Shuck an Oyster” below for more instructions.) Place back on the rock salt.
4. Spoon the warm Calvados sauce onto each oyster. Serve immediately. Swoon.
HOW TO SHUCK AN OYSTER
Pairing Muscadet or Calvados; champagne or a crisp Chablis are also great accompaniments.
Crêpes with Pears (Poires), Gruyère, and Thyme
serves 4
Deborah’s close friend Pierre brought a big package of crêpes to us when we arrived in Paris for an extended visit. There were so many that Deborah had to dig deep to find ways to use them all. This dish was a favorite at cocktail parties.
Ingredients
4 crêpes (purchased in a package from the market!)
½ cup (120 g) shredded Gruyère
1 tablespoon (15 g) minced thyme
4 tablespoons (60 ml) butter, divided
2 pears, cored and sliced thinly from top to bottom
Sea salt
Equipment
Knife for slicing, mincing, and cutting
Large sauté pan
Method
1. Prepare this as if you’re making a quesadilla. On each crêpe, scatter the cheese and thyme on one half only.
2. In a large sauté pan on medium-high heat, melt 2 tablespoons of the butter until bubbling. Add the pear slices and sauté until lightly caramelized, about 2 minutes on each side. Season with salt. Divide the cooked pears on top of the cheese side of the crêpe. Fold in half and gently press down.
3. In the same sauté pan, on medium heat, melt one tablespoon of the remaining butter until just starting to bubble. Add two of the crêpes and cook on one side about one minute, until golden, then flip over and do the same until golden. Repeat this for the other two crêpes.
4. Cut into small wedges and serve.
Pairing These crêpes are fabulous with some ice-cold hard cider or champagne.
Variations, Ideas, Suggestions Trying making some crêpes with the following combinations:
• Duck confit, chèvre, peaches, and thyme. Sauté in duck fat! Oh, my.
• Fresh fig, jambon de Bayonne (similar to prosciutto), caramelized shallot, and Brie.
• Roasted asparagus, raclette, and jambon.
Roasted Tomato (Tomate) Jam
makes about 1½ cups (350 ml)
You’ll find that this tomato jam will be a must-have in your refrigerator because it can be used for so many things. Be sure to use ripe tomatoes! Put this out for your cocktail guests with some crusty bread and potted smoked whitefish brandade that you’ve purchased.
Ingredients
1½ pounds (680 g) small ripe tomatoes, such as cherry, grape, or San Marzano, cut in half lengthwise, or coarsely chopped if they are larger
¼ cup (50 g) brown sugar
½ cup (100 g) sugar
2 tablespoons (30 ml) fresh lime juice
1 tablespoon (15 ml) vinegar (red wine preferred)
1 tablespoon (15 g) freshly grated ginger
1 teaspoon (5 g) salt
½ teaspoon (4 g) piment d’espelette or red pepper flakes, if you like things a bit spicier
1 teaspoon (5 g) cumin
¼ teaspoon (1.5 g) cinnamon
Pinch of ground clove
Crusty bread and smoked whitefish brandade, for serving
Equipment
Grater
Heavy medium saucepan
Knife for chopping
Measuring cups and spoons
Method
1. Combine all ingredients, except the bread and brandade, in the saucepan and bring to a boil over medium heat.
2. Reduce heat and simmer, occasionally stirring until the mixture has a thick, jam-like consistency. This will take a little more than an hour.
3. Taste and adjust seasoning, and let cool.
4. If it’s too thick for your purposes after it has cooled, then add a tablespoon of water and stir. Repeat until it has reached the desired consistency.
5. Will keep refrigerated for about a week.
6. Serve with crusty bread and smoked whitefish brandade as an appetizer.
Pairing Champagne or Chenin Blanc
Variations, Ideas, Suggestions
• Also excellent with a smear of fromage blanc or a slice of hard cheese on your crusty bread.
• Try this tomato jam loosened up a bit with a drizzle of water, swirled in a pan, and then poured over pan-roasted halibut. Fry up some capers and sprinkle over the top.
Roasted Carrot (Carotte) Crudités with Yogurt-Tahini Crème
serves 4
This is a refreshing change from ordinary raw vegetables and dip. Deborah made this up one night when unexpected guests knocked on the door. The refrigerator yielded nothing but some gorgeous multicolored carrots, so she invented this unusual treat on the spot. The guests devoured every one.
Ingredients
20 small farm fresh carrots of various colors, tops attached
3 tablespoons (45 ml) olive oil
3 tablespoons (45 ml) melted butter
Sea salt
3 tablespoons (45 g) ras el hanout, divided (Moroccan spice blend—see Note on page 49)
Equipment
Baking sheet
Knife for chopping
Measuring spoons
Vegetable peeler or paring knife
Method
1. With a vegetable peeler or paring knife, peel the carrots. This is optional as we don’t always peel carrots. Cut the carrot greens off, leaving about ½ inch (1.25 cm) of the tops.
2. Finely chop just the leafy part of the carrot tops for garnish (optional). Discard the stem parts.
3. Preheat oven to 450°F (230°C).
4. On a baking sheet, toss the prepared carrots with the olive oil, the melted butter, some sea salt, and 2 tablespoons of the ras el hanout. Arrange in one layer and sprinkle generously with the remaining ras el hanout.
5. Bake for about 12 minutes, checking for doneness with a fork. They should be just barely fork tender but should give the fork a little resistance. You don’t want them to be mushy. Also, you are cooking them in a very hot oven so that they will brown. Color is good! Color adds flavor.
6. Remove the carrots from the oven. Serve warm (not hot) or at room temperature on a large plate or platter with the Yogurt-Tahini Crème for dipping. Sprinkle the carrots with more sea salt and the minced carrot greens, if you wish.
7. Delight your guests!
Tips: When arranging the carrots on the baking sheet, have the points meet in the middle since the tips cook faster and the edges of the pan will be hotter. Do not crowd the carrots. They must be in a single layer. If necessary, use two pans. If the carrots are crowded, they will steam instead of roast and the result will be a sad mush with no color.
Yogurt-Tahini Crème
makes about 1 cup (240 ml)
This crème is so delightful that people will be asking you for the recipe after their first bite.
Ingredients
½ cup (120 ml) full-fat yogurt
½ cup (120 ml) Tahini Sauce (recipe follows)
Juice from ¼ lemon, preferably Meyer
1 teaspoon (4 g) ras el hanout or your own spice blend (see Note)
½ teaspoon (2 g) finely minced garlic
1 tablespoon (15 ml) olive oil
Equipment
Small bowl
Spoon
Method
1. Mix all ingredients together. How easy can it get?
Note: Ras el hanout is a North African spice blend. If you can’t find it premixed in the store, that’s okay; you can make your own. There is no one way to make it, and families and shops in North Africa create their own blends. Commonly used ingredients include, but are not limited to, nutmeg, allspice, ground ginger, turmeric, fenugreek, paprika, cardamom, cumin, clove, mace, cinnamon, and some kind of chili pepper. If you have a few of these ingredients, mix them together to make your own blend. Last time, in a rental, we mixed cinnamon, cumin, paprika, and clove. It turned out great.
Tahini Sauce
makes about 3/4 cup (180 ml)
Once you make tahini sauce, you will want it to become a staple in your refrigerator. Use it to thicken and flavor salad dressings, drizzle over roasted vegetables, or include as an ingredient in dips.
Ingredients
½ cup (120 ml) tahini (ground sesame seed paste sometimes called tahin purée)
3-5 tablespoons water (45-75 ml), room temperature
2 cloves garlic, minced into a paste (see Note)
3 tablespoons (45 ml) lemon juice
2 tablespoons (30 ml) olive oil
½ teaspoon (3 g) sea salt
Cumin, coriander, or paprika (optional)
Equipment
Chef’s knife
Measuring cups and spoons
Small bowl
Method
1. In a small bowl, stir the tahini and 3 tablespoons water until smooth. At first, it’s going to seem as if it’s seizing up, but don’t worry, it will work like magic when you are finished.
2. Add the garlic paste, lemon juice, olive oil, and salt. Stir until smooth.
3. Add a tiny bit more water if necessary. Purchased tahini can vary in thickness.
4. Add some spices such as cumin, coriander, or paprika if you like.
5. Adjust seasonings as needed—perhaps you would like more lemon or garlic. This sauce will keep up to a week in the refrigerator.
Note: To make garlic paste, peel and finely mince the garlic cloves. Drag the flat side of a chef’s knife over the garlic, scraping it across the surface of the cutting board. Pile up the garlic again then repeat a few more times until the garlic is a smooth paste. If you are having trouble making the garlic paste, just chop it very finely. Or, if you’re lucky and have a garlic press, use that.
Variations, Ideas, Suggestions
• Try this recipe with roasted beets, cauliflower, or parsnips. Or mix it up. Just watch your cooking times and temps.
• Try cutting fingerling potatoes in half lengthwise, toss with olive oil and salt, and season with ras el hanout. Roast in a hot oven until golden. Or, since you’re in France, why not use duck fat instead of olive oil? To die for!