• PART ONE •
SMALL PLATES (MEZE)
Spicy Peanut Spread (Acikax with Peanuts and Tahini)
Hot Paprika and Walnut Spread (Muhammara/Acika)
Chickpea Balls with Tahini (Topik)
Red Lentil Balls with Cornichons
Fried Calamari Rings with Pistachio Sauce
Crispy Eggplant with Tulum Cheese and Pekmez
Blanched Chicory with Oil and Lemon
Circassian Chicken, the Easy Way
Fried Balls of Greens and Figs
Cornmeal Pancakes with Anchovies
Salmon Tartar Made in the Style of Uncooked Kofta (Çiğ Somon Köftesi)
CLOCKWISE FROM BOTTOM LEFT: OLIVE SALAD (THIS PAGE), GREEN ONIONS AND RADISHES (SEE THIS PAGE), MELON AND WHITE CHEESE (THIS PAGE), CRISPY EGGPLANT WITH TULUM CHEESE AND PEKMEZ (THIS PAGE), FRIED BALLS OF GREENS AND FIGS (THIS PAGE) WITH ROASTED RED PEPPERS (SEE THIS PAGE), WARM GRILLED TOMATO SALAD (MÜNCÜR, THIS PAGE), FRIED GREEN PEPPERS WITH GARLIC YOGURT (SEE THIS PAGE), BLANCHED ALMONDS (SEE THIS PAGE).
The meze table brings together a tempting array of little dishes to be enjoyed communally. These small plates can include everything from stuffed grape leaves or vegetables to shish kebabs and fried calamari, typically paired with pickles, yogurt sauce, dips, and little salads. A table spread with small plates is not only appetizing, but also extends the time spent around the table with family and friends. Accompanied by drinks, usually glasses of raki, the gathering becomes festive and joyful, and what is more, meze creates an atmosphere where people can talk more freely and communicate more intimately. That is why the tables at the meyhanes, or taverns where meze were served, were called çilingir sofrası—çilingir meaning “the locksmith table,” which implies that the table will unwind tongues, and people will talk more freely and casually. In truth, Turks value this type of conversation more than what is served, but certainly a tasty tidbit and a drink helps people relax.
The ritual of spreading the table with many different meze is more recent. In the old Ottoman days, tavern habits were more like the happy hour of the West today, where customers might enjoy a drink along with a handful of peanuts. However, after the Turkish republic was established, and men and women began socializing together as a way of life, the offerings on the meze tables became more elaborate at restaurants and homes alike. Eventually labor-intensive dishes like sigara börek (cigar-shaped fried pastries) and Zucchini Pancakes (Mücver, this page) would appear regularly—along with just about any type of meze the chef or hostess was capable of making. Even homey Turkish recipes, especially vegetable dishes like leeks, celery roots, and artichokes in olive oil, were added to the table around the mid-twentieth century.
One way or another, the variety keeps growing, as restaurants with an atmosphere conducive to drinking must continue to add new items to their meze platters.
It is interesting to note that meze and tapas, both of which are rooted in Arabic or Persian traditions, are becoming a popular way of eating, not only in their countries of origin but around the world. Perhaps everyone is yearning for a space in which they can truly relax and enjoy good company, with a drink and a few tasty tidbits to help set the stage.
All of the small dishes and even the fried pastry dishes in this book would be welcome additions on a meze table. You can serve just one or two meze while you enjoy a drink and conversation with a friend. Or, for a larger group, you can present a mix of hot and cold dishes, meat- and vegetable-based dishes, little salads and condiments—so many tasty tidbits that you will not even have to serve a main dish.
THIS PAIRING is a must for the raki table in Turkey. Besides the appeal of the rich variety of melons available in Turkey, the balance of sweet and salty makes this combination all that’s needed for many raki drinkers. In addition, the protein-rich cheese and potassium-rich melon contain vitamins and minerals that balance the alcohol: Nature knows what she is doing. Although the expression “less is more” is true for appetizers, I offer several suggestions for cheeses to pair with the melon at the end of this recipe.
3 slices (2 square inches/5 square cm) white Ezine or tulum cheese (see Note)
Serve the melon and cheese together on a single plate, or separately (the cheese can be cut into triangles instead of squares, if you prefer).
Note: Ezine peyniri (from the town of Ezine on the Aegean peninsula of Gallipoli) is a white cheese made from goat’s, sheep’s, and cow’s milk; it is pickled and then ripened in tin containers. Tulum peyniri is a crumbly powerful cheese that is very special. It is made in the area surrounding Erzincan (a city in eastern Turkey) and is traditionally matured in sheepskins. Today commercial versions come in synthetic casings, and unfortunately the taste is not anything near the traditionally cured one. Look for both of these cheeses at Middle Eastern groceries or online.
IF MELON AND CHEESE is the number one meze, this is the second. Its creamy texture and flavor justifies the name caviar (a term that was passed on to Western languages from its Turkish name, hayvar).
3 to 4 round, Italian-style eggplants (2½ pounds/1 kg, enough to make 3 cups mashed eggplant)
1 clove garlic, pounded with a mortar and pestle
Juice of ½ lemon (about 1 tablespoon)
¼ cup (60 ml) whole milk, or 2 to 3 tablespoons light cream
Grill the eggplants over a direct fire or a gas flame (this gives them a wonderful smoky taste) and peel while still warm (they will peel more easily this way). Wash the eggplants under running water to remove any remaining charred skin. Put in a colander for about 30 minutes to drain the bitter juices eggplants give off when grilled. Cut the eggplants into pieces and place in a food processor or chopper, or use a bowl and handmixer. Combine the garlic and a large pinch of salt, stir in the lemon juice, then whisk in the oil until emulsified. Add the dressing and then the milk and process until you have a creamy consistency. Taste and season with more salt if needed. Serve the day it is made; otherwise the garlic may become rancid.
Spicy Peanut Spread (Acika with Peanuts and Tahini)
THIS RECIPE is from eastern Turkey, where they love spicy food; in fact, its regional name, acika, means “heat.” It can be served with toasted bread slices or toasted yufka slices as a part of a meze platter. Its dominant spice, coriander, was used extensively in the Ottoman times, while purple basil is the common choice for this recipe. For an older version of acika, made with peppers, see this page.
Serves 6 to 8 as meze; double the recipe if this is the only meze
1 cup (120 g) shelled and peeled peanuts, first toasted in their shells
2 cloves garlic, crushed or pounded
2½ teaspoons dried coriander and hot pepper spice mix (see Note)
1½ teaspoons dried purple basil (optional)
In a food processor, combine the peanuts, garlic, spice mix, cumin, basil (if using), and sumac. Transfer the mixture to a bowl. Add the tahini with a splash of the oil and some water, up to ¾ cup (180 ml), to smooth out the texture. Add the remaining oil and the tahini, mixing in with a spoon. Serve at room temperature. It is best eaten the day it is made.
Note: To make the spice mix, grind 3 tablespoons coriander seeds with 3 or 4 dried hot peppers about 2 inches (5 cm) in length. If the peppers are not completely dry, toast them over a flame on the stovetop before grinding them. This makes enough spice mix for two batches of the spread.
Hot Paprika and Walnut Spread (Muhammara/Acika)
MUHAMMARA IS A CLASSIC that is an indispensable meze or all-purpose spread in the eastern and southeastern regions of Turkey. It is a delicious tribute to homemade tomato and pepper pastes, which are ever present in the homes of these regions. Although its name sounds like it would be Arabic in origin, this is actually a very popular appetizer of the Circassian people, who refer to it as acika. (These people are known for using a lot of walnuts in their cuisine, as in the Circassian chicken on this page.) There is a similar recipe, on this page, also called acika, but it is made with tahini and peanuts instead of walnuts. However, peppers are a key ingredient, and it is certain that this dish evolved to include peppers, as in this walnut spread.
Serves 6 to 8 as meze; double the recipe if this is the only meze
4 slices stale white bread, moistened with cold water to soften, then squeezed dry
6 paprika peppers or mild red chiles, grilled and peeled
3 cloves garlic and a pinch of salt, pounded with a mortar and pestle
1 tablespoon hot pepper paste (this page)
1 tablespoon tomato paste (this page)
1½ teaspoons hot red pepper flakes
3 tablespoons pomegranate syrup (see this page)
Put the stale bread and walnuts in a food processor and process until well mixed, but not pulverized. Remove and set aside. Add all the remaining ingredients to the food processor and process until blended. Combine the walnut mixture with the pepper mixture by pounding them together in a mortar and pestle, if you are a passionate cook, or simply mixing them together with a spoon. Serve with toasted slices of good crusty bread.
THIS SPREAD, made from dried fava beans, is an all-time favorite, especially for the meze table. It keeps well and is easy to make, provided you use dried fava beans from the current year’s harvest. If the beans are old, they will not cook evenly and you will have trouble making a smooth puree. As fresh fava beans have a very short season and grow in abundance, especially in the Aegean region, folks dry them and use them to make this puree. It can be eaten hot (it will be soupy) or cold (it will become firmer as it cools). Squares of cold fava puree on a serving platter make a pretty presentation when garnished with dill and red onions.
1 pound (500 g) dried fava (broad) beans (see Note)
1 medium onion, coarsely chopped
4 to 5 tablespoons virgin olive oil
1 red onion, sliced into rings
Pour the beans into a colander and rinse in plenty of water. Put the beans in a pot with 8¾ cups (1.8 L) cold water. Let the beans soak for 3 to 4 hours, then add the chopped onions and cook over medium heat for 50 to 60 minutes, until the beans are broken down almost into a puree. Remove from the heat, add the sugar, salt, and sunflower oil, and mix well. Press the puree through a colander into a bowl, mashing any intact beans with the back of a spoon to get rid of any chunky pieces. When cooled, garnish with dill, drizzle with the olive oil (this enriches the taste and also helps create a creamy texture), and serve with the raw onion rings.
Note: When purchasing dried beans, it is important to choose beans from the current year’s harvest, if possible, so that they will puree easily. To help ensure even cooking, you may add ¼ teaspoon baking soda to the cooking water, but good-quality fava beans break down on their own.
Chickpea Balls with Tahini (Topik)
TURKISH AND ARMENIAN cooking are very similar, so much so that it is difficult to say what recipe belongs to which culture. However, topik is a uniquely Armenian dish that was recently introduced to Turkish restaurants by Armenian Christians living in Istanbul, where it’s become quite popular. Although this dish, made of chickpeas and tahini with an onion filling, is not classified as an appetizer (I believe, considering the ingredients, it was made during the time of fasting), I’ve included it in the meze section because that’s how it is served today.
I first prepared this recipe with the American author Anya von Bremzen, and it was a great success. We were on a boat, so we used whatever ingredients were available. Topik is traditionally prepared by wrapping it in cheesecloth, but we used foil. According to the original recipe, which was given to us on the boat via a telephone call to a girlfriend who’s married to an Armenian, the onions should be boiled, not caramelized, but we liked the rich flavor that caramelized onions added, and I’ve included them in this recipe as well.
4 cups (480 g) coarsely chopped white onions
¼ cup (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
½ cup (60 g) pistachios or pine nuts, toasted in the oven
2 cups (400 g) chickpeas, soaked in water overnight, cooked until tender the next day and preferably skinned, cooking liquid reserved
2 medium potatoes, peeled, chopped, boiled (in just enough water to cover them, so that they will have substance), and mashed
Sesame seeds, for serving (optional)
Pekmez, for serving (optional)
Put the currants in a bowl, add water to cover the currants by ½ inch (12 mm), soak for 30 minutes, then drain and dry them on a paper towel. Meanwhile, in a large sauté pan over medium heat, sauté the onions in the oil until translucent, about 7 minutes. Reduce the heat to low and cook the onions until caramelized, about 10 minutes more. Add the toasted nuts, cinnamon, allspice, and currants to the onions, toss to combine, and remove from the heat.
In a blender, puree the chickpeas with some of their cooking liquid in two batches, adding small amounts of cooking liquid as necessary. (The mixture should be very thick; add just enough liquid to keep the processor going.) Transfer the chickpeas to a large bowl, stir in the potatoes and tahini, and season with salt. (You should have a malleable but not too soft mixture; it will harden more in the refrigerator.)
Line an 8-inch (20-cm) square baking pan with plastic wrap and pat half of the chickpea and potato mixture in the bottom. Arrange the onion mixture in a uniform layer over the chickpea and potato mixture. Place the remaining chickpea and potato mixture on top, and smooth with a spatula. (A small-cupped muffin tin would work here as well). Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 3 to 4 hours.
Preheat the over to 350°F (175°C). Heat the topik until just warm. Cut into squares or rounds, sprinkle with sesame seeds, drizzle with pekmez, and serve.
THIS SPREAD was a ubiquitous meze about thirty years ago. I cannot tell you why, but all of a sudden it disappeared from menus everywhere. During the last few years, it has made a comeback in almost all fine fish restaurants. I shared this recipe in my newspaper column a few years ago and I like to think that aided its comeback. There is, however, no consensus about which fish’s roe should be used. Some say carp roe, some say trout is the best—but I will stick to sea bass roe, which is used by my favorite meyhane (restaurant), Refik. The owner of the restaurant passed away recently, but his chef of thirty years has followed the same recipe. At Refik, sacks of roe that weigh six to eight ounces (170 to 225 g) are used, but as long as the roe you use is an orangey yellow and not red, and the eggs are almost as small as grains of sand, this recipe will work just fine. Just be sure to remove the sack that the roe comes in with care; if the roe is heavily salted, which it usually is in Turkey, you should first soak the roe in its sack in plenty of water. Repeat, changing the water several times, or your tarama will be very salty. You can always add more salt to the spread later if necessary.
2 slices white bread, preferably stale, crusts removed, moistened with water to soften then squeezed dry
Juice of 1 lemon, plus 1 to 2 tablespoons more if needed
1½ cups (360 ml) sunflower oil
Soak the roe in its sack in cold water for about 20 minutes, until the salt is removed. (Roe is hard in the summertime, so drain it once, and then soak again to soften it.) Remove the sack and squeeze the roe in your palm until no water remains. Put the bread and roe in a deep, narrow pot, add the lemon juice, and hand mix until thoroughly combined. (Never use an electric mixer, as it will break the roe and ruin the dish!) Gradually add the oil in small amounts, letting the roe mixture absorb the oil between additions, until the mixture is a little thicker than mayonnaise. Taste and add more lemon juice, if necessary. (The mixture becomes whiter every time you add lemon, but also tangier, so add in moderation.) Place the spread on a serving platter and smooth with a wet spoon. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for up to 1 day. Serve chilled.
THIS APPETIZER is another favorite, sold at snack bars. Some people go to the fish market on İstiklal Caddesi, the famous promenade in Istanbul that starts at Taksim Square and goes all the way to the Old Galata District, exclusively to eat fried mussels from among all the other delicacies. This recipe lets you create a comparable taste at home.
1 recipe batter from the Crispy Zucchini Slices recipe (this page)
20 fresh mussels, shucked, rinsed, and patted dry
Olive or sunflower oil, or a mix of the two, for frying
Put the batter in a shallow bowl, add the mussels, and turn them to coat. Heat the oil in a deep, heavy saucepan or pot over medium-high heat. When the oil is really hot, fry a few mussels at a time, carefully placing them in the oil one by one and leaving plenty of room between them so they fry quickly and their flesh does not dry out. Fry until completely golden, about 2 minutes. Transfer the fried mussels to paper towels to drain, then repeat with the remaining mussels in batches. Serve hot.
SARDINE BALLS are my own creation, and I think they feature an appetizing and attractive combination of ingredients. I was inspired by the zucchini pancakes known as mücver (this page) and also thought that eating the sardines with some herbs would be tasty. The idea for cumin came from Tunisian cuisine, which serves fish sprinkled with this spice. Cornmeal adds a crunchy texture to the coating.
2 pounds (910 g) fresh sardines, deboned
½ packed cup (10 g) minced fresh parsley
1 tablespoon cumin seeds, toasted for 30 seconds in a small pan
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
¾ cup (105 g) toasted cornmeal
Chop half the sardines with a knife and chop the other half in a food processor; transfer both to a dish. Add the egg whites, parsley, mint, and cumin and mix well. Season with salt and pepper and stir well with a wooden spoon. Combine the flour and toasted cornmeal in a bowl. Use two spoons to make walnut-size balls of the sardine mixture, then coat with the flour mixture. Heat ½ inch (12 mm) of oil in a frying pan over medium heat, carefully add the balls to the oil, and fry thoroughly until the outsides are browned and the balls are slightly springy to the touch of the tongs. Drain on paper towels and serve.
Red Lentil Balls with Cornichons
THESE LENTIL balls originated in the Gaziantep region, but eventually they became an indispensable offering at ladies’ teatime all around Turkey. (This way, ladies could enjoy these appetizers without visiting a tavern, which is not a common practice for women outside of cosmopolitan cities.) These are a treat for every budget and every palate. Traditionally they are rolled between the palms of your hands, but I make the balls with a ayran (yogurt drink; this page) spoon, a special utensil made in Gaziantep to go with a metal ayran bowl. You can use an ice cream scoop instead. In Gaziantep, these lentil balls are eaten with a side of any kind of pickle, and I like to follow this tradition because it is so fitting.
1 cup (190 g) red lentils, washed
1 tablespoon tomato paste (this page)
1 tablespoon hot red pepper paste (this page)
3 tablespoons minced medium-hot green chiles, such as jalapeños
1 cup (20 g) minced fresh parsley leaves
½ tablespoon fresh tarragon, or 1 tablespoon dried
2 stalks fresh young garlic, minced (optional, if in season; see Note)
Cornichons, cut into slices, for serving
Put the lentils and 5 cups (1.2 L) water in a large pot, bring to a boil, and cook until the lentils are soft and shapeless, 25 to 30 minutes, skimming off any surface foam with a slotted spoon. Add the tomato and red pepper pastes and cook for 3 minutes more. Remove from the heat, stir in the bulgur, and let cool.
Sauté the diced onions and minced garlic in the oil until the onions are translucent, then add the chiles. Set aside.
Add the parsley, tarragon, salt to taste, and the green onions to the lentil mixture and knead in with your hands. When the mixture begins to hold together, add the sautéed onion mixture and the young garlic, if using, and knead to combine. Form into walnut-size balls with your hands or an ice cream scoop. Serve with the cornichon slices.
Note: Fresh young garlic comes out in spring and is on the market for only a short time. It has a special place in Turkish cuisine and is even eaten raw as a side dish. The white parts of spring garlic eventually grow into the more familiar garlic bulbs, with a cluster of garlic cloves.
Fried Calamari Rings with Pistachio Sauce
THERE IS no appetizer like rings of fried calamari, crispy on the outside and tender inside. It is served with a special mayonnaise, yogurt, and garlic dressing nowadays, but here is my version of the traditional Turkish sauce. I use pistachios instead of the walnuts typically used in the traditional version, giving it a rounder taste, provided the pomegranate syrup is not the most sour kind. (This sauce can also be served with other fish dishes.)
½ loaf stale white bread, sliced and moistened with water to soften
⅓ cup (40 g) coarsely ground pistachio nuts
1 tablespoon pomegranate syrup (see this page)
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
4 whole squid, cleaned and sliced into ½-inch (12-mm) rings
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
Olive oil or sunflower oil for frying (see Note)
Make the sauce: Completely squeeze the water out of the bread. Put the bread in a pot or large mortar with the pistachios and garlic and pound with a pestle. The more pasty the texture, the better it will taste. Add the pomegranate syrup, lemon juice, and oil and combine with a spoon until uniform.
Make the calamari: Put the calamari rings in a bowl with the sugar, salt, and baking soda and knead like dough. Add the beer and let sit for 10 to 15 minutes. Spread the flour on a platter, squeeze the calamari in your palm, and add it to the platter. Heat the oil in a heavy saucepan over medium heat. Roll the calamari rings back and forth in the flour, and then fry them in the hot oil for 2 to 3 minutes, until evenly browned. Place on a paper towel to drain, and then serve immediately with lemon wedges and the sauce with chives on the side.
Note: Don’t fry these in extra-virgin olive oil; it imparts too heavy a taste.
THESE “BIRDS,” as they are called in the Black Sea region, are traditionally made from the unique-tasting anchovies known as hamsi. When two of these fish are put face-to-face, they resemble a bird with the tail sticking out. I kept the preparation method but substituted sardines and made a special filling to give this dish extra flavor.
1 large egg white, lightly beaten with 1 tablespoon water
⅓ cup (55 g) all-purpose flour
½ packed cup (10 g) very finely minced fresh parsley
1 teaspoon ground allspice (optional)
Put the lightly beaten egg white and water in a shallow bowl (this way you can work more easily when you are dipping the birds). Combine the flour and cornmeal on a plate, and in a second bowl, combine the filling of parsley, onion, pepper, allspice, and salt to taste. Spread each sardine out so both sides lie flat. Put 1 tablespoon of the parsley mixture on a fish and cover it with another fish to enclose the filling.
Carefully dip the filled sardines first in the egg white, then the flour (if desired, you can use a slim spatula to turn the fish around so your fingers don’t get too messy). Repeat with the remaining sardines and filling (you should have 12 sardine birds in all).
Heat ½ inch (12 mm) oil over medium heat. Working in batches, lower the sardine birds slowly into the oil with a spatula, fry them on one side for 2 minutes, then turn (if using tongs, do not put pressure on the fish) and cook for 2 minutes more, or until golden. Drain on paper towels. Serve hot.
THIS MEZE DISH is one of my most popular recipes. Everyone loves it and, as easy as it is to make, it will always be a success. Just make sure your zucchini slices are drained of as much of their water as possible. You may serve these with Yogurt and Garlic Sauce (this page), if you like. It’s my favorite sauce, but I usually prefer these without it, so that the sweetness of the zucchini is not overwhelmed.
3 to 4 medium zucchini (6 to 7 if they are petite), cut lengthwise into ½-inch (12-mm) slices
5 heaping tablespoons (45 g) all-purpose flour, or more if needed
Arrange the zucchini pieces in a single layer on a baking sheet and let sit in the sun for 25 to 30 minutes, or tightly reassemble the slices and leave them in the refrigerator for a few hours. You can also lay the slices in a colander, salt them, and then dry them after they’ve sweat out their liquid. (Any of these methods helps the zucchini lose its extra moisture, and this is the key to crispiness.)
Make the batter: Put the flour in a large bowl. Mix the beer with ½ cup (180 ml) water. Very slowly add the liquid to the flour, constantly stirring, to form a paste the consistency of very soft pudding; add more flour or water, if necessary. (The batter should stick to the slices, but should not be too heavy.) Season the batter with salt.
Heat just less than ½ inch (12 mm) oil in a frying pan over medium heat. Completely coat the zucchini slices with the batter and fry in batches until nicely browned on both sides, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Drain on paper towels. Serve hot.
ZUCCHINI FLOWERS are one of the many interesting ingredients used in the Aegean region. They are usually stuffed, but I think they are just as delicious fried. I tried an Italian version with cheese filling, but found that they are much lighter and crispier without cheese. The nicely browned blossoms are a real treat for both the eyes and the palate.
1 recipe batter from the Crispy Zucchini Slices recipe (above)
20 zucchini blossoms, picked early in the morning while still open (see Note)
Fry the zucchini blossoms in the same manner as the zucchini slices in the recipe above. Drain on paper towels and serve hot.
Note: If you do not have a garden, you can buy the blossoms at a farmers’ market.
WITH ITS ABUNDANCE of herbs, this was once a much-loved spring dish; people would eagerly anticipate the tableau of green pancakes with crispy edges. While zucchini is now available year-round, for some reason I still consider this a spring dish and try to serve it in season. In the Ottoman era, the spiced meatballs now referred to as kofta (köfte) were also called mücver. Both the pancakes and meatballs were cooked in special pans with indentations called mücver tavası. These pans are found only in antique shops today, but a spoon and a flat pan works just as well.
5 zucchini (4 inches/10 cm long), peeled and shredded (using the grater’s largest holes)
2 cups (40 g) fresh parsley leaves, chopped
½ cup (10 g) fresh dill leaves, chopped
½ cup (10 g) fresh mint leaves, chopped
3 to 4 green onions, minced (1 cup/95 g)
4 ounces (115 g) feta cheese, grated
3 heaping tablespoons all-purpose flour, plus more if necessary
Lay the shredded zucchini on a clean dish towel or cheesecloth. Sprinkle with the salt, let sit for 15 minutes, squeeze out the moisture with both hands, and place the zucchini in a bowl. Add the parsley, dill, mint, green onions, diced onion, cheese, pepper, egg, and egg yolk. Mix well, then gradually stir in the flour to make a smooth batter (if the batter seems thin, add another ½ tablespoon flour). Heat ½ inch (12 mm) of oil in a heavy frying pan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, place large spoonfuls of batter in the pan and fry the pancakes on both sides until nicely golden. Drain on paper towels and repeat with the remaining batter. Arrange on a serving dish and serve hot with yogurt and dill.
Crispy Eggplant with Tulum Cheese and Pekmez
I FOUND this recipe in a cookbook about regional cooking, and the interesting combination caught my attention immediately. I would never have thought of serving all these ingredients in one dish, but here they come together in a phenomenal meze. You may also serve this meze wrapped in a very thin flatbread.
3 large Italian eggplants, not peeled, very thinly sliced (you may use a mandoline)
3½ ounces (100 g) Erzincan or any other tulum cheese (see Note) or any rich, ripe crumbly cheese, such as Parmesan, crumbled
2 to 3 tablespoons pekmez (see this page)
Salt the eggplant slices and let sit in a colander to remove their juices. (This will yield a crisper result.) Fry the eggplant slices in batches (do not crowd them) in at least 1 inch (2.5 cm) of oil over medium heat. (Medium heat is ideal, as the longer the frying time, the crisper the eggplant will be.) Alternatively, you may deep-fry the eggplant according to the instructions for your fryer. When the eggplant slices are as crispy as a potato chip, take them out with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Transfer to a serving platter, top with the cheese and pekmez, and serve.
Note: The phrase tulum peyniri refers to all cheeses that are matured in a casing, traditionally made from goatskin; however, the most famous and sought after is the Tulum from Erzincan, a city in the eastern region of Turkey. This pleasantly sharp and crumbly cheese is made from unpasteurized sheep’s milk produced by the sheep that graze on the aromatic greens of the area’s numerous plateaus. The salt that is used is also very special: It’s retrieved from naturally salted water collected in the ponds and lakes of nearby Kemah. The rennet is also homemade, produced by mixing a coagulated enzyme from a sheep’s stomach with sugar, salt, and water. Erzincan tulumu goes well with walnuts and is always served in kebab restaurants before your kebab arrives. Tulum cheese is not eaten with a fork, but gathered up in a piece of bread, which to my mind is the most natural and human way of eating.
NOT MANY people like liver, probably because they’ve never tasted it properly cooked. I did not like liver much until I tried it at one of the popular but humble restaurants in Setüstü near Kireçburnu on the Bosphoros, some twenty years ago. The secret of preparing liver is that it has to be fried in an instant, never longer than 1 minute.
1 medium onion, cut into rings
1 cup (20 g) fresh parsley leaves
½ tablespoon mild red pepper flakes
1 lamb liver (purchase from a halal butcher), membrane removed with the tip of a knife, cut into 1-inch (2.5-cm) cubes
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
Olive oil or sunflower oil, or an equal mix of the two, for frying
Make the onion salad: Toss together the onion, parsley, and red pepper flakes and spread on a serving platter.
Make the liver: Rinse the liver and let it drain in a colander. Combine the flour and salt to taste in a shallow bowl, coat the liver cubes with the flour mixture, and transfer them to a colander or sifter to shed excess flour. Heat 1½ inches (4 cm) of oil in a heavy pot over high heat. Add a handful of the liver cubes to the hot oil (only enough cubes to cover the bottom of the pot to prevent the first batch from overcooking). Fry until golden, but no more than 1 minute or the liver will stiffen and lose its flavor. (There is no need to drain the liver on paper towels.) Repeat with the remaining liver cubes until all the liver is fried. Arrange the liver on top of the salad, or serve it in a separate dish.
Blanched Chicory with Oil and Lemon
AN APPETIZER specialty of Istanbul and İzmir, chicory is an astringent green that’s abundant in the markets of these cities. This type of chicory is more familiarly known as escarole in the States.
1 pound (455 g) chicory (escarole), well washed and drained
2 cloves garlic and a pinch salt, crushed together with a mortar and pestle (optional)
2 to 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Juice of 1 lemon (about 2 tablespoons)
Bring 2 quarts (2 L) salted water to a boil. Add the chicory and cook for 7 to 8 minutes, until al dente. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a colander to drain. Put the chicory on a platter. If using the garlic and salt mixture, add it to the oil, then mix in the lemon juice. Beat briefly with a fork until emulsified and then pour the dressing over the still-warm chicory. You can prepare the dressing up to 30 minutes beforehand, but the chicory tastes best if prepared at the last minute. If you need to boil the chicory earlier, you can dip the greens in very hot water for 30 seconds just before dressing and serving.
Circassian Chicken, the Easy Way
ALTHOUGH MY grandmother’s mother was a Circassian beauty, Circassian chicken was not a dish made in our family kitchen. My mother always complained about its muddled look, so I was not introduced to this rich, flavorful mix of shredded chicken, walnuts, and spices until late in life. In the book The Private World of Ottoman Women, which is a reconstruction of women’s lives in the Ottoman period, Godfrey Goodwin passes on a memory of a woman who witnessed the making of what was probably the original recipe for çerkez tavuğu (Circassian chicken), which had an intimidating reputation for being a labor-intensive task that took a whole day to make. As the woman who shared the recipe said:
First, we have to start the job with eight grandmothers! [It’s a job that lasts one whole day.] And don’t forget the clay vases. While several women tried to break the shells of walnuts fresh enough to blacken their hands, the others shredded the chicken breasts and laid them at the bottom of the vases black from walnut oil. [They probably layered freshly cut walnuts between the pieces of chicken.] This process continued until the vases were filled to the brim. This “ambrosia” would stand all night long with a brick on top and be ready to be served only at lunchtime the next day.
Today this recipe is completed in a much shorter time, and dried walnuts are used instead of fresh ones. To prepare the tastiest Circassian Chicken, however, be sure to shell the nuts at the last minute. For results more similar to the original recipe, I also recommend pounding the nuts and bread together in a mortar and pestle with batches of chicken stock added along the way (see Note). All good things need a little bit of time and attention.
1 medium chicken (2 to 3 pounds/910 g to 1.4 kg), preferably free-range
2 fresh bay leaves, or ½ dried bay leaf
4 thin slices stale white bread, crusts removed
11 ounces (310 g/about 3 cups) walnut halves, one-third of it ground with a mortar and pestle if you like (see Note)
1 teaspoon ground hot red pepper
1 clove garlic and a pinch of salt, crushed with a mortar and pestle
1½ teaspoons freshly ground coriander
Put the chicken in a pot with the onion, carrot, parsley, bay leaves, cloves, and salt. Add cold water to cover and heat over medium heat. When the water is about to boil, skim off any scum with a spoon so that you have clear water without any residue. Cook the chicken until you can easily insert a fork into it, up to 1 hour. Let cool, remove to a cutting board, then shred the chicken meat or cut into walnut-size pieces (the skin can be included; it adds flavor to the dish).
Make the sauce: In a food processor, put the bread, two-thirds of the walnuts, ¾ cup (180 ml) of the broth, the red pepper, white pepper, and garlic-salt mixture. Mix until incorporated, then gradually add the remaining ¾ cup (180 ml) broth and process until the sauce is thick enough to coat the chicken pieces. When the desired thickness is reached, add the remaining walnuts (this crunchy batch will give a nice texture to the sauce) and coriander. In a pan, toss the chicken with the sauce until well coated. Place the chicken on a serving platter, drizzle with the walnut oil, and sprinkle with hot pepper flakes, if you like. Serve hot.
Note: Women used to make the topping for Circassian chicken by pounding the walnuts with pestles, then extracting their oil by squeezing the walnuts in a piece of cloth and mixing it all with hot paprika. I’ve simplified this method, but still recommend pounding the walnuts. Better yet, I strongly recommend pounding the bread and walnuts together in a mortar and pestle, gradually incorporating the broth as you go; it makes for a more flavorful dish because the walnuts release their tasty oil during the process.
Fried Balls of Greens and Figs
THANKS TO the microclimates of the Aegean region, Turkey is a prodigious grower of figs. Those grown around Aydın are world famous—this area provides the entire world with dried bardacık figs. These figs are light green when fresh, and, since they are so abundant, farmers start drying them even when fresh ones are still on the trees. Despite their abundance, we do not use them in recipes apart from a few fig desserts, but instead prefer to eat them on their own. But I thought pairing them with fresh herbs like parsley, green onions, fresh young garlic, and pine nuts would be an interesting yet tasty combination—and it is. The sweetness of the figs creates a nice contrast to the greens and spices.
2 cups (40 g) fresh minced parsley leaves
1 pound (455 g) green onions, finely minced
8 ounces (225 g) fresh young garlic, finely minced, if available (see Note, this page); or 1 clove garlic, minced
1 teaspoon freshly ground coriander
6 to 7 dried figs, cut into chickpea-size dice
1 cup (130 g) all-purpose flour
3 large egg whites, lightly beaten
Olive and sunflower oil (mixed half and half) for frying
Put the parsley, green onions, and young garlic in a bowl and add salt to taste, along with the pepper and coriander. With your hands, mix and knead. Add the figs and pine nuts and stir to incorporate. Add the flour, baking powder, and egg whites and mix with a wooden spoon until a yogurtlike consistency is achieved. Heat 1½ inches (4 cm) of oil in a heavy frying pan (see Note). When the oil is hot, place large spoonfuls of the batter in the oil (do not crowd the pan). Fry the balls until golden brown, 4 to 5 minutes, then drain on paper towels. Repeat with the remaining batter and serve hot.
Note: Since you will be frying in small batches, to economize on oil use a small, deep pot, as these fry very quickly.
I ENCOUNTERED new tastes when I first joined a raki table and shared in the meze. The selection differed according to the places we dined, but smoked mackerel was always included. I loved it. It is a meze that goes very well with raki. What I liked most was that it had a sharp, intense flavor like wind-dried meat—even though it was fish. I never guessed that one day I would meet the master of smoked mackerel, Hstro Dulidus, son of the founder of the Agora Tavern and the last of the family to operate this esteemed establishment, and learn all his secrets, which I share with you in the recipe below. Although I never had the chance to visit the Agora Tavern, I coincidentally met Hstro in Salonika. (What great luck to have come across a person who holds such an important place in Turkish meyhane history!) According to this master, they usually made smoked mackerel from lean mackerel, which were dried on the Agora’s terrace by Jewish tenants. This tradition of drying fish continues today, but with mackerel becoming a rarity, other fish are used as well.
8 ounces (225 g) dried mackerel (or other dried fish)
3 to 4 tablespoons white wine vinegar (see this page), plus more for soaking the fish
Scorch the fish over an open flame. (A gas stovetop burner can be used.) Wrap the fish in a vinegar-soaked cloth and refrigerate for 1 hour. Unwrap the fish and remove the softened skin. Break the flesh into shredlike pieces (a brass pestle is the traditional tool, but you could use whatever type of pestle you have). Place the shreds of fish on a serving platter, then pour the remaining vinegar and the oil over the fish. Garnish with the dill and serve.
Note: Altough it is not traditional, serving the fish with a splash of olive oil will mellow the acidity.
AS THE TURKISH Greek community dwindled, many items from Turkish cuisine were added to tavern meze menus. The classic tavern recipes, however, are from the Greeks—the creators of tavern food—and to some extent from the Jewish community as well. These recipes remain, but I do not recall reading one for roasted baby bonito. To make this dish, you’ll need a casserole or oven-safe earthenware pot.
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
2 baby bonito, cleaned but left whole
2 mild green chiles, like Anaheim
Salt
Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Whisk together the lemon juice and oil and brush it on both sides of the fish. Lay the fish in a casserole or earthenware pot, put the whole green chiles beside them, and place the tomato quarters wherever there is room; brush the vegetables with the remaining oil mixture and sprinkle with salt. Roast, covered, for 20 minutes, until barely brown on top. Serve hot or warm.
Cornmeal Pancakes with Anchovies
THE ONLY recipe shared in Evliya Çelebi’s Book of Travels, written in the seventeenth century, is very similar to the pancake recipe below. He calls his pancakes pilaki, which is a vegetable dish of leeks and celery root. In the Black Sea region, this quickbread and other anchovy dishes are made with a special pan called a döndürme tavası (meaning “turn over”), which makes flipping the food easier.
10 leeks, outside layer removed and discarded, washed thoroughly, and chopped into chickpea-size pieces
2 packed cups (80 g) chopped Swiss chard
2 cups (100 g) salted anchovies, chopped
½ packed cup (10 g) minced fresh mint
½ packed cup (10 g) minced fresh parsley
⅓ cup (75 ml) corn oil for frying
Pickled plums (or pickle of your choice), for serving (optional)
Salt, only if necessary (it’s not required if the fish is well salted)
In a bowl, rub together the leeks, Swiss chard, anchovies, and half the cornmeal so that the surfaces of the vegetables are scored. (The moisture they release will help make a better dough.) Add ½ cup (120 ml) water, the remaining cornmeal, and the mint, parsley, and pepper.
Heat the oil in an 11-inch (28-cm) pan, then press the dough carefully into the pan. Make holes in the dough with a wooden spoon in several places to help it cook evenly. Cook for 15 minutes over medium heat, then flip the pancake and cook the other side for 15 minutes; it should take on a golden color on both sides. (You can turn and flip the dough by covering the top of the pan tightly with a plate, turning the pancake upside down onto the plate, and then sliding the pancake back into the pan, cooked side up.) Serve warm with pickles, if desired, adding salt to taste as needed.
Salmon Tartar Made in the Style of Uncooked Kofta (Çiğ Somon Köftesi)
THIS IS a dish from the young chef Dilara Erbay, well known for being experimental in the kitchen. Her version of Turkish cuisine’s famous çiğ köfte (tartar kofta) with salmon is delicious. Although the concept of the original remains, all of the ingredients have changed. I found it extremely creative and very fitting to a cuisine that is open to new tastes.
½ cup (10 g) minced fresh coriander
⅔ cups (15 g) minced flat-leaf parsley
1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
2 inches (5 cm) fresh ginger, grated finely
2 cloves garlic, pounded to a paste
1 tablespoon rice wine vinegar
½ pound (224 g) very fresh uncooked salmon, without the skin and bones, minced
Cook the bulgur in 1 cup (240 ml) hot water over low heat until almost soft but not mushy, 4 to 5 minutes. Set aside to cool, keeping covered until ready to use.
Combine the bulgur, coriander, parsley, lime juice, soy sauce, sesame oil, salt, pepper, tomato paste, ginger, garlic, and rice wine vinegar in a bowl and mix well. When completely combined, add the salmon. Fold the salmon into the mixture gently, taking care not to mash the fish too much.
Form the mixture into elongated balls, either by rolling between the palms or shaping with a tablespoon. Sprinkle with sesame seeds, turning the kofta gently to coat all the sides. You should have 20 to 25 kofta.
To make the sauce, combine the soy sauce, sesame oil, sugar (if desired), and sesame seeds in a bowl and stir well.
Serve on a platter lined with lettuce leaves. Pass the sauce on the side.
LATELY, PEOPLE are taking notice of the tasty green called samphire (or sea beans), which grows in dry areas of Turkey beside the sea. Interestingly, samphire and black-eyed peas have similar names in Turkish. (Black-eyed peas are called börülce, and samphire is called deniz börülcesi; deniz means “the sea.”) This must be because the samphire resembles the slim, green black-eyed peas when they are picked fresh. (They become black-eyed once they are dried, but we also like to eat them fresh; for a recipe, see this page.)
1 cup (200 g) dried black-eyed peas, soaked for 2 hours in cold water
8 ounces (225 g) samphire (sea beans), washed
1 to 2 cloves garlic and a pinch of salt, crushed together with a mortar and pestle
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
Boil the peas in plenty of water until tender, 15 to 20 minutes, depending on the age of the peas. Let stand in the cooking water. Bring a large pot of water to a boil, add the samphire, and cook until the woody inner stems loosen up, about 15 minutes. Drain and remove and discard the stems.
Drain the peas and place them in a bowl. Sprinkle with salt to taste and arrange the samphire on top. Whisk together the oil and garlic-salt mixture, and then pour this mixture and the lemon juice over the peas and greens. Sprinkle with the sumac and serve.
WILD RADISH leaves make a tasty salad or appetizer when nature offers them to us, which is in early spring.
5 to 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 clove garlic and pinch salt, crushed together with a mortar and pestle (optional)
Bring 2 quarts (2 L) salted water to a boil. Add the wild radishes and cook for 7 to 8 minutes, until al dente. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a colander to drain. Put the wild radishes in a bowl. Whisk together the oil, lemon juice, and garlic-salt mixture, if using, until emulsified. Toss the dressing with the still-warm wild radishes and serve.
GRAY MULLET caviar, most popularly called botargo (balık yumurtası in Turkish), is a rare delicacy made by drying the roe. An expensive food that is not served in Turkish restaurants, it is greatly prized by home cooks. Here the roe is served atop squares of baked yufka, a large, round sheet of paper-thin dough that is essential to Turkish pastries. Look for it online or in stores where they sell Middle Eastern delicacies. If you can’t find yufka, tortillas will make a good replacement, providing you cut the round into 1-inch (2.5-cm) squares. Even triangles will do!
1 sheet yufka (see above), cut into 1-inch (2.5-cm) squares
15 to 20 slices gray mullet caviar (botargo), 
inch (2 mm) thick
Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C).
Arrange the yufka squares on a baking sheet (you’ll have about 50 squares in all), and bake them for about 5 minutes, until crisp. (You can store them in an airtight container after roasting for up to 15 days.) Put a lentil-size piece of butter on each yufka square (it will help keep the botargo in place), top with a botargo slice, and serve immediately.
THE FIRST TIME I prepared this appetizer at home, it was for my dear friends Samuel and Samantha Clark, owners and chefs of the successful Moro Restaurant in London, known for its award-winning Moorish cuisine and also some specialties from the Middle East. They added it to their menu, and I was both surprised and happy when it became their best-selling appetizer dish.
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
½ red onion, cut into thin rings
12 to 15 slices gray mullet caviar (botargo), very thinly sliced
Arugula leaves for serving (optional)
Whisk together the lemon juice and oil with salt and pepper to taste until light in color and well mixed. (In order to prevent the avocados from browning, have all the other ingredients ready.) Peel the avocados and remove the pits. Slice and open the avocado halves like a fan, without breaking the slices apart, and immediately dress with the oil and lemon juice. (If this presentation is too difficult, slice the avocados instead.) Top with the onion and then the botargo, garnish with the dill, and serve with arugula, if you like.
I GOT the idea for these from some scallop and hot mustard canapés served to me in the States. These delectable hors d’oeuvres can be made to meet any budget: You may omit the botargo, but I’d suggest a fresh onion, cut into rings, as a substitute.
6 thin flatbreads or lavash, if available
5 large eggs, hard-boiled, peeled, and diced
3 to 4 tablespoons grated gray mullet caviar (botargo)
Whisk the oil with the mustard and brush onto the flatbreads. Add 2 tablespoons diced egg to each piece of bread. Season with salt and sprinkle with the pepper and grated botargo. Add a couple arugula leaves to each, roll up, and serve.
Omit the oil and mustard and substitute canned sardines (drained and deboned) for the botargo and lettuce leaves for the arugula.
