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Grünerløkka & Vulkan

oTorggata BotaniskeCOCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %980 17 830; Torggata 17b; h5pm-1am Sun-Wed, to 2am Thu, 2pm-3am Fri & Sat; jBrugata)

The greenhouse effect done right, with a lush assortment of indoor plants (including a warm herb-growing area) as well as beautiful mid-century light fittings and chairs, chandeliers, and lots of marble and mirrors. If you're not already seduced by the decor, the drinks will do it, with a list that features the bar's own produce, fresh fruit and good-quality spirits.

oTerritorietWINE BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://territoriet.no/; Markveien 58; h4pm-1am Mon-Fri, from noon Sat & Sun; jSchous plass)

A true neighbourhood wine bar that's also the city's most exciting. The grape-loving owners offer up more than 300 wines by the glass and do so without a list. Talk to the staff about your preferences and – yes, this is Norway – your budget, and they'll find something you'll adore. Ordering beer or gin and tonic won't raise an eyebrow, we promise.

There's vinyl on the decks (often something that's ironically nostalgic), arresting photographic works on the moodily dark walls and often not a chair or stool to spare.

oTim WendelboeCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %400 04 062; www.timwendelboe.no; Grüners gate 1; h8.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat & Sun; jSchous plass)

Tim Wendelboe is often credited with kick-starting the Scandinavian coffee revolution, and his eponymous cafe and roastery is both a local freelancers' hang-out and an international coffee-fiend pilgrimage site. All the beans are, of course, self-sourced and hand-roasted (the roaster is part of the furniture), and all coffees – from an iced pour-over to a regular cappuccino – are world class.

Supreme RoastworksCOFFEE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22 71 42 02; www.srw.no; Thorvald Meyers gate 18a; h7am-5pm; jBirkelunden)

Run by award-winning barista Odd-Steinar Tøllefsenis, named the World Brewers Cup Champion in Sweden in 2015, this friendly cafe and micro-roastery offers espresso-based coffees, drip or hand-filters (J60 or Chemex), and you can watch the beans being roasted while you drink.

OsloveloBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %23 23 05 53; www.oslovelo.com; Seilduksgata 23; h10am-3.30am Mon-Fri, from 9am Sat, 10am-1am Sun; jBirkelunden)

Celebrate cycling at this light and friendly cafe and bar. It does all-day breakfast with coffee from Supreme and serves all manner of beers, including those from the Grünerløkka Brewery, with DJs later in the evening. If you're travelling with your bike, it's also somewhere you can get repairs or buy parts.

Crowbar & BreweryBREWERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %21 38 67 57; http://crowbryggeri.com/; Torggata 32; h3pm-3am; g34)

Huge, rustic industrial brewery spread over two floors. They brew their own as well as pouring brews from Haandbryggeriet, Lindheim, Amundsen and Voss, along with some interesting Danish, Swedish and New World beers.

HyttaBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %45 40 55 52; Thorvald Meyers gate 70; h2pm-3am; jSchous plass)

So many Løkka bars, so little time. This one will grab your attention for its happy intimacy and towering bar stools, as well as Zeppelin on the turntable. For something that swings a little prog rock, the wine by the glass is rather good.

BortenforBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %922 66 683; http://ingensteds.no; Brenneriveien 7; h4pm-1am Tue-Sun; g54)

The only sign Bortenfor is there is the gate on Brenneriveien, so if you're lost best head for the bridge by stalwart club-bar Blå, but instead turn right and keep going. Along with the riverside beauty you'll get a cosy, cultured atmosphere, good music, Norwegian-themed cocktails and very decent wine by the glass.

Hendrix IbsenCOFFEE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %457 97 150; http://hendrixibsen.rocks; Vulkan 20; hMon-Thu 8am-11pm, to 3.30pm Fri & Sat, 10am-1pm Sun; g54)

Perfect place to grab a takeaway coffee for Akkerselva wandering, but you'll probably be tempted to linger over the racks of vintage vinyl or to pick up a bag of an interesting local roast coffee or hang out for an early-evening DJ performance.

BettolaCOCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/bettolacocktailbar; Trondheimsveien 2; h4pm-1am Mon-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat)

Mid-century furniture, a pretty tiled floor and friendly bar staff give this corner bar a welcoming vibe. It does one of the city's best negronis, and both the cocktail and wine lists are very well priced.

MirBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22 37 39 70; http://lufthavna.no; Toftes gate 69; h6pm-1am; jSchous plass)

Part of the Grünerløkka Lufthavn complex – a collective cultural centre set around a typical garden courtyard and home to many local artists, performers and musicians – Mir is pure Grünerløkka good times with space-station decor (they'll even lend you a space helmet), craft beers, house-blend chilli vodka, and daily entertainment such as electronic acts, improv jazz, DJs and quiz nights.

Paul's BoutiqueBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %483 87 730; www.facebook.com/PaulsBoutiqueOslo; Darres gate 1; h2pm-12.30am Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat; g54)

The Beastie Boys homage moniker might give you a clue as to this bar's ambience and older (though never old) hipster crowd. Parkside beers by day, simple, strong and well-made cocktails by night and ping pong in the basement whenever the hell you feel like it.

Grünerløkka BrygghusPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.brygghus.no; Thorvald Meyers gate 30; h3pm-1am Mon & Tue, to 2am Wed & Thu, to 3am Fri, noon-3am Sat, to midnight Sun; jOlaf Ryes plass)

This atmospheric alehouse and microbrewery does a range of house brews from pilsners to Weißbiers. Bottled beers include rarities such as sour surøls and Scandinavian Christmas beers. Stomach liners – burgers, bangers and mash, and fish and chips – can be ordered at the bar. Streetside benches are at a premium but worth trying to snare.

VillaCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.thevilla.no; Møllergata 23; h11pm-3am Fri & Sat; jBrugata)

With arguably the best sound system in the city, this is a diehard house- and electro-music club. In addition to Friday and Saturday, check for the occasional special Thursday gigs.

Bar BocaBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22 04 13 77; Thorvald Meyers gate 30; h11am-1am Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat; jOlaf Ryes plass)

A proper local's hang-out with an '80s-dive-bar vibe and super-welcoming staff. Beers go down well here, but they're also quite skilled with classic cocktails. It gets very busy at weekends and will be full when nowhere else is. A Grünerløkka must.

Colonel MustardPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %21 95 05 00; http://colonelmustard.no; Darres gate 2; h11am-1am Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat; g54)

Large vintage-furniture-filled pub named for a character from the boardgame Cluedo. There's a large range of beers on tap, lots of cosy nooks to settle into and Cluedo to play. If you're hungry, the fish-and-chip, risotto or osso buco dinners are good bets.

Tea LoungeBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.tealounge.no; Thorvald Meyers gate 33b; h11am-1am Mon-Wed, to 3am Thu-Sat, noon-1am Sun; jBirkelunden)

During the day this split-personality bar is a teashop with a small range of leafy brews and a chilled-out soundtrack, but in the dark of night it transforms itself into a bar

AGE LIMITS & DRESS CODES

Note that many Oslo nightspots have an unwritten dress code that expects patrons to be relatively well turned out – at the very least, don't show up in grubby gear and hiking boots. Many clubs, especially those serving spirits, impose a higher age limit.

St Olafs Plass, Bislett & St Hanshaugen

oFuglenCOCKTAIL BAR, CAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.fuglen.com; Universitetsgaten 2; h7.30am-10pm Mon & Tue, to 1am Wed & Thu, to 3am Fri, 11am-3am Sat, to 10pm Sun; g17B)

Fuglen and its crew of merry, young entrepreneurs are part of Oslo's dour-to-dreamily cool reinvention. Since taking over a traditional cafe, they've launched a coffee and Norwegian design mini-empire in Japan, while in their home city they continue to roast and brew as well as mix some of the best cocktails around.

Drinks are made with local spirits where possible and are often muddled with foraged ingredients (spruce tips, seaweed from the North Sea, forest flowers). There's a jukebox and iconic mid-century Norwegian furniture to sit on, or come during the day for always-perfect coffee on a footpath stool with a Norwegian wool rug for chillier days.

oRouleurs of OsloWINE BAR, CAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://rosl.no; Ullevålsveien 16; hnoon-1am Mon-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat, to 12.30am Sun; g37)

An elegant Francophile of a bar that happens also to be part of a bike-repair workshop? Hello St Hanshaugen. Come here for daytime coffees (and bike repairs), or in the evening for a pre-dinner cocktail or Chablis. If you don't want to leave (the wine list is that good), don't, and make a meal of its duck rillettes, pâté or charcuterie plates.

Kunstnernes HusBAR, PIZZA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22 85 34 10; http://kunstnerneshus.no; Wergelandsveien 17; h11am-10pm Tue-Thu, to 3am Fri, noon-3am Sat, noon-8pm Sun; g17B)

One of the city's various artist-run cultural institutions, Kunstnernes Hus is set in a spectacular 1929 functionalist building with a broad terrace overlooking the green of Slottsparken. It's a supremely laid-back and scenic place to have a spritz, wine or beer; the crowd is an interesting mix of the city's creatives; and there are always excellent tunes playing on the decks.

There's also a program of occasional exhibitions and lectures, and it has a number of artist studios. The pizza is good too.

Java EspressobarCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://javaoslo.no; Ullevålsveien 47; h7am-6pm Mon-Fri, from 8am Sat, from 9am Sun; g37)

Even if you're not in the neighbourhood, if you're a coffee fanatic it's worth the trip to pay homage to Java, which along with Tim Wendelboe and Fuglen revolutionised coffee in Norway. It's also a lovely light and high-ceilinged space to linger.

LorryBEER GARDEN, PUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://lorry.no; Parkveien 12; h11am-1am Mon, to 3.30am Tue-Sat, noon-1am Sun; g17B)

There's nothing New Nordic about Lorry: just ask the fictional Harry Hole of the Jo Nesbø detective novels. But it's a great place for an atmospheric old-school beer either inside or out, and you can, of course, make like Harry and eat here, with a menu of traditional Norwegian favourites.

3Entertainment

Oslo has a thriving live-music scene – it's said that the city hosts more than 5000 gigs a year. Its venues are spread across the city but concentrate on Møllegata and in Vulkan, Grünerløkka and Grønland. World-class opera or ballet performances are held at the Oslo Opera House. Book ahead or try for the last-minute 100kr standing tickets.

WHAT'S ON

The tourist office's free monthly brochure What's On in Oslo lists current concerts, theatre and special events. Its events calendar online is updated every three months or so and lists all upcoming events, as well as international band tours.

Central Oslo

Oslo Opera HouseOPERA

(Den Norske Opera & Ballett; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.operaen.no; Kirsten Flagstads plass 1; tickets 100-795kr; YSentralstasjonen)

Apart from being one of Norway's most impressive examples of contemporary architecture, Oslo Opera House is also the venue for world-class opera and ballet performances.

NationaltheatretTHEATRE

(National Theatre; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.nationaltheatret.no; Stortingsgata 15; tickets 160-480kr; jNationaltheatret)

Norway's showcase theatre, with its lavish hall, was constructed specifically as a venue for the works of Norwegian playwright Henrik Ibsen, whose works are still performed here. Its historicist style dates from 1899 and is care of Oslo's Henrik Bull.

MonoLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.cafemono.no; Pløens gate 4; h4pm-3am; jBrugata)

Mono is the dive bar of your dreams as well as being known for booking the best up-and-coming indie bands. In summer there's a suitably grungy internal courtyard that's perfect for an afternoon beer. Gigs generally begin at 9pm; otherwise it's a perfect late-night hang.

Saga KinoCINEMA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22 83 23 75; www.oslokino.no; Stortingsgata 28; jNationaltheatret)

The six-screen Saga Kino cinema shows first-run movies, including Hollywood fare, in their original language; the entrance is on Olav V's gate.

Filmens HusCINEMA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22 47 45 00; www.nfi.no; Dronningens gate 16; jDronningens gate)

Filmens Hus screens old classics and international festival winners.

Grünerløkka & Vulkan

oKafe HærverkLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %930 95 357; www.kafe-haerverk.com; Hausmanns gate 34; h6pm-3.30am Mon-Fri, from 4pm Sat & Sun; g54)

A friendly, intimate and rather stylish live venue that also has excellent craft beers and natural wines to drink. There's a summer courtyard for hanging between sets too. Expect electronic or indie acts, as well as some culty international acts like the Necks from Australia.

oBlåLIVE MUSIC, DANCE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.blaaoslo.no; Brenneriveien 9c; h1pm-4am; g54)

Blå is all things to everyone, with DJs (it happens to be the city's best spot for hip-hop), live gigs and jazz. On Sundays there is a live big band that's been playing every afternoon for years. Or just come early for a drink at one of the pretty riverside tables.

ParkteatretLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22 35 63 00; http://parkteatret.no; Olaf Ryes plass 11; jOlaf Ryes plass)

Oslo's beloved medium-sized venue, right on the lovely main square. Come to see international acts such as Shabazz Palaces or locals like Lindstrom and Anna of the North.

Rockefeller Music HallLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.rockefeller.no; Torggata 16; jBrugata)

One of the city's best concert halls, Rockefeller Music Hall, once a bathhouse, hosts a wide range of artists and events.

RevolverLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22 20 22 32; www.revolveroslo.no; Møllergata 32; h6pm-3.30am; jBrugata)

Dark and (ever so slightly) dirty rock-and-roll bar with an attached band room. A great place to see a local or interesting international act or just to hang at the front bar with a musician-heavy crowd.

Oslo SpektrumLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.oslospektrum.no; Sonja Henies plass 2; jOslo Spektrum)

One of the city's largest concert venues hosts a range of big-name international stars.

Sofienberg, Grønland & Tøyen

Gloria FlamesLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %401 46 163; www.gloriaflames.no; Grønland 18; h4pm-3am Wed-Sun; YGrønland)

Gloria Flames is a popular rock bar with frequent gigs (including some big-name performers), and a roof-terrace bar during daylight hours.

7Shopping

Oslo's centre and its inner neighbourhoods have a great selection of small shops if you're not into the malls. The city centre's Kirkegaten, Nedre Slottsgate and Prinsens gate are home to a well-considered collection of Scandinavian and international fashion and homewares shops, with Frogner and St Hanshaugen also having some good upmarket choices. Grünerløkka is great for vintage and Scandinavian fashion too.

oNorwegian RainFASHION & ACCESSORIES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %996 03 411; http://norwegianrain.com; Kirkegata 20; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat; jNationaltheatret)

Bergen comes to Oslo! The west-coast design superstar creates what might be the world's most coveted raincoats. This Oslo outpost stocks the complete range as well as creative director T-Michael’s woollen suits, detachable-collar shirts, leather shoes and bags, not to mention limited editions of Kings of Convenience LPs.

oUtopia Retro ModernVINTAGE, HOMEWARES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %408 60 460; www.utopiaretromodern.com; Bygdøy allé 7; h12.30-6pm Thu & Fri, 1-4pm Sat; jSolli)

Take note of this lovely 1929 functionalist shopfront before browsing the great mid-century design within; designed by Arne Korsmo and Sverre Aasland, it remains super-characteristic of the era. While you'll also find plenty of fantastic international pieces here, look out for the beautiful Norwegian design pieces, both original and reissued, from names such as Torbjørn Afdal, Gunnar Sørlie and Sven Ivar Dysthe.

oCappelens ForslagBOOKS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %908 81 106; www.cappelensforslag.no; Bernt Ankers gate 4; h11am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat; jBrugata)

Both a rare and cult lit dealer and cafe, this bookshop is set to be your new favourite. Make yourself at home on the front-room sofa with a good coffee and browse your way through its first editions and other gems, most of which are in English. It also hosts readings, book launches and concerts.

oChillout Travel CentreBOOKS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22 35 42 00; www.chillout.no; Markveien 55; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat, noon-6pm Sun; jSchous plass)

This is our kind of shop: good coffee, tasty dishes from around the world (dhal from India, snacks from Italy and cakes from...where else but Norway), loads of travel essentials such as bags and shoes, and a travel bookshop bursting with travel literature and guidebooks in Norwegian and English, including Lonely Planet guides.

TronsmoBOOKS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22 99 03 99; www.tronsmo.no; Universitetsgata 12; h9am-5pm Mon-Wed, to 6pm Thu & Fri, 10am-4pm Sat; jTullinløkka)

A social hub as much as a bookshop, come for its large range of English-language books and stay for a reading or performance. There's a large LGBT section and a basement full of comics and graphic novels.

Gutta På HaugenFOOD & DRINKS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22 60 85 12; http://gutta.no/; Ullevålsveien 45; h8am-7pm; g37)

For picnic or self-catering supplies, head to this well-stocked St Hanshaugen institution. There's a huge cheese selection with both Norwegian and European produce, a lovely array of local sausages and boxes of the must-try Norwegian flat bread. Its fresh produce is the best of the season and you can grab an excellent soft serve to take away at its ice-cream van across the road.

Staff are happy to help with recommendations.

FWSSFASHION & ACCESSORIES

(Fall Winter Spring Summer; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://fallwinterspringsummer.com; Prinsens gate 22; h10am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat; jØvre Slottsgate)

New flagship of this fast-growing Norwegian label, known for its easy basics as well as seasonal collections that combine Scandinavian simplicity with a pretty, playful edge.

Tom WoodFASHION & ACCESSORIES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %919 06 226; http://tomwoodproject.com; Kirkegata 20; h11am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat; jDronningens gate)

Oslo label Tom Wood's restrained monochromatic clothes are as Norwegian as you'll get, with their austere simplicity and high-quality natural materials. The silver jewellery will please fans of 20th-century Scandinavian design too.

NomadenBOOKS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %23 13 14 15; www.nomaden.no; Uranienborgveien 4; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat; g17B)

This is a classic travel bookshop where the shelves are bursting with guides, maps and travel literature that will have you dreaming of your next holiday in no time.

Gulating GrünerløkkaALCOHOL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %958 42 611; www.facebook.com/GulatingOlutsalgGrunerlokka; Markveien 48; h10am-8pm Tue-Fri, to 6pm Sat, noon-6pm Mon; jSchous plass)

Beer-lovers' heaven with one of Norway's largest selections of beers from classics to the novel and the rare. Friendly staff make it a double pleasure.

Råkk og RållsMUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22 41 17 01; Stortingsgata 8; h11am-6pm Mon-Sat; jStortinget)

Crate-digger heaven: a huge, rambling den of secondhand vinyl, mostly from the '70s and '80s, and much else besides.

HevnFASHION & ACCESSORIES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %400 62 430; https://hevn.no/; Torggata 36; h11am-7pm Mon-Sat; g34)

Nordic noir or Norwegian black, call it what you will. This shop specialises in the pared-back, mildly Gothic brand of Scandinavian fashion. There's both menswear and womenswear, jewellery and bags and shoes. All clothing is made ethically and it stocks a large range of designers from Norway, Sweden and Denmark.

Oslo KunsthandelART

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22 60 80 10; http://oslokunsthandel.no; Kristian Augusts gate 13; h11am-5pm Tue-Fri, noon-4pm Sat & Sun; jTullinløkka)

Whether you're in the market for museum-quality Modernist paintings and stunning mid-century furniture or not, this commercial gallery is a fabulous browse. It hosts good shows of emerging Norwegian artists at the front, while its resale pieces fill the rest of the large industrial space. These also include silver, glass, ceramics and rustic pieces as well as the previously mentioned modernist icons.

EnsembleFASHION & ACCESSORIES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %414 60 566; http://ensemble.as; Nordre Gate 15; h11am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat & Sun; jSchous plass)

Clean by Christina Ledang (a stellar local stylist) might be one of the few Norwegian labels here, but there's still a particularly 'northern' sensibility on display at this pretty shop. Garments by Danish label Norse Projects hang above shoes by Swedish shoemakers All Tomorrow's Parties, or find the racks of colourful cool Swede Rodebjer and lingerie and swimming costumes by Dutch darlings Love Stories.

Vestkanttorget Flea MarketMARKET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Amaldus Nilsens plass; h10am-4pm Sat; YMajorstuen)

If you're happy sifting through heaps of, well, junk in search of an elusive vintage band T-shirt or mid-century ceramic coffee pot, take a chance here. It's at the plaza that intersects Professor Dahls gate, a block east of Vigeland Park, and it's a more than pleasant way to pass a Saturday morning.

FaraSPORTS & OUTDOORS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.rosl.no; Ullevålsveien 16; h11-7pm Mon-Sat; g37)

Nordic minimalist design and Norwegian endurance (they're fjord-proof, we're told) combine in this new cycle design outfit from Stjordal up north. Part of Rouleurs next door, cycling devotees will like to check these beauties out. You can also ask about its program of local rides.

TorpedoBOOKS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.torpedobok.no; Wergelandsveien 17; h11am-4pm Tue & Wed, to 6pm Thu & Fri, noon-6pm Sat & Sun; jBjørvika)

An Oslo-based art publisher that stocks both its own publications as well as other Norwegian and international art books and journals. It also organises artist book-based shows at Kunsthall Oslo.

Acne Studios ArchiveFASHION & ACCESSORIES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22 60 93 00; www.acnestudios.com; Markveien 60; h11am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat & Sun; jSchous plass)

The Swedish super-label has a handful of beautiful shops throughout Oslo, but this is the pick if you're after a bargain, with deep discounts on last year's stock. It's also worth a peek just for the beautiful photo murals of sculptor Gustav Vigeland's old studio.

Fransk BazaarVINTAGE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.franskbazar.no; Grünersgate 5; hnoon-6pm Wed-Sat, 1-5pm Sun; jOlaf Ryes plass)

A local Francophile haunt run by a friendly Franco-Norwegian couple. Pour over the soulful French vintage homewares, objects and clothing in this delightfully jumbled and attractive shopfront.

HaslaJEWELLERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %922 78 777; http://hasla.no; Markveien 54; h11am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat; jSchous plass)

Norwegian silversmiths handcraft simple designs inspired by nature as well as classic Scandinavian modern pieces.

Foto.noPHOTOGRAPHY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %46 46 24 24; http://foto.no; Dronning Eufemias gate 12; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat; jBjørvika)

A beautifully designed camera store with not only extensive new stock but also secondhand equipment. There is a lounge area for photography chat, casual lessons and trying out the merchandise.

VinmonopoletWINE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.vinmonopolet.no; Nordre gate 16; h10am-6pm Mon-Thu, 9am-6pm Fri, 9am-3pm Sat; jSchous plass)

This branch of the state wine and spirit chain has a good selection of French, Italian and Spanish wines, including well-priced French wine in plastic screw-cap bottles, excellent for picnicking by the river. Note: you must be least 20 years old to purchase, and there are usually long queues on Friday and Saturday afternoons.

Glasmagasinet Department StoreDEPARTMENT STORE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.glasmagasinet.no; Stortorvet 9; h10am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat; jStortorvet)

This iconic city department store dates back to 1899 and has a good range of Scandinavian brands you know you want.

Hassan og Den DamaFASHION & ACCESSORIES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://dendama.com; Skovveien 4; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat; jSolli)

A Skovveien stalwart, this shop has clothing, shoes and jewellery produced by Scandinavian and international designers.

Marita StiftelsenVINTAGE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22 38 19 20; http://marita.no; Markveien 67; h11am-5pm; jBiermanns gate)

Heaven for those who like to rummage for treasures, this bric-a-brac charity shop has shelves packed with vintage china, old lamps, glassware and coffee pots, with a smaller section upstairs for books and records.

Norway DesignsFASHION & ACCESSORIES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.norwaydesigns.no; Stortingsgata 28; h10am-6pm Mon-Wed & Fri, to 7pm Thu, to 4pm Sat; jNationaltheatret)

Features designer clothing and beautiful glassware, stationery and watches within a stone's throw of the National Theatre.

Grønland BazaarSHOPPING CENTRE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Tøyengata 2; h10am-8pm Mon-Sat; g37)

A mostly Middle Eastern shopping centre, with a food court.

Tanum BookshopCULTURAL CENTRE

(Litteraturhuset; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %23 69 10 80; http://litteraturhuset.no/no/huset/bokhandel/; Wergelandsveien 29; h11am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat, noon-4pm Sun; g17B)

Litteraturhuset's well-stocked bookshop is testament to the vibrancy of Norwegian publishing; it's a great place to pick up beautiful local children's books too.

NorliBOOKS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.norli.no; Universitetsgata 20-24; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat; jNationaltheatret)

The largest bookshop in Norway stocks a good range of foreign-language titles as well as numerous travel guides and maps.

8Getting There & Away

Oslo is well linked to other European countries by air, with a usual flying time of two hours from London or Paris, and a little shorter from Berlin; flights from Stockholm and Copenhagen are less than an hour. There are also regular bus and rail services to Oslo from neighbouring Sweden, with a three- to four-hour journey to Gothenburg. Regular car and passenger ferries also connect the city's ports with Denmark, Sweden and Germany.

Flights, cars and tours can be booked online at www.lonelyplanet.com/bookings.

Air

Oslo Gardermoen International Airport

Oslo Gardermoen International Airport ( GOOGLE MAP ; https://avinor.no/flyplass/oslo), the city's main airport, is 50km north of the city. It's used by international carriers, including Norwegian, SAS, Air France and British Airways. It's one of the world's most beautiful airports and has an amazing selection of places to eat and drink as well as Norwegian design shops alongside standard airport shopping.

Torp International Airport

Some budget flights, including those run by SAS Braathens, Widerøe and Ryanair, operate from Torp International Airport (www.trop.no) in Sandefjord, some 123km southwest of Oslo. Check carefully which airport your flight is going to. It has limited but good restaurants and bars and extensive parking facilities.

Boat

Ferries operated by DFDS Seaways ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.dfdsseaways.com; Vippetangen 2; g60) connect Oslo daily with Denmark from the Vippetangen Quay ( GOOGLE MAP ) off Skippergata. Bus 60 stops within a couple of minutes' walk of the terminal.

In the summer Color Line Ferries ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.colorline.no; Color Line Terminalen, Hjortnes; g33) run daily to/from Kiel (Germany); boats dock at Hjortneskaia, west of the central harbour. Take tram 13 from Oslo S, bus 33 or the Color Line bus, which leaves from platform 7 of the central bus terminal one hour before boat departures.

Bus

Long-distance buses arrive and depart from the Galleri Oslo Bus Terminal ( GOOGLE MAP ; %23 00 24 00; Schweigaards gate 8; YSentralstasjon). The train and bus stations are linked via a convenient overhead walkway for easy connections.

Nor-Way Bussekspress (%81 54 44 44; www.nor-way.no) provides timetables and bookings. International services also depart from the bus terminal. Destinations include the following:

Bergen (522kr, 11 hours, three daily)

Stavanger (802kr, seven hours, usually one daily) Via Kristiansand.

Car & Motorcycle

The main highways into the city are the E6 from the north and south, and the E18 from the southeast and west. Each time you enter Oslo, you must pass through (at least) one of 19 toll stations and pay the 33kr toll.

Train

All trains arrive and depart from Oslo S in the city centre. It has reservation desks ( GOOGLE MAP ; Jernbanetorget 1; h6.30am-11pm; jSentralstasjon) and an information desk ( GOOGLE MAP ; %81 50 08 88; Jernbanetorget 1; jSentralstasjon) that provides details on routes and timetables throughout Norway.

There are frequent train services around Oslofjord (eg Drammen, Skien, Moss, Fredrikstad and Halden). Other major destinations:

Destination	Cost (kr)	Time (hr)	Frequency (daily)
Bergen via Voss	950	6½-7½	four
Røros via Hamar	810	5	every 2hr
Stavanger via Kristiansand	997	7¾	six
Trondheim via Hamar & Lillehammer	965	6½-7½	six

8Getting Around

All public transport is covered off by the Ruter (https://ruter.no/en/) ticketing system; schedules and route maps are available online or at Trafikanten ( GOOGLE MAP ; %177; www.ruter.no; Jernbanetorget; h7am-8pm Mon-Fri, 8am-6pm Sat & Sun).

Tram Oslo's tram network is extensive and runs 24 hours.

T-bane The six-line Tunnelbanen underground system, better known as the T-bane, is faster and extends further from the city centre than most city buses or tram lines.

Train Suburban trains and services to the Oslofjord where the T-bane doesn't reach.

TICKETS & PASSES

AIn addition to single-trip tickets, one-day and transferable eight-trip tickets are also available.

AChildren aged four to 16 and seniors over 67 years of age pay half-price on all fares.

AYou can download an app to buy tickets, although it doesn't always accept foreign credit cards.

AThe Oslo Pass includes access to all public-transport options within the city, with the exception of late-night buses and trams, and most ferries around Oslofjord (including Ferry 91 to Bygdøy).

Bicycle

Oslo City Bike (%915 89 700; https://oslobysykkel.no) gives you unlimited rides of 45-minute duration over 24 hours, three days or the whole season (45/99/299kr) from bicycle stands around the city. You can buy a pass via the website and your smartphone, via its app or by getting a pin from the website. The bikes are convenient and well maintained but are only available from 6am to midnight and only in the 'ice-free' season (generally from April to December).

Boat

Ferries to the Oslofjord islands sail from Vippetangen Quay. Ferry 91 ( GOOGLE MAP ; %23 35 68 90; on board adult/child 50/25kr, from kiosks on departure jetty adult/child 30/15kr, with Oslo Pass free) to Bygdøy (March to October only) leaves from Rådhusbrygge Quay ( GOOGLE MAP ).

Boat 62 connects Oslo with Drøbak (90kr, 1¼ hours, 10am weekdays, 10am and 3pm weekends) and other Oslofjord stops en route, including Håøya (45 minutes), a holiday spot offering fine swimming and camping. It departs from Aker Brygge Pier ( GOOGLE MAP ).

A good number of the inner-island ferries are covered by the Ruter network too.

Bus

Bus and tram lines lace the city and extend into the suburbs. There's no central, local bus station, but most buses converge at Jernbanetorget in front of Oslo S. Most westbound buses, including those to Bygdøy and Vigeland Park, also stop immediately south of the National Theatre.

Service frequency drops dramatically at night, but on weekends the night buses N12, N14 and N18 follow the tram routes until 4am or later; there are also weekend night buses (201 to 218).

Ruter tickets for trips in zone 1 (most of the city centre) cost adult/child 33/17kr if bought from a sales point in advance (ticket machine, 7-Eleven, Narvesen and Trafikanten), or 55/28kr if bought on board. A day pass costs 90/45kr and a seven-day pass 240/120kr.

Oslo Pass holders can travel for free on all daytime lines in the city centre.

Car & Motorcycle

Oslo has its share of one-way streets, and is introducing no parking zones within the city centre, which can complicate city driving. That said, the streets are rarely as congested as in most European cities.

Metered street parking, identified by a solid blue sign with a white 'P', can be found throughout the city. Payment is usually required from 8am to 5pm Monday to Friday, and until 3pm Saturday. At other times parking is free unless otherwise posted. The city centre also has 16 multistorey car parks, including those at Oslo City and Aker Brygge shopping centres. Parking fees in a public car park cost between 250kr and 290kr per 24-hour period, depending on the car park.

Note that the Oslo Pass includes parking at all municipal car parks; instructions for display come with the pass.

Taxi

There are taxi stands at Oslo S, shopping centres and city squares, but any taxi with a lit sign is available for hire. Otherwise, phone Norgestaxi (%08000; www.norgestaxi.no) or Oslo Taxi (%02323; www.oslotaxi.no), but note that the meter starts running at the point of dispatch and they are definitely not cheap. Oslo Taxis accept major credit cards.

T-Bane

All T-bane lines pass through the Nationaltheatret, Stortinget and Jernbanetorget (for Oslo S) stations. Ruter tickets for trips in zone 1 (most of the city centre) cost adult/child 33/167kr if bought in advance (from T-bane ticket machines, 7-Elevens, Narvesen and Trafikanten).

Oslofjord & Østfold

The beautiful Oslofjord, the northernmost part of the Skagerrak strait, stretches south from Oslo, and is dotted with picturesque towns and islands, while the eastern region of Østfold is a mix of forest, pastoral farmland and small seaside villages that carry great historical significance. It's an area that's popular with holidaying Norwegians, but is rarely visited by other travellers unless on the way to Sweden.

Oslofjord & Østfold

1Sights

1BøkeskogenA1

2BølgenA1

3DamvannA4

4Fredriksten Fortress & MuseumsD5

5Henrik IbsenmuseetA4

6Herregården Manor HouseA1

7KaupangB5

8Kirkøy Stone ChurchC5

9MølenA5

10Oscarsborg FortressC3

11Porsgrund PorselænsfabrikkA5

12Rød HerregårdD5

13Royal Silver MinesA3

14Southern ActorB5

15Tønsberg CastleA3

16TusenFrydC3

17Vestfold County MuseumA3

18Whaling MuseumB5

2Activities, Courses & Tours

19Coastal WalkB2

Farris BadA1

20KnutefjellA3

Royal Silver Mines Rope-and-Torch TourA3

4Sleeping

21Clarion Collection Hotel AtlanticB5

22Farris BadA1

Fredriksten CampingD5

23Hotel Kong CarlB5

25Kilden GårdA4

27Lysko GjestegaardA1

28Max Kro & CampingA3

29Thon Hotel BryggaA4

30Thon Hotel HøyersA4

31Tønsberg HostelA3

5Eating

32Georg Marius LarsenA1

Kongens BryggeD5

33PakkhusetA1

34Restaurant HavarietA4

SandenA1

35Smak av StavernA5

Drøbak

Pop 11,510

Once Oslo's winter harbour, Drøbak is a cosy little village by the water's edge, home to enough clapboard timber buildings to warrant a happy day trip from the capital.

1Sights

Oscarsborg FortressFORTRESS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.oscarsborgfestning.no)F

Don't miss the imposing Oscarsborg Fortress, which lies on an offshore island and dates back to the 1600s. It was the Oscarsborg batteries that sank the German warship Blücher on 9 April 1940, an act that saved the king and the Norwegian government from being captured, and which is dramatically depicted in the film The King's Choice. Ferries ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.oscarsborgfestning.no; adult/child 105/65kr) to the island depart every five minutes or so from Sundbrygga on the harbour in summer and less frequently the rest of the year.

8Getting There & Away

The hourly bus 541 travels between Oslo and Drøbak. Alternatively, in July you can travel by boat.

WORTH A TRIP

HVALER SKERRIES

Norwegian holidaymakers and artists love the Hvaler skerries, an offshore archipelago of 833 forested islands and islets guarding the southern entrance to Oslofjord. The main islands of Vesterøy, Spjærøy, Asmaløy and Kirkøy are connected to the mainland by a toll road (59kr) and tunnel. Bus 365 (72kr) runs all the way from Fredrikstad to Skjærhalden, at the far end of Kirkøy.

Gamlebyen tourist office can point you in the direction of the numerous sights dotted around the islands. There are a couple of other seasonal tourist offices scattered around the islands.

Above the coastline of Akerøy island, accessible only by ferry (taxi boat) from Skjærhalden, clings a well-preserved 17th-century coastal fortress, renovated in the 1960s. Admission is free and it's always open.

The mid-11th-century stone church ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Skjærhalden, Kirkøy; hnoon-4pm Jul, noon-4pm Sat late Jun & early Aug) on Kirkøy is one of the oldest in Norway.

Tourist offices have lists of fully equipped private houses and chalets in the Hvaler skerries, which are available for between 450kr and 800kr per day.

Fredrikstad

Pop 80,200

Fredrikstad is home to one of the best-preserved, and prettiest, fortress towns in Scandinavia: the Gamlebyen (Old Town), with the modern waterfront district just across the water. Fredrikstad was once an important trading centre between mainland Europe and western Scandinavia.

Fredrikstad

1Top Sights

1GamlebyenC4

1Sights

2CathedralB2

3IsegranB4

4Isegran RuinsB4

5Kongsten FestningD5

4Sleeping

6Fredrikstad Motell & CampingD4

7Hotel VictoriaB3

8Quality Hotel FredrikstadA1

5Eating

9Majoren's Stue og KroC4

10Riviera FusionA1

1Sights

oGamlebyenOLD TOWN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

The timbered houses, moats, gates and drawbridge of the Fredrikstad Gamlebyen are simply enchanting. The perimeter walls, once defended by 200 cannons, now consist of grassy embankments that make for a very pleasant stroll. The narrow, cobbled streets have been similarly preserved and are still lined with picturesque 17th-century buildings, many of which remain occupied today.

CathedralCATHEDRAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %69 95 98 00; Riddervoldsgate 5)

Fredrikstad's 1880 cathedral reflects the town's 19th-century importance with its stained-glass work by Emanuel Vigeland. Norwegian practicality combines here with its piousness: bizarrely, the steeple contains a lighthouse, which still functions at night.

IsegranISLAND

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.isegran.no; with Fredrikstad Museum adult/child 75/30kr; hnoon-4pm Fri-Sun mid-Jun–late Aug)

Norse sagas mention the 13th-century fortress of Isegran, an islet in the Glomma that became a further line of defence against Sweden in the mid-17th century. The ruins ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) of a stone tower are visible at the eastern end of the island. It's also the site of a small museum on local boat building (from the time when boats were lovingly handcrafted from wood).

By road or on foot, access is from Rv108, about 600m south of Fredrikstad city centre.

Kongsten FestningFORT

(Kongsten Fort; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %479 77 795; http://ostfoldmuseene.no; Blakstads gate)

On what was once called 'Gallows Hill' stands the flower-festooned Kongsten Festning. Dating from 1685, it once served as a lookout and warning post for the troops at nearby Gamlebyen. Although it can get overrun on summer weekends, this otherwise lonely and appealingly intact is a fun place at which to scramble around the turrets, embankments, walls and stockade, or just sit in the sun and soak up the quiet.

zFestivals & Events

Glomma FestivalMUSIC, FOOD

(www.glommafestivalen.no)

The Glomma Festival runs in late June or early July. It's dedicated to culinary delights and musical performances, ritual duels, a 'bathtub regatta' for creative vessels, and a veteran-sailing-ship exhibition. It's a very popular festival, so book ahead for accommodation.

4Sleeping & Eating

Fredrikstad Motell & CampingCAMPGROUND$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %69 32 03 15; www.fredrikstadmotel.no; Torsnesveien 16-18, Sarpsborg; campsite with/without car 250/200kr, motel s/d 450/550kr, cabins 900-1300kr; pW)

This comfortable if rather unscenic place is in the grounds of Kongsten Festning and most notable for its proximity to the Old Town. In summer there's a buffet breakfast for 90kr per person. From the centre, take any bus (eg 362) headed for Torsnes.

Hotel VictoriaHISTORIC HOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %69 38 58 36; www.hotelvictoria.no; Turngaten 3, New Town; s/d 1195/1295kr; W)

The common areas of this century-old hotel are full of period trimmings and the rooms are plushed-up and cosy. Go for one with a pretty balcony and views to the trees and flowers of the neighbouring park. The staff are exceptionally helpful and friendly.

Quality Hotel FredrikstadHOTEL$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %69 39 30 00; www.qualityinn.com; Nygata 2-6, New Town; s/d from 1330/1490kr; W)

The business traveller's choice has super-smart, if rather functional, rooms enlivened by photographic art. Service is spot on and it couldn't be any more central.

Majoren's Stue og KroNORWEGIAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %69 32 15 55; www.majoren.no; Voldportgata 73, Gamlebyen; mains 165-199kr; hnoon-8pm Mon-Thu, to 9pm Fri & Sat, to 7pm Sun)

This rustic place specialises in Norwegian dishes cooked in a slow, old-fashioned manner that seems almost bang on trend again, along with more standard burgers and fish and chips, served either in the formal dining room or the back garden. An attached bar, with its own smart bar menu, is open for a few hours after the kitchen stops serving.

Riviera FusionASIAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %69 33 86 88; Storgata 13, Engelsviken, New Town; mains 125-215kr; h11am-10pm Mon-Thu, 11am-midnight Fri & Sat, noon-10pm Sun)

This contemporary Asian-fusion place (think stir-frys, tempura and Thai curries alongside steaks and Italian seafood grills rather than actual fusion dishes) is set in a historic shopfront and has a summer terrace overlooking the waterfront.

8Information

The helpful Gamlebyen tourist office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %69 30 46 00; www.visitoslofjord.no; Kongens Torv; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat, 11am-4pm Sun) is open year-round.

8Getting There & Away

Intercity buses arrive and depart from the Fredrikstad Rutebilstasjon at the train station. There are regular Flybussekspressen (www.flybussekspressen.no) services from Fredrikstad to Oslo Gardermoen International Airport (307kr, 2¼ hours, every hour or two).

Fredrikstad lies on the NSB (www.nsb.no) rail line between Oslo and Göteborg. Trains to/from Oslo (221kr, one hour) run about 10 times daily, and also go to Sarpsborg and Halden, but note that southbound international trains require a mandatory seat reservation.

Drivers should follow the E6 south out of Oslo. Just after Råde, turn south on the 110 and follow it to Fredrikstad.

Halden

Pop 30,550

The soporific but sweet border town of Halden, at the end of Iddefjord between steep rocky headlands, possesses a hugely significant history as a cornerstone of Norwegian defence through centuries of Swedish aggression. With a pretty little harbour filled with yachts, a looming fortress rising up behind the town and a sprinkling of decent restaurants, this place makes a worthwhile detour.

1Sights

Fredriksten Fortress & MuseumsFORTRESS

(Fredriksten Festning; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.fredrikstenfestning.com; fortress free, adult/child all museums 60/20kr, guided tour 70/30kr; hfortress 24hr, museums 11am-5pm daily mid-May–Aug, guided tours 2pm year-round)

Crowning the hilltop behind Halden is the 1661 Fredriksten Fortress, which has resisted six Swedish sieges and never been captured. The fortress covers a large area, much of which is grassy expanses and tumble-down walls, but there are a couple of interesting museums, a restored cobbled street and great views. The whole place is brought entertainingly to life through the guided tours.

Rød HerregårdHISTORIC BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Herregårdsveien 10; tours adult/child 60/20kr; htours noon, 1pm & 2pm Mon-Sat, noon, 1pm, 2pm & 3pm Sun mid-Jun–mid-Aug, noon, 1pm & 2pm Sun May–mid-Jun & mid-Aug–Sep)

Dating from at least 1690, Rød Herregård manor has fine interiors, which include notable collections of both weapons and art, as well as the mounted heads of many specimens of local wildlife. The formal gardens are some of the most pleasant in Norway. It's 1.5km northwest of the town centre and is well signposted.

4Sleeping & Eating

Fredriksten CampingCAMPGROUND$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %69 18 40 32; Fredriksten Festning; tent with car 275kr, 4-/5-bed cabins 490/790kr; p)

A great location amid the trees and adjacent to the fortress makes this well-run place a winner. It also offers minigolf and, after the fortress closes and the crowds disappear, a quiet green spot to pitch a tent. There's an on-site restaurant selling various fried things.

Grand HotellHISTORIC HOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %69 18 72 00; www.grandhotell.net; Jernbanetorget 1; r from 1310kr; pW)

The Grand Hotell, opposite the train station, is the oldest hotel in town and has a slightly forced old-world feel, but it's otherwise a very comfortable base.

oFredriksten HotelHISTORIC HOTEL$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %69 02 10 10; www.fredrikstenhotell.no; Generalveien 25-27; s/d 1090/1545kr; pW)

A historic hotel with a very smart, contemporary style that has the best view in town. As well as its usual double and single rooms there are good number of family and six-bed rooms.

Kongens BryggePIZZA$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %69 17 80 60; Gjesthavn; mains 135-190kr, pizzas 145-255kr; h1-11pm Sun-Tue & Thu, 1pm-2.30am Wed, noon-2.30am Fri & Sat)

Right on the waterfront, this place has a cruisy atmosphere and a wonderful pontoon terrace that's open in summer. The pizzas are expensive, but come in quite generous portions and are bound to fill hungry travellers. There are several similar places nearby.

8Information

The Halden tourist office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %69 19 09 80; www.visithalden.com; Kongens Brygge 3; h9am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat & Sun mid-Jun–mid-Aug, 9am-3.30pm Mon-Fri rest of year), just off Torget, has some useful information.

8Getting There & Away

Trains between Oslo and Halden (272kr, 1¾ hours) via Fredrikstad run hourly from Monday to Friday and every two hours on weekends. An average of four trains daily continue on to Göteborg and Malmö in Sweden. The long-distance bus terminal sits right on the harbour.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

NIGHTLIFE HOT SPOTS

Grünerløkka & Vulkan

AGE LIMITS & DRESS CODES

Sofienberg, Grønland & Tøyen

St Olafs Plass, Bislett & St Hanshaugen

WHAT'S ON

Central Oslo

Grünerløkka & Vulkan

Sofienberg, Grønland & Tøyen

TICKETS & PASSES

Oslofjord & Østfold

Drøbak

WORTH A TRIP

HVALER SKERRIES

Fredrikstad

Halden