SPP E-Book

Hammerfest

Pop 7938

Welcome to Norway's, and perhaps even the world's, northernmost town – other Norwegian communities, while further north, are, Hammerfest vigorously argues, too small to qualify as towns!

If you're arriving on the Hurtigruten coastal ferry, you'll have only 1½ hours to pace around, pick up an Arctic souvenir or two and visit the Royal & Ancient Polar Bear Society. For most visitors that will be ample, Hurtigruten or not.

History

Because of its strategic location and excellent harbour, Hammerfest has long been an important way station for shipping, fishing and Arctic hunting. In its heyday, ladies wore the finest Paris fashions and in 1890 Europe's first electric street lighting was installed.

Neither man nor nature has been kind to the town: it was set alight by the British in 1809, decimated by a gale in 1856, burnt severely in 1890, then torched again by the Nazis in 1944. Its parish church has gone up in flames five times over the centuries. All the same, fortune may at last be smiling on the town in a way that is having a huge impact.

A 143km-long undersea pipeline starts beneath the Barents Sea, fed from the huge natural gas fields of Snøhvit (Snowhite: an evocative name for such a giant industrial project). It runs to the small island of Melkøya out in the bay, where the gas is liquefied and transported by tanker to Europe and the USA. With estimated reserves of 193 billion (yes, billion) cu metres, the pumps, which came on tap in 2007, are expected to pound for at least 25 years.

Hammerfest

1Top Sights

1Hammerfest KirkeA3

2Royal & Ancient Polar Bear SocietyB1

1Sights

3GjenreisningsmuseetA3

4Salen HillC3

5Statue of Adolf Henrik LindstrømC1

4Sleeping

6Scandic Hotel HammerfestA2

7Smarthotel HammerfestD1

8Thon Hotel HammerfestC2

5Eating

Du Verden MatbarD1

9HavørnaC2

10KaikantenB2

Skansen Mat og VinstueA2

11TuristuaD3

1Sights

oHammerfest KirkeCHURCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Kirkegata 33; h9am-2pm mid-Jun–mid-Aug)

The design of Hammerfest's contemporary church, consecrated in 1961, was inspired by the racks used for drying fish in the salty sea air all across northern Norway. Behind the altar, the glorious stained-glass window positively glows in the summer sun, while the wooden frieze along the organ gallery depicts highlights of the town's history. The chapel in the cemetery across the street is the only building in town to have survived WWII.

oRoyal & Ancient Polar Bear SocietyMUSEUM

(Isbjørklubben; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %78 41 21 85; www.isbjornklubben.no; Hamnegata 3; h8am-6pm Jun & Jul, 9am-4pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat & Sun Aug-May)F

Dedicated to preserving Hammerfest culture, the Royal & Ancient Polar Bear Society (founded in 1963) features exhibits on Arctic hunting and local history and shares premises with the tourist office. For 200kr you can become a life member and get a certificate, ID card, sticker and pin. At times, the link to polar bears here can feel a little tenuous. But if you think of the place in terms of the Norwegian name (Isbjørklubben, simply Polar Bear Club), you're less likely to be disappointed.

Membership (there are around 250,000 members worldwide) entitles you to attend the annual general meeting of the society in January. And not everyone can join, it seems. In 1973, one Elvis Presley wrote to the society asking to join, but his application was refused – to become a member, one must be physically present in Hammerfest.

If simple membership is not enough and you're part of a group, for 300kr you also receive a schnapps glass and get dubbed with the large bone from a walrus's penis. Honestly. It's well worth the extra for the conversation this unique honour will generate down the pub once you're home. Advance reservations for this ceremony are necessary.

One of the exhibits covers Adolf Henrik Lindstrøm, a Hammerfest-born cook who accompanied Roald Amundsen and Fridtjof Nansen (among others) and ended up travelling on more polar expeditions that any other person on earth, great explorers included. The town erected a statue of Lindstrøm ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) in time for the 150th anniversary of his birth in 2016.

GjenreisningsmuseetMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %78 40 29 40; www.kystmuseene.no; Kirkegata 21; adult/child 80kr/free; h10am-4pm Jun–mid-Aug, 9am-3pm Mon-Fri, 11am-2pm Sat & Sun rest of year)

Hammerfest's Reconstruction Museum is a great little museum, with particularly thoughtful and sensitive panels and captions (each section has a synopsis in English). It recounts the forced evacuation and decimation of the town during the Nazi retreat in 1944; the hardships that its citizens endured through the following winter; and Hammerfest's postwar reconstruction and regeneration.

Salen HillVIEWPOINT

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

For panoramic views over the town, coast and mountains (there's a free pair of binoculars for you to sweep the bay), climb Salen Hill (86m), topped by the Turistua restaurant, a couple of Sami turf huts and a lookout point. The 15-minute uphill walking trail begins at the small park behind the Rådhus.

Meridian MonumentHISTORIC SITE

(Meridianstøtta; GOOGLE MAP )F

On the Fuglenes peninsula, just across the harbour, is the Meridianstøtta, a marble column commemorating the first survey (1816–52) by Russian scientist Friedrich Georg Wilhelm Struve to determine the arc of the global meridian and thereby calculate the size and shape of the earth. It forms part of a Unesco World Heritage Site known as the Struve Geodetic Arc.

WHAT'S WITH THE POLAR BEARS?

A wild polar bear hasn't been seen in Hammerfest for thousands of years, and yet polar bears adorn the city's coat of arms, statues of polar bears guard various public buildings and there's even the Royal & Ancient Polar Bear Society. Cashing in without cause? Well, not quite. In the 19th and 20th centuries, Hammerfest was a major base for Arctic hunting expeditions to the Norwegian territory of Svalbard (or Spitsbergen as it was better known). Returning expeditions brought back numerous captive polar bears (particularly cubs) and from Hammerfest they were shipped to zoos around the world.

TTours

The tourist office runs a one-hour tour of the city (in English, German and Norwegian) at 10.45am daily for 285kr per person. It coincides with the arrival of the Hurtigruten ferry and its exact starting time depends on when the boat docks. Book no later than 3pm the day before.

4Sleeping

Camping StorvannetCAMPGROUND$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %78 41 10 10; storvannet@yahoo.no; Storvannsveien 103; car/caravan sites 200/230kr, 2-/4-bed cabins 500/600kr; hJun-Sep)

Beside a lake and overlooked by a giant apartment complex, this pleasant site, Hammerfest's only decent camping option, is small so book your cabin in advance.

oSmarthotel HammerfestHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %415 36 500; www.smarthotel.no/hammerfest; Strandgata 32; s/d 950/1050kr; W)

From the outside, Smarthotel Hammerfest looks like a stylish designer hotel, so it comes as a pleasant surprise to find simple but stylish contemporary rooms at excellent prices within; prices also drop considerably when things are quiet. The rooms with harbour views are best, and there's a decent buffet breakfast included in the price.

Thon Hotel HammerfestHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %78 42 96 00; www.thonhotels.no/hammerfest; Strandgata 2-4; r from 935kr; iW)

A fairly standard outpost of the reliable Thon chain, this place is right by the water and has bright modern rooms and a good buffet breakfast.

Scandic Hotel HammerfestHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %78 42 57 00; www.scandichotels.no; Sørøygata 15; d 950-1799kr; piW)

Constructed in agreeable mellow brick, this hotel has an attractive if somewhat dated bar and lounge, and well-furnished rooms – they're worth it if you get a harbour view, but overpriced if not. Some of the bathrooms are so small that they require a contortionist's flexibility. Its Arctic Menu restaurant, Skansen Mat og Vinstue ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %78 42 57 00; www.scandichotels.no; Sørøygata 15; mains 185-355kr; h6-11pm), serves excellent local fare.

5Eating

KaikantenPIZZA, PUB FOOD$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %78 41 04 70; www.kaikanten.no; Sjøgata 19; pizza 170-240kr; h3pm-1am Sun-Thu, 3pm-3am Fri & Sat)

The 'Quayside' is a popular pub that serves pizzas and other snacks. Nautically themed (the backdrop to the bar represents old Hammerfest's dockside, and sail canvases billow beneath the ceiling), it has comfy sofas into which you sink deep. It's the sort of place that works well if you want to have a meal and then not have to move on for drinks.

oHavørnaSEAFOOD$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %480 29 661; www.havorna.com; Strandgata 16; mains lunch 88-156kr, dinner 185-318kr; h1-10pm)

The hugely popular Havørna couldn't be closer to where the fishing fleet comes in, and it serves up suitably fresh fish, from fish cakes or fish and chips for lunch to fish soup or oven-baked salmon in the evening. It also does takeaway.

TuristuaCAFE$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %94 15 46 25; Salen Hill; mains 155-275kr; h3.30-10pm)

From atop Salen Hill, Turistua offers great views over the town and sound. The off-putting name is for a lady named Turi, though turist buses often stop here too.

Du Verden MatbarNORWEGIAN, TAPAS$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %452 50 700; www.duverden.no; Strandgata 32; mains 185-365kr; h11am-midnight Mon-Sat, 3-9pm Sun)

Part of a stylish chain that we've enjoyed across Norway, this brasserie-style place does Norwegian classics, sometimes with a contemporary twist to suit the modern surrounds, as well as tapas. It's inside the Smarthotel Hammerfest.

8Information

Tourist Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %78 41 21 85; www.visithammerfest.no; Hamnegata 3; h8am-6pm Jun & Jul, 9am-4pm Mon-Fri & 10am-2pm Sat & Sun Aug-May; W) Has free wi-fi and rents out electric bikes for 159/399kr per hour/day.

8Getting There & Away

Buses ( GOOGLE MAP ; Hamnegata) run to/from Alta (335kr, 2¼ hours, two daily), Honningsvåg (468kr, 3½ hours, one to two daily) and Karasjok (450kr, 4¼ hours, twice daily except Saturday), with one service extending to Kirkenes (1155kr, 10¼ hours) via Tana Bru (810kr, eight hours) four times weekly.

The Hurtigruten coastal ferry ( GOOGLE MAP ; Hurtigrutenkai, Hamnegata) stops in Hammerfest for 1½ hours in each direction. A Hurigruten hop to Tromsø (11 hours) or Honningsvåg (five hours) makes a comfortable alternative to a long bus journey.

There's a taxi office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %78 41 12 34; www.hammerfesttaxi.no) opposite the tourist office.

Nordkapp & Magerøya

Pop 3300

Magerøya is a large island and the furthest north you can travel by land in Norway. At its northernmost tip sits Nordkapp, a place of pilgrimage for hundreds of thousands of tourists every year. Despite Magerøya lying so far north, its waters remain ice-free year-round, thanks to the Gulf Stream, meaning that cruise ships (and the Hurtigruten ferry) make regular stops here.

2Activities

North Cape ExperienceADVENTURE SPORTS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %913 11 557; www.thenorthcape-experience.com; Oterveien 1, Skarsvåg)

Based in Skarsvåg, this operator runs king-crab safaris, wildlife-watching boat trips and trips to Knivskjelodden.

4Sleeping

Kirkeporten CampingCAMPGROUND$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %78 47 52 33; www.kirkeporten.no; Storvannsveien 2, Skarsvåg; per person/campsite 50/155kr, cabins 460-970kr; hMay-Oct)

Just outside the hamlet of Skarsvåg, this welcoming campsite is a favourite of British adventure tour groups. Its claim to be the world's northernmost camping stands up; there's a rival on Svalbard but it's without cabins. The cosy cafe does reindeer and a fresh-fish daily special, as well as soup and pizzas.

Nordkapp CampingCAMPGROUND$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %78 47 33 77; www.nordkappcamping.no; E69, Skipsfjorden; per adult/child/site 50/25/160kr, d 710kr, cabins 610-1495kr; hMay–mid-Sep; W)

The well-equipped communal kitchen, friendly service and variety of lodging options more than compensate for the stark location of this campground, the nearest to Honningsvåg.

Scandic NordkappHOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %78 47 72 60; www.scandichotels.no; Skipsfjorden; r from 1099kr; pW)

Out along the road to Nordkapp, this full-service wilderness hotel has the feel of a ski lodge and is wonderfully silent in the evening. Rooms are simpler than others in the Scandic chain, but they're comfortable and there's an on-site restaurant.

8Getting There & Away

Getting to Magerøya means getting to Honningsvåg, which is reached via the Hurtigruten coastal ferry, buses (to/from Alta and Hammerfest) and the pretty E6 road (beware reindeer if driving).

8Getting Around

Bus

Between mid-May and late August, a local bus (adult/child 545/295kr, 45 minutes) runs daily at 11am and 9.30pm between Honningsvåg and Nordkapp. It sets off back from the cape at 1.15pm and 12.45am (so that you can take in the midnight sun at precisely midnight). From 1 June to 15 August, there's a supplementary run at 5pm, though this returns at 6.15pm, giving you barely half an hour at Nordkapp unless you want to hang around for the service that returns at 12.45am. Check precise departure times with the tourist office. Ticket prices include the Nordkapp entry fee.

If you're on a budget, carefully read the terms of any inclusive tours, which probably charge considerably more for similar services.

Car & Motorcycle

Until the blacktop road to Nordkapp was constructed in the mid-1950s, all access was by boat. Nowadays the route winds across a rocky (and often snowbound) plateau past herds of grazing reindeer. Depending upon snow conditions, it's open to private traffic from April to mid-October. In other months, ring the tourist office if the weather looks dicey.

A taxi to/from Nordkapp from Honningsvåg costs at least 1500kr, including an hour of waiting at the cape – plus the Nordkapp admission charge per passenger.

TRUE NORTH?

Now here's a secret: Nordkapp isn't continental Europe's northernmost point. That award belongs to Knivskjelodden, an 18km-return-trip hike away – less dramatic, inaccessible by vehicle, and to be treasured all the more for it. And Nordkapp technically inhabits an island – mainland Europe's northernmost point is away to the east, at Kinnarodden on the Nordkyn peninsula.

Nordkapp

Nordkapp is the one attraction in northern Norway that everybody seems to visit. It is a tourist trap, however – billing itself as the northernmost point in continental Europe, it sucks in visitors by the busload – some 200,000 every year.

Nearer to the North Pole than to Oslo, Nordkapp sits at latitude 71°10'21" N, where the sun never drops below the horizon from mid-May to the end of July. Long before other Europeans took an interest, it was a sacrificial site for the Sami, who believed it had special powers.

Yes, it's a rip-off, but Nordkapp is a stunning, hauntingly beautiful place. Even after the novelty wears off, it's the view that thrills the most. In reasonable weather you can gaze down at the wild surf more than 300m below, watch the mists roll in and simply enjoy the moment.

History

Richard Chancellor, the English explorer who drifted here in 1553 in search of the Northeast Passage, first gave it the name North Cape. Much later, after a highly publicised visit by King Oscar II in 1873, Nordkapp became a pilgrimage spot for Norwegians. It's also, bizarrely, one for Thais, thanks to a visit by King Chulalongkorn in 1907.

NORDKAPP ENTRY

To reach the 'tip of the continent' – by car, by bike, on a bus or by walking in – you have to pay a toll (adult/child/family 270/95/635kr) at the final entrance to Nordkapp. This allows unlimited entry over two days.

1Sights

Nordkapp Visitor CentreVISITOR CENTRE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %78 47 68 60; www.visitnordkapp.net; h11am-1am mid-May–mid-Aug, 11am-10pm mid-end Aug, 11am-3pm Sep–mid-May)

Presiding over a scene of considerable natural beauty is this visitor centre, a vast bunker of a place, topped by a giant, intrusive golf ball. Within you'll find a detailed account of WWII naval actions off the cape; a cafeteria and restaurant; the Grotten bar, with views of Europe's end through its vast glass wall; a one-room Thai museum; the St Johannes chapel ('the world's northernmost ecumenical chapel'); a post office (for that all-important Nordkapp postmark); and an appropriately vast souvenir shop.

A 120-degree five-screen theatre shows an enjoyable 17-minute panoramic film.

4Sleeping

Astoundingly, you can spend the night in your motor home or caravan at Nordkapp itself (fill up on water and make sure your back-up electricity is all charged though, because you won't find these resources here). Otherwise, you'll need to find accommodation elsewhere on Magerøya.

8Getting There & Away

A good road, the 36km-long E69, connects Honningsvåg with Nordkapp. In winter you may need to travel in a convoy behind a snowplough.

Buses, both tour and the public variety, connect the two – ask Honningsvåg's tourist office for advice on what's leaving next.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

HIKING TO KNIVSKJELODDEN

The continent's real northernmost point, Knivskjelodden, is mercifully inaccessible to vehicles and devoid of tat. Lying about 3km west of Nordkapp, it sticks its finger a full 1457m further northwards. You can hike to the tip of this promontory from a marked car park 6km south of the Nordkapp toll booth – the trails are likely to be snowbound (and hence impassable) deep into May and possibly as early as September.

The 9km track, waymarked with giant cairns, isn't difficult despite some ups and downs, but it's best to wear hiking boots since it can be squelchy. When you get to the tall beehive-shaped obelisk at latitude 71°11'08" N, down at sea level, sign the guest book. Should you wish, note down your reference number from the book and you can buy – nothing but the hike comes free on this island – a certificate (50kr) authenticating your achievement from Nordkapp Camping at Skipsfjorden or Honningsvåg's tourist office. Allow five to six hours for the return-trip hike.

Honningsvåg

Pop 2415

Deep in Norway's Arctic North, tiny Honningsvåg is the gateway to Nordkapp. For much of the time, it's a quiet place strung out around a harbour with some cod-drying racks along the shoreline. But it gets overwhelmed by visitors stocking up on supplies and souvenirs whenever a cruise ship (or the Hurtigruten ferry) docks, which happens especially often in summer. At such times, it's a chaotic, unappealing place brimful of jostling hordes.

1Sights

Nordkapp MuseumMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %78 47 72 00; www.nordkappmuseet.no; Fiskeriveien 4; adult/child 50/10kr; h10am-7pm mid-Jun–mid-Aug, 11am-3pm Mon-Fri rest of year)

Honningsvåg's Nordkapp Museum, next to the Hurtigruten dock, illustrates the impact of early visitors to the cape, the hard days in the immediate aftermath of WWII and the daily life of a town that, until the advent of tourism, lived primarily from the sea.

2Activities & Tours

Ask at Honningsvåg's tourist office for a list of possible activities, many of which are run by 71° Nord ( GOOGLE MAP ; %472 89 320; www.71-nord.no; Holmen 6c) or North Cape Experience – these include year-round king-crab safaris, winter activities such as snowmobile expeditions, and summer ocean rafting, quad-biking and deep-sea fishing.

The tourist office organises 1½-hour guided walking tours of the town (adult/child 99/50kr) at noon from June to late August; no reservations are required. They also offer guided bus transfers to/from Nordkapp (650kr). Ask also about the guided walks (475kr per person) led by a local fisherman in Skarsvåg.

4Sleeping

Scandic Hotel BryggenHOTEL$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %78 47 72 50; www.scandichotels.no; Vågen 1; r from 1649kr; pW)

There are two Scandic hotel options in Honningsvåg, and the Bryggen is the newer. It has tidy, contemporary rooms that could be a little larger, but they're at the quieter end of town and have superior views.

Scandic Hotel HonningsvågHOTEL$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %78 47 72 20; www.scandichotels.no; Nordkappgata 4; r from 1390kr; W)

The big plus of this hotel, reliable as all others in this Norway-wide chain, is its position, right beside the docks. Grillen, its à-la-carte restaurant, is well worth a visit, whether you're staying at the hotel or elsewhere.

5Eating

Arctic SansCAFE$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %415 11 351; Storgata 22; mains 125-285kr; h10am-8pm Mon-Thu, 10am-10pm Fri, 11am-10pm Sat, 1-7pm Sun)

Great coffee is where you suspect its passion lies, but Arctic Sans also serves up crispy cod tongues, creamy fish soup and chicken wings. It's far enough away from the ferry docks for it to be a little more relaxed than other places further around the harbour.

CornerCAFE$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %78 47 63 40; www.corner.no; Fiskerveien 2a; mains 195-275kr; h10am-11pm)

Corner serves the usual pizzas and snacks, but also offers great seafood such as crispy cod tongues or, more conventionally, fried fillet of cod. It also has plenty of meaty mains and a bar with an inviting outdoor terrace overlooking the water.

King Crab HouseSEAFOOD$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %458 75 330; www.kingcrabhouse.no; Sjøgata 6; mains 280-320kr; hnoon-10pm daily mid-Jun–mid-Aug, shorter hours rest of year)

King crabs are the centrepiece here, but they also do other local seafood and a range of tapas. We enjoyed the pan-fried cod with king-crab risotto and white-wine sauce. They also have smaller servings for those with lesser appetites.

6Drinking & Nightlife

oArticoBAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; %78 47 15 00; www.articoicebar.com; Sjøgata 1a; h11am-4pm Apr–mid-May, 10am-7pm late May, 10am-9pm Jun–mid-Aug, 10am-7.30pm late Aug, 11am-3pm Sep)

For a shiver in summer and a sense of how Nordkapp must hit the senses in winter, visit Artico (adult/child 139/40kr), one of Norway's original ice bars. Owner, Spaniard José Milares, a polar photographer and adventurer, talks with passion about the shapes, bubbles and inadvertent abstract art in the pure ice that he garners afresh each season.

The kids can crawl into an igloo that he constructs each year.

8Information

Honningsvåg's tourist office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %78 47 70 30; www.nordkapp.no; Fiskeriveien 4; h10am-10pm Mon-Fri, noon-8pm Sat & Sun mid-Jun–mid-Aug, 11am-2pm Mon-Fri rest of the yr; W), beside the harbour, has free wi-fi that tends to crash when the cruises arrive, as well as information on visiting Nordkapp.

8Getting There & Away

There are a few options for getting to and from Nordkapp and Magerøya:

The Hurtigruten coastal ferry calls by Honningsvåg, and its 3½-hour northbound stop allows passengers a quick buzz up to Nordkapp.

From mid-May to late August, a local bus (adult/child 545/295kr, 45 minutes) runs daily at 11am and 9.30pm between Honningsvåg and Nordkapp.

An express bus connects Honningsvåg with Alta (520kr, four hours, one to two daily) and there's also a run to/from Hammerfest (468kr, 3½ hours, one to two daily).

If you're driving, the road approach from the E6 is via Olderfjord, where the E69 branches north.

GUARANTEEING A BUS SEAT

Should you see a cruise ship (or the Hurtigruten ferry) heading for port, rush to the tourist office to reserve your bus journey to Nordkapp. Travellers tell horror tales of scrimmages, arguments and bus drivers simply driving on by once these monsters of the waves disgorge their masses.

Kamøyvær

Pop 70

A short detour from the E69 between Honningsvåg and Nordkapp brings you to this tiny, sheltered fishing hamlet, its pastel-shaded cottages and cabins encircling the small harbour. It's a place to escape the crowds, with a fine hotel and even an art gallery.

1Sights

Gallery East of the SunGALLERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %78 47 51 37; www.evart.no; Risfjordveien 5, Arran; hnoon-9pm mid-May–mid-Aug)F

Call by the Gallery East of the Sun, which features the sinuous shapes, bright canvases and intriguing collages of German artist Eva Schmutterer.

4Sleeping

Nordkapp Arran HotellHOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %75 40 20 85; www.arran.as; s 750-980kr, d 1000-1250kr; hmid-May–Aug; pW)

Nordkapp Arran Hotell has 44 rooms spread over three quayside buildings. The Sami family who run it bake their own bread and the menu here is always the freshest of fish, hauled from the seas off Magerøya. To vary the cuisine it also offers a reindeer special.

8Getting There & Away

The only way to get to Kamøyvær is with your own wheels.

Gjesvær

Pop 160

It's a stunning drive to the remote fishing village of Gjesvær, 34km northwest of Honningsvåg and 21km off the Honningsvåg–Nordkapp road, where you'll find two excellent birdwatching outfits. Rolling tundra, punctuated by dark pools and cropped by reindeer, gives way to a stark, rocky landscape, and then a sudden view of low skerries (rocky islets) and the Gjesværstappan islands.

2Activities

oStappan SjøprodukterBIRDWATCHING, FISHING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %950 37 722; www.stappan.com; Gjesvær; hJun-Aug, rest of year by reservation)

Fisherman Roald Berg, who built the Stappan Sjøprodukter complex with his own hands, will take you birdwatching (adult/child 650/475kr) in Aurora, his small boat (two departures daily). Or join him for a 2½-hour fishing expedition (3000kr, maximum four passengers). He also organises northern-lights safaris in winter and king-crab safaris year-round.

He also has a restaurant and two well-furnished apartments (1000kr for two people, plus 100kr per person for bedding and towels).

oBird SafariBIRDWATCHING, FISHING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %416 13 983; www.birdsafari.com; Gjesvær; adult/youth/child 675/350kr/free; hearly Apr-late Sep)

Bird Safari sails two to three times daily between June and late August to the bird colony on the Gjesværstappan islands. There are an estimated three million nesting birds, including colonies of puffins, skuas, razorbills, kittiwakes, gannets and white-tailed eagles. Bird Safari also has simple seafront accommodation and can also arrange fishing.

5Eating

Terrassen RestaurantNORWEGIAN$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %95 03 77 22; www.stappan.com/restaurant.html; Kobbenesveien 8, Gjesvær; sandwiches & light meals from 135kr, mains 250-390kr; h1-8pm Jun–mid-Aug)

The owners of Stappan Sjøprodukter also run a splendid waterside summer cafe-restaurant offering reindeer stew, king crab, cloudberries and cream, and waffles with homemade blueberry jam.

8Getting There & Away

Apart from one daily bus from Honningsvåg, the only way to reach Gjesvær is with your own vehicle – the village is 34km northwest of Honningsvåg, signposted off the Nordkapp road.

Eastern Finnmark

Welcome to one of the most remote corners of Europe. For those who make it out here, Eastern Finnmark, heartland of the Eastern Sami culture, has some charming coastal villages and a unique frontier history that encompasses Finns, explorers and wartime destruction. Terrific birdwatching, deliciously empty coastlines and villages where you might just be the only visitor – get ready to explore. Kirkenes has few sights, but plenty of activities to enjoy in both summer and winter.

WORTH A TRIP

NESSEBY CHURCH

Along one of the prettiest stretches of the E75 (a designated National Scenic Route; see www.nasjonaleturistveger.no), the lovely white Nesseby Church ( GOOGLE MAP ) sits far out on the shoreline against the dramatic backdrop of distant mountains. The church itself was built in 1858 and was one of the few in Finnmark to survive the ravages of WWII. The church is signposted off the main road, 0.8km along a quiet road. Alongside the church is the small Nesseby Nature Reserve, beloved by birders.

Tana Bru

Pop 668

Tiny Tana Bru takes its name from the bridge over the great Tana River, the only one for miles up- and downstream. It's all about salmon fishing here, but the pleasant setting, a couple of decent places to eat and an excellent silversmith shop make it worth a stopover on your way through.

2Activities

Here, on one of Europe's best salmon reaches, locals use the technique of constructing barrages to obstruct the upstream progress of the fish; the natural barrage at Storfossen falls, about 30km upstream, is one of Norway's finest fishing spots. You'll need good luck to pull out anything to compare with the record 36kg specimen once played ashore here. Elva Hotel can get you kitted out and provide advice.

WORTH A TRIP

SAMI MUSEUMS

CeavccageadgeHISTORIC SITE

( GOOGLE MAP ; h11am-4pm mid-Jun–late Aug)

At Mortensnes, on the E75, about 15km east of Varangerbotn, you can stroll towards the shore amid traces of early Sami culture. At the western end, past burial sites, the remains of homesteads and a reconstructed turf hut, is the namesake ceavccageadge, a pillar standing near the water, which was smeared with cod-liver oil to ensure luck while fishing. On a hill to the east the Bjørnstein, a rock resembling a bear, was revered by early Sami inhabitants.

Varanger Sami MuseumMUSEUM

(Várjjat Sámi Musea; GOOGLE MAP ; %952 62 155; www.varjjat.org; adult/child 80kr/free; h10am-6pm mid-Jun–mid-Aug, 10am-3pm Mon-Fri rest of year)

In Varangerbotn, close to where the E6 meets the E75 17km east of Tana Bru, this is a fun, informative and hi-tech display about Sami life and culture, with Sami-related temporary exhibitions and artwork by contemporary Sami artists. Outside is a small, permanent, open-air display of Sami turf huts, fishing equipment and domestic life.

4Sleeping & Eating

Elva HotelHOTEL$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %78 92 82 22; www.elvahotel.no; Silbageaidnu 10; campsites 250kr, s/d 1400/1850kr; hmid-Jun–mid-Aug; pW)

You'll find a campground, comfortable – though overpriced – rooms, a restaurant and bar at Elva Hotel, a convenient staging post in a classic wooden building at the junction of the Rv98 and E6/E75. Hotel rates include a light evening meal. It's also the best place in town for organising salmon-fishing outings.

Trattoria ParmaITALIAN$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %941 48 064; www.facebook.com/trattoriatana; Rådhusveien 20; mains 175-269kr; hnoon-11pm Mon-Sat, 1-11pm Sun)

As popular for its bright modern setting as for its food, Tana Bru's most agreeable eating experience is good for pizza, pasta, burgers, kebabs and a few more substantial mains. Walk in the door and smell the pizza and you'll be hooked.

Elvekanten SpiseriNORWEGIAN$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %78 92 82 22; Silbageaidnu 10; mains from 155kr; hnoon-10pm)

Attached to the Elva Hotel, this simple place has one very clear and appealing calling card – most days, they serve local salmon (from 175kr), usually oven-baked, fresh from the river.

7Shopping

Tana Gull og SølvsmieJEWELLERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %78 92 80 06; www.tanagullogsolv.com; off Rådhusveien; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat, noon-4pm Sun late Jun-early Aug, shorter hours rest of year)

Tana Gull og Sølvsmie was established in 1976 as eastern Finnmark's first gold- and silversmith. Andreas Lautz creates some very fine gold, silver and bronze jewellery, inspired by traditional Sami designs. The shop also displays quality textiles, ceramics and glassware, as well as traditional Sami knives and a few fossils.

8Getting There & Away

There are daily buses to/from Kirkenes (2½ hours) and Vadsø (1¼ hours). Westbound, the Kirkenes–Alta bus passes through four times weekly.

WORTH A TRIP

KONGSFJORD GUESTHOUSE

Gorgeous, deliciously remote Kongsfjord Gjestehus ( GOOGLE MAP ; %78 98 10 00; www.kongsfjord-gjestehus.no; Veines; s 770-1370kr, d 990-1560kr; pW) has 18 beautifully restored rooms, with lovely wooden walls and tastefully chosen furnishings, many with a marine-blue hue. It's a wonderful place, 100km beyond Tana Bru, to spend a week away from the world. There's excellent birdwatching around here, too. Ase and Margherita are fine hosts.

Vadsø

Pop 5116

If the sun's out, there's much to recommend this remote town. The birdwatching here is first rate, the surrounding country is rather beautiful and there are some good places to stay and eat. Come to Vadsø when it's grey and overcast and the wind is howling, however, and you'll wonder if you've stumbled across the border into Siberia. It's not up to you, of course, which Vadsø you encounter, but trust us, it's worth hanging around until the sun shines if you can.

1Sights

LuftskipsmastaHISTORIC SITE

( GOOGLE MAP )

This oil-rig-shaped airship mast on Vadsø island was built in the mid-1920s as an anchor and launch site for airborne expeditions to the polar regions. The expedition of Roald Amundsen, Umberto Nobile and Lincoln Ellsworth, which floated via the North Pole to Alaska in the airship Norge N-1, first used it in April 1926.

Two years later it was the launch site for Nobile's airship, Italia, which attempted to repeat the journey but crashed on Svalbard. Amundsen – together with 12 steamships, 13 planes and 1500 men – joined the rescue expedition and disappeared in the attempt, becoming a national martyr as well as a hero. It's well worth the breezy 600m stroll across the grass flats to savour the rich variety of aquatic birds in the small lake just beyond.

2Activities

Vadsø is a big draw for birdwatchers, especially in early summer when they come to see Steller's eider; one even stayed for the 2017 summer. Vadsø Fjordhotell is the place to start for birders – the knowledgeable staff are all over recent sightings and have plenty of useful brochures. Arntzen Arctic Adventures ( GOOGLE MAP ; %907 60 412; www.varanger.info; Fossesvingen 25) is also excellent, and has its own hides and bird park.

POLAR BEAR NEAR VADSØ?

In July 1953, two salmon fishermen spotted what they at first thought was a large sheep, on the island of Lille Ekkerøy, east of Ekkerøy itself. On closer examination, it turned out to be a polar bear that, it is believed, probably arrived in these parts on a drifting iceberg. With no further ado, the fishermen shot the bear and paraded its pelt through Ekkerøy.

zFestivals & Events

VarangerfestivalenMUSIC

(%982 55 600; www.varangerfestivalen.no; hAug)

One of northern Norway's oldest music festivals, Varangerfestivalen sees jazz, rock and world music come to Vadsø.

4Sleeping

Vestre Jakobselv CampingCAMPGROUND$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %78 95 60 64; www2.vj-camping.no; Lilledalsveien; per tent/site 100/200kr, cabins 550-2000kr, r 500-1000kr; hMay-Sep)

Rooms and cabins are very reasonably priced at Vadsø's nearest campsite, 17km west of town. Only 200m from a fast-flowing salmon river, it's a popular venue for fisherfolk.

oVadsø FjordhotellHOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %450 60 345; www.vadsoefjordhotell.no; Brugata 2; s/d from 995/1195kr; pW)

With staff who are extremely knowledgeable about local birding (it's also known as Base Camp for Birders) and located close to the trailhead for the Luftskipsmasta, this friendly place has simple but comfy rooms, most of which look out over the water. Breakfast is ample and prices drop the longer you stay. Campervans are also allowed to overnight here.

Scandic Hotel VadsøHOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %78 95 25 50; www.scandichotels.no; Oscarsgate 4; r 1049-1455kr; piW)

Plumb in the town centre, the friendly Scandic has spruce rooms with parquet flooring. Complete with free sauna and minigym, it represents Vadsø's most upmarket choice.

oEkkerøy Holiday HouseAPARTMENT$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %908 91 558; post@ekkeroy.net; Fv321, Ekkerøy; apt from 1490kr)

Beloved by birders and those looking for the warmth of a converted wooden Varanger home, this fine place is 15km east of Vadsø and well worth considering as a base for the area, whether you're here for the birdwatching or not.

5Eating

HildonenCAFE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %78 95 15 06; Centrum 8; snacks & light mains 34-77kr; h7am-4pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm Sat)

The aroma of warm bread and sweet cakes draws you into this bakery and cafe, hugely popular with locals for its pastries, focaccia, baguettes and paninis.

Opticom KaffebarINTERNATIONAL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %78 95 33 00; Tollbugata 9; mains 149-215kr; h11am-midnight Mon-Thu, 11am-2am Fri & Sat, 3-11pm Sun)

Vadsø's coolest venue serves great coffee, has a long list of alcoholic drinks and serves up open sandwiches, burgers and wraps to well-dressed locals who like the slick decor and smooth music.

Oscar Mat og VinhusNORWEGIAN$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %78 95 25 50; www.scandichotels.no; Oscarsgate 4, Scandic Hotel Vadsø; mains 185-395kr; h6-10.30pm)

Oscar Mat og Vinhus, the Scandic Hotel Vadsø restaurant, is the town's finest, offering king crab in all its varieties (natural, marinated in garlic…) to go with its regular cast of reliable Norwegian specialities, including reindeer. There are simpler burgers for those counting their kroner.

8Information

Vadsø Tourist Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %450 01 875; www.varanger.com; Tollbugata 9-11, Frivillighetssentralen; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun mid-Jun–mid-Aug) Open in summer only but handy for maps and moderately useful info on museums and the wider Varanger area.

8Getting There & Away

Vadsø is a stop only on the northbound Hurtigruten coastal ferry, which heads for Kirkenes at 8am. There are at least two buses daily to/from Tana Bru (1¼ hours) and Vardø (1½ hours).

WORTH A TRIP

AN ARCTIC NATIONAL PARK

Protecting most of the interior of the Varanger Peninsula, the wild and windswept Varangerhalvøya National Park ( GOOGLE MAP ) was shaped before the last Ice Age and is one of Norway's oldest, untouched Arctic landforms. In addition to its birdwatching, the park is also an important breeding habitat for the Arctic fox – nowhere else in Norway, other than Svalbard, do Arctic foxes live so close to the sea. Sami herders also bring their reindeer up onto the plateau to graze in summer.

Vardø

Pop 1893

Vardø qualifies as Norway's easternmost town and is well off the beaten track for all but the most diehard travellers. Although this butterfly-shaped island is connected to the mainland by the 2.9km-long Ishavstunnelen (Arctic Ocean tunnel), locals maintain that theirs is the only 'mainland' Norwegian town lying within the Arctic climatic zone (its average temperature is below 10°C). Once a stronghold of trade with the Russian Pomors, it's now a major fishing port and home to many Russian and, strangely, Sri Lankan immigrants. It's not Norway's prettiest town, but it does have a certain windswept Siberia-esque appeal.

And getting here is half the fun: it's a pancake-flat 75km drive between Vadsø and Vardø, along a designated National Tourist Route, but the ribbon of road has a lonely charm as it threads its way between the shoreline, hardy grasses and tough, low shrubs.

1Sights

oSteilneset MemorialMONUMENT

( GOOGLE MAP ; h24hr, guided visits 11am mid-Jun–mid-Aug)

This stunning monument, a collaboration between French artist Louis Bourgeois and Swiss architect Peter Zumthor, is dedicated to the 91 people executed for witchcraft and sorcery in 17th-century Vardø. Zumthor's beautiful 125m-long memorial hall has one illuminated window for each of the victims, while Bourgeois' installation is a chair surrounded by five gas flames and seven oval mirrors. The site is carefully chosen – it is believed that many of the executions took place near here.

Vardøhus FestningFORT

( GOOGLE MAP ; %916 88 558; Festningsgate 20; 50kr; h8am-9pm mid-May–Aug, 10am-6pm rest of year)

The star-shaped Vardøhus Fortress – yes, of course, it's the world's most northerly – was constructed in 1737 by King Christian VI. For a fortress, it's painted in unusually gentle fairy-tale colours. Stroll around the flower-festooned bastions, past turf-roofed buildings and Russian cannons after you've paid the admission fee, either at the guard office or by dropping it into the WWII sea mine that guards the entrance.

WITCHCRAFT IN VARDØ

Between 1621 and 1692, around 91 Vardø women were accused of witchcraft and burned; a sign and flag at Kristian IV gate 24 commemorates the site, and the exceptional Steilneset Memorial pays tribute to their memory. On Domen, a hill about 2km south of town on the mainland, is the cave where they were supposed to have held their satanic rites and secret rendezvous with the devil.

2Activities

HornøyaBIRDWATCHING

( GOOGLE MAP ; return 200kr)

In summer there are regular boat trips from the port to the island of Hornøya, to see its picturesque lighthouse and teeming bird cliffs. To be all alone after the last shuttle pulls out, reserve one of only three beds at the lighthouse.

Wild VarangerWILDLIFE WATCHING, SNORKELLING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %992 49 515; www.wildvaranger.com; Havnestien 12, Kiberg)

This experienced operator can arrange snorkelling with guillemots, deep-sea fishing, birdwatching, excursions to the bird cliffs of Hornøya, sea rafting and king-crab safaris out of Vardø.

WORTH A TRIP

HAMNINGBERG

A warmly recommended 88km return trip northwards along the coast from Vardø brings you to the tiny, semi-abandoned, timber-built settlement of Hamningberg.

The single-lane road runs through some of northern Norway's most fascinating geology: inky tarns, copses of scrubby bushes clinging to the meagre topsoil for dear life, flecks of snow even in late July and looming, lichen-covered eroded stone pillars, the remnants of sedimentary layers turned on end. En route, you'll pass reindeer herds and several sandy beaches. Save the bucket-and-spading, though, until the return journey when, 7.3km south of Hamningberg, you can walk to the broadest beach through the small nature reserve of Sandfjordneset, with its protected sand dunes set back from the shoreline.

What makes the village special is that, being so remote, it was saved from the general destruction of the Nazi retreat in WWII. Only one house was destroyed – and that by a Russian bomber. The rest, abandoned in the 1960s except for summer visitors, still stand as living reminders of what was once one of eastern Finnmark's largest fishing villages. Here where the road ends, there's a small summertime cafe.

4Sleeping & Eating

Kiberg Bed & BoatGUESTHOUSE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %413 28 679; Havnegata 37, Kiberg; s/d with shared bathroom 420/575kr)

In Kiberg, 13km south of Vardø, genial owner Ronny Larsen runs these renovated fisherfolk's sleeping quarters, with lounge and well-equipped guest kitchen. Rooms are trim and tidy and there's no better place in Norway to suck on the limbs of a giant king crab (around 375kr). Ronny can organise four-hour fishing trips and birdwatching walks. Reception is open between 6pm and midnight.

Hornøya LighthouseBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %78 98 72 75; per person 550kr)

To be all alone overnight out on the island of Hornøya, reserve one of only three beds at the lighthouse. It's no frills but wonderfully evocative and listening to the wind howl all night (while staying warm) is true immersion.

ABC ThaiTHAI$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %78 94 46 00; Kristian IV gate 3; mains from 150kr; hnoon-11pm Feb-Nov)

This place might look simple but it punches above its weight. Order a dish of tasty, authentic Thai cooking in – you've guessed it – mainland Europe's most northerly Thai restaurant. Accompany this with one of the 36 kinds of bottled beer on offer, including equally authentic Thai Singha beer.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Nordpol KroPUB

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.nordpolkro.no; Kaigata 21; h10am-3pm Mon, 10am-3pm & 8pm-midnight Tue & Thu, 10am-3pm & 8pm-3am Fri, 8.30pm-3am Sat, 8pm-midnight Sun)

Dating from 1858, with wooden boards and antique bric-a-brac, Nordpol Kro lays good claim to being northern Norway's oldest eatery. Your friendly landlord, Bjørn Bredesen, has what must be just about anywhere's most comprehensive collection of beer mats. Pick the right night and you can enjoy live music too.

8Information

Vardø has a seasonal tourist office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %78 98 69 07; www.varanger.com; Havnepromenaden; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 2-5pm Sat & Sun Jun-Aug).

8Getting There & Away

Vardø is a stop on the Hurtigruten coastal ferry route. Buses follow the scenic seaside route between Vadsø and Vardø (1½ hours) at least twice daily and two services run to Kirkenes (3½ hours) daily except Saturday.

Kirkenes

Pop 3498

This is it: you're as far east as Cairo, further east than most of Finland, a mere 15km from the border with Russia – and at the end of the line for the Hurtigruten coastal ferry. It's also road's end for the E6, the highway that runs all the way down to Oslo.

This tiny, nondescript place, anticlimactic for many, has a distinct frontier feel. You'll see street signs in Norwegian and Cyrillic script and hear Russian spoken by trans-border visitors and fishermen, who enjoy better prices for their catch here than in their home ports further to the east.

The town reels with around 100,000 visitors every year, most stepping off the Hurtigruten to spend a couple of hours in the town before travelling onward. But you should linger a while here, not primarily for the town's sake but to take one of the many excursions and activities on offer.

Kirkenes

1Sights

1AndersgrottaD3

2Activities, Courses & Tours

2PasvikturistB2

4Sleeping

3Scandic Arctic HotelC3

4Thon Hotel KirkenesC1

5Eating

5Surf & TurfA2

1Sights

AndersgrottaHISTORIC BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %78 97 05 40; www.kirkenessnowhotel.com; Tellef Dahls gate; adult/child 200/100kr; hvisits 12.30pm Jun-Aug)

Drop down the steep stairs of Andersgrotta into this cave that once served as an air-raid shelter and bunker as wave upon wave of Russian bombers sought to knock out the Nazi ore-shipping facility. There's a multilingual presentation, and a nine-minute video also tells the tale. Wrap up warmly as the temperature here is 3°C, even in summer.

Gabba Reindeer & Husky ParkZOO

( GOOGLE MAP ; %78 97 05 40; www.kirkenessnowhotel.com; Sandnesdalen 14; adult/child 250/125kr; hnoon-4pm Jun-Sep)

This may not be so much of a treat for the children if you've been driving in Eastern Finnmark and have stopped to relate to communing roadside reindeer. But it's worth the visit if you've just rolled in on the Hurtigruten; they'll enjoy petting the huskies too.

RUSSIAN MARKET

On the last Thursday of most months, Russian merchants set up shop around the town centre of Kirkenes, selling everything from craftwork to binoculars. Prices aren't as cheap as in Russia, but they're still a bargain for Norway.

TTours & Activities

Kirkenes offers a wealth of tours and activities. For an overview according to season, get one of the comprehensive brochures, Summer Activities or Winter Activities, from your hotel.

There's a summertime reservation point in the Scandic Arctic Hotel lobby, or book directly with tour operators. Do your research – operations are professional and well-run, but prices and timings sometimes vary so find out what best suits your needs.

Tour agencies can arrange in-town or hotel pick-ups. In addition to the following, it's also worth checking what BIRK Husky, based in the Pasvik River Valley, and Sollia Gjestegård have on offer.

Barents Safari
Pasvikturist ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %78 99 50 80; www.pasvikturist.no; Dr Wessels gate 9)
Kirkenes Snow Hotel ( GOOGLE MAP ; %78 97 05 40; www.kirkenessnowhotel; Sandnesdalen 14)

Summer Activities

The following activities are popular from late June to mid-August, sometimes into September:

King-crab safari (adult/child 1650/825kr)

Quad-bike safari (per person from 1490kr)

Half-day tours of the Pasvik River Valley (adult/child 1000/500kr)

Visiting the Russian border and iron-ore mines (adult/child 700/350kr)

Boat trips along the Pasvik River (adult/child 990/500kr)

Winter Activities

Activities to try between December and mid-April:

Snowmobile safaris (per person from 1890kr)

Ice fishing (from 1800kr)

Snowshoe rental (half-/full day from 250/400kr)

Dog-sledding (adult/child from 2100/1050kr)

King-crab safari (adult/child 1500/750kr)

WORTH A TRIP

GRENSE JAKOBSELV

Grense Jakobselv is the place to come for a haunting sense of history on the border between Europe and Russia. The first settlement here, 60km northeast of Kirkenes, probably appeared around 8000 years ago, when the sea level was 60m lower than it is today. Only a small stream separates Norway and Russia here, and along the road you can see the border obelisks on both sides.

The only real attraction – apart from the chance to gaze over the magic line – is the isolated 1869 stone church. It was constructed within sight of the sea to cement Norway's territorial claims after local people complained to the authorities that Russian fishing boats were illegally trespassing into Norwegian waters; it was thought that the intruders would respect a church and change their ways. Whether it worked or not isn't recorded.

During school holidays, you can make a day trip between Kirkenes and Grense Jakobselv (1½ hours) on Monday, Wednesday and Friday. The bus leaves at 9am and departs Grense Jakobselv at 11.30am, allowing an hour to explore. Some Kirkenes tour operators also arrange outings here.

4Sleeping

Kirkenes CampingCAMPGROUND$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %78 99 80 28; www.kirkenescamping.no; Ekveien 19, Hesseng; tent/caravan sites 200/250kr, 4-bed cabins with bathroom 1100-1900kr, with outdoor bathroom 500-700kr; hJun-Aug)

Beside the E6, 8km west of Kirkenes, this is the sole option for campers, although its future seemed uncertain at the time of our visit. Reception opens only between 9am and 7pm (no way to run a campsite in high season) so reserve in advance if you're after a cabin.

oSollia GjestegårdHOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %78 99 08 20; www.storskog.no; apt 1420kr, 2- to 4-bed cabins 1215-1825kr, s/d 665/815kr)

The Sollia, 13km southeast of Kirkenes, was originally constructed as a tuberculosis sanatorium and you can see why. The air could scarcely be more pure or the atmosphere more relaxed at this wonderful getaway. The whole family can sweat it out in the sauna and outdoor tub, while children will enjoy communing with the resident huskies. Rooms are simple.

Thon Hotel KirkenesHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %78 97 10 50; www.thonhotels.no/kirkenes; Johan Knudtzens gate 11; r from 1016kr; W)

This newish waterside hotel is Thon-boxy from the exterior. Within, though, it's open, vast and exciting, offering great views of the sound and a cluster of laid-up Russian trawlers. The restaurant is just as architecturally stimulating, and you could easily dangle a line from the open-air terrace.

Scandic Arctic HotelHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %78 99 11 59; www.scandichotels.no; Kongensgate 1-3; d from 1050kr; pis)

The Scandic Arctic, a pleasing modern block in the town centre, boasts Norway's most easterly swimming pool, heated and open year-round. The other special attribute, its Arctic Menu restaurant (summer buffet 395kr), is the best of the town's limited hotel dining options.

oKirkenes Snow HotelHOTEL$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %78 97 05 40; www.kirkenessnowhotel.com; Sandnesdalen 14; adult/child including half-board from 3100/1550kr; h20 Dec–mid-Apr)

Yes, the prices are steep but you'll remember the occasion for life. And bear in mind that 25 tonnes of ice and 15,000 cu metres of snow are shifted each winter to build this ephemeral structure. For dinner, guests cook reindeer sausages over an open fire, then enjoy a warming main course of baked salmon.

And what's the experience like? Well, it's high on novelty value and something we'd definitely recommend trying once, but once is enough.

If it's all just too cold for you, try their beautifully designed (and much warmer) Gamme cabins (double, half-board from 2700kr).

5Eating

Surf & TurfINTERNATIONAL, NORWEGIAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %464 45 245; Dr Wessels gate 2; mains from 189kr; h11am-10pm Mon-Sat)

One of the better in-town options in a place of few, Surf & Turf does a decent fish soup and serves up everything from steaks to pasta and even whale. The setting, too, is much nicer than others in town and the thoughtful presentation of dishes is rare in Kirkenes.

oGapahukenNORWEGIAN$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %78 99 08 20; www.storskog.no/en/restaurantgapahuken; Storskog; mains 290-395kr, buffet 450kr; h4-10pm Mon-Sat, 3-7pm Sun mid-Jun–Aug, on demand rest of year)

The restaurant of the Sollia Gjestegård hotel is clad in wood and glass, and from its broad picture windows there's a grand panorama of the lake at its feet and the Russian frontier post just beyond. Discriminating diners drive out from Kirkenes to enjoy gourmet Norwegian cuisine made with fresh local ingredients such as reindeer, king crab, salmon and halibut. Sunday is buffet only.

8Information

Kirkenes has no functioning tourist office. Your best bet for information and brochures are hotels or tour operators. A collection of local tour operators and hotels have set up the generally excellent website www.visitkirkenes.no.

8Getting There & Away

From Kirkenes Airport ( GOOGLE MAP ; %67 03 53 00; www.avinor.no), 13km southwest of town, there are direct flights to Oslo (SAS and Norwegian) and Tromsø (Widerøe).

Kirkenes is the terminus of the Hurtigruten coastal ferry, which heads southwards at 12.45pm daily. A bus (120kr) meets the boat and runs into town and on to the airport.

From the bus stop ( GOOGLE MAP ), buses run four times weekly to Karasjok (five hours), Hammerfest (10¼ hours), Alta (10½ hours) and many points in between.

Independent travellers armed with a Russian visa (which you'll need to get in your home country) can hop aboard one of the two daily buses to Murmansk ( GOOGLE MAP ) (one way/return 510/780kr, five hours).

A FORBIDDING FRONTIER

Don't even think about stepping across the Russian border for a photo. Nowadays, in addition to vestiges of old Cold War neuroses on both sides, Norway, as a Schengen Agreement country, is vigilant about preventing illegal immigrants from entering. Both Norwegian and Russian sentries have surveillance equipment and the fine for illegal crossing, even momentarily, starts at a whopping 5000kr. Using telephoto or zoom lenses or even a tripod also qualify as violations. As the guidance document sternly warns: 'It is prohibited to intentionally make contact with, or act in an insulting manner towards persons on the other side of the border and to throw items across the borderline. Any attempts at violations will be punished as if they had been carried out.' You have been warned!

8Getting Around

The airport is served by the Flybuss (85kr, 20 minutes), which connects the bus terminal and the Scandic Arctic Hotel with all arriving and departing flights.

Kirkenes Taxi ( GOOGLE MAP ; %78 99 13 97; www.kirkenestaxi.no; Presteveien 1) charges 350/425kr for a day/evening run between town and the airport.

There are car-rental agencies at the airport, or ask at your hotel.

Pasvik River Valley

Even when diabolical mosquito swarms make life hell for warm-blooded creatures, the remote lakes, wet tundra bogs and, to their south, Norway's largest stand of virgin taiga forest lend appeal to little Øvre Pasvik National Park, in the far reaches of the Pasvik River Valley.

Some 100km south of Kirkenes and 200 sq km in area, this last corner of Norway seems more like Finland, Siberia or even Alaska. Here, wolves, wolverines and brown bears still roam freely. The park is also home to some of the most northerly elk in Europe, Eurasian lynx and a host of relatively rare birds such as the Siberian jay, pine grosbeak, redpoll and smew. Sightings of all of these are rare, but you never know…

History

The Stone Age Komsa hunting culture left its mark here in the form of hunters' pitfall traps around lake Ødevann and elsewhere in the region; some date from as early as 4000 BC. Nearer to our own times, in the mid-19th century farmers from southern Norway established homesteads here with government support, opening up these near-virgin lands and helping to assert this ill-defined frontier territory as Norwegian.

1Sights

Sør-Varanger MuseumMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %78 99 48 80; www.varangermuseum.no/no/sor-varanger; adult/child 80kr/free; h9.30am-5pm late Jun-Aug, shorter hours rest of year)

It's worth a stop at the Strand branch of the Sør-Varanger Museum, which preserves Norway's oldest public boarding school and illustrates the region's ethnic mix. Visit, too, the timber-built Svanvik chapel dating from 1934, and a couple of 19th-century farms, Bjørklund and Nordre Namdalen.

Høyde 96VIEWPOINT

( GOOGLE MAP )

The Cold War lookout tower Høyde 96 offers a view eastward to the bleak Russian mining town of Nikel.

2Activities

Numerous Kirkenes operators run boat and snowmobile safaris down the Pasvik River Valley. Independent hiking is also possible.

BIRK HuskyDOG SLEDDING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %909 78 248; www.birkhusky.no)

From its base down in the Pasvik River Valley, BIRK Husky offers a range of dog-sledding excursions of varying duration in winter, as well as hiking, boat trips and birdwatching in summer.

Hiking

Douse yourself liberally in mosquito repellent before heading off into the wilds. The most accessible route is the poor road that turns southwest 1.5km south of Vaggatem and ends 9km later at a car park near the northeastern end of Lake Sortbrysttjørna. There, a marked track leads southwestward for 5km, passing several scenic lakes, marshes and bogs to end at the Ellenvannskoia hikers' hut, beside the large lake, Ellenvatn.

Also from the Ødevasskoia car park, it's about an 8km walk due south to Krokfjell (145m) and the Treriksrøysa, the monument marking the spot where Norway, Finland and Russia meet. Although you can approach it and take photos, you may not walk around the monument, which would amount to an illicit border crossing!

The topographic sheet to use is Statens Kartverk's Krokfjellet, which conveniently covers the entire park at 1:25,000.

4Sleeping

Øvre Pasvik Café & CampingCAMPGROUND$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %959 11 305; www.pasvikcamping.no; Vaggetem; tent/caravan sites from 100/200kr, cabins 600-700kr)

This place deep in the forest rents out canoes and bicycles, and provides information on local wilderness and attractions. Cabins are simple and the sites close to the water's edge.

8Information

The Øvre Pasvik National Park Centre ( GOOGLE MAP ; %46 41 36 00; h8am-8pm mid-Jun–mid-Sep, 9am-3pm Mon-Fri rest of yr) is set in lovely gardens near Svanvik, about 40km south of Kirkenes.

8Getting There & Away

Two weekday buses leave Kirkenes for Skogfoss (1½ hours) via Svanvik and one continues to Vaggatem (2¼ hours).

Inner Finnmark

Nestled against the Finnish border, Norway's 'big sky country' is a place of lush greenery in summer and deep ice-blues in winter. It's also the epicentre of the Sápmi, the 'land of the Sami'. Kautokeino, a one-street town if ever there was one, is the traditional heart of the region, although Karasjok is altogether livelier and has more Sami institutions.

Karasjok

Pop 2668

Kautokeino may have more Sami residents, but Karasjok (Kárásjohka in Sami) is Sami Norway's indisputable capital. It's home to the Sami Parliament and library, NRK Sami Radio, a wonderful Sami museum and a Sami theme park. This is also one of the best places in Norway to go dog-sledding in winter.

It's a lovely forested drive between Karasjok and Kautokeino, following, for the most spectacular stretch, the River Jiešjokka.

1Sights

Sápmi ParkAMUSEMENT PARK, MUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %78 46 88 00; www.visitsapmi.no; Leavnnjageaidnu 1, off Porsangerveien; adult/child/family 160/80/400kr; h9am-7pm mid-Jun–mid-Aug, 9am-4pm late Aug, 9am-4pm Mon-Fri, 11am-3pm Sat Sep–mid-Dec, 10am-2pm Mon-Fri Jan-May)

Sami culture is big business here, and this impressive theme park includes a wistful, hi-tech multimedia introduction to the Sami in the 'Magic Theatre', plus Sami winter and summer camps and other dwellings to explore on the grounds. There's also, of course, a gift shop and cafe – and Boble Glasshytte, Finnmark's only glass-blowing workshop and gallery. Reindeer are also often around.

Sami ParliamentNOTABLE BUILDING

(Sámediggi; GOOGLE MAP ; %78 47 40 00; www.samediggi.no; Kautokeinoveien 50; hhourly tours 8.30am-10.30 & 12.30- 2.30pm Mon-Fri late Jun–mid-Aug, 1pm Mon-Fri rest of year)F

The Sami Parliament was established in 1989 and meets four times annually. In 2000 it moved into a glorious new building, encased in mellow Siberian wood, with a birch, pine and oak interior. The main assembly hall is shaped like a Sami tent, and the Sami library, lit with tiny lights like stars, houses more than 35,000 volumes, plus other media. Tours last 30 minutes. There are similar Sami parliaments in Finland and Sweden.

Sami National MuseumMUSEUM

(Sámiid Vuorká Dávvirat, De Samiske Samlinger; GOOGLE MAP ; %78 46 99 50; www.rdm.no; Museumsgata 17; adult/concession/child 90/60kr/free; h9am-6pm mid-Jun–mid-Aug, shorter hours rest of year)

Exhibits at the Sami National Museum, also called the Sami Collection, include displays of colourful, traditional Sami clothing, tools and artefacts, and works by contemporary Sami artists. Outdoors, you can roam among a cluster of traditional Sami constructions and follow a short trail, signed in English, that leads past and explains ancient Sami reindeer trapping pits and hunting techniques. In summer a guided walk is included in the ticket price.

2Activities

oEngholm's HuskyADVENTURE SPORTS

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.engholm.no; 1hr dog-sledding 1000kr, 1-/4-/5-/8-day winter husky safari 2000/8700/11,600/19,900kr)

Engholm's Husky, in the lodge bearing the same name, offers winter dog-sled tours. These are sometimes run by Sven Engholm, one of dog-sledding's most celebrated names. They can also arrange summer walking tours with a dog to carry at least some of your gear. Consult the website for the full range of activities.

Ravdol Reindeer HerdingOUTDOORS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %995 48 376; www.ravdolreindeerherding.com; Ravdojok 24; day/evening trip 1300/1100kr; hmid-Jan–mid-Apr)

This Sami-run venture is an excellent way to get up close to Sami herding culture in winter – they take you out among the herds, teach you about Samis' existence with the reindeer and initiate you into other areas of Sami traditional life.

Sami PathBOATING, FISHING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %78 60 06 11; www.samipath.com; Niitosjogas 27)

This group of local Sami run a range of activities from boat trips on the river and canoeing to salmon fishing and reindeer-herding experiences.

TTours

TurglederOUTDOORS

(%911 67 303; www.turgleder.com)

Run by Sven Engholm's daughter Liv, this fine outfit offers a year-round range of activities, from cross-country-skiing excursions to 24-hour 'Scout-for-a-day' experiences.

4Sleeping

Karasjok CampingCAMPGROUND$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %970 72 225; www.karacamp.no; Avjovargeaidnu 88; per person/site 20/140kr, dm 210kr, cabins 410-1200kr; W)

Friendly Karasjok Camping occupies a hillside site with river views and a range of cabins. Campers can pitch their tents on its particularly lush, springy grass. Everyone can lie back on reindeer skins to the crackle of the nightly birch-wood fire in the cosy lavvo (Sami tent).

oEngholm Husky Design LodgeCABIN$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %915 86 625; www.engholm.no; s/d incl full board from 1500/2500kr, s/d hut only from 750/1100kr; pW)S

About 6km from Karasjok along the Rv92, Sven Engholm has built this wonderful haven in the forest with his own hands. Each rustic cabin is individually furnished with great flair, with every item (from reindeer-horn toilet brushes to creative lampshades) hand-carved by Sven. All have kitchen facilities; two have bathrooms. You sink into sleep to the odd bark and yelp from the sled dogs.

A plentiful dinner costs 300kr. Signed trails lead through the forest and barely a five-minute stroll away there's a salmon stream with a fine beach, where you can rent canoes. You can also join the team on their daily puppy walk or take a boat ride on a nearby lake as the adult huskies run, yap and swim alongside. There's also a sauna and a wood-heated outdoor hot tub.

Scandic Hotel KarasjokHOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %78 46 88 60; www.scandichotels.no; Porsangerveien; d 850-1600kr; piW)

Adjacent to Sápmi Park, this is Karasjok's premier hotel lodging, with handsome rooms and Sami motifs throughout, plus, outside in summertime, Gammen, an impressive Arctic Menu restaurant. They also have a range of budget rooms.

5Eating

Biepmu KafeàCAFE$$

(Biepmu Cafe; GOOGLE MAP ; %78 46 61 51; Finlandsveien; mains 140-240kr; h1-8pm)

This simple cafeteria in the centre of town serves up hearty local dishes and snacks, with daily specials (starting at 175kr) including a fish buffet on Wednesday. Other dishes include shredded reindeer meat. The heavy wooden benches resemble church pews and it's very much only locals in attendance.

oGammenNORWEGIAN$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %78 46 88 60; off Porsangerveien; mains 265-395kr; h11am-10pm mid-Jun–mid-Aug)

It's reindeer or reindeer plus a couple of fish options at this summer-only rustic complex of four large interconnected Sami huts, run by the Scandic Hotel. Although it may be busy with bus-tour groups, it's an atmospheric place to sample traditional Sami dishes, from reindeer stew to reindeer fillet, or simply to drop in for coffee or beer around the fire.

7Shopping

oKnivsmed StrømengARTS & CRAFTS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %78 46 71 05; www.samekniv.no; Markangeaidnu 10; h8.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat mid-Jun–mid-Aug, shorter hours rest of year)

This shop calls on five generations of local experience to create original handmade Sami knives for everything from outdoor to kitchen use. They're real works of art, but stay true to the Sami need for durability, made with birch-and-brass handles and varying steel quality. Prices start at around 1000kr for a Sami kid's knife up to 2000kr for the real deal.

8Information

The tourist office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %78 46 89 81; Leavnnjageaidnu 1, off Porsangerveien; h9am-7pm mid-Jun–mid-Aug) is in Sápmi Park, near the junction of the E6 and the Rv92. It will change money if you're stuck with euros after crossing the border from Finland.

8Getting There & Away

Twice-daily buses (except Saturday) connect Karasjok with Alta (525kr, 4¾ hours) and Hammerfest (450kr, 4¼ hours). There's a service to Kirkenes (580kr, five hours) four times weekly.

A daily Finnish Lapin Linjat bus runs to Rovaniemi (785kr, eight hours) via Ivalo (315kr, 3½ hours), in Finland.

Kautokeino

Pop 2931

Kautokeino, the traditional winter base of the reindeer Sami (as opposed to their coastal kin), remains more emphatically Sami than Karasjok, which has made concessions to Norwegian culture. Some 85% of the townspeople have Sami as their first language and you may see a few non-tourist-industry locals in traditional national dress.

The town is, frankly, dull in summer, since so many of its people are up and away with the reindeer in their warm-weather pastures (in winter, by contrast, around 100,000 reindeer live hereabouts). What makes a visit well worthwhile is Juhls' Sølvsmie (Juhls' Silver Gallery), just out of town and housing a magnificent example of the best of Scandinavian jewellery design. It's also a rather pretty place when seen from the surrounding hills.

History

From as early as 1553, during the gradual transition between nomadic and sedentary lifestyles, records reveal evidence of permanent settlement in the Kautokeino area. Christianity took hold early and the first church was built in 1641.

The first road to Kautokeino didn't arrive here until the 1960s.

1Sights

oJuhls' SølvsmieGALLERY

(Juhls' Silver Gallery; GOOGLE MAP ; %78 48 43 30; www.juhls.no; Galaniitoluodda; h9am-8pm mid-Jun–mid-Aug, 9am-6pm rest of year)

This wonderful building, all slopes and soft angles, was designed and built by owners Regine and Frank Juhls, who first began working with the Sami over half a century ago. Their acclaimed gallery creates traditional-style and modern silver jewellery and handicrafts. One wing of the gallery has a fine collection of Asian carpets and artefacts, reminders of their work supporting Afghan refugees during that blighted country's Soviet occupation. Staff happily show you around and most items are for sale.

Kautokeino MuseumMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %481 17 266; www.rdm.no/english/kautokeino_bygdetun; Boaronjárga 23; adult/child 50kr/free; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat, noon-6pm Sun mid-Jun–mid-Aug, shorter hours rest of year)

Outside, this little museum has a fully fledged traditional Sami settlement, complete with an early home, temporary dwellings, and outbuildings such as the kitchen, sauna, and huts for storing fish, potatoes and lichen (also called 'reindeer moss' – prime reindeer fodder). Nothing's signed, so pick up a sheet with a site plan and description on the reverse at reception. Inside is a fascinating, if cluttered, display of Sami handicrafts, farming and reindeer-herding implements, religious icons and winter transport gear.

WORTH A TRIP

REISA NATIONAL PARK

Although technically in Troms county, Reisa National Park (803 sq km) is equally accessible by road from Kautokeino. For hikers, the 50km route through this remote Finnmarksvidda country is one of Norway's wildest and most physically demanding challenges. The northern trailhead at Sarelv is accessible on the Rv865, 47km south of Storslett, and the southern end is reached on the gravel route to Reisevannhytta, 4km west of Bieddjuvaggi on the Rv896, heading northwest from Kautokeino.

zFestivals & Events

oSami EasterRELIGIOUS

Easter week is a time for weddings and an excuse for a big gathering marking the end of the dark season, before folk and flocks disperse to the summer grazing. It's celebrated with panache, with the reindeer-racing world championships, the Sami Grand Prix – not a souped-up snowmobile race but the premier yoik (rhythmic poetry) and Sami pop contest – and other traditional Sami and religious events.

4Sleeping & Eating

Arctic Motell & CampingCAMPGROUND$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %78 48 54 00; www.arcticmotel.com; Suomaluodda 16; car/caravan sites 220/280kr, cabins 400-1400kr, motel r from 650kr; hJun-Aug)

At the southern end of town, this is a hyperfriendly place where campers and cabin dwellers have access to a communal kitchen. Its lavvo (Sami tent) is a warm and cosy spot to relax by a wood fire and sip steaming coffee, laid on nightly at 8pm. If you ask, the small cafe will also rustle up bidos, a traditional reindeer-meat stew.

oThon Hotel KautokeinoHOTEL$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %78 48 70 00; www.thonhotels.no; Biedjovaggeluodda 2; s/d from 1250/1450kr; piW)

This lovely contemporary hotel inhabits a shell of mellow wood, built low to blend in with its surroundings. Rooms are cheerful and cosy. Make sure you get a 2nd-floor room with views over the town; those on the backside overlook the scruffy car park. Duoattar, its gourmet restaurant, serves fine cuisine, and breakfast is one of the best in Norway's far north.

The hotel organises a number of winter excursions (including snowmobile safaris and trips to local Sami camps) and fishing in summer.

DuoattarNORWEGIAN$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %78 48 70 00; Biedjovaggeluodda 2, Thon Hotel Kautokeino; dinner mains 195-395kr; h5-10pm Mon-Thu, 6-10pm Fri-Sun)

At Kautokeino's best restaurant, the main item on the menu, as you'd expect in such a town, is reindeer, served in several guises, with Sami tapas a small but imaginative starter. Some travellers have left disappointed, but we've always enjoyed eating here, quite apart from the fact that you're not exactly spoilt for choice in this town.

Kautokeino VillmarksenterCAFE$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %78 48 76 02; Hannoluohkka 2; mains 155-215kr; hnoon-10pm Mon-Sat)

Set above the main road in Kautokeino is this functional, scruffy sort of hostel whose main asset is its cafe-restaurant, with an attractive open-air deck.

7Shopping

Avzi DesignARTS & CRAFTS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %958 08 839; www.avzidesign.com; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat)

Around 8km east of Kautokeino in the tiny hamlet of Avzi (ask at the tourist office for directions), this friendly little showroom sells Sami mittens, shawls and other textiles.

Kautokeino SølvsmieJEWELLERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %78 48 63 11; www.kautokeinosolvsmie.no; Boaronjárga 15; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat)

Next to the Kautokeino Museum, this place offers finely crafted silver jewellery and other pieces inspired by Sami culture and the local environment.

SameknivARTS & CRAFTS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %901 93 819; Boaronjárga; h9am-8pm Jun-Aug, 9am-4pm rest of the year)

Samekniv, on the road to the Kautokeino Museum, is a little workshop with a small range of traditional and modern knives. Don't believe the official opening hours – you may need to ring for someone to come and open up.

8Information

The tourist office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %481 17 266; Boaronjárga 23; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat, noon-6pm Sun mid-Jun–mid-Aug) has occupied five different venues on our last five visits. At the time of research it was in the Kautokeino Museum.

8Getting There & Away

Public transport to Kautokeino is slim. Buses run between Kautokeino and Alta (298kr, 2¼ hours) daily except Saturday. From July to mid-August, the Finnish Lapin Linjat bus connects Kautokeino with Alta (1¾ hours) and Rovaniemi (eight hours), in Finland once daily.

Hammerfest

History

WHAT'S WITH THE POLAR BEARS?

Nordkapp & Magerøya

TRUE NORTH?

Nordkapp

History

NORDKAPP ENTRY

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

HIKING TO KNIVSKJELODDEN

Honningsvåg

GUARANTEEING A BUS SEAT

Kamøyvær

Gjesvær

Lakselv

Stabbursnes

Eastern Finnmark

WORTH A TRIP

NESSEBY CHURCH

Tana Bru

WORTH A TRIP

SAMI MUSEUMS

WORTH A TRIP

KONGSFJORD GUESTHOUSE

Vadsø

POLAR BEAR NEAR VADSØ?

WORTH A TRIP

AN ARCTIC NATIONAL PARK

Vardø

WITCHCRAFT IN VARDØ

WORTH A TRIP

HAMNINGBERG

Kirkenes

RUSSIAN MARKET

WORTH A TRIP

GRENSE JAKOBSELV

A FORBIDDING FRONTIER

Pasvik River Valley

History

Inner Finnmark

Karasjok

Kautokeino

History

WORTH A TRIP

REISA NATIONAL PARK