FASCISM AND COLD WAR SITES NEAR CHECKPOINT CHARLIE
▲Museum of the Wall at Checkpoint Charlie (Mauermuseum Haus am Checkpoint Charlie)
▲▲Topography of Terror (Topographie des Terrors)
MUSEUMS SOUTH OF UNTER DEN LINDEN
▲Jewish Museum Berlin (Jüdisches Museum Berlin)
The following sights are listed roughly north to south (as you’d reach them from Unter den Linden).
A variety of fascinating sites relating to Germany’s tumultuous 20th century cluster south of Unter den Linden.
Famous as the place where many visiting Westerners crossed into East Berlin during the Cold War, the original Checkpoint Charlie is long gone. But today a reconstructed guard station—with big posters of American and Soviet guards, and a chilling “You are leaving the American sector” sign—attracts curious tourists for a photo op. Nothing here is original (except for the nearby museum—described next), and the whole area feels like a Cold War theme park, with kitschy communist-themed attractions, Trabi rides, hucksters, buskers, and sleazy vendors who charge through the nose for a DDR stamp in your passport. The replica checkpoint is free to view and always open (but you’ll pay to take photos with the “guards”).
Background: For nearly three decades (1961-1989), this was a border crossing between East and West Berlin. It became known worldwide and stood as a symbol of the Cold War itself. The name “Charlie” came about because it was the third checkpoint in a series. Checkpoint A (Alpha) was at the East-West German border, a hundred miles west of here. Checkpoint B (Bravo) was where people left East Germany and entered the Allied sector of Berlin. This was Checkpoint C (Charlie). Its roots lie in the days immediately after World War II, when this intersection was the border between the US-occupied neighborhood and the Soviet zone. In 1952, the Soviets officially closed the border between East and West Germany, and blocked East Germans from leaving with a fence. But West Berlin was still open until the Wall went up here in 1961. Afterwards, Friedrichstrasse was one of the few places where people could legally pass between East and West—provided they had the proper documents, of course. That generally meant foreigners and officials from the Allies—not East Germans.
The East Germans fortified their side of the checkpoint heavily. There was the Wall, a watchtower, concrete barriers to prevent cars from speeding through, barbed-wire fences, and even a garage where vehicles could be checked for smuggled goods or people. (None of these structures stand today.)
On the US side, there was...Checkpoint Charlie. This was a humble shack for the document-checking GIs. It sat on a traffic island in the middle of Friedrichstrasse, fortified with a few piles of sandbags. While the actual checkpoint has long since been dismantled, you can see a mock-up, with a guard station, sandbags, and a US flag. There’s a replica of the original sign, which warned ominously in several languages: “You are leaving the American sector.” Larger-than-life posters show an American soldier facing east and a young Soviet soldier facing west. A couple of actors posing as GIs will take a selfie with you for a fee.
This ragtag but riveting celebration of the many ways desperate East Germans managed to slip through the Wall to freedom has stood here since 1963...taunting DDR authorities. Today East Germany and its Wall are long gone, but the museum is still going strong. Some of the displays have yellowed, the place is cramped and confusing, and the ticket prices are way too high, but the museum retains a special sense of history. Visiting here, you’ll learn about the creation of the Wall and the many escape attempts (including several of the actual items used by clever escapees). If you’re pressed for time, visit after dinner, when most other museums are closed. Compared to the soberly academic official Berlin Wall Memorial near the Nordbahnhof, this museum has more personality, buoyed by a still-defiant spirit.
Cost and Hours: €12.50, daily 9:00-22:00, last entry one hour before closing, audioguide-€5, U6 to Kochstrasse or U2 to Stadtmitte, Friedrichstrasse 43, tel. 030/253-7250, www.mauermuseum.de.
A rare undeveloped patch of land in central Berlin, right next to a surviving stretch of Wall, was once the nerve center for the Gestapo and the SS—the most despicable elements of the Nazi government. Today this site hosts a modern documentation center, along with an outdoor exhibit in the Gestapo headquarters’ excavated foundations. While there isn’t much in the way of original artifacts, the exhibit does a good job of telling this powerful story, in the place where it happened. The information is a bit dense, but WWII historians (even armchair ones) find it fascinating.
Cost and Hours: Free, includes audioguide (ID required), daily 10:00-20:00, outdoor exhibit closes at dusk and closed entirely mid-Oct-mid-April, Niederkirchnerstrasse 8, U-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz or Kochstrasse, S-Bahn: Anhalter Bahnhof or Potsdamer Platz, tel. 030/254-5090, www.topographie.de.
Visiting the Museum: Start in the entrance lobby, with a model of the neighborhood. (We’re standing at #20.) Back in the 1930s and ’40s, this was just one of many governmental office buildings along Wilhelmstrasse. Seeing this sprawling bureaucratic quarter gives you a sense of how much mundane paperwork was involved in administering Hitler’s reign of terror in an efficient, rational way. (Nearby, the dry introductory film is skippable.)
Stepping into the main room, you begin a chronological journey (with a timeline of events, old photographs, documents, and newspaper clippings) through the rise of Nazism, the reign of terror, the start of World War II, and the Holocaust. The displays illustrate how Hitler, Himmler, and their team expertly manipulated the German people to build a broadly supported “dictatorship of consent.” You’ll learn about the web of intersecting organizations whose duties were run from here. And you’ll learn about the Gestapo, SS (Schutzstaffel), and SD (Sicherheitsdienst), and about their brutal methods—including their chillingly systematic implementation of the Holocaust.
Some images here are indelible. Gleeful SS soldiers, stationed at Auschwitz, yuk it up on a retreat in the countryside (as their helpless prisoners were being gassed and burned a few miles away). A German woman, head shaved, is publicly humiliated for fraternizing with a Polish prisoner. On a street corner, jeering SS troops cut off the beard of an elderly Jewish man. A Roma woman’s eye color is carefully analyzed by a doctor performing “racial evaluation.” Graphic images show executions—by hanging, firing squad, and so on.
The exhibits end, mercifully, with the end of the war in 1945. A photo shows this former building in total ruins. The finale is a wall of colored cards used in collecting data for the postwar trials of the people who worked here. While the Nazi leadership was captured and prosecuted at the Nürnberg trials, the majority of midlevel bureaucrats who worked in this building—and who routinely facilitated genocide with the flick of a pen—were never brought to justice.
Before heading outside, ask at the information desk for the free audioguide. Also downstairs is a WC and a library.
Outside, you’ll find the exhibit Berlin 1933-1945: Between Propaganda and Terror. One display explains how Nazis invented holidays (or injected new Aryan meaning into existing ones) as a means of winning over the public. Another section covers the “Aryanization” of Jewish businesses: They were simply taken over by the state and handed over to new Aryan owners. You’ll read about Hitler’s plans for converting Berlin into a World Capital of gigantic buildings—the “Welthauptstadt Germania.” The exhibit even covers some of postwar Berlin, including the Belin Airlift, which brought provisions to some 2.2 million West Berliners whose supply lines were cut off by the Soviets.
Nearby: Immediately next door is an unusually long surviving stretch of the Berlin Wall. A block beyond that is the looming, very fascist-style Former Air Ministry—built by Hitler to house his Luftwaffe (Nazi air force), later the DDR’s “Hall of Ministries,” today the German Finance Ministry, still adorned with cheery 1950s communist propaganda. And a short walk away is a surviving DDR Watchtower, which kept careful vigil over the Wall.
Combining a remarkable building with a thoughtful permanent exhibit, this is the most educational Jewish-themed sight in Berlin—easily worth ▲▲ (and the effort to reach it) for those with an interest in Jewish history. The exhibit provides a detailed overview of the rich culture and history of Europe’s Jewish community. And the building itself—which enhances the overall experience—is packed with symbolism and offers several spaces designed for pondering what you’ve learned. To really dig into the place, give yourself at least two hours here. English explanations interpret both the exhibits and the building, but the excellent €3 audioguide—with four hours of commentary—is essential to fully appreciate the collection.
Cost and Hours: €8, ask for discount if also going to Berlinische Galerie, daily 10:00-20:00, Mon until 22:00, closed on Jewish holidays. Tight security includes bag check and metal detectors. Tel. 030/2599-3300, www.jmberlin.de.
Getting There: It’s in a nondescript residential neighborhood (halfway between Checkpoint Charlie and the happening Kreuzberg scene). Take the U-Bahn to Hallesches Tor, find the exit marked Jüdisches Museum, exit straight ahead, then turn right on Franz-Klühs-Strasse. The museum is a five-minute walk ahead on your left, at Lindenstrasse 9.
Eating: The museum’s $$ restaurant offers good Jewish-style meals, albeit not kosher.
Visiting the Museum: Designed by American architect Daniel Libeskind (the master planner for the redeveloped World Trade Center in New York), the zinc-walled building has a zigzag shape pierced by voids symbolic of the irreplaceable cultural loss caused by the Holocaust. Enter the 18th-century Baroque building next door, then go through an underground tunnel to reach the museum interior.
Before you reach the exhibit, your visit starts with three memorial spaces. Follow the Axis of Exile—lined with the names of cities where the Jewish diaspora settled—to a disorienting slanted garden with 49 pillars. Next, the Axis of Holocaust—lined with names of concentration camps and artifacts from Jews imprisoned and murdered by the Nazis—leads to an eerily empty tower shut off from the outside world. Finally, the Axis of Continuity takes you to stairs and the main exhibit. A detour partway up the long stairway leads (through temporary exhibits) to the Memory Void, a compelling space of “fallen leaves”: heavy metal faces that you walk on, making unhuman noises with each step.
Finish climbing the stairs to the top of the museum and stroll chronologically through the 2,000-year story of Judaism in Germany. The engaging exhibit, with lots of artifacts, spans two large floors. Interactive bits make it lively for kids: Spell your name in Hebrew, or write a prayer and hang it from a tree.
The top floor focuses on everyday life in Ashkenaz (medieval German-Jewish lands). Downstairs, on the middle floor, exhibits detail the rising tide of anti-Semitism in Germany through the 19th century—at a time when many Jews were so secularized that they celebrated Christmas right along with Hanukkah. The exhibit segues into the dark days of Hitler, including the horrific night of November 9, 1938, when, throughout Germany, hateful mobs destroyed Jewish-owned businesses, homes, synagogues, and even entire villages—called “Crystal Night” (Kristallnacht) for the broken glass that glittered in the streets.
The Berlinische Galerie, a gorgeous, well-presented museum (with an oversized word-search puzzle out front), showcases modern and contemporary art created in this eclectic city. The main draw is the permanent exhibit upstairs, offering an intriguing, chronological, and easily digestible look at art generated in Berlin from 1880 to 1980. The collection begins with Conservative (i.e., realistic) art, then gives way to the shimmering Berlin Secession (starting in 1892), and evolves from there. You’ll meet Margarette Kubicka (1891-1984), with her colorful, curvy, Cubist-inspired style; and Klimt-like, avant-garde Expressionism, including works by Otto Dix (the biggest name here). You’ll get a lesson in the Weimar-era “New Objectivity” (where artists focused on everyday scenes, intentionally objectifying their subjects in response to the abstraction trend). And you’ll see how historical events shaped the art: works created under the Nazis (capturing confusion and alienation); scenes of postwar destruction; Cold War-era abstraction; and perspectives on the Wall from West Berlin artists.
Cost and Hours: €8, ask for discount if also going to the Jewish Museum, Wed-Mon 10:00-18:00, closed Tue, Alte Jakobstrasse 124, tel. 030/7890-2600, www.berlinischegalerie.de.
The sprawling Kreuzberg (KROYTS-behrk) neighborhood, just south of the center, is most often described as Berlin’s “Turkish neighborhood,” or its “edgy multicultural district.” And it is those things—but much more. It’s a delight to explore Kreuzberg’s fascinating little Kieze (small neighborhoods)—each with its own personality. (Note that the Jewish Museum and Berlinische Galerie—described previously—are technically in Kreuzberg.)
Kreuzberg is huge (four square miles, with about 150,000 residents), and broken into two general areas—each named for its postal code: “Kreuzberg 61” (or SW61), roughly north and west, is thought of as sleepy and more bourgeois. “Kreuzberg 36” (or SO36), loosely between Kottbusser Tor and the river, was traditionally the grittier area—with more immigrants and anarchists—but in recent years, several parts, including Graefekiez, have gentrified dramatically. Kreuzberg is well served by the north-south U6 line and the east-west U1 line; these cross at the epicenter of Kreuzberg, Kottbusser Tor.
A Kiez can be just a few blocks, barely big enough to contain a smattering of key services (grocery store, school, park), and typically named for a major street or square. Below are some recommended Kieze (mostly in Kreuzberg 36) with their handiest U-Bahn stop; you can easily walk (or ride the U-Bahn or bus) between several Kieze. Kreuzberg is also emerging as a foodie hotspot: You could combine your visit here with a meal (for suggestions, see “Eating in Berlin”). While these parts of Kreuzberg are relatively safe, after dark, stay close the main thoroughfares (and avoid Görlitzer Park).
Kottbusser Tor (U1/U6: Kottbusser Tor): Nicknamed “Kotti” by locals, this area is a lesson in contrasts. The area immediately around the station is seedy, but a few minutes’ walk in each direction, things become more pleasant.
Landwehr Canal and the Graefekiez (U8: Schönleinstrasse): A few short blocks south of Kottbusser Tor is one of Kreuzberg’s most enjoyable areas to explore, with the trendy Graefekiez neighborhood (and its many gourmet ice-cream shops). Twice each week, the Turkish street market sprawls along canalside Maybachufer street (Tue and Fri, described in “Shopping in Berlin,” later).
Paul-Lincke-Ufer (between U8: Schönleinstrasse and U1: Görlitzer Bahnhof): The sunny northern embankment of the Landwehr Canal—across from the Turkish street market, stretches east all the way to about Liegnitzer Strasse. It’s a pleasant, largely residential area to stroll and enjoy some of Berlin’s trendiest restaurants. Just up Lausitzer Strasse is the funky, artsy squatters’ courtyard called Regenbogenfabrik (“Rainbow Factory”), still run as a collective with its own cinema, kindergarten, and bike-repair shop. Between Forster Strasse and Liegnitzer Strasse are popular public lawn-bowling courts.
Oranienstrasse (U1/U8: Kottbusser Tor): From Kottbusser Tor, head a couple of blocks north to reach this main east-west drag, with lots of Turkish and Middle Eastern restaurants and cheap bars. You can take Oranienstrasse east (passing the famous punk club SO36) to the octagonal intersection at Mariannenstrasse. Here, detour a couple of blocks north and pass the firefighters monument to reach Mariannenplatz. On the left side of this huge park, the turreted building is a former hospital-turned-arts center, called Kunstquartier Bethanien. Its courtyard hosts an atmospheric restaurant/beer garden and a summer outdoor movie series (www.kunstquartier-bethanien.de).
Markthalle Neun (U1: Görlitzer Bahnhof): This area, just north of the Görlitzer Bahnhof U-Bahn station, hosts the wonderful Markthalle Neun, a restored brick market hall where foodie stalls rub shoulders with traditional vendors (for details on the Markthalle Neun and the least-seedy route to get there, see “Eating in Berlin”).
Wrangelkiez (U1: Schlesisches Tor): Wrangelstrasse, running between Markthalle Neun and the river, is a tidy grid-planned zone that feels equal parts young Turks, German hipsters, and, yes, a few Turkish hipsters. Falckensteinstrasse (the main cross-street to Wrangelstrasse) has a row of obnoxious, tourist-pub-crawl-type bars. Görlitzer Park, at the southern edge of this area, is fine by day—but after dark, it’s best avoided. Note that the Wrangelkiez (and the Schlessisches Tor station) is just across the river (on the picturesque Oberbaumbrücke—the Oberbaum Bridge) from the East Side Gallery—an easy add-on (see here).
Bergmannkiez (U7: Gneisenaustrasse): The most upscale of the Kreuzberg Kieze (in the posh “Kreuzberg 61”), the Bergmannkiez gentrified before gentrification was hot. From the Gneisenaustrasse U-Bahn stop, exit toward Mittenwalder Strasse, do a U-turn out of the staircase, and turn left (south) down Mittenwalder Strasse. After a couple of blocks, you’ll reach the glass-walled Marheineke Markthalle. The vendors inside are top-quality, and the square out front (Marheinekeplatz) is a total delight. A block to the east is a classic, parklike Prussian cemetery with a fine little café.
Back on Marheinekeplatz, head west down the neighborhood’s main artery, Bergmannstrasse—a fun place to browse. At the intersection with busy Mehringdamm, heading right (north) up Mehringdamm a few blocks takes you to the Mehringdamm U-Bahn station. Alternatively, carry on straight across Mehringdamm and continue up Kreuzbergstrasse to Viktoriapark, where a sturdy hike takes you up to “the” Kreuzberg—a frilly pillar with a cross (Kreuz) on top of a steep hill (Berg), designed by Karl Friedrich Schinkel to commemorate the Franco-Prussian War—which gave its name to this whole area. After the hike, reward yourself with a tankard at the Golgatha Gaststätten beer garden (near the stadium, behind the hill).
The first few sights—Karl-Liebknecht-Strasse, Alexanderplatz, and the TV Tower—are covered earlier, in my “Berlin City Walk.” To delve further into eastern Berlin, consider a walk along Karl-Marx-Allee, which stretches east from Alexanderplatz, or visit the neighborhood of Friedrichshain (just east of the core Mitte area). This quickly transforming neighborhood is where you’ll find the East Side Gallery and Stasi Museum.
This wide boulevard—connecting Alexanderplatz to Museum Island, and named for an early German communist pioneer—is lined with DDR-era landmarks, including the TV Tower, Marien Kirche (historic church kept open—barely—during communism), Rotes Rathaus (“Red City Hall” of former East Berlin), and statues of communism founders Karl Marx and Friedrich Engels, who studied in Berlin.
Marking the eastern end of the Unter den Linden/Karl-Liebknecht-Strasse thoroughfare, this kitschy-futuristic space was the main square of DDR-era East Berlin. Named (fittingly) for a Russian czar, under communist rule the square was turned into a model of Soviet aesthetics—with stern, blocky facades; a showpiece department store; a transit hub for trams and trains; and a trippy “World Time Clock.” Nearby is the start of the severely socialist-style Karl-Marx-Allee; originally named Stalinallee, it would have been more at home in Moscow than in Berlin.
One of Berlin’s landmarks, this 1,200-foot-tall massive spike is topped by a giant glittering disco ball. You’ll see it from just about anywhere in the city, and riding the elevator to the observation deck comes with sweeping (but almost too-high) views. The tower also has a TI, and various walking and bike tours leave from here.
Cost and Hours: €13, more expensive skip-the-line “fast track” tickets available online, daily 9:00-24:00, Nov-Feb from 10:00, Panoramastrasse 1A, www.tv-turm.de.
This socialist-style boulevard was designed after the original buildings here were leveled by the Red Army in 1945. As an expression of their adoration to the “great Socialist Father” (Stalin), the DDR government decided to rebuild the street better than ever (the USSR provided generous subsidies). They intentionally made it one meter wider than the Champs-Elysées, named it Stalinallee, and lined it with “workers’ palaces” built in the bold “Stalin Gothic” style so common in Moscow in the 1950s. Now renamed after Karl Marx, the street and its restored buildings provide a rare look at Berlin’s communist days. The pillars in the distance mark Strausberger Platz, the centerpiece of this socialist paradise.
On the tall, glassy building overlooking the intersection, notice the colorful tile-mosaic mural decorating the communist-era Ministry of Education. The mural trumpets the accomplishments of the DDR’s education system. East Germany—like all communist states—believed strongly in a well-educated populace...at least, about topics it deemed appropriate.
If you’re intrigued to see more of Karl-Marx-Allee, taxi or ride the U-Bahn to Strausberger Platz, which was built to resemble an Italian promenade (about a mile down the boulevard). The Café Sibylle, two long blocks beyond Strausberger Platz (at the intersection with Koppenstrasse), is a fun spot for a coffee, traditional DDR ice-cream treats, and a look at its free informal museum that tells the story of the most destroyed street in Berlin and also provides a few intimate insights into apartment life in a DDR flat. The café is known for its good coffee and Schwedeneisbecher mit Eierlikor—an ice-cream sundae with a shot of egg liqueur, about as fancy as things got under communism (Karl-Marx-Allee 72, tel. 030/2935-2203).
The biggest remaining stretch of the Wall is now the “world’s longest outdoor art gallery.” This segment of the Wall makes a meaningful walk—for those interested in street art and/or Berlin Wall history, it’s worth ▲▲. The gallery stretches for nearly a mile and is covered with murals painted by artists from around the world. The murals (classified as protected monuments) got a facelift in 2009, when the city invited the original artists back to re-create their work for the 20th anniversary of the fall of the Wall. For the history of the East Side Gallery, see www.eastsidegallery-berlin.de.
The most interesting stretch is its easternmost end, near the Oberbaumbrücke (Oberbaum Bridge), which crosses the Spree between Friedrichshain’s Warschauer Strasse station (U1 or S5/S7/S75) and Kreuzberg’s Wrangelkiez neighborhood (U1: Schlesisches Tor).
This extensive, thoughtfully presented exhibit tells the story of how the communist-era Ministry for State Security (a.k.a. Stasi)—headquartered in these very buildings—infiltrated all aspects of East German life. While the museum is quite dry and out of the way, it’s the best place in Berlin to learn about the Stasi. Exhibits fill three floors of the building where Stasi Minister Erich Mielke had his office. Everything is described in English, with lots of reading and several artifacts. At the entrance, check out the sprawling model of this neighborhood. The Stasi operation filled entire city blocks—essentially creating a city-within-the-city (54 acres, 50 buildings, 7,000 employees) for the sole purpose of surveilling its citizens. On official maps of East Berlin, this area showed up as blank space. For more on the Stasi, see the “Background” section on here.
Cost and Hours: €6, Mon-Fri 10:00-18:00, Sat-Sun 11:00-18:00, tel. 030/553-6854, www.stasimuseum.de. It’s a long haul from the center, at Ruschestrasse 103. Take the U5 to Magdalenenstrasse and exit toward Ruschestrasse. Up on the street, turn right up Ruschestrasse and watch on the right for the yellow sign—the museum is tucked far back in a courtyard.
▲Deutsche Kinemathek Film and TV Museum
▲Musical Instruments Museum (Musikinstrumenten Museum)
▲Museum of Decorative Arts (Kunstgewerbemuseum)
▲Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church (Gedächtniskirche)
Berlin Zoological Garden (Zoologischer Garten) and Aquarium
▲Charlottenburg Palace (Schloss Charlottenburg)
▲Scharf-Gerstenberg Collection
Map: Charlottenburg Palace Area
Berlin’s “Central Park” stretches two miles from the Reichstag and Brandenburg Gate to Berlin Zoological Garden. This vast, 500-acre park, once a royal hunting ground, is now packed with cycling paths, joggers, and—on hot days—nude sunbathers. The Tiergarten’s centerpiece—faintly visible in the distance from the Brandenburg Gate—is the Victory Column (Siegessäule). This was built to commemorate the Prussian defeat of Denmark in 1864...then reinterpreted after the defeat of France in 1870. The pointy-helmeted Germans rubbed it in, decorating the tower with French cannons and paying for it all with francs received as war reparations. The three lower rings commemorate Otto von Bismarck’s victories (Germany’s first prime minister). I imagine the statues of German military greats—which lurk among the trees nearby—goose-stepping around the floodlit angel at night.
Climbing the column’s 270 steps earns you a breathtaking Berlin-wide view and a close-up of the gilded bronze statue of the goddess Victoria (€3, daily April-Oct 9:30-18:30, until 19:00 Sat-Sun, Nov-March 10:00-17:00, closes for rain, no elevator, tel. 030/391-2961).
This area, a 15-minute walk from the Brandenburg Gate, is divided into the skyscraper zone of Potsdamer Platz and the arts-and-culture complex called the Kulturforum. For history buffs, the German Resistance Museum sits just beyond the Kulturforum.
This immense, 150-acre square is home to sleek skyscrapers, shopping malls, a transportation hub, several major corporate headquarters, upscale restaurants, and a few museums.
The architectural face of Potsdamer Platz has changed drastically over time: Berlin’s busiest intersection before World War II, it was bombed flat and remained a devastated wasteland until the 1990s, then quickly sprouted a forest of glassy skyscrapers, as if to trumpet the victory of capitalism. Visiting today, you’ll see a skyscraper panorama, a replica of Europe’s first traffic light, a boldly modern train station, a few chunks of the Berlin Wall, and the Sony Center shopping/entertainment complex. A good place to view it all is from the intersection of Potsdamer Strasse and Ebertstrasse. (From the S-Bahn or U-Bahn, exit following Leipziger Platz signs.) The next two sights are also nearby. A quick look at Potsdamer Platz also works well in conjunction with the nearby Kulturforum.
This exhibit is the most interesting place to visit within the Sony Center. Many early pioneers in filmmaking were German (including Fritz Lang, F. W. Murnau, Ernst Lubitsch, and the Austrian-born Billy Wilder)—and many became influential in Hollywood—making this a fun visit for cinephiles from anywhere. Your admission ticket gets you into several floors of exhibits made meaningful by the essential English audioguide. In the film section (floors 3 and 2), you’ll walk back in time to the German film industry’s beginnings, with an emphasis on the Weimar Republic period in the 1920s, when Berlin rivaled Hollywood; study the Nazi use of film as propaganda; and learn about today’s influential German filmmakers. The TV section (floors 3 and 4) tells the story of das Idioten Box from its infancy (when it was primarily used as a Nazi propaganda tool) to today.
Cost and Hours: €7, free Thu 16:00-20:00; open Tue-Sun 10:00-18:00, Thu until 20:00, closed Mon; audioguide-€2, Potsdamer Strasse 2, tel. 030/300-9030, www.deutsche-kinemathek.de.
Nearby: The Kino Arsenal theater downstairs shows offbeat art-house films in their original language.
Across Potsdamer Strasse from the Deutsche Kinemathek museum, you can ride what’s billed as the “fastest elevator in Europe” to skyscraping rooftop views. You’ll travel at nearly 30 feet per second to the top of the 300-foot-tall Kollhoff Tower. Its sheltered but open-air view deck provides a fun survey of Berlin’s changing skyline.
Cost and Hours: €7.50, €11.50 VIP ticket lets you skip the line, cash only, daily 10:00-20:00, until 18:00 in winter, in red-brick building at Potsdamer Platz 1, tel. 030/2593-7080, www.panoramapunkt.de.
Berlin’s other ensemble of museums (after Museum Island) fills a purpose-built facility just beyond Potsdamer Platz. Here you’ll find a variety of impressive museums and other cultural institutions, including exquisite European Masters at the Gemäldegalerie, musical instruments, and decorative arts. Its New National Gallery (which houses modern art) is closed, likely through 2021.
Combo-Tickets: All Kulturforum sights are covered by a €12 combo-ticket (can cost more if a special exhibit is on, www.kulturforum-berlin.de).
Getting There: Ride the S-Bahn or U-Bahn to Potsdamer Platz, then walk along Potsdamer Platz; from Alexanderplatz or Zoologischer Garten, you can take bus #200 to Philharmonie (though this can be slow during rush hour).
Getting Oriented: Locate the Kulturforum’s various buildings by first finding the green steeple of the St. Matthaus Church. Just to the left and beyond the church is the glass-walled New National Gallery. Panning to the right of the church, you find the low-lying, sprawling Gemäldegalerie—this area’s highlight. Further right is the cubical Museum of Decorative Arts. Then comes the golden, angular Philharmonic concert hall. Behind the concert hall (not really visible from here) is the Musical Instruments Museum (entered from Ben-Gurion-Strasse).
This “Painting Gallery” is one of Germany’s top collections of great works by European masters. The Gemäldegalerie shows off fine works from the 13th through 18th century. While there’s no one famous piece of art, you’ll get an enticing taste of just about all the big names. In the North Wing are painters from Germany (Albrecht Dürer, Hans Holbein, Lucas Cranach), the Low Countries (Jan van Eyck, Pieter Brueghel, Peter Paul Rubens, Anthony van Dyck, Frans Hals, Johannes Vermeer), Britain (Thomas Gainsborough), France (Antoine Watteau), and an impressive hall of Rembrandts. The South Wing is the terrain of Italian greats, including Giotto, Botticelli, Titian, Raphael, and Caravaggio.
Cost and Hours: €10, includes audioguide, covered by Kulturforum combo-ticket, Tue-Fri 10:00-18:00, Thu until 20:00, Sat-Sun 11:00-18:00, closed Mon, loaner stools, great salad bar in cafeteria upstairs, Matthäikirchplatz 4, tel. 030/266-424-242, www.smb.museum.
Visiting the Museum: When you buy your ticket, pick up the current museum map to help you locate specific paintings (artwork locations may change from descriptions listed). Northern Art is on one side (where we’ll begin) and Italian art is on the other (where we’ll end).
Note that inner rooms have Roman numerals (I, II, III), while adjacent outer rooms use Arabic numerals (1, 2, 3). We’ll work counterclockwise (and roughly chronologically) through the collection.
Hans Holbein the Younger, 1497-1543 (Room 1): Holbein’s portrait Merchant Georg Gisze (Der Kaufmann Georg Gisze, 1532) depicts a wealthy 34-year-old German businessman. His black beret and immaculate clothes mark him as a successful dealer in cloth. Around him are the tools of his trade—logbooks, business letters with wax seals, signet rings, scales, and coins. Typical of detail-rich Northern European art, the canvas is bursting with highly symbolic tidbits. The clock (on the table, inside the small gold canister) reminds the viewer that time passes and worldly success fades. The unbalanced scales suggest that wealth is fleeting. Those negative symbols are counterbalanced by the carnations and herbs in the vase, representing Gisze’s upcoming marriage.
Albrecht Dürer, 1471-1528 (Room 2): In 1494, the young Dürer traveled from Germany to Italy, where he soaked up the technique and spirit of the burgeoning Renaissance movement. In his portrait Hieronymus Holzschuher (1526), Dürer captured the personality of a white-bearded friend from Nürnberg, right down to the sly twinkle in his sidelong glance. Dürer does not gloss over the 57-year-old’s unflattering features like the wrinkles or receding hairline (with the clever comb-over).
Lucas Cranach the Elder, 1472-1553 (Room III): Cranach’s Fountain of Youth (Der Jungbrunnen, 1546) depicts the perennial human pursuit of eternal youth. Ladies flock to bathe in the swimming pool of youth. They arrive (on the left) as old women—by wagon, on horseback, carried by men, even in a wheelbarrow. They strip and enter with sagging breasts, frolic awhile in the pool, rinse and repeat, then emerge (on the right) young again. Newly nubile, the women go into a tent to dress up, snog with noblemen in the bushes (right foreground), dance merrily beneath the trees, and dine grandly beneath a landscape of mountains and towers.
Rogier van der Weyden, 1400-1464 (Room IV): Netherlandish painters were early adopters of oil paint, and Van der Weyden was a virtuoso of the new medium. In Portrait of a Young Woman (Bildnis einer jungen Frau, 1440-1445), the subject wears a typical winged bonnet, addressing the viewer directly with her fetching blue eyes. In the same room is a remarkable, rare trio of three-panel altarpieces by Van der Weyden—showing the life of the Virgin Mary, the life of John the Baptist, and the story of the Nativity. Savor the fine details in each panel.
Peter Paul Rubens, 1577-1640 (Room VIII): We’ve fast-forwarded a hundred years, and it’s apparent how much the Protestant Reformation changed the tenor of Northern European art. Rubens’ paintings represent the Catholic response, the Counter-Reformation. You’ll see huge, brightly colored canvases of Mary, alongside angels, bishops, and venerated saints (like the arrow-pierced martyr, St. Sebastian). This exuberant Baroque style trumpeted the greatness of the Catholic Church.
You’ll also catch glimpses of Rubens’ second wife, Helene Fourment, in mythological scenes such as Andromeda (1638). Helene, the amply-figured nymph with a sweetly smiling face, came to define the phrase “Ruben-esque.”
Frans Hals, c. 1582-1666 (Room 13): Hals’ Portrait of Catharina Hooft with Her Nurse (Bildnis der Catharina Hooft mit ihrer Amme, 1619-1620) presents a startlingly self-possessed baby (the newest member of a wealthy merchant family), dressed in the lacy, jeweled finery of a queen and clutching a golden rattle. At the other end of the social spectrum is Hals’ Malle Babbe (1633-1635). The subject, a notorious barfly nicknamed “Crazy” Babbe, was well known in Hals’ hometown. Hals captures her in a snapshot from the local pub, hefting her pewter beer stein and turning to laugh at a joke. The messy brushstrokes that define her collar and cap are as wild and lively as her over-the-top personality.
Rembrandt van Rijn, 1606-1669 (Room X): The ultimate Dutch master, Rembrandt was propelled to fame in his lifetime by his powers of perception and invention. Browse Room X and the adjoining galleries to get a taste of the range of Rembrandt’s work. There are storytelling scenes, taut with pulse-racing emotion (The Rape of Persephone, 1631, Room 16). There are Bible scenes (Samson and Delilah, 1628-1629, Room 16; Samson Threatens His Father-in-Law, 1635, Room X).
And there are expressive portraits. In Room X, a Self-Portrait (1634) shows Rembrandt wearing a beret. The 28-year-old genius was already famous. He soon married the beautiful Saskia (Portrait of Saskia, 1643, Room 16), and seemed to have it all. But then Saskia died, Rembrandt declared bankruptcy, and his painting style went out of fashion...all of which contributed to his brooding, dark canvases.
Johannes Vermeer, 1632-1675 (Room 18): Vermeer was a master at conveying a complicated story through a deceptively simple scene with a few significant details. Young Woman with a Pearl Necklace (1664) is classic Vermeer. He lets us glimpse an intimate, unguarded moment in the life of an everyday woman. She wears a beautiful yellow coat with an ermine fur lining, ribbons in her hair, and pearl earrings. Vermeer tells us a bit about the woman with objects on the table: her comb, make-up brush, and water bowl.
Caravaggio, 1573–1610 (Room XIV): In the year 1600, living in Rome, Caravaggio burst onto the scene with a new and shocking art style. Even religious and allegorical subjects got his uncompromising, gritty, ultrarealistic treatment. In Caravaggio’s Amor Vincit Omnia (1601-1602), “Love Conquers All.” Cupid stands victorious over all the vain accomplishments of ambitious men: Military triumphs (symbolized by the fallen armor), Art (the discarded musical instruments), Literature (paper and pen), Science (a globe), Grand Architecture (compass and square), and Power (the crown). Cupid—a young, naked boy—mocks those grown-up ambitions. He laughs derisively and splays his genitals over the fallen symbols.
Now turn your attention to a painting in Room XIV by a different artist—Giovanni Baglione’s Sacred and Profane Love (1602-1603). Baglione was hired by a conservative cardinal to paint a moralizing response to Caravaggio. Here, the main figure is a more upright incarnation of love—Sacred Love—embodied by a radiant angel. He corners his rascally counterpart, the cowering and “Profane” little Cupid (lower right).
Music lovers appreciate this beautifully displayed collection of 600 different items, going back to the 1500s. The included audioguide brings the collection to life and lets you actually hear a few of the instruments in action (€6, covered by Kulturforum combo-ticket, Tue-Fri 9:00-17:00, Thu until 20:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-17:00, closed Mon, Tiergartenstrasse 1, www.sim.spk-berlin.de).
Nearby: Berlin’s yellow Philharmonic Concert Hall sits just beyond the Musical Instruments Museum (ticket office open Mon-Fri 15:00-18:00, Sat-Sun 11:00-14:00 except closed July-Aug, tel. 030/2548-8999—answered daily 9:00-18:00, www.berliner-philharmoniker.de).
Berlin’s answer to London’s Victoria and Albert Museum collects applied arts over a millennium—from shimmering reliquaries (the Guelph Treasure) and delicate porcelain to Art Deco and Jugendstil furnishings, and much more. The highlights are the Dome Reliquary (an elaborately decorated, church-shaped container for saints’ bones) and an appealing collection of women’s fashions over the centuries (€8, covered by Kulturforum combo-ticket, Tue-Fri 10:00-18:00, Sat-Sun from 11:00, closed Mon, Matthäikirchplatz, www.smb.museum).
The area now called City West has seen a lot of history. When Berlin’s zoo was built here in the 1840s, this area was farm fields. It developed at a fast clip, and by the advent of the Cold War, Ku’Damm was West Berlin’s main drag. The West German government poured funds into building Europa Center—glittering skyscrapers to house the headquarters of international businesses, a bold outpost of capitalism. The Schöneberg City Hall became the seat of West Berlin government, and the site of JFK’s famous visit. But with the fall of the Wall, West Berlin became passé, and investors focused on developing previously inaccessible swaths of the East.
The following sights in the heart of the former “West Berlin” cluster near Kurfürstendamm boulevard. To get here, ride the S-Bahn to Zoologischer Garten. For a map, see here.
Kurfürstendamm boulevard (nicknamed “Ku’damm”) starts at Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church and does a commercial cancan for two miles. In the 1850s, when Berlin became a wealthy and important capital, her “new rich” chose Kurfürstendamm as their street. In the 1870s, Bismarck made it Berlin’s Champs-Elysées. In the 1920s, it was a stylish and fashionable drag of cafés and boutiques. During the Third Reich it was home to an international community of diplomats and journalists, and throughout the Cold War, economic subsidies from the West ensured that capitalism thrived here. Today, Berlin’s focus has shifted east and Ku’damm feels more “international-touristy” than “authentic Berlin”—with a Hard Rock Café and a Käthe Wohlfahrt Christmas ornament superstore. But it remains a fine place to enjoy elegant shops (around Fasanenstrasse), department stores, and people-watching.
This church was originally dedicated to the first emperor of Germany, Wilhelm I. Reliefs and mosaics show great events in the life of Germany’s favorite kaiser, from his coronation in 1871 to his death in 1888. The church’s bombed-out ruins have been left standing as a memorial to Berlin’s destruction in World War II, with a new church constructed next door.
Cost and Hours: Church-free, daily 9:00-19:00—or until 18:00 if there’s a concert; Memorial Hall-free, Mon-Fri 10:00-18:00, Sat 10:00-17:30, Sun 12:00-17:30. Located on Breitscheidplatz, U2/U9 and S-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten or U1/U9: Kurfürstendamm, www.gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de.
Visiting the Church: Start your visit by picking up the English flier for information on both churches. Bullet holes dot the exterior of the ruined church. After the war, some Berliners wanted to tear down the ruins, but instead they were kept as a Memorial Hall. Inside, under a Neo-Romanesque mosaic ceiling, you’ll find a small photo exhibit and before-and-after models of the church.
To replace the ruined church, the authorities held a competition to design a contemporary annex. The winning entry—the short, modern church (1961) across from the Memorial Hall—offers a meditative world of 11,000 little blue windows. The blue glass was given to the church by the French as a reconciliation gift. As you enter, turn immediately right to find a simple charcoal sketch of the Virgin Mary wrapped in a shawl. During the Battle of Stalingrad, German combat surgeon Kurt Reuber rendered the Virgin on the back of a stolen Soviet map to comfort the men in his care. Though Reuber died in captivity a year later, his sketch was flown out of Stalingrad on the last medical evacuation flight, and postwar Germany embraced it as a symbol of the wish for peace. Copies of the drawing, now known as the Stalingrad Madonna, hang in the Berlin Cathedral, in St. Michael’s Cathedral in Coventry, England, and in the Kozan Cathedral in Russia’s Volgograd (formerly Stalingrad) as a sign of reconciliation among nations.
Nearby: The lively square between the churches and the Europa Center attracts street musicians and performers—especially in the summer. Berliners call the funky fountain the “Wet Meatball.” Overlooking the scene is the newly renovated Bikinihaus shopping mall, with a mix of local and international shops, pop-up stores, and an upstairs terrace peering down into the zoo.
This local artist (1867-1945), who experienced much of Berlin’s stormiest century, conveyed powerful, deeply felt emotions about motherhood, war, and suffering through the stark faces of her art. This small yet fine collection consists of three floors of charcoal drawings and woodcuts, topped by an attic with a handful of sculptures.
Cost and Hours: €7, daily 11:00-18:00, a block off Ku’damm at Fasanenstrasse 24, U-Bahn: Uhlandstrasse, tel. 030/882-5210, www.kaethe-kollwitz.de.
Visiting the Museum: Floor 1 focuses on the relatively happy first half of her life, when she drew from interactions with the poor to create some of her most moving works. You’ll see how she gained confidence and found her artistic voice in her depictions of the Peasants’ Revolt (1520s) and the Weavers’ Revolt (1844). Floor 2 continues the story with the turning point in her life: 1914, when her first-born son died in battle on Flanders Fields. You’ll see her transition to a woodcut technique. Posters from this era show her social conscience—shaming Germans into helping feed their starving compatriots. Her self-portraits from the 1930s are imbued with a world-weariness that will only intensify with the death of her grandson, fighting in Russia, in World War II. (These losses inspired her to create her most famous work, the powerful pietà inside Germany’s war memorial at the Neue Wache—see here.) Floor 3 displays her sculptures. While best known during her lifetime for her prints, Kollwitz favored sculpting. But lack of access to materials meant that she produced relatively few works.
More than 1,500 kinds of animals call Berlin’s famous zoo home...or so the zookeepers like to think. The zoo and the world-class adjacent aquarium draw gaggles of school kids and their frazzled chaperones. For a free look into the monkey enclosure, head inside the nearby Bikinihaus shopping center, where the ground-floor windows offer an eye-level glimpse at the playful primates (or for a delightful bird’s-eye view, head to the mall’s rooftop terrace).
Cost and Hours: Zoo-€14.50, aquarium-€14.50, €20 for both, kids half-price, daily 9:00-18:30, until 16:30 in winter, aquarium closes at 18:00 year-round; feeding times—Fütterungszeiten—posted just inside entrance; the best feeding show is the sea lions—generally at 15:15; enter zoo near Europa Center in front of Hotel Palace or opposite Zoologischer Garten station on Hardenbergplatz, Budapester Strasse 34, tel. 030/254-010, www.zoo-berlin.de, www.aquarium-berlin.de.
The “Department Store of the West” has been a Berlin tradition for more than a century. With a staff of 2,100 to help you sort through its vast selection of 450,000 items (up 70,000 items from my visit last year), KaDeWe claims to be the biggest department store on the Continent. You can get everything from a haircut (third floor) to souvenirs (fourth floor). The cash-only theater and concert box office on the sixth floor charges an 18 percent booking fee, but they know all your options. The sixth floor is a world of gourmet taste treats. The biggest selection of deli and exotic food in Germany offers plenty of classy opportunities to sit down and eat. Ride the glass elevator to the seventh floor’s glass-domed Winter Garden, a self-service cafeteria—fun but pricey.
Hours: Mon-Thu 10:00-20:00, Fri until 21:00, Sat 9:30-20:00, closed Sun, S-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten or U-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz, tel. 030/21210, www.kadewe.de.
Nearby: The Wittenbergplatz U-Bahn station (in front of KaDeWe) is a unique opportunity to see an old-time station. The first subway station in Berlin (1902), its interior still has classic advertisements decorating its venerable walls. On the KaDeWe side of the station, a sign lists sites of Nazi concentration camps—one of many examples of present-day Germans ensuring that the crimes of their ancestors are never forgotten.
The Wittenbergplatz station also marks the boundary of the adjacent Schöneberg district, immediately southeast of the Ku’damm corridor. Here you’ll find the Schöneberg City Hall, which became the de facto seat of the West Berlin city government. It was on the city hall’s front steps, on June 26, 1963, that John F. Kennedy stood in solidarity with the people of West Berlin: “Ich bin ein Berliner.”
Halfway to the airport, tucked in an upscale residential neighborhood at the northwestern edge of the city, sits Charlottenburg Palace—once a suburban residence of Prussian royalty (including Frederick the Great). While there are far better palaces in Germany—including just out of town in Potsdam (see the Day Trips from Berlin chapter)—Charlottenburg offers an easy and accessible look at a royal interior. For art lovers, this area is even more appealing for its cluster of three museums just across the street from the palace, which combine to present a remarkable array of early-20th-century art: Surrealism (Scharf-Gerstenberg Collection); Picasso, Matisse, and Klee (Museum Berggruen); and furniture and decorative arts in the Jugendstil and Art Deco styles (Bröhan Museum).
Getting There: Ride U7 to Richard-Wagner Platz or U2 to Sophie-Charlotte Platz and walk 10 minutes up the tree-lined boulevard Schlossstrasse (from either stop, follow signs to Schloss), or—much faster—catch bus #M45 (direction: Spandau) direct from Zoologischer Garten or bus #109 from along Ku’damm (direction: Flughafen Tempel). You can also take the S-Bahn to Westend, then ride bus #M45 (or walk 10 minutes). From any bus, you want the Schloss Charlottenburg stop.
Eating: For lunch on Luisenplatz just east of the palace, try the traditional German grub at Brauhaus Lemke brewpub or sample Russian specialties at Samowar (both open daily).
Charlottenburg Palace is the largest former residence of the royal Hohenzollern family in Berlin, and contains the biggest collection of 17th-century French fresco painting outside France. If you’ve seen the great palaces of Europe, this Baroque palace comes in at about number 10. I’d rate it behind Potsdam, too, though Charlottenburg is arguably a more pleasant outing: It’s easy to reach, involves no timed tickets, has good included audioguides, and is across the street from a pair of great art museums. The palace has several parts: the central “Old Palace” (Altes Schloss), renovated in 2017; the New Wing (Neue Flügel); a variety of other royal pavilions; and sprawling gardens.
Cost and Hours: New Wing-€10, Old Palace-€12, prices include audioguides, smaller buildings-€4 each, combo-ticket for everything-€17; all buildings open Tue-Sun 10:00-18:00, Nov-March until 17:00, closed Mon year-round; tel. 0331/969-4200, www.spsg.de.
Visiting the Palace: The New Wing (Neue Flügel, a.k.a. the Knobelsdorff Wing) features Rococo royal apartments and fine paintings. First you’ll head upstairs and walk through the sumptuous, gold-crusted State Rooms. The highlight is the 105-foot-long Golden Gallery, a real-life Cinderella ballroom with rich green walls, faux marble, gold flourishes, glittering chandeliers, and different details over each doorway and window frame. You’ll also see Frederick the Great’s apartments (the concert chamber where he played and composed on the flute, and his study and bedroom). Retracing your steps, you’ll enter the Winter Rooms, dating from after Frederick’s time—warm and rich, and cozy with tapestries. Rooms of royal portraits lead to the old wing, with more Frederick the Great apartments and collections of silver and porcelain. Back downstairs is a painting gallery, with two highlights: In the antechamber, look for the painting of a huge parade in front of Unter den Linden’s Neue Wache. Then, at the end of this wing, don’t miss the famous Napoleon Crossing the Alps—one of five originals done by Jacques-Louis David.
When open, the Altes Schloss’ highlight is its Porcelain Cabinet—a crazy melding of trompe l’oeil painting and 3-D stucco work.
Out back are sprawling gardens that are fun and free to wander in good weather, with a few skippable royal pavilions. The one that may be worth considering—past the end of the New Wing—is the New Pavilion, offering a concise and accessible look at the two big names of German Romanticism: the paintings of Caspar David Friedrich and Karl Friedrich Schinkel.
This pleasant museum houses more than 250 works of Surrealist and pre-Surrealist art, with works by big names including Joan Miró, Salvador Dalí, Paul Klee, Jean Debuffet, and Francisco de Goya, juxtaposed with lesser-known Germanic artists, such as Otto Dix, Max Ernst, and George Grosz. The collection is thoughtfully organized by theme, as if these great artists were in conversation. Note that these are “deep cuts” rather than “greatest hits,” making this worth ▲▲ for someone with an affinity for this kind of art, but not worth the trip for those with a casual interest.
Cost and Hours: €10 combo-ticket includes audioguide and Museum Berggruen, can be more during special exhibits, Tue-Fri 10:00-18:00, Sat-Sun from 11:00, closed Mon, Schlossstrasse 70, tel. 030/266-424-242, www.smb.museum.
This tidy museum—with lesser-known works by some big-name modern artists (especially Picasso)—is a pleasant surprise. The first floor features some of his earlier works: Blue Period, newspaper collages, and early Cubism (including a study for the seminal Les Demoiselles d’Avignon). The second (top) floor shows off how the prolific artist dabbled in virtually every medium: ceramic, mixed media, doodles, pencil sketches, and, of course, painting. The ground floor has a fine collection of Italian sculptor Alberto Giacometti. In the annex are notable works by Henri Matisse, Paul Cézanne, and a huge collection of pieces by Paul Klee. Everything is thoughtfully described in English.
Cost and Hours: €10 combo-ticket includes audioguide and Scharf-Gerstenberg Collection, Tue-Fri 10:00-18:00, Sat-Sun from 11:00, closed Mon, Schlossstrasse 1, tel. 030/266-424-242, www.smb.museum.
This beautifully understated museum displays decorative arts from the early 20th century on three floors (permanent exhibits on ground floor, temporary exhibits upstairs). This collection makes you wish you were furnishing a 1900s Berlin apartment. Wander through a dozen Jugendstil and Art Deco living rooms, a curvy and eye-pleasing organic world of lamps, glass, silver, and posters. English descriptions are posted in some rooms, and the included audioguide does a fair job describing the rest. Rotating exhibits feature various subjects associated with the design history of the Art Deco and Art Nouveau movements.
Cost and Hours: €8, more with special exhibits, Tue-Sun 10:00-18:00, closed Mon, Schlossstrasse 1A, tel. 030/3269-0600, www.broehan-museum.de.
Berlin has three opera companies, multiple symphonies and chamber orchestras, and organ concerts in churches nearly every day of the week. But you’ll also find wild dance clubs, hipster ballrooms, dilapidated techno beach bars, and smoky jazz cellars.
Entertainment Info: The TI can provide basic information about what’s on; for classical music, look for the free, monthly Concerti magazine. For good listings of live music, see www.askhelmut.com. Or shell out a few euros for a Berlin magazine (€4-5, sold at kiosks): Zitty (www.zitty.de) and Tip (www.tip-berlin.de) are the top guides to alternative culture (mostly in German); Exberliner Magazine is colorfully written in English (www.exberliner.com). Also pick up the free 030 schedule in bars and clubs (www.berlin030.de).
Half-Price Tickets: Hekticket, Berlin’s ticket clearinghouse, offers advance tickets to concerts, cabaret, theater, etc. And every day after 14:00, they sell deeply discounted last-minute tickets (up to half off, ticket prices usually range from €10 to €40). You can either call or check online (tel. 030/230-9930, www.hekticket.de, pay by credit card), or visit one of their locations (cash only) to see what’s on the push list for that evening. Booths are near Alexanderplatz (Mon-Fri 10:30-19:00, closed Sat-Sun, Alexanderstrasse 1 across from Hotel Park Inn) and in City West (Mon-Sat 12:00-20:00, Sun 14:00-18:00, across from Zoologischer Garten train station at Hardenbergstrasse 29).
Smoking: Berlin bars that don’t sell food may allow smoking (unlike in much of Europe).
Late-Hours Sightseeing: Berlin’s museums typically close at 18:00, but many stay open later at least one day a week. Four of the biggies are open late every day: the Reichstag (until midnight, last entry at 22:00), the Museum of the Wall at Checkpoint Charlie (until 22:00), the Topography of Terror (until 20:00), and the Jewish Museum (Tue-Sun until 20:00, 22:00 on Mon). All the Museum Island museums are open until 20:00 on Thursdays. Outdoor monuments such as the Berlin Wall Memorial and the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe are accessible, safe, and pleasantly lit late into the night, though their visitor centers close earlier.
Housed in a striking, modern building at the Kulturforum cultural complex, the Berlin Philharmonic is a perennial Top Ten orchestra in the world rankings. Inexpensive and legitimate tickets are often sold on the street an hour before performances. Or you can buy tickets at the box office, by phone, or online (ticket office open Mon-Fri 15:00-18:00, Sat-Sun 11:00-14:00 except closed July-Aug, tel. 030/2548-8999—answered daily 9:00-18:00, July-Aug until 16:00, www.berliner-philharmoniker.de). The philharmonic also presents a popular series of free lunch concerts (most Tue at 13:00 except in July-Aug, tickets handed out in person the same day—try to arrive by 12:00).
In the historic core, these include the gorgeous, Schinkel-designed Konzerthaus Berlin on Gendarmenmarkt (home of the Konzerthausorchester symphony orchestra, popular 45-minute “espresso concert” series Wed at 14:00, tel. 030/203-092-101, www.konzerthaus.de) and the cutting-edge, Frank Gehry-designed Pierre Boulez Saal (theater-in-the-round chamber music, not far from Bebelplatz at Französische Strasse 33D, tel. 030/4799-7411, www.boulezsaal.de). To enjoy an affordable (sometimes free) recital by talented students, consider the Hochschule für Musik Hanns Eisler, with two venues in the historical center (facing Gendarmenmarkt at Charlottenstrasse 55, and on Museum Island at Schlossplatz 7, tel. 030/203-092-101, www.hfm-berlin.de).
The most historic opera venue is the stately Staatsoper, on Bebelplatz overlooking Unter den Linden. While that building is being renovated, the Berlin State Opera is performing at the Schiller Theater (in City West, just north of the Savignyplatz hotel and restaurant neighborhood, U2: Ernst-Reuter-Platz, box office tel. 030/2035-4555, www.staatsoper-berlin.de). Quite different is Berlin’s famous Komische Oper, with a long tradition for avant-garde, adventurous performances (near Unter den Linden and Friedrichstrasse at Behrenstrasse 55, tel. 030/4799-7400, www.komische-oper-berlin.de). The modern Deutsche Oper building (in Charlottenburg, near City West) houses both its own opera company and the Berlin State Ballet (Bismarckstrasse 35, U2: Deutsche Oper, tel. 030/3438-4343, www.deutscheoperberlin.de).
Several Berlin churches and other venues offer frequent daytime and early evening concerts. Even “free” concerts request a donation.
Marien Church: Along Karl-Liebknecht-Strasse near the TV Tower, free organ concerts twice weekly (Thu and Fri at 13:30, www.marienkirche-berlin.de), as well as a variety of other concerts.
Nikolaikirche: In the Nikolai Quarter, 30-minute organ concerts on Friday at 17:00 (€8, www.en.stadtmuseum.de/nikolaikirche).
French Cathedral: On Gendarmenmarkt, 30-minute organ concerts on Tuesdays at 15:00 (€3, www.franzoesische-friedrichstadtkirche.de).
St. Hedwig’s Catholic Cathedral: On Bebelplatz, free 30-minute organ concerts on Wednesdays (at 15:00, www.hedwigs-kathedrale.de).
Berlin Cathedral: On Museum Island, evening concerts ranging from organ to choral (weekends, tickets at door—prices vary, www.berlinerdom.de).
Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church: In City West, quality concerts (some free, sporadic schedule, often choral, www.gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de).
Clärchens Ballhaus: Not a church but the Scheunenviertel’s beloved, classic ballroom, concerts most Sunday evenings in its twinkling upstairs Mirror Room, the Spiegelsaal (€12, often piano or small ensembles, usually begins at 19:00 or 19:30, www.sonntagskonzerte.de).
Berlin has a lively jazz scene (for schedules, see www.jazzclubsinberlin.com). Each of the following has live music nightly from 21:00 (doors open at 20:00).
In City West (near Savignyplatz), consider A Trane Jazz Club (great stage and intimate seating, €10-25 cover depending on act, Bleibtreustrasse 1—see map on here, tel. 030/313-2550, www.a-trane.de).
Near the TV Tower, B-Flat Acoustic Music and Jazz Club has live shows and jam sessions (from free to €10-14, in Alexanderplatz at Dircksenstrasse 40—see map on here, tel. 030/283-3123, www.b-flat-berlin.de).
Kunstfabrik Schlot, northwest of Scheunenviertel, is another respected venue (from free to €12-15, tucked back in a courtyard at Invalidenstrasse 117, see map on here, U6: Naturkundemuseum, tel. 030/448-2160, www.kunstfabrik-schlot.de).
Since the cabaret days, Berlin has had a flair for the dramatic. Most of these offerings are in German only. For the big spectacles, the language matters less.
Bar Jeder Vernunft, in City West, offers modern-day cabaret under a classic old tent a short walk from my recommended Savignyplatz hotels (€25-30, performances generally Tue-Sat at 20:00, Sun at 19:00, seating can be cramped, south of Ku’damm at Schaperstrasse 24—see map on here, U3 or U9: Spichernstrasse, tel. 030/883-1582, www.bar-jeder-vernunft.de).
Just north of Unter den Linden, the Friedrichstadtpalast stages glitzy spectacles (Friedrichstrasse 107, www.palast.berlin). Nearby, a bit closer in to Unter den Linden, the historic Admiralspalast Theater features lower-key concerts, plays, and musicals (including the Distel Cabaret Theater company; Friedrichstrasse 101, www.mehr.de/en/venues/admiralspalast-berlin).
Other venues to consider: Theater RambaZamba, in Prenzlauer Berg’s Kulturbrauerei, highlights performers who are disabled and creatively transforms those “disabilities” into assets (www.theater-rambazamba.org). Chamäleon, inside Hackesche Höfe, channels the creative spirit of 1920s Berlin (www.chamaeleonberlin.com). Kookaburra, between my Scheunenviertel and Prenzlauer Berg hotels, is a comedy club that regularly presents acts in English (usually Tue at 20:00, Schönhauserallee 184, www.comedyclub.de). And the Berliner Festspiele often hosts Off-Broadway-type fringe theater (www.berlinerfestspiele.de).
Berlin has a staggering array of smaller music venues. Here’s a sampling worth consideration: Frannz Club, in Prenzlauer Berg’s Kulturbrauerei, was a DDR-era hotspot; today it attracts talented rock and alternative bands (www.frannz.com). Bassy Club, near Senefelder Platz in Prenzlauer Berg, is a surreal cowboy-themed club boasting “wild music before 1969” (www.bassyclub.com). Aufsturz pub, the recommended pub in the Scheunenviertel, hosts jazz and other music (see “Eating in Berlin,” later, www.aufsturz.de). And SO36, on Oranienstrasse in Kreuzberg, is Berlin’s most venerable punk venue (www.so36.de).
Big concerts are often held at Olympic Stadium, Mercedes-Benz Arena in Friedrichshain, the Spandau Citadel, and the outdoor Waldbühne (“Forest Stage”).
Great places to stroll while people-watching Berliners include the Spree riverbank (especially around Monbijoupark and Museum Island); Prenzlauer Berg’s Kastanienallee, Oderberger Strasse, and Helmholtzplatz; and Kreuzberg’s Paul-Lincke-Ufer, a leafy embankment on the Landwehr Canal with upscale homes and a lively boules court. The Scheunenviertel’s Oranienburger Strasse (near the New Synagogue) and City West’s Europaplatz/Kurfürstendamm boulevard are packed, but are more tourist-oriented.
To nurse a drink, stop by a Biergarten. Big, beloved, and lively choices include Prater Biergarten, in Prenzlauer Berg (here); Schleusenkrug in City West, tucked back in the park near the Zoologischer Garten train station (here); and Golgatha Gaststätten in Kreuzberg’s Viktoriapark (here).
An even more summery variation is Berlin’s emerging beach bar scene—where people grab a drink along the riverfront and watch the excursion boats go by. The classic spot is the Strandbar Mitte in Monbijoupark, with a breezy and scenic setting overlooking the Bode Museum on Museum Island.
The old ballroom Clärchens Ballhaus has been a Berlin institution since 1913. The music changes every day—swing, waltz, tango, or cha-cha—with live music on Friday and Saturday (from 23:15, €7-9 cover; dance hall open daily from 11:00 until the last person goes home, in the heart of the Auguststrasse gallery district at Auguststrasse 24—see map on here, S-Bahn: Oranienburger Strasse, tel. 030/282-9295, www.ballhaus.de). If you enjoy the Ballhaus scene, consider the campy (and less venerable) Ballhaus Berlin, just west of Prenzlauer Berg (Chausseestrasse 102, U6: Naturkundemuseum, www.ballhaus-berlin.de).
Berlin boasts the largest tango scene outside Buenos Aires (well-described at www.tangoberlin.de). In summer, it’s easy to get a taste of tango on any balmy night in the riverside Monbijoupark, between Museum Island and Hackescher Markt (www.monbijou-theater.de).
Shops all over town stock the typical array of souvenirs (T-shirts, posters, bottle openers, etc.) emblazoned with icons of Berlin: Brandenburg Gate, TV Tower, Berlin Wall, bears (the namesake and official mascot of “Bear-lin”), and so on.
One big draw is communist kitsch. Gift shops at museums (such as the DDR Museum or the Museum of the Wall at Checkpoint Charlie) sell a variety of “East Berlin” paraphernalia: circa-1968 city maps that mysteriously leave out West Berlin, postcards and posters of DDR propaganda or famous Wall escapes, miniature Trabis, old DDR military armbands and medals, and defunct communist currency. If you’re looking for authentic communist artifacts, head to the flea market by the Ostbahnhof (Sun mornings, described later).
Maybe the top communist kitsch souvenir is something—anything—with the image of the Ampelmann (traffic-light man), the DDR-era crossing-guard symbol that’s become Berlin’s unofficial mascot. The best selection is at the local chain of Ampelmann shops, with locations all over the city. The flagship store—with a hunk of Berlin Wall autographed by David Hasselhoff (no joke)—is along Unter den Linden at #35 (at the corner with Friedrichstrasse).
One communist-era souvenir to avoid is an “authentic” chunk of the Berlin Wall—enough of which have been sold since 1989 to encircle all of Germany. Don’t trust any vendor who swears they chipped it off the Wall themselves. (And, because the few remaining stretches of Wall are now protected monuments, it’s not appropriate to chisel off your own souvenir.)
Berlin’s true forte is design. In this city of stylish young urbanites, the streets are lined with hipster gift shops that sell ironic T-shirts, clever kitchen or desk gadgets, snarky books and postcards, and so on.
In such an outdoorsy city, some of the most enjoyable “shopping” experiences aren’t in shopping malls or hole-in-the-wall boutiques, but at sprawling outdoor flea markets and farmers markets.
Virtually every Berlin neighborhood hosts a regular flea market.
Prenzlauer Berg: The Sunday rummage market in the Mauerpark isn’t just about buying and selling—it’s an excuse for a big, weekly, community-wide party. If it’s nice out, people come here simply to chill, drink, barbecue, and socialize. You’ll find lots of inventive snack stalls and, in the afternoon, karaoke in the park’s amphitheater (Sun 9:00-18:00, U2: Eberswalder Strasse, www.flohmarktimmauerpark.de). Several blocks south, Sunday is also the time for a lively “junk market” (Trödelmarkt) on Arkonaplatz (10:00-16:00, U8: Bernauer Strasse or a 10-minute walk from Mauerpark).
Scheunenviertel: Just across the Spree from Monbijoupark, the riverbank facing the Bode Museum hosts a weekend antique-and-book market (Sat-Sun 10:00-17:00, tram #M1 or #12 to Am Kupfergraben or a 10-minute walk from Hackescher Markt or Friedrichstrasse S-Bahn stations, www.antik-buchmarkt.de). Closer to the heart of the Scheunenviertel, Hackescher Markt hosts a twice-weekly market with an odd variety of produce, clothes, trinkets, jewelry, hats, and food stalls; while smaller, more touristy, and less funky than the best Berlin markets, it’s conveniently located (Thu 9:00-18:00, Sat from 10:00).
Kreuzberg: Along the south bank of Landwehr Canal, the twice-weekly Turkish street market is a very local place to shop for everything from clothes and fabrics to basic housewares to produce and meat. The clientele is a mix of Turkish and Middle Eastern immigrants, Kreuzberg punks, and a smattering of tourists. I’d come here more for the people-watching than for souvenirs (Tue and Fri 11:00-18:30, U8: Schönleinstrasse, for location see map on here).
Friedrichshain: The swiftly gentrifying square Boxhagener Platz (affectionately called “Boxi” by locals) hosts a lively flea market on Sundays (10:00-18:00, U5: Samariterstrasse or U1/S5/S7: Warschauer Strasse plus a lengthy walk, www.troedelmarkt-arkonaplatz.de; also a Sat farmers market—see later). On Sunday mornings, the Antikmarkt Ostbahnhof (on the north side of the Ostbahnhof S-Bahn station) is the place to pick through the Cold War knickknacks that keep turning up in the basements of former East Berliners.
Near Tiergarten Park: One of Berlin’s largest flea markets is right next to the Tiergarten park on Strasse des 17 Juni, with great antiques, more than 200 stalls, collector-savvy merchants, and fun German fast-food stands (Sat-Sun 10:00-17:00, S-Bahn: Tiergarten, www.berlinertroedelmarkt.com).
The city’s best food market is Kreuzberg’s Markthalle Neun, with a variety of vendors and even more activity during the thrice-weekly farmers market (Tue and Fri 12:00-20:00, Sat 10:00-18:00) and on “Street Food Thursdays.”
Another local favorite is on Boxhagener Platz in Friedrichshain (farmers market Sat 9:00-15:30, see also Sunday flea market, listed earlier). Prenzlauer Berg also has options: Kollwitzplatz (Thu 12:00-19:00 and Sat 9:00-16:00) and in the courtyard of the Kulturbrauerei (Sun 12:00-18:00).
My favorite hotel-and-dining neighborhood is also an enjoyable place to window-shop. It’s a delight to simply wander colorful Kastanienallee between Eberswalder Strasse (with a U-Bahn station) and Weinbergspark.
The Kulturbrauerei brewery-turned-cultural center (described on here) has a smattering of little shops, including Green Living (with environmentally friendly housewares and home decor). The Kollwitzkiez (a few blocks east) is mostly residential, but you’ll also find some pleasant shops here. For local products, stop by Brandenburgerie, with a variety of mostly edible goods (meat, cheese, chocolate, juices, schnapps) made in the Brandenburg region that surrounds Berlin (closed Mon-Sun, Sredzkistrasse 36).
The otherwise nondescript street that connects the Hackescher Markt and Rosenthaler Platz areas (along the handy tram #M1 route) attracts those interested in Berlin’s fashion and design scene. Most shops along here are pop-up spaces, giving you a glimpse at what local designers are up to right now. A couple of permanent fixtures are worth checking out: Kauf dich Glücklich, a ramshackle Berlin café famous for its waffles (see here), but which has since moved into fashion (at #17, www.kaufdichgluecklich-shop.de); and Schee, with appealing handmade items, including prints and textiles (at #15, www.schee.net).
This delightfully restored old series of eight interlocking shopping courtyards sits in the heart of the Scheunenviertel. While not cheap, it’s a convenient and tempting place to window-shop for everything from locally made porcelain to artisanal local foods to fashion (shops typically open Mon-Sat from 10:00 or 11:00 until 19:00, closed Sun, Rosenthaler Strasse 40, www.hackesche-hoefe.com).
The delightful square called Gendarmenmarkt—a short detour south of Unter den Linden—has two very different chocolate shops that are fun to browse: one bourgeois, and the other proletarian. For locations see the map on here.
Fassbender & Rausch claims to be Europe’s biggest chocolate store. After 150 years of chocolate-making, this family-owned business proudly displays its sweet delights—250 different kinds—on a 55-foot-long buffet. Truffles are sold for about €1 each; it’s fun to compose a fancy little eight-piece box of your own. Upstairs is an elegant café with fine views (Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00, Sun from 11:00, corner of Mohrenstrasse at Charlottenstrasse 60—look for green awnings directly behind German Cathedral, tel. 030/757-882-440).
If you’re a choco-populist, head to the opposite end of Gendarmenmarkt, near the French Cathedral, for the Volkswagen of candy. Rittersport Bunte Schokowelt is home to the flagship store of Rittersport, the famous chocolate company—“quadratisch, praktisch, gut” (“square, practical, good”). This is basically Germany’s answer to the M&M’s store (Mon-Wed 10:00-19:00, Thu-Sat until 20:00, Sun until 18:00, Französische Strasse 24, tel. 030/200-950-810).
Central Berlin: Unter den Linden is lined with some high-end shops, but for a wider selection, head a few blocks south. The French department store Galeries Lafayette has a large outpost here with several floors of high-end goods under a glass dome (top-quality basement food court; Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00, closed Sun, Französische Strasse 23).
Several blocks west is the massive, recently opened, state-of-the-art Mall of Berlin, with 270 shops surrounding a cavernous glass-covered passageway (Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00, closed Sun, Vossstrasse 35, www.mallofberlin.de). Nearby, Potsdamer Platz and Sony Center have additional shops.
City West: Several swanky shops line Kurfürstendamm, the area’s main boulevard. The trendy Bikinihaus shopping center faces Europaplatz on one side and the Berlin Zoo on the other. This “concept mall” has a mix of international chains, artisan boutiques, food stalls, a small Kaiser’s supermarket, and “pop-up boxes” highlighting Berlin vendors (plus a free glimpse of the zoo’s monkeys; Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00, closed Sun, Budapester Strasse 38, www.bikiniberlin.de).
City West’s most venerable shopping is a couple of blocks east (near the Wittenbergplatz U-Bahn), at KaDeWe—one of Europe’s fanciest department stores, in business since 1907 and a worthwhile sight in itself (for more, see here).
Choosing the right neighborhood in Berlin is as important as choosing the right hotel. I’ve focused my recommendations in safe, colorful areas convenient to sightseeing. Two of my top districts are in northern Berlin: Prenzlauer Berg, my favorite area to sleep, offers a local neighborhood vibe, easy transit connections, and an excellent selection of eateries; Scheunenviertel, also with good restaurants, is closer to the sights, but more impersonal than Prenzlauer Berg. Farther out, City West—the heart of the former West Berlin—is an upscale, residential neighborhood.
A few notes about hotels in Berlin:
Berlin charges a daily tourist tax (5 percent of the room rate). This may be included in the room price or may appear as an extra charge on your bill.
• Most hotels offer an optional breakfast buffet for about €10-15 per person, though it’s often not included in their quoted rates (you can choose whether to add breakfast when booking). Light eaters and budget travelers can opt out of the hotel breakfast and get coffee and a pastry at a neighborhood café for about half the cost.
• Air-conditioning is relatively rare (I’ve noted hotels that have it in all rooms). If it’s important to you, ask about it when you book.
• Many hotels offer bike rentals to guests (usually €8-12/day)—again, ask when you reserve.
For some travelers, short-term, Airbnb-type rentals can be a good alternative to hotels; search for places in my recommended hotel neighborhoods. Book any accommodations well in advance, especially if you’ll be traveling during peak season or if your trip coincides with a major holiday or festival, when Berlin can be packed and prices go up (see here). Rooms can be in especially short supply when big trade shows are in town (including Green Week in mid-January and the ITB travel show in mid-March).
I rank accommodations from $ budget to $$$$ splurge. To get the best deal, contact family-run hotels directly by phone or email. By going directly, the owner avoids a roughly 20 percent commission and may be able to offer you a discount. For information and tips on hotel rates and deals, making reservations, and finding a short-term rental, see here.
My favorite Berlin neighborhood to call home, Prenzlauer Berg offers easy transit connections to sightseeing; diverse eateries, coffee houses, and nightspots; and a welcoming personality that’s just the right mix of urban yet residential, local yet tourist-friendly. A onetime hipster mecca, this area is now gentrified and more sedate—yet it still retains a bit of its alternative edge (think of all that graffiti as just some people’s way of saying they care).
Most of my recommended hotels are between Kastanienallee and Prenzalauer Allee. The area’s transit hub is the Eberswalder Strasse U-Bahn station (U2 line). Trams also serve this neighborhood: The #M1 and #12 run up and down Kastanienallee, connecting to the Rosenthaler Platz U-Bahn (#M1 continues all the way to the Hackescher Markt S-Bahn station), while the #M10 heads west from Eberswalder Strasse along Bernauer Strasse to the Berlin Wall Memorial, and eventually to the Hauptbahnhof.
$$$ Hotel Oderberger has 70 modern rooms filling part of a Neo-Renaissance bathhouse complex (originally opened in 1902, renovated and reopened in 2016). From the reception, you can peek into the elegant old swimming pool area. It’s a fine choice, with its understated elegance, historic aura, and good location, tucked away on a quiet side street near the most happening stretch of Kastanienallee (elevator, guest discount for swimming pool, Oderberger Strasse 57, tel. 030/780-089-760, www.hotel-oderberger.de, info@hotel-oderberger.berlin).
$$$ Linnen rents five rooms above a cozy and characteristic café, along a busy street between the Eberswalder Strasse U-Bahn station and Mauerpark. Linnen stays true to its motto, “more home, less hotel”—the vibe is casual, and the spacious, stylishly decorated rooms feel homey. This place pleases well-heeled hipsters (breakfast extra at downstairs café, Eberswalder Strasse 35, tel. 030/4737-2440, www.linnenberlin.com, booking@linnenberlin.com).
$$$ Myer’s Hotel rents 50 comfortable rooms that are decorated with lots of bold colors and gold accents. Located on a tranquil, tree-lined street, and overlooking a sleepy courtyard, Myer’s is closer to charming Kollwitzplatz than to the Kastanienallee action. Staying at this peaceful hub, you’ll find it hard to believe you’re in the heart of a capital city. The gorgeous public spaces, including an art-filled patio and garden, host frequent cultural events (air-con, elevator, sauna, Metzer Strasse 26—midway between U2: Senefelderplatz and #M2 tram: Prenzlauer Allee/Metzer Strasse, #M2 goes to/from Alexanderplatz, tel. 030/440-140, www.myershotel.de, info@myershotel.de).
$$$ Hotel Kastanienhof feels less urban-classy and more like a traditional small-town German hotel. It’s wonderfully located on the Kastanienallee #M1 tram line, with easy access to the Prenzlauer Berg bustle (but since trams run all night, ask for a room in the back). Its 44 rooms come with helpful service (breakfast extra, some top-floor rooms with air-con and/or balcony, elevator, wheelchair-accessible room, pay parking, 20 yards from #M1: Zionskirchplatz at Kastanienallee 65, tel. 030/443-050, www.kastanienhof.berlin, info@kastanienhof.berlin). The hotel’s recommended Ausspanne restaurant serves excellent German dishes with a modern twist (see listing on here).
$$$ Hotel Jurine (zhoo-REEN—the family name) is a pleasant 53-room business-style hotel with a friendly staff that aims to please. Though a bit old-school and slightly overpriced, it’s comfy and well-located. In good weather, you can enjoy the (optional) breakfast buffet on the peaceful backyard patio and garden (breakfast extra, RS%, elevator, pay parking—reserve ahead, Schwedter Strasse 15, #M1: Zionskirchplatz, or 10-minute walk to U2: Senefelderplatz, tel. 030/443-2990, www.hotel-jurine.de, mail@hotel-jurine.de).
¢ Hostels: A convenient branch of the hostel/budget hotel Meininger is at Senefelderplatz; for details, see here. EastSeven Hostel rents 60 of the best cheap beds in Prenzlauer Berg. Modern and conscientiously run, it offers all the hostel services, and more: inviting lounge, guest kitchen, backyard terrace, and bike rental. Children are welcome. Easygoing people of any age are comfortable here (private rooms available, no curfew, 100 yards from U2: Senefelderplatz at Schwedter Strasse 7, tel. 030/9362-2240, www.eastseven.de, info@eastseven.de).
Scheunenviertel (“Barn Quarter”), south of Prenzlauer Berg, makes for a fine home base thanks to its good location (close to public transportation and easy walking distance to the center) and traveler-friendly offerings, including cozy restaurants, independent shops, delightful Monbijou Park, and a few interesting sights (especially those relating to the former Jewish quarter that once stood here). It’s closer to the historic core than Prenzlauer Berg, but feels less residential, and the hotels here are bigger and less personable.
Rosenthaler Platz is halfway between Hackescher Markt and the heart of the Prenzlauer Berg scene (on Kastanienallee). Though bustling and congested, it makes a good base for getting around the city because of its U-Bahn stop (U8: Rosenthaler Platz) and tram service (#M1 heads north to Kastanienallee/Eberswalder Strasse and south to the Hackescher Markt S-Bahn hub; #M8 connects to the Hauptbahnhof).
$$ The Circus Hotel is fun, entirely comfortable, and a great value. The achingly hip lobby has a café serving delicious (optional) breakfasts, and the 60 rooms are straightforward and colorful. Run by the same folks who manage the popular Circus Hostel (listed later), it’s service-oriented, with a very “green” attitude and special events for guests. As the hotel overlooks a busy intersection, ask for a quieter back room (breakfast extra, elevator, Rosenthaler Strasse 1, tel. 030/2000-3939, www.circus-berlin.de, info@circus-berlin.de). The Circus also offers spacious, modern $$$ apartments within the hotel and two blocks away at Choriner Strasse 84.
$$ Amano Hotel, while big (163 rooms) and impersonal, is well-priced for what you get: chic contemporary design and all the little amenities you don’t need, but appreciate nonetheless (breakfast extra, air-con, elevator, pay parking, Auguststrasse 43, tel. 030/809-4150, www.amanogroup.de, amano@amanogroup.de).
$ EasyHotel Berlin Hackescher Markt is part of an unapologetically cheap, Europe-wide chain where you pay for exactly what you use—nothing more, nothing less. You are charged a low base rate, then pay à la carte for each service you add (Wi-Fi, TV, etc.). The 125 orange-and-gray rooms are very small, basic, and feel popped out of a plastic mold (no breakfast, elevator, after booking online call to request a quieter back room, Rosenthaler Strasse 69, tel. 030/4000-6550, www.easyhotel-berlin.de, enquiries@berlinhm.easyhotel.com).
¢ The Circus Hostel is a brightly colored, well-run place with 250 beds, plenty of social networking, and a trendy lounge and microbrewery. It has typical hostel dorms as well as some hotel-like private rooms; for a few big steps up in comfort, consider the Circus Hotel, listed earlier (no curfew, elevator, Weinbergsweg 1A, U8: Rosenthaler Platz, tel. 030/2000-3939, www.circus-berlin.de, info@circus-berlin.de).
Lively Hackescher Markt, just north of the river and the gateway to Scheunenviertel, is brimming with people, eateries, and on some days, an open-air market. It’s also home to an S-Bahn station and is connected to Prenzlauer Berg by tram #M1.
Of the following listings, the first two (Adina and Hotel Alexander Plaza) are in a characterless glass-and-concrete zone just south of Hackescher Markt. The others face each other across the tracks of a tram depot (ask for a quieter room). These hotels are all bigger than they are charming.
$$$ Adina Apartment Hotel Berlin Hackescher Markt has 134 studio apartments with kitchenettes, though a breakfast option is available for an extra fee (air-con, elevator, pay parking, An der Spandauer Brücke 11, tel. 030/209-6980, www.tfehotels.com, berlinhm@adina.eu).
$$$ Hotel Alexander Plaza offers 94 brightly appointed, business-style rooms (breakfast extra, elevator, pay parking, Rosenstrasse 1, tel. 030/240-010, www.hotel-alexander-plaza.de, frontoffice@hotel-alexander-plaza.de).
$$$ Monbijou Hotel’s 101 rooms are small, but they make up for it with pleasing public spaces, a postcard-worthy rooftop terrace (with views of the cathedral and TV Tower), and a flair for design—from reclaimed wood and antique furnishings to plenty of natural light (family rooms, no breakfast, elevator, pay parking, Monbijouplatz 1, tel. 030/6162-0300, www.monbijouhotel.com, info@monbijouhotel.com).
$$ Hotel Hackescher Markt, with 32 rooms, offers an inviting lounge and modern decor without being predictable or pretentious (breakfast extra, family rooms, air-con, elevator, Grosse Präsidentenstrasse 8, tel. 030/280 030, www.hotel-hackescher-markt.com, reservierung@hotel-hackescher-markt.com).
$$ Hotel Zoe by Amano is a trendy and slightly more upscale branch of the Amano Hotel group, listed earlier (breakfast extra, air-con, elevator, Grosse Präsidentenstrasse 6, tel. 030/2130-0150, www.amanogroup.de, zoe@amanogroup.de).
These good-value hotels are on or close to fun, art gallery-lined Auguststrasse, in an area that feels more characteristic than my other Scheunenviertel listings. They’re located between the Oranienburger Strasse S-Bahn and Oranienburger Tor U-Bahn (U6), and tram #M1 is nearby.
$$ Hotel Augustinenhof has 66 spacious rooms, nice woody floors, and comfortable beds. Rooms in front overlook the courtyard of the old Imperial Post Office, rooms in back are a bit quieter, and some rooms have older, thin windows (breakfast extra, elevator, Auguststrasse 82, tel. 030/3088-6710, www.hotel-augustinenhof.de, augustinenhof@albrechtshof-hotels.de).
$$ Calma Berlin Mitte, part of a small local chain, is a good budget bet. Its 46 straightforward but comfortable, modern rooms are tucked away on a tranquil courtyard, just steps from the lively Oranienburger Strasse scene (breakfast extra, elevator, Linienstrasse 139, tel. 030/9153-9333, www.lindemannhotels.de, calma@lindemannhotels.de).
Straddling the Spree River, this area—between the transit stations Oranienburger Tor (U6) and Friedrichstrasse (U6 and several S-Bahn lines)—feels big and sterile, with little personality. But hotels here have plenty of beds and are easy walking distance to both Unter den Linden and Scheunenviertel. The first two hotels (NH Collection and Eurostars) are south of the river and closer to Friedrichstrasse Station; both are plush, high-end, and belong to international Spanish chains. The last two listings (Leonardo and Albrechtshof) are north of the river and a bit simpler, but still comfortable.
$$$ NH Collection Berlin Mitte Friedrichstrasse feels upscale and professional. Its 268 rooms come with sleek hardwood floors, high ceilings, and red accents (breakfast extra, air-con, elevator, gym, sauna, Friedrichstrasse 96, tel. 030/206-2660, www.nh-collection.com, nhcollectionberlinfriedrich@nh-hotels.com).
$$$ Hotel Eurostars Berlin is a classy hotel with 221 spacious, rich wood rooms towering over the everyday hustle and bustle. As it faces train tracks, ask for a quieter room—several face into the lobby atrium (breakfast extra, air-con, elevator, spa, Friedrichstrasse 99, tel. 030/701-7360, www.eurostarsberlin.com, info@eurostarsberlin.com).
$$$ Leonardo Hotel Berlin Mitte occupies a modern building set back on a little park overlooking the river. It features retro public spaces and a mazelike floor plan leading to 309 tight, tidy, stylish rooms (breakfast extra, air-con, elevator, spa, gym, limited pay parking, Bertolt-Brecht-Platz 4, tel. 030/374-405-000, www.leonardo-hotels.com, info.berlinmitte@leonardo-hotels.com).
$$ Hotel Albrechtshof is a bit scruffier than its sister hotel, the Augustinenhof (described earlier), but still a good choice. It has the most personality of the hotels in this area. The 98 rooms come with a similar design, friendly staff, peaceful courtyard, and weekly chapel services. Martin Luther King, Jr. once stayed here and attended one (breakfast extra, elevator, Albrechtstrasse 8, tel. 030/308-860, www.hotel-albrechtshof.de, albrechtshof@albrechtshof-hotel.de).
City West—the heart of the former West Berlin—is a pleasant, upscale, low-impact residential neighborhood. While most travelers prefer to sleep closer to the center, City West can be an ideal home base if you don’t mind a longer commute to sightseeing. The area retains an artsy aura, going back to the cabaret days of the 1920s, when it was the center of Berlin’s gay scene. Today, City West feels sedate and posh (if quite touristy along Ku’damm)—lacking the edginess of Prenzlauer Berg or the gritty urban feel of Scheunenviertel. Travelers sleeping in City West have several transit options: Bus #100 is slow but scenic while the S-Bahn zips much faster from Savignyplatz or Zoologischer Garten to the center.
$$$$ 25hours Hotel Bikini Berlin is your trendy hotel option overlooking Europaplatz in the busiest and buzziest part of City West. Filling a high rise adjacent to the Berlin Zoo and the Bikinihaus shopping mall, it has 149 plywood-and-concrete rooms and public spaces with an industrial-zoo ambience. This is where trendsetters sleep in City West (breakfast extra, air-con, elevator, Budapester Strasse 40, tel. 030/120-2210, www.25hours-hotels.com, bikini@25hours-hotels.com).
These listings huddle around the delightful, tree-lined Savignyplatz, which has a neighborhood charm and an abundance of simple, small, friendly, good-value places to sleep and eat. To get here, ride the S-Bahn directly to Savignyplatz—or get off at Zoologischer Garten (with more connections) and walk about 10 minutes.
$$ Hecker’s Hotel is an excellent value, with 69 big, fresh, well-maintained rooms and all the Euro-comforts. Herr Kiesel’s “superior” rooms have air-conditioning and more-modern furnishings—and cost a bit more—than his “comfort” rooms (a few rooms with kitchenettes, free breakfast for Rick Steves readers, elevator, pay parking, between Savignyplatz and Ku’damm at Grolmanstrasse 35, tel. 030/88900, www.heckers-hotel.com, info@heckers-hotel.com).
$$ Hommage à Magritte is a spiffy, tidy B&B in a classic old apartment building on a quiet street between Ku’damm and Savignyplatz. Its 18 rooms come with an artistic touch, inspired by its namesake, the Belgian Surrealist painter René Magritte (Grolmanstrasse 32, tel. 030/8956-7087, www.hommage-a-magritte.com, info@hommage-a-magritte.com).
$$ Hotel-Pension Funk, the former home of a 1920s silent-movie star, is a delightfully quirky, only-in-Berlin time warp. Kind manager Herr Michael Pfundt and his right-hand man, Ding, offer 15 elegant old rooms with rich Art Nouveau furnishings and hardly any modern trappings. Most guests adore it; some are put off by its old-fashioned feel. Figure out which you’ll be before you book (cheaper rooms with shared bath, cash preferred, no TVs, a long block south of Ku’damm at Fasanenstrasse 69, tel. 030/882-7193, www.hotel-pensionfunk.de, berlin@hotel-pensionfunk.de).
$ Pension Peters, run by a German-Swedish couple, is sunny and central, with a cheery breakfast room and a super-friendly staff who go out of their way to help guests. With sleek Scandinavian decor and 33 rooms, it’s a good choice. Some ground-floor rooms facing the back courtyard are a bit dark—and cheaper. If street noise bothers you, request a quiet room. Annika and Christoph (with help from his sister, Daisy, as well as Uwe and others) have been welcoming my readers for decades (breakfast extra, RS%, cash preferred, family rooms, 10 yards off Savignyplatz at Kantstrasse 146, tel. 030/312-2278, www.pension-peters-berlin.de, info@pension-peters-berlin.de).
Berlin’s historic core is handy to sightseeing, but—frankly—pretty dull. Locals who don’t work in this area rarely venture here, making it sleepy at night. But these large, business-oriented hotels are worth considering if you’re looking to sleep in the very center of town and can score a deal. Breakfasts here are expensive add-ons. For locations, see the map on here.
$$$$ Hotel de Rome, holding court on Frederick the Great’s showpiece Bebelplatz and facing Unter den Linden, is the Berlin splurge, with 108 rooms and all the luxurious little extras. If money is no object, this is a tempting choice for your Berlin address (breakfast extra, air-con, elevator, Behrenstrasse 37, tel. 030/460-6090, www.roccofortehotels.com, info.derome@roccofortehotels.com).
$$ Hotel Gendarm Nouveau, just steps off Gendarmenmarkt, has a modern, impersonal lobby and 47 Goldilocks rooms with just enough color and comfort. While the area lacks energy after dark, it’s lively at lunchtime, classy, and central (breakfast extra, air-con on upper floors, elevator, Charlottenstrasse 61, U2: Stadtmitte, tel. 030/206-0660, www.hotel-gendarm-berlin.de, info@hotel-gendarm-berlin.de).
$$ NH Berlin Mitte Leipziger Strasse is a midrange chain hotel on a busy street a short walk from Gendarmenmarkt, with nearly 400 fresh, interchangeable rooms at affordable rates (breakfast extra, air-con, elevator, Leipziger Strasse 106, U2: Stadtmitte, tel. 030/203-760, www.nh-hotels.com, mailto:nhberlinmitte@nh-hotels.com).
$$ Michelberger Hotel, right across from the Warschauer Strasse S-Bahn station (the gateway to gritty, quickly gentrifying Friedrichshain), is so artsy and self-consciously hip that it’d all be just too much...if it weren’t for its helpful staff. Its 111 bright rooms are reasonably priced, and its common spaces—a bar/lounge and a breezy courtyard restaurant—are welcoming (breakfast extra, family rooms, elevator, sauna in courtyard; from atop Warschauer Strasse S-Bahn station, turn left to cross the bridge—it’s across from the U-Bahn station and #M10 tram stop at Warschauer Strasse 39; tel. 030/2977-8590, www.michelbergerhotel.com, reservations@michelbergerhotel.com).
$ Motel One has multiple locations across Berlin; all have the same aqua-and-brown decor and posh-feeling but small rooms. The four most convenient locations are between Hackescher Markt and Alexanderplatz (Dircksenstrasse 36—see map on here, tel. 030/2005-4080, berlin-hackeschermarkt@motel-one.com); near the Zoologischer Garten station (Kantstrasse 10—see map on here, tel. 030/3151-7360, berlin-kudamm@motel-one.com); just behind the Hauptbahnhof (Invalidenstrasse 54, tel. 030/3641-0050, berlin-hauptbahnhof@motel-one.com); and a few blocks east of Gendarmenmarkt (Leipziger Strasse 50, U2: Spittelmarkt, tel. 030/2014-3630, berlin-spittelmarkt@motel-one.com). For the last two locations, see the map on here.
Meininger is a Europe-wide budget-hotel chain with several locations in Berlin. With both ¢ cheap dorm beds and $$ comfortable, hotelesque, private rooms, Meininger is a solid budget option, even for nonhostelers. They have three well-located branches: in Prenzlauer Berg (“Alexanderplatz” branch, actually at Schönhauser Allee 19 on Senefelderplatz—see map on here); in Scheunenviertel (Mitte “Humboldthaus” branch, next to the recommended Aufsturz pub at Oranienburger Strasse 67—see map on here); and near the Hauptbahnhof at Ella-Trebe-Strasse 9—see map on here (all locations have elevator and 24-hour reception, pay parking at some, tel. 030/666-36100, www.meininger-hostels.com, welcome@meininger-hostels.com).
Berlin has a world of ever-changing restaurants from which to choose. While the city abounds with traditional German eateries, Berliners consider this cuisine old-school; when they go out to eat, they’re not usually looking for traditional local fare. Nouveau German is California cuisine with scant memories of wurst, kraut, and pumpernickel.
Berlin is also a place to venture beyond German cuisine. As one of Europe’s primary melting pots, Berlin has a wide range of restaurants from around the world. You’ll find sushi, Turkish, Italian, Peruvian, Cuban, Thai, Georgian, Vietnamese, Indian, Argentinian—usually done quite well.
I rank restaurants from $ budget to $$$$ splurge. For general advice on eating in Germany, including details on dining and tipping in restaurants, where to find budget meals, and descriptions of popular German dishes and beverages, see here.
Choosing Restaurants: Berlin has far more quality restaurants than could fit in any guidebook. It’s hard to go wrong by just browsing a neighborhood until you find something that strikes your fancy.
Bigger restaurants may have both smoking and nonsmoking areas. If you’re concerned, ask before being seated.
Berlin Specialties: Don’t be too determined to eat “Berlin-style.” The city is best known for its street food—Currywurst and kebabs (see the “Berliner Street Fare” sidebar).
But if you do eat German food in Berlin, popular dishes include Buletten and Königsberger Klopse (both meatball dishes), plus other meaty plates, such as Schnitzel Holstein (veal cutlet with egg), Eisbein (boiled ham hock), Leber Berliner Art (veal liver), Kassler (or Kasseler; smoked pork), and Mett (or Hackepeter; minced pork). Also popular are Aal grün (boiled eel), Rollmops (pickled herring), and Senfeier (hard-boiled eggs with potatoes). As for sweets, Berliner Pfannkuchen is the local jelly doughnut, and Berliner Luft is a popular dessert. These dishes are described in more detail in the Practicalities chapter (under “Traditional German Fare,” starting on here).
(See “Historic Core Hotels & Restaurants” map, here.)
While this government/commercial area is hardly a hotspot for eateries, I’ve listed a few places handy for your sightseeing, all a short walk from Unter den Linden.
(See “Historic Core Hotels & Restaurants” map, here.)
Georgenstrasse, a block behind the Pergamon Museum and under the S-Bahn tracks, is lined with fun places (bars, sit-down eateries, frozen yogurt, designer coffee, etc.) filling the arcade of the train trestle. This strip is close to the sightseeing action, but largely undiscovered by tourists—its main clientele consists of students (and professors) from nearby Humboldt University.
$$ Deponie No. 3 is a reliable, rustic, but sophisticated Berlin Kneipe (pub). Garden seating in the back is nice if you don’t mind the noise of the S-Bahn passing directly above you. The bar interior is a cozy, wooden wonderland with several inviting spaces. They serve basic salads, traditional Berlin dishes, and hearty daily specials (daily 10:00-24:00, S-Bahn arch #187 at Georgenstrasse 5, tel. 030/2016-5740).
$$ Die Zwölf Apostel (“The Twelve Apostles”) serves up Italian dishes in a vast, romantic, dimly lit interior under frescoed arches (daily 11:00-23:00, S-Bahn arch #177 at Georgenstrasse 2, tel. 030/201-0222).
Sausage stands are everywhere—including the reigning local favorites, Konnopke’s Imbiss (see here) and Curry 36 (see here and here). You may even see portable human hot-dog stands—two companies, Grillrunner and Grillwalker, outfit their cooks in clever harnesses that let them grill and sell hot dogs from under an umbrella.
Most sausage stands specialize in Currywurst, created in Berlin after World War II, when a fast-food cook got her hands on some curry and Worcestershire sauce from British troops stationed here. It’s basically a grilled pork sausage smothered with curry sauce. Currywurst comes either mit Darm (with casing) or ohne Darm (without casing). If the casing is left on to grill, it gives the sausage a smokier flavor. (Berliner Art—“Berlin-style”—means that the sausage is boiled ohne Darm, then grilled.) Either way, the grilled sausage is then chopped into small pieces or cut in half (East Berlin style) and topped with sauce. While some places simply use ketchup and sprinkle on some curry powder, real Currywurst joints use a proper Currysauce: tomato paste, Worcestershire sauce, and curry. With your wurst comes either a toothpick or small wooden fork; you’ll usually get a plate of fries as well, but rarely a roll.
The other big Berlin street food is the kebab—either döner kebab (Turkish-style skewered meat slow-roasted and served in pita bread) or the recently trendy, healthier, vegetarian alternative, Gemüse kebab (with lots of veggies, and sometimes falafel). Other variations include the döner teller (on a plate instead of in bread) and döner dürüm (in a thin flatbread wrap, also called dürüm kebab or yufka). Just as Americans drop by a taco truck for a quick bite, Germans find a kebab stand.
(See “Historic Core Hotels & Restaurants” map, here.)
$$ Brauhaus Lemke is a big, modern, lively beer hall that makes its own brews and offers a menu of Berliner specialties and Bavarian dishes. They have decent salads and serve a six-beer sampler board (daily 12:00-24:00, across from the TV Tower and tucked a bit back from the street at Karl-Liebknecht-Strasse 13, tel. 030/3087-8989).
(See “Historic Core Hotels & Restaurants” map, here.)
A short walk from Museum Island and Karl-Liebknecht-Strasse, Berlin’s rebuilt “old town” (the Nikolai Quarter) is pretty soulless by day but a popular restaurant zone at night.
$$ Brauhaus Georgbräu is a thriving beer hall serving homemade suds on a picturesque courtyard overlooking the Spree River. Eat in the lively and woody but mod-feeling, hops-infused interior, or outdoors with fun riverside seating—thriving with German tourists. It’s a good place to try one of the few typical Berlin dishes: Eisbein (boiled ham hock) with sauerkraut and mashed peas with bacon. The statue of St. George once stood in the courtyard of Berlin’s old castle—until the Nazis deemed it too decadent and not “German” enough, and removed it (daily 12:00-24:00, 2 blocks south of Berlin Cathedral and across the river at Spreeufer 4, tel. 030/242-4244).
(See “Historic Core Hotels & Restaurants” map, here.)
South of Unter den Linden, Gendarmenmarkt, with its twin churches, is a delightful place for an al fresco meal. Here you’ll find several business-lunch-type places that are handy but pricey (given the high-rent location). In addition to these options, you can also browse the eateries along Charlottenstrasse.
$$$ Lutter & Wegner Restaurant is a Berlin institution respected for its Austrian cuisine (Schnitzel and Sauerbraten). Popular with businesspeople, it’s dressy, with fun sidewalk seating or a dark and elegant interior. Lunch specials are an affordable way to sample their cooking (daily 11:00-24:00, Charlottenstrasse 56, tel. 030/202-9540, www.l-w-berlin.de).
The $ Dom Curry Currywurst stand, behind the German Cathedral, works for a quick bite out on the square (daily 11:00-18:00, closed in winter, operated by the nearby Hilton).
$$ Galeries Lafayette Food Circus is a French festival of fun eateries in the basement of the landmark department store—ideal for a quality lunch. You’ll find a variety of prices and food, including sandwiches, savory crêpes, quiches, sushi bar, oyster bar, les macarons, and so on (Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00, closed Sun, Friedrichstrasse 76, U-Bahn: Französische Strasse, tel. 030/209-480).
Prenzlauer Berg is overstuffed with excellent restaurants, serving up every cuisine imaginable. Even if you’re not staying in this area, it’s worth venturing here for dinner. Before choosing a restaurant, I’d spend at least a half-hour strolling and browsing through this bohemian wonderland of creative eateries. Or consider one of my recommendations (for locations, see the map on here).
(See “Prenzlauer Berg Hotels & Restaurants” map, here.)
The epicenter of this neighborhood is Kastanienallee (between the Eberswalder Strasse U-Bahn station and Zionskirche), and surrounding streets. It’s a youthful and trendy place to eat and drink. I’ve organized my recommendations in three categories: German cuisine (both traditional and modern), international options, and cafés.
Prater Garten, Berlin’s oldest beer garden, has been in business since 1837—back when Prenzlauer Berg was a forested hill. The rustic indoor $$ restaurant serves well-executed German classics and good salads (table service). But for most, the big draw is the mellow, shaded, super-cheap $ beer garden, with a family-friendly outdoor area, including a playground (order at the counter). Both sections proudly pour Prater’s own microbrew (restaurant open Mon-Sat 18:00-24:00, Sun from 12:00; beer garden open daily in good weather 12:00-24:00, closed in winter; cash only, Kastanienallee 7, tel. 030/448-5688).
$$ Zum Schusterjungen (“The Cobbler’s Apprentice”) is a classic, old-school, German-with-attitude eatery that retains its circa-1986 DDR decor. Famous for its filling meals (including various types of schnitzel and Berlin specialties such as pork knuckle), it’s a no-frills place with quality ingredients and a strong local following. It serves the needs of those Berliners lamenting the disappearance of solid, traditional German cooking amid the flood of ethnic eateries (small 40-seat dining hall plus outdoor tables, daily 12:00-24:00, corner of Lychener Strasse and Danziger Strasse 9, tel. 030/442-7654).
$ Konnopke’s Imbiss, a super-cheap German-style sausage stand underneath the U2 train tracks, has been a Berlin institution since 1930—it was family-owned even during DDR times. Loyal Berliners say Konnopke’s cooks up some of the city’s best Currywurst; they also serve a wide variety of other wurst specialties (Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00, Sat from 11:30, closed Sun; Schönhauser Allee 44A—underneath elevated train tracks where Kastanienallee dead-ends, tel. 030/442-7765).
$$ Ausspanne, right along Kastanienallee, looks like a traditional, uninspired hotel restaurant. But the menu boldly elevates German classics with surprising flourishes—such as a puff of habanero foam with duck breast and red cabbage. It’s an interesting and reasonably priced take on modern German cooking (Tue-Sun 18:00-22:00, closed Mon, in recommended Hotel Kastanienhof at Kastanienallee 65, tel. 030/4430-5199).
$$$ Der Hahn Ist Tot! (“The Chicken Is Dead!”) has whimsical style and cozy outdoor tables facing the Zionskirche, on a pleasant Prenzlauer Berg square. They serve only four-course, fixed-price dinners. Prices are decent, and the cuisine is a thoughtful combination of rustic German and French dishes. The name refers to a popular French children’s song. It’s as tiny as it is popular—book ahead (Tue-Sun 18:30-24:00, closed Mon, Zionskirchstrasse 40, tel. 030/6570-6756, www.der-hahn-ist-tot.de).
$$$ Altberliner (“Old Berliner”) serves hearty but refined traditional Berlin cooking in an uncluttered, upscale-bistro ambience or outside, where you’re immersed in modern Berlin. Claiming to be the oldest bar in the city, they brought the original paneling along when they relocated here from the original location in Mitte (daily 12:00-23:00, Fürstenberger Strasse 1—near the Zionskirche, facing the park at Arkonaplatz, tel. 030/449-5151, www.altberliner-restaurant.de). Note: Several Berlin eateries call themselves “Altberliner,” but this is the original.
$$ Restaurant Die Schule is a modern, no-frills eatery where you can sample traditional German dishes tapas-style. Assemble a collection of cheap little plates of old-fashioned German food you might not try otherwise. They have several varieties of Flammkuchen (German pizza—a flatbread dish from the French borderlands). The nondescript interior is perfectly fine, but I prefer their outdoor tables—along the most colorful stretch of Kastanienallee (daily 11:00-22:00, Kastanienallee 82, tel. 030/780-089-550).
$$$ Les Valseuses is a hole-in-the-wall French bistro. Everything is simple and unpretentious, from the subway tile-clad exterior to the cozy, stripped-down interior to the short menu. Reserve ahead (daily 18:30-23:00, Eberswalder Strasse 28, tel. 030/7552-2032).
$$$ Osmans Töchter (“Ottoman Daughters”), run by sisters from Istanbul, is a fun mash-up of industrial-mod interior and modern Turkish cuisine. Although the service can be a bit full of itself, this popular restaurant is the most appealing place in Prenzlauer Berg to sample well-executed Turkish dishes. Reservations are smart (daily 17:30-24:00, Pappelallee 15, tel. 030/3266-3388, www.osmanstoechter.de).
$$ La Bodeguita del Medio is purely fun-loving Cuba—graffiti-caked walls, Che Guevara posters, animated staff, and an ambience that makes you want to dance. Come early to eat or late to drink. This restaurant has been here since 1994—and in fast-changing Prenzlauer Berg, that’s an eternity. The German-Cuban couple who run it take pride in their food, and the main dishes are big enough to split. You can even puff a Cuban cigar at the sidewalk tables (Tue-Sun 18:00-24:00, closed Mon, cash only, a block from U2: Eberswalder Strasse at Lychener Strasse 6, tel. 030/4050-0601).
$ Maria Bonita is an American-run Mexican bistro on a busy street offering some of the most authentic tacos in Berlin (daily 12:00-23:00, equidistant from Kollwitzplatz and Eberswalder Strasse U-Bahn at Danziger Strasse 33, tel. 030/2025-5338).
Browsing Kastanienallee: For other ethnic options, simply wander down Kastanienallee from the Eberswalder Strasse trestle. In just a few blocks, you’ll see Italian, Vietnamese, falafel, and Gemüse kebab, along with burgers, funky cafés, colorful Kneipe, and much more (plus the recommended Prater Garten, Die Schule, Ausspanne, and Café Morgenrot).
The following places are good for lingering over a drink and/or snack, ideally at an outdoor table where you can soak up the essence of Prenzlauer Berg (Engelberg also works well for a full meal). Most of these are on Oderberger Strasse, a wide street branching off from Kastanienallee (and seemingly every Berliner’s favorite street).
$$ Engelberg is a delightful little café serving authentic southern German fare imported from Bavaria, including sausages, spätzle, and streusel. Stop by here for breakfast, lunch, or coffee and cake in a relaxed, convivial atmosphere (Tue-Sun 10:00-18:00, closed Mon, Oderberger Strasse 21, tel. 030/4403-0637).
Kauf Dich Glücklich makes a great capper to a Prenzlauer Berg dinner. It serves an enticing array of sweet Belgian waffles and homemade ice cream in a candy-sprinkled, bohemian lounge on a great street (daily 11:00-24:00, indoor and outdoor seating—or get your dessert to go, Oderberger Strasse 44, tel. 030/4862-3292).
Bonanza Coffee is one of Berlin’s most respected artisanal coffeehouses (Mon-Fri 8:30-18:00, Sat-Sun from 10:00, Oderberger Strasse 35, tel. 030/208-488-020).
Café Morgenrot (“Red Dawn”) is a Prenzlauer Berg classic—a holdover from the neighborhood’s squatter days, and still run by an artists’ collective (closed Mon, vegan options, 85 Kastanienallee, tel. 030/4431-7844).
(See “Prenzlauer Berg Hotels & Restaurants” map, here.)
This small neighborhood, a few blocks east of Kastanienallee, is Prenzlauer Berg’s gentrified heart—quieter and more residential. Hip parents bring their hip kids to the leafy playground park at its center, Kollwitzplatz. The first listing (Gugelhof) is a pricier sit-down option right on the park; the others allow you to enjoy great food and this area on the cheap. Some of these (and many others in the neighborhood) offer take-away; grab something to go, and find a bench on this prime square.
$$$ Gugelhof, right on Kollwitzplatz, is an institution famous for its Alsatian German cuisine—French quality with German proportions. An enthusiastic local crowd fills its minimalist yet classy interior. In good weather, outdoor seating sprawls along its sidewalk. Their fixed-price meals are fun, and they welcome swapping (Mon-Fri 17:00-23:00, Sat-Sun from 12:00, reservations smart, where Knaackstrasse meets Kollwitzplatz, tel. 030/442-9229, www.gugelhof.de).
$ Imbiss 204 is a bit farther from the core of Prenzlauer Berg, but worth the trek for huge portions of traditional German dishes. Highlights include wiener schnitzel and Buletten. This place—popular with food-loving tourists who’ve done their homework—is tiny and crowded, and they don’t take reservations. Come at an off time or expect to wait outside. Be ready to share a table and make new friends (Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00, closed Sat-Sun, Prenzlauer Allee 204, tel. 030/2403-8543).
$ Chutnify offers a modern take on Indian street food. You can get a dosa (southern India’s version of a burrito, with various fillings), a thali (mixed platter), or a curry, either to eat in the cozy interior or to go (daily 12:00-23:00, Sredzkistrasse 43, tel. 030/4401-0795).
$ Zula is handy for cheap hummus wraps. The main draw here is the location: You can either sit at an outside table on one of Prenzlauer Berg’s finest streets, or enjoy your food at Kollwitzplatz, just down the street (daily 11:00-23:00, Husemannstrasse 10, tel. 030/4171-5100).
Pubs near Senefelderplatz: These two options—a few blocks south of Kollwitzplatz, handy to the Senefelderplatz U-Bahn—are good choices for beer with grub. The first is old-school, the other modern. $ Metzer Eck is a time-warp Kneipe with cozy charm and a family tradition dating to 1913. It serves cheap, basic, typical Berlin food with five beers on tap, including the Czech Budvar (Mon-Fri 16:00-24:00, Sat from 18:00, closed Sun, Metzer Strasse 33, on the corner with Strassburger Strasse, tel. 030/442-7656). $$ Leibhaftig is the modern yin to Metzer’s yang, serving their own brews and small plates of nouveau German cuisine. The cellar setting is tight but convivial (Mon-Sat 18:00-24:00, closed Sun, Metzer Strasse 30, tel. 030/5481-5039).
Of Berlin’s trendy dining zones, this is the closest to the main sightseeing core. Most of these places are a reasonable walk from Unter den Linden and within 10 minutes of the Hackescher Markt S-Bahn station. For locations, see the map on here.
(See “Scheunenviertel Hotels & Restaurants” map, here.)
The best place to find good eateries in Scheunenviertel is along or near Auguststrasse, Berlin’s “art gallery row” (close to the New Synagogue). Though the other areas I cover (Rosenthaler Platz and Hackescher Markt) are easier to reach, Auguststrasse is worth the short detour, as it’s attracted a fun cross-section of creative chefs that make it your best choice for a good meal.
Note: The nearby and much bigger Oranienburger Strasse is jammed with dime-a-dozen Indian, Cuban, and Singapore-themed restaurants serving tropical cocktails. While this street is trendy (and not a terrible choice for a practical meal), the places I recommend here are more interesting and more respected by locals.
$$ Mogg Deli, run by an expat Brooklynite, is a foodie favorite, serving a short but thoughtful menu of soups, salads, and sandwiches. They’re known for their home-cured pastrami, especially their monster, easily splittable Reuben (daily 11:00-22:00, inside the huge red-brick former Jewish girls school at Auguststrasse 11, tel. 030/330-060-770).
$$ Gipsy Restaurant fills the courtyard in front of Clärchens Ballhaus (a classic old Berlin ballroom) with twinkle lights, ramshackle furniture, and a bohemian-chic atmosphere—especially nice on a balmy evening. They serve good, reasonably priced German and Italian dishes, including brats, pizza, and homemade cakes (daily 12:30-23:00, Auguststrasse 24, tel. 030/282-9295). At lunch, climb the stairs to the delightful old $$ Spiegelsaal dining hall, with faded-elegant decor and flickering chandeliers that take you back to Berlin’s Weimar-era glory days (lunch only, Mon-Fri 11:00-15:00, closed Sat-Sun).
$$ Schwarzwaldstuben is a Black Forest-themed pub—which explains the antlers, cuckoo clocks, and painting of a thick forest on the wall. It’s friendly, with good service, food, and prices. The staff chooses the music (often rock or jazz), and the ambience is warm and welcoming. If they’re full, you can eat at the long bar or at one of the sidewalk tables (daily 12:00-23:00, Tucholskystrasse 48, tel. 030/2809-8084).
$$$ Cordobar is a cozy wine bar with a clean, trendy vibe and an appealing range of both German and international wines by the glass, paired with upscale small plates. Come here not for a filling meal, but to enjoy a posh local scene and try some interesting wines. It’s quite popular, so reserve ahead (Tue-Sat 19:00-24:00, closed Sun-Mon, Grosse Hamburger Strasse 32, tel. 030/2758-1215).
$$ Aufsturz is a lively pub that’s more for serious drinkers than serious eaters. It has a huge selection of beer and whisky and dishes up traditional Berliner pub grub to a young crowd (daily 12:00-24:00, Oranienburger Strasse 67, tel. 030/2804-7407).
Coffee: At The Barn, curt baristas serve up some of Berlin’s best gourmet coffee with an extra shot of pretense. Hipster coffee snobs will be satisfied (Mon-Fri 8:30-18:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-18:00, Auguststrasse 58). Another branch is near Senefelderplatz in Prenzlauer Berg (Schönhauser Allee 8).
Dessert: For your afternoon Kaffee und Küchen, stop at Princess Cheesecake, beloved by locals and selling several varieties of cheesecake (daily 10:00-19:00, Tucholskystrasse 37, tel. 030/2809-2760).
(See “Scheunenviertel Hotels & Restaurants” map, here.)
This busy neighborhood with some enticing options is roughly between Scheunenviertel and Prenzlauer Berg (near the U8: Rosenthaler Platz station, and on the tram #M1 line that runs between Kastanienallee and the Hackescher Markt S-Bahn station).
$$ Transit is a popular, tight, affordable eatery that cranks out Thai/Indonesian/pan-Asian small plates. Sit at one of the long shared tables and dig into the creative menu. Two people can make a filling meal out of three or four dishes. This place can be crowded, and they don’t take reservations, so come at an off time or expect to line up on the street (daily 11:00-24:00, cash only, Rosenthaler Strasse 68, tel. 030/2478-1645).
St. Oberholz Café, filling a fine old two-story space overlooking the busy Rosenthaler Platz intersection, epitomizes today’s Berlin: a hipster coffeeshop where start-up types sip lattes waiting for inspiration. Customers can rent tables to work at, and everyone seems to have the latest MacBook. The owner even wrote a how-to book on building a Berlin start-up (daily 8:00-24:00, Rosenthaler Strasse 72A).
Eclectic Eats on Weinbergsweg: If you’re sniffing around for a meal in this area, you can’t miss along the first block of Weinbergsweg, the narrower, tram track-lined lane that heads north to Prenzlauer Berg. In just one block, you’ll find cafés, bakeries, superfoods and organic juice, Gemüse kebab, döner kebab, an Italian deli, Mexican street food, Russian, Korean barbecue, a French bistro, Chinese dumplings, gelato, and more.
(See “Scheunenviertel Hotels & Restaurants” map, here.)
$$$ Hasir Turkish Restaurant is a popular, upscale, somewhat stuffy opportunity to splurge on Anatolian specialties amid candles and hardwood floors. While a bit past its prime and with hit-or-miss service, Hasir remains fairly respected, and enjoys a handy location in a courtyard next to the Hackesche Höfe shopping complex (large and splittable portions, daily 11:00-24:00, a block from the Hackescher Markt S-Bahn station at Oranienburger Strasse 4, tel. 030/2804-1616).
$$ Weihenstephaner Bavarian Restaurant serves upmarket traditional Bavarian food in an atmospheric cellar, on an inner courtyard, or on a busy people-watching terrace facing the delightful Hackescher Markt square; and, of course, it has excellent beer (daily 11:00-24:00, Neue Promenade 5 at Hackescher Markt, tel. 030/8471-0760).
To dig into Berlin’s up-and-coming food scene, head to Kreuzberg. This southern Berlin neighborhood—historically known for its large immigrant community and counterculture squatter-types—has taken off as the place for upwardly mobile young Berliners to eat out. I list a few options in some of the most appealing areas. As this is a very trendy destination, it’s smart to reserve ahead at most of these—especially on weekends—or avoid prime meal times. For more on Kreuzberg and its various Kieze (smaller sub-neighborhoods), see here.
Cozy Hangouts in Graefekiez: In addition to its fascinating Turkish Street Market (see here), the area just south of the Landwehr Canal is home to the delightful Graefekiez neighborhood (U8: Schönleinstrasse). On its main drag, Graefestrasse, you’ll find several tempting options, such as the inviting $ Kaffeebar, serving drinks, breakfast, and sandwiches (Mon-Fri 7:30-19:00, Sat-Sun 9:30-19:00, Graefestrasse 8). Closer to the river—near the bridge (Admiralbrücke)—locals flock to the Isabel ice-cream parlor (daily 10:00-18:00, Böckhstrasse 1) and the cheap-and-cheery $ Il Casolare pizzeria (daily 12:00-24:00, Grimmstrasse 30).
High-End Foodie Splurges on Paul-Lincke-Ufer: This strip—along the north bank of the Landwehr Canal (across from the Turkish market)—is home to several top-tier Berlin eateries (U8: Schönleinstrasse). Close to the bridge (Kottbusser Brücke) are $$$$ Horváth, a Michelin-star restaurant featuring elevated Austrian/international fusion fare (Wed-Sun 18:30-22:30, closed Mon-Tue, #44a, tel. 030/6128-9992, www.restaurant-horvath.de) and $$ Cocolo Ramen X-berg, an outpost of a high-end Japanese restaurant, serving slurpy noodle bowls (Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00, Sun 18:00-23:00, #39, tel. 030/9833-9073, www.kuchi.de). Farther east along the canal are $$$$ Lode & Stijn, featuring the eclectic high-end cooking (without pretense) of two talented Dutch-transplant chefs (Tue-Sat 18:00-22:30, closed Sun-Mon, Lausitzer Strasse 25, tel. 030/6521-4507, www.lode-stijn.de) and $$$$ Restaurant Volt, with upscale international dishes in a former power station (Tue-Sat 18:00-24:00, closed Sun-Mon, #21, tel. 030/338-402-320, www.restaurant-volt.de).
Kebabs and Fried Chicken near Oranienstrasse: At the scruffy Kottbusser Tor U-Bahn station (U1/U8), you’ll find several hole-in-the wall $ kebab stands (good choices include Konak Grill at Reichenberger Strasse 10 and Doyum Restaurant at Admiralstrasse 36). A block north of Kottbusser Tor runs the east-west thoroughfare Oranienstrasse. At the intersection with Adalbertstrasse is an outpost of $$$ Hasir, the high-end Turkish restaurant based at Hackescher Markt—see listing on here (daily 12:00-24:00, Adalbertstrasse 12). A couple of blocks north is the old-school local favorite $ Henne, which serves just one thing: fried chicken (Tue-Sun 18:00-24:00, closed Mon, Leuschnerdamm 25). East on Oranienstrasse—on Heinrichplatz—is the funky $ Angry Chicken, selling spicy Korean fried chicken (daily 12:00-22:00, Oranienstrasse 16).
Markthalle Neun: Kreuzberg’s best foodie destination is this beautifully renovated, 19th-century market hall, filled with local producers and fun food stalls (U1: Görlitzer Bahnhof). You’ll find gourmet butchers, wine shops, tapas, Berlin meatballs (Buletten), tofu sandwiches, fair trade spices, Turkish dishes, and an Aldi supermarket (most vendors open Mon-Sat 10:00-18:00, closed Sun, busiest on Tue and Fri-Sat; for location see map on here). It’s most worthwhile on “Street Food Thursdays,” when extra eateries open up from 17:00-22:00 (Eisenbahnstrasse 42, www.markthalleneun.de). Note: The Görlitzer Bahnhof area can feel seedy; on arrival, head straight for Lausitzer Platz, marked by the big church, then cut up to the top of the park and keep going 1.5 blocks to the market.
Wrangelkiez: This area is loaded with restaurants (U1: Schlesisches Tor). Beer pilgrims appreciate Hopfenreich, with 22 good microbrews on tap, but no food (daily 16:00-24:00, Sorauer Strasse 31, tel. 030/8806-1080). For a delicious and authentic Georgian meal, make your way to $$ Schwiliko—with owners (and ingredients) imported from the Republic of Georgia (daily 17:00-24:00, Schlesische Strasse 29, tel. 030/6162-3588, www.schwiliko-berlin.de). $$ Freischwimmer, serving a range of European dishes, is a great place to break on a sunny day thanks to its peaceful spot right on the river (daily 12:00-22:00, Vor dem Schlesischen Tor 2a, tel. 030/6107-4309).
Bergmannkiez: Another fine market hall is located in this upscale Kreuzberg neighborhood (U7: Gneisenaustrasse). $ Marheineke Markthalle is filled with appealing food counters serving Greek, Asian, Spanish tapas, French crêpes and galettes, grilled fish, pizza, Berliner specialties, and so on (Mon-Fri 8:00-20:00, Sat until 18:00, closed Sun, Marheinekeplatz 15; for location see map on here). Facing the same square is a pair of related restaurants that Berliners swear by for traditional Austrian cuisine: the aptly named $$$ Austria Restaurant, in business since 1858 (Tue-Sun 12:00-23:00, Mon from 18:00, cash only, Bergmannstrasse 30, tel. 030/694-4440), and their smaller, trendier-feeling annex, $$ Felix Austria (daily 10:00-24:00, just a half-block away toward the market hall at Bergmannstrasse 26, tel. 030/6167-5451). Nearby, the wine bar Not Only Riesling has an array of German vintages (Mon-Thu 12:00-22:00, Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00, closed Sun, Schleiermacherstrasse 25, tel. 030/6953-8866).
At the opposite (west) end of Bergmannkiez, the thriving $$ Golgatha Gaststätten beer garden sits at the base of Viktoriapark’s Kreuzberg monument (daily in good weather 9:00-18:00, Dudenstrasse 40, tel. 030/785-2453).
Famous Street Food at Mehringdamm: Two beloved-by-Berliners street food joints stand a few steps apart along the west side of Mehringdamm street, near the U-Bahn stop of the same name (U6/U7). $ Mustafa’s Gemüse Kebab is famous for its top-quality kebabs (both meat and vegetarian versions)...and its extremely long lines. Nearby, $ Curry 36 is a local favorite for Currywurst and generally has a shorter/faster-moving line (both places open long hours daily).
These eateries are of interest primarily to travelers sleeping here. For locations, see the map on here.
(See “City West Hotels & Restaurants” map, here.)
While not worth a special trip, many good restaurants are on or within 100 yards of Savignyplatz, near my recommended hotels. Savignyplatz is lined with attractive, relaxed, mostly Mediterranean-style places. Take a walk and survey the places I list here; continue your stroll along Bleibtreustrasse to discover many trendier, creative little eateries.
$$$ Restaurant Marjellchen is a trip to East Prussia, with big portions of hearty, delicious German/Polish cuisine. Dine in cozily cluttered elegance in one of two six-table rooms. While it doesn’t have to be expensive, plan to go the whole nine yards here, as this can be a great experience, with caring service. The menu is inviting, and the place family-run—all the recipes were brought to Berlin by the owner’s East Prussian mother after World War II. Reservations are smart (daily 17:00-22:30, Mommsenstrasse 9, tel. 030/883-2676, www.marjellchen-berlin.de).
$$ Dicke Wirtin (“Fat Landlady”) has a traditional old-Berlin Kneipe atmosphere, seven good beers on tap (including Andechs from Bavaria), and solid home cooking at reasonable prices—such as their famously cheap Gulaschsuppe. Their interior is fun and pubby, with soccer on the TV; their streetside tables are also inviting. Pickled eggs are on the bar—ask about how these can help you avoid a hangover (daily 11:00-23:00, dinner served from 18:00, just off Savignyplatz at Carmerstrasse 9, tel. 030/312-4952).
$$$$ Café im Literaturhaus sits above a rare-books shop on a delightfully tranquil garden courtyard, facing the Käthe Kollwitz Museum. It has the ambience of an Old World villa, with classy gold Art Deco accents—perfect for their evening poetry and other literary readings. While the full menu is quite pricey, you can enjoy the place far more affordably with a sandwich or coffee and cake (daily 9:30-24:00, smart to reserve for dinner if eating inside, Fasanenstrasse 23, tel. 030/882-5414).
$ Heno Heno is a very popular Japanese hole-in-the-wall, serving a variety of rice bowls, noodle dishes, and soups (but no sushi) in a long, sleek, minimalist space (Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00, closed Sun, Wielandstrasse 37, tel. 030/6630-7370).
$ Diener Tattersall is a neighborhood favorite Kneipe with a complicated history. The building started as a horse riding school, later became a casino, and was eventually bought by the German heavyweight champion Franz Diener, who attracted an eclectic clientele of boxers and artists to his Kneipe. Today it’s known for the affordable menu, specializing in homemade liver sausage (daily from 18:00, Grolmanstrasse 47, tel. 030/881-5329).
$$ Weyers offers modern German cuisine in a simple, elegant setting, with dining tables in the summer spilling out into the idyllic neighborhood park in front (daily 8:00-24:00, Pariser Strasse 16—facing Ludwigkirchplatz at intersection with Pfalzburger Strasse, tel. 030/881-9378).
On Bleibtreustrasse: On the stretch just south of the Savignyplatz S-Bahn tracks, Bleibtreustrasse is lined with an eclectic array of dining options—wander and take your pick: $$ Zillemarkt, an old-time beer hall with nice atmosphere and uninspired service (#48A); $$$ Die Zwölf Apostel, with Italian dishes and sophisticated ambience (#49); neighborhood budget favorite $ Ali Baba, with pizzas and outdoor seating (#45); plus $ Repke Spätzlerei (Spanish tapas, including buttery dumplings) and Nibs Cacao (churros and chocolate; both at #46).
(See “City West Hotels & Restaurants” map, here.)
In addition to a beer garden and department-store cafeteria, there’s plenty of fast food near the Zoologischer Garten station and on Ku’damm.
$ Curry 36—the locally beloved Currywurst vendor from Kreuzberg has a handy outpost just outside of the Zoologischer Garten station.
$$ Schleusenkrug beer garden is hidden in the park overlooking a canal between the Zoologischer Garten and Tiergarten stations. Choose from an ever-changing self-service menu of huge salads, pasta, and some German dishes (daily 10:00-24:00, food served 12:00-22:00, shorter hours and more basic menu off-season, cash only; from Zoologischer Garten station, it’s a 5-minute walk following the path into the park between the zoo and train tracks; tel. 030/313-9909).
KaDeWe Department Store: The top floor of this famous department store holds the $$ Winter Garden Buffet cafeteria, while its sixth-floor deli/food department is a picnicker’s nirvana. Its arterials are clogged with more than 1,000 kinds of sausage and 1,500 types of cheese (Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00, closed Sun, U-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz).
Berlin’s airport situation is in flux. The completion of Willy Brandt Airport has been delayed for years; in the meantime, two older airports—Tegel and Schönefeld—do their best to handle Berlin’s heavy flight load. When heading to the airport, be very clear on which one you’re flying from.
In addition to being well-served by Lufthansa and other big, traditional airlines, Berlin is also a destination for many budget airlines. These include EasyJet (www.easyjet.com), Germanwings/Eurowings (www.eurowings.com), Condor (with several long-haul routes, www.condor.com), WizzAir (with a handful of direct flights to southeastern Europe, www.wizzair.com), TUIfly (www.tuifly.com), and Ryanair (www.ryanair.com). For more on cheap flights, see here.
This state-of-the-art airport (airport code: BER), 11 miles south of central Berlin, has been under construction since 2006. Overdue and over budget, the airport may open sometime in late 2018 (but it’s unlikely).
When it does open, the airport is planned to connect to the city center by fast and frequent Airport Express trains. The airport station (Flughafen Berlin Brandenburg Bahnhof) sits directly under the terminal. A train (2/hour, 25 minutes, direction: Dessau or Nauen) will likely run to Alexanderplatz (for Prenzlauer Berg and Scheunenviertel hotels, 25 minutes), then continue to Zoologischer Garten (for City West hotels, 40 minutes). Additional trains will connect the airport to the main train station via Potsdamer Platz (2/hour, 30 minutes). Any train into the city center costs €3.40 (ABC zone ticket, buy at machine and validate before boarding). A taxi to the city center costs about €35.
Tegel (airport code: TXL), just four miles northwest of the center, serves as Berlin’s “main airport” until Willy Brandt finally opens. Smaller and older than you’d expect for the airport of a huge city, it’s limping along as well as it can. The easiest way to get downtown is by bus (follow the little bus icons to exit D).
To reach my Prenzlauer Berg or Scheunenviertel hotels, hop on bus #TXL, which stops at the Hauptbahnhof, then heads south down Friedrichstrasse before turning east on Unter den Linden, which it follows all the way to Alexanderplatz. Hop off just before Alexanderplatz—at the Spandauer Strasse/Marienkirche stop—then walk about five minutes north up Spandauer Strasse to Hackescher Markt. This is close to most Scheunenviertel hotels, and an easy ride on tram #M1 to most Prenzlauer Berg hotels.
To reach City West hotels, take bus #X9 directly to Zoologischer Garten (a.k.a. Zoo Station), or slower bus #109 by way of Ku’damm to Zoologischer Garten.
Any bus is covered by an AB zone transit ticket (€2.80 single ticket, buy from machine, validate before boarding). A taxi from Tegel Airport costs about €30 to Alexanderplatz or €20 to City West.
Most flights from the east and many discount airlines arrive at Schönefeld (airport code: SXF), 11 miles south of downtown and next to the under-construction Willy Brandt Airport. From the arrivals hall, it’s a three-minute walk to the train station, where you can catch a regional express train or S-Bahn into the city. The S9 line is especially handy for Prenzlauer Berg and Scheunenviertel hotels: From the Schönhauser Allee stop, tram #M1 runs south along Kastanienallee, then all the way to Hackescher Markt. You can also take Airport Express RE and RB trains directly to Ostbahnhof, Alexanderplatz, Friedrichstrasse (near some Scheunenviertel hotels), Hauptbahnhof, and Zoologischer Garten (handy for City West hotels; train runs 2/hour, direction: Nauen or Dessau). Either train is covered by an ABC transit ticket (€3.40, buy at machine and validate before boarding). A taxi to the city center costs about €40.
Virtually all long-distance trains pass through the Berlin Hauptbahnhof (“Berlin Hbf” on schedules)—a massive, state-of-the-art temple of railroad travel in the heart of the city. This mostly underground train station is where the national train system meets Berlin’s S-Bahn—unique for the way its major lines come in at right angles. Note that many arriving trains (especially regional ones) stop at multiple Berlin stations, one of which may be more convenient to your hotel than the Hauptbahnhof. Before you arrive, figure out which station is best for you.
Orientation: The gigantic station has five floors, but its open layout makes it easy to navigate...once you understand the signage. The main floor, at street level, is labeled “EG” (for Erdgeschoss), or level 0. Below that are UG1 (level -1) and UG2 (level -2), while above it are OG1 (level +1) and OG2 (level +2). Tracks 1-8 are on UG2, while tracks 11-16 and the S-Bahn are on OG2. Shops and services are on the three middle levels. Enter and exit the station on level EG: The Washingtonplatz entrance faces south (toward the Reichstag and downtown, with a taxi stand). The north entrance is marked Europaplatz.
Services: On the main floor (EG), you’ll find the TI (just inside the north/Europaplatz entrance) and the “Rail & Fresh WC” facility (public pay toilets, near the Burger King and food court). Up one level (OG1) are a 24-hour pharmacy and lockers (directly under track 14).
Train Information and Tickets: The Deutsche Bahn Reisezentrum information center is up one level (OG1), between tracks 12 and 13, (open long hours daily). For those staying in western Berlin, the info center at the Zoologischer Garten station is just as good—and much less crowded.
EurAide is an English-speaking information desk with answers to your questions about train travel around Europe. It’s located at counter 12 inside the Reisezentrum on the first upper level (OG1). It’s American-run, so communication is simple. This is an especially good place to make fast-train and couchette reservations (generally open Mon-Fri 11:10-18:50, until 20:00 May-July and Sept, check website for specific hours, closed Jan-Feb and Sat-Sun year-round; www.euraide.com).
Shopping: The Hauptbahnhof is home to 80 shops with long hours—some locals call the station a “shopping mall with trains” (many stores open Sun). The Kaiser’s supermarket (UG1, follow signs for tracks 1-2) is handy for assembling a picnic for your train ride.
Getting into Town: The Berlin Hauptbahnhof is not well-connected to the city’s U-Bahn (subway) system. Taxis and buses wait outside the station, but the S-Bahn is probably your best bet for connecting to most hotels. It’s simple: S-Bahn trains are on tracks 15 and 16 at the top of the station (level OG2). Trains on track 15 go east, stopping at Friedrichstrasse, Hackescher Markt, Alexanderplatz, and Ostbahnhof; trains on track 16 go west, toward Zoologischer Garten and Savignyplatz (best for City West hotels). Your train ticket to Berlin covers any connecting S-Bahn ride (but for the U-Bahn, trams, or buses, you’ll need an additional ticket).
To reach most hotels in northern Berlin’s Prenzlauer Berg neighborhood, it’s fastest to take any train on track 15 two stops to Hackescher Markt, exit to Spandauer Strasse, go left, and cross the tracks to the tram stop. Here you’ll catch tram #M1 north (direction: Schillerstrasse), which trundles north through Rosenthaler Platz and up Kastanienallee to Eberswalder Strasse. (For Rosenthaler Platz hotels, it’s even more direct to hop on tram #M8, which leaves from in front of the Hauptbahnhof’s Europaplatz entrance.)
For Scheunenviertel hotels, you’ll also take the S-Bahn from track 15. Some of these hotels are closer to the Friedrichstrasse station (first stop), while others are closer to Hackescher Markt (second stop).
To reach City West hotels, catch any train on track 16 to Savignyplatz, where you’re within a five-minute walk of most recommended hotels.
Bus #TXL to Tegel Airport leaves from in front of the Europaplatz exit.
From Berlin by Train to: Potsdam (2/hour, 30 minutes on RE1 train; or take S-Bahn from other points in Berlin, S7 direct, S1 with a change at Wannsee, 6/hour, 30-50 minutes—see here for details), Oranienburg and Sachsenhausen Memorial and Museum (hourly, 25 minutes; or take the S1 line from Friedrichstrasse or other stops in town, 2/hour, 50 minutes), Wittenberg (a.k.a. Lutherstadt Wittenberg, hourly on ICE, 40 minutes; also every 2 hours on slower regional train, 1.5 hours), Dresden (every 2 hours, more with a transfer in Leipzig, 2-3 hours), Leipzig (hourly direct, 1.5 hours), Erfurt (every 2 hours direct, 2 hours; more with transfer in Leipzig or Naumburg/Saale), Eisenach and Wartburg Castle (3/day direct, 2.5 hours; more with transfer in in Leipzig or Erfurt), Hamburg (1-2/hour direct, 2 hours), Frankfurt (hourly, 4.5 hours), Bacharach (hourly, 5-6.5 hours, 1-3 changes), Würzburg (hourly, 4 hours, change in Göttingen or Fulda), Rothenburg (2-3/hour, 5.5-7 hours, 2-3 changes), Nürnberg (direct train hourly, 5 hours, more with changes, 6 hours), Munich (1-2/hour, 6.5 hours, direct train hourly, otherwise change in Nürnberg or Hannover), Cologne (hourly, 4.5 hours, night train possible), Amsterdam (3/day direct, 6.5 hours; wise to reserve in advance), Budapest (1 direct train/day, others with one change, 11.5 hours, some go via Czech Republic and Slovakia; if your rail pass doesn’t cover these countries, save money on a longer route via Vienna), Copenhagen (2/day, 8 hours, reservation required, change in Hamburg, 1/day direct departs at 11:30), London (4/day, 10.5 hours, 2-4 changes—you’re better off flying cheaply, even if you have a rail pass), Paris (9/day, 8 hours), Zürich (1-2 hour, 9 hours, transfer in Hannover or Basel; 1 direct 11-hour night train), Prague (6/day direct, 4.5 hours, wise to reserve in advance), Warsaw (6/day direct, 6.5 hours; 3 more with 1-2 changes, reservations required on all Warsaw-bound trains), Kraków (1/day direct, 8 hours; more with transfer in Warsaw, 8.5 hours), Vienna (10/day, most with 1-2 changes, 1/night direct, 12 hours; some via Czech Republic, but trains with a change in Nürnberg, Munich, or Würzburg avoid that country—useful if it’s not covered by your rail pass).
Night trains run from Berlin to these cities: Cologne, Vienna, Basel, and Zürich. A Liegeplatz, a.k.a. couchette berth (€15-36), is a great deal; inquire at EurAide at the Hauptbahnhof for details. Beds generally cost the same whether you have a first- or second-class ticket or rail pass. Trains are often full, so reserve your couchette a few days in advance from any travel agency or major train station in Europe.
The city’s bus station, ZOB (Zentraler Omnibusbahnhof), is west of Zoologischer Garten (Berlin Zoo), in Charlottenburg (Masurenallee 4-6, U2: Kaiserdamm or S41/S42: Messe Nord). FlixBus, Berlin Linien, and Eurolines all operate from here to locations around Germany and Europe.
Many cruise lines advertise a stop in “Berlin,” but the ships actually put in at the Baltic seaside town of Warnemünde—a whopping 150 miles north of downtown Berlin. By train, by tour bus, or by Porsche on the autobahn, plan on at least six hours of travel time round-trip between Warnemünde and Berlin. The easiest option is to book a package excursion from your cruise line. You can also book a tour with a local Berlin-based operator such as Original Berlin Walks; see contact information on here). Otherwise, several train connections run each day from Warnemünde’s train station to Berlin (roughly every 2 hours, 3 hours, transfer in Rostock).
For more detail on visiting Berlin while on a cruise, pick up the Rick Steves Northern European Cruise Ports guidebook.