NEAR THE RIVER, ON THE NORTH BANK
ACROSS THE RIVER, ON THE SOUTH BANK
Map: Frankfurt Hotels & Restaurants
APPLE-WINE PUBS IN SACHSENHAUSEN
NEAR THE TRAIN STATION, ON AND NEAR KAISERSTRASSE
Frankfurt, while low on Old World charm, offers a good look at today’s no-nonsense, modern Germany. There’s so much more to this country than castles and old cobbled squares. Ever since the early Middle Ages, when—as the city’s name hints—this was a good place to ford the river, people have gathered here to trade. Frankfurt is a pragmatic city, and its decisions are famously based on what’s good for business. Destroyed in World War II? Make that an opportunity to rebuild for trade better than ever. And that’s what they did.
With trade came people from around the world. Cosmopolitan Frankfurt—nicknamed “Bankfurt”—is a business hub of the united Europe and home to the European Central Bank. Especially in the area around the train station, you’ll notice the fascinating multiethnic flavor of the city. A quarter of its 700,000 residents carry foreign passports. Though it’s often avoided by tourists who consider it just a sterile business and transportation hub, Frankfurt’s modern energy, fueled in part by the entrepreneurial spirit of its immigrant communities, makes it a unique and entertaining city well worth a look. And if you visit on a Sunday, when Frankfurt takes the day off from its usual hustle and bustle, you’ll find a city cloaked in a village-like charm.
You might fly into or out of Frankfurt am Main, or at least pass through, as this glossy city links the best wine-and-castles stretch of the Rhine to the north with the fairy-tale Romantic Road to the south. Even two or three hours in Frankfurt leaves you with some powerful impressions: The city’s main sights can be enjoyed in a half-day by using its train station (a 12-minute ride from the airport) as a springboard. At a minimum, ride up to the top of the Main Tower for commanding city views and wander through the pedestrian zone to the Old Town area (Römerberg). My self-guided walk provides a framework for your explorations. With more time or an overnight, Frankfurt has plenty of museums and other attractions to choose from.
Frankfurt, with its forest of skyscrapers perched on the banks of the Main (pronounced “mine”) River, has been dubbed Germany’s “Mainhattan.” The city is Germany’s trade and banking capital, leading the country in high-rises (mostly bank headquarters)...and yet, a third of Frankfurt is green space.
The convention center (Messe) and the red light district are near the train station. Just to the east is the skyscraper banking district and the shopping and pedestrian area around the distinctive Hauptwache building. Beyond that is what remains of Frankfurt’s Old Town, around Römerberg, the city’s central market square. A short walk across the river takes you to a different part of town: Frankfurt’s top museums line the south bank of the Main, and nearby is Sachsenhausen, a charming residential neighborhood and schmaltzy restaurant zone.
Frankfurt has several TIs. The handiest is just inside the train station’s main entrance (Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00, Sat-Sun 9:00-18:00, tel. 069/212-38800, www.frankfurt-tourismus.de). Another TI is on Römerberg square (Mon-Fri 9:30-17:30, Sat-Sun until 16:00); there’s also one at the airport. At any TI, buy the city/subway map (the basic €0.60 version is fine). The TI also offers city bus tours and walking tours (see “Tours in Frankfurt,” later).
Discount Deals: Two worthwhile discount passes compete for your attention, both sold at local TIs. The Museumsufer Ticket includes entry into 34 museums (€18, €28 family ticket; valid 2 days). The Frankfurt Card gives you a transit pass (including connections to and from the airport), up to 50 percent off all major museums, and 20 percent off the TI’s walking tours, which virtually pays for the pass (€10.50/1 day, €15.50/2 days; group rate for 2-5 people-€20.50/1 day, €30.50/2 days). These are both good deals and worth considering if you’ll be taking public transportation and visiting several sights. A third pass, the RheinMainCard, offers free public transportation and discounts on regional sights, but only travelers with time and interest for farther-flung destinations will find it worth the price (€22, group rate for 2-5 people-€46; valid 2 days).
By Train: Frankfurt’s main train station (Hauptbahnhof) bustles with travelers. The TI is in the main hall just inside the front door on the left, lockers are along track 24, and the post office is across from track 24 (closed Sun). Pay WCs and showers are down the stairway by tracks 9 and 10. Inquire about train tickets in the Reisezentrum, off the main hall (long hours daily).
Getting out of the station can be a bit tricky. Use the underground passageway (Bahnhofspassage) and follow the signs, or better yet, exit straight out the main door located in the middle of the terminal to reach a crosswalk. The station is a 20-minute walk from the convention center (Messe), a three-minute subway ride or 20-minute walk from Römerberg, and a 12-minute train ride from the airport. A taxi stand is just outside the main entrance of the train station to your left.
By Plane: See “Frankfurt Connections,” at the end of this chapter.
By Car: Follow signs for Frankfurt, then Messe, and finally Hauptbahnhof (train station). The Hauptbahnhof garage (€35/day) is under the station, near most recommended hotels. For information on parking elsewhere in Frankfurt, visit www.parkhausfrankfurt.de.
Museum Hours: Most museums are closed Monday. Many stay open until 20:00 on Wednesday.
Festivals and Events: Frankfurt keeps a busy and fun-loving calendar of events. When you’re there, be sure to check out what’s happening.
Laundry: Miele Wash World near the station is small and often crowded, with loud music from the next-door kiosk likely at night (Moselstrasse 17, by the corner of Münchener Strasse, signs in English). In Sachsenhausen, by the recommended Fichtekränzi restaurant, is a Wasch Treff (Wallstrasse 8, instructions in German only). Both are open Monday-Saturday 6:00-23:00 (closed Sun).
Supermarket: A small but well-stocked REWE is near the station, across the street from the recommended Hotel Concorde (Mon-Sat 7:00-22:00, closed Sun, Karlstrasse 4, use Kaiserstrasse exit from underground passageway). For a quick snack, a REWE To Go minimarket offers a salad bar and sandwich counter (Mon-Fri 6:00-24:00, Sat-Sun 8:00-22:00, Kaiserstrasse 48). A larger REWE is in the basement of the MyZeil shopping center near the Hauptwache, in the center of town (Mon-Sat 7:00-24:00, closed Sun). On Sundays (when many stores are closed), you’ll find a pharmacy and a grocery store in the underground section of the station (open until 20:00).
Theater: English Theatre Frankfurt is the most active English-language theater on the Continent, hosting companies from the UK and the US. The quality is good and the delightful theater is small, so it books up well in advance (Gallusanlage 7, tel. 069/242-31620, www.english-theatre.de).
Helpful Website: For highlights of the best Frankfurt events and sights, get the inside scoop from veteran tour guides Jodean and David Ator at http://frankfurt-on-foot-cityguide.blogspot.com.
By Public Transportation: Frankfurt’s subway (U-Bahn) and suburban train (S-Bahn) network is easy to use, but trams are more convenient and give you a better look at the city. For transit information in English, see www.rmv.de/en.
For all forms of public transit, buy your tickets (Fahrkarten) from an RMV machine (carry cash, some machines don’t accept US credit cards). Tickets are issued with a validating stamp already on them, and are valid only immediately after they’re bought. Choose the British flag to see the menu in English. If you don’t see your destination listed, type “Frankfurt” first, along with the name of your stop. Choose a regular single ticket (€2.90), short ride ticket (€1.85—valid destinations listed on machines), all-day pass (€7.20 without the airport, €9.10 with), or all-day group ticket (up to 5 adults, €11.30 without the airport, €15.80 with). If you’ll be going to or from the airport, note that the one-day Frankfurt Card (described earlier, under “Tourist Information”) costs just a bit more than the all-day transit pass and includes sightseeing discounts. An individual one-way ticket to the airport costs €4.80 (no group rate for airport-only trips).
By Taxi: A typical ride, such as from the train station to Römerberg square, should cost €7 (up to €10 in slow traffic). A ride to the airport from my recommended hotels is about €30.
Double-decker hop-on, hop-off buses give you an easy orientation to Frankfurt. Two bus companies offer one-hour tours, each with about 14 stops. There’s also a “Skyline Tour” that focuses on city architecture. For information and tickets, visit the TI (departures daily 9:30-17:00, about every 30 minutes from train station or near St. Paul’s Church).
These tours are relaxing but pretty boring (with no medieval castles in sight). You can go an hour in either direction or take a grand two-hour ride (departures from near the Eiserner Steg pedestrian bridge). You’ll see the impressive skyline, but a river ride in the Romantic Rhine gorge is far more interesting.
Frankfurt on Foot’s three-hour walks, led by longtime Frankfurt residents (and Ohio natives) Jodean Ator and her husband David, hit the major sights and make Frankfurt’s history meaningful (€14, €1 discount with this book, basic walk leaves daily at 10:30 from Römer/Paulskirche tram stop—just show up, private walking tours-€50/hour, mobile 01520-846-4200, www.frankfurtonfoot.com, info@frankfurtonfoot.com). Their flexible “Frankfurt Layover Tour” is ideal for those with long Frankfurt Airport layovers and includes pickup and drop-off at the airport.
The TI offers one-hour walking tours of the historic center (€9.90, daily at 10:30 and 14:30, less frequent off-season). They also give €14, two-hour weekend walks on varying themes, such as history, architecture, banking, and apple wine (April-Oct). Reserve ahead by phone, online, or via email (20 percent discount with Frankfurt Card, tours depart from the Römerberg TI; tel. 069/2123-8800, www.frankfurt-tourismus.de, info@infofrankfurt.de).
Elisabeth Lücke is a brilliant guide who loves her city and shares it very well (€70/hour, cash only, reserve in advance, tel. 06196/45787, mobile 0173-913-3157, www.elisabeth-luecke.de, elisabeth.luecke@t-online.de). She enjoys tailoring tours (for example, to the IG Farben building, a.k.a. the “Pentagon of Europe”) for military personnel once based around here.
▲▲Brothels
Frankfurt’s Good-Living People Zone
▲St. Paul’s Church (Paulskirche)
St. Bartholomew’s Cathedral (Kaiserdom)
(See “Frankfurt” map, here.)
This self-guided sightseeing walk, worth ▲▲, shows you both the new Frankfurt and the old. Starting at the main train station (Hauptbahnhof), it takes you past junkies and brothels, up the Main Tower, through the modern shopping and eating districts, and into the lively square at the center of the Old Town (where you could continue on to the Holocaust Memorial), before finishing on a bridge overlooking the city and its river. Allow three leisurely hours to complete the full walk. To trace the route, see the map on here.
Frankfurt has Germany’s busiest train station: 350,000 travelers make their way to 24 platforms to catch 1,800 trains every day. Hop a train and you can be in either Paris or Berlin in around four hours. While it was big news when it opened in the 1890s, it’s a dead-end terminus station, which, with today’s high-speed trains, makes it outdated. Complaining that it takes an extra 20 minutes to stop here, railway officials threatened to have the speedy ICE trains bypass Frankfurt altogether unless it dug a tunnel to allow for a faster pass-through stop. But this proved too expensive, and—while some trains stop only at the pass-through airport station—most fast trains begrudgingly serve downtown Frankfurt.
Leaving through the front door, walk directly away from the station to the traffic island facing the pedestrian Kaiserstrasse, and turn to look back at the building’s Neo-Renaissance facade—a style popular with Industrial Revolution-era architects. This classic late 19th-century glass-and-iron construction survived World War II. High above, a statue of Atlas carries the world—but only with some heavy-duty help: Green copper figures representing steam power and electricity pitch in. The 1890s were a confident age, when people believed that technology would solve the world’s problems.
• With your back to the station, look down...
This grand 19th-century boulevard features appropriately elegant facades that were designed to dress up the approach to what was a fine new station. Towering above and beyond the 100-year-old buildings are the skyscrapers of Frankfurt’s banking district. Until a few years ago, the street was rife with local riffraff. But city officials have directed that crowd a couple of blocks to the left, and Kaiserstrasse is fast becoming a people-friendly eating zone.
Warning and Alternate Route: This walk now goes into a neighborhood of hard-drug users and prostitutes. If you use common sense, it’s not dangerous, but it can be unnerving, and is creepy at any time of day.
If you’d rather go directly to the Banking District and the Main Tower, simply walk straight down Kaiserstrasse four blocks to the park and skip ahead to “Banking District” on here.
• Walk down Kaiserstrasse, one block away from the station. If you’re game, jog left on Moselstrasse and walk a block to the corner of Taunusstrasse. This is where the city contains and controls its sex-and-drug scene. To the right, Taunusstrasse is lined half with brothels and half with bank towers. And across Taunusstrasse and farther down Moselstrasse is a heroin-maintenance clinic, known here as a “drug-consumption room.”
A half-block down Moselstrasse, on the left, you’ll probably see a gang congregating at Café Fix at #47. This is one of several “junkie cafés” in Frankfurt (no photos allowed).
In the 1980s Frankfurt was plagued by one of the largest open drug markets in Europe. Its parks (and police) were overwhelmed with needle addicts. Then Frankfurt decided to get creative, take the crime out of the equation, and go for a pragmatic harm-reduction approach.
In 1992, Frankfurt began offering “pump rooms” to its hard-drug users. The idea: Provide a safe haven for addicts (mostly heroin, but also crack and methadone) to hygienically maintain their habit. Heroin addicts still buy their stuff on the street, but inject it here with clean needles, with medical help standing by, and a place to stay if needed. It’s strictly not for first-time users and no dealing or sharing of drugs is allowed. These centers provide a safe and caring place for addicts to go to maintain their habit and get counseling and medical help. These days, overdose deaths are down 75 percent in general, and there’s never been a death in a drug-consumption room. Locals consider the program a success and are accustomed to wasted people congregating in neighborhoods like this one. While unsightly, the compassionate harm-reduction approach that much of Europe uses to deal with this problem saves lives. Meanwhile, the US continues to suffer about double the heroin-related deaths per capita as Europe.
• Now for the sex. Take a right on Taunusstrasse and walk to Elbestrasse.
From Taunusstrasse, look or turn left down Elbestrasse, where you’ll find a row of high-rise brothels, or “eros towers.” With all the businessmen coming into town, Frankfurt found there was no effective way to outlaw prostitution. So the city (like any German city over a certain population threshold) decided to corral prostitution in what it calls a “tolerance area.”
About 20 five-story brothels fill original, late-19th-century apartment flats within a block of this spot. Perfectly legal since 2002, prostitution is big business here. The women, who are mostly from Eastern Europe, Latin America, and Thailand (only about 2 percent are from Germany), essentially run their own little businesses. They charge around €20 for services and rent their rooms for about €130 a day. It’s said that they cover their rent by the end of the businessmen’s lunch break (look at the bank towers nearby). German sex workers get health care just like any other workers and pay taxes (on €14 billion of declared income each year).
Crazy Sexy, at Elbestrasse 51, is the biggest of these brothels, with 180 rooms. The first three floors are for women. The fourth floor is for transvestites. (I was told, “A sex change is expensive, and many of these ‘she-males’ or ‘lady boys’ are making money to pay for their operation.”)
Climbing through a few of these towers may be one of the more memorable experiences of your European trip. But while hiking through the towers feels safe, the aggressive women at the neighboring strip shows can be unsettling.
Ever since the Middle Ages, Frankfurt’s prostitution industry has gone hand-in-hand with its trade fairs. Today, prostitution thrives with the Messe (convention center). Both hotels and prostitutes double their prices during big trade fairs. Prostitutes note that business varies with the theme of the trade show—the auto show is boom time and the butchers’ convention is famously hungry, but Frankfurt’s massive book fair is a bust.
To the right of Taunusstrasse, at Elbestrasse 31, is a strip joint called Pik-Dame. Old-timers are nostalgic about this lone remnant from “the good old days” in the years after World War II, when 30,000 US soldiers stationed in Frankfurt provided a stimulus for this neighborhood’s economy. When the troops left, the Russian mob moved in, replacing any old-time gentility with a criminal and thuggish edge. (Note that there’s another drug-consumption center across the street from Pik-Dame.)
Also across the street (at Elbestrasse 34), look for an inconspicuous, dark door, which leads to a cocktail bar, The Kinly. Like a Prohibition-era speakeasy, it has no signs, just a call button by the door. Press it, wait for the door to open, then descend the stairs into a cozy, softly lit salon right out of the 1920s (Mon-Sat 19:00-late, closed Sun).
• Enough sex and drugs. Continue down Taunusstrasse out of the red light district and into the banking district. Look up and see why this city (on the Main River) is nicknamed “Mainhattan.” Cross the street to the park.
Find the statue of the poet Schiller (a Romantic and friend of Goethe), on your left. This park is part of a greenbelt that encircles the old center and marks the site of Frankfurt’s medieval moat and fortifications. These walls (along with many castles on the Rhine) were destroyed by the French in 1806. Napoleon had just beaten the Austrians and Russians at Austerlitz, and, since he had the upper hand, he figured it was wise to preemptively obliterate any German fortifications that might haunt him if the Germans turned against France in the future.
The park is the center of Frankfurt’s banking district. The post-WWII Marshall Plan was administered from here—requiring fancy money-handling. And the mighty deutsche mark was born in a 1930s-era building facing the park (in the third building, a low Art Deco mansion, now a Deutsche Bundesbank headquarters, on the left of the square as you entered). After World War II, Germany’s economy was in chaos. In 1948, the US gave it a complete currency transfer—like a blood transfusion—literally printing up the new deutsche marks and shipping them across the Atlantic to inject them from here directly into the German economy. As if catching water from a fountain, banks naturally grew up around this square.
But Frankfurt was “Bankfurt” long before World War II. This was the Rothschilds’ hometown. Born in Frankfurt’s Jewish ghetto in 1744, Mayer Rothschild went from being a pauper to the richest banker in the world in one lifetime. His five sons set up businesses in Rome, London, Paris, and Vienna, and in two generations the Rothschild banking dynasty was established. (Their former palace now houses Frankfurt’s Jewish Museum—described on here; may be closed for renovation). Today, locals call Frankfurt’s legion of bankers “penguins,” as they all dress the same. Tour guides here talk of banks as part of the cultural soil (the way French Riviera guides talk of the big yachts).
Beyond the statue of Schiller stand the twin towers of the Deutsche Bank (not to be confused with the DB—Deutsche Bahn—tower to your left). This country’s #1 bank, its assets are greater than the annual budget of the German government. If money makes the world go round, the decisions that spin Germany are made in Frankfurt.
Make a 360-degree spin and survey all the bank towers. Notice the striking architecture. By law, no German worker can be kept out of natural light for more than four hours, so work environments are filled with windows. And, as you can see, Germans like their skyscrapers with windows that open.
• Find the skyscraper with the red-and-white candy cane on top. That’s your destination—the Main Tower. To reach it, continue straight along Taunustor a block, then turn left on Neue Mainzer Strasse and look for the tower symbol on the doors on the right.
Finished in 2000, this tower houses the Helaba Bank and offers the best (and only public) open-air viewpoint from the top of a Frankfurt skyscraper. A 55-second, ear-popping elevator ride to the 54th floor (watch the meter on the wall as you ascend) and then 50 stairs take you to the rooftop, 650 feet above the city.
Cost and Hours: €7.50, 20 percent discount with Frankfurt Card; Sun-Thu 10:00-21:00, Fri-Sat until 23:00; closes earlier off-season and during bad weather; enter at Neue Mainzer Strasse 52, between Taunustor and Junghofstrasse, tel. 069/3650-4878, www.maintower.de.
Self-Guided Spin-Tour: Here, from Frankfurt’s ultimate viewpoint, survey the city by circling clockwise, starting with the biggest skyscraper (with the yellow emblem).
Designed by Norman Foster (of Berlin Reichstag and London City Hall fame), the Commerzbank building was finished in 1997. It’s 985 feet high, with nine winter gardens spiraling up its core and windows that open. It’s considered the first ecological skyscraper...radically “green” in its day. Just to the left is Römerberg—the Old Town center (the half-timbered houses huddled around the red-and-white church with a green spire; we’ll visit there soon).
The Museum Embankment (see here) lines Schaumainkai on the far side of the Main River, just beyond the new Taunus Tower.
The Rhine-Main airport, off in the distance (like a city in the forest), is the largest employment complex in Germany, with 70,000 workers. Frankfurt’s massive train station dominates the foreground. From the station, the grand Kaiserstrasse cuts through the city to Römerberg.
The Frankfurt fair (Messe), marked by the brown skyscraper with the pointy top, is a huge convention center—the size of 40 soccer fields. It sprawls behind the skyscraper that looks like a classical column sporting a visor-like capital. (The protruding lip of the capital is heated so that icicles don’t form, break off, and impale people on the street below.) Frankfurt’s fair originated in 1240, when the emperor promised all participating merchants safe passage. The glassy black twin towers of the Deutsche Bank in the foreground (nicknamed “Debit and Credit”) are typical of mid-1980s mirrored architecture.
The West End, with vast green spaces and the telecommunications tower, is Frankfurt’s priciest residential quarter. The city’s most enjoyable zone cuts from the West End to the right. Stretching from the classic-looking Opera House below are broad and people-filled boulevards made to order for eating and shopping. Find the “Beach Club” filling the rooftop of a parking garage with white tents, two pools, and colorful lounge chairs. This is a popular family zone by day and a chic club after dark.
From here, you can see how the city walls, demolished in 1806, left a string of green zones arcing out from the river. This defined the city limits in the 19th century.
Take a moment from this vantage point to trace the rest of this walk: from the Opera House, along the tree-lined eating and shopping boulevards to St. Paul’s Church and Römerberg. After side-tripping from Römerberg out to the cathedral, we’ll finish on Eiserner Steg, the iron pedestrian bridge over the Main River.
Now look east, farther out along the river, to the glistening twin towers (standing all alone). At 600 feet tall, these are the striking headquarters of the European Central Bank.
As you leave the Main Tower, step into the Helaba Bank lobby (next door over from base of elevator). A black-and-white mosaic filling the wall shows cultural superstars of 20th-century Frankfurt, from composer Paul Hindemith to industrialist and humanitarian Oskar Schindler to Anne Frank (see the key on the post nearby for a who’s who).
• Exit right from the Main Tower and continue walking along Neue Mainzer Strasse (crossing Junghofstrasse) for a couple of blocks, to where you see a large square open to your left. Across the square is the Opera House.
Opera House (Alte Oper): Finished in 1880, Frankfurt’s opera house celebrated German high culture and the newly created nation. Mozart and Goethe flank the entrance, reminders that this is a house of both music and theater. On a hot day, people of all ages cool their heels in the refreshing fountain in the plaza out front. The original opera house was gutted in World War II. Over the objections of a mayor nicknamed “Dynamite Rudi,” the city rebuilt it in the original style, and it opened in 1981. Underneath is a U-Bahn station (Alte Oper).
• Facing the Opera, turn right down Frankfurt’s famous...
Fressgass’: The official names for this pedestrian street are Grosse Bockenheimer Strasse and Kalbächer Gasse...but everyone in Frankfurt calls it the Fressgass’, roughly “Feeding Street.” Herds of bank employees come here on their lunch breaks to fill their bellies before returning for another few hours of cud-chewing at their computers. It’s packed gable-to-gable with eateries and shoulder-to-shoulder with workers wolfing cheap sandwiches, plates of Asian food, and more. It also offers great people-watching. Join in if you’re hungry—or wait for more eating options in a couple of blocks.
• Fressgass’ leads to a square called Rathenauplatz, but it’s known as Goethe Platz for its central statue. Cross the square and continue straight—the pedestrian street is now called Biebergasse—another block to the...
Hauptwache: The small, red-and-white building—which has given its name to the square (and the subway station below it)—was built in 1730 to house the Frankfurt city militia. Now it’s a café. The square, entirely closed to traffic, is one of the city’s hubs.
• To the right, at the south side of the square, is the Protestant Katharinenkirche, which was destroyed in the bombing raids of March 1944 and rebuilt after the war. Straight ahead of you is a boulevard called the...
Zeil: This tree-lined pedestrian drag is Frankfurt’s main shopping street. Crowds swirl through the Galeria Kaufhof department store, the Zeil Galerie, and the MyZeil shopping center (the one with the glassy hole in its wall) along the left side of the street. MyZeil has a huge glass atrium shaped like two massive funnels—and can be a mesmerizing sight on a rainy day. A really long escalator (behind the much shorter twin set by the door) leads straight to the top-floor food court (with good, free WC). On your way, stop on the fourth floor and head toward the streetside windows to see a huge aerial photo of Frankfurt on the floor. This top-down view shows the surprising amount of green space there is in this city.
Lunch and Views at Department Stores: The Galeria Kaufhof has a recommended rooftop cafeteria, Leonhard’s (good for lunch or just the views). There’s a supermarket with a snack stand and seating in the basement of the MyZeil shopping center (Mon-Sat 7:00-24:00, closed Sun).
• Continue down Zeil a block to the fountain at the next intersection. Turn right on Hasengasse. In the distance is the lacy red-brick spire of the cathedral. Halfway there, after about two blocks, find the low-key green entrance to Kleinmarkthalle on the right. Enter the market (public WC downstairs at entry).
Kleinmarkthalle: This delightful, old-school market was saved from developers by a local outcry, and to this day it’s a neighborhood favorite. Explore and sample your way through the ground floor. It’s an adventure in fine eating (with a line of simple eateries upstairs, too) and a delight for photographers. The far wall is filled with a fun piece of art offering a bird’s-eye view of Frankfurt over a charming montage of the many ways locals love their hometown.
• Exit the Kleinmarkthalle opposite where you entered. Angle right, and climb five steps into a square (Leibfrauenberg) with a red-brick fountain and the 14th-century Church of Our Lady (rebuilt after World War II). On the far side is Lebkuchen-Schmidt, a fun shop selling traditional gingerbread, a local favorite. Turn left and head downhill on Neue Kräme, then cross Berliner Strasse to Paulsplatz.
To your right, the former church dominating the square is known as the “cradle of German democracy.” It was here, during the political upheaval of 1848, that the first freely elected National Assembly met and the first German Constitution was drafted, paving the way for a united Germany in 1871. Following its destruction by Allied bombs in 1944, the church became the first historic building in the city to be rebuilt. This was a symbolic statement from the German people that they wanted to be free (as they had demonstrated here in 1848), democratic...and no longer fascist. Around the outside of the building, you’ll see reliefs honoring people who contributed to the German nation, including Theodor Heuss, the first president, and John F. Kennedy, who spoke here on June 25, 1963.
Step inside; the entrance is around to the left (free, daily 10:00-17:00). Displays described in English tell the story of 1848. Check out the circular mural, from the 1980s. Called The March of Members of Parliament, it was controversial when unveiled. Commissioned to honor the political heroes of 1848, the portraits are cartoonish figures, with faces hinting of contemporary politicians. Political leaders seem to sneer at the working class, and two naked men who look like they’re having sex represent the forces of democracy and monarchy fighting within Germany. Upstairs is a 900-seat assembly hall with no decor except the flags of the 16 states of the Federal Republic of Germany.
• Walk across the square. If you need a break, a variety of eateries offer inviting seating that’s perfect for some fun people-watching. Then, cross the next street and tram tracks and you’ll enter what’s left of Frankfurt’s Old Town.
Frankfurt’s market square was the birthplace of the city. This is the site of the first trade fairs (12th century), bank (1405), and stock exchange (1585). Now, crowds of tourists convene here. Römerberg’s central statue is the goddess of justice without her customary blindfold. She oversees the Town Hall, which itself oversees trade. The Town Hall (Römer) houses the Kaisersaal, or Imperial Hall, where Holy Roman Emperors celebrated their coronations. Today, the Römer houses the city council and mayor’s office. Marriages must be performed in a civil ceremony here to be legal, so you’ll see lots of brides and grooms celebrating outside the City Hall. The cute row of half-timbered homes (rebuilt in 1983) opposite the Römer is typical of Frankfurt’s quaint old center before the square was completely destroyed in World War II. The Gothic red-and-white Old Nikolai Church (Alte Nikolaikirche, with fine stained glass from the 1920s by a local artist) dates from the 13th century and was restored after the war. Hosting everything from Christmas markets to violent demonstrations, this square is the beating heart of Frankfurt.
In the center of the square, the metal plaque that looks like a large manhole cover reminds us that a Nazi book-burning took place in the square on May 10, 1933. Around the edge of the plaque is a quote from the German poet Heinrich Heine, who presciently pointed out that it’s a short step from burning books to burning people.
• Facing the Town Hall, the river and the bridge where this walk ends are just two blocks to the left. But first, we’ll take a short detour. Circle around the Old Nikolai Church to Saalgasse.
Literally “Hall Street,” Saalgasse is lined by postmodern buildings echoing the higgledy-piggledy houses that stood here until World War II. In the 1990s, famous architects from around the world were each given a ruined house of the same width and told to design a new structure to reflect the one that stood there before the war. As you continue down the street, guess which one is an upside-down half-timbered house with stars. (Hint: Animals are on the “ground floor.”) When you see the big, red St. Bartholomew’s Cathedral (described next), turn left.
Holy Roman Emperors were elected at this Catholic church starting in 1152 and crowned here between 1562 and 1792. The cathedral was gutted by fire in 1867 and had to be rebuilt. It was seriously damaged in World War II, but repaired and reopened in 1953. Though the cathedral is free, you must pay to access two sights within the church: a museum (not particularly interesting) and a 328-step tower climb with city views at the top.
Cost and Hours: Cathedral-free, Mon-Thu and Sat 9:00-20:00, Fri and Sun 13:30-20:00, www.dom-frankfurt.de; museum-€4, Tue-Fri 10:00-17:00, Sat-Sun 11:00-17:00, closed Mon, enter from church vestibule, www.dommuseum-frankfurt.de; tower-€4, April-Oct daily 9:00-18:00, weather permitting, shorter hours off-season; tel. 069/7808-9255, www.domturm-frankfurt.de.
Visiting the Cathedral: Enter on the side opposite the river. Note the painted white lines that imitate mortar between stones. This illusionist architecture was a popular technique for churches. Frescoes from the 15th century survive (flanking the high altar and ringing the choir). They show 27 scenes from the life of St. Bartholomew. The Electors Chapel (to the right of the altar) is where the electors convened to choose the Holy Roman Emperor in the Middle Ages. Everything of value that could be moved was taken out of the church before the WWII bombs came. The delightful sandstone Chapel of Sleeping Mary (to the left of the high altar), carved and painted in the 15th century, was too big to move—so it was fortified with sandbags. The altarpiece and stained glass next to it survived the bombing. As you wander, appreciate the colorful and extravagant tombstones embedded in the walls when the church’s cemetery was emptied.
• Exit the cathedral where you entered and return to Saalgasse. If you turn left on Weckmarkt, you can continue on a couple of blocks to visit the Holocaust Memorial and/or the Frankfurt City Model (both free and described later, under “Sights in Frankfurt”). Or, to complete this walk, head down to the river, turn right, and go along the pleasant riverfront park to the next bridge. Walk to its center.
This iron bridge, the city’s second oldest, dates to 1869. (The oldest is just upstream: the Alte Brücke, site of the first “Frank ford”—a fifth-century crossing.) From the middle of the bridge, survey the skyline and enjoy the lively scene along the riverbanks of Frankfurt. These grassy areas are some of the most pleasant parts of the city.
• For a quick return to your starting point at the main train station (Hauptbahnhof), walk back to Römerberg and take the U-Bahn or board tram #11 or #12.
Johann Wolfgang von Goethe (GUH-teh; 1749-1832), a scientist, minister, poet, lawyer, politician, and playwright, was a towering figure in the early Romantic Age; his two-part tragedy, Faust, is a masterpiece of world literature. His birthplace, now a fine museum, is a five-minute walk northwest of Römerberg. It’s furnished as it was in the mid-18th century, when the boy destined to become the “German Shakespeare” grew up here.
Borrow a laminated card at the bottom of the stairs for a refreshingly brief commentary on each of the 16 rooms. Since nothing’s roped off and there are no posted signs, it’s easy to picture real people living here. Goethe’s father dedicated his life and wealth to cultural pursuits, and his mother told young Johann Wolfgang fairy tales every night, stopping just before the ending so that the boy could exercise his own creativity. Goethe’s family gave him all the money he needed to travel and learn. His collection of 2,000 books was sold off in 1795. In recent decades, more than half of these have been located and repurchased by the museum (you’ll see them in the library). This building honors the man who inspired the Goethe-Institut, which is dedicated to keeping the German language strong.
Cost and Hours: €7, Mon-Sat 10:00-18:00, Sun until 17:30, €3 high-tech but easy-to-use and informative audioguide, €1.50 English booklet has same info as free laminated cards—worthwhile only as a souvenir; 15-minute walk from Hauptbahnhof up Kaiserstrasse, turn right on Am Salzhaus to Grosser Hirschgraben 23; tel. 069/138-800, www.goethehaus-frankfurt.de.
Opened in 1986, this facility has quickly become one of Europe’s most respected homes of modern and contemporary art. Rotating exhibits pay homage to everything and everyone from Kandinsky and Kahlo to contemporary artists, movements, and topics.
Cost and Hours: €7-10 depending on exhibits, Tue-Sun 10:00-19:00, Wed-Thu until 22:00, closed Mon, Römerberg, tel. 069/299-882-112, www.schirn.de.
During the early Middle Ages, the most important Jewish communities north of the Alps were along the Rhine, in towns like Cologne, Speyer, Worms, and Frankfurt. Even after the center of Jewish life moved east to Poland and Lithuania, Frankfurt had a large and prominent Jewish community, which included the Rothschilds (the famous banking family).
You can get a feel for Frankfurt’s Jewish history with a visit to the Holocaust Memorial at the old Jewish cemetery, down Battonnstrasse from the Museum Judengasse, a short walk (or one tram stop) east of Römerberg and St. Bartholomew’s Cathedral.
This memorial to Frankfurt’s Jewish community—devastated by the Holocaust—marks the site of the old Jewish ghetto and where the city’s main Börneplatz Synagogue once stood. Commemorating 12,000 murdered Jews, it’s a powerful and evocative collection of images.
Museum Judengasse’s permanent exhibit focuses on Jewish life in Frankfurt, covering everything from work and school to the arts to relations between the community and Frankfurt’s government.
Around the old Jewish cemetery is the Wall of Names, with a tiny tombstone for each Frankfurt Jew deported and murdered by the Nazis (with destination and date of death, if known). Pebbles atop each tomb represent Jewish prayers. The memorial gives each victim the dignity of a tombstone and of being named, while a databank inside the adjacent Museum Judengasse keeps their memory alive with a record of everything known about each person.
By peeking through the locked black-metal gate into the cemetery, you can see a few tombstones that survived the Nazi rampage. In the tree-filled square is a stone tower, built with foundation stones from homes excavated from the Jewish ghetto. The gravel is designed to evoke train tracks and the deportation of so many people to concentration camps.
The paved section marks the footprint of the Börneplatz Synagogue, destroyed on November 9, 1938—a night traditionally known as Kristallnacht. (Because people’s lives were also destroyed on that night along with lots of windows and glass, the preferred name is “Pogrom Night.”) A plaque on the wall opposite recalls this terrible event. In the wake of World War II, American troops made Frankfurters memorialize each synagogue they destroyed with a plaque like this.
Cost and Hours: Wall of Names and cemetery-always free and viewable (key for cemetery available when museum is open); museum-€6, Tue 10:00-20:00, Wed-Sun until 18:00, closed Mon; Battonnstrasse 47, tel. 069/212-70790, www.museumjudengasse.de.
This ever-evolving model, unrelated to the Jewish story, is next to the Holocaust Memorial in the City Planning Office (Stadtplanungsamt), located in the same building as the Museum Judengasse. Enter through the frosted sliding doors and step left past the receptionist into an atrium to view a 30-by-20-foot layout on a 1:500 scale. Frankfurt’s inner city skyscrapers are marked Planungsdezernat. Since 1960 this model has helped planners envision and track the development of the city and its many massive building projects—even seeing where shadows of new buildings will fall. Red buildings are those under construction.
Cost and Hours: Free, Mon-Fri 8:30-18:00, closed Sat-Sun, Kurt-Schumacher-Strasse 10.
This museum, closed for renovation until 2019, is housed in the former Rothschild family palace, along the river between Römerberg and the train station (Untermainkai 14, tel. 069/2123-5000, www.juedischesmuseum.de).
Just across the road from the Jewish Museum is a lovely riverside promenade—a perfect place to rest your feet and watch people and planes go by.
The Schaumainkai riverside promenade (across the river from Römerberg over the Eiserner Steg pedestrian bridge, and then to the right) is great for an evening stroll or people-watching on any sunny day. Keep your eyes peeled for nude sunbathers. Every other Saturday, the museum strip street is closed off for a sprawling flea market, and in late August a weekend cultural festival brings food, art, and music to “museum row.”
Nine museums in striking buildings line the Main River along Schaumainkai. In the 1980s, Frankfurt decided that it wanted to buck its “Bankfurt” and “Krankfurt” (krank means “sick”) image. It went on a culture kick and devoted 11 percent of the city budget to arts and culture. The result: Frankfurt has become a city of art. These nine museums (covering topics such as architecture, film, world cultures, and great European masters—the Städel Collection) and a dozen others are all well-described in the TI’s Museumsufer brochure. Of these, a visit to the Städel (listed next) is most worthwhile.
Cost and Hours: All museums here are covered by the Museumsufer Ticket (for details see here); most museums open Tue-Sun 10:00-17:00, Wed until 20:00, closed Mon; www.kultur-frankfurt.de.
Getting There: Take tram #15 or #16 to the Otto-Hahn-Platz stop; bus #46 to the Städel stop; or U-1, U-2, U-3, or U-8 to the Schweizer Platz stop. Or, walk: It’s 15 minutes from the Hauptbahnhof via Holbeinsteg Bridge, or just a few minutes’ walk over the Eiserner Steg pedestrian bridge from the center of Frankfurt.
With an enormous yet approachable collection spanning Old Masters to modern day, this museum offers up a one-stop European art retrospective.
Cost and Hours: €14, covered by the Museumsufer Ticket, open Tue-Sun 10:00-18:00, Thu-Fri until 21:00, closed Mon; audioguide-€4, on-site restaurant; Schaumainkai 63, tel. 069/605-098-0299, www.staedelmuseum.de.
Visiting the Museum: Begin with Old Masters on the top floor, where you’ll find a huge Rembrandt canvas in Room 6—The Blinding of Samson—depicting Delilah gleefully making off with a handful of locks, scissors in hand, while one man handcuffs the now-powerless Samson and another gouges out one of his eyes.
The floor below has works by Renoir, Paul Klee, and Marc Chagall, as well as a female head sculpture by Picasso and his 1909 Cubist portrait of Fernande Olivier. Don’t miss the canvases by Max Beckmann, who lived in Frankfurt for nearly 20 years before the Nazis banned his work, classifying his art as “degenerate.” Frankfurt Main Station—looking not at all seedy—was done from memory while Beckmann lived in exile in Amsterdam. In Room 11, Dog Lying in the Snow by Franz Marc (who founded the Blue Rider group with Kandinsky—see here) is one of the museum’s most popular paintings.
On the museum’s lower level, you’ll find contemporary work—including more by Picasso, a skinny Giacometti sculpture, and avant-garde installations.
Sleeping in Frankfurt is a gamble: The city’s numerous trade fairs (Messe) send hotel prices skyrocketing—a €70 double can suddenly shoot up to €300. For an exact schedule, visit www.messefrankfurt.com (and select “The Company,” then “Our Publications,” then “Messe Frankfurt Calendar”). During trade fairs, it’s best to skip Frankfurt altogether and stay in Würzburg, Bacharach, or St. Goar.
When trade fairs aren’t in town, room prices in most Frankfurt hotels fluctuate €10-50 with the day of the week. If you’ll be staying overnight in Frankfurt during a nonconvention summer weekend, you can land a great place relatively cheaply. Frankfurt hotels are business-oriented, so many are empty and desperate for guests from Friday night to Monday morning. Although the rankings listed are typical, varying demand may skew them higher or lower.
Keep overnights in Frankfurt to a minimum: Pleasant Rhine and Romantic Road towns are just a quick drive or train ride away, offering a mom-and-pop welcome that you won’t find here in the big city.
The following places are within a few blocks of the train station and its fast and handy train to the airport (to sleep even closer to the airport, see “Sleeping at or near Frankfurt Airport,” here). The Hamburger Hof, Bristol, and Topas hotels are on the north (and most sedate) side of the station. The Manhattan, Concorde, and EasyHotel are along the busy streets just to the northeast of the station. The Victoria, Holiday Inn Express, Ibis Styles, and Five Elements hostel are in the multiethnic neighborhood east of the station. The Ibis Hotel Frankfurt Centrum is south of the station, close to the Main River and within walking distance of the Museum Embankment (Museumsufer). For locations, see the map on here.
All these listings are well-run and feel safe and respectable. I like staying in this colorful and convenient neighborhood (which gets more gentrified every year). But the red light district is close by, with gritty clubs and hard-drug users. Don’t wander into seedy-feeling streets, and use care and common sense after dark.
$$ Hotel Concorde, across the street from the station and then a few doors down Karlstrasse in a restored 1890s building, offers 45 air-conditioned rooms and four-star comfort and professionalism, all at a reasonable price (breakfast extra, elevator, Karlstrasse 9, tel. 069/242-4220, www.hotelconcorde.com, info@hotelconcorde.de, Marc is manager). Exit the station by track 24, cross the street and head right, walking past the Manhattan Hotel and around the corner to the Concorde. A REWE supermarket is across the street.
$$ Hotel Hamburger Hof, right next to the train station but in a quiet and safe-feeling location, has a classy, shiny lobby and 62 modern rooms. The side facing the station is cheerfully sunny, while rooms on the other side are quieter (air-con, elevator, Poststrasse 10, tel. 069/2713-9690, www.hamburgerhof.com, info@hamburgerhof.com). Exit the station by track 24, cross the street, turn left, and walk to the end of the block.
$$ Bristol Hotel is a swanky 145-room place that serves up style and flair, from its nod to Pacific Rim architecture to its spacious breakfast room and relaxing patio bar. It’s just two blocks from the station and enjoys quiet and respectable surroundings (air-con, elevator, huge breakfast buffet, Ludwigstrasse 15, tel. 069/242-390, www.bristol-hotel.de, info@bristol-hotel.de). Exit the station by track 24, cross the street, turn left, then right on Ottostrasse, then left on Niddastrasse to Ludwigstrasse.
$$ Victoria Hotel, two blocks from the station along the grand Kaiserstrasse, has 73 rooms and feels a world apart from the red light district a block away (air-con, elevator, Kaiserstrasse 59, entrance on Elbestrasse, tel. 069/273-060, www.victoriahotel.de, info@victoriahotel.de). From the station, go down the escalators to the underground passageway below the station and follow the Kaiserstrasse signs.
$$ Manhattan Hotel, with 55 rooms, is a few doors from the station on a busy street. Friendly manager Robert tries to greet all of his guests personally (RS%, air-con, elevator, Düsseldorfer Strasse 10, tel. 069/269-5970, www.manhattan-hotel.com, info@manhattan-hotel.com). Exit the station by track 24, cross the street, and go right until you see the hotel; to cross Düsseldorfer Strasse safely, walk up to the tram stop.
$$ Holiday Inn Express Hauptbahnhof has 116 fresh rooms two blocks from the station, in a quiet location just off Münchener Strasse in the Turkish district (air-con, elevator, Elbestrasse 7, tel. 069/8700-3883, www.fmhos.com, frankfurt@fmhos.com). From the front of the station, use the crosswalk by the tram stop and follow the tracks down Münchener Strasse two blocks to Elbestrasse and turn right.
$$ Ibis Styles Frankfurt City is a small step up from the Ibis Hotel (next listing) and is centrally located just a few blocks from the station. Its 96 funky, colorful rooms help you forget that this is a popular chain hotel (air-con, elevator, Moselstrasse 12, tel. 069/6925-6110, www.ibisstyles.com, H7561@accor.com). From the front of the station, use the crosswalk by the tram stop and follow the tracks down Münchener Strasse one block to Moselstrasse and turn right.
$$ Ibis Hotel Frankfurt Centrum is a good value, with 233 rooms on a quiet riverside street away from the station (breakfast extra, elevator, pay parking, Speicherstrasse 4, tel. 069/273-030, www.ibishotel.com, h1445@accor.com). Exit the station by track 1 and follow busy Baseler Strasse three blocks, then turn right before the river; it’s across the street from the green office tower and park.
$ Hotel Topas, a decent budget choice with 33 rooms, is a block north of the train station. Ask for one of the eight back-facing rooms, as they’re quieter and cooler in summer (elevator, Niddastrasse 88, tel. 069/230-852, www.hoteltopas.de, hoteltopas@t-online.de). From the station, follow the same directions as for the Bristol Hotel (listed earlier), two doors away.
$ EasyHotel Frankfurt follows in the footsteps of parent company EasyJet. The generally tiny, no-frills rooms feel as if they were popped out of a plastic mold, right down to the ship’s head-style “bathroom pod.” Rates can be low if you book early, but you’ll be charged for add-ons that are normally included at most other hotels (no breakfast, elevator, air-con, pay Wi-Fi, pay TV, pay parking, extra for early check-in or late checkout at 13:00, Düsseldorfer Strasse 19, www.easyhotel.com). Exit the station by track 24 and follow Düsseldorfer Strasse two blocks to the Platz der Republik tram stop, which is directly in front of the hotel.
Hostel: ¢ Five Elements, a block from the train station, is clean and modern and feels very safe inside. But because it’s smack in the middle of the red light district, families might feel more comfortable elsewhere. Here, too, prices skyrocket during conventions (private rooms available, elevator, breakfast extra, Moselstrasse 40, tel. 069/2400-5885, www.5elementshostel.de, welcome@5elementshostel.de). From the station, exit the underground passage onto Taunusstrasse and go one block to the corner of Moselstrasse; the hostel is across the intersection to your left.
If you’re in Frankfurt for one night, stay near the station—but if you’re in town for a few days and want to feel like you belong, choose one of the following listings. Hotel Neue Kräme and Hotel Zentrum are near Römerberg, and the Maingau Hotel and the hostel are in the Sachsenhausen district (see “Eating in Frankfurt,” later). For locations, see the map on here.
$$ Hotel Neue Kräme is a quiet little 21-room oasis tucked away above the center of Frankfurt’s downtown action, just steps from Römerberg. Friendly staff welcome guests in this bright and cheerful place (RS%, two apartments with kitchen across street, elevator, Neue Kräme 23—look for blue-and-white hotel sign out front, tel. 069/284-046, www.hotel-neuekraeme.de, info@hotel-neuekraeme.de).
$$ Hotel Zentrum offers industrial-chic style hidden on the upper floors of a downtown building. With 29 colorful, modern rooms, it’s in a great location near the Hauptwache (RS%, family rooms, elevator, free afternoon coffee and cake in lobby, Rossmarkt 7, tel. 069/5050-0190, www.hotel-zentrum.de, info@hotel-zentrum.de, manager Sascha).
$$ Maingau Hotel, located across the river in the Sachsenhausen district, is on a quiet residential street facing a neighborhood park. The 78 rooms are simple and bright. If you’re looking for a little tranquility in an authentic residential setting, stay here (elevator, pay parking in nearby garage, Schifferstrasse 38, tel. 069/609-140, www.maingau.de, info@maingau.de). From the station, take tram #16 to the Lokalbahnhof/Textorstrasse stop; the hotel is three blocks away.
Hostel: The ¢ Haus der Jugend is right along the river and is the only place I list where prices don’t go up during conferences (membership required, private rooms available, lunch and dinner available, elevator, 2:00 curfew, Deutschherrnufer 12, tel. 069/610-0150, www.jugendherberge-frankfurt.de, info@hellofrankfurt.de). From the station, exit through the front door, turn right to the bus platforms, and take bus #46 (2/hour, direction: Mühlberg) to the Frankensteiner Platz stop, which is one door from the hostel.
Instead of beer-garden ambience, Frankfurt entices visitors and locals to its Sachsenhausen district, across the river, where you’ll find lots of characteristic apple-wine pubs (and plenty of other options). This cobbled and cozy neighborhood is the city’s traditional eating-and-drinking zone—a great place to spend a warm summer evening.
Apfelwein, drunk around here since Charlemagne’s time 1,200 years ago, became more popular in the 16th century, when local grapes were diseased. It enjoyed another boost two centuries later, when a climate change made grape-growing harder. Apple wine is about the strength of beer (5.5 percent alcohol), but like wine, it can be served spiced and warm in winter. This hard cider can be an acquired taste—good luck enjoying it. You’ll see locals, who’ve spent a lifetime learning to like it, grasping their apple wine in geripptes—characteristic hatched glasses (which go back to its early days, when this tax-free drink was slurped by greasy-fingered sausage munchers on the streets).
Sachsenhausen is also a good place to sample local cuisine. The culinary pride of Frankfurt is Grüne Sosse, a green sauce made of sour cream blended with seven herbs (parsley, chives, watercress, sorrel, borage, chervil, and burnet); it’s frequently served with beef, schnitzel, or halved hard-boiled eggs. Another widely available local specialty (for the adventurous) is Handkäse mit Musik (“hand cheese with music”—the “music” comes tomorrow), an aged, cylindrical ricotta-like cheese served with onions and vinegar. You can also satisfy your craving for Leiterchen here (“miniladders,” or spare ribs—surprisingly meaty and salty).
(See “Frankfurt Hotels & Restaurants” map, here.)
The three apple-wine pubs I’ve listed below all have indoor and outdoor seating in a woodsy, rustic setting. Not just for tourists, these characteristic places are truly popular with Frankfurters, too. To reach them, take bus #46 from the train station (direction: Mühlberg) to Frankensteiner Platz. Or to walk from downtown, cross the river on the pedestrian-only Eiserner Steg or the Alte Brücke. For locations, see the map on here.
$$ Dauth-Schneider has lots of tables outside on the shady, tree-covered square, a large indoor section, and a big and accessible menu. It’s my first choice for eating outside on a balmy evening (daily 11:30-24:00, Neuer Wall 5, tel. 069/613-533). Families appreciate the big-city playground across the square from the outdoor tables.
$$ Atschel, across the street and a few doors down, is my Sachsenhausen choice for eating inside. They serve “Frankfurter Schnitzel” with green sauce and other local standards in a handsome dining room and cozy back garden (cash only, daily 12:00-24:00, kitchen closes at 22:30, Wallstrasse 7, tel. 069/619-201).
$$ Fichtekränzi, opposite Atschel, is open evenings only. It offers the typical specialties and some lighter fare, both in its cozy, bench-filled beer hall and outside under the trees. The atmosphere is young and relaxed—expect to share a table and make some new friends (cash only, Mon-Sat 17:00-23:00, Sun from 16:00, Wallstrasse 5, tel. 069/612-778).
Pub Crawl: Irish pubs and salsa bars clutter the pedestrian zone around Grosse Rittergasse and Frankensteiner Strasse; if you’re looking for a place to do a pub crawl, this is it.
(See “Frankfurt Hotels & Restaurants” map, here.)
On or near Römerberg
Römerberg, Frankfurt’s charming, traffic-free, and historic market square, is the focal point of any visit. As you can imagine, it’s lined with the typical array of touristy and overpriced restaurants. Still, if you’d like to eat here (especially nice if eating outside), your best bets are listed below.
$$ Weinstube im Römer, in the bottom of the Town Hall, is a classic old place serving good schnitzel and the local Frankfurt white wine, a Riesling, still produced in vineyards owned by the city (Tue-Fri 16:00-23:00, Sat-Sun from 11:30, closed Mon, Römerberg 19, tel. 069/291-331).
$ Alten Limpurg, a very simple and basic option with the cheapest menu on the square, is easy to spot: Look for the big sausages displayed out front. Choose from the comfy pub inside or order from the sausage window and enjoy sitting on the square (daily 9:00-24:00, Römerberg 17, tel. 069/9288-3130).
$$ Cafébarim Kunstverein, while a few steps off the square and without the memorable views, is a fine value and serves more locals than tourists in a kind of retro elegance under medieval vaults (homemade cakes, daily 10:00-19:00, until later Wed-Thu, adjacent modern-art gallery at Markt 44, tel. 069/8477-0863).
(See “Frankfurt Hotels & Restaurants” map, here.)
$$$$ Restaurant Opéra is a great place for a dressy splurge, with white tablecloths and formal service both inside, under gilded arches and circa-1900 decor, or out on a terrace over the opera’s grand entry (daily 12:00-15:00 & 18:00-23:30, Opernplatz 1, tel. 069/134-0215). Enter through Café Rosso at street level, then take the elevator or stairs up to the third floor.
$$ Leib & Seele is a modern place a block toward the river from the Hauptwache. Its name means “body and soul,” and this local favorite serves lots of hearty and creative salads, serious vegetarian plates, and traditional dishes in a modern pub interior with fine outside tables (daily 10:00-24:00, Kornmarkt 11, tel. 069/281-529).
$ Galeria Kaufhof’s Leonhard’s Café and Restaurant is a huge, sleek, modern cafeteria serving good buffet-style food (at restaurant prices), and has nice city views from its top-floor perch. It’s super-efficient, with lots of healthy options, air conditioning, and sofas on the rooftop terrace for those just having a drink (Mon-Sat 9:30-20:00 or 21:00, closed Sun).
$ Café Karin, a local institution, serves one of the best breakfasts in town until 18:00 (including the yummy, homemade Bircher Muesli). Located right next to Goethe House, the café is also a convenient place for a coffee break (cash only, Mon-Fri 9:00-21:00, Sat until 19:00, Sun 10:00-19:00, Grosser Hirschgraben 28, tel. 069/295-217)
$ Kleinmarkthalle (described on my self-guided walk, earlier) is one of the most charming and inviting indoor market halls you’ll find anywhere in Germany, and a great place for a simple lunch. Strolling its ground floor, you can graze through a world of amazing free samples (call that the first course). Once you’ve made your selection (fish, Italian, oyster bar), find a place to sit down at the far end opposite the entrance, or go upstairs (Mon-Fri 8:00-18:00, Sat until 16:00, closed Sun). If you want to picnic, consider the adjacent square, Liebfrauenberg, near the fountain.
$$ Kleinmarkthalle Markt-Stubb (breakfast and lunch only) is the only real restaurant in the market hall. It’s upstairs at the east end and is a hit with local seniors for its traditional home cooking (fresh-from-market ingredients, Tue-Sat 9:00-16:00, closed Sun-Mon).
Kleinmarkthalle Weinterrasse is a lively wine garden upstairs at the market hall, serving every wine but apple to locals. It stays open for two hours after the market is closed (Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00, Sat until 18:00, closed Sun).
(See “Frankfurt Hotels & Restaurants” map, here.)
A grand boulevard connecting the train station with the old center, Kaiserstrasse is a venerable, linden-tree-lined, four-block stretch of once-dazzling buildings (circa 1880) that’s been cleaned up recently (the sex and drugs have been corralled a block or two to the north). It’s emerging as a fun eating-and-drinking zone—especially if you need a break from traditional German fare. The parallel Münchener Strasse is less upscale but up-and-coming, with some hip newer restaurants popular with locals (such as Maxie Eisen) and with a cheaper selection of ethnic eateries. And the train station itself is a veritable mall of shops and restaurants with long hours.
If eating in this area, I recommend strolling around first to enjoy the scene and survey your options (as things are steadily evolving upward in quality). Here are a few places to consider (starting nearest the station).
$$ Der Fette Bulle Hamburger Restaurant (the “Fat Bull”) is a trendy burger place with a modern and fun interior and good seating on the street. If you’re in the mood for a fancy burger, this is the place (daily 11:30-23:00, Kaiserstrasse 73, tel. 069/9075-7004).
$$ Urban Kitchen is a chic and modern place serving creative global food (everything from pizza to sushi) from a fun and healthy menu to a cool crowd (daily 11:00-late, Kaiserstrasse 53, tel. 069/2710-7999).
$$$ BonaMente is the local choice for red meat, with a sleek and modern steakhouse ambience inside and good on-the-street tables. The portions are big, and so is the selection (daily 11:00-24:00, Kaiserstrasse 51, tel. 069/2562-7566).
$$$ L’Emir, just off Kaiserstrasse inside a cheap hotel on Weserstrasse, is a good Lebanese place. Choose from their endless appetizer options or try their popular lamb dishes (daily 12:00-24:00, Weserstrasse 17, tel. 069/2400-8686).
$ Der Thai is good for those who want quick and inexpensive meals. Dine inside the small, modern interior or eat your food streetside (Mon-Fri 11:00-23:00, Sat-Sun from 12:00, Kaiserstrasse 38, tel. 069/2695-7957).
$ Dean & David is a favorite for a fast, inexpensive, and healthy meal with views of the skyscrapers of “Bankfurt.” It has a pleasant modern interior and wonderful streetside tables (Mon-Fri 10:00-20:30, Sat 12:00-18:00, closed Sun; Kaiserstrasse 31, tel. 069/8008-8363).
$$ Merkez Kebab Haus, opened in 1986, is the best place for Turkish food. With a wood-fired grill, it’s a cut above the usual Döner Kebab shop, with an inviting ambience and good service, but at a great price (try the wonderful sütlaç—rice pudding, daily 11:00-late, Münchener Strasse 33, tel. 069/233-995).
$$ Maxie Eisen, named after a 1920s Chicago racketeer with German roots, is a deli/diner and bar located on the light-flooded corner of Münchener Strasse and Weserstrasse. If you’re craving a pastrami or Reuben sandwich, you’ll find it here, along with other Jewish dishes like matzo ball and kreplach soups, plus delicious seasoned fries (Mon-Sat 11:30-23:00, bar open later, closed Sun, Münchener Strasse 18, tel. 069/7675-8362).
$$ Indigo Restaurant, a block north of Kaiserstrasse at the corner of Weserstrasse and Taunusstrasse, is a bit closer to the red light district, but their Indian food is rumored to be some of the best in town. This is a good place for takeout (daily 12:00-14:30 & 17:30-23:30, Taunusstrasse 17, tel. 069/2648-8878).
German Destinations: Rothenburg (hourly, 3 hours, changes in Würzburg and Steinach; the tiny Steinach-Rothenburg train often leaves from track 5, shortly after the Würzburg train arrives), Würzburg (1-2/hour, 70 minutes, or 2 hours on cheaper RE trains), Nürnberg (1-2/hour, 2 hours), Munich (hourly, 3.5 hours), Baden-Baden (hourly, 1.5-2 hours, direct or transfer in Karlsruhe), Bacharach (hourly, 1.5-2 hours, change in Mainz or Bingen), Freiburg (hourly, 1.5-2 hours), Cochem (hourly, 2.5 hours, change in Koblenz), Cologne (direct ICE trains hourly, 1-1.5 hours; cheaper, less frequent IC trains take 2.5 hours and show you more of the Rhine), Leipzig (every 2 hours direct on ICE, 3.5 hours; a few additional on IC, 4 hours), Berlin (hourly, 4.5 hours), Hamburg (hourly, 4 hours). Train info: Toll tel. 0180-699-6633, www.bahn.com.
International Destinations: Amsterdam (3/day direct, 4 hours; more with changes, 5.5-7 hours), Bern (hourly, 4 hours, some with change in Basel), Zürich (hourly, 4 hours, most change in Basel), Brussels (at least hourly, 3-5 hours, most change in Cologne), Copenhagen (10/day, 9 hours, change in Hamburg), Paris (every 1-2 hours, 4-6 hours, most with 1 change), Vienna (6/day direct, 7 hours), Prague (6/day, 6 hours, change to bus in Nürnberg).
The bus departs promptly at 8:00 (mid-April-mid-Oct) from the Deutsche Touring bus stop by the front corner of the Frankfurt train station. Exit the station through the main entrance and turn right; look for the platform (usually A2-A4) with signs saying Touring and Romantische Strasse. You can either pay in cash or with a credit card when you board, or buy your ticket at the Deutsche Touring office, which is across the street from the south (track 1) side of the station (Mon-Fri 7:30-19:30, Sat until 14:00, Sun until 13:00; Mannheimer Strasse 15). Tickets and information are also available over the phone (Mon-Fri 9:00-18:00, tel. 09851/551-387, www.romanticroadcoach.de). It’s free to book a seat in advance on their website, but it’s not necessary. Frankfurt to Rothenburg costs €45, to Munich is €86, and all the way to Füssen is €108 (20 percent discount with rail pass). For more information, see here.
Frankfurt’s airport (Flughafen), just a few stops by S-Bahn from the city center, has its own long-distance train station, which makes it a snap to connect from a flight here to other German cities. For flight information in English, visit www.frankfurt-airport.com, call 01805-372-4636, or contact your airline (airport code: FRA).
There are two separate terminals (know your terminal—check your ticket or the airport website). Terminal 1, a multilevel maze of check-in counters and shops, is linked to the train station. Terminal 2 is small and quiet, with few services. A Skytrain connects the two terminals in less than five minutes. Pick up the free brochure Your Airport Guide for a map and detailed information (available at the airport and at most Frankfurt hotels).
The airport has three pay baggage-storage desks (Gepäckaufbewahrung; the branch in Terminal 1B, level 1 is open 24 hours). There is a post office (in Terminal 1B, level 1), a pharmacy (in Terminal 1B, level 2, and also in Terminal 2), a 24-hour medical clinic (on level 1 between terminals 1B and 1C), public showers (Terminal 1B, level 2, near the pharmacy, €6, shampoo and towel included), and free Wi-Fi. A good-sized, fairly priced Tegut supermarket is handy for last-minute shopping for European treats (Terminal 1C, level 0; tricky to find: Go down the escalators from the underpass on level 1 between terminals 1B and 1C, or up the escalators from train platforms 1-3). Take advantage of the luggage carts, ingeniously designed to ride on the airport’s escalators (and up to, but not into, the Skytrain; €2 deposit refunded when you return your cart). Heed the instructions on the carts and at the escalator entrances. There are customs desks in both terminals for VAT refunds (daily 7:00-21:00; after hours, ask the information desk to page a customs officer for you). There’s even McBeer at four McDonald’s; one of which is allegedly among Europe’s largest. McWelcome to Germany.
The airport’s train station has two parts, both reachable from Terminal 1. Regional S-Bahn trains to downtown Frankfurt and nearby towns and suburbs depart from platforms 1-3. Long-distance trains leave from the slightly more distant Fernbahnhof, platforms 4-7.
Getting Between the Airport and Downtown Frankfurt: The airport is a 12-minute train ride on the S-Bahn from Frankfurt’s main train station, or Hauptbahnhof (4/hour, €4.80, ride included in €10.50 Frankfurt Card and €9.10 individual/€15.80 group version of all-day Tageskarte Frankfurt transit pass, but not in cheaper version of Tageskarte Frankfurt). Figure about €30 for a taxi from the airport to any of my recommended hotels.
From Frankfurt Airport by Long-Distance Train: Train travelers can validate rail passes or buy tickets at the Reisezentrum on the level above the long-distance train platforms. Handy ticket machines are easy to use and allow you to print a schedule even if you aren’t buying a ticket—great for those traveling with a rail pass. Destinations include Rothenburg (hourly, 3.5 hours, change in Würzburg and Steinach), Würzburg (1-2/hour, 1.5 hours), Nürnberg (1-2/hour, 2.5 hours), Munich (1-2/hour, 3.5 hours), Baden-Baden (roughly hourly, 1.5 hours, change in Karlsruhe and/or Mannheim), Cologne (1-2/hour, 1 hour; trains along Rhine go less often and take 2.5 hours), Bacharach (hourly, 1 hour, change in Mainz or Bingen, some depart from regional platforms), Berlin (1-2/hour, 4.5-5 hours, most with 1 change). There are also many international connections from here (such as Paris, London, Brussels, Amsterdam, Zürich, Bern, and Prague).
Because train connections to Frankfurt Airport are so good, if your flight doesn’t leave too early, you can sleep in another city and still make it to the airport for your flight. If you wake up in Cologne, Baden-Baden, Würzburg, or Bacharach, you can still catch a late-morning or midday flight; you can often make it from Nürnberg, Rothenburg, Freiburg, the Mosel, and even Munich for an early afternoon flight. Plan ahead and leave room for delays; don’t take the last possible connection.
Thanks to these easy connections—and because downtown Frankfurt is just 12 minutes away by frequent train—it makes little sense for train travelers to sleep at the airport. Drivers who do want to stay near the airport the night before returning a rental car can stay in Kelsterbach, just across the expressway from the airport, at the $ Ibis Frankfurt Airport Hotel (no breakfast, Langer Kornweg 9a, tel. 06107/9870, www.ibishotel.com). If you’re desperate, the $$$ Sheraton Frankfurt is conveniently connected to Terminal 1 (tel. 069/69770, www.sheraton.com/frankfurt, reservationsfrankfurt@sheraton.com).
This smaller airport, misleadingly classified as a “Frankfurt” airport for marketing purposes, is a nearly two-hour drive away in the Mosel region. Regular buses connect Frankfurt Hahn Airport to Bullay (for trains to Cochem), Trier, Mainz, Cologne, and Frankfurt (more info at www.hahn-airport.de). Hahn Airport is popular with low-cost carriers (such as Ryanair). To avoid confusion, double-check the three-letter airport code on your ticket (FRA for Frankfurt Airport, HHN for Frankfurt Hahn).