Nordland

Why Go?

For those with a love of all things Arctic, this is where Norway really starts to get interesting. Heading northwards through long, slim Nordland, lush fields give way to lakes and forests, vistas open up, summits sharpen and the treeline descends ever lower on the mountainsides. Above the imaginary curve of the Arctic Circle, travellers get their first taste of the midnight sun in summer, while in winter, the Northern Lights dance across the night sky.

Linger along the spectacular Kystriksveien Coastal Route. Or travel the inland Arctic Highway: more direct, yet almost as lovely. And then there's Lofoten, where razor-sharp peaks stab at the sky and timeless fishing villages survive. Connected by bridges, the islands are easy to hop around, cycling is possible and hiking is as gentle or as tough as you care to make it.

When to Go

Late Mar Take in Lofoten and then Svolvær's World Cod Fishing Championship.
Late May–mid-July Midnight sun on Lofoten and elsewhere and good weather for activities.
Nov–Jan Long nights and good chances to see the Northern Lights.

Best Places to Eat

A Fiskekrogen

A Børsen

A Anitas Sjømat

A Krambua

A Umami

Best Places to Stay

A Svinøya Rorbuer

A Henningsvær Bryggehotel

A Lofoten Suite Hotel

A Lovund RorbuHotell

A Fru Haugans Hotel

A Hotell Marena

Nordland Highlights

1 Kystriksveien Coastal Route Driving along one of the most beautiful coastlines in the world from Sandnessjøen to Storvik.

2 Lofoten ferry Taking the ferry from Skutvik to Svolvær, one of the world's great ferry journeys.

3 Nusfjord Returning to the postcard-perfect fishing past of Lofoten in this lovely village.

4 Vega Experiencing the eider-duck economy and leaving the clamour of the modern world behind in Unesco-recognised Vega.

5 Å Lingering in the tiny, preserved fishing village that lies in Lofoten's deep south.

6 Nyksund Discovering the blissful isolation of this reborn village, then hiking the coastal Queen's Route to Stø in Vesterålen.

7 Andenes Taking to the seas to look for whales and puffins then driving west-coast Andøya.

8 Saltfjellet-Svartisen National Park Getting cold feet on one of the glaciers in this spectacular park.

Arctic Highway

The Arctic Highway – the interior's main thoroughfare between Norway's north and south, and more prosaically known as the E6 – cops something of a bad rap. Comparing it to the jaw-droppingly beautiful coastal Kystriksveien, it invariably comes up short. And yet it's all relative. Yes, the Arctic Highway has more traffic and is the faster route between north and south. But by any measure this passage from one Norway to another is a beautiful road, taking you within sight of some of northern Norway's prettiest scenery and crossing the Arctic Circle in the process. If you plan on travelling both directions during your visit, make sure you take this road on one of them.

WORTH A TRIP

A DETOUR VIA HATTEN

For drivers, a lovely detour that bypasses Mosjøen follows the wild, scenic Villmarksveien route, which runs parallel to the E6 east of the town and approaches the bizarre 1128m peak of Hatten (or Hattfjell). From the end of the nearest road, the hike to the top takes about two hours.

Mosjøen

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When arriving in Mosjøen (moo-sher-en), along the E6, you may be put off by the industrial face of this aluminium-producing town, especially if you're coming from the north. Don't be. Along the shore of Vefsnfjorden, historic Sjøgata and a street or two nearby are among the most charming in northern Norway and merit a browse. The steep-walled mountain across the fjord provides a stunning backdrop.

1Sights

oSjøgataHISTORIC SITE

( GOOGLE MAP )

A stroll around the Sjøgata area, with over 100 listed buildings, takes you past galleries, coffee shops, restaurants and private homes in attractively renovated former warehouses, workshops and boat sheds. The History of a Town, available at the museum and tourist office, is an excellent small booklet that brings Mosjøen's history to life.

Vefsn MuseumMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; adult/child 50kr/free; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat & Sun)

The Vefsn Museum is split over two sites. In Sjøgata, the Jakobsensbrygga Warehouse ( GOOGLE MAP ; Sjøgata 31b; admission with ticket for Vefsn Museum; h10am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat Jun-Aug, shorter hours rest of year) is an excellent small museum that portrays, via some particularly evocative photo enlargements, the history of Mosjøen from the early 19th century onwards. Northeast of the centre, the rural building collection ( GOOGLE MAP ; Bygdesamlinga; admission with ticket for Vefsn Museum; h10am-3pm Mon-Fri, 11am-3pm Sat & Sun mid-Jun–mid-Aug, shorter hours rest of year) features 12 farmhouses, shops and the like from the 18th and 19th centuries, which you can view from the exterior. Both have helpful pamphlet guides in English.

TTours

Guided Walking ToursWALKING

( GOOGLE MAP ; adult/child 50kr/free; h10am Jul)

Every morning in July, head for the northeastern corner of the Fru Haugans Hotel garden for a guided walking tour (in English and Norwegian) along Sjøgata. It lasts for 45 minutes to one hour.

WORTH A TRIP

CHEESE FARM

The working dairy farm of Strandli Gård ( GOOGLE MAP ; %472 37 246; www.strandligard.no; Fv273; hby appointment) is a charming excursion off the E6. In addition to selling lovely cheeses and yoghurts produced on the farm, it also has accommodation and the warmest of welcomes.

4Sleeping

Mosjøen CampingCAMPGROUND$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %75 17 79 00; www.mosjoencamping.no; Campingvegen 1; tent/caravan sites 180/255kr, 4-person cabin from 650-1350kr; s)

Beside the E6 about 500m southeast of the town centre, this campground tends to be overcrowded with travellers doing the North Cape rush. There's a pool with water slide, snack bar, children's playground – even tenpin bowling. In this land of superlatives, the sole urinal in the men's toilet must rank as Norway's, if not the world's, highest.

KulturverkstedetGUESTHOUSE$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %75 17 27 60; www.kulturverkstedet.net; r 1100-1600kr)

By the same people who brought you Café Kulturverkstedet, these five guesthouses scattered along Sjøgata can be wonderfully atmospheric places to stay. The decor is, in most cases, delightfully retro and hence won't be to everyone's taste – take the time to go through the pictures on the website to find a style that suits. Reception is at the cafe.

oFru Haugans HotelHOTEL$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %75 11 41 00; www.fruhaugans.no; Strandgata 39; s/d 1250/1650kr; iW)

Don't be deterred by the bland facade that somehow slipped past planning authorities. Fru Haugans (the original owner; see her stare from her portrait in the lounge beside Ellenstuen restaurant) is northern Norway's oldest hotel. Dating in part from 1794, its rooms range from old world to simple and modern. They're all good deals and the location couldn't be better.

5Eating

Cafe UmamiCAFE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %461 89 840; Sjøgata 35; mains 74-183kr; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat)

Sandwiches, open and otherwise, a mean hot chicken soup and some creative salads make up the menu here. This fine choice has smooth contemporary decor within the antique shell of an old Sjøgata building – an alternative to the prevailing wooden tables and frilly curtains elsewhere along this street. In summer it sometimes opens 11am to 3pm on Sundays.

oGilles Cafe & MusikkCAFE, NORWEGIAN$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %75 17 54 54; www.gilles.no; Sjøgata 6; mains 145-245kr; h8am-11pm Mon-Fri, 10am-11pm Sat)

This excellent place near the northern end of Sjøgata serves up snacks such as scampi tempura, pizzas and more traditional mains – it does a great fish soup. This is also the liveliest place in town, with live music at 9pm most nights in summer, less often the rest of the year. It even organises occasional mountaintop concerts just outside town.

Café KulturverkstedetCAFE$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %75 17 27 60; www.kulturverkstedet.net; Sjøgata 22-24; mains from 125kr; h8am-4pm Mon-Sat)

Run by the local heritage society, this delightful cafe enjoys, appropriately, one of Sjøgata's largest renovated buildings. There are books to leaf through and you can sip and nibble in its interconnecting art gallery.

oEllenstuenNORWEGIAN$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %75 11 41 00; Strandgata 39; mains 255-365kr; h6-11pm)

Ellenstuen, in Fru Haugans Hotel, is an intimate place that preserves many of the hotel's original fittings. It has a particularly creative menu (if you're in luck, you'll find roasted stag fillet and lightly smoked grouse breast in a raspberry sauce on offer).

8Information

Tourist office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %75 01 80 00; www.visithelgeland.com; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat & Sun mid-Jun–early Aug, 10am-4pm Mon-Fri rest of Aug, 10am-3pm Mon-Fri rest of year) At the northern end of Sjøgata.

8Getting There & Away

Widerøe (www.wideroe.no) has flights to Bodø (via Mo i Rana) and Trondheim.

Buses run from Mosjøen to Brønnøysund (325kr, three hours, once or twice daily except Saturday) and Sandnessjøen (215kr, 1¾ hours, three to five daily except Saturday). There are also services to/from Mo i Rana (190kr, 1¾ hours, two to four daily), but the train takes less time.

Mosjøen lies on the rail line between Trondheim (817kr, 5½ hours, two to three daily), Fauske (577kr, 3½ hours, three daily) and Bodø (675kr; 4¼ hours, three daily).

WORTH A TRIP

NAMSSKOGAN FAMILIEPARK

A long way from anywhere – it's 40km south of Namsskogan, which is, in turn, 125km south of Mosjøen along the Arctic Highway – the Namsskogan Familiepark is a great way to break up the long journey north. Home to an impressive array of Arctic wildlife – highlights include Arctic fox, reindeer, elk, brown bear, wolverine, wolf and Eurasian lynx – it's a spacious, well-run place with plenty of activities for kids, among them trampolines, climbing frame, a flying fox, toboggan and horse riding.

Check its website or call ahead to book close encounters with a select few creatures such as the Arctic fox, reindeer or moose.

Mo i Rana

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Mo i Rana (just plain Mo to those who know it well) is the third-largest city in the north and gateway to the spruce forests, caves and glaciers of the Arctic Circle region. Its friendly reputation is often attributed to its rapid expansion due to the construction of the now-closed steel plant, which in its time employed more than 1000 workers; nearly everyone here once knew how it felt to be a stranger in town. It's not Norway's prettiest town, but there are a few reasons to break up the journey.

Mo i Rana

1Sights

1Havmannen StatueA2

4Sleeping

2Fjordgaarden MoA3

3Meyergården HotellB1

5Eating

4AbeloneB3

SøilenB1

1Sights

Havmannen StatueSTATUE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

Havmannen (Man of the Sea), a sculpture forever up to his knees in water, turns his back on the town and gazes resolutely out over the fjord. His clean lines and rounded profile are the work of iconic British sculptor Antony Gormley.

4Sleeping

StålkameratøneHOSTEL$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %419 26 215; Stålbrakka, Søderlundmyra; dm 300kr, s/d with shared bathroom 450/700kr; hmid-Jun–mid-Aug; piW)

Mo's biggest bargain is just off the first left bend of the E6, heading northwards. This hostel has four plainly furnished single rooms, occupied by students during the school year, an eight-bed dorm and a couple of doubles.

oFjordgaarden MoHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %75 12 10 50; www.fjordgaarden.no; Søndre gate 5; hs/d from 790/940kr)

Handy for the train station, close to the water and really rather stylish as well, Fjordgaarden Mo has simple rooms and the newer ones have appealing photo walls. The prices are surprisingly good, making it a good all-round package.

Meyergården HotellHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %75 13 40 00; www.meyergarden.no; Fridtjof Nansens gate 28; r 915-1595kr; piW)

An affiliate of the Scandic chain, Mo's longest-established hotel is full of character, with fine rooms, most of them recently refurbished and with a slick, contemporary look.

5Eating

AbeloneSCANDINAVIAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %75 15 38 88; www.facebook.com/abelonemoirana; Ole Tobias Olsens gate 6; mains 124-231kr; h1-11pm)

Abelone is your best dining option outside the hotels. It looks unprepossessing from the street, but once inside the cosy simulated log cabin makes for a congenial dining environment. Opt for one of its quality meat dishes such as oven-baked lamb. It also has kebabs, fish and a few Greek dishes.

SøilenBISTRO$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %75 13 40 00; Fridtjof Nansens gate 28; mains lunch 145-165kr, dinner 145-365kr; h1-11pm Mon-Sat, to 10pm Sun)

The highly regarded Arctic Menu restaurant of Meyergården Hotell gets its meat, dairy products and even honey from local sources. Save a corner for its signature caramel pudding with whipped cream.

8Information

Tourist office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %75 01 80 00; www.arctic-circle.no; Ole Tobias Olsens gate 3; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat & Sun late Jun-early Aug, shorter hours rest of year) Has free internet access.

8Getting There & Away

Mo i Rana's Røssvoll airport, 14km northeast of town, has flights to/from Bodø and Trondheim. You'll enjoy an excellent panorama of the Svartisen icecaps unless it's misty down below.

By bus ( GOOGLE MAP ), options are fairly limited. There are one to three daily services to/from both Sandnessjøen (340kr, 2¾ hours, one to three services daily) and Mosjøen (190kr, 1¾ hours, two to four daily). At least one Länstrafiken (www.tabussen.nu) bus runs daily between Mo i Rana's bus station and Umeå (eight hours) and other destinations in Sweden.

Most visitors arrive at Mo i Rana's attractive octagonal train station ( GOOGLE MAP ; %75 15 01 77; www.nsb.no), from where trains run to the following destinations:

Destination	Cost (kr)	Time (hr)	Frequency (per day)
Bodø	507	3	3
Fauske	395	2¼	3
Mosjøen	218	1½	4
Trondheim	908	7½	3

Saltfjellet-Svartisen National Park

The 2102-sq-km Saltfjellet-Svartisen National Park ( GOOGLE MAP ) is one of mainland Norway's most dramatic landforms. In the west, it embraces the rugged peaks of the Svartisen icecap, Norway's second-largest glacier, and glacier tongues are visible from the Kystriksveien Coastal Route, north of the ferry crossing of Forøy. To the east, the bleak, high moorlands of the Saltfjellet massif roll to the Swedish border. Charismatic wildlife also inhabit the park, including wolverine, Eurasian lynx, elk and a breeding population of Arctic fox, although most are elusive.

Northbound travellers on the Hurtigruten coastal ferry can visit the Svartisen glacier as an optional add-on to their journey.

1Sights

PolarsirkelsenteretLANDMARK

( GOOGLE MAP ; %75 12 96 96; www.polarsirkelsenteret.no; optional film adult/child 80/40kr; h10am-8pm Jun-Aug, to 6pm May)

Latitude 66°33' N marks the southernmost extent of the midnight sun on the summer solstice and the ragged edge of the polar night on the winter solstice. Where the Arctic Highway between Mo i Rana and Fauske cuts across this imaginary line, in a high, broad valley that remains snowbound for much of the year, the Polarsirkelsenteret (Arctic Circle Centre) occupies a lovely natural setting.

2Activities

Svartisen

The two Svartisen icecaps, separated by the valley Vesterdalen, straddle the Arctic Circle between Mo i Rana and the Meløy peninsula. At its thickest, the ice is around 600m deep. The average height is about 1500m but some tongues lick down into the valleys and are the lowest-lying glaciers in mainland Europe. You can experience Svartisen from either its eastern or more spectacular western side. Most visitors to either side just make a quick hop by boat, but hikers will find more joy approaching from the east.

Østisen, the eastern glacier, is more accessible from Mo. From the end of the Svartisdalen road, 20km up the valley from Mo i Rana's airport, ferries ( GOOGLE MAP ; adult/child return 170/60kr; hmid-Jun–Aug) cross Svartisen lake (Svartisvatnet) four times daily. From the ferry landing, it's a 3km hike to the beginning of the Austerdalsisen glacier tongue. There's a kiosk and campground at the lake.

From the end of the road you can also trek up to the hut on the shore of the mountain lake Pikhaugsvatnet, which is surrounded by peaks and ice. This is an excellent base for day hikes up the Glomdal valley or to the Flatisen glacier.

Saltfjellet

The broad upland plateaus of the Saltfjellet massif transcend the Arctic Circle, connecting the peaks surrounding the Svartisen icecap and the Swedish border. Within this relatively inhospitable wilderness are traces of several ancient Sami fences and sacrificial sites, some dating from as early as the 9th century.

A 15km walk to the east leads to Graddis, near the Swedish border, and the venerable Graddis Fjellstue og Camping.

By car, access to Saltfjellet is either along the E6 or the Rv77, which follows the southern slope of the Junkerdalen valley. Rail travellers can disembark at Lønsdal en route between Fauske and Trondheim. Check whether you need to request a stop.

TTours

Svartisen MooseWILDLIFE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %465 13 892; www.svartisenmoose.no; moose-watching adult/child 90/50kr, guided tour adult/child 175/90kr; h10am-3pm Jun–mid-Aug, guided tours 10.45am & 2.45pm)

Captive, tame moose (known as elg, or elk in these parts) like if you get up close and personal here. Wander around the enclosures or take a guided tour to get close enough for selfies and, yes, kisses. Kissing a moose is said to make you irresistible, or at least that's what they tell you here. Each to their own.

4Sleeping

Graddis Fjellstue og CampingCAMPGROUND, GUESTHOUSE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %75 69 43 41; graddis@c2i.net; s/d from 550/750kr; hmid-Jun–mid-Aug)

This cosy little guesthouse has been run by the same family since its establishment in 1867. It makes an excellent base to launch yourself into one of Norway's least-tramped hiking areas. Camping is also available, and Methuselah, a 1000-year-old pine tree, is a nearby attraction.

8Information

Maps

The best map for trekking is Statens Kartverk's Saltfjellet at 1:100,000.

Tourist Information

Svartisen Tourist Information ( GOOGLE MAP ; %416 30 365; www.visitmeloy.no; Rv 17, Holand; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri Jun–mid-Aug) Seasonal tourist office with good information on the national park. It's in the hamlet of Holand, 14km east of the ferry dock at Forøy and 25km southwest of Glomfjord.

8Getting There & Away

For the most part, you'll need your own vehicle to get really close to the park boundaries. On the west side, any transport along the Rv17 can drop you at the boat port, north of the vehicle crossing at Forøy.

Fauske

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Most travellers on the way north end up passing through Fauske – it's the Arctic Highway gateway for Bodø (for Lofoten), Sulitjelma and Rago National Park – although it has few charms of its own beyond that of a crossroads. Few linger longer than it takes to fill up on petrol or change buses or trains.

WORTH A TRIP

RAGO NATIONAL PARK

The small (171-sq-km), scarcely visited Rago National Park ( GOOGLE MAP ) is a rugged chunk of forested granite mountain and moorland, riven with deep glacial cracks and capped by great icefields. Rago, together with the large adjoining Swedish parks, Pakjelanta, Sarek and Stora Sjöfjallet, belongs to a wider protected area of 5500 sq km. Wildlife includes elk (moose) as well as wolverines in the higher areas. Along the relatively lush Storskogdalen valley, a series of foaming cascades and spectacular waterfalls tumble.

1Sights

Fauske is known for its fine marble. Its Norwegian Rose stone features in many a monumental building, including the Oslo Rådhus, the UN headquarters in New York and the Emperor's palace in Tokyo. Suitably, its main attraction is the marble-themed town square.

Check out the park-like collection of historic buildings of the Fauske branch of the Salten Museum ( GOOGLE MAP ; %75 50 35 00; Sjøgata; adult/child 60/10kr; h11am-5pm mid-Jun–mid-Aug, to 3pm Mon-Fri rest of year), whose grounds are a lovely spot for a picnic.

4Sleeping

Lundhøgda Camping og MotellCAMPGROUND$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %97 53 98 94; www.lundhogdacamping.no; Lundveien 62; car/caravan sites 100/200kr, d/q cabin 600/800kr, s/d 500/600kr; hMay-Sep)

This complex, 3km west of town, has superb views of the fjord and surrounding peaks. Accommodation is nothing special, but it's all about the location here.

oFauske HotellHOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %75 60 20 00; www.fauskehotell.no; Storgaten 82; d 890-1140kr; W)

Fauske's only year-round upmarket choice has recently renovated rooms with splashes of colour and contemporary art. There's a good restaurant, occasional live music and a bar that's surprisingly lively for a hotel bar.

8Information

Tourist Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %75 50 35 15; www.visitbodo.com; Sjøgata; h11am-6pm Mon-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat, noon-6pm Sun mid-Jun–mid-Aug) This seasonal office shares its premises with the Salten Museum in the heart of town.

8Getting There & Away

Bus

Buses run to/from Bodø (105kr; 1½ hours, three to six daily) and Narvik (315kr, 5½ hours, two daily).

Train

Trains ply the Nordlandsbanen between Trondheim (1052kr, 9½ hours) and Bodø (138kr, 45 minutes), via Fauske, twice daily and there are additional trains (up to four daily) between Fauske and Bodø. As always booking online may reap huge savings on the ticket price. To continue further northwards, you've no option but to hop on a bus.

WORTH A TRIP

HAMSUNSENTERET

Around halfway between the E6 and the ferry crossing to/from the Lofoten Islands at Skutvik, along the Rv81, the Hamsunsenteret ( GOOGLE MAP ; %75 50 34 50; www.hamsunsenteret.no; Presteid, Hamarøy; adult/child 100/50kr; h10am-6pm Jun–mid-Aug, 10am-3.30pm Tue-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat & Sun rest of year, closed Jan) is a must for anyone with a vaguely literary bent. The daring architecture is one of northern Norway's most striking examples of contemporary design, while the museum commemorates the life of Knut Hamsun, who won the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1920. The museum covers his life and work with well-presented displays and helpful staff keen to promote Hamsun's works.

Narvik

Pop 18,787

Narvik has a double personality. On the one hand, its location is spectacular, pincered by islands to the west and mountains in every other direction, while spectacular fjords stretch north and south. At the same time, heavy industry casts a pall of ugliness over the rather scruffy downtown area – the town was founded in 1902 as the port for the coal-mining town of Kiruna in Swedish Lapland and the trans-shipment facility bisecting the city still loads several million tonnes of ore annually from train wagons on to ships.

But Narvik's appeal lies elsewhere, with unique sporting and sightseeing activities offered by its majestic surroundings and the spectacular Ofotbanen Railway to Sweden.

NARVIK, ORE & WAR

During WWII control of this strategic port was essential to the Nazi war machine, intent upon halting iron supplies to the Allies and usurping the bounty. In April 1940, 10 German destroyers ploughed through a blizzard to enter the port and sink two Norwegian battleships. The next day five British destroyers arrived and a fierce naval battle resulted in the loss of two ships on each side. In May, British, Norwegian, French and Polish troops disembarked and took back the town.

The Nazis, however, didn't retreat and the town was decimated, as evidenced by the remains of soldiers in the cemeteries and 34 ships of five nations (Norway, Britain, France, the Netherlands and Germany) in the harbour. On 8 June 1940 the Allies surrendered Narvik, which remained under German control until 8 May 1945.

All along the E6 in both directions from Narvik, signs to 'Narvik 1940' indicate roadside memorials and information boards on key moments in the battle for Narvik and the march of Norwegian General Carl Gustav Fleischer in a bid to recapture the town.

1Sights

Red Cross War MuseumMUSEUM

(Krigsminnemuseum; GOOGLE MAP ; %76 94 44 26; www.warmuseum.no; Kongens gate; adult/child 100/50kr; h10am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat, noon-6pm Sun mid-Jun–mid-Aug, 10am-4pm Mon-Sat & noon-4pm Sun rest of year)

This small but revealing museum illustrates the military campaigns fought hereabouts in the early years of WWII. The presentation may not be flash but it will still move you. Pick up a folder that explains each of the museum's sections.

2Activities

oNarvikfjelletCABLE CAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; %905 40 888; www.narvikfjellet.no; Mårveien; adult one way/return 120/180kr, child under 7yr free; h1pm-1am Jun–mid-Jul, 1-8pm mid-Jul–mid-Aug, shorter hours rest of year)

Climbing 656m above town, this cable car offers breathtaking views over surrounding peaks and fjords – even as far as Lofoten on a clear day. Several marked walking trails radiate from its top station or you can bounce down a signed mountain-bike route. From February to April, it will whisk you up high for trail, off-piste and cross-country skiing with outstanding views.

It's a popular place to watch the midnight sun.

If you're keen to go even higher, ask about its guided hikes that climb above the top station (adult 645kr, under 15 years 445kr). There's also a climbing park (adult/child 250/200kr) that's loads of fun.

Ofotbanen RailwayRAIL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %76 92 31 21; www.nsb.no/en/our-destinations/our-regional-railway-lines/ofotenrailway; one way adult/child 160kr/free)

The spectacular mountain-hugging Ofotbanen Railway trundles beside fjordside cliffs, birch forests and rocky plateaus as it climbs to the Swedish border. The route from Narvik to Riksgränsen, the ski resort just inside Sweden, features some 50 tunnels and snow sheds. Towards the Narvik end, you might make out the wreck of the German ship Georg Thiele at the edge of the fjord.

You can run the line as a day or half-day trip, leaving Narvik at 10.26am. The 11.39pm return train from Riksgränsen allows time for coffee and a quick browse or you can walk a trail in this stunning alpine country and catch the 4.02pm back to Narvik. For the best views, sit on the left side heading from Narvik.

The railway, which opened in 1903, was constructed by migrant labourers at the end of the 19th century to connect Narvik with the iron-ore mines at Kiruna, in Sweden's far north. Currently it transports around 15 million tonnes of iron ore annually and is a major magnet for visitors.

In Sweden, several long-distance trails radiate out from the railway, including the world-renowned Kungsleden, which heads south from Abisko into the heart of Sweden.

The Narvik tourist office organises guided trips (per person 900kr).

Narvik GolfklubbGOLF

( GOOGLE MAP ; %971 46 082; www.narvikgolf.no; all-day/9-hole pass 400/250kr)

The fjord-side journey to this unique golf course at Skjomendalen is wondrous (follow the signs to Skjomdal just before the Skjomen bridge on the E6, about 18km south of town). Sheer, treacherous faces will leave you guessing how there could possibly be a golf course here. Yet nature works wonders, and there's a valley hidden amid the peaks. Worthwhile hiking is nearby.

Narvik og Omegns TuristforeningHIKING

(NOT; Narvik Trekking Association; %915 52 908, 402 40 987; www.turistforeningen.no/narvik)

Narvik og Omegns Turistforening is an excellent source of information about hiking. It maintains more than 15 cabins, mostly between Narvik and the Swedish border. Collect keys from the tourist office against a deposit of 150kr.

DON'T MISS

RALLAVEIEN

The Rallarveien is a popular hike that parallels the Ofotbanen Railway, following an old navvy (railway worker) trail. Few walkers attempt the entire way between Abisko National Park and the sea, opting instead to begin at Riksgränsen or Bjørnfell, the next station west. It's an undemanding descent as far as Katterat, from where you can take the evening train to Narvik.

For more exertion, drop down to Rombaksbotn at the head of the fjord and site of the main camp when the railway was being built (it's since returned to nature). From here, a boat (adult/child 345/140kr) runs erratically to Narvik in summer. Check with the tourist office to avoid an unwelcome supplementary 10km trek at the end of the day.

zFestivals & Events

VinterfestukaMUSIC, FESTIVAL

(%76 95 03 50; www.vinterfestuka.no; hMar)

Each year during March, Narvik holds its Vinterfestuka, an action-packed winter week of events, partly in commemoration of the navvies who built the railway.

4Sleeping

Narvik CampingCAMPGROUND$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %76 94 58 10; www.narvikcamping.com; Rombaksveien 75; tent/caravan sites 150/250kr, 2-bed cabin 450kr, 4-/6-bed cabin with bathroom 800/1000kr)

Sound sleep is not guaranteed for those under canvas at what's otherwise a perfectly adequate campground, overlooking the fjord and E6, 2km northeast of the centre and Narvik's only choice. Trucks rumble along the highway and long wagon trains clank by on the railway, just above.

oBreidablikk GjestehusGUESTHOUSE$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %76 94 14 18; www.breidablikk.no; Tore Hunds gate 41; dm 350kr, s 600-1150kr, d 1195-1750kr; piW)

It's a steep but worthwhile walk from the centre to this pleasant hillside guesthouse with rooms for all budgets and sweeping views over the town and fjord. There's a cosy communal lounge and dorms have six beds.

Scandic Hotel NarvikHOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %76 96 14 00; www.scandichotels.no/hotell/norge/narvik; Kongens gate 33; d 895-1495kr; W)

Towering over the downtown area, this striking glass edifice houses Narvik's most stylish hotel. Rooms are slick and contemporary and those on the upper floors have fabulous views. There's also a fine restaurant and 16th-floor bar.

5Eating

Arild's GrillbarFAST FOOD$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %76 94 56 00; Torgsvingen 9; mains 60-180kr; h11am-11pm Mon-Fri, noon-11pm Fri & Sat)

Fast food is ubiquitous in Norway, but if you're on a tight budget and can't face another petrol-station hot dog, this place does simple things well. Pizza, burgers, salads and sit-down tables make this a good solid option. It's at the bottom of the steps, next to the fish market.

FiskekrokenCAFE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %76 94 36 60; Kongens gate 42; mains 80-190kr; hnoon-6pm Tue-Thu, 1-9pm Fri & Sat)

This tiny cafe, offshoot of the adjacent fish shop, offers tasty ready-to-eat dishes, such as fish cakes and fish and chips to eat in or take away. The fish couldn't be fresher.

KafferietINTERNATIONAL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %76 96 00 55; Dronningensgate 47; light meals 109-179kr, mains 159-309kr; h10.30am-1.30am Tue-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat)

Narvik's slickest venue is a stylish, modern place with outdoor tables that tumble down the steps. Pasta, fish and grilled meats dominate an extensive if largely unimaginative menu, while it turns into a bar and nightclub once the kitchen closes.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Tøtta BarCOCKTAIL BAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; 16th fl, Kongens gate 33, Scandic Hotel Narvik; h11am-1am Mon-Fri, 11am-2am Sat, 6pm-1am Sun)

Encased in glass on the 16th floor of the Scandic Hotel Narvik, this classy cocktail bar has fabulous views and is not just for those staying at the hotel.

8Information

In the centre of town, the tourist office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %76 96 56 00; www.destinationnarvik.com; Kongens gate 41-43; h10am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat & Sun mid-Jun–mid-Aug, 10am-4pm Mon-Sat & noon-4pm Sun rest of year) holds Narvik og Omegns Turistforening cabin keys (150kr deposit), has free wi-fi and rents out bikes (250kr per day).

8Getting There & Away

Air

Nearly all flights leave from Harstad-Narvik Evenes airport, 1¼ hours away by road. Narvik's tiny Framneslia airport, about 3km west of the centre, serves only Bodø, Tromsø and Andenes.

Bus

Express buses run from the bus station ( GOOGLE MAP ) northwards to Tromsø (280kr, 4¼ hours, three daily) and south to Bodø (325kr, 6½ hours, two daily) via Fauske (315kr, 5½ hours, two daily). For Lofoten, two Lofotekspressen buses run daily between Narvik and Svolvær (from 280kr, 4¼ hours) and continue to Å.

Between late June and early September, bus 91 runs twice a day up the E10 to Riksgränsen (45 minutes) in Sweden and on to Abisko and Kiruna (three hours).

Train

Heading for Sweden, there are two daily services between Narvik and Riksgränsen (one hour) on the border, and Kiruna (three hours). Trains continue to Lulea (7¼ hours) via Boden, from where you can pick up connections to Stockholm. The route takes you up the spectacular Ofotbanen Railway and, in Sweden, past Abisko National Park, which offers excellent hiking and lovely Arctic scenery.

Kystriksveien – The Coastal Route

Welcome to one of Europe's most spectacular drives. Longer, yes, more expensive, yes (gosh, those ferry tolls mount up). But if you've even a day or two to spare, divert from the Arctic Highway and enjoy the empty roads and solitary splendours of Kystriksveien, the coastal alternative that follows the coast for 650km. If the whole route seems daunting, it's quite possible to cut in or out from Steinkjer, Bodø or, midway, Mosjøen and Mo i Rana. It's one to drive; don't even attempt it by bus or you'll still be waiting when the first snows fall.

Off the coast are around 14,000 islands, some little more than rocks with a few tufts of grass; others, such as Vega, supporting whole communities that for centuries have survived on coastal fishing and subsistence agriculture – they're wonderfully rewarding detours in their own right.

KYSTRIKSVEIEN PLANNING RESOURCES

The splendid free Kystriksveien (Coastal Route) booklet, distributed by tourist offices and many lodgings along the way, is a mini-Bible. Its website (www.visitnorway.no/reisemal/trondelag/kystriksveien) gives even more detail. For greater depth, invest in The Coastal Road: A Travel Guide to Kystriksveien (298kr) by Olav Breen.

Click on the website's links to Cycle Touring for a recommended 12-day bike-and-ferry journey along the full length of the Kystriksveien. The free brochures Cycling from Steinkjer to Leka or Exploring the Islands by Bicycle have detailed maps, and list highlights and bicycle-friendly accommodation.

For a budget approach to the notoriously expensive route, visit www.backpacker17.com.

Brønnøysund

Pop 5037

The small coastal settlement of Brønnøysund is flanked on one side by an archipelago of islets and on the other by rolling farm country. It's one of the prettier settings for a town of this size along the southern end of the Kystriksveien, and worth visiting for the views alone.

1Sights

oTorghattenMOUNTAIN

( GOOGLE MAP )

A dramatic local landmark rears up from Torget island, some 15km south of Brønnøysund. The peak, pierced by a hole 160m long, 35m high and 20m wide, is accessed from its base by a good 20-minute walking track. The best perspective of the gap is from the southbound Hurtigruten coastal ferry as it rounds the island.

Hildurs UrterariumGARDENS

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.urterariet.com; Tilrem; adult/child 60kr/free; hnoon-5pm mid-Jun–mid-Aug)

Around 400 types of herb, 100 varieties of rose and 1000 species of cactus flourish at Hilde's Herb Garden, about 6km north of Brønnøysund; the team also produces their own wine. There are some rustic old farm buildings, a small art gallery and a shop that carries locally grown products. The garden also makes a lovely stop for lunch.

TTours

This one's a real winner. The tourist office sells tickets for a spectacular minicruise on the Hurtigruten. Leaving at 5pm, the coastal ferry passes Torghatten on its way south to Rørvik in Trøndelag – allowing an hour to explore the town and visit its splendid Norveg Centre for Coastal Culture and Industries before you hop aboard the northbound ferry to reach Brønnøysund again at 1am. Prices vary with the seasons and availability.

4Sleeping

Torghatten CampingCAMPGROUND$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %75 02 54 95; www.visittorghatten.no; tent/caravan sites 250/280kr, cabins 1500-1950kr)

This lovely option with its small beach beside a constructed lake is great for children. Around 10km southwest of Brønnøysund, it's handy for an ascent of the Torghatten peak.

Thon Hotel BrønnøysundHOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %75 00 89 00; www.thonhotels.no/bronnoysund; Sømnaveien 98; r from 1245kr; pW)

Modern rooms, good breakfasts and sweeping views from the upper floors make this local outpost of the reliable Thon chain the best place to stay in town.

5Eating

oLokalmatbutikkenDELI, CAFE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %469 17 271; www.lokalmatbutikken.no; Storgata 68; snacks & light meals from 80kr; h11am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat)

This gem of a place is both grocery store and delicatessen selling locally produced food products (think cheeses, spices and craft beers), and a fine little cafe where you can sample the local produce. On Friday and Saturday evenings, it even opens 7pm to 11pm to showcase its craft beers.

oRestaurant SagastuaNORWEGIAN$$$

(Hildurs Urterarium; GOOGLE MAP ; %75 02 52 12; www.hildurs.no/restaurant; Tilrem; lunch main without/with dessert 195/295kr, 2-/3-course meal from 375/495kr; h1-5pm)

Exquisite tastes, professional service and artful presentation make this one of the best places to eat in this part of the country. The fish dishes are particularly memorable but the steaks, too, are perfectly cooked. The menu changes with the seasons.

8Information

Tourist Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %75 01 80 00; www.visithelgeland.com; Sømnaveien 92; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat & Sun mid-Jun–mid-Aug, shorter hours Mon-Fri & closed Sat & Sun rest of year) One block from the Hurtigruten quay. It rents bicycles (200kr per day).

8Getting There & Away

Widerøe (www.wideroe.no) flies to Brønnøysund from Trondheim, Oslo and Bergen; the most common approach route passes right over Torghatten and the azure seas that lap around it.

Up to three buses run between Brønnøysund and Sandnessjøen (340kr, three hours, daily except Sunday) and to/from Mosjøen (325kr, three hours, once or twice daily except Saturday).

Brønnøysund is also a port for the Hurtigruten coastal ferry.

Vega

Pop 900

The island of Vega remains a very Norwegian destination (we have been the only non-nationals on our numerous ferry journeys to and from the islands). It and the more than 6500 skerries (islets) and simply large rocks that form the Vega archipelago are a Unesco World Heritage Site. This distinction comes not for any grand building or monument, nor for the scenery (which is stunning, nevertheless). It's for human endeavour, recognising that the archipelago reflects the way generations of fisherfolk and farmers have, over the past 1500 years, maintained a sustainable living in an inhospitable seascape. This lifestyle is based on the now unique practice of eiderdown harvesting, undertaken mostly by women. For more on these very special ducks and their down, visit the splendid little E-huset museum or visit www.verdensarvvega.no.

1Sights

oE-husetMUSEUM

(E-house; GOOGLE MAP ; %75 11 01 00, 984 20 584; www.facebook.com/pg/ehuset/about; adult/child 60kr/free; hnoon-4pm Jun–mid-Sep)

In the tiny fishing hamlet of Nes, this delightful, engagingly informative small museum celebrates the eider duck and the way the birds were nurtured as domestic pets, when they returned – each one to its very same nesting box – after their winter migration. The E-house occupies a former trading post, which still retains its original counter and row upon row of goods that your great-grandparents used to buy.

2Activities

Birdwatchers have special reason to make the journey through the Vega Archipelago. The archipelago is home to 228 recorded species, and it is an extremely important winter area for sea birds. The barnacle geese for which Svalbard is famous spend a period resting here on their way north for the summer, while the largest breeding colony of cormorants breeds on one of the westernmost skerries.

4Sleeping

Vega CampingCAMPGROUND$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %943 50 080; www.vegacamping.no; Floa; car/caravan sites 175/210kr, cabins 600-850kr; hyear-round)

The close-cropped green grass extending to the still water's edge make this simple campground one of the prettiest in Norway. You can rent a boat or bike (350/175kr per day) or go for a trot at the adjacent horse-riding school.

oVega HavhotellHOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %75 03 64 00; www.havhotellene.no; Viksås; s/d/ste 1290/1390/1790kr; hclosed Oct & Mon Nov-Mar)

This isolated getaway at Vega's secluded northern limit is tranquillity itself (you won't find a radio or TV in any of its 21 impeccably turned-out rooms). It's a place to unwind, go for breezy coastal strolls or simply watch the mother eider duck and her chicks pottering. It also has an excellent restaurant and Anna and Jon are lovely hosts.

7Shopping

oUtværet LånenHOMEWARES, ACCESSORIES

(%452 72 654; www.lanen.no; Lånen)

In the Vega Archipelago, on the island of Lånen around 30km northwest of the main Vega island, Utværet Lånen sells mittens, pillows, duvets and other products filled with eiderdown – both exceptionally warm and smooth as silk. If you can't make it out to the islands themselves, it is also possible to shop online.

8Information

Tourist Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %75 03 53 88; www.visitvega.no; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-3.30pm Sat & Sun mid-Jun–mid-Aug, 8.30am-3.30pm rest of year) In Gladstad, the island's largest hamlet.

8Getting There & Away

Express boats make the trip to/from both Brønnøysund and Sandnessjøen, while car ferries cross to Vega from the mainland at Horn and Tjøtta.

Sandnessjøen

Pop 5930

Quiet little Sandnessjøen is a boom town in waiting – oil has been discovered offshore and big changes are expected here. Until this change comes, this is a slightly scruffy little coastal settlement where life revolves around the fishing port and the pedestrianised Torolv Kveldulvsons gate, one block from the harbour.

The main attractions are the imposing Syv Søstre (Seven Sisters) range, south of town.

1Sights

oPetter Dass MuseumMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %75 11 01 50; www.petterdass.no; off Fv17, Alstahaug; adult/child 85kr/free; h10am-6pm daily mid-Jun–mid-Aug, 10am-3.30pm Tue-Fri & 11am-5pm Sat & Sun rest of year)

Even if you've never heard of the medieval Norwegian poet Petter Dass (1647–1707), don't miss this stunning museum at Alstahaug south of Sandnessjøen. Dass lived here for the last 18 years of his life and the museum is at once an avant-garde architectural showpiece and a fascinating insight into Dass's life and work.

2Activities

The tourist office can suggest walks in the Syv Søstre (Seven Sisters) range, reached most conveniently via the Rv17 at Breimo or Sørra, about 4km south of town. From there you'll need to walk a couple of kilometres to the trailhead at the mountains' base. You can also get a taxi (%75 04 02 12) to the base. Trails are blazed with red dots and the tourist office can provide simple maps and basic route descriptions, but pack Alstahaug, a reliable map at 1:50,000. As a security precaution (the weather can dramatically change with little warning in these parts), let the tourist office know when and where you're going.

Hardy hikers can reach all seven summits (ranging from 910m to 1072m) in a day. Every several years there's a competition that takes in all the peaks – the record is three hours, 54 minutes, although most mortals should count on 15 to 20 hours as a minimum. The climb to Botnkrona (1072m), the highest of the peaks, takes most hikers of reasonable fitness three to four hours one way, while count on two to three hours to climb each of the other peaks (also one way).

Sign your name in the book at each summit, fill in a control card and leave it at the tourist office – in return, you'll receive a diploma in the mail.

Another possibility is the ascent of Dønnmannen (858m), an 8km-return hike that is rated as challenging and is for serious hikers only. The trails start at Hagen, on the island across the water from Sandnessjøen to the west. The tourist office in Sandnessjøen has route descriptions and can provide ferry timetables.

WORTH A TRIP

KYSTRIKSVEIEN FROM SANDNESSJØEN TO STORVIK

Superlatives come thick and fast along this stretch of coastline, and if you do only one segment of the coastal highway, make it the length between Sandnessjøen and the improbable sandy beach at Storvik, 100km south of Bodø. Much of this is a National Tourist Route, a designation awarded only to the most scenic of Norway's scenic roads. With three ferry crossings and ample reasons to stop and stare, it's a long day (especially if you're keen to reach Bodø by dinner time), but one you'll never forget as the road bucks and weaves between the ocean and mountains whose summits remain flecked with snow even into summer.

The pick of the views from the southern end comes as the road climbs after the Låvong–Nesna ferry crossing. Further on, as the road nears Mo i Rana, it's a dramatic run in its own right alongside pretty Ranafjord to Stokkvågen, soon after which you can roam around the Nazi coastal fort of Grønsvik, one of more than 350 defences built along Norway's coastline. Around 1km beyond the fort, a lookout offers more stunning views.

The route crosses the Arctic Circle somewhere along the hour-long Kilboghamn–Jektvik ferry crossing (the ferry captain usually makes an announcement – watch for the silver globe on the eastern shore). The further north you go, the more spectacular the views, from the snowbound mountains of the Svartisen ice sheet to islands, islets and skerries too numerous to count. Along the way, sea eagles circle above you and spring wildflowers show off their best in the relatively mild climate, warmed by the very last of the Gulf Stream's flow. For long stretches the highway rolls right beside the water.

The best views of Svartisen come after the Ågskardet–Forøy ferry, with dramatic views of the glacier tongues dropping down off the icefields towards the water from the road alongside Holandsfjorden.

To get even closer, a ferry ( GOOGLE MAP ; %95 92 03 27; www.engenbreenskyss.no; adult/child return 170/60kr) makes the 10-minute trip across Holandsfjorden from the small settlement of Holand roughly hourly. You can hire a bike (three/six hours 75/100kr) to travel the 3km gravel track between the jetty and the tip of the Engebreen glacial tongue.

A 15-minute walk from the ferry landing takes you to a seasonal information centre with cafe, shop and restaurant. It does guided one- to two-hour glacier walks (600kr) and longer four- to five-hour treks (1100kr) from the end of Engabrevatnet lake. Reserve in advance. You can also slog independently up the steep route along the glacier's edge to the Tåkeheimen hut (1171m), near the summit of Helgelandsbukken (1454m). Follow the 'T' markers and allow eight hours out and back. The Turistsenter can also advise on cabin accommodation in the area.

If you've time to spare, consider breaking the journey at Furøy Camping ( GOOGLE MAP ; %75 75 05 25; www.furoycamp.no; Forøy; tent/caravan site 180/220kr, cabin 500-950kr). Aside from the magnificent views of the Svartisen glacier across the fjord, this place has a five-star kids' playground (with trampoline and minicabins). It's barely 1km from the Ågskardet–Føroy ferry terminal, but do reserve your cabin in advance; a trail of vehicles heads from the ferry towards reception in summer.

4Sleeping

Sandnessjøen CampingCAMPGROUND$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %975 62 050; www.ssj.no; Fv17; tents/caravans 150/250kr, cabins 600-1200kr)

Some 10km south of Sandnessjøen is a well-run place with fabulous views, as well as the usual campsites and simple cabins.

oScandic Syv SøstreHOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %75 06 50 00; www.scandichotels.no; Torolv Kveldulvsons gate 16; d from 1350kr; W)

This large hotel close to the Hurtigruten ferry terminal offers all the comfort you'd expect from a member of the Scandic chain, with splashes of style in the rooms, excellent breakfasts and fine views from most rooms.

Leinesodden CabinsCABIN$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.sandnessjoenovernatting.no; off Fv17; cabin per night/week 1200/6000kr)

Run by Sandnessjøen but a far more imaginative choice, especially for families or groups, are its Leinesodden Cabins, across the water and a 10-minute drive from town. They sleep five to 10 people, are tastefully furnished and have a wonderful sense of isolation.

Clarion Collection Hotel KystenHOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %465 06 935; www.nordicchoicehotels.no; Havnegata 4; d from 1295kr; W)

This fabulous hotel overlooks the waterfront with stylish rooms with contemporary decor (think bold wallpaper, big mirrors and creative lighting). The breakfast is a cut above average and a light but excellent evening buffet meal is included in the rate.

5Eating & Drinking

Restaurante SopranoITALIAN$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %407 00 006; www.restaurant-soprano.no; Torolv Kveldulvsons gate 33; mains 149-289kr; hnoon-10pm Mon-Thu, noon-11pm Fri & Sat, 2-10pm Sun)

A good alternative to the hotel restaurants, the Soprano is nothing special but it does serve authentic Italian pasta and pizza dishes. It's a slight cut above most other restaurants of its kind in Norway. For lunch try the manicotti – pieces of crêpes filled with meat sauce and topped with baked cheese.

ScandinavieCAFE$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %970 11 132; Torolv Kveldulvsons gate 43; mains 80-165kr; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat)

In an attractive mustard-yellow wooden building that stands out as one of the prettiest in the downtown area, Scandinavie serves up sandwiches, baguettes, soup and salads, as well as a handful of other light meals. The white-wood tables and lacy curtains add a certain old-world charm.

Onkel OskarBAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; %75 04 18 88; www.onkeloskar.no; Torolv Kveldulvsons gate 40; h8pm-1am Mon-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat)

With a wonderful old fireplace and an antique air, this place has semi-regular pub quizzes and is a surprisingly cool place for provincial little Sandnessjøen. And we love its motto: 'Alcohol may be man's worst enemy, but the Bible says love your enemy.' Says it all really.

8Information

Tourist Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %75 01 80 00; www.visithelgeland.com; Torolv Kveldulvsons gate 10; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat & Sun mid-Jun–mid-Aug, 10am-3pm Mon-Fri rest of year) In the heart of town; an excellent resource for the entire Helgeland region.

8Getting There & Away

Widerøe (www.wideroe.no) has direct flights to Oslo, Bodø, Trondheim, Mo i Rana and Mosjøen.

Bus destinations from Sandnessjøen include Brønnøysund (340kr, three hours, daily except Sunday), Mosjøen (215kr, 1¾ hours, three to five daily except Saturday) and Mo i Rana (340kr, 2¾ hours, one to three services daily).

The Hurtigruten coastal ferry pulls in twice a day, while ferries also go from here to Brønnøysund, Træna and Vega – the tourist office has the latest timetables.

FERRIES FROM SANDNESSJØEN TO STORVIK

The long day's drive from Sandnessjøen to Bodø is slowed down considerably by the three ferry crossings you'll need to make. Timetables are available from most tourist offices along the way, including at both Sandnessjøen and Bodø. Remember that, even in the height of summer, most ferry crossings happen no more frequently than once an hour, all of which can mean a lot of waiting time if you don't plan carefully. A good resource for many ferry crossings is www.torghatten-nord.no. The three crossings are as follows:

Levang–Nesna (passenger/car 42/85kr, 20 minutes).

Jetvik–Kilboghamn (passenger/car 65/206kr, 70 minutes to two hours).

Forøy–Ågskardet (passenger/car 33/79kr, 15 minutes).

Træna

Træna is an archipelago of more than 1000 small, flat skerries, only five of which are inhabited. Of these, head for Husøy, which has most of Træna's population and lodgings, and the adjacent island of Sanna. This drop in the ocean is just over 1km long with a miniature mountain range running the length of its spine and culminating at the northern end in the 318m spire, Trænstaven. The recurring feeling out here is one of standing on Norway's quiet outer reaches, with your back to Europe and having stumbled on a place that time forgot.

zFestivals & Events

TrænafestivalenMUSIC

(www.trena.net; hJul)

Every year Træna hosts what must be one of Europe's more remote music festivals. That notwithstanding, Norwegian and international acts turn up and the festival is a wonderful way to spend four days.

4Sleeping

Træna GjestegårdGUESTHOUSE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %75 09 52 28; www.trænagjestegård.com; Burmaveien; r per person 500kr)

Rooms are as simple as they come but they're the cheapest in the archipelago and the owners cook up some terrific food for lunch and dinner.

Træna RorbuferieGUESTHOUSE$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %979 83 276; www.rorbuferien.no; r 1050-1300kr)

These lovely, wooden, ochre-hued rorbuer (fisher's cabins) have fine views, simple furnishings and a blissful sense of isolation. Each one has a kitchen but meals can also be arranged.

8Getting There & Away

Express passenger boats connecting Træna with Bodø, Sandnessjøen and Mo i Rana run one or two times daily. Ferries from the mainland dock on Husøy.

Lovund

Lovund is a dramatic, starkly beautiful island covering just 47 hectares, with a handful of red wooden houses huddled against the Atlantic elements beneath a towering rocky outcrop that rises 623m above the sea. Prolific bird colonies roost here, and every 14 April the island (home to barely 250 people) celebrates Lundkommardag, the day 200,000 puffins return to nest until mid-August.

4Sleeping

oLovund RorbuHotellHOTEL$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %75 09 20 30; www.lovund.no; Fv406; s/d from 1345/1645kr)

You just don't expect to find a place like this out here. Contemporary (nay, ultra-modern) rooms, some in a sleek modern building, others in more traditional, refurbished old fishing buildings, make this one of the best places to stay anywhere along the coast. The food here is as good as the accommodation.

8Getting There & Away

Ferries connect Lovund to Stokkvågen (two hours) on the mainland up to a couple of times daily. Fares vary depending on whether it's an express or stopping-all-stations service.

Bodø

Pop 50,000

Bodø, the northernmost point of the staggeringly beautiful Kystriksveien Coastal Route and 63km west of Fauske on the Arctic Highway, is the gateway to Norway's true north. It's also the northern terminus of Norway's railway system and a jumping-off point for the Lofoten Islands.

The town centre, rebuilt after being almost completely levelled by WWII bombing, is unexciting architecturally. The city's main charm lies in its backdrop of distant rugged peaks and vast skies. Dramatic islands that support the world's densest concentration of white-tailed sea eagles – not for nothing is Bodø known as the Sea Eagle Capital – dot the seas to the north.

Bodø

1Sights

1NordlandmuseetB3

4Sleeping

2City HotellD2

3Opsahl GjestegårdD2

4Scandic HavetA2

5Skagen HotelB3

6Thon Hotel NordlysA3

5Eating

7BjørkB2

8Bryggeri KaiaA2

9LøvoldsB2

10PaviljongenB2

RoastA2

6Drinking & Nightlife

11Dama Di – Kunst, Kaos & BarB2

12PublicB2

3Entertainment

13Stormen KonserthusetA2

1Sights

Norsk LuftfartsmuseumMUSEUM

(Norwegian Aviation Museum; GOOGLE MAP ; www.luftfartsmuseum.no; Olav V gate; adult/child/family 160/80/450kr; h10am-7pm)

Norway's 10,000-sq-metre aviation museum is huge fun to ramble around if you have a passing interest in flight and aviation history – allow at least half a day. If you're flying into Bodø for real, you'll see that from above, the striking modern grey and smoked-glass main museum building has the shape of an aeroplane propeller. Exhibits include a complete control tower and hands-on demonstrations. In 2016, it opened the excellent, interactive Civil Gallery on the dream of flying.

Bodin KirkeCHURCH

( GOOGLE MAP ; Gamle riksvei 68; h10am-3pm late Jun–mid-Aug)F

The charming little onion-domed stone church, around 3km from downtown, dates from around 1240. The Lutheran Reformation brought about substantial changes to the exterior, including the addition of a tower. A host of lively baroque elements – especially the elaborately carved altar – grace the interior.

NordlandmuseetMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %75 50 35 00; www.nordlandsmuseet.no; Prinsens gate 116; adult/child 60/10kr; h11am-5pm mid-Jun–Aug, 9am-3pm Mon-Fri Sep–mid-Jun)

Recounting the short history of Bodø, this little gem of a museum has a cheerily entertaining and informative 25-minute film with English subtitles on the town's development. Museum highlights include a mock-up of a fisher's rorbu, a section on Sami culture complete with sod hut and ritual drum, regalia relating to the town's fishing heritage and a small hoard of 9th-century Viking treasure that was discovered nearby in 1919.

WORTH A TRIP

KJERRINGØY

It's easy to see why this sleepy peninsula, some 40km north of Bodø, washed by turquoise seas and with a backdrop of soaring granite peaks, is a regular location for Norwegian filmmakers.

Here, the entrepreneurial Zahl family established in the 19th century an important trading station. The trading post (Kjerringøy Handelssted; GOOGLE MAP ; %75 50 35 05; www.nordlandsmuseet.no/kjerringoy_handelssted; Rv 834; adult/child 100/50kr; h11am-5pm late May-late Aug) provided local fishing families with supplies in exchange for their catch. Most of the timber-built structures of this self-contained community have been preserved. The spartan quarters and kitchens of the fishing families contrast with the sumptuous decor of the merchants' housing. There's a 20-minute audiovisual presentation included in the entry price. Admission to the main building is by guided tour.

Bus 10 connects Bodø and Kjerringøy twice daily. In summer it's possible to squeeze in on the same day a return trip that allows a good 2½ hours of browsing time. Check the current timetable at Bodø's tourist office.

Whether by bus or car, the trip includes the 10-minute ferry crossing between Festvåg and Misten. Along the way, you pass the distinctive profile of Landegode Island, the white sandy beaches at Mjelle (whose car park is a 20-minute walk away) and the dramatic peak Steigtind, which rises a few kilometres south of Festvåg.

zFestivals & Events

Nordland Music FestivalMUSIC

(www.musikkfestuka.no; hAug)

Ten days of classical music, jazz and opera in the first half of August. Ask at the tourist office for its 'Musical Views' app, a cool tool whereby you can listen to specially chosen music at some of the city's best viewpoints.

Parken FestivalMUSIC

(www.parkenfestivalen.no; hAug)

An action-packed, twin-staged fiesta of rock, R&B and pop over a weekend in late August. Franz Ferdinand headlined in 2017.

4Sleeping

Bodøsjøen CampingCAMPGROUND$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %75 56 36 80; www.bodocamp.no; Kvernhusveien 1; tent/caravan sites 180/250kr, plus per person 50kr, cabins 300-950kr)

At this waterside campground, 3km from the centre, cabins are particularly well equipped. There's an attractive grassy area with picnic tables exclusively for tent campers. Buses 12 and 23 stop 250m away.

City HotellHOTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %75 52 04 02; www.cityhotellbodo.no; Storgata 39; dm 250kr, s/d from 650/750kr, tw with shared bathroom 695kr; iW)

This hotel has 19 smallish but well-priced standard rooms and plenty of flexibility. Three dorms sleeping three to six cater for backpackers. Beneath the eaves are a couple of very large family rooms and two rooms have a kitchenette.

oSkagen HotelHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %75 51 91 00; www.skagen-hotel.no; Nyholmsgata 11; s/d from 915/1135kr; iW)

Skagen occupies two buildings (one originally a butcher's, though you'd never guess it). Facing each other, they're connected by a passage that burrows beneath the street. Rooms are attractively decorated and a continent away from chain-hotel clones. There's a bar and free afternoon waffles and coffee, and excellent breakfasts. Staff can give advice on a raft of vigorous outdoor activities.

oThon Hotel NordlysHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %75 53 19 00; www.thonhotels.no; Moloveien 14; s/d from 995/1205kr; W)

Arguably Bodø's most stylish hotel, with touches of subtle Scandinavian design throughout, it overlooks the marina and runs a reasonable restaurant. We love the wall-sized photos of the Northern Lights in some rooms.

Opsahl GjestegårdB&B$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %75 52 07 04; post@opsahl-gjestegaard.no; Prinsens gate 131; s/d 1094/1300kr)

On a quiet residential street, this guesthouse has 18 comfortable rooms with decor ranging from flowery to the less florid, and a small bar for guests. It's no cheaper than the larger hotels, but still remains an attractive alternative to hotel life. There are also four apartments with minikitchen.

Scandic HavetHOTEL$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %75 50 38 00; www.scandichotels.no/hotell/norge/bodo/scandic-havet; Tollbugata 5; s/d 1449/1649kr; W)

The Scandic chain's stylish pitch for Bodø's best designer hotel, this place has terrific views over the town and/or water (you can see the Lofoten Islands on a clear day from the western-side rooms). But inadequate plugs near the desk, the absence of minibars and other small but significant failings suggest a slight triumph of style over substance.

5Eating

PaviljongenCAFE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %75 52 01 11; Torget; mains 149-194kr; h10am-11pm Mon-Fri, 1-11pm Sat, noon-11pm Sun)

This great outdoor spot in the main square is the place to down a coffee or one of its three choices of draught beer, and perhaps nibble on an inexpensive lunch while watching the world pass. It serves pasta, fried salmon with couscous and even a hangover burger – very considerate.

oRoastINTERNATIONAL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %75 50 38 35; www.roastfood.no/bodo; Tollbugata 5, 17th fl; mains 189-350kr; h11am-1am Mon-Thu, to 2.30am Fri & Sat, to 5pm Sun)

High above the city on a 17th-floor perch in the Scandic Havet hotel, Roast is true to its name – you could play around with different tastes but you really must order the roast board, with its different meats (ribs, steak…) all beautifully presented. And the views from up here are simply wonderful.

Bryggeri KaiaNORWEGIAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %75 52 58 08; www.bryggerikaia.no; Sjøgata 1; snacks from 150kr, mains 215-335kr; h11am-3.30am Mon-Sat, noon-3.30am Sun)

Bryggeri Kaia is a firm favourite. You can dine well, snack, enjoy its weekday lunch buffet (195kr), its Saturday herring buffet (195kr) or quaff one of its several beers. Enjoy your choice in its large pub-decor interior, on the streetside terrace or, best of all should you find a seat spare, on the verandah overlooking the harbour.

BjørkCAFE$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %75 52 40 40; www.restaurantbjork.no; Storgata 8, 1st fl, Glasshuset; lunch specials 149-179kr, pizzas from 160kr, mains 295-329kr; h10am-10pm Mon-Sat, 3-10pm Sun)

This pleasant place has quickly become a popular haunt, especially of Bodø's younger movers and shakers. It serves a variety of creative snacks, wood-fired pizzas, tapas and sushi, and partly occupies the sealed bridge above the shopping mall's main alley. Its speciality is grilled stockfish served with pea puree, poached egg, bacon butter and aioli potatoes.

LøvoldsCAFE$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.lovold.no; Tollbugata 9; mains 150-180kr; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat)

This popular historic quayside cafeteria, Bodø's oldest eating choice, offers sandwiches, grills and hearty Norwegian fare with quality quayside views at no extra charge.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Dama Di – Kunst, Kaos & BarBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Sjøgata 18; h10pm-3.30am)

With a motto that translates roughly as 'art and chaos bar', Dama Di combines sophistication with an edgy, contemporary feel and eclectic decor. Art exhibitions and a pool table keep the strange juxtapositions going, and its motto – 'ugly coffee and nice people' – is fine as long as you're not here for hot drinks.

PublicBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Sjøgata 12; h8pm-3.30am)

Supersized stills from punk-rock shows line the walls and a life-sized Elvis props up the bar of this minimalist place with its black leather stools. It claims to open every night of the year, but we didn't stop by on 25 December or Good Friday to check.

3Entertainment

Stormen KonserthusetCONCERT VENUE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %75 54 90 00; www.stormen.no/konserthuset; Storgata 1b; hbox office 9am-4pm Mon-Fri, noon-3pm Sat)

Bodø's showpiece new concert hall is one to watch for big-name classical concerts – this is where the Northern Norway Opera & Orchestra (www.noso.no) performs. Guided tours are available on request.

8Information

Tourist Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %75 54 80 00; www.visitbodo.com; Sjøgata 15-17; h9am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun mid-Jun–Aug, 9am-3.30pm Mon-Fri Sep–mid-Jun) Publishes the excellent free Bodø brochure and offers free wi-fi.

8Getting There & Away

Air

From Bodø's airport (www.avinor.no), southwest of the city centre, there are at least 10 daily flights to Oslo, Trondheim and Tromsø. Other destinations in northern Norway include Leknes, Narvik, Harstad and Mo i Rana.

Boat

Bodø is a stop on the Hurtigruten coastal ferry ( GOOGLE MAP ; %97 05 70 30).

Car ferries ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.torghatten-nord.no) sail five to six times daily in summer (less frequently during the rest of the year) between Bodø and Moskenes on Lofoten (car including driver/adult/child 702/196/98kr, three to 3½ hours). If you're taking a car in summer avoid a potential long wait in line by booking in advance (an additional 100kr; online reservation at www.torghatten-nord.no).

Most days, at least one ferry calls in at the southern Lofoten Islands of Røst and Værøy.

There's also a daily express passenger ferry ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.torghatten-nord.no) between Bodø and Svolvær (adult/child 385/198kr, 3¾ hours) once daily.

Bus

From the bus station ( GOOGLE MAP ; %177), buses run to/from Narvik (325kr, 6½ hours) via Fauske (105kr, 1½ hours) twice daily, with extra services to/from Fauske.

Train

Destination	Cost (kr)	Time	Frequency (daily)
Fauske	138	45min	5
Mo i Rana	507	3hr	3
Mosjøen	675	4¼hr	3
Trondheim	1088	9¾hr	2

8Getting Around

Local buses cost 50kr per ride. The tourist office rents out bikes for 230kr per day.

Saltstraumen

Welcome to one of Norway's most unusual natural phenomena. The Saltstraumen Maelstrom is quite the spectacle and worth planning your day around if you're anywhere in the area.

1Sights

Saltstraumen MaelstromNATURAL FEATURE

( GOOGLE MAP )

The Saltstraumen Maelstrom is one of Norway's more unusual natural occurrences, which is guaranteed to occur four times every 24 hours. At the 3km-long, 150m-wide Saltstraumen Strait, the tides cause one fjord to drain into another, creating the equivalent of a maelstrom at sea. The result is a churning, 20-knot watery chaos that shifts over 400 million cu metres of water one way, then the other, every six hours. Being there at the right time involves careful planning.

This maelstrom, claimed to be the world's largest, is actually a kinetic series of smaller whirlpools that form, surge, coalesce, then disperse, and it's an ideal environment for plankton, which in turn attract an abundance of fish and therefore anglers. In spring, you can also see the squawking colonies of gulls that nest on the midstream island of Storholmen.

At its best – which is most of the time – it's an exhilarating spectacle. Should you be unlucky enough to hit an off day, it may recall little more than the water swirling around your bath plug. The experience is more immediate from the shoreline, but for the best views, stand on the arching Saltstraumbrua bridge, overlooking the strait, and watch as the waters swirl like nebulae.

As a general rule, when the tide is coming in from the west, the best views are on the east side of the bridge. When the tide's going out, they're on the west side. Arrive early enough to visit the visitor centre and check which way things are going.

Pick up a tide table in advance from the tourist office in Bodø or elsewhere, or your hotel; none are on display at the site itself.

4Sleeping & Eating

Pluscamp SaltstraumenCAMPGROUND$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %75 58 75 60; Knaplund; tent/caravan site 250/250kr, huts 500-1100kr; p)

A fairly standard rural Norwegian campground sits just north of the visitor centre and short walk uphill from the water's edge.

Saltstraumen HotelHOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %75 50 65 60; www.saltstraumenhotell.no; Fv17; r/cabins from 1295/1500kr; pW)

Right next to the visitor centre and a two-minute walk from the maelstrom viewpoints, this hotel is a decent choice if you don't want to miss the main event or even want to see it twice. Rooms are tidy if unspectacular, but it has a gym and outdoor hot tubs. It also has some self-catering cabins.

oKafe KjelenCAFE$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %936 86 963; www.kafekjelen.no; Ripnesveien 40; mains 115-225kr; h10am-10pm Mon-Sat, noon-8pm Sun)

On a promontory overlooking the maelstrom, this warm and wonderful little cafe is gorgeous. Run by the same family since 1955, it does a simple menu that includes local fish, pastries and real specialities worth trying, such as møsbrømetse (flatbread served with brown cheese, sugar and melted butter). We could spend a whole afternoon here just watching the waters swirl.

8Getting There & Away

Saltstraumen is 30km south of Bodø by road (and much nearer by boat). Ask at Bodø's tourist office for details of the privately run boat excursions/tours that head down here.

There are seven buses daily (two on Saturday and Sunday; one hour) between Bodø and Saltstraumen bridge. If you're driving, allow at least 45 minutes to get here.

Lofoten

You'll never forget your first approach to the Lofoten Islands. The islands spread their tall, craggy physique against the sky like some spiky sea dragon. The beauty of this place is simply staggering.

The main islands, Austvågøy, Vestvågøy, Flakstadøy and Moskenesøy, are separated from the mainland by Vestfjorden, but all are connected by road bridges and tunnels. On each are sheltered bays, sheep pastures and picturesque villages. The vistas and the special quality of the Arctic light have long attracted artists, represented in galleries throughout the islands. One of the best ways to appreciate the view is to follow the E10 road, which runs along the islands from tip to toe, taking just about every detour you have time for en route.

Austvågøy

Pop 9150

Many visitors make their acquaintance with Lofoten on Austvågøy, the northernmost island in the archipelago. It's a pretty enough place with some fascinating attractions, but it's more appealing as a gateway to the archipelago than as a destination in its own right.

Svolvær

Pop 4598

The port town of Svolvær is as busy as it gets in Lofoten. The town once sprawled across a series of skerries, but the in-between spaces are being filled in to create a reclaimed peninsula. Although the setting is beautiful with a backdrop of high mountains, the hotchpotch of modern buildings clutters things somewhat. It's a good place to eat and refuel, but the magic of Lofoten lies elsewhere.

Svolvær

1Top Sights

1Foto GalleriB3

2Magic IceB4

1Sights

3Galleri Dagfinn BakkeA4

4Lofoten KrigsminnemuseumB4

5Nordnorsk KunstnersenterB3

2Activities, Courses & Tours

6Lofoten DivingB2

7Lofoten ExplorerB3

8RiB LofotenB4

9Trollfjord CruiseB3

10XX LofotenB3

4Sleeping

11Lofoten Suite HotelB3

12Scandic Hotel SvolværC3

13SH Rorbu AnleggetD3

14Svinøya RorbuerD2

Thon Hotel LofotenB3

5Eating

15Anker BryggeC3

BørsenD2

16Hjerterommet KafeB3

17Ni HaoB3

6Drinking & Nightlife

BryggabarenC3

18StyrhusetB4

1Sights

oFoto GalleriGALLERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %954 98 150; www.lofotfotografen.no; cnr Vestfjordgata & Kirkegata; h10am-4pm & 6.30-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm & 6.30-8pm Sat mid-Jun–mid-Aug, closed evenings rest of year)F

Stunning photos of the Lofoten Islands in all their brooding glory, most of them for sale, are the work of photographer Anders Finsland. It's worth stopping by even if you don't plan to buy.

oMagic IceSCULPTURE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %76 07 40 11; www.magicice.no; Fiskergata 36; adult/child 175/95kr; h11am-11pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat mid-May–mid-Sep, 4-11pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat rest of year)

Housed appropriately in what was once a fish-freezing plant, this is the ultimate place to chill out (perhaps with something to warm the spirit). The 500-sq-metre space is filled with huge ice sculptures, illustrating Lofoten life. If you can't return to northern Norway in winter, this is a great, if brief, approximation. Admission includes warm clothing and a drink in an ice glass.

Galleri Dagfinn BakkeGALLERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %76 07 19 98; www.dagfinnbakke.no; Richard Withs gate 4; h11am-3pm Mon-Wed & Fri, to 7pm Thu, to 2pm Sat)F

One of Svolvær's more interesting little private galleries, this place showcases works by local artist Dagfinn Bakke, in which the distinctive light and natural formations of Arctic Norway take centre stage, with a range of other painters also on display. As always, many of the pieces are for sale.

Nordnorsk KunstnersenterGALLERY

(North Norwegian Artist's Centre; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %400 89 595; www.nnks.no; Torget 20; h10am-6pm mid-Jun–mid-Aug, to 4pm Tue-Sun rest of year)F

On the main square and beside the tourist office, the North Norwegian Artist's Centre hosts changing exhibitions of paintings, sculpture, ceramics and more by artists from northern Norway. Its shop is a good source for a tasteful souvenir of Norway's north.

Lofoten KrigsminnemuseumMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %917 30 328; www.lofotenkrigmus.no; Fiskergata 12; adult/child 100/30kr; h10am-4pm Mon-Sat, noon-3pm & 6-10pm Sun mid-Jun–mid-Aug, upon request rest of year)

Housed in the town's old post office, Lofoten's little war-memorial museum recounts the islands' role in the drama of WWII, when the islands were occupied by the Nazis. The collection includes lots of fascinating period photos, plus original uniforms, ordnance and even a couple of (decommissioned) mines.

2Activities

oSvolværgeitaHIKING, CLIMBING

( GOOGLE MAP )

You'll see it on postcards all over Lofoten – some daring soul leaping between two fingers of rock high above Svolvær. To hike up to a point just behind the two pinnacles (355m), walk northeast along the E10 towards Narvik, past the marina, then turn left on Nyveien and right on Blatind veg. The steep climb begins just behind the children's playground.

The climb takes around half an hour, or an hour if you continue up to the summit of Floya. To actually climb Svolværgeita and take the leap, you'll need to go with a climbing guide – ask the tourist office for recommendations or try Northern Alpine Guides.

Lofoten DivingDIVING, SNORKELLING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %400 48 554; www.lofoten-diving.com; Sjømannsgata 5; 3hr snorkelling per person 850kr, diving per person 690-990kr)

For those willing to brave the Arctic waters, diving or snorkelling in the Lofotens is high on novelty value. This professional outfit has an office in Svolvær and another in Ballstad, way down in the south of Vestvagøy.

DON'T MISS

LOFOTEN CYCLING & OTHER ACTIVITIES

Lofoten is perfect cycling terrain, thanks to its combination of generally flat roads, stunning scenery and enticing detours at frequent intervals.

For 83km of breathtaking cycling, head to Holandshamn and make your way back to Svolvær along the Kaiser Route. Lonely shoreline, jagged mountains and abandoned farms will be your constant companion. Unlike the west of Lofoten, this trip takes in parts of the island largely undiscovered by tourists. A long stretch runs parallel to Trollfjord. Ask at the tourist office for information about hiring bikes and getting to Holandshamn.

Another possibility is the 63km from Henningsvær to Stamsund, a lightly trafficked route that takes in some fabulous scenery and quiet beaches en route.

The tourist office in Svolvær can give further cycling suggestions. Grab the Hjulgleder handbook to cycling in Lofoten.

Lofoten LinksGOLF

( GOOGLE MAP ; %76 07 20 02; www.lofotenlinks.no; Hov, Gimsøysand; 9-/18-hole/24hr green fees 550/850/1400kr; hMay–mid-Oct)

Surely one of Europe's most beautiful golf courses, Lofoten Links faces out into the ocean and offers that once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to play golf under the midnight sun. A true links course, it's a challenging round and the par-three 2nd hole was voted Norway's best in 2016. There's on-site luxury accommodation for those keen to make a package out of it.

LofothestHORSE RIDING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %905 90 309; www.lofothest.no; Valbergsveien 966-981, Rolvsfjord; 3/5hr trips per person from 1550/2150kr; hMay-Nov)

From 90-minute to two-day excursions across Vestvågøy, from Rolvsfjord, along the Rv815 north of Stamsund.

Hov HestegårdHORSE RIDING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %76 07 20 02, 917 69 809; www.hovhestegard.no; Tore Hjortsvei 471, Gimsøysand; 1½hr/2hr/half-day/full-day trail ride per person from 690/950/1350/1950kr; hMay-Jul)

Fine trail rides on the small island of Gimsøya, which lies between Vestvågøy and Austvågøy and is accessible off the E10.

TTours

XX LofotenKAYAKING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %916 55 500; www.xxlofoten.no; JE Paulsens gate 12; from 690kr; hmid-May–Aug)

Kayaking around the Svolvær waters is a fabulous way to explore, and this well-organised company offers regular, three-hour guided excursions using two-seater kayaks. It also rents out bikes and organises fishing trips, and sometimes seafood-cooking courses as well.

Lofoten Photo ToursTOURS

(%951 38 505; www.lofotenphototours.no; 1395kr; h10am Mon-Thu Sep-Apr by appointment)

Four-hour photo tours outside high season (the best time for photographing the Arctic light) run by local photographer Geir Nøtnes.

DON'T MISS

TROLLFJORD BOAT TRIPS

From the port, several competing companies offer sailings into the constricted confines of nearby Trollfjord, spectacularly steep and narrowing to only 100m. Take the two-hour sea-eagle trip, the three-hour cruise or sign on for a four-hour trip that includes the chance to dangle a line and bring home supper. Buy your ticket at the quayside ( GOOGLE MAP ; Vestfjordgata) or at operators such as Lofoten Explorer ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %971 52 248; www.lofoten-explorer.no; adult/child 795/600kr; h9am, 11.30am & 2pm Jul, 11.30am & 2pm Jun & Aug, 11.30am rest of year), RiB Lofoten ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %904 16 440; www.rib-lofoten.com; adult/child 750/600kr; h11am & 1pm May-Aug) or Trollfjord Cruise ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %451 57 587; www.trollfjordcruise.com; adult/child 700/350kr).

zFestivals & Events

World Cod Fishing ChampionshipCULTURAL

(hMar)

The town's annual World Cod Fishing Championship, a celebration of all things piscatorial, takes place over the last weekend of March with hundreds of participants.

4Sleeping

Scandic Hotel SvolværHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %76 07 22 22; www.scandichotels.no; Lamholmen; r from 995kr; pW)

The Rica here is built on a tiny island, above the water and supported by piles. Room 121 has a hole in the floor so guests can drop a fishing line directly into the water below. Such novelties aside, the rooms are functional rather than memorable – make sure you get one with a balcony.

oThon Hotel LofotenHOTEL$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %76 04 90 00; www.thonhotels.no; Torget; d 1545-2695kr; W)

This stylish, central hotel has a high-rise profile and sheets of mirror glass from the outside. The main selling point is the fabulous views – ask for a room on the upper floors (avoid the 2nd and 3rd floors). The binoculars in each room are a nice touch. The breakfast won the Twinings prize for the best in Norway in 2016.

oLofoten Suite HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %476 70 100; www.lofoten-suitehotel.com; Havnepromenaden; ste 1450-3300kr; W)

This striking wood-and-glass structure seems to hover above the harbour-front of Svolvær, so it's perhaps unsurprising that practically all its swanky suites have an ocean view with floor-to-ceiling windows. Stripped wood and colourful fabrics conjure a contemporary feel, and some rooms have little kitchenettes for preparing snacks.